In 1982, I visited San Francisco with a couple who owned a gourmet kitchen shop to attend a convention for cooking and dining aficionados and retailers. A cocktail party at the Stanford Court, sponsored by Robot Coupe, an early competitor of Cuisinart, included an aging James Beard and the actor Danny Kaye. We dined at my friends' favorites---Le Club and The Blue Fox as well as luncheon at Jack's and Tadich's Grill. Blue Fox--alas, Ernie's was gone--was one of the famous restaurants on a current TV add allegedly serving Maxwell House coffee; when the Pheasant au Plumage was presented, it was an orgasmic experience! At convention's end we motored to the wine country, enjoying Sonoma Mission Inn's refurbishment and luncheon at Moet et Chandon, whose famous Tomato Soup en Croute was a culinary delight. All courses were in tandem with one of the winery's champagnes;they now have a full bar. We did the tram up to Stirling Vineyards and Beringer's quaint Victorian mansion for tastings. We even did luncheon at the French Laundry---before Thomas Keller's proprietorship. The husband of the couple was in charge of selecting the wine at each of our tables and at one, he was quick to choose a Heitz Cellars cabernet. And it was the most thrilling wine I had ever experienced. And it remains so to this day. The Martha's Vineyard now commands high prices; at John Walker in San Fran on Sutter Street, I was able, as a resident in the city to find wonderful Heitz. Truly noble, fine!
Let me throw a couple of thoughts out there as I literally just came back from three days of wine tasting in California. While Sonoma County lies on the other side of the mountain range, wineries like Laurel Glen are showing great promise, drinking well not only today, but have the aging potential to last five plus years. But if Napa is your preferred geography, then Honig and Round Pond make some cabs that are good values in that less than $50 range.
There are very nice Napa Cabs for well under $ 50 a bottle. Beringer Knights Valley is rich and distinctive- $ 30. Avalon Napa Cab is $ 18 and a very nice bottle. The point is $ a 50 bottle is nice, but if you look at ratings there are a lot of 88+ point Cabs at 20-30 a bottle.
So we cooked the lamb shanks with prunes and couscous, the recipe from your book with Florence Fabricant. They were delicious. We will certainly use that recipe that again.
Frog's Leap 2012 was the only one of the 3 wines we were able to find in our LCBO but many of the recommended winemakers were there. So we opted for Volker Eisele 2010, at almost exactly the same price point.
First, Volker Eisele "oh man is that ever nice". On the nose we got lots of fruit, dark berries, blueberry, coffee, caramel and jam or stewed plums. The texture was like silk, with a touch of pepper in the finish. The tannins were barely noticeable. It went beautifully on the mouth and combined very well with the meal. The prunes disintegrated in the sauce, which also has a pinch of cayenne in it. Maybe it was that spiciness which brought out the pepper in the wine. Anyway, whatever, it was great. (I couldn't bring myself to use the Volker Eisele for the cooking wine; used instead a favourite table wine a Rasteau.)
The Frog's Leap was much quieter more reticent at first, perhaps because it hadn't been decanted for as long. But it really grew on us as we finished what was left of the meal. Definitely not as jammy as the first, still dark berries, more austere, some spiciness, soft tannins, brown sugar but not sweet. Very reminiscent of the Haut Medoc we tried way back, perhaps a bit softer than that. By the end it was my personal favourite, and this tasting overall a stand out.
Frog's Leap 2012 was the only one of the 3 wines we were able to find in our LCBO but many of the recommended winemakers were there. So we opted for Volker Eisele 2010, at almost exactly the same price point.
First, Volker Eisele "oh man is that ever nice". On the nose we got lots of fruit, dark berries, blueberry, coffee, caramel and jam or stewed plums. The texture was like silk, with a touch of pepper in the finish. The tannins were barely noticeable. It went beautifully on the mouth and combined very well with the meal. The prunes disintegrated in the sauce, which also has a pinch of cayenne in it. Maybe it was that spiciness which brought out the pepper in the wine. Anyway, whatever, it was great. (I couldn't bring myself to use the Volker Eisele for the cooking wine; used instead a favourite table wine a Rasteau.)
The Frog's Leap was much quieter more reticent at first, perhaps because it hadn't been decanted for as long. But it really grew on us as we finished what was left of the meal. Definitely not as jammy as the first, still dark berries, more austere, some spiciness, soft tannins, brown sugar but not sweet. Very reminiscent of the Haut Medoc we tried way back, perhaps a bit softer than that. By the end it was my personal favourite, and this tasting overall a stand out.
A good way to taste expensive wines like these, of course, is with a monthly winetasting group. Everybody brings a single bottle, but you have 6 to 8 people. For $50 each, you get to experience $400 worth of wines--and find the 1 or 2 that you, personally, prefer and avoid wasting big $ in the future on ones that you don't like.
Over the decades, this is what we have found works best: Everybody brings their own glasses. The hosts rotate every month, chosing the topic and responsible for a starter wine, a dessert wine, cheese & apps, and dessert. (I have been in groups that do full dinners over the years, but these tend not too last long because of all the work.)
Wines are poured blind, bagged. Everybody writes notes over the course of 60 minutes or so and discusses the individual wines' qualities, but you can't say things like "I like this one" or "This one sucks," which could influence other people. Everybody rank-orders the wines (some groups score them too), and hands them in for tabulation. Wines are revealed last place to first.
Topics are like the Wine School: older Riojas, Sauvignon Blancs from around the world, 2010 Bordeaux, village-level Burgundies, Washington State cabs, etc. Choose fellow tasters you like, because it ends up being more about getting together than the wine.
Over the decades, this is what we have found works best: Everybody brings their own glasses. The hosts rotate every month, chosing the topic and responsible for a starter wine, a dessert wine, cheese & apps, and dessert. (I have been in groups that do full dinners over the years, but these tend not too last long because of all the work.)
Wines are poured blind, bagged. Everybody writes notes over the course of 60 minutes or so and discusses the individual wines' qualities, but you can't say things like "I like this one" or "This one sucks," which could influence other people. Everybody rank-orders the wines (some groups score them too), and hands them in for tabulation. Wines are revealed last place to first.
Topics are like the Wine School: older Riojas, Sauvignon Blancs from around the world, 2010 Bordeaux, village-level Burgundies, Washington State cabs, etc. Choose fellow tasters you like, because it ends up being more about getting together than the wine.
1
I still have some Heitz and Sinsky from my last Napa visit, but - especially for the money - I heartily recommend Vincent Arroyo, about the only dry-farmed source I've yet discovered. Wonderful stuff that pairs very well with my vegan diet.
Ooops. One last recommendation: an ibuprofen or aspirin before you start, not after, helps.
Couldn't resist just a couple more comments on winetasting groups:
The host, who got to choose the topic, may be allowed to throw in a "ringer" if they want. Like throwing in an Oregon pinot in a Burgundy tasting, or an Aussie cab or a merlot in a California cab tasting. If allowed, it keeps the tasters on their toes (and they can learn something new).
Nothing wrong with topics like: Chards-from-around-the-world; budget reds $15; or discovery topics like recent-vintage Chablis, gewürztraminers, or Barolos/Barbarescos. For some reason, sparkling wines don't seem to work in this comparative tasting format; save them as a staring wine as people show up.
Some people like to keep their notes in a spiral stenographers pad, for future reference. They'll know what to buy in the future. The rank-order slips can be just handed in.
Eat most of the appetizers before the pours. They can confuse your analyses. The better the wines, the more you want them by themselves, without food.
Whoever brought a particular wine gets first dibs on taking home any of its leftovers.
Be sure to have a dessert wine with dessert. These are wildly unappreciated wines and you need a group to drink most of the bottles. Make sure to take your time, offer coffee, and drive safely. Cheap breathalyzers are available.
The host, who got to choose the topic, may be allowed to throw in a "ringer" if they want. Like throwing in an Oregon pinot in a Burgundy tasting, or an Aussie cab or a merlot in a California cab tasting. If allowed, it keeps the tasters on their toes (and they can learn something new).
Nothing wrong with topics like: Chards-from-around-the-world; budget reds $15; or discovery topics like recent-vintage Chablis, gewürztraminers, or Barolos/Barbarescos. For some reason, sparkling wines don't seem to work in this comparative tasting format; save them as a staring wine as people show up.
Some people like to keep their notes in a spiral stenographers pad, for future reference. They'll know what to buy in the future. The rank-order slips can be just handed in.
Eat most of the appetizers before the pours. They can confuse your analyses. The better the wines, the more you want them by themselves, without food.
Whoever brought a particular wine gets first dibs on taking home any of its leftovers.
Be sure to have a dessert wine with dessert. These are wildly unappreciated wines and you need a group to drink most of the bottles. Make sure to take your time, offer coffee, and drive safely. Cheap breathalyzers are available.
A few other recommendations on regular winetasting groups from what we have found works best over the decades:
Once a month is best, first Fridays, or last Tuesdays, or something like that for long-range planning purposes. Close down over the summer as getting everybody together becomes difficult and the break is good. Eight regular members is good (or four couples) as >8 wines to compare is too much and <6 is too few. With 8, it is OK if someone has a conflict. Or have possible alternates.
When tasting, smell each of the wines before you taste any, going back and forth. And discuss. (Be sure to put each wine back in order in front of you. Some people bring sticky-notes to keep each glass labelled (e.g. A-H). Don't immediately rank the wines; let them unfold as some will change. In ranking, work your way in from your obvious favorites and least favorites.
No need to crown the person who brings in #1; there's pride enough. But the person who brings the last-place wine gets to take home the rotating last-place-wine trophy, to shame them into bring better stuff next time. (Here in Cleveland, it's often called the "Uncle Ernie" Award -- story there...)
Ranks alone are better than points. Sum everybody's ranks and the lowest rank-sum wins. (To see how closely your tastes matched the group average, you can calculate for yourselves the sum of the differences between your ranks and the group rank. In Cleveland we call this sum "Yeagers" -- another story...)
Once a month is best, first Fridays, or last Tuesdays, or something like that for long-range planning purposes. Close down over the summer as getting everybody together becomes difficult and the break is good. Eight regular members is good (or four couples) as >8 wines to compare is too much and <6 is too few. With 8, it is OK if someone has a conflict. Or have possible alternates.
When tasting, smell each of the wines before you taste any, going back and forth. And discuss. (Be sure to put each wine back in order in front of you. Some people bring sticky-notes to keep each glass labelled (e.g. A-H). Don't immediately rank the wines; let them unfold as some will change. In ranking, work your way in from your obvious favorites and least favorites.
No need to crown the person who brings in #1; there's pride enough. But the person who brings the last-place wine gets to take home the rotating last-place-wine trophy, to shame them into bring better stuff next time. (Here in Cleveland, it's often called the "Uncle Ernie" Award -- story there...)
Ranks alone are better than points. Sum everybody's ranks and the lowest rank-sum wins. (To see how closely your tastes matched the group average, you can calculate for yourselves the sum of the differences between your ranks and the group rank. In Cleveland we call this sum "Yeagers" -- another story...)
about 15% of our Napa wineries or no by appointment only. This includes frogs leap. I had to plan at least three weeks in advance to get friends into stags leap on a Saturday. Just send them an email requesting an appointment in a given date. It is a beautiful property excellent wine and lots of fun.
The most manipulated wine in the world and drowning in chemical, flavor and color additives. Not a real wine.
Not our wine: native yeast and bacteria, unacidified, unsweetened and unfiltered.
13
Some of the fruitier Napa Valley cabs I like are Shafer Hillside Select (the One Point Five is also quite good) and Caymus 40th Anniversary. You can't go wrong with Rutherford or Stagg's Leap appellation cabernet. Frogs Leap offers great bang for one's buck. Chateau Montelena helped put Napa Valley on the map, but their wines are overpriced for the modest quality.
For me, wine should always be paired with food. Drinking wine on its own is selling the wine short as you're only seeing a portion of what the wine is capable of.
For me, wine should always be paired with food. Drinking wine on its own is selling the wine short as you're only seeing a portion of what the wine is capable of.
2
Absolutely! I rarely drink wine without a great meal to pair. We opened a bottle of Caymus 40th Anniversary on my birthday (9/6/15) and it totally delivered! Not young at all as reviews may indicate. 2015 is not too soon! I am spoiled beyond recognition now.
Today we had a gathering of 30 Wine Enthusiasts and tasted Napa Cabernet with Food. Frog's Leap Rutherford, Chateau Montelena and Ramey Cabernet Sauvignon paired with Baby New Zealand Rack of Lamb and Beef Tenderloin Tips au Poivre in mushroom cream sauce over orzo. We finished with dark chocolate truffles infused with Cabernet Sauvignon. Frog's Leap was soft and elegant with just the right amount of black fruit, acid and tannins and paired well with the rack of lamb. Chateau Montelena had more acidity and tannin as our palates were coated with juicy black cherry. Perfect with the tenderloin. Ramey Cabernet and the cabernet infused dark chocolates were a hit! The wine was rich and full with vegetal and red fruit notes and medium tannins. The one characteristic we all recognized was that beautiful "herbaceousness" in all the wines. We could taste the green notes along with the fruit, acid and tannins. Classic not showy.
All these wine stood up well to the food. We found that this young 2012 vintage was a great match. Pleasant, easy and friendly.
Amongst friends. We look forward to our next Lesson. Thank you Eric!
All these wine stood up well to the food. We found that this young 2012 vintage was a great match. Pleasant, easy and friendly.
Amongst friends. We look forward to our next Lesson. Thank you Eric!
2
Phillip Togni Estate 2012: The wine store I ordered from accidently sent me this instead of the Tanbark Hill. We where enjoying it with double rib lamb chops on a bed of local salad containing arugula with extra virgin olive oil and a trace of balsamic vinegar. I got lots of dark fruit a bit of black pepper, dark sweet cherry, and a lot of vanilla. The color being pitch black. Before the food there was some acidity but with these nice juicy thick lamb chops it almost disappears. Very drinkable! Very different from bordeaux though. It’s almost like fellini faces versus photoshop beauty. Bordeaux has a certain signature resiny quality, a characteristic that this wine does not possess.
2
I knew after my wife's first sip on the 2010 Ramey that we had a good one, since she is the notorious super taster who rejects many of my choices. This is one terrific California cab, even if it's a bit restrained comparatively speaking, it was amazingly complex with cherry, plums, leather, chocolate and who knows what other flavor profiles. I'm going back to the wine shop today to buy their remaining Ramey cabs. This was our favorite wine of Wine School so far.
2
We tasted the following wines: 2012 Frog's Leap Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon; 2011 Tanbark Hill Cabernet Sauvignon; and for a less expensive comparison, 2012 1883 Cabernet Sauvignon Livermore Valley.
As appetizers we had Asiago cheese and hummus. The meal consisted of ratatouille and sirloin stuffed peppers.
The Frog's Leap had an attractive blueberry aroma. It had a rich, earthy taste with no noticeable fruit. It was very tannic with a long finish. This was our favorite wine of the evening.
The Tanbark Hill had a wonderful floral aroma. One of our number thought that it had a slight blueberry taste. This seemed more tannic than the others and had a long finish.
The 1883 cab was surprisingly good for a $15 bottle of wine. It had an oaky aroma and a plum or dark cherry taste. It was a little less tannic than the others.
The wines, especially the Frog's Leap, complemented the food well.
As appetizers we had Asiago cheese and hummus. The meal consisted of ratatouille and sirloin stuffed peppers.
The Frog's Leap had an attractive blueberry aroma. It had a rich, earthy taste with no noticeable fruit. It was very tannic with a long finish. This was our favorite wine of the evening.
The Tanbark Hill had a wonderful floral aroma. One of our number thought that it had a slight blueberry taste. This seemed more tannic than the others and had a long finish.
The 1883 cab was surprisingly good for a $15 bottle of wine. It had an oaky aroma and a plum or dark cherry taste. It was a little less tannic than the others.
The wines, especially the Frog's Leap, complemented the food well.
The Frog's Leap was my favorite among these three: with somewhat more fruit and less acid than the Ramey, it was in my "sweet spot" (so to speak). (The Tanbark Hill Horror lags far behind.) I did think the Ramey had a more prominent aroma.
I have a (one!) bottle of 2008 Frog's Leap which I had intended to compare with the 2012, but I decided to let it age a while longer. Decisions, decisions...
A 2011 standard Caymus had still more fruit than the Frog's Leap, I think, but was still nicely balanced with acidity.
I have a (one!) bottle of 2008 Frog's Leap which I had intended to compare with the 2012, but I decided to let it age a while longer. Decisions, decisions...
A 2011 standard Caymus had still more fruit than the Frog's Leap, I think, but was still nicely balanced with acidity.
After enjoying the 09 Tongi so much, I was inspired to also open up my last bottle of Chateau Montelena Napa Valley (not the estate) last night. Living in France, it is not easy or cheap to get California wine (nor really that necessary) but I do bring back bottles from time to time and my previous bottle of Montelena 05 was corked, which was pretty frustrating. This bottle was fine but I felt is was bit past prime, it started out strong but faded after about an hour and never really has the structure I expected from it, maybe I am used to the Estate version. The fruit was delicious but without the acids, it became flabby and seemed too ripe, I also don't know much about this vintage in Napa. I have one more to try this week, a Titus 2011.
California is often a place without rules. We have the liberty to mix Malbec into a Cab. Can that happen in Bordeaux anymore? Hats off to David Ramey, as usual.
My first taste of real Napa Cab was Montelena, in the 80s. Despite any mysticism cooked up by the “Bottle Shock” crowd, Montelena is quintessential Napa. I ditched my efforts to be analytical after my second glass. The candidates: an '04 Montelena Estate vs. the '12 Ramey. After staring intensely at the color in strong afternoon Nor Cal light, the only conclusion is the legs on the Ramey are thicker, more viscous and clear. The deep garnet is nearly a mirror image in each glass. Surprising given the Montelena has nearly a decade on the Ramey. Storage matters.
I detect more oak on the Ramey, but these are well matched and similar wines. Our meal is composed of local ingredients, bridging winter to spring. Marin pastured beef. Romanesco and yellow cauliflower roasted with late beets, tossed with early peas. I like a solid tannic red to wash down good meat. No complaints here. These two are superbly balanced. Paradoxically immense and delicate.
It kills me to drink the Ramey now. The fine, integrated tannin will keep this wine for years. And my ’04 Montelena is still ripe with miles to go.
The Montelena went faster, proof that a little age suits Napa well. I am, again, humbled by my fortune to enjoy such an embarrassment of riches on a pristine spring evening in Northern California. Everyone should be so lucky.
My first taste of real Napa Cab was Montelena, in the 80s. Despite any mysticism cooked up by the “Bottle Shock” crowd, Montelena is quintessential Napa. I ditched my efforts to be analytical after my second glass. The candidates: an '04 Montelena Estate vs. the '12 Ramey. After staring intensely at the color in strong afternoon Nor Cal light, the only conclusion is the legs on the Ramey are thicker, more viscous and clear. The deep garnet is nearly a mirror image in each glass. Surprising given the Montelena has nearly a decade on the Ramey. Storage matters.
I detect more oak on the Ramey, but these are well matched and similar wines. Our meal is composed of local ingredients, bridging winter to spring. Marin pastured beef. Romanesco and yellow cauliflower roasted with late beets, tossed with early peas. I like a solid tannic red to wash down good meat. No complaints here. These two are superbly balanced. Paradoxically immense and delicate.
It kills me to drink the Ramey now. The fine, integrated tannin will keep this wine for years. And my ’04 Montelena is still ripe with miles to go.
The Montelena went faster, proof that a little age suits Napa well. I am, again, humbled by my fortune to enjoy such an embarrassment of riches on a pristine spring evening in Northern California. Everyone should be so lucky.
1
We’ve come nearly full circle with the Napa Cab assignment after starting with Red Bordeaux almost a year ago. $50/bottle is a tall order. Not being wealthy enough to regularly drink $50 wines, I employ the dollar cost averaging strategy: for every $50 bottle I’m going to drink five $10 bottles over time, so the average cost is less than $17 each.
The irony for me is that while I live within spitting distance of Napa, I tend to drink European reds. I’ve often found for less than $20 I can get a bottle of French, Spanish or Italian wine which drinks as well (or better) than a $50 Napa Cab. I can consistently and unquestionably find wines in the $20 to $25 range (even from California) which drink as well as the average Napa Cab.
Sometimes I wonder why so much mystique hangs in the air over Napa like the morning summer fog rolling in from the Bay. Don’t get me wrong. I live here. I love Napa. And I love to spend my dollars supporting local farms. I remember when Napa was, well, sleepier. A farm community, maybe with a sense of purpose, but not quite the theme park ambience it occasionally exhibits now. And I do get the expense. Everything about the winemaking process in Napa is expensive.
Still. The wine is great. Certainly deserving of its place at Wine School. I’ve teed up the Ramey as well as an old stand-by for comparison. Report to follow.
The irony for me is that while I live within spitting distance of Napa, I tend to drink European reds. I’ve often found for less than $20 I can get a bottle of French, Spanish or Italian wine which drinks as well (or better) than a $50 Napa Cab. I can consistently and unquestionably find wines in the $20 to $25 range (even from California) which drink as well as the average Napa Cab.
Sometimes I wonder why so much mystique hangs in the air over Napa like the morning summer fog rolling in from the Bay. Don’t get me wrong. I live here. I love Napa. And I love to spend my dollars supporting local farms. I remember when Napa was, well, sleepier. A farm community, maybe with a sense of purpose, but not quite the theme park ambience it occasionally exhibits now. And I do get the expense. Everything about the winemaking process in Napa is expensive.
Still. The wine is great. Certainly deserving of its place at Wine School. I’ve teed up the Ramey as well as an old stand-by for comparison. Report to follow.
4
Taking a break from streaming March Madness to comment on a 2009 Philip Tongi Tanbark Hill with a straight up cote de boeuf from the grill (perfect pairing) I, like a few others, tend to shy away from Napa Cabs unless they are recommended to be more on the restrained and balanced side. When I lived in SF, my usual Napa Cabs were Corison (thanks Eric for the great article on her today) and others in that style so this month's wines seemed right up my alley. The Tanbark Hill upon opening was a bit sharp and disjointed so I decanted for about two hours and tried it again with dinner and it was wonderful. The initial heat had blown off and the integration was seamless between the rich dark fruits, the coating but silky tannins and a long full but velvety finish. Often I feel that Napa wines have lost their soul but this wine had it, I'll be getting more.
You've written "first year of wine school." I look forward to the second year.
4
I had on hand a bottle of 2010 Caymus Cabernet, so I opened it to participate in this month's wine school. I am not a big fan of new world Cabernet, so this was an interesting experiment for me. This bottle, with a couple of years of bottle age showed well. It has a deep red color, but not much of a nose to contemplate. However, it was very expressive on the palate with cherry vanilla fruit (lots of oak was present), root-beer, and mint with a medium to long finish. The fruit is sweet and jammy. The tannin is relatively silky already and it is easy to drink now.
3
From first sip, before a bite of food, the Ramey gave an enveloping sense of fullness, satiety. Whatever endorphins signal, “ah, satisfied,” they were swimming laps in my glass. More than any taste, the Ramey felt like abundance.
Compared to last week’s Frog’s Leap, the Ramey (with a 3 hour decant; at pour it was lean, alcohol-y, over-fruity and unfriendly) was subtler and more complex, with a sumptuous darkness that reminded initially of licorice (like the FL), and later, weirdly, of green pepper. It was more feminine. Its sweetness more muted.
But the two were more alike than different. While both were silky and lush, neither was at all the heavy, domineering Cab I expected. Yes, both handled rich meat effortlessly, but the FL was at its best with a light bean dish and the Ramey, while I can’t say it went well with our sautéed kale—way different wavelengths—neither did it trample the green veggie into grapey submission. Happier pairings, of course, were the potatoes & onions, and this household’s big meat go-to: thyme-y pomegranate-braised short rib.*
Which is where both lovely Cabs fell short. Each went fine with its respective meat. Drinking and eating was rich and filling. But no pairing brought out anything better, let alone startling or transformative, in either food or wine. Satisfaction I got. Just not much else.
* The dish is now a Wine School benchmark. Best pairing: the herb-friendly Graillot St.-Joseph. 2nd: the Produttori Nebbiolo. The Ramey trails.
--Dan Barron
Compared to last week’s Frog’s Leap, the Ramey (with a 3 hour decant; at pour it was lean, alcohol-y, over-fruity and unfriendly) was subtler and more complex, with a sumptuous darkness that reminded initially of licorice (like the FL), and later, weirdly, of green pepper. It was more feminine. Its sweetness more muted.
But the two were more alike than different. While both were silky and lush, neither was at all the heavy, domineering Cab I expected. Yes, both handled rich meat effortlessly, but the FL was at its best with a light bean dish and the Ramey, while I can’t say it went well with our sautéed kale—way different wavelengths—neither did it trample the green veggie into grapey submission. Happier pairings, of course, were the potatoes & onions, and this household’s big meat go-to: thyme-y pomegranate-braised short rib.*
Which is where both lovely Cabs fell short. Each went fine with its respective meat. Drinking and eating was rich and filling. But no pairing brought out anything better, let alone startling or transformative, in either food or wine. Satisfaction I got. Just not much else.
* The dish is now a Wine School benchmark. Best pairing: the herb-friendly Graillot St.-Joseph. 2nd: the Produttori Nebbiolo. The Ramey trails.
--Dan Barron
1
Eric, thanks so much for the wine school columns. I love them, have learned a lot, and hope you can continue it for some time.
I was able to get both the Frogs Leap and Philip Togni bottles.
I though both had nice strong fruit driven aromas, though the Togni had a mild added note I could not quite identify.
I thought the Frogs Leap was accessible and approachable now, displaying nice Napa cab attributes. I enjoyed this and will purchase more. The Togni was still a little rough and I think needs a couple more years of aging. Interesting since they are both 2012s, though I understand from different areas of the valley.
Would appreciate your and other reader thoughts in the follow up on rules of thumb for aging times for Napa cabs. I've always heard a minimum of 5 years for well made wines, but obviously this study might contradict that rule?
Thanks and regards for your wonderful columns and articles. Dave
I was able to get both the Frogs Leap and Philip Togni bottles.
I though both had nice strong fruit driven aromas, though the Togni had a mild added note I could not quite identify.
I thought the Frogs Leap was accessible and approachable now, displaying nice Napa cab attributes. I enjoyed this and will purchase more. The Togni was still a little rough and I think needs a couple more years of aging. Interesting since they are both 2012s, though I understand from different areas of the valley.
Would appreciate your and other reader thoughts in the follow up on rules of thumb for aging times for Napa cabs. I've always heard a minimum of 5 years for well made wines, but obviously this study might contradict that rule?
Thanks and regards for your wonderful columns and articles. Dave
1
We tried a second Napa Cab last night, again one of the alternates. Mayacamas 2006 Mt Veeder. Not young by this lessons standards but this was the vintage available. Raspberry, earthy, leathery on the nose. With decanting the fruit got quiet but still noticeable in accompaniment. The balance of this wine was beautiful. Tannins just the way I like them, creating a delightful mouth feel. We were in wine heaven. We didn't match the wine very well with food, however. Salads, cream of broccoli soup, grilled bacon and cheese sandwiches on rosemary bread and string beans. Not a gourmet offering. We both preferred the wine by itself. The wine was pricey at $70. No regrets. The Napanook we had several nights ago had more acids noticeable on the tongue, probably due to its young age. The Mayacamas was more savory than sweet but the balance was wonderful. Tempted to get more.
1
I always read your columns and like the idea of participating in your wine school. But living in Palo Alto, CA, it is sometimes hard to find the wines. But this time, you recommended 3 Calif cabs; so I was able to get all of them. Here are some comments:
Tanbark Hill: Aroma was very strongly of black current; not so nice to drink without food as it seemed a bit too acidic. But with food, steak to be exact, it was good. However, it tasted primarily of black current without much complexity. Not being much of a wine expert, we don’t know if it would be better if aged longer. Would it become more complex? Less acidic?
Frog’s Leap: Nice aroma of berries, maybe red, and spices; nice to drink shortly after opening without food and also good with food, (guess you would call it “accessible” even though it is young. But would it age well?
We will try the Ramey next to do the full wine school homework!
In general, it seems there is an inverse relationship: wines that are not so good alone are better with food, and vice versa. This makes wine tastings at wineries difficult, because when drinking many kinds of wines, it is easy to gravitate to the ones that taste good when standing at the tasting bar.
Tanbark Hill: Aroma was very strongly of black current; not so nice to drink without food as it seemed a bit too acidic. But with food, steak to be exact, it was good. However, it tasted primarily of black current without much complexity. Not being much of a wine expert, we don’t know if it would be better if aged longer. Would it become more complex? Less acidic?
Frog’s Leap: Nice aroma of berries, maybe red, and spices; nice to drink shortly after opening without food and also good with food, (guess you would call it “accessible” even though it is young. But would it age well?
We will try the Ramey next to do the full wine school homework!
In general, it seems there is an inverse relationship: wines that are not so good alone are better with food, and vice versa. This makes wine tastings at wineries difficult, because when drinking many kinds of wines, it is easy to gravitate to the ones that taste good when standing at the tasting bar.
3
One year ago my adult daughter, then a grad student at University of Washington and a follower of NYT on Twitter, convinced me that we should do Eric's wine school. We were together in time to drink and comment on one of the Haut-Medoc wines. But after that we either weren't together to drink the wines, or I wasn't able to procure them in time to submit a comment. But this month, with Napa practically in our backyard, I was determined that we would do this together. I bought all three wines here in the Bay Area, and my daughter was able to find the Frog's Leap in Seattle.
Last night we shared the Frog's Leap together even though we were 850 miles apart. My husband and I were together in Mountain View and our daughter was with her roommates in Seattle. We planned and ate the same meal - hamburgers with gouda, grilled onions, and bbq sauce. We texted observations and comments back and forth throughout our mutual eating and drinking experience.
We went through all the questions about aroma, accessibility, and food. Which I guess brings me to the point of this post - it is fun to try new wines and talk to people about them! Being in virtual community with our daughter and her roommates while drinking good wine with good food made for a wonderful evening! We all enjoyed the wine very much, and thought the pairing with the burgers was fantastic, but our specific observations did not matter as much as the fact that we were doing it together. Thanks very much!
Last night we shared the Frog's Leap together even though we were 850 miles apart. My husband and I were together in Mountain View and our daughter was with her roommates in Seattle. We planned and ate the same meal - hamburgers with gouda, grilled onions, and bbq sauce. We texted observations and comments back and forth throughout our mutual eating and drinking experience.
We went through all the questions about aroma, accessibility, and food. Which I guess brings me to the point of this post - it is fun to try new wines and talk to people about them! Being in virtual community with our daughter and her roommates while drinking good wine with good food made for a wonderful evening! We all enjoyed the wine very much, and thought the pairing with the burgers was fantastic, but our specific observations did not matter as much as the fact that we were doing it together. Thanks very much!
7
It was so wonderful to have a virtual wine school experience with my parents! Wine is something we love learning about and sharing as a family, and we are always looking for fun new ways to explore our love for wine. Even though we live 850 miles apart, sharing this meal together was such great fun and made me feel closer to them. (Love you Mom and Dad!) After all, isn't the best thing about wine sharing it with the people you love?
My roommates and I drank the same 2012 Frog's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon with the same meal - burgers with gouda, grilled onions, and BBQ sauce. I loved introducing my roommates to pairing and tasting, and we had a great conversation about the wine and how it changed during the meal. Before we had food, we were getting notes of black cherry and cassis with a smooth, velvety finish. The wine became more complex with the food and gained an earthier quality in contrast to the sweetness of the BBQ sauce. Mom and I were texting and agreed "Earthy with food!"
I couldn't help but think back and make comparisons to our tasting of the Haut-Medoc wines a year ago. I remember repeating the phrase, "This wine is so BIG." The Bordeaux was huge and almost overwhelming to my palette, and this Napa Cab was the opposite! While it had rich, complex flavors, it was also incredibly approachable and smooth.
This was such a great tasting and pairing experience, and it was made even better by sharing it with my family from afar! Great idea Mom!
My roommates and I drank the same 2012 Frog's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon with the same meal - burgers with gouda, grilled onions, and BBQ sauce. I loved introducing my roommates to pairing and tasting, and we had a great conversation about the wine and how it changed during the meal. Before we had food, we were getting notes of black cherry and cassis with a smooth, velvety finish. The wine became more complex with the food and gained an earthier quality in contrast to the sweetness of the BBQ sauce. Mom and I were texting and agreed "Earthy with food!"
I couldn't help but think back and make comparisons to our tasting of the Haut-Medoc wines a year ago. I remember repeating the phrase, "This wine is so BIG." The Bordeaux was huge and almost overwhelming to my palette, and this Napa Cab was the opposite! While it had rich, complex flavors, it was also incredibly approachable and smooth.
This was such a great tasting and pairing experience, and it was made even better by sharing it with my family from afar! Great idea Mom!
7
Sometimes it's just the wine. But rarely. Most of the time it's about spending time with family and friends, enjoying good food and lively conversation. And wine. Thanks for sharing your experience with your mom.
4
Bringing people together is what we do! So pleased that you and your mom could take part in Wine School.
4
Now about that Tanbark Hill. Straight out of the bottle the odor was off-putting and the taste almost sour. It's improved substantially with time, but remains too acidic for me. I'm very interested in others' takes on this wine; maybe my bottle was flawed?
We only tried the Ramey but we were able to purchase it right in town at the Princeton Corkscrew. For aroma I would say fruit but not sweet fruit more like dark cherries or prunes. My husband thought there was a hint of savory as well as the fruit. It was an enjoyable aroma that invited a deep sniff.
As for accessibility, we enjoyed the wine. I don't know enough to say if it would be better with more aging. One of the benefits of wine school is that it has encouraged us to buy more expensive wines than we normally would. On the other hand once I have spent that much on a bottle I feel a bit pressured to enjoy it.
I served lamb loins rubbed with garlic and rosemary with the wine. The Ramey did not overwhelm the food. They stood up well to each other and complemented each other. I would serve this wine again for a special dinner.
As for accessibility, we enjoyed the wine. I don't know enough to say if it would be better with more aging. One of the benefits of wine school is that it has encouraged us to buy more expensive wines than we normally would. On the other hand once I have spent that much on a bottle I feel a bit pressured to enjoy it.
I served lamb loins rubbed with garlic and rosemary with the wine. The Ramey did not overwhelm the food. They stood up well to each other and complemented each other. I would serve this wine again for a special dinner.
1
Why such young wines?
3
The best thing about Frog's Leap is the logo on the merchandise, "Time's fun when you're having flies."
2
For me the Ramey had a noticeable aroma, not much fruit and a good deal of acid (if that's the right term), but not overwhelming. The combination was quite pleasant, which surprised me considering its tender age (and a good thing at this price level!). I wouldn't call it a "power Cab"; even with chicken it did not jar.
Something odd about the Tanbark Hill bottle: I don't see the alcohol content (which I thought was required and like to know). Nor could I find it on their website. Anyone?
Something odd about the Tanbark Hill bottle: I don't see the alcohol content (which I thought was required and like to know). Nor could I find it on their website. Anyone?
1
You're right, I couldn't find the ABV on the bottle either. The winery says it's 13.9 percent.
1
Thank you!
Cab for me is terra incognita. From the relatively few I’ve had—we eat little red meat—my impression is: a grapey blanket, useful for suffocating whatever lighter flavors happen to be nearby. The Frog’s Leap was not such a wine.
On opening, its nose held intrigue. Sweet, candied cherry and licorice smells mixed with earthy forest and tar. It’s blend of aromas, recognizable and un-, seemed oddly “educated.” Also sunny and smooth and muscular. A buff, UC student-athlete! On tasting, the attack was candy sweet, but dissolved steadily into tangy, tart and wiry, just fast enough to keep it one step short of cloying. At finish, there was a pleasant bitter note and the memory of sweetness.
For a treat, we took it out to Leopard’s Sunday night BYOB and rib-eye steak (after a 90 minute home decant, then re-bottling). The sweetness was now more muted and the tastes more intriguing, like the smell. On first sip after wild mushrooms it had a big unrecognizable earthy flavor that I loved, but never got again. Surprisingly, it was at its loveliest with a light app of chickpea flour flatbread with kale, cannellini and chickpeas. Not overpowering at all. Again, so “educated.” With the juicy rib-eye, it was totally fine, but uninspiring. Food and wine, both delicious, were each perfectly accompanied, but unimproved. (And with my wife’s eggplant pasta alla norma it was truly poor.)
An hour into the meal the wine regained some of its initial sweet smoothness. Odd. Good.
--Dan Barron
On opening, its nose held intrigue. Sweet, candied cherry and licorice smells mixed with earthy forest and tar. It’s blend of aromas, recognizable and un-, seemed oddly “educated.” Also sunny and smooth and muscular. A buff, UC student-athlete! On tasting, the attack was candy sweet, but dissolved steadily into tangy, tart and wiry, just fast enough to keep it one step short of cloying. At finish, there was a pleasant bitter note and the memory of sweetness.
For a treat, we took it out to Leopard’s Sunday night BYOB and rib-eye steak (after a 90 minute home decant, then re-bottling). The sweetness was now more muted and the tastes more intriguing, like the smell. On first sip after wild mushrooms it had a big unrecognizable earthy flavor that I loved, but never got again. Surprisingly, it was at its loveliest with a light app of chickpea flour flatbread with kale, cannellini and chickpeas. Not overpowering at all. Again, so “educated.” With the juicy rib-eye, it was totally fine, but uninspiring. Food and wine, both delicious, were each perfectly accompanied, but unimproved. (And with my wife’s eggplant pasta alla norma it was truly poor.)
An hour into the meal the wine regained some of its initial sweet smoothness. Odd. Good.
--Dan Barron
Hello Eric,
You have a very educated School of Wine followers. While it is true the legacy of the Napa Valley will out live us all and prices are a subject of discussion for many... quality characteristics of fruit and (terroir) reign supreme. The Cab's you selected are good to excellent as examples of Napa on any given vintage. I use the San Francisco Chronicle as a quality to price ratio of value knowing that the big boys still want to represent and are recognized accordingly, like:(Stag's Leap Wine Cellars) knowing Chappellet absolutely over delivers and BV, St. Supery, Mondavi, and St. Jean winemakers push the envelope of quality to the consumer aka:(accountant winemaking). A winemaking friend bought 2 ton of cab from Beckstoffer 2 yrs ago, $2500/ton all Napa fruit! Prices are still in line, delivering QPR wines to NYC you look golden, less than 500 cs/prod. not so much.
I like:
-Frank Family Napa Cab.
-Trefethen Family Vineyards
-J. Phelps and countless others
Always love Ramey, must decant Château CANTEMERLE, Quilceda Creek needs it too...
Brian Roy,
Assistant Winemaker
Watermill Winery
You have a very educated School of Wine followers. While it is true the legacy of the Napa Valley will out live us all and prices are a subject of discussion for many... quality characteristics of fruit and (terroir) reign supreme. The Cab's you selected are good to excellent as examples of Napa on any given vintage. I use the San Francisco Chronicle as a quality to price ratio of value knowing that the big boys still want to represent and are recognized accordingly, like:(Stag's Leap Wine Cellars) knowing Chappellet absolutely over delivers and BV, St. Supery, Mondavi, and St. Jean winemakers push the envelope of quality to the consumer aka:(accountant winemaking). A winemaking friend bought 2 ton of cab from Beckstoffer 2 yrs ago, $2500/ton all Napa fruit! Prices are still in line, delivering QPR wines to NYC you look golden, less than 500 cs/prod. not so much.
I like:
-Frank Family Napa Cab.
-Trefethen Family Vineyards
-J. Phelps and countless others
Always love Ramey, must decant Château CANTEMERLE, Quilceda Creek needs it too...
Brian Roy,
Assistant Winemaker
Watermill Winery
3
Couldn't find any of Eric's first choices. Found Napanook 2011 by Dominus Estate. Decanted it for several hours, found strong dark berry aroma on the nose, & spice notes of unknown type. First sip yielded heavy berry fruit with plum notes with acids coming through and very subtle tannins. Very smooth overall. The acids and tannins gave way to the dominant fruit flavor as we ate our salads. Paired the wine with steak and potatoes and beans. Big wine, big meal. Savory and sweet were in good balance and the tannins stayed very quiet. Kathy loved the smoothness of this offering but I thought it too much of a fruit bomb. The price of this wine is comparable to the Chateau Cantemerle but to me the Cantemerle is preferable. This is a personal preference. The tannins in Cantemerle provide a backbone which give me more of a "feeling" experience which I prefer versus the explosion of flavor in the mouth from the Napa. I believe the Napa wine is too dominant, good once in a while but not a steady partner.
We'll have to try other Napa Cabs see if this experience is typical.
We'll have to try other Napa Cabs see if this experience is typical.
For me quintessential Napa Cabernet comes from Chappellet. For the money I've never found an equal to their Signature Cab. Now the Pritchard Hill is another matter entirely. Great but too costly for what you get.
Frog's Leap is a surprisingly classic Rutherford Bench Cabernet and also a great "value" Napa quality wine. I would recommend visiting Corison as its very low key but absolutely brilliant Cabernet (visited in 2009) when we were passing through Napa.
3
As a former Corison club member, I heartily agree. Cathy's consistent and light hand with her grapes makes for an elegant Cab. We've enjoyed vintages from 2000 - 2010. Still holding 2010s - 2012, but our cellar is running a bit low.
Hmmm .... May need to buy some more .....
Hmmm .... May need to buy some more .....
While I found Frog's Leap attractive on the first encounter, Ramey required time and patience to get to know it. Faintly fragrant at first, reticent, austere and savory, it needed air and time to reveal its underlying qualities and character. But at the end it was worth it. It occurred to me later that Ramey must have been made in quite a loyal Bordeaux style.
Immediately upon uncorking, in the bottle the wine emanated a light scent of dark berries. In taste it was tannic and somewhat acidic with a detectable alcohol. After 1.5 hrs of decanting its tannins mellowed and the wine began to transform. I didn't think that it was too young to drink now, but it would've probably benefit from the longer aging process.
We had grilled salmon steaks with a light black pepper sauce alongside soft yellow corn tortilla and avocado roulade. The wine with food worked really well I thought, as any one bite and sip showcased a range of intermingling and complex flavors - from intense and spicy notes that warmed up the palate, to tar, and slightly sweeter but restrained berries. The wine was structured, with smooth texture and a medium-long finish. At this point into dinner, probably 2-2.5 hrs later, I began to identify the presence of a new and just so slightly sweet scent of black cherries. The wine was still evolving and so I left a glassful for the next day to taste. I am as intrigued by drinking this wine today as I am by its potential as it matures.
Immediately upon uncorking, in the bottle the wine emanated a light scent of dark berries. In taste it was tannic and somewhat acidic with a detectable alcohol. After 1.5 hrs of decanting its tannins mellowed and the wine began to transform. I didn't think that it was too young to drink now, but it would've probably benefit from the longer aging process.
We had grilled salmon steaks with a light black pepper sauce alongside soft yellow corn tortilla and avocado roulade. The wine with food worked really well I thought, as any one bite and sip showcased a range of intermingling and complex flavors - from intense and spicy notes that warmed up the palate, to tar, and slightly sweeter but restrained berries. The wine was structured, with smooth texture and a medium-long finish. At this point into dinner, probably 2-2.5 hrs later, I began to identify the presence of a new and just so slightly sweet scent of black cherries. The wine was still evolving and so I left a glassful for the next day to taste. I am as intrigued by drinking this wine today as I am by its potential as it matures.
4
Any news on the "sequel" to "Bottle Shock"? Heard that a film about Warren Winiarski, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, and The 1976 Paris Tasting was in the works.
1
Really? I hope that's true.
I reached for Frog's Leap first. Initially I couldn't extract the predominant note in the bouquet that I was sniffing out of the bottle: blackberries, black currants? Until my mother pinpointed it when we held the wine in the glass: elderberry (not the flower but the berries) - the fragrance of the small dark blue-black (or dark purple) savory fruit berries.
I decanted the wine for about 45 min before taking my first sip. It was medium-full in body, not robust or overpowering, even without the food, but velvety and awakening all taste buds in the mouth with a range of flavors from fruity to savory. The wine evoked a warm feeling of a familiar pastime and brought a simple, yet an amusing enjoyment.
I don't eat meat so I thought of a "gamy" alternative, and I simply roasted lightly seasoned swordfish steaks with "meaty" portobello mushroom caps in a peppery balsamic vinegar marinade. The wine didn't overwhelm the fish but it wasn't the most harmonious pairing. The fish lacked the buttery texture to complement the wine's body or showcase its qualities, so instead of the wine's plushness it evoked its acidity and alcohol. It paired nicely with the juicy "smoky" portobellos in a just so lightly sweet peppery sauce and encased the dish in a beautiful vail of flavors: from invigorating dark fruit berries to smooth and savory. The wine evoked certain masculine quality and directness, perhaps because of its young age, but not without deft smoothness that I found very enjoyable.
I decanted the wine for about 45 min before taking my first sip. It was medium-full in body, not robust or overpowering, even without the food, but velvety and awakening all taste buds in the mouth with a range of flavors from fruity to savory. The wine evoked a warm feeling of a familiar pastime and brought a simple, yet an amusing enjoyment.
I don't eat meat so I thought of a "gamy" alternative, and I simply roasted lightly seasoned swordfish steaks with "meaty" portobello mushroom caps in a peppery balsamic vinegar marinade. The wine didn't overwhelm the fish but it wasn't the most harmonious pairing. The fish lacked the buttery texture to complement the wine's body or showcase its qualities, so instead of the wine's plushness it evoked its acidity and alcohol. It paired nicely with the juicy "smoky" portobellos in a just so lightly sweet peppery sauce and encased the dish in a beautiful vail of flavors: from invigorating dark fruit berries to smooth and savory. The wine evoked certain masculine quality and directness, perhaps because of its young age, but not without deft smoothness that I found very enjoyable.
2
Well, this just goes to show that you can't please everyone. I agree that the article could be longer and more inclusive of the many aspects of Napa Cabs - maybe it would serve to split this part of the school into two or three parts to cover the ranges by price or style.
Napa Valley has become the epitome of commercialization of the wine industry, especially for visitors. It is almost Disneyfied, with Orlando-sized tasting room "experiences" that overshadow the enjoyment of wine (and with some of the wines in those places, that is not a bad idea).
But purchasing and enjoying Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley is another matter. I have found wonderful wines in the $20 - $50 range, often second labels of well-known producers.
There is the experience of drinking the NAPA greats - Duckhorn, Stag's Leap, Joseph Phelps Insignia and the like, which is comparable to the great wines of Bordeaux (not the same style, but the experience of drinking great wines). Then there are the cult favorites, which I have not had much experience with.
Would a Bordeaux wine school include only First Growths and call itself complete? I don't think so, because there are many wonderful wines in other classifications - something that is true with any great wine region.
So, a suggestion or two for under $50 Cabs from Napa: Mt. Veeder, Atlas Peak, Honig, Clos du Val, Louis Martini, Silverado, and Fogdog. Not all great wines, but all very drinkable and in the Napa style.
http://jimlockardonwine.com/
Napa Valley has become the epitome of commercialization of the wine industry, especially for visitors. It is almost Disneyfied, with Orlando-sized tasting room "experiences" that overshadow the enjoyment of wine (and with some of the wines in those places, that is not a bad idea).
But purchasing and enjoying Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley is another matter. I have found wonderful wines in the $20 - $50 range, often second labels of well-known producers.
There is the experience of drinking the NAPA greats - Duckhorn, Stag's Leap, Joseph Phelps Insignia and the like, which is comparable to the great wines of Bordeaux (not the same style, but the experience of drinking great wines). Then there are the cult favorites, which I have not had much experience with.
Would a Bordeaux wine school include only First Growths and call itself complete? I don't think so, because there are many wonderful wines in other classifications - something that is true with any great wine region.
So, a suggestion or two for under $50 Cabs from Napa: Mt. Veeder, Atlas Peak, Honig, Clos du Val, Louis Martini, Silverado, and Fogdog. Not all great wines, but all very drinkable and in the Napa style.
http://jimlockardonwine.com/
4
Hello Eric,
I share your point of view regarding Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. As a Canadian consumer, I search for best quality and value for the dollar (the taxes on wine are significantly higher in Ontario). I am always impressed in the quality and consistency of the following producers (and vintage) :
St. Supéry Estate 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) 28$
Black Stallion 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) 28$
Franciscan 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) 29$
I share your point of view regarding Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. As a Canadian consumer, I search for best quality and value for the dollar (the taxes on wine are significantly higher in Ontario). I am always impressed in the quality and consistency of the following producers (and vintage) :
St. Supéry Estate 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) 28$
Black Stallion 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) 28$
Franciscan 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) 29$
1
After reading several columns, I've decided that they are elitist and cater to the 1%. No good Napa Cabernets for < $50.....really? Why don't you try writing for the millions of wine drinkers who cannot afford such prices? This column is useless for most of us.
3
As a school teacher, I enjoy learning and I enjoy drinking wine. While I won't participate fully this month due to the cost of these wines, I will try some cheaper cabs that I know about from quality sources. I don't step foot in Napa anymore, the soul of Napa for me is gone, it is the crowded Disneyland/Walmart of wine and I prefer Sonoma or Paso where wine makers are still accessible and quality is still a driving force. Yet, there is great wine there that even I can afford (some suggestions already in the comments below) and good retailers can help you find those wines. Mr. Asimov has published many reviews about lower cost wines (see 20 under 20 for example) and in other reviews of wines, he shows which wines are the best bargains. The reality is wine can be ridiculously expensive and that is a shame, but it does not have to be that way to be fully enjoyed.
1
Jim, The 1% nonsense seems to appear at least once a month here. Napa cabs are expensive. So what? Use Asimov's article as a mere guide. Take his recommendations to a good wine store and have a conversation with someone knowledgeable. Be creative, work by analogy and, for god's sake, stop whining. Any true 1%er already has his/her wine cellar in place and is not looking to the good Eric Asimov for guidance.
16
KM Dyer, did you notice that one of the Napa Valley Cabs mentioned in the Feb. 26 lead in Wine School piece was Dyer Vineyard?
I just served the 2010 St. Supery Elu Wednesday night with Grilled Lamb Loin Chops and Celery Root puree. Decanted for an hour or so before serving and my wine savvy guest was swooning! Beautiful wine!
On your list I was particularly thrilled to see Philip Togni's wine. I've been a big fan of his since I lived in the Bay Area in the mid 80's. Very distinctive wines.
On your list I was particularly thrilled to see Philip Togni's wine. I've been a big fan of his since I lived in the Bay Area in the mid 80's. Very distinctive wines.
For those who are interested, several of the wines listed make their wines from organic vines. Specifically Frog's Leap and Spottswoode's estate Cab come from organic estate vineyards. Heitz Cellar's Trailside and Martha's Vinyeard cabs come from organic vines. Volker Eisele's cabs, made from organic estate vines, are the only ones on this list that put the words "Ingredients: Organic Grapes" on the bottle label."
3
I cracked open a bottle of the 2010 St. Supery Elu a couple nights ago for a wine savvy friend. I'd grilled up Lamb Loin Chops served with mashed Celery Root. He was swooning! The wine and dinner… spectacular! The Elu, a blend, 76% Cabernet, 17% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec, and 1% Cabernet Franc… the perfect $50 bottle of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon.
As to the wines you suggested, I've been championing anything made by Philip Togni since the mid 80's when I lived in The Bay Area and first discovered them.
All his wines are very special!
As to the wines you suggested, I've been championing anything made by Philip Togni since the mid 80's when I lived in The Bay Area and first discovered them.
All his wines are very special!
You may not be an admirer of the "style defined by power, impact and exuberant fruit flavors" but some of us are. Why don't you give us some recommendations? This is not a school - this is you trying to foist your own tastes on the reading public
1
Wine, being subjective by nature (you declare your own bias here as well) what can you really expect when only three of thousdands of wines are described here with the intention of comparing wines of similar styles? Each month this seems to be purpose and it works well and a range of styles have been open for tasting and discussion (see the installment on Zinfandel for example) Go look up the Wine Advocate if you want the style you describe, you'll find what you are looking for there. For me, this is school and class is in session.
3
@Marsha: Why don't you go read the Wine Spectator?
2
I don't think I'd be much of a critic if I didn't hold considered opinions about particular styles of wine. Here's a column I wrote addressing that question.
3
Nice and fruity, but one dimensional and lacking complexity -- there is a reason why we call one Napa wine "Opus One Note."
I compared them with a very good $20 Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois, and it was somehow more satisfying. That said, I had a 1976 from the Rutherford Bench a year ago and it was quite good. All in all, you can do something a lot more interesting with your Benjamin.
I compared them with a very good $20 Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois, and it was somehow more satisfying. That said, I had a 1976 from the Rutherford Bench a year ago and it was quite good. All in all, you can do something a lot more interesting with your Benjamin.
2
Part of the purpose of Wine School is to reconsider preconceived notions. It might be that if you were to try these wines, you'd change your mind. Or maybe not, in which case you've reaffirmed your taste, which has its own value.
3
We've been enjoying wine school all year. We ultimately managed to get a couple of the recommended wines every month, but being on the West Coast I generally had to order them and didn't have them in time to drink and comment before the end of the month. Hooray for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon! By all reports 2012 is a great vintage. Not only do I have some in my cellar already, my local wine shop has all three of the recommended wines in stock and I'll pick them up this week. So I'll be back with a real comment later in the month! Looking forward to reading everyone's experiences with this wine and sharing my own.
I recall living the napa region in the early 1970's and regrettably not investing at the time and doing the same thing some years later at the very start of the Oregon pinots. If I only would have had the funds at the time.................. Two major regrets of my life.
I looked into investing in Napa Valley, albeit half-heartedly in the mid-1990's. I would have had to cash in my 401k and taken the equity out of my house. What I found in my price range appeared to be a driveway into a backyard.
At that point I had not fully comprehended the leverage provided by being a nuisance to the very wealthy.
At that point I had not fully comprehended the leverage provided by being a nuisance to the very wealthy.
1
It's hard to pinpoint the exact time or precise moment, but I think that my first introduction to wine was in a glass of a Cabernet Sauvignon, and it was one of the first wines that I started drinking.
I'm relatively new to wine, and it's only been through the Wine School that I've truly started to understand the science and art of wine - like a painting or a poem - beyond the basic tenets lies its subjective experience, which is what I love about it. Professor Asimov can give us the theory but it's up to me to see, "touch," smell, taste, and interpret my reactions and my relationship with it. And that can be defined by specific moment, situation, context - the process so dynamic and exciting!
With this month's installment I was able to find all three wines - for the most part that has been my experience. I realize I'm fortunate to live in NYC with access to a vast array of specialty products in general (also it helps to live in the same town as the instructor).
I only purchased two wines for the class this month because its subject is expensive. I got Frog’s Leap at Michael Towne Wines and Spirits ($56), Downtown Brooklyn, and Ramey Cellars at Sherry-Lehmann, Midtown Manhattan ($59). I located Philip Togni but decided not to go beyond my budget (at Sip Fine Wine in Brooklyn ($58)). My decision to go with the other two wines was arbitrary, by convenience rather than an informed decision, but perhaps I should've asked the teacher. So I'm set and can't wait to begin.
I'm relatively new to wine, and it's only been through the Wine School that I've truly started to understand the science and art of wine - like a painting or a poem - beyond the basic tenets lies its subjective experience, which is what I love about it. Professor Asimov can give us the theory but it's up to me to see, "touch," smell, taste, and interpret my reactions and my relationship with it. And that can be defined by specific moment, situation, context - the process so dynamic and exciting!
With this month's installment I was able to find all three wines - for the most part that has been my experience. I realize I'm fortunate to live in NYC with access to a vast array of specialty products in general (also it helps to live in the same town as the instructor).
I only purchased two wines for the class this month because its subject is expensive. I got Frog’s Leap at Michael Towne Wines and Spirits ($56), Downtown Brooklyn, and Ramey Cellars at Sherry-Lehmann, Midtown Manhattan ($59). I located Philip Togni but decided not to go beyond my budget (at Sip Fine Wine in Brooklyn ($58)). My decision to go with the other two wines was arbitrary, by convenience rather than an informed decision, but perhaps I should've asked the teacher. So I'm set and can't wait to begin.
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I am extremely surprised this is such a short
article on Cabernet. Almost want to type "really?"
article on Cabernet. Almost want to type "really?"
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It's just the introduction. In Wine School, I introduce a topic, suggest three wines that we can all drink over the next few weeks, and then return with a longer report that incorporates reactions from readers, too. I hope you'll check out a few of the previous entries, and then take part and offer your own thoughts.
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Hey thanks for the article Eric. I think it is a little misleading to say that you cant find solid, Napa Cabernet representation, that is worthy of seeking out, for under $50.
Ultimately saying this doesn't do ANY justice to the Napa Cab producers, who offer their representation of the "Napa Cab" for under $50, or wine drinkers, who would probably love a a bottle of ...lets say, Stratton-Lummis Cabernet Sauvignon $25, or Terra Valentine Estate Cabernet, Spring Mountain District – $39..wouldn't you say?
Cheers!
Derich Marsh
winegeographic.com
Ultimately saying this doesn't do ANY justice to the Napa Cab producers, who offer their representation of the "Napa Cab" for under $50, or wine drinkers, who would probably love a a bottle of ...lets say, Stratton-Lummis Cabernet Sauvignon $25, or Terra Valentine Estate Cabernet, Spring Mountain District – $39..wouldn't you say?
Cheers!
Derich Marsh
winegeographic.com
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E. A. has always had a bit of an ax to grind when it comes to California wines. Just an observation, he may well be right. But predictable.
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Agree completely. NYC is a long way from Napa, so perhaps Eric, with his oft-stated dislike of the Napa style, isn't as up to speed as he could be. There are dozens, probably hundreds of good Napa cabs for sub-$50. Look for Madrigal, a good wine from a fantastically friendly family winery in Calistoga, Burgess, and Silverado's estate cab is sub-$50.
Additionally, Eric points out that Bordeaux is marketed on location and less by its dominant grape; that's growing in CA. Paraduxx does it almost exclusively, and a host of others have a lot of Meritages as well.
Additionally, Eric points out that Bordeaux is marketed on location and less by its dominant grape; that's growing in CA. Paraduxx does it almost exclusively, and a host of others have a lot of Meritages as well.
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Try the Hall Napa Valley cabs, and my old standard, 2012 BV Rutherford Cab.
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Good to see Frog's Leap on the list. They've been one of my go-to wineries in Napa for years for exactly the same reasons that Eric mentions. The wines aren't slathered in heavily toasted barrels, hold balance as well as a sense of place. The fact that they dry farm the vines doesn't hurt either.
Miquel Hudin
http:/www.vinologue.com
Miquel Hudin
http:/www.vinologue.com
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Just watched Bottle Shock last night and, while not a perfect interpretation of the 1976 tastings of Napa wines vs. Bordeaux and Burgundy in France, it is still a good story, conversation starter and a jumping off point for this month's installment.
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It's just a Hollywooded up version of the story and having started my professional career in wine in Napa, I found its ridiculousness only topped by Chris Pine's blond wig.
Indeed. Now, let's try some wine!
Yes, it's really insulting to Mike Grgich who actually made that Chardonnay and to the growers who grew that Chardonnay (not Chateau Montelena). Nonetheless the snobby English character is played soooooo well by Alan Rickman
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