Drifting Through Puglia, Italy’s Heel

Polignano a Mare is an Instagram catfish.

Puglia horsebreeders have temperamental Murgese stallions, but the author found a breeder who has the skill to have bred a tempermental stallion, a grand effort.

A couple of decades ago. my wife and I "blundered" in to Puglia during a very long bicycle tour. It was one of the most pleasant accidents of our lives. We stayed in most of the towns already mentioned in the article and the other comments, plus some others that have not been mentioned. As the last paragraph of the article suggests, one needs a fair amount of time o fully appreciate the region. A interesting place not mentioned so far is the Gargano Promontory, where the Foresta d'Umbra and Monte San Angelo are located. It's a fascinating spot in a fascinating region.

I was in Puglia in early May as a part of an extended Italian work & play trip. It was easily the most surprisingly good part of my entire trip. The people were gregarious, the scenery was lovely, and the food and wine were both excellent. I second the need for independent transportation, but as a solo traveler, I rented a scooter and stuck to the back roads. Highly recommended.

My wife and I have relatives and friends in Tuscany and go to Italy quite often; however, as much as we enjoy Tuscany, I must say I find Puglia more interesting and more beautiful, though without the historical significance of the Tuscany region. Not bad to have 2 beautiful and interesting areas to discover and enjoy.

As Americans who just bought a house in a small town in southern Salento, its nice to see this. So many friends have said "where? Did you look in Tuscany or Umbria?" There aren't many Americans there and that's why we like it. As you mentioned. I'ts a big region with a lot of variety . The northern part is more verdant and the south is more desolate and rocky. Both coastlines are breathtaking ,Lecce is amazing, as is Gallipoli, Maglie, Galatina and many other little 15th, 16th and 17th century towns. There are also a lot of local artisans still producing the same things they have for years and years. However, people should understand it definitely isn't Tuscany , there's a fair amount of ugly, bad taste construction outside of the towns , and ,sadly centuries old olive trees are dying from a bacterial disease that no one seems to know what to do about. But It's a beautiful and unique part of Italy that is still very Italian , the people are wonderful ,the food is great, and we love it.

Puglia is where I am from (Molfetta to be exact). This article brought back memories of my childhood summers spent there with my Nonna and aunts, uncles and cousins. I returned last year after a 10 year gap and boy do I miss it. Can't wait to go back soon!!

Your best yet! We did Tuscany this month...hopefully Puglia next year. Your writing is inspiring to say the least. Keep up the great work!

I'm not sure that heading to the beach in Italy is the best way to spend your time. We have beaches here. When I'm in Puglia, after a nod to beautiful Lecce, I head for the smaller inland towns. One of my favorites is Locorotondo, a small city that is, indeed, laid out in a circle on a hill, with lovely white stone architecture, great restaurants and very few tourists. Come on St George's Day and join the festival fun. Oh, and you can rent a room in a trullo there, if you like.

I was hoping this region would stay secret. It's where my father was born and his father before him. I won't mention the town because it would be inundated with tourists. Food, weather, people perfect. Have been there only twice and loved every minute. Thank you for the article.

Biking through Puglia was perhaps my most memorable travel experience. Beautiful countryside, ancient olive trees, friendly people, few Americans, and fabulous food. Stay on the back roads and away from the cities. The masseria are wonderful places to stay. Drink the primitivo and feast on whatever is in season.

I loved my trip to Puglia! It was May and gorgeous with ripe cherries and blue skies. I second the need for a car. My sister and I stayed in a Airbnb trullo in small Monopoli, and a small B&B just outside the gates of old city Lecce. We did a day trip to Otranto, where we ate multiple gelati and toured the formidable castle (inspiration for the first Gothic novel.) We did another day trip to the magnificent Castel del Monte, built by Frederick II, and then swung by Andria (birthplace of burratta!) for a beautiful dinner at a random masseria. My sister ordered donkey; it was deliciously steaky and tender. As we drove we stopped wherever something looked interesting, including ruins on the seashore between Lecce and Otranto. For historical background as we drove, we also listened to Lars Brownsworth "Norman Centuries" podcast - I never thought of Normans as being in Italy! Lecce has the great Museum Faggiona (Times article: https://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/15/world/europe/centuries-of-italian-history-are-unearthed-in-quest-to-fix-toilet.html ) - a tour through the centuries within the walls of a single house. Puglia is comparatively inexpensive and uncrowded (especially after Amalfi coast!). I would go back in a heartbeat.

My husband & I spent 10 days in Lecce last September & loved exploring this often overlooked area of Bella Italia (we drove the coast from Vieste, the “spur” of Italy). Puglia’s towns & beaches are stunning; people warm & welcoming. Alberobello is magical, as is Matera (in neighboring Basilicata), home of the cave dwellers & this year’s EU cultural capital. Daily caffe Lecesse is a must!

The coastal towns north of Bari, for us they were Trani and Molfeta, are delightful. And a detour into Basilicata to stay for at least a night in Matera was a mind bending journey all its own.

This looks lovely! It's now on my list for our next trip! Thank you!

Pasticciotto are available stateside at Florentine’s Bakery in Utica, NY. There are actually two Italian bakeries next door to each other on Bleeker Street.

I look forward to these dispatches and appreciate Mr. Modak's thoughtful impressions and photos, as well as his candor. Very nicely done. Thanks.

Beautiful images in your writing. Must go !

Articles like this is the reason I subscribe.

I enjoyed your article about Puglia, but two recommendations to those that visit Lecce. Alvino makes very good pasticciotto, but for the tourists. Locals go to Danny's for the less sweet filling and coarser exterior, and you will not find any tourists there as you can enjoy a nice quiet breakfast. Finally, the food not to miss in Lecce is burrata. You can get many regional specialities for dinner at restaurants such as Nolo including the fava bean puree with braised chicory, and the burrata served there is soft on outside and melts in your mouth. You will never be able to eat the cheese they try to make in the States after tasting this. Many other local cheese producers in Lecce to buy burrata.

Cavallino: horsemeat. Having spent a lot of time in Puglia, I can say that's the only thing I don't like about it. Also the poverty of the cat population. They haven't discovered TNR (trap, neuter, release) yet, and my day can be easily spoiled by the sight of a starving kitten. Thanks for not giving up the secrets of any of the art treasures. They're extremely odd and special. Animal lovers, take heart: Puglia has lots of delicious vegetarian food, and fava e cicoria is vegan.

Orecchiette and rabe... yes. My wife's family are Italians, in Italy. We've traveled around Italy for 40 years as a part of every visit to see them. Puglia was the biggest surprise. I had always heard how poor and dusty it was. Not so much. Don't forget Manfredonia and the Gargano, the storybook forest.

and I hoped to hear about Brindisi, where I lived with my husband while he was stationed at a NATO facility. i remember the "passegiata" in the evening, the closing of shops for "pranzo" and reopening around 4. i remember the market in Commenda and the flowers and the marghera (pizza), sad for me that this travelog left out a place i remember with a lot of love.

Puglia perfect. Check out the gelato and a famous pastry called "titi di menache" which is an angel food cake filled with scrumptious white creme in the shape of a volcano, only in central Puglia.

having returned from a trip exploring the Basilicata area that included Puglia and the surrounding areas, here are a couple of tips: If you hate crowds, stay out of Alberobello and instead explore the beautiful hill towns of Ostuni and Locorotondo. You will find wonderful Trulli along the way without the maddening throng of tourists. When in Lecce, make sure you drift through the streets during the town's famous passeggiata that takes place nightly.

if you go back, go in the winter, when you are sure that the harvest is over, and visit Ostuni.this lovely village on a hill shines in white washed glory, and on a sunday afternoon the piazza may be filled w cape clad farmers, evoking another time. passing through narrow streets on smells the incense of charcoal braziers warming rooms. a gem.

“I barely scratched the surface...”. ...very true, and I thank Sebastian Modak for his article on Puglia. I am a regular visitor to Puglia, and one town that needs to be mentioned is Peschici,a gem,located on the outmost point on “that spur” that juts out into the Adriatic, a wonderful old town with superb beaches, authenticity is abound. Mid July weekend is especially interesting as the town celebrates the feast of Sant’Elia and music,events and fireworks abound.

If you go to Puglia don't miss Fasano and Ostuni. Venture a bit west and take in Gallipoli for lunch. And if you go to Alberobello, plan a stop in nearby Locorotondo, another trulli wonder of a town. Though not technically in Puglia, Matera in the nearby province of Basilicata and within reasonable driving distance, is a uniquely different experience.

I’m from Puglia!

That couple strolling down the idyllic alley look like displaced extras from a Breaking Bad set.