Lagers Enjoy a Renaissance

Mar 18, 2015 · 140 comments
[email protected] (Boston, MA)
I love a good craft beer, but honestly so many of them are too hoppy and heavy. Those beers are great for the colder months, but you're right that a lighter beer is so good for the summer. Especially if you want to drink a few.
Daniel (Norway)
After spending the last 3 years in Norway at a NATO job, I had really grown tired of trying to educate Europeans - in particular the Germans (who are the biggest beer snobs in Europe) - about the great variety and quality of beers in the US. They all seem to think the only beer we drink is Bud Light or Miller Lite. I would just roll my eyes and try to educate them....

While there, I experienced many fantastic beers traveling around - Belgium, Germany - yes, you are great beer countries. But when it comes to a backyard BBQ, a day at the beach or a baseball game, nothing is better than a cold American lager!
Cheryl DJL (New York, NY)
"I don't suppose most craft beer fans are too excited by lager styles."

Why in the world would you think that? That's as silly as saying "I don't suppose most wine lovers are too excited about chardonnay."
Chris In Ohio (Ohiuh)
Because it is absolutely true. If it isn't barrel-aged, over the top hopped, or a white whale, it barely registers.

Is it wrong? Yes. But go to any review site and see the evidence.

I love lagers and a good kolsch, for the record.
levinth (MTV)
I support the earlier comment asking for a review of American craft Pilsners. I am very fond of Deschuttes Pilsner..even though they only make it from time to time
Larry (The Fifth Circle)
I'd recommend some 'local' options:

High Point Brewing:

Amber Lager
Golden Lager (a low-alcohol, quality replacement for industrial yellow beer)
Octoberfest Lager (seasonal obviously)
Maibock Lager (seasonal starting in March)

All of these a pretty highly rated on major beer sites. That's why I'd like to know what they try and what makes the list.
Larry (The Fifth Circle)
Again, it would be very informative to know the others tried, not just rated at the top. These seem to make up a fine selection; but I can think of lagers I like better.
EG (Flushing, Queens)
Such as...? I would add Sapporo Reserve and put it near the top.
CKent (Florida)
I'm happy to see Narragansett made the list. Don't know what Mr. Asimov means by "vague" flavor--insider food/wine/beer lingo eludes me--but I love a cold 'Gansett on a hot day. Or in the dead of winter: Makes no difference to me or anyone in New England!
EG (Flushing, Queens)
So you have me interested and very thirsty for your #1 lager. What is the use if it cannot be found? You cannot do this to your readers!!!
Bruce Berg (Boston, MA)
Excellent article- however, you neglected to mention Jack's Abby in the Boston
area which is in the vanguard of craft lager brewing. Their lighter session beers are drinkable at ball games, and their other higher ABV beers have a strong following in the craft beer community.

Also worth mentioning: Rhode Island based Narraganset beer which brews some excellent lagers.
Canonchet (Brooklyn)
Narragansett was indeed mentioned, #10 of the Top 10, as it should be, the recently revived product of legendary RI brewmaster Billy Anderson
Entropic (Hopkinton, MA)
Generally agree about JA, although I just had a Framingham Lager from them that tasted no better than Budweiser to me - American Budweiser.
Winthrop (I'm over here)
"...while excluding beers labeled pilsner."
I wonder why.
OSS Architect (San Francisco)
A pilsner uses principally Saaz hops, and Saaz generally has a very low Alpha Acid level and is not very effective as a bittering hop. It would have been out of place in this line up.

A German pilsner might have Hallertauer which is used in lagers as well, and Spalt Select; which has low alpha, is used in German lagers. Depending on your blend of Saaz, Hallertaur and Tettnanger, you can send your "finish" all over the map.

I would suggest to Mr Asimov, that he do a future exercise on the Saaz, Hallertaur and Tettnanger triad, as I have been brewing my own beer for decades, in all styles, and this is my favorite brewing catagory.

Influenced, perhaps, by living several years in Regensburg, Germany which is on the Czech border. I love lagers and pilsners, but each is it's own thing.
Doug Newberry (Cincinnati, OH)
Beer and Baseball never had a better duo for fans than the Cincinnati Reds and Wiedemann Beer. Unfortunately, fans don't get much say in the ballpark operations these days. Today, this local beer is frowned upon by the concessions GM at Great Americian Ball Park. It's banned -- just like Pete Rose. https://www.google.com/search?q=wiedemann+crosley&biw=1280&bih=8...
michjas (Phoenix)
It's a big mistake to latch onto a single beer. But then again when you find one you like sticking with it is natural. In my many years of beer drinking I've resolved this dilemma by going with a favorite until I get bored and then shopping for my next favorite. Of late, I've gone from pale ales to Scottish ales, to IPAs. I guess it's time to try lagers again. Wine is way too specialized for me. Beer, like life, is a journey.
Kit Coyle (Mill Valley)
My favorite lager style is Negra Modelo and is my first choice by far but
Rolling Rock is also a good choice.
Anna Harding (Elliot Lake, ON)
I should put this out there for those who are curious and would like to know about joining the elite fraternity (and sorority) of home brewers. The book you want to start with is Papazian, Charles "The Complete Joy of Home Brewing", any of various editions, available from your on-line bookseller and other places.

There are brew shops that will set you up with a basic equipment list for under a hundred dollars.

Disclaimer: I am not related to Charles Papazian and have no financial interest whatsoever in his endeavours.
Matthew (PurchaseNY)
Read John Palmer's How to Brew. it's available on line for free. And it's just as respected and authoritative as Papazian.
Rob B (Boston, MA)
Only one American beer makes me positively giddy: Heady Topper. Here in New England, people charter Sesnas for the stuff. Not a lager, but always worth a mention.
sweet water (Sierras)
Nothing better than an A's game in the bleachers. A Sierra Nevada, bringing in BBQ from my earlier tailgate(thanx A's) and just relaxing. Eric, make a trip to Sierra Nevada's new brewery in NCarolina.
D'town Boy (Htx)
The Canadians have brewed some decent Lagars. I agree there is a time for Lagars or Ales. Never IPA's thee worse tatse ever. I truely desire authentic Belgian style Ales. I've had the real deal touring Belgium, Netherlands & Germany and there is nothing like the fresh brewed Ales of that region.
Hustle (Seattle, WA)
Surprised that Devils Backbone Vienna Lager didn't make the cut. What a wonderful beer, and I miss it so.
cwnidog (The Other Washington)
I'll add that Session Black Lager is also well worth the effort to uncap a bottle. It's similar to its lighter sibling, but just a touch more assertive malt.
Alexia (RI)
Using Yuengling, I just made Julia Child's 'Beef Braised with Beer and Onions'. Glad to hear Narragansett made the cut though, I should have used that.
Steve W (Brooklyn, NY)
Recently discovered Tarnation California-Style Lager from Baxter Brewing in Maine. It seems to be only available in New England, but well worth trying if you can find out. The review's description of Full Sail matches this beer pretty closely. http://www.baxterbrewing.com/beers/tarnation/
Mike H (Albany, NY)
Wait, Brooklyn Lager is made in Utica? Strange, or perhaos a correction is in order?
Matthew (PurchaseNY)
Much of Brooklyn Brewery's beer is brewed under contract by F.X. Matt in Utica.
jay65 (new york, new york)
Nice. Love anything by Anchor Steam, which was saved thanks to Maytag washing machines. No, the machines cannot brew beer, but the fortune allowed a man to splurge in SF on the old brand and set up a modern brewery (and distillery) on Portrero Hill, which is open to tours.

In fact there are a couple of places in Yankee Stadium where one can get craft brewed product. One is in right field next to where expensive but terrific steak sandwiches are made to order. It is the vendors who sell only the mass market brews.
Matthew (PurchaseNY)
Fritz Maytag is probably the one person most responsible for the revival of craft brewing in the USA. Ask any beer historian.
OSS Architect (San Francisco)
Maytag gave Sierra Nevada his yeast. SN for years shipped beer that was unfiltered and unpasteurized. So every bottle they shipped had live, world class, beer yeast culture in a tiny "white wisp" on the bottom of each bottle.

Thousands of homebrewers in California used that yeast to craft their own beer. Beer yeast is easily contaminated with bacteria, which causes "off flavors". The most common is "banana ester".

When you took your beer to a homebrew contest, you could always identify who knew "the secret".
arp (east lansing, mi)
I don't care for beer very much. The best [obviously a matter of personal taste] I have ever had is in the British pub draft "best bitter" category, served cellar temperature. There is a mellowness and a personality that is lacking in even the best lagers. I can almost understand Americans preferring lager to "bitter", but it is mystifying to me how so many British people seem to prefer Bud Or Miller Lite to their wonderful ales.
Larry (The Fifth Circle)
I too favor British bitters (and Belgian beers too). I'm very tired of the IPA, the more hops the better is always the answer, school of craft brewing.
Bob Garcia (Miami)
I'm not a beer drinker and hoped this article would give me a sense of how lager differs from beer in general and from ale. I'm left with comments about color, self-expressive impulses, and terms like "lively and juicy". Duh? At there is always Wikipedia.
Matthew (PurchaseNY)
Lager beer is fermented by lager yeasts, at lower temperatures than ales. They are also "lagered" which means a post fermentation rest at nearly freezing for 3 or 4 weeks prior to kegging or bottling. Lager beers are supposed to taste smoother and cleaner than other styles. Anchor Steam, btw, is not a lager, but a hybrid using lager yeasts at higher fermentation temperatures. The style is known as California Common.
OSS Architect (San Francisco)
Beer, improbably, is a pretty complex beverage. You can quickly see how complex by searching on "zymurgy". The industrial takeover of brewing in the US by Coors, A-B, etc has resulted in several generations of Americans that don't know what beer tastes like. What they make is not beer, as Mr Asimov states.

If it helps, I would describe an ale as a tattooed biker, a lager as a 20-something driving a VW Passat, and a Pilsner as a middle-aged adult driving a 3-Series BMW.
B.H. Putnam (NJ)
@Matthew: Just a point of clarification: Lager beer _can_ also be made with ale yeast. It's a matter of using the right strain, how ou treat the fermentation process, and lagering of the finished brew.
The Ballantine brewery in Newark, NJ was most famous for it's ales (especially their world class India Pale Ale and their 20 year solera aged Burton Ale), however they also made a well respected and best selling lager beer, and that lager beer _was_ actually fermented using an ale yeast (although it was a different strain of ale yeast than they used in their 'ale' products).
James (Vermont)
If you're interested in excellent lager take a look at the work Jack's Abby is doing in Framingham, MA. Fresh Hoponius Union is pretty hard to beat.
Bobby (Seattle)
As a student in the early 80s in Einbeck, Germany where Bock beer originated, I have to stick with Pilsner beers. I even worked for a time at the post office at the local rail hub in nearby Kreiensen where I unloaded packages from trains and every Tuesday graveyard shift we Arbeiters were given four cases of worker's beer: Einbecker Pils to drink on our shift breaks. Ahhhh, liquid bread to fortify nocturnal package sorting; it doesn't get any better than this!
Ashley Handlin (new york)
I know you left pilsners off the list (for whatever reason), but do try the Coney Island Mermaid Pilsner - its phenomenal. Very herbal and aromatic tasting, with a slight bitter bite (but nowhere near the bitterness of an IPA). And local too!
bmwloco (Asheville NC)
Dales Pale Ale from Oskar Blues is my go to. For hot summer days, Mamma's Little Yellow Pils is great. And hey, they opened their east coast brewery in Brevard NC... my old and once "dry" home town.
brenos (ireland)
in Montana recently and really enjoyed Salmon Fly Honey Rye...need to go back and get some more :-)
Anonie (Scaliaville)
The Yankees have a shortstop and his name is Didi. You could look it up.

Also, over the years many fine beers including Bass Ale, Goose island and Leinenkugel have been on sale at Yankee Stadium. There recently was also a nostalgia beer stand at which you could get motor oil-sized cans of Ballantine, Schaefer and Rehingold.
Jay Amberg (Neptune, N.J,.)
Because of my German-Irish heritage I grew up in household where beer or stout were the accepted adult beverages on the dinning table. The craft beers I drink on a regular basis come from Sierra Nevada and Long Trail. I've been drinking beer for more than 45-years, I had my first Chimay Cing Cents when a 750ml sold for $2.50. I enjoyed Anchor Steam in SF when a six pack was less than $4. I love the fact a serious beer culture has evolved in the USA, however, I also frown upon an apparent beer snobbery that has grown along with the current demand for the so-called craft beers. I understand this article is about those beers but before you snub your nose at the industrial lagers--remember--for us old timers who still go out on a hot and humid August afternoon, get the push mower and trimmer out of the garage and spend the next 90-minutes wiping the sweat from their brow the reward is the hiss from the pop top of super nice cold Bud, Miller, Rolling Rock, Yuengling, PBR or Coors. My generation calls them "lawn mower beers" for good reason. I'll love my favorite IPA's and Stouts but I'll save them for later. Oh, and by the way the Yankees do have a shortstop, his name is Gregorrius, he's young and has a good glove and strong arm.
R Thomas Berner (Bellefonte)
Lord Chesterfield Ale by Yuengling of Pottsville, Pa.
rajko (Knoxville, Tn)
Would agree on the company Yuengling. Their lager is terrific, but sadly not listed...
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
My only regret is that American beers in general have a very low alcohol content and therefore no real bite. The much stronger Belgian Charles V and Dutch Amstel Goud are not usually available.
Kyle (NY, NY)
Not a word for Guiness American Lager?
EJ (New York, NY)
The Yankees? Eric, you grew up on Long Island, you're supposed to be a Mets fan!
I'm a craft beer enthusiast, and I'm glad we're seeing brewers begin to turn away from hop loaded IPAs, and begin to explore different beer styles. I enjoy a good IPA (like Stone), but this has become the prevalent style among American craft brewers, and I've grown bored of the style - too many IPAs lack subtlety. I'm not a brewer myself, but I assume IPAs must be an easier style to work with - when a beer is overwhelmed with hops, its easy to hide mistakes and a lack of depth. I look forward to trying the lagers on this list that I haven't had before, and returning to those I have.
MisterDangerPants (Boston, Massachusetts)
Nice article. Eric, if you're ever in the Boston area try anything from Jack's Abby Brewing (brewed in Framingham). They only brew lagers. Once a year they have a selection called Mom & Pop's. Super tasty.
LairBob (Ann Arbor, MI)
I know several other people have mentioned this, as well, but I do think it would be helpful to explain that there are two fundamental styles of beer: ales, and lagers.

Even without going into the details, it's important for readers to understand that the process of brewing ales tends to generate a lot of complex flavors and aromas above and beyond the basic malt and hops. The process used to make lagers tends to minimize any additional flavors, so the final product is "simpler". If it's also _good_, then it tends to taste crisp and clean -- but it's not as likely to offer a lot of unique flavors, or stand up to massive additions of hops and other ingredients like coffee or peanut butter.
HCM (New Hope, PA)
Despite their crazy special beers coming our recently, Leinenkugel make a very, very good basic American lager. I would have put it in the running.
tds (nashville)
Thanks for this. Hopefully the hop-heads won't take over the world now. Six or seven of those hideously over-hopped ales that seem to be everywhere now and I'm looking for a glass of water. Water!
Kevin Clarke (Oregon)
If you down six or more IPA's, you may have a drinking problem.
Henry Hughes (Marblemount, Washington)
Sorry, too late. We have indeed taken over the world. It must be terrifying for you.
Dave (San Rafael, CA)
Amen! There's more to brewing than dumping in as much hops as you can get your hands on.
Ralph (Chicago)
Metropolitan Brewing is having great success specializing in lagers, but I'm not sure, they may not (yet?) be available outside Chicago. Check out their Dynamo Copper Lager (among others) if you're in town!
RudyFaust (Chicago, IL)
Amen, brother Ralph. Even with all of the great craft ales in town, I keep finding myself returning to Metro's line-up. Their Heliostat (zwickel Flywheel) and Magnetron (schwarzbier) are my faves.
schnorrer (San Francisco)
For me, it has been American ales and real German lagers for many years. Glad to see American lagers are finally getting into the game.
zemooo (USA)
Most brewbubs lagers suffer from a stainless steel tang that the short brewing and aging process impart. All the lagers mentioned here do not do that. Craft brewing is coming of age, and a nice age it is.

I don't mind Pabst, or Budweiser or any of the mass market corn and rice beers, but not at 10 dollars a glass. I will pay a little more for the craft beers, they are worth it. As long as they don't clash with by hot dog and nachos.
Keith Milligan (NJ)
My opinion is Stoudt's Gold by a mile.
Lauren Oster (Lower East Side)
So true! Very few bars in NYC carry Stoudt's Gold -- it alone is worth a trip to Philly.
The Observer (NYC)
Where's the PBR? Snobbery in beer is ranpant. Bring back the oldies but goodies, there must be something good about them!
Kevin Clarke (Oregon)
Barley seltzer. Goes well with fedoras.
CSD (Palo Alto CA)
No, there isn't.
Henry Hughes (Marblemount, Washington)
Beer drinkers with standards who want to make distinctions must be snobs. Same as in any other arena, eh? Don't dare assert that carefully crafted beer is better than cheap swill, and don't mention that some ways of life are more ethical than others.
Steve C (Bowie, MD)
The price of ballpark beer is enough to discourage many. It's a shame, but heck, I can hardly afford to buy a ticket.
Bartolo (Central Virginia)
Your first beer in the tasting report is listed as 11 ounces. Please reassure us that we are not about to see a downsizing of beer bottles.
Kevin Clarke (Oregon)
Full Sail Brewing sells its 'Session' lager in old style 11 ounce 'stubby' bottles, which are nostalgic in the Pacific Northwest (A defunct brewery used to sell a fizzy yellow lager in the same bottles here years ago...). It's proven to be a good marketing strategy. (Plus the beer in them tastes pretty good.)
Rich (Northern Arizona)
The Coors family got richer putting their water in 11 oz. bottles. Sprouts market usually sells 12 pks of this beer for $9.99. Yesterday (3/13/15) they priced it at $13.99!! Someone is Northern AZ is reading the NYT!
John (Houston)
Most of Full Sail you get will be 12 oz bottles. The Session comes in a unique, squat, 11 oz. bottle.
Thomas Randall (Port Jefferson, N. Y.)
Blue Point Toasted Lager hits the spot for me. One lovely, flavorful beer.
GPD (Yardley,Pa)
Been in the wine businees for 30 years. Like beer people better...they know great beer without over-the-hill terms. Also Thomas is correct Toasted Lager is a great beer after cutting the lawn, and most beers now days are ' over the top on the hops', like over oaked wine. Boy I am sweating!!!
NPC (Ft. Montgomery)
Nice to see Rochester and Utica brewing good beer again. Upstate brewed good beers in the past. New York state is becoming known for Greek yogurt and now craft beer.
Greenguy (Albany)
Lagers: boring, and watery. Give me a good ale any day. The only time I've ever had a use for a lager is washing down very spicy food. Otherwise pass the IPAs, sour beers, porters, stouts, etc.
Kevin Clarke (Oregon)
Try a Spaten Optimator or Sam Adams Double Bock, and experience how "watery" those lagers are.
Darren (Kent)
My friends and I had a rule at the Essen Haus in Madison while in grad school: The night could only have 1 boot of Spaten Optimator. No, it's not too watery. Then we'd usually move on to boots of Spaten Lager or some other of the myriad of German beers available there. It's Lent - so even more reason to drink some "ator" beers.
Prost!
Larry (The Fifth Circle)
Paulaner Salvator.
Anna Harding (Elliot Lake, ON)
About twenty years ago, when I had time, I started making my own beer. The motivation was to get something decent to drink. Happily I can now buy decent beer, although I would like to be able to make my own again. I am a big fan of darks, and also marzens of various types.

One thing though that I have made - and sometimes failed at - is a good Pilsner. It is a very spartan beer and because of this there is absolutely no room for error, but a good low-alcohol Pilsner on a hot summer day...nothing like it. We're going into summer so I can't make it now, but if I have time in November I might set up a couple of batches.

Reminds me of a quote, I think from Houseman: "Malt does more than Milton can / To justify God's ways to man." Aye, that.
Kevin Clarke (Oregon)
Try using liquid brewer's yeast, and transferring your beer to three fermenters before bottling/kegging. If you don't have a dedicated fridge to keep your slowly fermenting pilsner below 40 fahrenheit for two months, brew when the temps in your garage are above freezing but below 50, to allow your beer enough time to settle and clarify. Immature pilsners often smell sulfurous; forcing patience.

You can brew a very acceptable 'mock lager' with a strain of ale yeast known as 'California Common' or '2112' (similar strain as used in 'Anchor Steam Beer'.) Works well at fermentation temps up to 60 degrees, and in less than half the time it takes to wait for true 'bottom fermenting' yeast to finish.
Anna Harding (Elliot Lake, ON)
I can get a very acceptable California Common type beer by starting out with a good clean Pilsner bill, correcting the water (we have good water here but I do condition it) and pitching Saflager W-34/70. It's a dry lager yeast but at 50-60F (10-15C) the run time is about 30 days and it is actually a very drinkable summer lager. I use a Bohemian Pilsner all-grain recipe I got off Beersmith, don't remember is Papazian has a Pilsner recipe. Bottle condition for four weeks.

Now you've done it. I need to get out the goodies and make a batch. See what you did?
Jaque (Champaign, Illinois)
To be fair, you should have had a blind taste panel with the mass market beers - Bud, Miller, Big Wheel, Coors along.with Lagers. If you just had just one good IPA, all of the above beers would taste like water. After a long run or in hot ballpark all are good for quenching your thirst. But if you have time to relax and savor, lagers don't work.
KR (NY, NY)
I'm forced to disagree. I love a good IPA, but everything has its time and place (well... almost everything.) Just because something has a big, bold flavor doesn't mean it's the only thing to consume.... do you eschew foie gras for a plate of ghost peppers?
Ashley Handlin (new york)
I love craft beers, and hate IPAs. Not everyone enjoys such extreme hoppiness.
Roger (Columbus)
I'm glad to see lagers making a comeback. I understand many like IPAs, but I personally don't like such hoppy, bitter beer, and that seems to be all there is at many stores and restaurants. I think craft brewers would take even more market share from mainstream drinkers of Budweiser and Miller if they made more good tasting, easy to drink lagers. I want something that has taste but that tastes good, not something fruity and adventuresome.
Tom (Port Washington)
How can you write about lagers, and eliminate pilsners from consideration? That doesn't make sense. Pilsners are among the finest examples of the lager style, and basically all the mass market corporate brews are derivatives of this style. Which means baseball beer is pilsner beer.

There are several outstanding pilsner beers out there, craft and corporate. And they are lagers, brewed at low temperature with bottom fermenting yeast.
Thomas Randall (Port Jefferson, N. Y.)
I always liked pilsner Urquell. Can you recommend any others for us less in the know?
Sazerac (New Orleans)
Nicely done Eric.
Next up a pairing of beers with teams or upcoming games.

For example: When pulling for the Rangers, cut to the chase and go directly for a Steel Reserve 211 and sneak in a shot of Wild Turkey 101. Why? because you can get it year 'round and it's cheap. Failing that, go directly to the Wild Turkey 101. Why? just watch the team and you'll know why.

When pulling for the Reds, a gentleman's team, start with Dortmunder Gold from Great Lakes. Why? It goes well with Fenway Franks, Hot Boudin, two inch thick Porterhouse or Lobster.
marcellis22 (YumaAZ)
Samuel Smith's 'Taddy Porter'... not a lager, and not 'Bud-Lite!' Enjoy some real taste...
Vin (D'Man)
Finally, some discussion about traditional beer. The whole craft beer movement has gotten so crazy that it's almost impossible to find traditional style beer in some restaurants and bars. Everything is either *super* IPAs or some fruity concoction. I recently saw and Peanut Butter and Jelly beer.
burnsey (asheville)
Catawba Brewing, out of Morganton North Carolina, has a seasonal PB&J beer. I prefer session beers, and stay away from super duper triple hopped and dry hopped beers, but I must admit, that Peanut Butter and Jelly beer was rather tasty.
Longue Carabine (Spokane)
It's about time. There are two great brewing traditions-- the British and the German. Ale and lager. Ale is great. But not always. The problem? Every good bar has 15 ales and no (craft-brewed) lagers. Then they start making lighter ales to pass off as being like lagers.....

The main reason is easy-- it's harder to make lagers. I can say how many pubs I've been to that have no American craft-brewed lager, and many of them have no imported ones either, e.g. Harp, Heineken, and others.

I get tired of bitter beer. Lager would be real nice.
Kevin Clarke (Oregon)
Refrigeration and time help to keep local micro-lagers from proliferating in brewpubs.

It takes two to three times as long for a true bottom fermented beer to finish, and it needs to be kept just above freezing during the aging process, while it gives off the pleasant aroma of rotten eggs.
Frank (Oz)
$1.30-2 each - sounds nice - tho' Ryan disagrees

here in Sydney I can hardly buy a glass of beer from the local for less than AU$6 or US$4.60

which is why I brew my own - easy way - from a can of syrup - just started next batch half an hour ago - works out about 20c US a beer - and tastes good to me !
Steve (San Francisco)
Love Rolling Rock, but it's usually unavailable out west.
wahoooo (sandpoint, ID.)
I've seen it in every place that sells a modest amount of beer in Marin, at least. A light and easy to drink beer with the added advantage of being very cheap relative to others. Try any Grocery Outlet for a start.
heff (Illinois the most nuclear waste state)
I'm with you
Double Rider (White Plains, N Y)
American craft brewers are again at the forefront of brewing by starting to produce hoppy lagers. Traditionally lagers are lightly hopped, with brewers relying on a lighter malt bill, lager yeast and longer fermentation to produce a dry beer that does not need a lot of hop bittering to balance out a big malt bill. Now it is common to see IPL (India Pale Lagers) offered by many breweries. These beers offer the hop character of an IPA, but with the smooth and clean mouth feel of a lager, and with a bigger alcohol punch of a traditional American IPA.

For a great session product, which is what you want for a ball game, check out Peak's Fresh Cut Lager. Organic too!
jeff (New York)
Brooklyn Lager is from Utica? That's a joke, right?
M.F. (New York)
It's no joke. Brooklyn is more of a brand than a place now.
Thomas Randall (Port Jefferson, N. Y.)
I have a hunch that Brooklyn is made at the Utica Club Brewery which makes a lot of small premium beers and ales to spec. They have the facilities for brewing so it makes sense to use them and keep the overhead down.
Loren Parker (Lagrange, TX)
They use some of the old Utica Club brewery for extra capacity.
mobocracy (minneapolis)
There are so many good beers out there that it's difficult to keep up. Even a liquor store that prides itself on a deep selection only has so much shelf space. Plus a lot of local breweries don't have distribution outside of a specific region (often due to ridiculous laws) so you often don't know what you don't know. Add in the limited release variations and it's enough to make you dizzy.

For Minneapolis readers, Bauhaus Wagonparty and Surly Hell are great additions to this list. I also love Brooklyn Lager -- the tall boys are a great companion on the water in the summer.
Melo in Ohio (Columbus Ohio)
'Third Shift' amber lager is our house brew now -- decent beer, great value!
Phil Ronan (Lowell, MA)
Jack's Abby in MA is brewing some fantastic lagers.
Kent (CT)
Absolutely true! They've redefined what lagers can be (their Hoponius Union being a summertime favorite) and rejuvenated a style of beer I'd long since lost interest in.
Peter (Boulder, CO)
Glad to hear that craft breweries are focusing more on lagers and pilsners. I can't stand these craft ales that taste like ashtrays. "More hops" does not equal "better."
skippy (nyc)
Here's the lager for me: Krusovice Imperial Lager. Taste one of these bad boys after a Gansett. http://allaboutbeer.com/review/krusovice-imperial-lager/
emw (Wash, DC)
Did you not try out the Vienna Lager from Devils Backbone? Very tasty.
Tommy M (Florida)
Thank you for giving lagers their due (including Session, love those little retro bottles). It seems that US craft brewers have been in a rut for years, trying to out-hop one another with knock-yer-head-off ales, and brewing for a frat-boy demographic that thinks it's uncool to drink any beer under 9% alcohol. Even the venerable Rogue has gone berserk with some of their specialties (peanut butter and chocolate?) Or maybe we've been scared away from lagers and pilsners by the swill offered by the supergiants. A good lager is perfect for a summer afternoon--you can drink a bunch and still mow the lawn, or run bases (please drink responsibly).
Amy (Ann Arbor, MI)
Can't read this article without thinking about a micro brew in Ann Arbor, MI that is (in their own words) "the proud home of the lager revolution". I've tried a few of their beers and they've all been pretty good. Their IPL is probably the most well known/regarded, at least locally.
LairBob (Ann Arbor, MI)
They're called "Wolverine Lager", and they've been brewing a wide variety of lagered beers for a few years now. Great brewery.
Wendi (Chico)
Sierra Nevada Nooner Pilsner, good at any game.
burnsey (asheville)
Totally agree. It is now my "go to" beer.
jkjohnson (Phila PA)
Yankee Stadium has Goose Island, which is pretty good, even if it is owned by InBev. It is strange, though, to compare the small handful of beer types you can get at Yankee Stadium with the literally dozens of varieties available at Citizens Bank Park.
sergio (NYC)
That's because the Phillies stink and the team is trying to get you to forget about what's on the field (and charge you $9 a beer).
Pete (NYC)
Eric, nice article, thank you. I suppose I fall into the category of craft beer drinkers who are not too excited by lagers. So, this guide might spur me on to try a few of these. Couple of comments--while I realize that Anchor Steam Beer uses lager yeast in the brewing process, it is not a lager, rather it is most definitively a steam beer. An original American style from the west coast which nearly died if it weren't for Fritz Maytag. I've seen it mentioned in books from the early half of the 20th century, and even saw Henry Fonda, playing a brewer in an early '50s movie (can't recall the name), mention steam beer as one of the styles he brews.

Secondly, I agree about Yankee Stadium being beholden to the distributers. However, they have had at least since the opening of the new Stadium in 2009, Goose Island IPA, Guinness (better on a hot day than most assume as it's quite low in alcohol at 4.2%), McSorley's Ale, and Czechvar (many consider this the best pilsener in Europe). All indeed from the large distributers, yes, but all quite good as well. Plus Yankee Stadium, unlike any ball park I've recently visited, serves their beers in a 20 oz. "pint". Just as one would find across Ireland, Britain, Europe and the better pubs in New York. Good on them, and good for us. Cheers.
Larry (The Fifth Circle)
But they didn't rate the Anchor Steam, they rated the California Lager, which I think is different?
JP98 (Portland)
Not sure why you excluded pilsners. A couple of my favorite warm weather beers are Sam Adams Noble Pils and Narragansett Bohemian Pils (made without adjuncts, I think).
Rex Muscarum (West Coast)
I've brewed beer from scratch, so I'm kind of confused with the term lager as being used in this article. A lager style of beer uses slow, bottom fermenting lager yeast, usually at a low temperature, almost near freezing. These beers take awhile to ferment and are highly suitable for making in the winter in places, say like Germany. Ales, by contrast are made from top fermenting yeast (i.e., that sit at the top) and ferment in the 60-75 degree range. Ale yeast product esters which give different aromas and flavors to beers. These are more easily made during the summer, historically.
Are any of these renaissance "lagers" really slow fermented lager yeast beers? I thought such a process would be cost prohibitive from a manufacturing process. Making then at home generally requires a dedicated refrigerator and a couple of months. Whereas an ale can be done in about 10 days. I question this article, because no one in their right mind would throw a Pilsner out of a lager competition, neither an American, Czech, or German Pilsner. They are in my taste, the best lagers out there, historically.
Mike (Virginia)
Yes, I'm not an expert but excluding Pilsners didn't make sense to me either.
Matthew (PurchaseNY)
Despite the extra time involved, nearly all the mass produced beer on the planet is indeed lager fermented at near freezing and aged. Bud, Miller, Coors, Heineken, Corona, Stella, Becks, etc.
And yes, why exclude Pilsners? They are at the very heart of the style!
Larry (The Fifth Circle)
Pilsners are a subset of lagers in a sense; not to mention that this review covered AMERICAN lagers, yet another subset. There weren't any German, Czech, or other non-American lagers.
Rome S (Brooklyn Ny)
In the lager category, I am a huge fan of Thomas Hooker's Munich Style Lager, which is brewed in northern CT. For some reason, there seems to be a very limited distribution of Hooker products in the city and boroughs and I have never seen the Lager outside of CT. The Great Lakes Dortmunder is a favorite (again not widely available in my experience) and Session is pretty solid and is generally a buck or two cheaper per six pack than comparable product in my neck of the woods.
Bob (North Bend, WA)
Among lagers, pilsners are my favorite! Too bad they excluded the pilsners, which are light and refreshing but flavorful, and perfect for the ballpark -- but I guess no American pilsner can compare to European classics like Pilsner Urquell. Also too bad they excluded IPAs, which, though sometimes overwhelming, can be deliciously hoppy without getting bogged down in heavy bitterness -- Ranger IPA is a popular example. In Seattle, it doesn't get too hot, so we don't usually resort to drinking "so banal a product it can only be enjoyed icy cold, bottle to forehead in the brutal heat." Thank God.
Frank (Houston)
Eric! You almost totally omitted reference to the finest category of craft beers, namely, IPAs. In my youth and inexperience I have to admit drinking many a lager, but those beverages pale against IPA. Especially the West Coast variety, where they aren't shy with their hops, and don't make their beer taste like some kind of fruity gateway beer.
Then again, lagers may be well positioned to serve those of timid taste.
Econ (Portland)
IPAs are fine but as you well know they are inclined to be high gravity (6% - 9% ABV) and are not suitable for quaffing - i.e. unless you want to get pounded very fast :)

But as you also must know, in the west we have been "tyrannized" by IPAs in the sense that since about 10 years back 80% + of beers on offer here are IPAs.

This was not actually the case in the '90s when the craft beer movement was gaining momentum: the offerings were much more diverse during that period.

High quality Lagers, Pilsners, Pale Ales and Bitters at 5% ABV and under are welcome additions to the suds palette. The market is already showing some signs of becoming less hops monolithic, I am pleased to say.
Rich (Washington DC)
The whole point was to avoid the IPAs, which frankly have become something of a cliche in the craft beer world. Everyone makes several of them and the tendency toward heavy burnt caramel flavors makes them easy to pass up on a hot day at a ball park.
Kevin Clarke (Oregon)
Frank:
I live in the hoppiest corner of America, and I love India Pale Ales, but there are many other wonderful types of beer, and not all of them require copious amounts of hops to give them abundant flavor. And I wouldn't recommend a doppelbock for someone with supposedly "timid taste".

You might be interested to know that the easiest way for a brewer to conceal the shortcomings of a marginally brewed ale is to hop it excessively.
AWJ (San Diego, CA)
Baseball-Beer fans should make a pilgrimage to Petco Park, home of the San Diego Padres. Cool downtown park and yes - the weather is pretty much always nice. But the beer selection is spectacular: Ballast Point, Stone, Alesmith, Green Flash, Coronado, Mother Earth (and more) - - all local breweries with awesome beers. And Mission Brewery is a block from the ballpark. Most of our breweries succeeded making big, hoppy IPAs but virtually all of them have branched out to making solid, drinkable beers (like lagers) that are perfect for a ballgame. You can pair it with some decent fish tacos, but my $$ is on the Diego Dog - topped with cabbage, salsa and mustard. Play Ball!
Dreamtimer (GA)
Mother Earth is based in Kinston, North Carolina.
AWJ (San Diego, CA)
Mother Earth Brew Company = Vista, CA (north Co. SD). Home to Cali Cream, an all-time favorite.

Mother Earth Brewing = Kingston, NC

Both founded in 2008. Go figure.
Ryan Bingham (Out there)
Yeah, I like beer but not enough to pay the going rate of $14+ per craft beer six pack. It's gotten out of hand. Give me a six of "nasty neighbors", Narragansett talls.
Kly (New York, NY)
Happy to see 'gansett make the list.
Flyingoffthehandle (World Headquarters)
Now your tawkin! Wish we could get them out here. When I am in NYC that is my go to beer?
Martin (Hillsborough, NC)
No Yuengling? How can you talk about Lagers without a beer that can be ordered through good parts of the northeast by simply asking the bartender for a lager?
Dreamtimer (GA)
Yuengling is just fine, but it's a mass-produced adjunct lager, and thus explicitly not the subject of the piece.
Steve F (Seattle WA)
There's a bottle of Yuengling Lager in the photo at the top (only the final "g" is visible), so I guess it didn't make the cut.
reisman18 (mt sinai ny)
Is the lager trend anticipating that the public is fickle and needing jumpstart to keep business going. Has craft beer peaked. It's trendy now to order a $20 beer ,makes you a big spender . Even if they make a decent lager how many more craft breweries can the local community support in your area? 200 years of making lager, can they
make the product so much better in 6 months.