While living in London I visited this area (Glastonbury, Totnes, etc) in June once in the mid 90s. The whole 'mystical', 'ley lines' community can be overkill but even this skeptic did experience something interesting in the environs of Glastonbury. The sun was setting simultaneous to the moon rising. They hung at the same level over the landscape at 180 degrees of each other and at first glance it was hard to tell one orange-tinted light-emitting orb from the other. We turned from one to other saying "that's the sun, no...wait... that's the moon" at least twice before we were able to discern. That was interesting. Maybe there is something 'special' about the landscape.
29
Don't forget the musical references:
There were three men came out of the West, their fortunes for to try ...
There's a feeling I get when I look to the West ....
Also The Hound of the Baskervilles.
There were three men came out of the West, their fortunes for to try ...
There's a feeling I get when I look to the West ....
Also The Hound of the Baskervilles.
13
It might (should?) have been noted that Cornwall is one the six Celtic nations...
Arthur lives.
Arthur lives.
10
I'm from a small town in Ohio and could not wait to move away from the clannish way of living and thinking. I know live happily in NYC. Why is it that some prefer diversity and others don't?
4
Diversity is lovely, but cities are grey, dirty, smoke-filled, crowded and hard work (I've got end stage heart failure - try a day of stairs, standing in the Tube and queuing with a heart that doesn't work and see how much you fancy exploring diversity afterwards! Hint: You'll want to go back to the hotel and lie down. Some of us prefer a quieter life anyway and view trips to urbanised areas as an experience or holiday rather than the day-to-day.
I grew up in semi-rural commuter belt outside London. Oak woodland, hill carvings and friends I had known since the first day at school. When I went to a city university, whilst I made more great friends and had some wild times and new experiences, the pebbledashed buildings, brick and tarmac landscape was depressing as anything. I'm a country mouse and proud - it doesn't make me dislike diversity.
I grew up in semi-rural commuter belt outside London. Oak woodland, hill carvings and friends I had known since the first day at school. When I went to a city university, whilst I made more great friends and had some wild times and new experiences, the pebbledashed buildings, brick and tarmac landscape was depressing as anything. I'm a country mouse and proud - it doesn't make me dislike diversity.
16
I still have my original Once and Future King, which cost $1.75 at the time
Some may chalk the existence of King Arthur up to myth only, but considering many of the royal family includes Arthur in their princes' names (Prince Charles and Prince William), apparently it's not just a few eccentrics. I know Henry VIII had a brother named Arthur, but I doubt he merited homage through the 22st century. Scholars with better knowledge than I of British history will correct me if I'm wrong, and I welcome any additional education.
Some may chalk the existence of King Arthur up to myth only, but considering many of the royal family includes Arthur in their princes' names (Prince Charles and Prince William), apparently it's not just a few eccentrics. I know Henry VIII had a brother named Arthur, but I doubt he merited homage through the 22st century. Scholars with better knowledge than I of British history will correct me if I'm wrong, and I welcome any additional education.
8
I have Cornish ancestry and lived in London for a couple years. Make sure you check out Lands End next time and don't forget to eat a pasty!! The mining museum in Redruth is also worth a stop to see the real local Cornwall not gussied up for tourists.
14
Interesting to me that the strongest spiritual sensations were felt at sites of Christianity. God is good
13
Devon and Cornwall are stunning. If you are at all interested in prehistory or ley-line mysticism then do visit Dartmoor. Brentor church is gorgeous, perched on a granite tor overlooking the Moor and Tavistock. Also on the Michael ley line (which runs through my garden). You may get wet but it all helps to create the most sublimely green countryside. Do come and visit.
21
The Chalice Well Garden that houses the Chalice Well is such a peaceful place. I went in expecting to spend a half hour and ended up staying three. I still have a bit of the water I brought back from the well. Right next to the garden is a B&B, Berachah, adjacent to the slope of the Glastonbury Tor. The name, Berachah, means "Place of special spiritual blessing." This article brought back such wonderful memories of my trip last year.
16
OK now all day I will be thinking of Monty Python and the Holy Grail,
21
I can hear the coconuts already.
17
If you hike the 600 mile Southwest Coast Path of England, you will walk through the delightful villages described in this article. I feel that the best way to experience any new place, is to explore it on foot. Check out this beautiful, amazing hike!!
25
Southwest England is really Cornwall and Wales, both Celtic countries, hence the magic. I lived in the UK twice and spent time travelling and hiking through both Wales and Cornwall (and Ireland and Scotland). Nice article.
8
Southwest BRITAIN. Not "England"
Wales is WALES, not England.
Wales is WALES, not England.
4
SW England is in England, Wales is in, um, Wales. They're two distinct places so if you call Wales "SW England" be assured to will have to reason with some very angry Welsh.
"The South-West" in England refers to a rough line from Bristol to Bournemouth, encompassing Cornwall, Devon, Somerset and Dorset. Though Wiltshire sometimes gets a look-in too.
"The South-West" in England refers to a rough line from Bristol to Bournemouth, encompassing Cornwall, Devon, Somerset and Dorset. Though Wiltshire sometimes gets a look-in too.
19
Corwall and Wales are Celtic but have distinct cultures and languages.
5
Everything looks so clean and neat.
5
Well, I never thought I'd read about my little hometown of Totnes in the New York Times! That just made my day :)
26
Fellow Totnesian here!
10
Beware Americans: Do not drive yourself to these destinations unless you (and your companions) have nerves of steel. Left side driving....one lane/two way roads...scenery which makes it impossible to keep eyes on road. Whew!!!
20
Oh yeah, and avoid it in summer too. You will spend your day in traffic or looking for a parking space.
3
And hedge rows
5
I loved Tintagel and the rest of that coast of Cornwall when I visited back in 2000. Wonderful place with great people, especially at the Lower Tresmorn farm where I stayed in Crackington Haven.
9
On my farther side, my father's side that is, I'm a Dubliner. On my near side, on my mother's side, the roots of my forebears run deeply into the still waters of the pre-Christian well in the Parish of Madron. It's a mournful place as is so much of the Cornish hinterland once you step away even slightly from the coastal cliffs and the sea breezes.
It's all very well when it's sunny and you are likewise, but if you're prone to melancholy as are so many Celts, over time the grey skies and scudding clouds, the cutting wind and the driving rain can eat away at your bones, until your very soul feels it is starting to dissolve. It's no coincidence that we Celts like a bottle or two at times to try to wash away our despair.
And when whisky will not suffice, we voyage as far away as we possibly can from our green, verdant hovels, seeking adventure, tropical islands and beaches, and the heat, the heat of the sun and blue, unending skies of blue.
It's all very well when it's sunny and you are likewise, but if you're prone to melancholy as are so many Celts, over time the grey skies and scudding clouds, the cutting wind and the driving rain can eat away at your bones, until your very soul feels it is starting to dissolve. It's no coincidence that we Celts like a bottle or two at times to try to wash away our despair.
And when whisky will not suffice, we voyage as far away as we possibly can from our green, verdant hovels, seeking adventure, tropical islands and beaches, and the heat, the heat of the sun and blue, unending skies of blue.
45
Beautifully written!! I was able to visualize everything. Absolutely magical.
11
I'm amazed that Bill Bryson hasn't fetched up there (yet) looking for fodder for his next travelogue. 'Notes from a Weird Landscape,' or some such. This does give me the urge to fetch up there and explore my own Olde English roots, and whatever magic there may be in them.
9
Prize-worthy article! One caveat: Given the consensus that the Arthurian era came before the Anglo-Saxons reached Britain, ENGLAND and ENGLISH are inappropriate terms.
8
Love the photos.
10
Dang - he should have used an alloy more resistant to salt spray! ;^)
6
We're holidaying in North Devon right now. I love it and would happily move down here if the opportunity ever presents itself. A most beautiful and special part of the UK, indeed.
11
I, too, have stood on the cliffs, admist the spring wildflowers, and looked down at the ruins of Tintagel on my left and the beautiful turquoise ocean below. Fresh and wild, spacious. The wind was gentle that day and the sunlight soft. That was 7 years ago. I was with good friends. I am consoled a thousand times over by remembering that day, especially gazing at the blue green clear ever moving sea as I stood in all that space and air, Wales far off to the north. Ah...
26
This is a delightful article but I would add one thing; a mention of the George & Pilgrim Inn at Glastonbury. Hundreds of years old and originally serving pilgrims to the abbey, its tap room looks like something right out of the "Inn at Bree," (Tolkien fans will know to what I refer) Witches/Wiccans visiting Glastonbury should bring home a small vial of earth from the Tor and a bottle of water from the sacred spring. They are useful. Blessed Be.
33
Nice article; lovely pictures. But why isn't there a map to show the different locations in relationship to London and to each other?
22
Well written travel article. I do believe in magic -- lol. Seriously - aside from the fact that I would now consider taking in these places - your writing was great fun. Very much like a short story full of the kind of magic I believed as a child. Great job.
12
I went on a King Arthur Day tour from London recently to Glastonbury and Winchester which was a fantastic way to learn more about the site. I went with Tourist England: https://www.touristengland.com/tours/king-arthur-tour/ and had a great time learning about the legends of King Arthur. Definitely recommended for those visiting London!
15
Without a doubt one of the most beautiful regions in England, mysticism or no mysticism. I was drawn to Cornwall and Devon from childhood reading of the novels of Victoria Holt (pseudonym), and then later, as an adult, from listening to the tone poem "Tintagel" by Sir Arnold Bax. Both the books and the music conjured up mists and moors, shadows and sunlight. (And I bet many people are drawn today by having watched the delightful PBS series "Doc Martin"!)
17
A map would be nice!
22
Hooray! It's so wonderful to read the morning news and find the West Country in it! I emigrated here some years ago, living in Taunton, then up near Glastonbury for a few years, then down to Dorset. The countryside here is still that which Thomas Hardy wrote of in his novels. The roads may be tarmac, the towns and villages slightly bigger, but there is still an abundance of leafy sunken lanes, drovers tracks, softly rounded hills, orchards and local traditions to feel a long way away from the rest of the world.
Personally, whilst the Abbey at Glastonbury is fascinating, there are only so many incense and tarot shops I can take. Ditto the tourist attractions and souvenir shops of Tintagel - but the actual castle and setting are beautiful! Padstow is very different from the quiet fishing town I once holidayed in (that was only the early 90's!) and is morphing into a land of second-homes and rich executives paying £10 for elaborately cooked fish and chips(!). However Boscastle is a delight, Totnes is lovely and the River Dart one of my most favourite places in the country. My snarks at what I see as their bad points aside, the countryside around Glasto, Padstow and Tintagel is wonderful.
Please, do come back again - but (doing my bit for Dorset here) next time come via the lower route, through the Jurassic Coast. Lyme Regis, Bridport, Beer, Exeter and thence on to Devon and Cornwall!
Personally, whilst the Abbey at Glastonbury is fascinating, there are only so many incense and tarot shops I can take. Ditto the tourist attractions and souvenir shops of Tintagel - but the actual castle and setting are beautiful! Padstow is very different from the quiet fishing town I once holidayed in (that was only the early 90's!) and is morphing into a land of second-homes and rich executives paying £10 for elaborately cooked fish and chips(!). However Boscastle is a delight, Totnes is lovely and the River Dart one of my most favourite places in the country. My snarks at what I see as their bad points aside, the countryside around Glasto, Padstow and Tintagel is wonderful.
Please, do come back again - but (doing my bit for Dorset here) next time come via the lower route, through the Jurassic Coast. Lyme Regis, Bridport, Beer, Exeter and thence on to Devon and Cornwall!
18
(I should mention that by "emigrated" I am being slightly tongue-in-cheek - I moved down from the Home Counties, outside of London. Whilst that feels like another world than down here, I didn't emigrate from abroad).
6
I can easily see why people are compelled to visit this are of Britain.
They seek out a fantasy of a time, when there were clear demarcations of good and evil. ( and that good in the form of Kings and Queens stood up for the common folk and won. Thy ruled in a time of harps and love and everyone as happy )
Uhmmm no. If warm beer and paying to look at ruins of cathedrals is your thing, then be by guest,,, or theirs to be precise.
They seek out a fantasy of a time, when there were clear demarcations of good and evil. ( and that good in the form of Kings and Queens stood up for the common folk and won. Thy ruled in a time of harps and love and everyone as happy )
Uhmmm no. If warm beer and paying to look at ruins of cathedrals is your thing, then be by guest,,, or theirs to be precise.
4
Warm beer is such a cliché - and untrue. Lots of American beer is served too cold, which is just as well, as cold damps down the taste (insipid).
So don't drink beer - drink cider, the west-country drink. The whole of the west country is magical. Go farther north into Exmoor... ah!
So don't drink beer - drink cider, the west-country drink. The whole of the west country is magical. Go farther north into Exmoor... ah!
8
She missed the really mystical part of the Southwest which lies between Penzance and Lands End. Make another trip.
13
The southwest also has a remarkable climate and therefore some of the most beautiful and interesting gardens--with plants one doesn't normally associate with northern latitudes. Heligan, Caerhays, Trebah, etc. And the Eden project.
17
Andy Haslam's photography is enough.
4
Beautiful areas but try hard not to go in August when the tourist spots listed in this article will be densely crawling with tourists. June is best unless you actually like crowds and tour buses everywhere.
If you want "mystical" my vote would be the many explorable ruined castles of the Scottish Highlands. Wetter but jaw-dropping vast landscapes.
If you want "mystical" my vote would be the many explorable ruined castles of the Scottish Highlands. Wetter but jaw-dropping vast landscapes.
35
Thanks, K. I was thinking June but how is September? I love to travel then.
1
OK in September throughout the British Isles as the schools go back after the summer break, and hence all the local tourists with children. But try Northumberland - more castles than any other area of England or Scotland, wild scenery, Hadrian's Wall (a 75 mile long World Heritage Site) and a little further afield Durham Cathedral, another World Heritage Site.
2
September will still be in holiday season so much will still be open, but once the schools go back after summer break(typically first week of Sept), the traffic should be easier.
Basically avoid school holidays and Bank Holidays and you should be alright, though certain spots are just baaad full-stop.
Basically avoid school holidays and Bank Holidays and you should be alright, though certain spots are just baaad full-stop.
3
The reason for the attraction is simple: the southwest of England contains some of the most beautiful spots I have ever seen in all my travels. Beaches, old fishing towns, deep woods, the ruins of old mining works; Devon and Cornwall have worked their magic on me simply because they are so beautiful. Go there in mid-Spring and explore; you will find places that will make your heart ache.
74
Thanks for your insight Charles. Next time (I went right after Reagan bombed Libya, but before Chenobyl, And I stayed for both!), I might want to get off the continent and come over to your island, because I still don't know any foreign languages, although I learned a little Dutch a little French, Slept in Abandoned warehouse, had an affair worked on a fishing boat in the North Sea.......I like culture
4
I had no idea of this beautiful part of your country! I hope to see this myself in person someday.
6