When in Brazil, Just Follow the Music

I am tearing up with your article. You got it, glad that you got the essence and aura of Salvador-Bahia. When São Paulo and Rio had high numbers of criminality, people from Salvador was lay back and enjoying the pleasures of safety. My parents are in their early seventy and they still go out to dance forró. That is the essence of being baiano, a happy people. You can feel there when land at the airport and read their slogan: “Sorria, você está na Bahia”

Thanks for reminding me of my origins!! I miss it so much! Unparalleled food, culture and people.

I loved the observation that immersion in an African cultural setting can rewire one's brain. I find this true as well as the rampant individualism within me is replaced by communal wellbeing and collective fulfillment.

Salvador da Bahia is an amazing city, despite its problems. Is there any perfect city? It is full of culture, life and music. Don't forget the 365 churches, including the one built for and by slaves. The restaurant run by the cooking school. So much to do and see and eat. And yes the people make the experience so special. Their warmth is extraordinary.

Respectfully in respect of the "The Pelourinho" comment in the list here... many Brazilian speakers of English will say "the Pelourinho", following the way it's said in Portuguese. Most native English speakers however will leave off the article, per Mr. Modak's usage.

FYI the Pelourinho is never called "Pelourinho." It's always "The Pelourinho." One would never say "We're going to Pelourinho." Rather, it's "We're going to the Pelourinho." Or, "Estamos vai ir o Pelourinho."

Although I enjoyed reading this interesting piece, I was stunned by the hypocrisy by the NYtimes. On one day, I am reading your articles on how much ice melts after every single flight. The next day, you send someone week after week after week to other distant places around the world. Have you ever thought about the consequences of this fun trip? Maybe human beings have to accept that we are not entitled to see the whole world in order to save our planet.

I’ve been going to Salvador for 22 years. I am still beguiled by the warmth of the people, the sea, and for sure the music, and dance. I now have an apartment 1 block from Porto do Barra beach you describe, and spend much of my winters there. Overall the article was nicely done, great insights, and you describe a museum I have not visited. I do think while making connections can be particularly difficult where one doesn’t know the language, I’ve never met warmer, friendlier people ready to have a drink, a dance, or play a song. Every trip I look forward to making a new friend to chat with on WhatsApp, and Instagram, Yes, there’s certainly crime, I’ve never experienced a problem during my visits, I am also on the lookout for druggies here on 8th avenue in Chelsea. Wish I could make more connections here in NYC. When getting on the elevator in my Manhattan building, my down the hall neighbor, since 2011, stares at her cell phone rather then making human contact with me. Not the Bahan way thank god!

I am Yoruba from Nigeria and one of our most popular dishes usually eaten at breakfast or an afternoon snack is Akara which like its Brazilian child is fried bean cake but doesn’t have the shrimp filling that you describe. Both Santeria and Candoble are progeny of Yoruba religion. Salvador is very high on my travel list.

It sounds like a fascinating city, and I enjoyed the many detailed observations here. One point that Mr. Modak mentions: "I was aided, however, by a network of friends of friends who provided much-needed advice on where to go (and where not to go) and by the fact that, for the first time this year, I wasn’t traveling alone." Being more explicit would be helpful here. Where exactly should we avoid? Is the bulk of the city a no-go zone? Does street crime happen in the day or just at night? I admit, the threat of crime is the main thing that keeps me from considering Brazil, but I may just be overly cautious.

I am originally from Salvador and loved the article. Funny that it was published on July second, the day Bahia celebrate it's independence.