You Say Tomato, I Say Tomato Toast

Jul 20, 2018 · 46 comments
JD (Barcelona)
After marrying into a Catalan family from Figueres over 30 years ago, I think I am an expert at pa amb tomata (its name in that part of Catalunya). No self-respecting home cook uses grated tomatoes; that's what some restauants do to save time. Many Catalans use a type of small, juicy tomato (no more than 1.5 inches across at its widest) called a tomacon; these tomatoes can be stored for long periods of time at room temperature and are often purchased braided and hung in kitchens. The trick is to use ripe tomatoes, good bread and extremely good quality olive oil. No one in Catalunya would ever put sliced tomatoes on pa amb tomata. With ham, cheese, or an omelet it is a typical mid-morning breakfast. And it is the basis of many quick dinners.
Will (Rockland, ME.)
Pa amb tomàquet in Catalan, btw. Best on pa de vidre, or bread of glass...an airy, crunchy-crusted ciabatta-like bread baked in Catalunya. Bon profit!
Betty Loy (Emmaus)
I was raised in the southern part of the USA by people with extensive summer gardens. Tomatoes and toast was then, and remains now, a favorite summer meal or just a treat. “You’ll find your happiness lies right under your eyes back in your own backyard. “
bauskern (new england)
I'm curious why Eric recommends white wines from Italy or France over those of Spain . . . . I'm guessing the Catalans would not agree.
Fam (Tx)
Rutgers or Atkins acidity tomatoes on toasted sourdough broiled wIth melted sharp cheddar on top......our favorite weekend breakfast for over 40 years....OMG what a delight. Loved the article.
Elena (Boston)
My Italian father taught me to make a version of this that seems more like the version here but even more simple: Toasted bread, rubbed with a peeled garlic clove, topped with sliced tomatoes, more olive oil, and salt. It is simple and delicious, and I still make this all the time today. I thought it was interesting that Tania did not mention the Italian version — and perhaps there are more versions in other cultures.
Aliceayers2006 (Chicago Illinois)
@Elena My Italian mother served this to us all of the time for lunch when we were kids. Rubbed garlic on these big, donut-shaped rounds of dry Italian bread - I can't remember what they were called, but they were flat and dry - and then she'd break up a tomatoe over it, and put olive oil, salt and pepper on it, with a bit of oregano too. It was delicious and we ate a lot of it!
Maddy (Michigan )
I'm not sure when I developed a dislike for tomatoes. I can not seem to eat them. I have a tendency to pick them out of dishes like a little kid. As I was reading through the article I thought of how simple but delicious the tomato bread looked, which is a first for me. I would have to go through the recipe to get rid of any gluten, because I have Celiac Disease. Tomato bread seems simple and easy to make, maybe this swill be the first dish that I will enjoy with tomatoes in it.
AvaWHS (Raleigh)
I found this article interesting because I traveled to Barcelona last year and took a Catalan cooking class where I learned to make tomato toast. I learned it’s a Catalan specialty that is served any time of day and with almost any type of meal. I especially enjoyed having it for breakfast. I think tomato bread is an amazing starter in any traditional Spanish restaurant and a staple for tapas menus. It is light and has amazing flavors for a simple dish. I have tried many combinations of tomato bread since my class in Spain. However, I think that the classic tomato bread is the best because it is simple and delicious. What I learned from this article is the history behind tomato bread - that it was a way to make use of stale bread and turn it into something delicious!
James (Chicago)
In Barcelona as I write this and I would make adjustments to the recipe. The tomato and olive oil is applied to "soft" bread, not toasted bread. They open a ciabatta roll and toast the crust soft side down. Some tear the halved roll in pieces so the torn edges toast. Then they flip over and apply the tomato first followed by a drizzle of oil. Yes to adding salt. No to garlic. And serve.
Bill (BC)
On our first trip to Spain this year we discovered the beauty and the simplicity of a grated tomato on toast. We had never considered that grating a tomato was something anyone would do but truly enjoyed them any time of the day. It was one of the first things I did when we got home. With the right tomato you end up with something lively and refreshing and yes I know that sounds strange but go figure. You can dress it up with a little olive oil, garlic, grated cheese, Jerez vinegar or eat it as is. So good!
Miss Ley (New York)
On a July day long ago, the first summer my parent and I will spend in Catalonia starting in 1958, the fishing village resting at the feet of the Pyrenees is beautiful but poor; traces of the Civil War linger in the ruins. A loud braying wakes me up and much to my enchantment, it is a small white donkey who descends the mountain daily at dawn, bringing dairy products, manchego and mantequilla, and I plan to write a short story called 'The Butter Donkey', when I am 88. Sara, the local woman, who is taking care of me, seems awfully old and later when she is 60, she marries the mayor of the town. She is sitting near the open balcony, rubbing a slab of thick bread with a tomato and oil. This is astonishing to the eyes and taste of a child, brought up on cornflakes for breakfast in New York with a glass of orange juice. There is no milk, no fridge, no radio, and bread would be toasted in a brick oven. I never got into the swing of pan con tomate, and later when attending the village school, Dona Teresa, the teacher in one large class room for all ages, is seated at her desk, mopping her oily plate with tomato bread. We stand around her, reciting in unison the four provinces of Catalonia. Ode to Catalan, and pleasant memories of this staple breakfast, which tastes best apparently when enjoying it in Gerona.
PeppaD (Los Angeles)
@Miss Ley What a lovely story. Such a vivid description. Thank you for sharing.
Lisa Conde Fondeur (Totana, Murcia, Spain)
Allegedly, pan con tomate was introduced to Catalonia by transplanted Murcianos who sought to soften the hard bread they found there. https://www.abc.es/catalunya/20140630/abci-origen-catalan-tomate-2014062...
Barry (Los Angeles)
Should skin and seeds be removed due to lectins? Are lectins a concern? Serious questions.
Max (Brooklyn)
@Barry I've been to Spain a number of times and have not seen or heard of anyone removing skin or seeds to make this toast. I haven't heard the issue come up.
lou (kentucky)
Every bar I've ever been to in Barcelona just rubs the bread with a tomato than adds oil and salt, must be my class of bars.
Chuck (PA)
Good luck in trying to find a juicy, ripe tomato.
Becca (Baltimore)
@Chuck Grow them! Can't wait to try this with tomatoes from my garden. An alternative is the farmers market.
Azahara (Barcelona)
We do not typically eat tomato bread “at every meal,” just on special occasions (potlucks, local festivities, barbecues, etc.), and usually in the summer. I for one haven’t eaten it in years, and then only because someone from America was visiting. That said, it is true that “in the Catalan region, it has attained cult status." I’m not a chef (or a big fan) but I think I might be able to offer some pointers. -If you want to please the purists, the bread should be "pa de pagès: https://ca.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pa_de_pag%C3%A8s -It is not traditionally toasted, but nowadays that’s an accepted alternative. The same goes for the addition of garlic; originally it was just bread, tomato, oil, and salt. -The order of the three main ingredients (besides bread) is debatable, much like clotted cream and jam versus jam and clotted cream in England. I recommend salt, plus tomato (while rubbing it the salt is evenly spread out and soaked), and finally a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. -The tomato should never ever be puréed or grated (that’s more Andalusian style), let alone sliced and used as a topping (like in the first image). Seriously, the latter is sacrilege, since this is usually what you end up getting in Madrid when trying to order the Catalan staple. Conclusions coming up (too long for one post)
Azahara (Barcelona)
@Azahara There's nothing wrong with innovative versions, but the real thing involves a few "golden rules" that must be followed in order to be able to call it by its original name. Earlier this week The New Yorker published a video about the arrival of ramen in America in which chef Shigetoshi Nakamura compares the attitudes towards the dish in Japan (where "old-style" is preferred) and the U.S. (where he "can do more freestyle"): https://youtu.be/i7IlVPGpeA4?t=4m40s. A similar dichotomy could be applied to pa amb tomàquet. In theory, being 32 makes me a millennial, but I’m old-school and prefer not to experiment with the classics of any cuisine. I guess that makes me boring… P.S.: Sorry for the typos in my first post.
cuchillero (glasgow, UK)
@Azahara You comment make me think you aren't really representative of how popular is pa amb tomaquet in Catalonia though. If in doubt, check the expert: "Pa amb tomàquet amb 63 suculentes receptes", from Leopoldo Pomés.
South Of Albany (Not Indiana)
The grating or rubbing may also come from nearly all of Spain’s aversion to skin, including in Catalunya. When making a proper gazpacho there too all skins are removed. I was kind of appalled the first time I first experienced pan amb tomaquet because it seemed most of the tomato was wasted. But, that’s how the skin and some flesh of the tomato is regarded. The same is done for the sofrito in Paella and many other rice dishes. Basically, Spaniards and Catalans don’t eat the skin. It’s not considered part of the fruit.
Former OSU (Ohio)
We, senior citizens, were introduced to this delicious dish in Córdoba by two young men we met while window shopping. They described how to make it and said it was the “perfect breakfast” for everyone! We agree wholeheartedly, but only if made with real Spanish EVOO. The young men said any restaurant or bar in Spain would know exactly what we wanted if we ordered a tostado. They were correct!
N.B. (Cambridge, MA)
I just picked up cherry tomatoes from the garden. Had been wondering about what would be the best use of it. Started with a toast...looking for next steps. And imagine without searching happening on this article. There is a moment in time. All minds want the answer to the same question at this moment :-) Mine will have tomato spread and cherry tomatoes cut in half on top. There is another article somewhere on NYT by Melissa clark with heirloom tomoatoes garlic rubbed on top -- another favorite!
vishmael (madison, wi)
and if the knife used in preparation remains on the dining table, make sure it is never pointing directly at any person - molta mala sort.
James (Ohio)
This only vaguely resembles pa amb tomàquet the ubiquitous and delicious Catalan staple. See here: https://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/catalan-tomato-bread-109516 or https://www.barcelonaturisme.com/wv3/en/enjoy/8/the-sacred-principles-of...
Sally B (Chicago)
@James, purists may quibble, but it's what tastes good that's important. Who cares what anybody else calls it?
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ Sally B Chicago Gosh, an unappetizingly sounding name may condemn the dish to oblivion. But an attractive name of something that tastes poorly, may live forever.
NYC Dweller (NYC)
YUM!!
Tom Mix (NY)
I don’t know where the writer of this story made the observation about the “ current abundance of ripe tomatoes “. All what you get in NYC, even in upscale markets, are the ordinary greenhouse tomatoes from Canada. The days of Jersey tomatoes are long gone (hey, maybe we should slap some seasonal tariffs on imported greenhouse tomatoes).
Just a thought (New York)
@Tom Mix Local, ripe tomatoes are in season now.
Emily (Vermont)
This article missed that bread for this dish is not typically toasted, but rather griddled in extra virgin olive oil. I feel like thousands of Americans are going to toast up some bread, dry rub it with garlic and toss on tomatoes, and wonder what all the fuss is about, and come to some incorrect conclusions about Spaniards and their food. For the love of food culture, please make perfectly crisp, glistening olive oil pan toast for this dish.
Susan Simo (Idaho)
The Mallorcans have a special tomato that they squeeze on the bread and the most marvelous brown bread. Pa amb oli is a regional specialty and is typically eaten at the uniquely Spanish late night dinner.
Isaac (maine)
s'hostal on the island of Mallorca, there it is called pamboli, a heavy saltless brown bread with garlic rubbed and then a very rich ripe tomata with a lot of seeds (I don't know the exact type) topped of with Alice's of jamon Serrano and a cheese similar to an edam. it's the simplest bliss I have experienced on that lovely Isle.
Kay (Sieverding)
I really like toasted crusty rye bread or hearty wheat covered with organic peanut butter with tomatoes on top, extra on side. Personally I think the combination of peanut butter and tomatoes is great. Plus this way you get protein and fiber.
lisa (dc)
I appreciate the article, but no need for all the fuss. This is how I learned it from old pros in Andalucia and have been doing it ever since: Just drizzle a little EVOO on toast, press the toast a bit with your fingers so the oil gets absorbed, lay on some tomato slices (must be tasty, ripe ones), and top it off with a little salt if you want. Perfect breakfast any day of the year. Especially with a few avocado slices on the side. Mmmmmm
JsBx (Bronx)
And how is this different from bruschetta? Or for that matter from the version eaten in southern France?
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ JsBx Bronx Perhaps the one described by Mr. Tanis is a New York version? Then all one would have to accept is that similar dishes may appear in different places, presumably independently of one another ... :-))
J (USA)
@JsBx The bruschetta we make takes French bread with olive oil and toasts it. For the tomatoes, we cut up a ripe tomato, add one clove garlic run thru a garlic press, a bit of extra virgin olive oil and a tiny capful of good balsamic vinegar. Put the tomato mix on toasted bread. Messy but delicious!
J (USA)
@JsBx I forgot the second most important ingredient: fresh cut up basil mixed in with the tomato mixture. We always, in the summer, have basil growing in our garden.
YellowDogDem (Silicon Valley, CA)
It's Friday night in the SF Bay area and there is tomato bread, jamon, a spanish cheese and homemade sangria on the menu. We relive our trip to Spain often.
Marge Keller (Midwest)
My husband has been enjoying this wonderful treat for years. It does make an easy, fast and delicious light evening snack or lunch. The only two additions I include are adding a small amount of freshly grated cheese on the bottom of the bread and then add the tomatoes and some fresh basil. The combination of smells, the sweetness of the cherry tomatoes (red and yellow ones) and the crunchiness of the toasted bread are incredibly enticing and refreshing. This treat has been a summer staple in our house for years. The timing of running this recipe is PERFECT.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ Marge Keller Midwest I envy your, your husband's, and Mr. Tanis's love of tomatoes grilled on toast. I like the tomato flesh, but not the seeds embedded in the viscous liquid. Separating them is too much work. Therefore I eat only fresh ellipsoidal cherry-tomatoes that are easy to place on the tongue, crush them by the tongue pressure against the palate, and swallow the whole. Easier than gnawing on large green Cerignola olives.
Marge Keller (Midwest)
@Tuvw Xyz Thank you for the gracious comment. This is one of the many reasons why I love subscribing to the NYT - reading delightful and informative comments. I have never heard ofellipsoidal cherry-tomatoes but they sound marvelous. Can these be found in the Evanston/Rogers Park area? Many thanks for the alternative to traditional cherry tomatoes. Be well. And I so enjoy your comments.
Anglican (Chicago)
Tuvw Xyz, evanston has a pretty great farmers market...if you go early enough, you can find (I’m sure you already know) not only the cherry tomatoes but really wonderful baguettes at a stand at the north end of the market. Perfect for this dish! But the baker does often sell out of them by 10.