Aligoté, Burgundy’s Other White Grape, Makes Its Case

I lived in Burgundy in a small town NW of Dijon for 3 years in the late 70's. Every few months, my boyfriend and I would go to a local negociant in Nuit St. Georges to but a barrel of Aligote and a barrel of its sister red, Passetoutgrainss. The custom here was to have a long conversation with the grizzly patriarch about whatever was on his mind that day in hopes that he would be satisfied with our patronage and then summon one of his workers to take us down into the "cave" to taste all of the lovely wines there, often to our hearts' content. We would then fill up our plastic wine barrels with the local red and white. Once we got home, we would fill the bathtub with hot water, dump in all of the corks we had saved from old wine bottles and proceed to fill and cork the wine, a wonderful process that always left us a bit tipsy as we often had to drink up the excess in order to properly cork the bottles. Aligote, with its earthy full taste is, to this day, a coveted bottle of white wine, not only for the memories it conjures but because it is an interesting and unique wine that is a true vin ordinaries du Bourgogne.

Good to see mention of the Lafarge aligote. It's delicious.

I live in the Languedoc where there is a similar attitude of disrespect towards the historic Carignan. Visiting Burgundy at the moment so this article appears at a perfect time. Will definitely check out some of the places mentioned.

Some years ago, my wife and I enjoyed hiking thru the northern Côte Chalonnaise. Mercurey. Rully. And Bouzeron. Beautiful territory to behold. A visit to Domaine Chanzy in the very center of Bouzeron led us to enjoy well-made and affordable Aligoté ever since. Living in Maine, we enjoy it with fresh seafood, especially oysters and of course lobster. You've got to love their village's name and bottles with the name "Bouzeron" boldly emblazoned declaring this crisp and tasty AOC.

Oh, to live in Burgundy, where such things are treasured! I have selected Aligote when visiting there to go with shellfish and I very much enjoyed the selection carried by our 'upper end' restaurant.
I agree with the wine panel that fine Aligote wines deserve more respect. Thank you for taking a serious look at a wider range of offerings than the ones wine writers cover to death!

It is true, the French don't really take this grape seriously (not did I) unless you are in Burgundy and even then, not always. I've never been served it at a social occasion I've attended in my 11 years living in France nor has it been brought to my home by a guest, I've only had it in Burgundy or at a bistro in Paris and I've enjoyed it but never went much further exploring it. One day a few years back, I was with a small producer in Santenay tasting quite early in the day and he started us with his aligoté. We pressed him as to why he made it and he said he needed something to drink with his omelettes in the morning! But this is why wine is interesting and adventurous, thanks again Eric for helping pique my curiosity sending me off in a new direction to explore.

Enjoyed reading this article about this sometimes lost grape. It's great to see the resurgence of this wine in France. I certainly will explore these selections. For those near Ontario Canada, a fine Aligote to explore is Chateau des Charmes Aligote. Their 2016 has just been released. IMO it's the perfect summer wine. Crisp and refreshing, herbacious with a great minerality. I certainly will compare it to the French versions.

i hope we are all aware of the great strides that have been made in viticulture over the last decades. the old reputation of Aligote comes from the old days - a similar situation to Petit Chablis. of course things have changed. but to do an article on Aligote without noting where the vast majority of it comes from? most Aligote has always been grown in the Cote d'Auxerre not in the Cote d'or or chalonaise. in the Auxerre vignerons DO care about the variety and have for a very long time.

I recall the Montluisants from the 70's which included white Pinot from Gouges and I think Chardonnay. Incredibly austere wines but with a tension that was palpable. Could age indefinitely. 1989 was I think a breakout year of great ripeness that actually drank well from the get go. Fascinating wines. I'm glad to see this heritage wine get some attention.

I recall a bottle at Rouge Tomate, several years ago: "D'Autres Vallées" 2011, from Alice and Olivier De Moor--a late harvest Aligoté, made from fruit grown on a small parcel of the De Moor's 15-acre estate. Bottled unfiltered, unfined, and without cold stabilization, it was nonetheless absolutely clear and bright in the glass. Technically, the wine is considered "medium sweet," but the fierce native acidity of the Aligoté keeps everything in balance. Aromas and flavors of green apple and citrus. It paired beautifully with scallops and carrot gazpacho. I admit to going a bit gaga over it.

To me this is almost comical. Having just returned from Burgundy this afternoon, dozens upon dozens of noble but unknown vignerons are producing wonderful wines in Volnay, Meursault, Pommard, St. Aubin and the like in obscurity while we tout the Aligote of "discovered" winemakers that, while delightful, are a fraction of the quality of the classical appellations made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in their native homeland by winegrowers with hands like catcher's mitts and a farmer's sensibility. Aligote makes an excellent aperitif or a glorious kir, but it pales in the presence off the those wines that truly fulfill the patrimony of the region.

We buy it from time to time. It is good ("correct") but not a very memorable wine.