By Design

Jul 29, 2017 · 69 comments
speede (Etna, NH)
Impressed by the unusually connected grid, I went to Wordplay to see what had been said about it. Lo and behold, it was Isaac Mizrahi himself who discussed it with justifiable pride. I can't recall having seen a more interesting layout.
Jim McCarthy (Boston, MA)
14 Down

Christmas threesome. = HOS? Will you explain that please?
jg (bedford, ny)
Ho-ho-ho.
K (George)
I thought this was easier than average for Sunday but had trouble with Imhotep. Additionally I figured it out from the crosses but still am confused by 117 across Swift ending for a bad stage performance - Hook? I will admit I still don't understand what this means (and am annoyed by the cross "talky.")
Avi (New York)
Liked the puzzle! FRA and DTS are an abbreviation and acronym, respectively. The lack of indication there led to all sorts of indignation here.
David Connell (Weston CT)
Fra is not an abbreviation. It's Italian for "Brother" as in "Fra Giovanni," "Brother John." Thus, "Order member."
MTF Tobin (Manhattanville)
.
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Martin,
If this were a blog, you would be "blogging" as you suggest afger "Woohoo." But this fine handful of contributions to nytimes.com have been "columns", so you are ... columnizing. No calumny intended, so please none of that definition/clue advice?

A former commenter once typed, "Martin, Sundays used to be big Thursdays, but now they're big Wednesdays." (Where did he go? Thought he would be bragging daily about the accomplishments of a Republican Congress when there is no veto threat.) This one was more of a Thursday, which is OK because the themelesses were easier than the norm.

My connections to the Hiroshims bomb: For 2 years or so, I lived next door to a survivor of that blast. Various siblings were at different schools, so some lived and some died. Her father was a general in the Army. I didn't ask if he survived the War (her mother was killed instantly by the blast). Her uncle was an Admiral who moved up a few rungs in 1945. He was one of several Japanese men who signed the Surrender on the U.S.S. Missouri.

The New Yorker makes John Hersey's monumental "Hiroshima" available on its website without logon. Hersey wrote it a year after the blast. I recommend it.
David Connell (Weston CT)
MTF, we haven't always seen I-to-I, but wouldn't you agree that "tired of winning" seems to be the theme of the year?

So much winning! Time to rest the eyes.
Carl L Murray (Manalapan NJ)
Nice touch with the Ink Spots!
maestro (southern jersey)
I don't know why this didn't get published this morning. Oh well, I'll try again!

This was a fun puzzle. I enjoyed reading all of these common phrases through the eyes of a fashion designer. And Martin, I agree with you -- it did feel about Wednesday-ish.

I love the clip of Ana Gasteyer in today's blog. She is talented in more arenas than comedy, though. My wife and I saw her as Elphaba on Broadway in Wicked a few years ago and thought she was terrific. At least she wasn't the let's-bring-in-a-quasi-famous-tv-star-to-lure-tourists-and-boost-ticket-sales that's so common on Broadway these days. She can really sing and act!
polymath (British Columbia)
"While ephedrine is not banned, it’s controlled, and is the reason a lot of cold medicines are kept locked up at the drugstore."

I thought that ephedra per se was indeed banned entirely. As far as I know, it's pseudoephedrine HCl that is sold with restrictions (e.g., in California one needs to show an ID and promise to buy it only infrequently; in Oregon its sold only as an Rx).

But maybe pseudoephedrine is chemically identical to the active ingredient in ephedra?
polymath (British Columbia)
(Arrrgh!): ..._it's_ sold only as an Rx.
Martin (California)
"Ephedra" is the name of the plant's genus and also refers to an extract of the plant formerly sold as a diet supplement. One active ingredient in ephedra is ephedrine, but there are other alkaloids. The variability of the extract's contents make it difficult to know exactly what's in it and how much, which is why it killed people and is now totally banned.

Purified ephedrine, an alkaloid extracted from ephedra, has medical uses. Many over-the-counter preparations include it or the closely related alkaloid, pseudoephedrine. Because both can be abused if taken in much larger doses than in cold medicines, and because both can be used as a precursor for the synthesis of meth, both are controlled. The controls are state-by-state, as you note. Ephedrine is actually subject to stricter controls than pseudoephedrine in many states.
Jimbo57 (Oceanside NY)
My sense of fashion extends to rock t-shirts and whatever is on sale at K-Mart. But that didn't stop me from enjoying today's puzzle by Messrs. Mizrahi and Kahn. Started in the NE thanks to SOPHIA and mostly worked my clockwise back to the NE. None of the themers seemed forced, and plenty of fun, uncommon answers (IMHOTEP, CRECHE, ALIENRACE, etc.) Nice to see a JAMES in the grid; maybe we'll get JIMBO someday.

After the departure of Lionel Richie in 1982, the Commodores' heyday seemed behind them, but in 1985 they rebounded with the exquisite single "NIGHTSHIFT," a lyrical tribute to R&B giants Marvin Gaye and Jackie Wilson.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrkEDe6Ljqs
OrangeAmp (Kentucky)
Quite difficult. Felt like a Friday.
Tony Longo (Brooklyn)
That was pretty good.
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
I forgot to mention that I like the "portmanteau-ish" fills that did not make the cut! I don't understand why the idea was rejected, either.

The vision of a round, button grid is very clever. It made me think that this puzzle could be a scarf or tote bag, produced with IM embellishments (color!) and sold in the ever-expanding NYT Store. Merchandising can go a long way toward saving newspapers. High profit margin. (Only part of that statement is a snarky poke directed at the paper's business management. I'm serious about the scarf or tote.)
CS (Providence)
I won't skirt the issue. I loved it! I had the most trouble with SHOOTS FROM THE HIP. I was convinced it was more like 'takes from the top'. I wish 'casual friday' had been a theme answer. It could've been clued along the lines of 'dress down a castaway'. We've been pretty lucky so far with our celebrity constructors. And now I get to do the split decision. Yay!
Beejay (San Francisco)
Congratulations on an excellent puzzle. It was a slow start until I got into the flow of the theme of fashion and common phrases; then it helped getting the last several. I fell for many of the clue misdirections. As a lifelong stitcher and designer of many of my own clothes through my school years, and beyond, I really enjoyed the thinking process. Great fun.

Good video of the Peace Park. Actually being in Hiroshima, surrounded by the contrast of current peace and the shells of former destruction is an indescribable experience. I wonder, even if the leaders of wars in the world were to go, would they "get it"?
suejean (Harrogate, UK)
Luckily one needn't know anything about fashion to enjoy this fine puzzle. So many good theme answers,( FIT TO BE TIED was my favorite) and lots of interesting misdirection; VETS for fixer of toys made me groan ( in a good way)

Misreading a clue can hold things up for quite a while. I couldn't think what "cellophane chip holder " could possibly be. I blame it on the fact that we call them mobiles here.

Very moving clip about Hiroshima, Martin.

Perhaps Isaac will be inspired to create more puzzles. I hope so.
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
Suejean, I see more and more use of "mobile" (Brit pronunciation) here, among people in the corporate world. It's particularly true for anywone who works with clients or contacts from other countries. (At first I took it as an affectation, but I think it's just easier to use the international label to avoid confusion.) I rarely hear anyone say "cellphone." In conversation it is just "cell."
David R (Australia)
Er no, vandals and Huns are not synonyms in English, unless it's some wierd Manhattan version. They were different tribes and the everyday meaning is also different.
Martin (California)
Must be a weird American thing.
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/Hun
Barry Ancona (New York, NY)
P.S. Given the theme, I was surprised that 50D was clued with food.
Dr W (New York NY)
What other topic would have worked?
Patricia (British Columbia)
Sewing would work Dr W! We learned to cook and sew. (I wanted to take shop instead but girls weren't allowed to then.)
Barry Ancona (New York, NY)
My junior high HOME EC class covered cooking...and sewing.

(Could have split the difference with "basting" in the clue.)
Mean Old Lady (Conway, Arkansas)
Well, this was fun! So clever of the Dynamic Duo to come up with phrases that *apparently* have nothing to do with the fashion industry/designing/sewing, but which could be made to, well, FIT.
I refuse to watch cartoon-movies of the Modern Era, so I always get stumped by "Frozen" snow queens and "Ice Age" characters. ELLA or ELSA? The S was last into the grid. Excellent start to my day!
I have half of the Saturday Stumper done. Finished Spelling Bee and the Berry offering.
Haven't started the Split Decisions.
Enough fun; weed-eating is on the agenda.....because, you know, all play and no work would be wrong.
Rich in Atlanta (Decatur, Georgia)
I worked this one steadily from the top down. Took me a good long while but it was an enjoyable trek. I like this kind of theme because you pretty much have to work each one from the crosses and there is invariably a nice 'aha' moment as the answer finally dawns on you. There were several good misdirections in the clues as well, and it was fun as the correct sense of each of those eventually came to me. Even more impressed by the puzzle after reviewing it; that's a lot of theme material and they were all quite clever.

I have no fashion sense ("You're wearing that?") and zero interest in it. I will confess that while I somehow recognized our co-constructor's name, I wouldn't have been able to place it.

I've been enjoying the celebrity puzzles this year. I probably would have regarded it as a stunt beforehand, but it's actually worked out well and the puzzles have all been quite good.
chuck rowniak (montreal)
bravo had little hope for this puzzle turned out to be fun and interesting who knew fashion was more than hemlines and necklines and designers could create more than clothes
Deborah (Mississauga, On)
I finished this with an error last night and was determined not to use check or come to the blog before finding it. I went through every clue this morning and even did a few googles to check spelling. I gave up and checked only to find that I had EVADES instead of EVADED. DOH!
You are right about the Peace Park in Hiroshima, Martin. It is an emotionally draining experience, but one that everybody should take advantage of. When we visited Hiroshima several years ago, we stayed at a B and B operated by American Quakers. They arranged for us to have a tour of the park with the wife of a survivor. Hearing the story from her perspective was extremely moving.
Allen Krantz (Philadelphia)
A partita is essentially another term for dance suite. It's connection to the later classical sonata is pretty tenuous.
Lewis (Asheville, NC)
Usually on a Sunday I can tell right away if a puzzle is going to fight me or not; whether it fits my wavelength or is at odds. And on today's, the message was that it was going to be a trudge. A trudge can be bad (slog) or good (lots of ahas and good brain sweat) -- and this was good. Started with lots of white space and kept going at trudge pace, gaining momentum, and by the end I felt very good and thought: This was made/overseen by a pro, this is how a solve should go.

The theme wasn't funny to me per se, but it was interesting; it felt different, out of the box. The middle-to-top on the West and middle-to-bottom on the East are islands -- separate puzzles -- that I would have liked to be better connected with the rest of the puzzle.

I didn't find it easy to come up with other theme answers. Here's my best attempt: "What a fashion designer was doing to give the most positive slant to an ugly sweater?" SPINNING A YARN.
Paul (Virginia)
I had a very similar solving experience--not tailored to my strengths. It took a while longer than a typical Sunday and some alteRATIONS, but I felt it was well worth it.
Viv (Jerusalem, Israel)
What a feat, to think of so many ordinary phrases that can have a fashion twist superimposed on them for a solve that was fun and different. Kudos to both constructors.
I'm in a bit of a time warp on Sunday mornings, having done the Saturday and Sunday puzzles in quick succession into the wee hours. So - thanks, Rich, for the second Hi that came in under the gun as you put it.
And Martin - I am intrigued by the Bronx bodega (ours was Italian) - first, because any mention of the Bronx resounds in my heart, and secondly, wondering if those spices are what your family used for Havdalah.
Robert (Vancouver, Canada)
and Elke
This was a lot of fun. But I was ON PINS AND NEEDLES hoping that there would be a reveal that Isaac Mizrahi would be available at Target again......

Nice to see RUSSETS - they make great cider, sometimes available at apple farms in the fall.

Thought there might be a mini-theme with A TEASE, IMHOT(EP), HIHO and the X-mas trio at 14D. (I hope the emus are asleep). Will see.

Will SHOOT(s)FROM THE HIP : if 'the top of the world' is ICE CAP , would the 'bottom of the world ' be ARSENAL' ?

This puzzle has earned the POW- it was fun and brief diversion from wordly going-ons....(?goings-on?)

PS-Happy birthday to all the LIONS (Leos) and (O)LEOs ; espec. LEAPY.
Deborah (Mississauga, On)
RUSSET apples are my favourite - the sweet flavour is intensified if they are picked after a frost.
Brian (Simi Valley CA)
My streak didn't increment when I got the happy music and gold star. Can someone look into that and follow up ?
Deb Amlen (Wordplay, the Road Tour)
Hi Brian,

This isn't the venue for that, and there's no one here who can help you, unfortunately. Please send an email via the Feedback form on the puzzle main page or in your app. That will go to the technical team, and it will provide them with information about your set up to help them diagnose your issue.
cmpltnst (Greater New York)
Not sure whether you'll come back to see this, but I've noticed a few times this week that it's taken a while to update my streak stats after completing the puzzle. Mine updated quickly today, but took over 2 hours yesterday and about 15 minutes Friday.
Deadline (New York City)
Okay, whatever I said before appaarently has been emu-eaten, but I guess that's okay.

I have zero interest in fashion, but I know who Isaac Mizrahi is. And I very much like what he and his collaborator have done with this puzzle. It's clever, it's fun, and it's something I can work with. Thank you.

I'm especially pleased that the themers went both horizontally and vertically.l

Thanks for a good Saturday night, Mr. Mizrahi. This was fun.
Wags (Colorado)
I'm sure I'm not the only one (Deadline, are you there?) who had TO-S filled at 4D and tried TOYS, then TOMS, before settling on TOWS, in response to the "Some rescues" clue.

I was somewhat vindicated when later we saw VETS for "Ones who fix toys?"
Deadline (New York City)
Yes, Wags, I'm with you.

Given a choice, I'll always think about dogs and cats.
Barry Ancona (New York, NY)
Off-theme but not off-topic: For 55D, Food in the field, I wanted PICNICS, since they, unlike RATIONS, are *exclusively" eaten in the field.
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
I'm so excited that I just did a puzzle co-written by Isaac Mizrahi! I had one of your dresses years ago, when I was thin and had places to wear such things. I enjoyed the clues and fills today. Definitely my wheelhouse (or atelier?). I dig puns. I like fashion. All good.

I often do better "dressing" from the ground up, so today I worked the SE to SW, then north. My first theme fill was GOESOVERTHELINE, then ONPINSANDNEEDLES. Had ONAWHIM before ONADARE, and CHEWSON before CHEWSUP, and IMHOTEP was new to me. The rest was pretty CUTANDDRIED. Not a CHORE at all.

I do want to mention one thing, though. A person performing HULA is not well described as a "shaker." That's more like the cartoon image of a hula dancer. The Hula hip movement is much more of an undulation, and is part of a larger story. HULA is an art and a pivotal part of the Hawaiian culture. It's a thing of beauty, and joy.

Thank you for a clever puzzle, and thanks to Martin for the remarkable Bach recording, which I am listening to as I type. Marvelous!
Mean Old Lady (Conway, Arkansas)
Good for you, Passion for Peaches!
I wanted AMENHOTEP, and I shuddered when HULA appeared. The Tahitian version seems to involve a lot of shaking, but Hawaiian HULA dancers move with slow grace at all times. (Will, etc., please note!)
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
MOL, I think most people tend to think of Polynesian dance as one thing, when it comprises many styles and cultures. I blame hotel luaus for contributing to this misperception. They often tend to rely heavily on Tahitian dancing (flashier than Hula), and some even feature Maori haka. Even though the dances may be presented with an introduction describing the cultural origin, guests see Tahitian dance in Hawaii and think it's Hawaiian.

To anyone traveling to Hawaii, if you want to see the real deal, look for a Hula performance at a community arts center, cultural center or festival. Skip the hotel luau.
Barry Ancona (New York, NY)
OK, I think I'm FASHIONably late to the comments. I enjoyed this team effort, and that's my unbiased opinion. I did think the cluing had gone further beyond the official themers than HAREM pants and ELLE (and yes, the BRA, Martin). I wanted fashion clues for SNAP and HOOK and PILE. I wanted SPADE to be Kate. And we don't IRON? HONESTLY!

(35D: Not a hit)
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
Regarding 35D, I wish that fill (and similar fills) could be retired. I realize it's part of history, but it's always jarring to see that, and it seems to -- on some level -- trivialize an unspeakably horrific thing. Furthermore, given what is going on in North Korea (yet another missile, visible from Japan!), it's upsetting.

My autocorrect changed North Korea to Roth Loreah. : - o
Barry (Virginia)
I don't normally comment on puzzles, but I just had to say how much I enjoyed this one. It's not been a good day, but this puzzle did good.
suejean (Harrogate, UK)
It is so nice when a rare commenter comes it to say something good.
Dr W (New York NY)
It is rare I get a sense of deja vu during a puzzle, but on this one it came up big, especially in connection with the theme and the clue for the camera angle.

Why?

Simple: I had spent a delightful three hours looking at Irving Penn's photographs at the Met Museum on Friday (since the exhibit's last day is Sunday), and the memory of that was very fresh.

And it is nice that I had a fashion photo theme overlap there too. Interestingly, Penn's instrument of choice was the twin-lens Rolleiflex -- which generally requires one to hold the camera about at hip level to aim and shoot.

Well hello Martin! is this your first blog hosting or have there been earlier ones?
Martin (California)
Dr W,

Deb entrusted me with her baby once before for a couple of days. I guess nothing I broke then was irreparable because she let me flail around again. It's been a fun week and I learned she really works her butt off on her column. Tomorrow's my last day and we'll all be very thankful to have Deb back on Tuesday.
Deb Amlen (Wordplay, the Road Tour)
Martin, You've done a fabulous job, and thanks for stepping up when everyone in the newsroom took a look at this job and took a *giant* step back. :)
David Dyte (Brooklyn)
Nearly lost my shirt there for a bit, but got it all buttoned down eventually. A well fashioned puzzle, for sure. FIT TO BE TIED was a beauty.
Wen (MA)
Very good solid puzzle. The theme entries were all good and so were the crossings. Some pretty clever cluing to make ordinary phrases to become fashion-related. Well done and thanks to our constructors (and editors).

Entries I didn't quite understand:
80D DTS - Drunk's problem
86D COOLERS - Cans
110D USE - Advantage

SW corner gave me most trouble and was last to fall, as it was with Liz B.
I was thinking a nationality of latina before coming to realization it was SRTAS, which then allowed me to chip away at it. My not understanding 86D and 110D didn't help me to solve that corner.

Took a little longer than I would have liked, but well within my general range and is still below my average.

And four videos in the blog! Nice job Martin.
Kiki Rijkstra (Arizona)
Entries I didn't quite understand:
80D DTS - Drunk's problem is Delirium Tremens from withdrawal
86D COOLERS - Cans--joints, pens, jails, prisons
110D USE - Advantage--USE that to your own benefit
Barry Ancona (New York, NY)
Wen:
Re: 80D http://www.dictionary.com/browse/delirium-tremens
Re: 86D Coolers = Cans = Jails
Re: 110D Hope the above were of use (advantage) to you
David Dyte (Brooklyn)
DTS = Delerium tremens, shaking that shows itself in alcoholics.
Mac Knight (Yakima, WA)
Excellent assortment of videos today, Martin. After 24 years working at Hanford, the Hiroshima one made me cry.
Martin (California)
Thanks, Mac. You can imagine how emotionally draining a visit to the Peace Park is. We were moved to the point of exhaustion. The people who need it the most will never go there, unfortunately.
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
I just watched it. I completely lost it at the tricycle.
Mac Knight (Yakima, WA)
Loved the puzzle and the fashion puns. Many other fine entries as well. Tight, well-constructed gem. Thanks.
judy d (livingston nj)
good Sunday. Quick. last to fall was fajita. JEEP was clever as was TIMER. my cell phone ring is just like a door chime! sometimes confusing to others.
Mac Knight (Yakima, WA)
I use the Jetsons' doorbell for incoming text message notification. It's surprising how many people recognize it.
Liz B (Durham, NC)
I enjoyed this one; thought it was a good, well-made puzzle. It solved in just about average Sunday time--not too fast, not too slow. I did have to take a break before I could finish the SW corner--couldn't think of SRTAS the first few times through, but it came to me when I came back to the puzzle after dinner, and that got me through the corner.

I tried AWOL before JEEP and PHARAOH before IMHOTEP. I think of RUSSETS as being potatoes rather than apples, so that was slow.

JAMES IV died at Flodden in 1513. Wikipedia says he was the last king of anywhere in Great Britain, not just Scotland, to die in battle. What remaining monarchs there are certainly play a much different role these days!
Bruvver (Berkeley)
Although I am generally anti-royals and would like to see them all go, I must stand up for the current royals and their military service. The Queen served briefly in the ATS (with my mother), Harry fought in Afghanistan. William served in the forces for 8 years, but wasn't allowed to go to war, and then as a civilian air ambulance pilot, his last flight being just 2 days ago. Several others were also in combat including Phillip and Andrew.
Kristin (Cincinnati)
I stubbornly held on to AWOL, so proud of myself for getting it so quickly... and then tipped my HAT when I finally gave it up, realizing it was JEEP (which is even more clever).
Bruvver (Berkeley)
The best of these "famous" puzzles.