Someone needs to send this article to Trump.
Those horrid (and no doubt expensive) boxy suits he wears to cover up his ever expanding cheeseburger-fueled body look like they were made by Omar The Tent Maker.
Perhaps if he actually paid the tailors instead of trying to stiff them like he does everyone else who sells him anything, they wouldn't work so hard to make him look so awful.
No matter how horrid or evil he gets, every time I see a head to toe shot of him on TV or in the paper, I laugh.
12
Beautiful article, and what a symphony, a moving feast of photographs and informational snippets on these leading artists of tailoring. In this age of information, in this age of technology, in this age of computation, articles such as this remind of us of our humanity: an unhurried and artistic sensibility which ennobles our often dreary and depressed existence. These tailors are artists, but they are also beacons of hope: showing others that yes, it is possible to live out your dreams of artistry and make a living do so. For in this world, you either make your dreams come true, or the dreams of others come true. But very rarely, one can make their dream come true by making the dream of others come true. Indeed, the calling of the quality and talented tailor owning their own shop is a very high one, and a most marvelous one. For that, we are all indebted.
16
As a child, I had most of my clothes tailor made (late 50s-early 60s)..it was fun getting to see the tailors and seamstress going about the task--taking measurements, using pins, marking here and there, a treat (read-made were not readily available in my small hometown)... these tailors (maybe you should write an article about seamstresses--some of the best I know are drag queens) are keeping a tradition alive and an almost lost art alive, but who can afford the prices?
11
As the grandson of a bespoke tailor, I found myself smiling and nodding all through this piece. The photographs were delightful!
15
Great story. Rich history. I have vivid memories of my father visiting the home of an African American woman who made his leisure suits in the 1970s. I remember, too, my great grandmother, buying taking a pair of scissors to ready made clothing in an attempt to make something just right. I appreciate the knowledge of tailors, formal and informal ones. I recently took a dress I wore to my 30th reunion a few years ago. It was too small, but a piece of cloth from my late mother law's chest made it just right. The tailor was an Asian woman. I can stitch and have even made a handmade dress, but there's nothing like someone who has approached design and sewing on many fronts for need/pleasure.
5
My grandmother worked for a Boston tailor, and she taught me to sew. I get such a joy from working with beautiful fabric, and seek out antique linens, silks and wool to make garments for myself. Back in the day I sewed for my kids and other family. When I work with needle and thread I feel the spirit of my Grandmere moving through me.
19
For those who admire the dedication to detail and
skill in sewing and fitting exhibited on a daily basis,
I suggest looking for a dvd of a wonderful documentary film
Men of the Cloth by Vicki Vasilopoulos from 2014. The film tells the story of a devoted apprentice to master tailors within the Italian tradition who worry about who will continue their
lifelong work at the same high levels of imagination, customer care, and attention to detail.
20
I wished this article was longer, great article.
40
Yes to wider lapels, but I'm still a "No" on pleated pants.
15
If you want your expensive suit pants to look good be honest in your waist measurement, pants should not fit under your gut, and use suspenders not a belt.
Suspenders work equally well for the portly and the super skinny.
My husband, who is on the skinny side, likes to wear the kilt, so with a waist measurement equal to hip measurement suspenders were the only answer to the force of gravity. He liked the comfort and lack of restriction and now wears suspenders with all pants that also require a jacket.
15
I would need very few clothes if everything were made for me personally. It's a joy to keep wearing a garment that fits your own lines.
17
I nominate bespoke as word of the decade.
26
I went searching for the blouses Jane Fonda wears on "Grace and Frankie" and learned they were custom made just for her. So I wish I lived near Brooklyn. I would find these talented men and see if they would create some of their art for ME!
16
“I look at myself as an artist,” said Antonio Brown.
He's right. He is.
So are all these people who ply their trade by hand, crafting beautiful garments and objects with skill and love. I marvel at their talent.
38
I confidently predicted to my Millennial son that the the ultra tight, Thom Browne suits would become passé as the millennials aged and acquired, inevitably, the extra pounds of middle age. Men should embrace traditional styles that complement the male form, and resist the “fast fashion’ that women spend futilely to maintain.
21
Please do Manhattan next! These folks need business and we need top notch tailors.
14
What about all the women around the world who sew most clothes, at home and in the public, and get no credit and rarely get the appellation of “tailor?”
14
What lovely work! I wish I could afford to get my 6'4" husband a bespoke suit, off the rack just never flatters him.
He rarely wears suits, but I so wish I could get him one tailored just for him for special occasions.
7
My mother was a dressmaker, and I helped her as soon as I could thread a needle. When I was in high school we decided to learn how to tailor a suit jacket -- we learned from books. Very satisfying! Today it drives me out of my mind when I see people wearing coats and jackets and even skirts with the vents still tacked closed. Would it be wrong to stop and tell them they're supposed to open those before they wear them? Thank you for this beautiful and too short story.
28
@Michele Kellett tacked vents irk me from the first hints of a cool breeze in late September when the lightweight jackets start to make their appearance through to the last cold wisps of April when most of the wool coats get put away until next year. Don't get me started on exterior cuff labels still attached.
11
@Michele Kellett
Well, I pin my "tacked vent" closed (discreetly) with a safety pin because I like the very streamlined silhouette in my pencil skirts.
2
I look at Antonio Brown as an artist, too.
My grandmother worked for decades at larger retailer, as an upholsterer and drapery maker. But I didn't know until shortly before her death six years ago -- and only because I read her high school yearbook -- that she had aspired to be a modiste. Doesn't that sound dreamy? She had beautiful hands and worked so hard. From time to time she made garments for me when I was a child. Her life was not easy. I never learned to sew. Regrets...
15
I love this article - for me, it 's especially nice to see all the artists in their workshops. I also make custom clothing - (not tailoring - I specialize in leather) - and getting to know about others in the discipline just makes me happy! I am also happy to attest - like the tailors here, that awareness of appreciation for carefully crafted, handmade bespoke work is definitely growing.
11
Charming article, Mr. Leland and Mr. Speranza. Can't wait for the 'coffee table book' to come out!
4
I think the great Bill Cunningham would have been proud of this article.
Breath of fresh air.
50
What a joyful read! Well written and beautifully illustrated. How fitting! And speaking of fittings, I forwarded the article to my tailor.
18
I love making fine clothing. I've made a man's tuxedo and realized the difference between a seamstress and tailor. Since I have been interested in every aspect of tailoring. Now I am not stating that I have achieved a tailor's level but I do use some of the things that I have learned in well made garments for myself or people whom I love.
6
Thank you for this article! Very refreshing to know artist like these still exist.
14
In an era when cargo shorts and tee shirts seem to be the only fixtures in the wardrobes of most adult men, I take great pleasure in dressing for work. It took a few years, but between my Oxxfords and Hickeys, I always feel professional and at the top of my game when I leave the house in the morning wearing a bespoke suit.
One thing I've learned since moving from the Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia to the Chihuahuan desert of southwestern New Mexic is that even in 100 degree heat a fine Loro Piana wool suit retains its crisp look and keeps the wearer very comfortable.
Double-breasted, peaked lapes, pleated slacks. . .there's a reason people still love the 1940s.
41
@Blue Ridge Boy
If you are a guy, even minimal effort dressing and grooming will make you stand out. Doesn't have to be Hickey Freeman. A nice sweater and something other than athletic footwear will get you noticed.
18
Some people will criticize and say we should be talking about more important subjects. I say that this fits into a pattern our society has lost but could reclaim from what has gone wrong. Fewer possessions, made with care, by people one makes a connection with. The true value of an item. Craft, in the older sense of the word. Slowing down, making conscious decisions. A human connection. Expense moderating impulse. We can feel that we have reached a tipping point. If we survive it I believe we will turn back to these older ways. If we survive.
76
@Megan Grossman - with you Megan - 100%
7
I loved this article...just forwarded it to my son in hopes of sparking a sartorial interest! And kudos to Mr. Speranza for the excellent photography which complimented the story perfectly.
17
Thank you for this wonderful article amid a lot of grim news! As someone who has sewn all her life (since doll clothes at age 5), I appreciate well-constructed clothing. Also long for the days when people dressed SO MUCH better than they do today, generally--not bespoke but with care and variety determined by the social situation.
46
@Lucinda in NM. Just get on a plane of tourists headed for Caribbean resorts. Ugliness in spades. At 72 I make my own clothes. I use old clothes as patterns. Linen is to die for. My taste is all about the feel.
18
@Suzanne Wheat Yes, linen is wonderful. We can remember the same period when so many good fabrics were available for home sewing, at reasonable prices--often even cheap prices if you knew where to look. All the stores that had yardage and pattern counters. Wish I'd kept so many of my patterns. I, too, use old clothes as patterns, use the same designs again and again. Style is fun, but have to have the quality and fit.
7
@Suzanne Wheat
I adore linen. Couldn't agree more.
4
Great article and a nice escape from the horrific news of the day.
I would add that many men wear suits, and other clothes, that are too big. The sleeves of a suit jacket should allow for around 1/4-1/2 of an inch to show .
I definitely agree about the dry cleaning .
I would also advise people to wash dress shirts in cold water . The hot water the cleaners use can damage the fabric and shorten a shirts life span .
31
@Jay
You mean for 1/4-1/2 inch of SHIRT sleeve to show--right?
2
@Jay
For outstanding example of ill fitting suits, look no further that the current POTUS and the new UK Prime Minister.
20
I've always wondered how tailors get their start learning their trade skills. I know eventually it is through experience in the shop, but where did they get the skills to get them in the door? I've found general sewing classes for basics, but not much for tailoring specifically.
17
@Max
Many of these men seem to be immigrants who learned their skills in their countries of origin, or they are older men, born in the US who learned their skills from persons who had either immigrated here in the early 20th century, or had worked in their youth in one of the many NYC factories that manufactured mens' suits.
19
@Max, usually some combination of apprenticeship and cutting school (although these days cutting school would probably be something like a fashion institute). There's a really nice documentary, "Men of the Cloth" that covers the really rare world of bespoke tailoring and what it means today-- including a story of how a new tailor got started.
27
The School of the Art Institute has some advanced classes for non-degree students. Of course, they are not cheap.
9
What a blessed relief from the rest of today’s stories this article was. These talented men — these artists — continue the style of those who want garments made well, and properly, and take the time to do so. Long may they stitch!
97
@Sarah Rose
Great comment, I am listening to The Carpenters "We've Only Just Begun", while reading this article. Pure Bliss! While it is easy to romanticize their lives, these artists of tailoring are living a life of creation, while owning their own shops, which makes it easy to envy them! Our world needs more artists, oh how we need them! I just learned there is a 1 year academy on Savile Row which teaches young people the high art of tailoring. Now that is a school worth its cost!
6