36 Hours in Geneva

Sep 12, 2019 · 27 comments
Nathan (Hoboken)
Look Geneva is the Cleveland of Europe - everyone knows that. But that said, I have had my birthday at Bains des Pâquis many times and sat there with inexpensive but good wine and cold plates in the heat of the summer with friends, and taken a dip in the lake to cool off. It is one of my favorite places in the world.
twc (princeton nj)
No one has yet mentioned the International Museum of the Reformation which describes the work of John Calvin and the protestant Church of Geneva (more commonly known today by its former name, St. Pierre Cathedral).
twc (princeton nj)
After living in Geneva for six years when I was in high school back in the 1960's, I have a love/hate relationship with this place... a charming old town, a spectacular lake, some enjoyable food (filet de perche) and an interesting history... versus a restrained welcome, an overly officious bureaucracy, a pervasive militarism and an opportunistic banking community.
Singer (Ny)
You see the sky in the photo? It’s like that 9 days out of ten. Born there, lived there 10 years before moving to NYC. Here we have gorgeous bright blue skies. Over there, hardly ever. Depressing.
Harold (Prosser)
Having lived in Geneva for a year, I tend to agree with the other commenters who describe it as "unimpressive", etc. And of course "expensive". However, two points: Chez ma Cousine is definitely the restaurant to go to for good price, good food, and relaxed atmosphere. (Choose the Place de Bourg one.) And you should take the #18 tram out to CERN and visit this world-famous laboratory. They welcome visitors and offer tours.
Alejandro (Geneva)
i just read your article “36 Hours in Geneva”. Really execellent. Just one thing. This thing about nudism is not correct. People would be shocked to see someone walking naked in the Bains de paquis. I do not know how you got this idea. By the way, nudism in Eastern Europe, where it uses to be most popular, is receading.
MDCooks8 (West of the Hudson)
My experience in Montreux was very interesting about public nudity. I was there for the Jazz Festival in 1994 and while walking through the grounds of the hotel one afternoon I passed by 2 older women sunbathing in lounge chairs, which wasn’t unusual. But later when I passed by them again one of the woman, who was heavy set was fully nude and not really a pleasant sight. But my afternoon took a pleasant surprise not long after that experience while sitting at the side of the pool drinking a Heineken, when a young woman in her early twenties climbed out of the pool topless next to were I was sitting. No one gawked at her as she walked passed several teenagers horsing around the pool, then but on a bathrobe and went about her day. Montreux may not be Geneva, but nudists exist only an hour and a half away, at least on that day in July.
VS (Miami)
Geneva, where everyday is Sunday
Linda Maryanov (New York, New York)
Red Cross Museum. Quite moving........
Hoping For Better (Albany, NY)
I ended up going to Geneva twice. The first time was during the winter, and it was unimpressive. The only thing I liked about going there was the train ride from Grenoble through the snowy Alps. It was breathtaking. At the time, I was living in France, so it wasn't much time or financial commitment going there. I thought that perhaps it was because of winter I found it dull. The second time I went with my husband and our daughter. We went in July. Again, I was unimpressed. I don't feel the need to go back there or would recommend it.
Married to a Genevois (Not in Switzerland Anymore)
@Hoping For Better I lived there for some years and sadly agree with you! Once you cross the border into France voisine, everything changes and comes to life. Geneva is so static that the main attractions, as described in the article, haven't changed at all in 40 years. One very pleasant summer experience not mentioned: cruising the lake on the big commercial boats when the sun is shining. Very Swiss and a great way to see the region.
February (New York)
I’m with you on it. We drove through it and we’re going to explore the city a bit, but it looked so drab and uninteresting that we decided to continue onto our next destination.
Terrie (St. Louis)
The United Nations tour was fantastic.
Per Axel (Richmond)
I have visited frequently and it is a very comfortable city. It is also very multi-cultural. But like the rest of Switzerland, it is expensive. Sitting on the lake it is also very beautiful. But it still is a very quiet Swiss city. I would love to retire there. Or Zurich.
Discrete Pete (Las Vegas)
My wife and I were fortunate enough to live for four years in Carouge, Geneva from 2012 to 2016. We loved every minute of our stay except for the weather in February. Carouge has several good restaurants and at least four artisanal chocolate makers. You haven’t really had chocolate until you taste hand made chocolates from Carouge. Also, every Saturday there’s a market in the center of Carouge (in Place Marche) that’s well worth a visit. A small point concerning this otherwise very good article - Geneva sits on the shores of Lac Leman not on Lake Geneva.
aelstor (UK)
Try Cafe de Paris, on Rue de Mont Blanc. Only one thing on the menu- dressed salad followed by steak and fries. Well worth it! The horology Museum is very interesting and it is very close to the small Russian Orthodox Church. The Cathedral in the old town is alway worth a look and from its tower you can see the much of the old town. No mention of the tours round the UN Palais du Nations - a art deco wonder with some fantastic art work and sculptures. Head off to Montreux if your their in December for its Christmas market.
Telecom Industry Analyst (Boston)
@aelstor Strong second on Cafe de Paris. The steak is an entrecote, sliced thick and served family-style in a pool of an incredible (and secret) butter sauce. A carafe of the local Dole pairs perfectly. Coupe Danmark for dessert! Not to be missed at the Cathedral: down the side steps is an archaeological museum, showing, in situ, the history of the occupation of the site, from paleolithic times to the present. The walkway passes directly over ancient foundations and tiled floors. Amazing experience... surprising that this was not on the 36 hour tour. The World Intellectual Property Agency is (or at least used to be) open for lunch. The view from the top floor dining room is spectacular. The lobby floor, walls and fountain are a collage of stone from almost every country in the world. The Art Museum doesn't compare with some of its great European peers, but still worth a visit.
Wayne Cunningham (San Francisco)
Having visited Geneva frequently for work, I would say 36 hours is about right. It's notable that this article suggests getting out of town on Sunday, as there isn't too much to do in Geneva proper. For a more extended trip around Lake Geneva, consider also visiting Lausanne, Berne, and, of course, Mont Blanc.
Ed (New York)
I just returned from Geneva earlier this week. Even if it isn't stated explicitly in this article, you can read between the lines: this is an extremely forgettable European city. Sure, it's lovely. Sure, it's clean and its residents enjoy a high standard of living. But at the end of the day, it is a middling city that is absolutely lacking in compelling destinations. Oh, and the prices will make your eyes water.
Frances (San Rafael, CA)
I am an American that has a Swiss husband. I have visited Geneva twice but have failed to visit many of your suggestions. Thanks for pointing them out. I especially like the idea of viewing the City from Mont Saleve. Thank you for your tour.
Stéphane Garneau (Ottawa ON)
Hotels in Ferney-Voltaire on the French side are significantly cheaper. Public transit brings you from Ferney to downtown Geneva easily. The Saturday market in Ferney is where to shop for food. The market is open until early afternoon, it closes quite early. And there is a Carrefour in Ferney for another shopping option that is not available in Geneva.
MDCooks8 (West of the Hudson)
What I found amazing when first visiting Switzerland in 1994 were police patrolling the airport at Geneva armed with automatic machine guns. My thoughts of safety for the many foreign dignitaries seemed appropriate.
Telecom Industry Analyst (Boston)
@MDCooks8 I once flew in a day before an International Conference on the Future of Palestine. Talk about security... starting with the fastest descent and hottest landing I've ever experienced in years of commercial flying. Armored personnel carriers and machine guns next to the runway. Armed escort off the plane to the terminal and directly to a metal detector. Long lines at immigration. The man in front of me had an Egyptian passport, and the official was giving him a hard time. When I finally stepped up, he looked at the cover of my US passport, looked at me and waved me on. More soldiers with automatic weapons outside. I was on edge for the entire week.
MDCooks8 (West of the Hudson)
I do want to add that once the plane landed in Geneva, there weren’t any customs or security we had to pass through. This may have been because we were traveling through London from New York and went through customs at Heathrow.
MDCooks8 (West of the Hudson)
In addition, I experienced first hand about the precision of Swiss time tables and traveling by train. From the airport we boarded a train early to Montreux at the adjacent train terminal. Thinking I had time to use a restroom I told my traveling companion I would be right back, but more than 3 hours later, I found out that no sooner that I stepped off the train, the doors shut and the train left the terminal. I had to wait nearly 2 hours for the next train and when I finally arrived in Montreux an hour and half later, I learned of Swiss time.
Abby_ (Indiana)
I really enjoy these articles. I get to daydream and imagine being in these fun and exotic locations.
Anonymous (n/a)
Geneva is one of my favorite cities. In my opinion, the one place worth visiting above all else in town is Fondation Martin Bodmer, a library and very quiet, small museum hosting a private collection of manuscripts and precious editions of some of humankind's most important written works: https://fondationbodmer.ch And the place in itself is as magic as the collection it hosts: the site overlooks the lake from atop the beautiful neighborhood of Cologny, and the main building was remodeled by Mario Botta, an icon of Swiss architecture. Editor’s note: This comment has been anonymized in accordance with applicable law(s).