At Ugly Baby, the Name Isn’t All That’s Unusual

Nov 28, 2017 · 20 comments
Malcolm (Nantucket Island)
The most incredible Thai food Ive ever eaten. I cant wait to go back. Fantastic!
Mitchell (Oakland, CA)
Durian tastes like boiled pearl onions? Not really. Behind the stench, it tastes like marzipan.
SN (East Village)
Pete, Please make an actual “map of great Thai dishes in the city” and put it online. Thank you.
cascia (brooklyn)
sigh... i could tell by the name alone that this place is located somewhere in brooklyn.
Andrew saores (unknown)
The name is messed up and the food looks interesting
Discernie (Las Cruces, NM)
Fine article, excellent writing, and boy do I ever want to try this places food. Super photos! Thanks Pete.
Alan Berck (NYC)
This is a rave review, not a two star review. Confusing.
jeffmcmahon (ocean park, wa)
Fine writing Pete. Ugly Baby sounds divine.
Georgina (<br/>)
LOL -- I remember the first time I tasted "green peppercorns on their stalks." It was definitely at least five minutes before I could talk. Sorry I don't live closer to Ugly Baby!
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
The name, the place inside, and its menu are certainly unusual. The place seems crowded (Slide 4) and the clients are there more for energy replenishment than for the tasting of finer cuisine. The mixtures of seemingly incompatible ingredients in some of the pictured dishes make me apprehensive, but bon appétit to all!
MomT (Massachusetts)
It's 8A and the idea of khao soi sounds so good I could cry...
Eva Klein (Washington)
I now see what is missing from Mr. Wells' reviews that I enjoy when I see a piece from his colleague, Ms. Mishun: Personality. Ms. Mishun's writing, even the pictures, all evoke a story of the hard-working (often immigrant) curators of the food, and shares their narrative by explaining how they got where they were, who inspired their cooking, and so on. With Mr. Wells, the pieces are far more analytical. Like he's a scientist trying to measure the precise amount of umami or sweetness that a dish has. It's a different style. I must say I prefer Ms. Mishun's humanization of restaurant reviews, a topic that is otherwise so dull in a newspaper.
Zendr (Charleston,SC)
that's the "genius" of the Times in providing two reviewers with different takes on what makes for good dining. I completely agree that Ligaya Mishan has an evocative style of writing which I enjoy but I also look forward to Pete Wells' clever take on the scene.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ Eva Klein Washington I am sorry to disagree with you on Ms. Ligaya Mishans writing. I find her reports permeated by sentiments that have nothing to do with good cuisine, but as if they were written by a social worker.
GreggMorris (Hunter College)
Yummy!
Mr.Muldoon (DC)
I stopped reading at “can’t find good, fast and cheap in Thai”. Joya right down the street has been churning plates of this trifecta out for a decade !
Tammi (Maine)
Might want to try again, since that's not what he said?
Nat (NYC)
I stopped reading at "Brooklyn."
Kevin (NC)
Actually, his point was the precise opposite of your interpretation.
Gregory Howard (Portland, OR)
The kao tod nom klook, which I've had only once in my life, sounds phenomenal. When I had it in a tiny Thai restaurant in Seattle many years ago, I actually bowed to my empty plate in respect.