Lovely piece. A unique take on Paris. Makes me miss France.
11
It's possible to make another circular route around the center of the city.
In 1860, Paris annexed its suburbs. Those suburbs are now, more-or-less, Arrondissements 12-20, lying between the pre-1860 city and Boulevard Périphérique. They make a different, shorter loop that many people would find more appealing then the present suburbs.
13
Lovely piece, interestingly written. A little reminiscent of Eric Newby's approach (you should be flattered....).
All the usual spots in Paris are now so overcrowded that they are best avoided. Next time I'm there I will follow a couple of these leads and I think I eill profit from doing so. Many thanks for sharing.
7
Thank you for highlighting Basilique St Denis' spectacle beauty ! ... so many....Parisians have never visited it
13
"Paris! Je reviens!"
5
I wish the author had provided a map showing his daily routes.
40
What the writer fails to mention when describing the Cathedrale de Saint-Denis is that this great structure represents the birth of one of the finest forms of architecture in history: the Gothic Cathedral. This is where the Medieval builders struggled to turn walls of stone into walls of glass. Walk into any of the great Gothic cathedrals, Notre Dame, Chartres, see the light flooding in from the huge stained glass windows, and you are seeing the legacy of Saint-Denis.
42
Wine at lunch is never a mistake, especially in Paris.
39
A wonderful alternative to walking is getting off the beaten path on a bike.
9
I have questions for the author-if he is looking at these. First off- thank you. One of the best reads I have read in the travel section for a while. Never for once been interested in going to Paris as an adult until reading this.
1. I do not speak a lick of French. Only English and Spanish. Could I do something like this?
2. Is this "route", do you think, safe for women? I generally like to travel my myself. Do you think I could get away with walking the outskirts and such alone?
Thanks, if you read this. What a lovely read.
15
@deirdre mahoney
I lived in Paris for 20 years, both ‘intramuros’ and out in the ‘banlieue’. You can certainly walk the outskirts alone during the day (but please remain alert as you would in any city), but I’d avoid Saint Denis in the evening at least. Bon courage as the French would say!
14
@deirdre mahoney
Absolutely! I'm in my 70's and have done much of it. I've done some of it alone, but it is more fun with someone to share the wonderful sites you will see.
8
@deirdre mahoney
1) This is an adventure for people who are tired of the center of Paris. Go there first. It's not all the Champs Elysees, by a long shot.
2) Almost everyone I've ever met in Paris has spoken some English. With 24 years of the Eurostar, it's practically bilingual.
8
A nice and refreshingly frank of what clearly is a mixed bag. Must find a chance to do much of this myself (I'll skip the dreary stretches, thank you - I already live in LA).
But it might have been nice to make it clear that there are no kings left in St. Denis - the Revolutionaries dug them all up.
6
Nothing beats walking for discovering the true essence of a city, any city, be it famous, infamous or even supposedly boring. Being on the periphery of the periphery, if only for a day, adds a surprising, enlightening dimension to every trip you take. It's like visiting two places at the same time and only seeing half of the tourists!
Plus, here's a tip for those with no upcoming travel plans: Visit the places you've never been to that just happen to be in your own hometown. A whole new world awaits you ...
20
I didn’t want this to end! I only recently went to Paris for the first time and fell madly in love. As someone who lives in a part of NYC often overlooked by tourists and visitors (Astoria, Queens) I’m eager to go back and explore the fringes of this remarkable city.
11
I miss the 13th Ar. almost every day after staying there this past Spring with family from SW France. I miss the many cultures while riding the Metro, or trams, or just walking around. I didn't know Le Corbusier's architecture was there or I would've made a point in seeing it. I miss the Asian supermarket, and the Asian restaurants where we ate every night. The 13th Ar. is a treat to embrace.
4
Ah, Paris, I remember it well.
http://members.efn.org/~hkrieger/hk053a.jpg
2
Very interesting and informative read, thanks. We have been to Paris several times but have yet to venture out of the core Arrondissiments. Maybe next time...
5
I admit it. Last year when I took my first trip to Paris I started out with the attitude of "OK, another check off the bucket list."
Instead I fell madly, deeply in love. On foot is the only way to experience Paris, and I deliberately stayed off the beaten tourist track for the most part, but eleven days didn't begin to give me enough time. I am going back in the spring, and most likely will take this article with me. One of the joys of Paris is finding its hidden treasures, and now I have even more places to discover and explore! Thanks David!
23
Delighted to see that on the first day lunch was had at the brasserie La Pelouse in the 19th which is just on the corner rue Crimée and rue Botzaris. Alas only a winesoaked eye would fail to notice across the street the Botzaris entrance to the world´s most luscious romantic English style park, the marvellously beautiful Buttes Chaumont. Its well kept grand sloping lawns (the pelouse)are perfect for picknicking and relaxing during the warm months. Easy to reach with metro and bus. Has an extraordinary artificial lake, waterfall, grotto, island with a tiny temple on top. Magic!!
11
@suedoise
Yes Buttes Chaumont was one of my favorite haunts during my 20 years in Paris, when I lived both ‘intramuros’ and in different parts of the banlieue.
5
Thank you David for writing about the lesser known neighborhoods beyond the périphérique of Paris. After living here for almost 20 years, I never fail to be enchanted by the most beautiful city on earth!
Some of the seediest streets within the city boundaries are still full of the charm of old Paris, so it is not always necessary to venture beyond.
However, the bordering banlieues de Paris can offer another dimension to the seasoned tourist, although I would not reccomend visiting those in the Seine Saint Denis department at night.
13
Hubby (72) and I (69) did Stockholm, 14 days, 112 miles, staying at a 4th floor walk up, no blistered toes but sometimes the knee would hurt. Walking is the best way to experience a city, that and a good subway pass.
16
Thank you for this lovely article about my favorite city. I am always looking for something different to do when I visit this amazing place. You have made this armchair-tourist very happy indeedf!
10
I went to see bowie is...……. at the philaharmonie not very long before he died.
seems to me the government tries to encourage visitors to the outer arrondissements by building something which will bring visitors.
also, I believe st denis is where the gothic style started--encouraged by bishop suger whose likeness was engraved into a wall there.
I retain a strong memory of the stained glass dappling off the walls.
French royalties' remains were desecrated during and after the French revolution, If I remember correctly.
just returned yesterday from my 24th visit to france/the city of light yesterday.
the city was glorious with nary a cloud in the sky for the first 10 days of an 11 day stay.
7
My brother and I did a somewhat similar jaunt back in 1987. We had just finished a three month bike ride around Europe and had a week to kill in Paris. Each day we'd hop on the metro, near La Defense, and ride into Paris and branch out to the outer reaches from there. We'd head back towards the center of the city with only a Michelin map of Paris to guide us. No guide books to tell us where to eat or what to see. Everything was happen chance. A nice adventure.
15
Thank you for a beautifully written article. When I visit Paris next time, I will remember your recommendations, for the neighborhoods off-the-beaten-path.
5
I am from Paris.It is always fun to read a romanticized version of my home town by an american journalist who walked around one week and stopped by some forgotten landmarks outside the Periph between 2 lunches “ bien arrosés “. He carefully omitted to tell you Porte de Clignancourt and its pickpockets and drug dealing in the african market towards Saint-Ouen, Porte de La Chapelle where the mayor officially announced it is dangerous for women to walk there,next to it is La Colline du Crack that the police cannot clean up, the 1500 migrants of the” Campement du Millenaire “ Porte de La Villette, the other one along Canal Saint-Denis in the 19 th where the author went.....And you certainly do not want to try Montreuil by night.....nor the “93” and its HLM. The police does not try either. This is my real Paris. And it is more fun with the strikes and demonstrations too!
46
@hiflo I have been visiting Paris yearly for the past 40 years. I have been to the Outskirts a few times. Like any City, Paris has its questionable spots; however, I was intrigued with this article since there are parts that could be very interesting. Given that, I will probably stick with the City I know and love. Paris is a melting pot and has all the problems NYC has, but the bottom line is Paris is Paris and cannot be compared to any other City. It is as good as it gets on this Planet.
27
@hiflo I'm an American in Paris, such a cliché, I know. I've lived here for more than 26 years and though not every day is a holiday, it saddens me to read your portrayal of "your real Paris." Equally sad is to think that when your lunches are " bien arrosés ", you must see your glass as half empty. Why not take a look at some of the comments below (e.g., @malcomrabbit, @johnkplumb, @etfmaven, @manfredmarcus ...). You might find another perspective ... and realize your glass is half full. Santé !
34
@hiflo Thank you for the post. Many others maintain Paris is just a large city with the same problems endemic to such but I think Paris differs largely due to the fact that nearly all your points of danger and rampant theft have come about relatively recently and entirely by the force of virtue signaling politicians. Further, demographics are destiny. Anyone whose view of history extends past their immediate surroundings will understand, with absolute certainty, the tragic and wholly avoidable future for the City of Light.
3
Last winter I did a similar walk through Boulogne Billancourt, mostly with the goal of visiting Pont de Sèvres - the birthplace of Booba (one of France’s most popular rappers). I ended up stumbling upon the Chateau de Saint Cloud which was beautiful as well as La Seine Musicale. Highly recommend visiting this area when in Paris.
3
“The City of Light” was built on top of one of the largest known mass graveyards in all of Europe. Galling stuff, right?
1
@ubique
Nice pun.
5
@ubique I don't think Paris needs you to return.
4
@ubique What?
Paris was originally swampland (as were Rome and London). What graveyard are you referring to?
1
God thing you skipped the Louve. I was pickpocket there 10 years ago and the guards as much as said “ tourists beware! We did walk around Montparnasse though and visited Napoleons Tomb. Wonderful city despite
The nuisance criminals about.
3
@Moe Def
always gotta be on the lookout for pick pocketers and petty thieves (they are rarely prosecuted in Paris, which is why it's so prevalent)...I always warn tourists when I run into obvious ones in certain locations to play it safe. I've watched these guys operate in touristy areas, it's way too easy.
9
I too was pickpocketed outside the Louve on one of the days the museum stays open at night during my visit 2 years ago. Exhausted and parched after walking nearly 10 miles that day, I made the mistake of buying a bottled water from a ‘vendor’ in the Louvre courtyard who was probably working in concert with the thieves. It was my fault really, as I hadn’t done my homework prior to the trip to safeguard my wallet. I also kept everything together and lost all my IDs as well as credit cards and cash, and had to delay my return trip home by a day to get an appointment at the embassy for a replacement. I have relatives that have lived in Paris 2 years, and I thought they would warn me, but they hadn’t. While I adored Paris, I had no false illusions. It is a large city with problems inherent to large cities and its own unique issues. I traveled alone and witnessed quite a few things that confirmed as such. It endeared me more to the city to know it is not perfect and is a mix of brutal and beautiful — a “full catastrophe” as it were, to borrow from Zorba. I would return on a moment’s notice! I did end up getting my items back, amazingly, a few months later because I filed a police report the following day. Vive le Gendarmerie!
11
@Moe Def In my experience pants with zippered security pockets do a pretty good job discouraging pickpockets, both in the USA and elsewhere. I recommend them.
4
great article. I moved from a very hip Los Angeles neighborhood to the outer Paris suburbs three years ago and, although I was a bit disappointed at not being able to live inside the perepherique, it's been a pleasure and I get to see more of the Paris region than I normally would (and spend plenty of time in center town).
Where else can I live with a nobleman's modest 19th century chateau I see from my apartment, a view of Tour Montparnasse, and the the southern hills of the French countryside -- all 15 miles from the center of town (to a Parisian, that is really, really far apparently). It's also a joy to bike around and randomly run into old world war forts and trails that have Louis XIV's insignia randomly engraved on rocks around.
19
Enjoyed this article. My wife and I made our first trip to Paris back in late March—-we loved every minute of it. Being in our seventies we walked almost 25 miles over a four day visit and were impressed by the architecture ,the world famous museums, the bakeries and most of all the people. Thank you for writing this piece.
16
My husband and I did something similar about 20 years ago. We picked up a guidebook to 20th Century buildings around Paris at the Louvre bookstore. It was French on one page and English on the facing page. It had the Metro stop and then a small map to the destination.
Worked like a charm and as Mr. McAninch notes, that's where much of the new stuff is for rather obvious reasons. What a revelation and joy. Fabulous architecture and a beautiful portrait of a city that self-consciously pursues improvement decade after decade.
Best of all, it got us to places and neighborhoods I never, ever would have gone to otherwise.
However you get out from the center, do it. I plan on following Mr. McAninch's path on my next trip.
9
Ah, how this piece brings back visions of Paris. I think that last year I too ate in the same sushi place during my month it the Porte Doree neighborhood. I'm surprised that Mr. McAninch failed to mention the parc Vincennes which is a block or two from his hotel. While I have not walked the peripherique, I've ridden the urban train. There is so much more to Paris than the downtown museums.
8
Lovely trip sir; next time, please allow me to be a participant...without the pain of rushing things (six days!) in such a distinguished city. A month would do just fine, thank you very much... sans the blisters.
6
I’m reading this on my iPad in my hotel in Colmar. I scheduled 3 days in Paris - a city I’ve visited a bunch of times - for the end of this trip, but with no plans. Until now. C’est parti!
12
@CW Did you pay a visit to the Unterlinden Museum in Colmar? The Isenheim Altarpiece is incredible!
8
Thank you for this article, which brings forward the very reason my wife and I have been annual visitors there for some 20 years now. It's a city that defies complete description, and without attempting to sound too grandiose, it's a magnificent city full of hidden and not-so-hidden treasures. It would take a lifetime to ever investigate all it holds, not too surprising since it has been in existence ever since the ancient Parisii tribe lived there on the Île-de-la-Cité and the Romans took over. It's too bad that entire parts of the city have become unaffordable for normal people, because it certainly is a city not just for the rich. Catch the TGV high-speed train to be almost anywhere in France within a few hours, and use the metro for endless exploration within the city itself. And be surprised to find the kindness and open-heartedness of many of its citizens which we have experienced from so many people over these years. Make an attempt to be kind, and you will generally find the effort returned in spades. From Clovis to Macron, find history in the open, ready for your interaction. Vive la France.
42
@Ray. It’s only been 5 years for me but I feel the same magic that you describe. The architecture, the people, the endless neighborhoods in all directions, it’s a real joy!
6
@Ray Descendant of Vikings that I am, it did not take long for me to understand why the Vikings gave up Paris in 845. True they returned twice but could the Paris winters drove them away. Used to the sunny dry cold of Scandinavian winters the Vikings just about froze to death in the humidity of Paris grey winter fogs even if temperatures rarely go below freezing. At least this is my firm belief knowing those horrors since 25 years.But leaving Paris - ah non jamais!
2
It has been fifty years since I've walked the streets of Paris. One plan any tourist any place should make is to walk. Walking is the only way to really know a city and its people. I am glad I did it when I was young, now at age 75 a block or two would be max. Paris is a magical city I'm sure 50 years ago more so. Excellent article.
21
As a former Paris-lover who did much amateur "travel writing" (contradiction in terms?) =D and photography in Paris for years:
I salute you. This was incredibly interesting, informative, revealing, inspirational,
and I will be taking this excellent article with me next fall as a travel guide when I return to Paris for the first time in 14 years.
Outstanding!
8
A good piece. The master of this genre is Iain Sinclair who has walked the London ring road (London Orbital) and is credited with being one of the founders of psychogeography. The Invention of Paris by Eric Hazan is also terrific. I share his view that the real energy is on the outskirts. Beautiful though Paris is, it has lost much of its flavor. Marly le Roi has the ruin/ skeleton of Louis XIV summer place and an incredible 18th Century fantasy garden, the Desert de Retz. I photographed all this stuff 40 years ago when it was truly obscure.
10
@Geoffrey James
I would be very interested to see some of your photos. I am fascinated by the banlieue and their transformation.
3
The expansion of the Paris Métro will make excursions as described in this article to the banlieues much easier. See https://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/2016/03/tying-paris-back-to....
6
Loved this. Next time you go, call me:)
8
I lived at Porte Dorée for 15 years and can attest to the breadth, depth, and richness of Parisian life along and just beyond its periphery. Bravo to David for making this effort and chronicling what he found. Obviously, he didn’t write about everything of interest that can be found in such a walk. The article is designed to give readers a taste (sometimes literally) of what life just outside the inner-Paris periphery has to offer. As such, it works – by the comments, many readers are now encouraged to explore beyond what central Paris has always offered. That can only be a good thing, for the peripatetic amongst us, and for Paris itself.
12
What an informative and inspirational article. I've been to Paris many times but I have never taken this journey. I now have something to aspire to! Thank you for sharing this with us.
7
If you love street art as my husband and I do, don’t skip Bagnolet.
Can’t wait for our next trip to Paris. Thanks for a great article.
2
Don't dismiss Bagnolet and its street art:
https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&biw=1024&...
2
Inspired me to get out and see the outer suburbs...I've long wanted to see St. Denis, but now I'll add the Louis Vuitton and the Jean Nouvel
5
I like walking in Paris. It's nice.
6
Thanks.
I am ready for this.
3
A nice article that reminded me my own jogging experience in Paris a few years back. I spent 3 months there from April to July, and logged in 600 km on Parisian streets. A truly magic city. Too bad my French is bad, but Parisians these days do not repel English as they used to.
8
All the French you need to unlock the heart of any Parisian is ‘Bonjour’... this simple salutation goes a long way and must be employed whenever one enters a restaurant, boutique, etc. It’s straightforward politeness, and most Americans do not employ it nearly as much as they should, especially when abroad!
16
@Anne Sanger Indeed "Bonjour" !! Also add a Madame /Monsieur to it just as this addition goes well also when saying "Merci" and "Excusez-moi" and "Pardon" over and over and serving it all with as much an apologetic smile as you can muster.
4
The Philharmonie as architecture was certainly impressive as we approached. The interior space was just that - interior space without warmth or welcome. So cold to the eye.
But, then, one is there for the music and the concert hall does not disappoint. It is one of the acoustically finest you will fine.
Daniel Barenboim, conducted both Boulez and Stravinsky and it was magnificent. The space brings you to the music, to the players, and to the conductor in a setting where the audience is never far from the stage.
Less time on Tuna avec fleurs, a dish seen and served....everywhere. Been there. Done that. I wish David McAninch had stayed for the music at the Philharmonie and not just his look/see on walks around the periphery.
2
@miriam summ
I attended that Barenboim concert too. The Boulez was not to my taste musically, but the visuals were a delight. I smiled all the way through.
2
@miriam summ He did stay; he said that he attended a concert by the Paris Orchestra (Orchestre de Paris).
3
I recommend this approach in almost any city. Sometimes all it takes is to walk a few blocks away from the tourist area to discover a whole 'nother world.
Pick a destination and start heading there. Even if you never reach it, you will have a day full of adventures, including interacting with many locals.
7
@Jimmy Gottlieb. You are so right. My wife and I are in our 70's and typically do 5 miles a day when traveling in the US or other countries. Turn here, walk a few blocks, stop for lunch, turn there...stop in a museum, take some pictures, continue until dinnertime. Our favorite way to travel anywhere. Our idea of camping is a hotel without room service (old joke). Cheers.
1
A wonderful article! My favorite places to visit in Paris are the little advertised historical macabre sites of assassinations, either successful or attempted, public executions in the days past, and the sites of "guillotinage". Then, when one is tired of walking, one always finds a place to rest in a cafe with an outdoor terrace, where one can recover one's strength by smoking a good cigar accompanied by strong coffee. A very civilized urban atmosphere.
6
@Tuvw Xyz You should check out the Police Museum in the 5th arrondissement commissariat. They have a real guillotine blade and some great magazine covers from the 1800s. Oh, and it's free!
3
Memories of a similar 2 day walk about in 1976 on weekend after Thanksgiving before we moved to Hauts de Seine ( St Cloud) from Rhode Island. Cafes in Boulonge were a stopping place for croissant and cafe serrez on way to visit my wife and elder son born at Clinique Belvedere.
4
Thank you for the wonderful stroll through the neighborhoods, the unsung and the surprising outer Paris. I was experiencing it first-hand as I read; felt vicariously reinvigorated, as if I were there, expectant for what was around the next corner too. You gave some appreciative backstories and colored the scenes so well! Best of all, you inspired me to visit the less tourist-ed and rediscover the joys of ambling travel.
11
The Basilica of St. Denis (next to a large mall which seems more of a modern souk) is the brain child of Abbot Suger who wrote several books on the topic, and the first Gothic church in Europe with very special and early stained glass windows (c. 1135-40) IMO -- the most beautiful of the Gothic stained glass. (Basilica designates a building form; cathedral designates a function.) IMO a must see.
20
@Make America Sanewhen I was there there was a very interesting group of charts about the role of St Denis as the center of a group of churches and their businesses.
The town itself is interesting from various points of view.
And you can get there by Metro or RER. If you like old bones the catacombs are closer.
I couldn’t tell if the writer can read any of the local signage.
A very Bourgeois-Western-Parisian’s view take on the “Petite Couronne”. In jumping to Montreuil, you skipped Saint-Mandé and Vincennes’ Castle (which predates The Louvres as the King’s castle and used to be Louis XIV’s residence) and disregard the historical trench that the périphérique remains: a no man’s land IN FRONT of the fortifications that surrounded Paris until the late 40s. Sorry to say that you should really take an (electric) bike ride next time ;) Loved the writing though! (A real treat)
19
10 million people in a 35- mile long perimeter? san francisco, as is well-known, is 49 miles around and holds about 800,000. paris must be pretty jam-packed. que veux dire en francais?
2
@cherry elliott As the author states, most of the 10 million live in the suburbs OUTSIDE the periphery.
‘Serrés comme des sardines’ (packed like sardines in a tin)
4
@cherry elliott
The peripherique encompasses Paris proper which has a population of only 2 million. Areas outside of peripherique are considered banlieue or suburbs.
5
Thank you for this article. It made me want to go to Paris again, which I have not done for a very very long time. I can use the article's cited points of interest as a planning document!
11
What a wonderful article! Paris is like an onion—layer upon layer of fascinating things, places, people to discover beyond the usual. My passion for this magnificent city led me to found my own travel adventure, Paris Off Script, in order to share my explorations with others who enjoy travel as cultural engagement rather than tourism. In two days I leave again for a five-week sojourn, one of several I make each year. I look forward to following in the author's footsteps. Thank you, David McAninch, for this lovely piece extolling the beauty in all its forms and enrichment of Paris insolite (unusual).
16
October 22/18
Really enjoyed this article. Recently did a similar kind of journey in Montreal Canada. Walked around the city visiting regular neighbourhoods it is a spectacular city as is Paris. Good to get away from the tourist areas and see the real fabric of a city.
12
Great article but 6 miles (10 km) a day is no big deal.
3
@PaulN: While I backpack between 15 and 20 miles a day, there is so much to see and experience in Paris that to me, 6 miles is a realistic day's walk.
2
Ah, so creatively cool! I am now looking forward to a review of the most mediocre restaurants in Paris, with, hopefully, recommendations for the least interesting plonks one can purchase in 1L plastic bottles in the areas featured in this journey around Paris.
3
Beautifully and thoughtfully written. I loved this article.
12
@Josephine beautiful words indeed!
But dishing Gehry's masterpiece in Paris as soulless and seeing the Houston skyline in Paris smells of snobbery to me. Louis Vuitton is not the best building Gehry gave the world, hard to beat the Symphony Hall in his native Los Angeles, but one has to be made of stone to remain unmoved.
I go to Paris often and I can assure you there is a lot more off the beaten path in Paris than was discovered here.
9
Reading this about five days after returning from a month in Paris devoted mostly to all inside the "Periph" (and a few excursions outside, e.g., Normandy). Now it looks like we'll have to go back, post-haste.
6
This article needs an accompanying photo feature! Great writing.
36
@AndrewE
Brilliant! Yes Please.
4
Would love a photo journal of the trip.
22
This sounds like my kind of trip!
3
Regarding the lunch photo; are the flowers just garnish, or is one supposed to eat them to believe he had a full meal?
3
Evokes intense nostalgia and memories of my own weekend walks around the city during my student days in 1958-59 (yes, that long ago, feels like my previous birth) limited to the areas well within the present day Peripherique except for the daily travel from Pont de Nueilly by bus (number 258) to school near Malmaison. I enjoyed vicariously the author’s peregrinations to the places I remember only vaguely. Many thanks.
4
I love the idea of finding nearly empty, wonderfully interesting places to explore.
Is this journey something an unaccompanied woman could do safely?
Was monsieur alone on this trip?
When I travel to a new town here in the US, I always want to see a museum, a grocery store and the public library.
I think a lot of people reading this would want to attempt such a trip around the periphery of their own city, if there is one!
4
@DesertFlowerLV
Having traveled and often preferring to travel as a single woman most of my 73 years (other people can really be a burden), Paris is IMO as safe as it gets. In my dotage I discovered the cane/ walking stick. Once knees were done I no longer needed the cane, but I find it can be a useful item to have with one (good esp. for stairs with no railing); and it has the potential of serving up a wallop if one is unduly disturbed! (IMO -- plan your wardrobe so that you blend in/disappear.)
27
@DesertFlowerLV I photographed the article thus did the same tour as the journalist. I felt completely safe but the only thing I would advise perhaps not to hang out in Saint Denis late in the evening, outside of the city center. I hope you do get to do this trip someday as I really enjoyed discovering these places myself.
10
After living in Paris for almost two decades and now living in Vegas, I think what I miss most is just being able to walk to get someplace, and not only that, being able to criss cross the city alone as a single woman even at 3am. So yes, I feel it's safe if you take the same precautions as anywhere. To do this kind of walk, I would definitely do it alone unless you are with someone who is open to stopping and veering off course endlessly according to fancy and whatever you discover that looks interesting. I loved this article and think I'll have to plan a trip back soon!
8
Thanks for the article; will be in Paris, end of December, and this is great.
1
@Robert, be sure to dress warmly because it will be very cold and damp! During my 20 years there, I always wore a hat, too – practically year-round, in fact.
Is there a name yet for that ridiculous architectural style started by Frank Gehry, in which every building looks like a crumpled beer can? I hope Paris stops with the Philharmonic building.
25
@Horace
Some prefer Trump's towers that I find hideous. The old adage it is in the eye of the beholder is so true.
I, on the other hand, hope Paris stops the bland soulless architecture that plagues most modern cities.
8
@Horace
When in doubt, try post-modern. Good question.
2
My favorite part of the museum says the reporter, "I found both visually arresting and strangely soulless, ended up being the roof deck, where I peered past Gehry’s sail-like glass-and-steel panels at the Bois de Boulogne’s ocean of trees, the Eiffel Tower and La Défense, which from this vantage point looked for all the world like the skyline of Houston." May I suggest the strange soullessness is in the eyes of the beholder who may see Houston everywhere.
My favorite part was approaching from the Bois de Boulogne’s ocean of trees on foot and encountering the little metal markers to alert the cane of the blind and lead them to the door of this soulful building. I found this detail reflecting the architect's deep empathy for all people experiencing the building genuinely moving. While the building is a waterfall of light for the sighted, it is still welcoming and accommodating to the sightless. There is much that escaped the reporter's flourish for beautiful words.
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@Eli
Houston's glory IS its trees...and it's bayous...and marvelous museums, and very fine mix of high and low art and cuisine....lots of food from Indian to Maine...it is a terrific town, by the way and, yes, looks a lot like the view from the top of the symphony.
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@Eli
Ok Eli, got it ... you’re more hip than anyone else. Now rest on your laurels.
Fantastic article.
@Ron Word. Also a Paris lover, and loved the article. There are weekly Chopin Concerts in the the Bois de B, near (or sometimes in) the Orangerie beginning in May. Incredible experience. If you've got the stamina, you can do the museum and a concert that evening.
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What tombs there are of French monarchs at St. Denis are well worth seeing (though there are not "hundreds"); but their bodies are not there as they were removed and placed in a common grave during the Revolution. My favorite is Francois I's double-decker with him and his Queen kneeling on top dressed in finery and depicted on the lower level as rotting corpses.
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@JsBx. A fixture of art history 101.
@JsBx Actually the bodies are there too. The mass graves where they had been thrown during the French Revolution were opened in 1819, and all the bones that were found were transported in an ossuary inside the basilica (behind the choir).
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A gentle suggestion to the commenters asking for an accompanying map:
Go to Google Maps "My Maps":
https://mymaps.google.com/
Click "Create a map"
Copy any descriptions or names you see in this article and paste them one by one into your map in the search bar, for example Porte Dorée, La Cité de Refuge, Canal de l’Ourcq, and so on, and save the places you find, neighborhoods, streets, cafes, anything that catches your eye.
Et voila. Now you have your own map of spots just outside the Périphérique, loosely based on the article.
Self-service, to be sure, but at least it's still less effort than actually walking to all the areas on foot.
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@Jeo
You're awesome, thank you for taking the time to
show us how we can use a map along with this article!
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love the photos, too, and see that they're credited to joann pai. makes me wonder if she was on foot w/ mr. mcaninch or if she met up w/ him at appointed times.
and, similar to other commenters, would be grateful to see a map of the author's route amended to this juicy article!
;-)
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Thank you for this excellent article that has inspired this 47-year resident of France to get out there and visit these awesome "borderline" treasures!
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As someone who went to Paris ten years ago, I can attest to this article. My traveling companion and I walked all over the city. By the end of each day, we both suffered from sore feet and backaches. The pain we experienced was worth it. In my humble opinion, Paris is the most beautiful city in the world. Everything from the architecture to the people was just wonderful.
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@susan I agree about the architecture.
@T.R.Devlin
Interesting. The Parisians are either very, very, very good or very, very, very rude. They were very, very, very good to me. I wonder why?
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It is very important to say "bonjour" to anyone in France before starting a conversation with a stranger or especially after entering a shop to the shopkeeper. This will completely change their attitude. This basic rule took me a long time to learn although I am a long-time resident here.
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Marvelous piece. Tourist hotspots typically feature a tourist looking through other tourists at a celebrated object. Avoiding the hotspots permits a more authentic interaction with the culture of the destination and its people. This article suggests the need, not for a single book, but for a series of books written perhaps by residents with a sense of the serendipity that informed David's wanderings.
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@maqroll
It is all in the point of view. At the Musee d’Orsay I remember looking through “tourists” looking through the celebrated clock, but the majority of those tourists were yammering away in French. Sometimes everyone goes to a particular spot because it is wonderful, not because it is in a guidebook.
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Paris is a truly great city where my wife and I lived as newlyweds and a place we still visit often. While spending a month there a few years ago, each day we would take a different metro line to the end stop and then explore the arrondissement on foot before returning to our hotel on the Left Bank in the evening. Such excursions did both delight and surprise as we visited some old haunts and met new people. Can't wait to return likely in May.
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A very delighful narrative, I have been to Paris , way too many times, that I stop taking pictures, and was using the ones in file, in other words I was bored with the same sights, so I decided to star taking photos of places and objects totaly the oposite to what describes the city of lights, and I did, but the problem was that i could never describe it with elecoquence of this writer, Mr.DAVID McANINCH...
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As someone who livd in Paris in the 70's - when it was still an inviting, open and vibrant city - I enjoyed very much Mr.
McAninch's look at a sectors of Paris that may drive new life into it once again. Paris has never lacked for beauty, but for many decades it has felt like it was folding in on itself. The expansion will hopefully bring a physical and emotional renewal to a place that richly deserves one.
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Did you not make it to Sevres (at the western end on M9) where a short walk across that section of the Seine brings you the site of manufacture of some of the finest ceramics in the world and the museum that displays them. And a short bus ride from La Defense is Malmaison, Josephine’s home away from Napoleon. The list of the treasures outside the Peripherique is long and they are easy to get to. I could go on, but highly recommend a useful book entitled “An hour from Paris” that includes greatly helpful details of how to get to great places from the closest train. Explore!
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A very interesting article. Finally a journalist wandering beyond the most central districts of Paris. And yet what you saw was still pretty central, and only a small, very small, fraction of Greater Paris.
In my opinion, Paris becomes really interesting much further away from the center, in areas that you cannot reach by Métro (only by RER or suburban trains). For example, if you liked the Bois de Boulogne, I would greatly recommend a walk from the Mont-Valérien fort in Suresnes (with the lovely US military cemetery beneath it) to St Cloud and its amazing 17th century park (and horse riding club!) to Sèvres where there is a property which is international territory (not even the Nazis dared enter in in WW2) where they keep the metric standard for the entire world, to Meudon with its beautiful observatory.
Another one, further west, would start in Marnes-la-Coquette (a bit like Bel Air in LA, if you know that area), accessible by train from La Défense or St Lazare, and then walk towards Vaucresson, Bougival (of Impressionist fame), Louveciennes (with its beautiful 18th century château which hosted the Countess du Barry, a free woman mistress of Louis XV and guillotined during the Revolution), and finally Marly-le-Roi, one of my favorite places, with its picturesque town center resembling a colorful village from Provence.
One life wouldn't be enough to explore all of Greater Paris.
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@Jessica
Marley le Roi -- once the site of a royal chateau is a bus ride away from St. Germain-en-laye, the last stop on the RER to the west -- and which also has several interesting things to see.
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Nice to read about Paris in a way that doesn't feel like you are going to the equivalent of the Upper East Side, a few museums, good food and Central Park? Can you write a similar article for NYC so we redistribute the tourists to other areas that would enlighten their understanding of this city too?
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Thank you for this fabulous, detailed travelogue. I have a few questions. 1. Does the author speak French? I imagine that on the periphery of the city, it will be harder for Anglophones to communicate with the locals. 2. Is it possible to circumperambulate this walk? Could it be done without the use of the Metro? 3. Could the Times provide a map of the author's walks?
Thank you!!
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@Ellen Tabor
the periph is around 20 miles around...so it is possible to walk it, but might take awhile. walking across the city is easier, as the longest direction is only about 8 or so miles.
a lot of banlieus include immigrant heavy neighborhoods -- so you can get around with English, as most people (especially young ones who watch films and t.v.) know enough to help you get by. however, yes, it will be much harder to come across, say, a restaurant menu that has an English option.
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@Ellen Tabor Hi, I'm not sure if you've ever been to Paris or other countries where the main language is not English. On my first trip abroad to Europe I was concerned too but afterwards, I learnt to not let language be a barrier. First do learn some basic French -- generally, I found people treated me better even if I could not speak the language well but tried. You don't need to learn a lot: hi, thank you, where is the bathroom?, etc. Duolingo is free and many public libraries have free online programs. Second, if you carry a guidebook with you or any free mobile apps out there, find what you want to say and just show it to the person in writing. There are also compact picture books where you just show the picture of what you want: these work well for any language. Third, you would be surprised how much you can get across via facial expressions and gestures.
For public transport, I found the buses to be better than the Metro, which is underground and thus doesn't give the same sense of orientation. Also, some Metro stops have a lot of stairs and don't go to as many places. Locals use the bus a lot.
Also, I would not underestimate the lack of English skills ahead of time. Not Paris but my parents have travelled to many metro areas of the world where solely English has served them fine.
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This is a great article however it is missing a map where we can follow the route you took.
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@Bis K Agreed! I had Google maps pulled up on another tab so I could look up the places mentioned by the author as he went along day-by-day. Having maps in the article would make it an even more useful piece.
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@Bis K
Or maybe the point is to meander in a general direction while keeping the periph within sound distance on your left. For that, you do not need an itinerary. And for each of the author's landmarks that you "miss", you will discover several other beautiful, strange, ugly, mysterious, joyful, romantic, ancient, modern, unknown buildings and neighborhoods.
That is the whole point of walking within or around Paris: do not aim for what others have seen and described, go and discover your own!
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A fascinating journey and challenge. But an incomplete article. How can I, a non-French speaker, replicate the self-guided tour without a written guide? According to the author, Google maps won't do. Please, DAVID McANINCH, finish the job. Or if you have, tell us where. April in Paris, or rather Le Grand Paris, is coming quickly.
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@Warren Kimball, You can get a Michelin Guide in English. Or just a city map. I did Leningrad (now St. Petersburg) in 1990 with a map and about 10 words of Russian. The map did show the subway and tram lines.
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Makes be want to hop on a plane, bien sûr, but at 89, I do not hop so well. A lovely piece. Merci beaucoup!
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@Donald Carey: So don't hop but take your time and go to Paris. There are lots of nonstop flights. If you can walk 3 blocks you can go anywhere on the Metro.
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@Jeff Really? Is this true for someone whose body has difficulty with more than a couple of stairs? Are you including the endless stairs within the metro? Unless the metro has changed substantially since the 1990s(and I hope it has!), navigating Paris proved nearly impossible for a young person with severe arthritis. I've been avoiding a return to that city--which I loved, in my early youth--for the inaccessibility alone. Sincerely hope that's improved.
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During my visits to Paris I stuck with the central city tourist areas. You've whetted my appetite to see more.
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quite an undertaking! A less ambitious and far less stressful tour of Paris was something I did about 30 years ago: riding the #6 line from Etoile to Nation, then the #2 line back to Etoile. much of this route is above ground and goes thru some of the outer arrondissements. On a separate visit, the most interesting feature of the St Denis Basilica was that it is the cathedral acknowledged to be the birthplace of Gothic architecture. (see Abbott Suger). If you prefer graves, go to Pere Lachaise in the 20th
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The flaneur's approach to life. Excellent!
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Are you positive about “The Basilique Cathédrale de Saint Dénis, where visitors will encounter hundreds of dead French monarchs.”? Basic maths forbid me to understand how we (I am a Frenchman) can have had so many of them... To be more accurate, from the 5th to the 19th century, 64 kings and 3 emperors. You may want to add a god (present Jupiter), but this is beside the point.
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Formidable. Thanks for this fun ramble.
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sounds wonderful - can you share the details of your itinerary in map form?
thanks!!
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@gail in paris: Take the Metro to the edge of Paris and walk either clockwise or counterclockwise. Look on the Metro map for "porte d- (something)". For example Porte Doree.
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Yes it’s all that, but NOT messy!
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I wonder whether the author of this article spoke French while on his visit of the banlieues of Paris. That would make all the difference.
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@Marty F
The last time I was in Marley-le-Roi taking the RER into the city I asked something in French only to have the response delivered in English. (Everyone (nearly) studies English -- some speak flawlessly and others -- well their English/my French. (Some people are very nice; other people not so much.... )
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@Marty F: The only french you need is the polite words that are in any phrase book. Most Parisians speak pretty good english. I discovered that when I used a phrase book, suddenly the french were nicer.
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Fantastic article!
Born in Montreuil
Living now in
Vincennes follow me in my Parisian stroll anytime to discover more of Paris
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As a student in Paris during the much-ballyhoed late sixties (and justifiably so!), I read with great interest McAninch's story of his 6 day trek beyond the Péri. I can remember our professors warning us not to go beyond central Paris - "Nothing to see or do out there."
Great article, reminds me of what INSIDE the Péri was like then.
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Great article! These are areas full of energy and creativity -- much more than the center of Paris currently. I also suggest strolling through "La Campagne à Paris," a lovely block of village-like houses near Porte de Bagnolet.
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I loved the 50 miles I walked in Paris and I had no choice because the metro was on strike.
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What luxury! A few unhurried days to poke around Paris. Thank you for taking us with you on your journey and sharing the delights you found among "les banlieues."
Having been confused by the idea of "les banlieues" before, I humbly suggest not trying to translate it for us in America, where urban development is quite odd. "Suburbs" have the opposite connotation of "banlieue" and "outskirts" is too vague to describe that area in European cities that is too far to walk from the city center and attracts industry and HLMs ("the projects"). Similarly, it is futile to translate "inner city" into French because the centreville is universally desirable living space in France.
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@DanAxtell I like your observations of how some words lose their connotation in another language, like liberal. :-)
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Dan, Yes, it's hard to translate "banlieue" - it's a term sometimes used to describe an area in France outside of a city that could be considered an area where disenfranchised people like (like we would say in English, a "slum"), but not necessarily, as it often is used to describe where blue collar people live.
Is there a term in English that does match the French word, or concept, of a banlieue that someone would use?
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Lovely. Having lived in Puteaux, i recognize the mood and the impressions. It would be great to have a map of this Tour de Paris, with etape 1, 2 etc. marked.
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Basilique Cathédrale de Saint Dénis is one of my favorite spots in Paris. It really is a stunning place. The other is the Parc Bagetelle when the roses are in bloom. I can not wait to read the book.
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There is also a bus ( assuming it still runs) that goes around the periphery of the city, providing glimpses of backyards and homely streets, occasional beauty, utterly outside of the tourist itinerary.
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@Ex-expat The good old PC ("petite ceinture", or little belt, which was often packed tighter than a tin of sardines) has been replaced by a series of trams and (along certain stretches) the PC 1 and PC 3. So it's still possible to ride all around Paris, just a bit more complicated and with a lot more transfers.
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It's no longer a bus for most of the route but a modern slick and fast tramway.
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Absolutely lovely article. Made me feel like doing that walk myself - maybe you should write a tour guide. Captures the spirit and the mood of Paris. Thank you.
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We returned from Paris yesteday, no metro, no buses, entirely on foot. 60 miles, 6 days, no blisters, amazing weather, and wine for lunch every day. C’est bon!
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I know Paris well, having worked there for several years and visiting often, and I enjoyed this approach to a wonderful city very much. I wish you had included a map of your walk tho!
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Paris is a moveable feast! The wonders of this great city give one hope in the future. Unlike in the US, the past is not only always present, it is not even past, as Faulkner said. I have been to Paris many times and, in my latest trips, I often take a Metro to some distant spot and just get out and walk, letting my whims take me to treasures far off the tourist trail. And the food - there is always a cafe in site to provide a refuge and a memorable meal. Thank you David for reminding us that a great city is more than its marble heart - it is a breathing, pulsating presence to be lived in.
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