I would be more impressed with a climbing discipline that includes descending back down, the same way, hands and feet, no abseiling. Going just up is to artificial, not reflecting a real life human challenge. Like a cat that can quickly climb up a tree but needs a fire ladder to get back down.
12
Great story and fantastic pictures. Thanks!
8
The great mountaineer, Alex Lowe, contended
“the best climber is the one having the most fun”
With my new titanium knees rehabbing well, come Spring I intend to be in the thick of of that competition.
Thanks for the story on Adam, as well as the others on climbing the Times have been publishing from time to time.
7
Adam Ondra is not the best climber in the world. He is the best climber in the world at a certain type of climbing. The Olympics represents a slightly different sort of thing than he has excelled at but it is related. He is very adaptable and may well win, but winning the Olympics in any case, does not mean he is the 'best.' Climbing is a very broad sport with many facets. He has excelled at some of them--the ones he chooses to succeed in.
14
I loved this article, I love reading about climbing. In my 30+ years in the climbing community I've seen many changes in styles, ethics and how climbing is defined by the community itself. My own personal bliss is climbing outside using trad gear but I've been to the gym, ran up bolted sport routes and attended competitions. I've met a range of climbers who have deep a commitment to environmental ethics and those who are just in it for the glory and many in between.
One thing I have found out is that we only diminish ourselves by arguing who is the "best" climber at this or that type of climbing and we are at our best when we celebrate accomplishments, reach our own goals and support each other when tragedy strikes. I'd dare to assume that should you ask Ondra, Sharma, Caldwell or Lynn Hill or any climber of great renown who they thought was the "best", you wouldn't get a straight answer from them. Besides, I rather instead be treated to stories of epic accomplishments than discuss who was the better climber.
The rest is all ego.
25
The best climber in the world? You obviously never heard of Alex Honnold. Climbers in the world have one god. His name is Alex Honnold, who, without ropes or safety harness, climbed el Capitan. The only man alive to do it. Probably the only man who ever will. That's climbing. The rest, with all due respect, is entertainment.
13
Best climber in the world...that uses a rope.
7
Four words:
Alex
Honnold
Free
Solo
12
How is the IOC this out of touch?
8
He's a beast. Speed Climbing has no place in a sport based on technique. It's like having a cooking competition based on how fast you can chop onions. Nobody cares how fast you can chop onions, they care if you can make a dish.
36
Such a pleasure to read an informed article about climbing in a non-specialty publication. The stuff after Free Solo was just embarrassing...
8
I don’t understand all the “best climber in the world” stuff. Maybe he’s the “best” at something specific in the climbing world. Cool. Just say that. “Best teacher” “best runner” “best artist”... life doesn’t work like that.
6
I am such an acrophobic that even watching a video of climbers makes my hands sweat and my head spin. I don’t understand the drive to do this. But I agree with Ondra on the “circus” aspect of speed climbing. It makes no sense to turn a methodical, balletic, considered art into a kind of monkey trick.
5
I think Alex Holnold would take exception to “worlds best climber”
5
I climbed for years in NY state yet I see multiple "default male" stories - write a story with the same gusto, style and word count on the best climber in the world - best without stating gender, but making it about a female. https://www.redbull.com/us-en/9-legendary-female-climbers
10
What a beautifully written article! I spent a full half hour, and maybe a bit more, watching Adam climb Silence. Then I read up on Chris Sharma and his work setting up the route on La Dura Dura. I learned about redpointing, onsighting, beta, and a flash climb.
I knew climbing was hard - now I know why climbers do it. It's a much spiritual as physical. Thank you so much.
13
The only way to get people to watch is to emphasize speed but that's a gimmick. As is competition climbing. A made for TV sport that's no more dangerous than falling asleep in bed.
He is a great climber and, if Honnold says so, the best. Too bad he has to participate in this to get sponsors and recognition.
Somewhere, Bridwell and Messner are laughing. The best aren't determined indoors. Not now, not ever.
7
Speed climbing is a thing?
4
Just wait til all the speedy posers take over the indoor climbing walls after the Olympics. Madness!
4
Ondra is an absolute beast. Climbing is such a wholesome activity. I’ll be cheering for him in the upcoming Olympic!
7
Great piece. Now follow with one of Fred Becky....
6
As the spouse of a climber, even I know that The IOC's focus flies in the face of what climbing is. Speed? Really? Having spent a life time belaying and watching a 45 minute chess game with hand holds, it's definitely alien to the craft.
13
Just watching him is an extremely emotional experience.
7
I’m afraid of getting on the first step of a ladder. You guys are all awesome.
5
"The world's best climber." What a ridiculous thing to say. Climbing has many dimensions. Ondra excels at a few of them. Good for him. But John Branch, you need to realize that reality is multidimensional.
7
Please, no more stories glorifying this sport and its people. My climbing gym's already too crowded.
2
A very persevering tale of a driven athlete.
Such doggedness and resolute steadfastness in the face of so many failures only strengthens one’s desire to reach for the top—some of the many traits the entire coterie of Dem hopefuls can use if they’re to ever have a shot at beating the WH incumbent.
4
I have such admiration for the strength, concentration and discipline of these high level climbers.
I am a bit surprised, though, that the climbing world supports an Olympic event. Climbing to me always seemed more about the climb, the challenge of new routes, safely pushing your limits, and most of all —enjoying your accomplishments with those of others.
C’est la vie.
11
So glad the climbing community chimed in on the Comments. I learned a lot reading them.
The athleticism and sheer beauty of climbing is amazing. Thanks to climber-filmmakers like Jimmy Chinn, we can share in the joy and awesomeness.
Love to see the NYT run more articles on climbing and how about featuring women climbers?
19
SPEED is NOT climbing. Climbing is a religion apart from normal everyday existence. I'll take any mountaineer who has experienced the hardships of altitude sickness, hunger, loneliness, exposure and near death for days, weeks and sometimes a month or more for anyone who can jackrabbit with skill. We are losing what it means to climb as an existence. Hats off to Adam for free climbing-THE most wholesome form of climbing there is. But as usual it eventually can come at a cost-namely your life. I'm old school and will always abide by the love that climbing, above all things I've ever experienced gives you: The knowledge of self. Climbing should never be a competitive sport. It is a window unto your own soul.
19
@Evagee Sorry to correct you but you’re confusing ‘free climbing’ with ‘free soloing’. Adam free climbs meaning he uses ropes and safety gear however does not rely on them to get to the top. He generally doesn’t free solo. Alex Honnold is famous for free solo. Speed climbing is indeed real climbing and a thing outside of indoor competitions. The speed record on El Capitan’s Nose route has drawn the greatest rock climbers for decades - Florine, Hirayama, Potter, Gobright, Caldwell and Honnold. The IOC basically wanted only speed climbing so we were lucky to get bouldering and lead (ie ‘real’ climbing) at all. Just enjoy the spectacle!
4
if you read the article, he mentioned that he was not a speed climber.
1
I'm curious how someone is the "best climber in the world"? How can anyone judge something like that? It can't be by speed alone. And equivalency might be "player X is the best running back in the NFL, because he runs the 40 in 4.3 seconds."
9
@Joe if you’re familiar with the grading systems in climbing, it’s simple. He has done by far the most hard outdoor routes (dozens of routes graded 9b or higher, while the next best has maybe a handful), not to mention he’s been by far the most dominant in indoor competition climbing
30
@Joe You’re right. It is probably better to say that Ondra is one of the very best free climbers on rock having done more climbs at the extreme level of difficulty of the sport (climbs rated at 5.13 +) than anybody else. That leaves plenty of room for others to be at the top of their game in other climbing disciplines—ice climbing, mountaineering, big wall first ascents and yes, free soloing.
7
@Cole
1) Adam has not done the most high rated outdoor climbs . Not vein close . Study the history ! Fact is he has yet to equal many climbs ( including the Dawn Wall using aids where TC did not ) and has yet to establish one single new outdoor climb ... the true mark of outdoor climber
2) He has not been the most dominant indoor climber . Although at the top of the game currently he has lost more than his fair share of events .. and has come close to losing the overall title more often than not
Does that mean he's not a great climber ? Of course not . He is . But the best ? At best that is pure unadulterated hyperbole for the sake of getting readers attention
1
My favorite story about Adam is his foray up the Nose of El Capitan with his father on his first big trip to Yosemite. I think this was in early November 2016 just prior to climbing the Dawn Wall. Adam onsighted (climbed without falls on his first try without prior practice) all but 2 (Great Roof, Changing Corners) of the thirty-some pitches on the route. In context, nobody has ever climbed it successfully without prior rehearsal.
When they summitted it was too dark to find the descent, so Adam and his dad spent a drizzly night spooning on top of El Cap without sleeping bags or a tent. That's the story of a climber's climber who will be climbing to rocks as long as his body will allow.
61
I like Honnold because of the courage he has to climb unprotected on difficult climbs. Watching the documentary about him, it’s unbelievable the confidence and courage he has. He does climbs that took a days and finishes in a few hours.
18
@Tim Phillips yeah Honnold is the greatest free soloist the world has ever seen. A prodigy. He’s also an incredible traditional climber (doing routes using clean removable protection - cams and chocks). But when it comes to the worlds hardest rock climbs he’s about 5 grades below the top and probably outside of best 100, and in indoor competitions he doesn’t rate a mention. Kudos to Alex tho he’s a phenomenon.
12
Climbing is one of the most impressive feats of athleticism I have ever participated in or witnessed. I find it odd that speed climbing is how the Olympics have chosen to represent it. Probably just the easiest way to objectively judge the sport for medals.
38
Exactly. Most bouldering type competitions with progressively more difficult routes seems to me to be the way to go.
6
The IOC is very similar to FIFA. With all that entails. Really the Olympics is now just a corporate enterprise maximizing revenue for the small number of corporations running it.
His life would be better without the Olympics.
26
Let me say this a lot more succinctly. Climbing is more like golf than running. Could you imagine Tiger Woods training to speed golf? Neither could I. That's what the Olympics are asking climbers to do.
47
@Andy
Odd choice picking one of the fittest most athletic golfers of all time and a competitor of the highest order who would surely find a way to become the world's best speed golfer if he wanted to.
I see you point though and completely agree in the context of climbing.
6
@Andy I'd love to see speed golf! No groupings -- one golfer goes out every three minutes. Put a time limit on every shot after the tee shot. Once on the green you only have 60 seconds between each putt. Maybe have players starting from 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17 so there's action on the whole course from the start.
You'd have pileups on difficult holes and players passing each other. It would a nightmare for the TV crews but a ton of fun for the viewers for whom golf is still too slow.
21
@Tyler
Fair point. Tiger Woods probably could become the world's best fastest golfer. But why would you want him to? He'd play better golf playing at the natural rhythm of the game. It's like asking Serena Williams to play slower tennis.
4
As a [retired] climber/mountaineer myself, I find it egregious and out of touch that the IOC would consider speed the salient feature of climbing. When I first began climbing the most difficult routes were classified 5.10. I was floored when, years later, I saw a photo of Ray Jardine climbing the roof section of Separate Reality, rated 5.12. Now I guess were up to 5.15
This, to me, is climbing skill. Not speed.
104
No disrespect to Ondra, who is incredible, but Honnold (despite his own humble assertions, has done things even more unimaginable in climbing -- ie, his free soloing. Best is alwats subjective.
11
@JHS They are completely different disciplines that test very different skills. It doesn't even really make sense to compare freesoloing Freerider to redpointing Silence or being the first person to onsight 5.15a.
Personally, it's unimaginable for me to ever freesolo anything, never mind a multipitch with a 5.13d section. It's just as unimaginable to think I could do a single isolated crux move on 5.15d. Ondra could hike up Freerider if he wanted, but I doubt he would want to do it unprotected. And Honnold would never be bothered by the danger of Silence, but he's nowhere near strong enough to climb it.
They're both incredible. It's futile for us spectators to try and parse which is more deserving of any superlative.
64
@JHS He does free climb. “Ondra has climbed three of the four hardest routes in the world; no one else has done more than one. He went to Yosemite National Park for the first time in 2016 and became the third person to free climb El Capitan’s Dawn Wall”
1
Wonderful story!
The soul of climbing is outdoors. Some outdoor photos would be nice.
14
@me ...but !...but !... the article is not about the 'great outdoors.'
2
My apologies but I have never heard of Adam. Most of us Alex, Tommy, and other world-class rock climbers. I didn’t know speed climbing was so popular that the leader in this area would be called the best climber overall. Hopefully the Olympics are set up like existing bouldering competitions.
10
Adam Ondra is well known in the climbing community. Also he’s not just some ‘speed climber’ who spends his time indoors. He’s completed what is considered the most difficult route, Silence in Norway, as well as a number of impressive ascents around the world.
Not saying he’s the definitive best in the world, but ya, wanted to push back cause he ain’t a nobody.
58
@Chris McClure No you misunderstand. Adam is just learning speed climbing for the Olympics and is no where near the best in the world at it. Adam is BY FAR the best lead climber in the world and has been for at least 5 years. Honnold is by far the best free solo (i.e. no rope) climber in history but does not hold a candle to Adam in ability to get up the hardest routes. Tommy is world class but far behind either Adam or Honnold in their best disciplines. The best lead climber after Adam would be Chris Sharma but his total climbs of 5.15 b-d are 8 as compared to Adam with 24 (but Sharma has never climbed 5.15c or d). Adam is the only person to climb 5.15d to date. Sebastain Bouin is the only other person after Adam who has climbed 5.15c more than once (2 times). Adam is in a class by himself.
53
@Chris McClure
Adam Ondra is not the at all the best speedclimber in the world. Did u read the article?
Honnold and Caldwell are both amazing climbers, but these days they wouldn't stand a chance against Ondra in terms of pure climbing difficulty. All incredible in their own right.
22
Climbing certainly deserves Olympic level respect. The most iconic Olympic sport is the marathon. Climbing El Cap makes a marathon look easy. Unfortunately, climbing doesn't translate well to an the Olympian's regimented system of evaluation.
The rating systems in climbing are an ongoing and contentious point of dispute. Is the route a 5.13? They are sub-categorized in difficulty from a through z. Even those rankings are disputed. Pretty soon climbers will be talking in hexadecimal.
A marathon by contrast is easy to understand. Run 26 miles fast. That's it. No one asks whether it was hot, dry, wet, cold, storming, granite or slate. You've never wondered about a marathon athlete's bathroom habits on a three day ascent. Just go run fast. Climbing, quite simply, isn't that simple. Time trials are about the worst evaluation of climbing imaginable.
I don't really encourage any measure. Not really a sport designed for competition. If I were to choose a measure though, I would suggest counting moves rather than time. How many movements does it take to finish a route? How far did you get before falling off or reversing course?
Strictly speaking, this metric is problematic too. Different routes favor different physiologies. Taller people tend to require fewer moves for instance. However, I imagine you could handicap accordingly. Time is not a good baseline standard though. You'd use time as a tie-breaker when other metrics aren't definitive.
16
@Andy I get the feeling you don't climb and haven't read into it. The Yosemite Decimal System sub-categorizes grades A through D, not A through Z. This has been the standard in the US for decades. People argue over the appropriateness of an A or a B rating for a climb because the difficulty of a climb is inherently subjective. There are no serious debates over the system itself.
To you other comments, climbing competitions have functioned well for decades. Time works quite well as a measure for speed climbing. And it also only factors into lead if competitors have fallen at the exact same spot in which case the person who reached it first would win. Thankfully doing a route in less moves makes no difference in someone's score, no matter if it's speed, bouldering, or lead.
18
@Matthew
Hyperbole for the point of illustration. I don't climb anymore. Family pursuits make climbing difficult. However, I've spent a good chunk of my professional career in the climbing industry. Hardware manufacturing specifically. I probably know more about it than you.
1
running type (text) over images is so detrimental to both. just another way to make haste.
7
Terrific story and great journalism. Indoor climbing has exploded in popularity. My college-aged son has made it his preferred pass time, largely replacing the skateboarding he did growing up. He loves the problem-solving, the workout (surprisingly cardio he tells me) and the socializing.
Adam is a great ambassador for the sport. It will be interesting to see how the Olympic community embraces climbing. Hopefully Adam’s star appeal will help the cause.
26
Speed Climbing is almost nonexistent in the world of climbing - professional, amateur, or casual. It can only be done in a gym that has a wall with a specific route. I'm a casual climber and have never seen a speed climbing course at any of the gyms I've been to. The IOC must really have its head in the sand in regards to this. Give medals to bouldering and lead!
89
@Peter How do you judge them? Speed climbing is easy to judge. The subjectively judged sports are notoriously frustrating, with shifting, seemingly arbitrary scoring systems. Are the routes also to be timed (then... it's speed climbing)? How do you ensure a somewhat level playing field? I just don't understand how this would work, but then, for me, climbing was always about individual accomplishment, not competition.
5
@Alex Bouldering and sport climbing competitions are scored objectively based on high-points obtained on pre-defined routes rather than "judged" as in sports like figure skating. Competition routes are generally difficult enough that the majority of competitors will not complete the majority of climbs within a timed competition period, so progress on climbs is graded instead and is scored cumulatively across the different competition routes. There are some added nuances, but these rules are published for competitors before competition starts and are not left up to subjectivity.
Generally speaking, world class climbing is a slow, methodical process with only short bursts of speed and power when required. "Speed" climbing on rehearsed climbing sequences is a different skillset entirely, and this format will exclude many of the world's top competitors.
59
Well, they don’t have a jump at the local ski run either. There are a few serious, tall gyms with speed walls around the country, including in the Midwest. Depends on the layout of the gym and the business plan.
2