The Plot Thickens in a Sequel

Mar 04, 2015 · 24 comments
Jeb (Texas)
Well, I all I know is I had Katy Sparks food many times over the years, and your meal would never have been that bad under her guard!
Ginger (NYC)
I had a delightful dinner for one last night at TOTG. Took advantage of the Restaurant Week menu. Started with an excellent cocktail called Staten Island. Had the mushroom soup to start. This is on the regular menu -- thank goodness -- because it was so delicious I will definitely want it again. I found no fault with course of arctic char on bed of basil risotto topped with watercress. Dessert was a bit weird, but I actually enjoyed that it made me think (not that that's always what one wants in a dessert). It was a pear poached in red wine, with slated caramel ice cream. What the description didn't say was that it was also topped with red peppercorns and bits of candied ginger. These hot accents actually turned out to be an interesting foil to the cold ice cream. But, I would not go out of my way to order that offering again. The new interior is lovely, and the staff was friendly and properly attentive without being stuffy. I bought a gift card for my mother- and father-in-law who appreciate fine dining in the city, and I definitely plan to attend with my husband who is a fellow foodie and I believe will enjoy the experience as much as I did. I wish Mr. Tower and crew much success.
Shireen (New York)
Love the writing!
AW (New York City)
I ate at the Tavern a few weeks ago and had an exquisite crab soup and the short ribs, which were delicious and perfectly cooked. Eager to go back. I have heard that Tower is gradually replacing kitchen staff from the previous reign so perhaps that process is still underway. Maybe the reviewer should give it another chance.
Jeane (Oakland, CA)
Mr. Wells, please please please come to the SF Bay Area and write your marvelous reviews on our sheeple restaurants, which could sorely use your wit and erudition. I almost fell off my chair laughing at your "...Holy Heirloom Squash" phrase - it captures Chez Panisse's ossified rigidity to perfection. I ate at CP in April 1975 and most recently, Jan 2015. The ingredients were exquisitely high quality, beautifully executed, and boring as all h&&l. It was Food As A Political Manifesto Of The Politically Correct. I don't always agree with chef Daniel Patterson, but he hit it on the nose when he ranted about how stultifying Ms. Waters' CA Cuisine had become.

Mr. Towers is very far from our favorite chef, but I hope he succeeds in reviving Tavern on the Green. It's a piece of history too rare to see it disappear.
vbruno1 (New York)
I've said it from the very beginning of this fiasco...the two guys who were plucked from crepe restaurant obscurity in Philadelphia to operate one of the highest grossing eateries in the world are in way over their collective heads.
Their first choice for Chef was woefully misguided, and that one crashed and burned after less than a year on the job. Now, for act two, they've chosen a Chef whose most recent restaurant closed in the previous century. I don't see how this ends much differently...Tower should have stayed in the Yucatan scouring the beach for starfish instead of making this last ego
driven grab for acclaim.
On top of this, add the fact that the waiting period for the Union organizers is growing shorter and they will make all attempts to re-establish a foothold in this high profile operation. Let's not even talk about the onerous lease agreement the city negotiated with Tavern...it's all a big mess, and when it finally sorts itself out, a new and more experienced group will come in to sweep up. Till then, go for a cocktail and enjoy the view. Then grab a bite to eat elsewhere.
JJ Skull (oakland, ca)
A 700 seat restaurant Can't be good unless its a cafeteria or a Dim Sum. Sorry You cannot control consistency in so called fine dining on this scale. Maybe split the place into different "restaurants" with smaller crews or turn it into a giant feed trough for the gaping tourist masses.
Jeb (Texas)
Not quite 700, but look what happened with the Russian Tea Room under Warner Leroi- same thing you're saying.
Susan (Holyoke MA)
Maybe David Geffen could help out?
DRB (Paris)
Too bad they took it away from the Leroys. It's been all downhill since.
mjm (New York, NY)
I am reminded of a two-prong PR campaign suggested- in jest - by a friend who was doing PR for Tavern on the Green in the early '90's. His mock campaign was "Tavern on the Green - It's not as Bad as You Think" along with "Tavern on the Green - You've had Worse Things in your Mouth." Looks like that might still be apt. Maybe it's time to bring the sheep back, not the tourists.
Patou (New York City, NY)
Why isn't this outdated, tacky dinosaur just put out to pasture? I know people-New Yorkers-who hopefully ventured into this tourist trap last summer and were ripped off and appalled at the chain restaurant garbage they were served and the sixth rate servers....some things cannot be resurrected. But the tourists sure seem to "eat it up".
gail p (New York)
We had a family gathering at the Tav at Christmas. Mr. Wells recapitulates just about everything I or someone in our party experienced. I really wanted this lovely venue to succeed. It would be such a beautiful place to stop in on a warm summer evening. But one runs the risk of being very disappointed.
irina (miami)
I too am confused about how a braised short rib can be dry?

It was a funny comedic article but I don't consider this a real restaurant review.
Jerome Gentes (Berkeley, CA)
In a professional kitchen of this size, the meat and liquid might be separated after the initial cooking to keep the meat from getting soggy, then the two re-combined to order. Or perhaps the meat is held in a warming oven separately. A dish could stand too long in the pass-through under a heating element. There are many ways it could happen.
Shun Li (USA)
You can dry out the meat while it is being braised if the temperature is not right.
CC (NYC)
I hope they can get this right.
Eddie M. (New York City)
Jeremiah Tower was never lacking in self esteem nor the ability to hype himself and his talent. The comment, "Mr. Tower was the chef who gave Chez Panisse its first taste of national fame and even its early identity..." could only have come from him.

It's not the slightest bit surprising that his newest act is a bust - he should be soon back in his scuba gear, standing on the beach, announcing to the cormorants that they're fortunate to have him back.
W84me (Armonk, NY)
He could also present us with crispy cormorant...
Hermann Reiner (10009)
Quite biased review, the picture is from last year summer season, as it shows outdoor seating,
how was the filet mignon ordered, rare, mr, m, mw? Please explain. the shrimp toast dropped into the broth gets soft, like a french onion soup.
The review must be really detailed in the dishes not on the personal taste of the food writer. How can a braised short rib be dry? is can be overcooked and maybe mushy but not dry.

nobody in the industry served the real Caesar dressing anymore, like with the 2 minutes boiled egg, raw egg yolk is omitted now because of health reason, plus anchovies is not everyone's taste.

What about the other desserts the food writer was testing

to mention Tavern meadow was for the sheep is completely out of line.

Tavern on the Green was never a Gourmet temple, during Leroy Warner id was a kitschy place, like his Maxwell Plum on First Avenue
The food writer does not understand that there is a difference between 300 seat restaurant and a Jean Georges
The 700 seats mentioned in the article must be with the summer outdoor seating. Indoor seating may be around 350 to 400, which includes the bar area.
rooney (salt lake city utah)
Sir, are you an investor in the restaurant? If I order filet mignon well done, should it be tough? And if I order a caesar salad, I would like it to taste of anchovies (not to mention garlic and lemon). If a restaurant dumbs down its recipes, it shouldn't expect a good review of the food quality. Raw pork? Oh well. Tavern on the Green has always been a mediocre spectacle, and apparently is keeping that fine tradition.
Michele (Fayetteville)
Pete is an excellent and hilarious food writer. The ending was sublime and captured that feeling when you have been ripped off, oh so well. Why can't he declare that the emperor has no clothes?
W84me (Armonk, NY)
Um, right, Hermann. And if you don't like anchovy, or traditional Caesar, DON'T ORDER IT. "I'm not really a fan of traditional Bolognese sauce, can you make it for me without the carrots and the meat?" "We don't like chocolate ice cream -- could we have chocolate without the chocolate?"

As usual, Mr. Wells' review is dead on. And yes, he's accommodating the difference between upper echelon restaurants and cafeterias of this nature.

Why can't they train the staff? As for the food -- it's probably too ambitious. They need to modify the menu -- and just serve food -- staples -- basics -- without trying up make it too upscale.

Either way -- the restaurant is still a dog. Was there a month in to the new reign. and it was more rain.
Paul (Philadelphia)
Excellent review! Almost as much fun to read as it must have been to write!