Great piece Allison. It's your old friend, Matt, from Iowa. Loved this!
1
I went on a land based tour of the Galapagos about 7 yrs ago, organized by my friend who was living in Quito at the time. Had a fabulous stay. We stayed in a 'hotel' that had no one to check us in, variable hot/cold water and the 3rd floor which was still under construction. There was no one there at the hotel, ever. We answered the desk phone at the front desk more for fun, and we came and went as we pleased. No door locks. We were steps from the ocean, and across the street was a a guy who converted his patio to a 'bar' complete with cheesy tiki lights. I learned how to dance Brazilian dances on the beach from a new friend and we stargazed on the incomplete 3rd floor of the hotel getting drunk on the local drink. We walked a mile each way on dirt roads to the house where we were contracted to have our meals. A local woman made us ceviche from that day's catch.
I'm not sure if the tour operator had planned for the stay that way, but I wouldn't have it any other way. It was rough and we loved every second of it.
I'm not sure if the tour operator had planned for the stay that way, but I wouldn't have it any other way. It was rough and we loved every second of it.
Tourism, driven by Ecuador's lust of lucre and the curiosity of humans with money to throw away, is the end of this unique ecological environment. Sic transit gloria naturae ...
2
Darwin was continually seasick on his voyage, and could not pass a meal without extreme nausea. Perhaps he sensed what it all would come to.
3
Watch out! Turtle shells are for protection from predators, not automobiles.
2
My husband and I visited the islands with our son a few years ago. We opted for a land-based trip with the Red Mangrove group, and visited three of the islands. The trips between islands each take several hours via small boat. It was sometimes rough, but the help of scopolamine patches, I didn't get sick at all.
Staying on Floreana in the cabins on the black sand beaches was the highlight of the trip. I've never felt so far from 'civilization' in my life. It was magical. Red Mangrove is definitely not a budget option, but the experience was incredible, and worth the high cost for a once-in-a-lifetime trip. And they are very aware of what your doing and where you're going. I can't imagine how the guide would have freaked out if we had encountered a tourist off the trail and unaccompanied. My impression was that is just not done.
Staying on Floreana in the cabins on the black sand beaches was the highlight of the trip. I've never felt so far from 'civilization' in my life. It was magical. Red Mangrove is definitely not a budget option, but the experience was incredible, and worth the high cost for a once-in-a-lifetime trip. And they are very aware of what your doing and where you're going. I can't imagine how the guide would have freaked out if we had encountered a tourist off the trail and unaccompanied. My impression was that is just not done.
3
I did not know this. It just went on my list.
1
Is it me or am I the only one worried that this turtle will be hit on the road by a motor vehicle? Most likely a tour bus full of tourists.
3
The tortoises mainly live in protected areas. Most are not traveling on roadsides. But the wild tortoises do migrate from the highlands to the lowlands and back at certain times of the year to follow the vegetation. This is actually a recent scientific discovery. When we were there last month, we saw them on back roads, not highways, and noticed that locals are super careful since these are endangered species. But given how recent this finding of a migratory pattern was made, the islands haven't yet figured out tortoise-friendly roads. So, there is one more reason to dislike this reporter's "go it alone" brand of land travel: she is encouraging more road traffic, and more urban development, further endangering the wild tortoises.
2
Hello! You are not the only one who thought, get off the road, tortoise, before someone runs over you.
1
That will never happen,all drivers are very protective of the tortoises...
1
Considering the more "common" places I've traveled and lived in which I've observed were utterly destroyed by increasing population and tourism over the last 30 years, I'm confident that there are certain places, due to their environmental fragility, that are incompatible with tourism. One of them is the Galapagos; another is Antarctica. If there's someplace you want to see but either can't or wouldn't consider going to unless cocooned by the tourist bubble for comfort and safety, it's a pretty good bet the place would be better off without you. Self-absorbed writers like Amend just make it worse by encouraging people to go to places that are diminished by their presence.
12
NYT, and Ms. Amend in particular, as usual have no idea. The 2 weeks I spent on 4 islands of the Galapagos this year were far vibrant, richer. And far less harmful to this fragile environment than what results from the deleterious effects caused by shills for the tourist industry and publishing industry, e.g. Ms. Amend and NYT.
Completely support Mary Ann's comments. Pollution from the 21st Century's biggest 'industry', tourism, can be limited. It takes actively avoiding purveyors of the comfort expected 'back home' in accommodation, restaurants, travel, for the same reasons we visit destinations different than 'back home'. Not only does the tourist bubble suffocate the integrated, authentic experience we would like to take with us for the rest of our lives, it directly damages these often very fragile places.
To know, you gotta go. By all means go, but leave the artifices, preconceptions and coddling you've grown used to behind. As Pogo once said, "We have met the problem, and the problem is US."
Completely support Mary Ann's comments. Pollution from the 21st Century's biggest 'industry', tourism, can be limited. It takes actively avoiding purveyors of the comfort expected 'back home' in accommodation, restaurants, travel, for the same reasons we visit destinations different than 'back home'. Not only does the tourist bubble suffocate the integrated, authentic experience we would like to take with us for the rest of our lives, it directly damages these often very fragile places.
To know, you gotta go. By all means go, but leave the artifices, preconceptions and coddling you've grown used to behind. As Pogo once said, "We have met the problem, and the problem is US."
6
A magical trip a few years ago,it was a privilege to see the islands. The wildlife is stunning,such amazing creatures. I was impressed with the pristine condition of each island I visited,the topography varies from island to island. Each native that we met was unfailingly knowledgeable and very friendly. Go if you can. You can do it on a budget. Be an informed tourist before you arrive.
5
A very enlightening book is "A Short History of Nearly Everything" by Bill Bryson.
Although he believes in evolution, etc. you can highlight almost every page in the book about the chicanery, hoaxes and other kinds of scientific intellectual dishonesty in archaeology, paleontology, biology—even murder!
He states that The Museum of Natural History produced a full-size, diorama of two ape-like creatures with one tenderly holding the shoulder based only on the discovery of a track of footprints!
Are we to trust these false gods, charlatans, and rapscallions of the past and present. The truth is you need more faith in science-and-man than is required for a simple belief in a God.
Robert Baden-Powell, chastised Darwin for not giving sufficient credit to those who had proposed evolutionary theories before him. Darwin reacted by including a "Historical Sketch" which ultimately included 36 names as a preface to later editions of his "Origin."
At Cambridge University, Darwin read the works of William Paley, who argued that the physical world was like a watch: Both are so complex and well-ordered that they could not have come to be randomly but only through the work of an intelligent designer.
Chinese paleontologists have increasingly come to the conclusion that the reason they don't see the transitional forms to the Cambrian phyla is that the transitional forms did not exist.
That's what the empirical evidence shows.
Although he believes in evolution, etc. you can highlight almost every page in the book about the chicanery, hoaxes and other kinds of scientific intellectual dishonesty in archaeology, paleontology, biology—even murder!
He states that The Museum of Natural History produced a full-size, diorama of two ape-like creatures with one tenderly holding the shoulder based only on the discovery of a track of footprints!
Are we to trust these false gods, charlatans, and rapscallions of the past and present. The truth is you need more faith in science-and-man than is required for a simple belief in a God.
Robert Baden-Powell, chastised Darwin for not giving sufficient credit to those who had proposed evolutionary theories before him. Darwin reacted by including a "Historical Sketch" which ultimately included 36 names as a preface to later editions of his "Origin."
At Cambridge University, Darwin read the works of William Paley, who argued that the physical world was like a watch: Both are so complex and well-ordered that they could not have come to be randomly but only through the work of an intelligent designer.
Chinese paleontologists have increasingly come to the conclusion that the reason they don't see the transitional forms to the Cambrian phyla is that the transitional forms did not exist.
That's what the empirical evidence shows.
2
Why should I follow a lie?
On December 9, 2010 in The New York Times science writer Nicolas Wade wrote: "Anthropologists have been thrown into turmoil about the nature and future of their profession after a decision by the American Anthropological Association at its recent annual meeting to strip the word “science” from a statement of its long-range plan.?
A NY Times (March 12, 1961) article, “There Are Neanderthals Among Us” discussed fossil skeletons found in La Chapelle in Europe that turned out to be those of contemporaries who were bent over from bone disease.
In pro-evolutionist Bill Bryson’s best seller, “A Short History of Nearly Everything” he writes about “The American Museum of Natural History Hall of Human Biology and Evolution” in New York that has an absorbing diorama that depicts life-sized creations of a male and female walking side by side across the ancient African plain. The tableau is presented with such conviction that it is easy to overlook the consideration that virtually everything above the footprints is imaginary.”
He asked the curator of the museum and paleoanthropologist, Ian Tattersall, if “he was troubled about the amount of artistic license that was taken in reconstructing the figures,? Tattersall replied, “It’s always a problem in making recreations…We simply can’t know the details of what they looked like… If I had to do it again, I think I might have made them slightly more apelike and less human.”
This is pure bunk!
2
One thing evolution has surely borne out as fact is our ancient ancestors' delight in fruit, specifically cherry picking. Your letters are confirmation this trait can still be observed in modern humans. Astonishing, but true!
22
I just got back 4 days ago from a dive trip there. As I loved my time there thought I wanted to go to other places before I made it back. But after this article, I may be back sooner than later. An amazing place nonetheless, thanks for sharing.
4
I visited the Galápagos Islands as a high school student in the 1970's on a trip organized by my biology teacher. At that time, access to the Islands was restricted to only so many per year, and there were strict rules about where people could go and what they could do. We went along with a group from the Audubon Society, probably 30 people including us. It was an amazing adventure and a profound experience. This morning it was all I could do to read this article without screaming NO NO NO NO! Those islands should be PROTECTED, NOT EXPLOITED!!! What will be next? Galapagos tortoise rides? Swim with the sea lions? A high rise resort on Hood Island, and exclusive bungalows on some of the smaller islands? It makes me thankful I was there when I was, and so sad.
17
In other words, "I was there and I was PURE. All you tainted unworthies stay away!"
9
I want to go back there again. This is a place for observation with limitless time. I visited the place almost 5 years ago with a group of tourists over 100. We never had the time & detail guidance to really enjoy the beauty and nature of the area. We went through there like a typical large tour group in speed and efficiency. In the end, we have been there, but hasn't done nearly enough. I want to go back there with a much smaller group or maybe travel by myself. This time I want to enjoy not just been there & done that.
3
Is this a travel article or PR hype for a forthcoming novel? In any case, I agree with those who are concerned about the future of the Galápagos Islands.
20
How long before the Galapagos fall to the vermin that tourists bring with them, like the Take Mahal, now ravaged by the pollution foreign feet bring
7
It's a good question. I like that some locations have limits to how many visitors can go annually, which I think is a good balance of enjoying, educating and protecting. Wish more would do that, even if it means I cannot ever visit.
Assuming you mean the Taj Mahal. I visited a few years ago and by a long stretch, the majority of visitors were Indian. Are they "foreign feet" because they weren't local from Agra?
Assuming you mean the Taj Mahal. I visited a few years ago and by a long stretch, the majority of visitors were Indian. Are they "foreign feet" because they weren't local from Agra?
1
I can't help but wonder how many people who shook their finger at the author (were annoyed, angry, insulting, etc.) for visiting the Galápagos Islands actually visited the islands themselves. Did they decide that the islands should be off-limits before or after they saw the islands for themselves?
9
Janet read ALL the comments, then decide.
Janet, I wonder if you are willing to mail $100 to the Ecuadorian Government right now? Because that's what my Galapagos park permit cost. Multiply that by tens of thousands of visitors and you have a very efficient way to pay for environmental protection, research, and education throughout not only the Galapagos archipelago but many other lesser-known national parks within Ecuador. So unless you are willing to pay to keep the rest of us away, we are going to go there to learn and to marvel. I don't see anything wrong with my decision and only ask others to the research to travel there in the most environmentally responsible manner. Oh, and by the way, we were there because our daughter had been doing FREE VOLUNTEER field research on the wildlife. So don't expect any apologies for her being there either.
4
The inter-island boats are a complete disaster. One motor stopped working and we had to wait hours for another boat to bring us a part! You'll need strong anti-nausea medication if you take this cramped, extremely rough crossing option.
1
ah yes, the gallapagos.. so pristine.. with a paved road... just like darwin found it.
the place has 20 more years then will be ruined by the greed and the swarming tourists... sad
the place has 20 more years then will be ruined by the greed and the swarming tourists... sad
20
Having visited the Galapagos with our family, it's clear the author has no idea about lower cost, small boat cruises around the islands, and the importance of keeping visitors staying at sea to preserve wildlife and marine life.
Our family of four (with kids) visited the Galapagos on a very small boat with 16 people, and it wasn't some luxury nonsense. Our guide was a local guy from the islands, who valued preserving all aspects of the environment.
Does she not see that stupidly tromping around the environment, she has no idea what's she's destroying for wildlife habitats?
"I didn't get to see "crowd favorites, the blue-footed boobies or the frigate birds, during my week in the Galápagos," but what did she see? She is quite distant from the magnificent wildlife and intent on historical desiccated bodies.
" I also took a hike up the mountain called Cierro Paja. I was encouraged to bring plenty of water and not to stray from the path." Duh! Zero description.
This article should not be in the travel section - take your experiences and write a new novel.
Our family of four (with kids) visited the Galapagos on a very small boat with 16 people, and it wasn't some luxury nonsense. Our guide was a local guy from the islands, who valued preserving all aspects of the environment.
Does she not see that stupidly tromping around the environment, she has no idea what's she's destroying for wildlife habitats?
"I didn't get to see "crowd favorites, the blue-footed boobies or the frigate birds, during my week in the Galápagos," but what did she see? She is quite distant from the magnificent wildlife and intent on historical desiccated bodies.
" I also took a hike up the mountain called Cierro Paja. I was encouraged to bring plenty of water and not to stray from the path." Duh! Zero description.
This article should not be in the travel section - take your experiences and write a new novel.
32
Dreamed about a trip with my wife and son. Do you have more info on the non-luxurious low-cost boat trip you took? I'd love to hear more about how to research and book something similar. Thanks!
2
This is an article that should never have been written for the Times. There is no increasing tourism has had and will continue to have adverse impacts on these fragile ecosystems. There are good reasons why some (few) places on Earth should remain relatively unspoiled and unvisited. The Galapagos is certainly one of them. The cruise ship industry grew and so did its impacts, but they are relatively contained. We don't need budget travel to the Galapagos, to Denali, to game reserves in Southern Africa. Leave these places "alone."
38
great article about a wonderful, magical place... the visitor to this and other such geologic and biologic miracles (e.g., the Grand Canyon, Botswana's game parks, Brooks Falls' salmon jumping into the mouths of hungry bears), in addition to being life-changing experiences, should be asking him/herself: with so much going on for so many millions of years on our planet, just how statistically significant are the changes in climate, sea level, sea temperature, etc. etc. of the last 100 - or even 1000 - years ?... not significant at all is the answer of any thoughtful tourist (and respectable scientist)
Surely you are joking. Surely.
7
not joking... step 1: either travel to the Grand Canyon or simply visualize yourself standing at its edge, looking down... step 2: see/imagine thousands of feet of rock layered beneath you...
step 3: learn that the time represented by those rocks represents billions of years of geologic history, including hundreds/thousands of changes in climate, sea level, etc. ... step 4: realize that the time represented by the last 1000 years is equivalent to the loose dirt your (virtual ?) boots are kicking around as you walk to the edge... step 5: continue learning about earth history; for example, that the latest episode of climate warming began with the end of the last Ice Age about 11,500 years ago, long before climate scientists began scaring the uneducated public about (political) climate change... good luck !
step 3: learn that the time represented by those rocks represents billions of years of geologic history, including hundreds/thousands of changes in climate, sea level, etc. ... step 4: realize that the time represented by the last 1000 years is equivalent to the loose dirt your (virtual ?) boots are kicking around as you walk to the edge... step 5: continue learning about earth history; for example, that the latest episode of climate warming began with the end of the last Ice Age about 11,500 years ago, long before climate scientists began scaring the uneducated public about (political) climate change... good luck !
Jeanne, don't bother feeding the trolls. It appears that "bigoil" (talk about a pseudonym saying it all!!) thinks he is smarter than the hundreds of scientists of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change who have, from around the world, concluded that human activity is without a doubt causing a rapid and exponential increase in global temps.
4
Well, I'm glad someone wrote this article for the newspapaer because, I have been thinking about taking a trip and maybe visiting the Tropics. I have always been very interested in exotic locations, particular when it comes to meeting the natives and seeing their native cultures and wildlife. Plus the tropical food and beverages also, too if it isn't too spicey.
I think I'm gone to cross the Galapagos off my list, I am sad to say mostly because from what I read in this article it doesnt' seem to have any natives. Just Germans and some others, but no real natives. I love it when they talk in their other languages. The other big thing is how you can see most of this on National Geographic.
Plus, that is way too much time on boats for me. the prices for lunch and dinner sound real good but, I dont' like this business of just taking whatever they got on hand that night. you go some places like Mexico and all theyve got is goat or maybe one chicken with spices on it. Its' a good reason almost every smart restaurant here in America has expanded its menu to give more options for customers.
Anyway, the main point is it all looks pretty with their wildlife and whatnot but I wont' be going there anytime soon. and there is no way you are going to get me in one of those snorkel outfits. I've seen them and, they look ignernt on people. How do people even see out of those glasses and still try to keep that breathing thing going? And swim at the same time?
sincerely,
David Terry
I think I'm gone to cross the Galapagos off my list, I am sad to say mostly because from what I read in this article it doesnt' seem to have any natives. Just Germans and some others, but no real natives. I love it when they talk in their other languages. The other big thing is how you can see most of this on National Geographic.
Plus, that is way too much time on boats for me. the prices for lunch and dinner sound real good but, I dont' like this business of just taking whatever they got on hand that night. you go some places like Mexico and all theyve got is goat or maybe one chicken with spices on it. Its' a good reason almost every smart restaurant here in America has expanded its menu to give more options for customers.
Anyway, the main point is it all looks pretty with their wildlife and whatnot but I wont' be going there anytime soon. and there is no way you are going to get me in one of those snorkel outfits. I've seen them and, they look ignernt on people. How do people even see out of those glasses and still try to keep that breathing thing going? And swim at the same time?
sincerely,
David Terry
8
I'm pretty sure that the Galapagos is the Galapagos BECAUSE there were no natives. If the Polynesians had made it, with their pigs and other animals, most of the unique species would have been wiped out in a generation.
So, Dave, there's plenty of native cultural options in the Pacific Islands, but there's only one Galapagos, and lucky for us that it's still there.
So, Dave, there's plenty of native cultural options in the Pacific Islands, but there's only one Galapagos, and lucky for us that it's still there.
10
The author was very misleading about who lives on the islands. Only 5 of 19 are inhabited. The majority are either a mix of native South AmericanIndians and Spanish descendant Ecuadorian, or else Spanish descendant Ecuadorian.
The reason to visit the Galapagos is for the science and wildlife. There are better places in Central and South A,Erica to visit if your goal are native cultures.
The reason to visit the Galapagos is for the science and wildlife. There are better places in Central and South A,Erica to visit if your goal are native cultures.
1
Go to Madagascar , go to where wild life and native people live . Stay away from big cities , where people people think they are more European ( French ) than European people.
Ecuador, one of the better countries in the world so far as natural resource protection and park operation are concerned, have the rules they have for the Galapagos Islands for very good reasons. An arrogant, self possessed, scofflaw writer who hasn't a clue needs to stay away from such valued places. Hopefully, if he pulls such stunts again, he will be arrested.
He reminds me of a certain segment of the U.S. population that claims that government and rules are infringements of personal liberty, and that claiming public land for themselves as a certain crew did at an Oregon wildlife refuge is appropriate.
He reminds me of a certain segment of the U.S. population that claims that government and rules are infringements of personal liberty, and that claiming public land for themselves as a certain crew did at an Oregon wildlife refuge is appropriate.
42
Will too-rich industrialized-country people ever learn? If you love a delicate, wild natural wonder of the world, DON'T GO THERE. Leave the Galapagos, Antarctica and other sensitive areas alone; and don't burn hundreds of gallons of jet fuel to get there. Should be obvious, no?
52
"$500-a-night eco-luxury resorts" touted on a trip "that won’t break your budget"? (Another virtual, but apparently inadvertent, self-parody!)
WHOSE budgets are those? There ARE some actual middle-class readers of this paper, you know!
WHOSE budgets are those? There ARE some actual middle-class readers of this paper, you know!
17
She didn't "tout" them - she was just mentioning what was there. She did in fact do a budget trip. Calm down.
4
I highly recommend the website of the Galapagos Conservancy. It is excellent for educational resources, for armchair travelers and critical for people who want to donate to some of the best conservation work and scientific studies.
If you travel to the Galapagos, please consider sharing your photos and educational materials with schoolchildren in your region. It is remarkable watching students perk up when they realize how scientists linked differences in habitats and vegetation to the subspecies developments on various islands. Teachers and parents tell me many of the youngsters I saw in classrooms started doing computer searches for weeks about animal species development, conservation and also some of the unique geology of the Galápagos Islands.
If you travel to the Galapagos, please consider sharing your photos and educational materials with schoolchildren in your region. It is remarkable watching students perk up when they realize how scientists linked differences in habitats and vegetation to the subspecies developments on various islands. Teachers and parents tell me many of the youngsters I saw in classrooms started doing computer searches for weeks about animal species development, conservation and also some of the unique geology of the Galápagos Islands.
13
Jean, you are so knowledgeable about The Islands--YOU should write a Travel Piece for The New York Times!
3
Please leave the Galápagos Islands alone. The fact that prices have dropped so significantly has brought this trip within reach of the masses. While I am never in favor of restricting travel to just the elites, I am very much in favor of preserving unique natural habitats. The reduction in price should drive demand for travel up, this can only have a negative impact on the natural wonder that is the Galápagos Islands. That tourist travel to the Galápagos Islands has grown by 500% over the last 25 years is not something to be celebrated. Even worse is the fact that this increase in tourism has driven a 300% increase in human population on the islands.
Please, if you really want to celebrate the Galápagos Islands, do it by staying away.
Please, if you really want to celebrate the Galápagos Islands, do it by staying away.
37
I have read the comments to this article and while many have responded to the absurdity of one of the implied points of the article that massive land based tourism of the Galapagos could ever be compatible with the pristine ecology of the islands no one has addressed the other absurd point of the article.
Affordability. In general when I see the word affordable in an article I have to think it would be within the budget of most of the readers of the article. To consider the trip in this article to be affordable presumes an upper middle class readership which can afford plane fares to the Galapagos and the time to get there. Perhaps this article says more about the elitism of the NYT average reader than it intended.
Affordability. In general when I see the word affordable in an article I have to think it would be within the budget of most of the readers of the article. To consider the trip in this article to be affordable presumes an upper middle class readership which can afford plane fares to the Galapagos and the time to get there. Perhaps this article says more about the elitism of the NYT average reader than it intended.
8
Truly remote places in the world will never be fast, easy, and usually not cheap to reach.
8
Not true, except for "fast". Fast travel, fast food, fast culture.
Truly remote places can be accessed and far better appreciated not with money. With time. Take the time. It's worth it.
Fast anything is for fools.
Truly remote places can be accessed and far better appreciated not with money. With time. Take the time. It's worth it.
Fast anything is for fools.
Much of the destruction of the Galapagos happened before the growth of tourism that started in the 60s-70s. The tourism has directly/indirectly funded the preservation and conservation efforts and encouraged the protective laws. There are many policies in place to maintain the environment in its current condition and fix some of the prior mistakes (the 1850s goats were only recently eradicated). The traditional island industries of fishing and ranching are clearly worse than the tourism.
However, the author, who seemed to think it was OK to break the rules, clearly supports the argument of those who generalize that eco-tourism is harmful no matter how it is regulated. I doubt the author realized the damage that can be done, especially when multiplied by thousands of tourists. No one should be using those trails without a proper guide. The guides on the islands are very responsible and the trails are intentionally restricted to protect the environment.
Probably the best way to help the Galapagos is to donate money to the Darwin Research Center (its a conservation organization which cooperates with the government). However, the tourism dollars are an important part of the equation and being a responsible tourist is probably of net benefit.
However, the author, who seemed to think it was OK to break the rules, clearly supports the argument of those who generalize that eco-tourism is harmful no matter how it is regulated. I doubt the author realized the damage that can be done, especially when multiplied by thousands of tourists. No one should be using those trails without a proper guide. The guides on the islands are very responsible and the trails are intentionally restricted to protect the environment.
Probably the best way to help the Galapagos is to donate money to the Darwin Research Center (its a conservation organization which cooperates with the government). However, the tourism dollars are an important part of the equation and being a responsible tourist is probably of net benefit.
40
I am native Ecuadorian and the 4th Nationally Licensed guide in Ecuador and have toured the Galapagos and the mainland for 24 years. Please read a second time the above letter from GregoryD because it is one of the few here that makes sense and is correct. Controlled tourism is good for the Galapagos overall. I have lived and worked through the decades as Galapagos tourism evolved. Controlled tourism has helped preserve the Galapagos much as controlled animal hunting has preserved animals in Africa and the United States. So many who write here are knee jerk, uneducated on this subject, people. If you can afford it, and it is expensive, come experience the Galapagos BEFORE commenting.
18
As a guide for 24 years here in mainland Ecuador and the Galapagos I encourage each of you to readGregoryD's letter above several times because he is spot on. Controlled tourism has benefited the Galapagos and will continue to do so in my opinion. I have watched the money and the exposure of the Galapagos to the world benefit it and the habitat. An analogy can be made to controlled hunting in Africa and North America benefitting the animals. Too many of you who write here don't know what you are talking about and should visit the Galapagos before making judgements.
4
One more suggestion for the "what to bring" guide: a wetsuit and fins if you're snorkeling, as the water in the Galapagos can be chilly. We'd arranged (we thought!) to rent from the available wetsuits on board our 18 passenger boat -- turns out there were just 2 suits aboard, the crew had no idea we'd "reserved" them, and although luckily no one else was expecting to wear them, they didn't fit us very well. They were still better than nothing and allowed us to stay in the water for much longer than I would've been able to tolerate otherwise. I've subsequently purchased an inexpensive (<$100) shorty to wear for snorkeling and it's earned its real estate in my luggage on each trip.
Glad I visited more than 30 years ago - that trip is something I will always remember especially swiming with the sea lions.
3
So proud to see other commenters noting the callousness, with which the writer wrote about visiting these special islands. Rules a there for a reason, in the Galapagos, a guide is required for every 16 people, which enhances the experience and protects the environment. As an avid traveller, people who ignore the rules, because they are 'special', just annoy me.
48
Eco tourism has its place. You are missing so much of the reason for the trip if you don't visit the Darwin Research Station, if you don't see the blue-footed boobie birds, if you miss the frigate birds with wingspans of 6-8 feet and a red blotch on males that inflates to football size when courting, or if you don't snorkel with tame, curious sea lions that come right up to your mask.
I will never forget visiting a mangrove island where sea lions nap on tree branches above the water, sea turtles swim in the coves around them and penguins perch on rocks.
Boat trips with bona fide naturalists are critical. All "real" naturalist guides in the Galapagos trained at Darwin Research station. Overnight boat trips are the only way to see some sights.
People who shun cruise ships or at least large ones will be p,eased to know that no boat will take more than 125 passengers, and many far fewer. On a boat of 125 passengers, you can expect about 7 wonderfully trained full time naturalists, who will lecture between ports, and lead small group outings. So you will get an atypical experience even aboard such boats.
Incidentally, if you travel there, it is considerate to make a donation to Darwin Research Station to help offset some of your human footprint. Also, in remote island societies, people will be grateful if you give to villagers some of your clothing ( your closet excess!).
I will never forget visiting a mangrove island where sea lions nap on tree branches above the water, sea turtles swim in the coves around them and penguins perch on rocks.
Boat trips with bona fide naturalists are critical. All "real" naturalist guides in the Galapagos trained at Darwin Research station. Overnight boat trips are the only way to see some sights.
People who shun cruise ships or at least large ones will be p,eased to know that no boat will take more than 125 passengers, and many far fewer. On a boat of 125 passengers, you can expect about 7 wonderfully trained full time naturalists, who will lecture between ports, and lead small group outings. So you will get an atypical experience even aboard such boats.
Incidentally, if you travel there, it is considerate to make a donation to Darwin Research Station to help offset some of your human footprint. Also, in remote island societies, people will be grateful if you give to villagers some of your clothing ( your closet excess!).
20
My mother was born in Guayaquil, Ecuador in the 1930's and I have visited & lived in Ecuador several times.
What is amazing is that The Locals, themselves, (and me) have never visit The Islands! (Just like Parisians do not go up The Eiffel Tower nor New Yorkers to The Statue of Liberty?)
When my mother was a child, she heard "rumors" that The Galapagos were used to house dangerous prisoners--perhaps a practical tale to keep The Islands pristine?
Whatever the case, if you ARE a tourist to these Little Gem Islands then why the huge cruise ship? And above all WHY the emphasis on AIR CONDITIONING in the rooms!!! You are in The Tropics--ACCLIMATE for Chrissakes!
I appreciate how the author travelled overland and melded with The Locals.
I will visit "someday" and plan to travel as I always have--like the locals--via HOT
UN-AIR-CONDITIONED busses (with no toilets), small boats or canoes. I will endure the sprays & vaccines without a peep and speak in The Local Tongue as best as possible.
And if these get too uncomfortable for me, then I'll just STAY HOME in my AC HOME & watch a Nat Geo Video!!!
What is amazing is that The Locals, themselves, (and me) have never visit The Islands! (Just like Parisians do not go up The Eiffel Tower nor New Yorkers to The Statue of Liberty?)
When my mother was a child, she heard "rumors" that The Galapagos were used to house dangerous prisoners--perhaps a practical tale to keep The Islands pristine?
Whatever the case, if you ARE a tourist to these Little Gem Islands then why the huge cruise ship? And above all WHY the emphasis on AIR CONDITIONING in the rooms!!! You are in The Tropics--ACCLIMATE for Chrissakes!
I appreciate how the author travelled overland and melded with The Locals.
I will visit "someday" and plan to travel as I always have--like the locals--via HOT
UN-AIR-CONDITIONED busses (with no toilets), small boats or canoes. I will endure the sprays & vaccines without a peep and speak in The Local Tongue as best as possible.
And if these get too uncomfortable for me, then I'll just STAY HOME in my AC HOME & watch a Nat Geo Video!!!
14
Excellent points Jean. Whenever I travel to Ecuador I pack my suitcase with extra shoes & clothes--to DONATE--not WEAR!
1
As someone who has spent the past 13 years in the Galapagos, this article condemns everything I work for. There is a reason that the land-based tourism to minimize cost is frowned on. You create absurd amounts of waste, and spend nowhere near enough money to cover the cost that it takes to actually dispose of it safely and properly, leaving the dirty work to the people trying to protect the pristine national park. Furthermore, guides are required to keep tourists from destroying the environment they know nothing about. Who knows how many iguana or finch nests you trampled on your illegal excursions? Every year, a few tourists wander off without guides and end up dead, another problem for the government to deal with. Leave the islands in peace. They cannot handle this type of reckless and thoughtless tourism. You are not following in Darwin's footsteps, he left none.
155
Your comment should be published as a letter to the editor. It's too important to be only an electronic comment.
18
Took the words right out of my mouth. The only reason the Ecuadoran government easing up on travel restrictions is because they need the cash.
13
Perhaps this will seem silly?.....but I KNOW that certain monasteries don't welcome/accept "visitors", and I KNOW that JD Salinger and Harper Lee would rather not be intruded upon.......and I KNOW that the fox who is raising three kits in my back yard's chicken coop this past Spring wants to be left alone (and, yes, this is true; I live in a 220 year old house North Carolina). So?...I leave them alone, and I'm simply happy to know that they exist. (p.s.....I know....Salinger and Lee are recently dead, but I hope my point still stands). I find it comforting to know that at least some things are left to just be themselves in this age. I would never visit the Galapgos, but I'm grateful to know as much of the islands as I do, courtesy of National Geographic, etcetera. Quite sincerely, david terry
6
"Take only pictures,
leave only foot prints."
leave only foot prints."
15
I have always wanted to go to the Galápagos Islands but have only read that the ships that travel there do more damage than good.
I will enjoy the National Geographic & PBS Nature programs and leave this unique environment alone.
Next fall: Maine!
I will enjoy the National Geographic & PBS Nature programs and leave this unique environment alone.
Next fall: Maine!
16
Bravo if you can enjoy exotic armchair travel via books and documentaries, and if you explore closer to home. (Every lengthy plane trip does environmental damage. Let's not kid ourselves.)
But be assured that National Geographic itself would not run one of the best passenger boat expedition services (housing people aboard for a week) if they could not do so in an ecologically responsible manner.
I longed to travel there for three decades before I finally decided it was one of the three distant places on the globe I still wanted to see in my lifetime. I have made certain to donate to scientists working there for the years since I finally took that trip.
Know your heart, use your ethics and mind to be responsible if you travel there, support the scientists, take some supplies to the villagers living there, leave your Epi pens with island naturalists --to help others who have emergencies after you leave the islands. Most of all, upon return from the travel, go to Boy Scout, Girl Scout and school groups. Bring science and geography lessons alive for the youth by sharing some of your photos and information! And teach them about how that fragile environment and animal life is being affected by global warming!
But be assured that National Geographic itself would not run one of the best passenger boat expedition services (housing people aboard for a week) if they could not do so in an ecologically responsible manner.
I longed to travel there for three decades before I finally decided it was one of the three distant places on the globe I still wanted to see in my lifetime. I have made certain to donate to scientists working there for the years since I finally took that trip.
Know your heart, use your ethics and mind to be responsible if you travel there, support the scientists, take some supplies to the villagers living there, leave your Epi pens with island naturalists --to help others who have emergencies after you leave the islands. Most of all, upon return from the travel, go to Boy Scout, Girl Scout and school groups. Bring science and geography lessons alive for the youth by sharing some of your photos and information! And teach them about how that fragile environment and animal life is being affected by global warming!
8
Been there, done that, on the world's largest tri-moran several years ago. Nancy and I have travelled the world together, snorkeling in almost every venue from the Great Barrier Reef to the Galagos. We have now been to Africa three times in four nations, so it is difficult to compare a chain of islands with the world's largest continent, but other than Africa, it was the most interesting trip of all especially since the Great Barrier reef has been losing so much of its beauty as a result of global warming. Having been there twice, almost forty years apart, it was not hard to see how it has lost so much of its beauty.
4
If there was ever a distinction between theme parks and national parks, it faded long ago. But one thing we know about parks of any kind: as they become more popular, visitor demographics shift. As demographics shift, expectations change. As expectations change, park operators and their allies develop new 'attractions.' You can never see the Galapagos Darwin saw. You probably wouldn't want to. Read his description (5 weeks' worth) in the context of the HMS Beagle circumnavigation (5 years) here: http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/944
4
This article not only has a few factual errors, it seems to hint that land travelers should feel free to explore sights on their own, such as the reference to visiting the National Park without a guide. I also wonder why the author was eating fresh fish caught on a snorkel trip--didn't think that was allowed in a national marine wildlife sanctuary (aside from the idiocy of fishing around reef and tiger sharks). I just got back from one of those expensive Galapagos boat tours where I was impressed by the care and attention our naturalist guides took to protect the wildlife and ensure we didn't despoil a national park. Our $100 park fee not only maintains ecological protection of the Galapagos, it's used to support lesser known parks throughout the country. While boat tourism is strictly regulated, with every ship and every itinerary approved in advance, land tourism is not regulated and is harder to control. And public safety personnel would rather focus on the needs of their compatriots than some dumb tourist who decides to hike a volcano and needs rescuing.
59
The athletically inclined would enjoy the REI Adventure tour of Galapagos. This hiking, kayaking, cycling and snorkeling trip is land-based, challenging, and eco-sensitive. Lodging is good, and the itinerary is ambitious. It remains one of the best trips I've ever taken. Bon voyage!!
4
Thanks michaelsnorkel...will look into it for sure!!!
To those wondering about the impact of tourism on the Galapagos ecosystem, you have to hear the whole story before drawing conclusions, which I can hardly begin to tell.
We had the accidental good fortune of spending multiple days with two of the most respected scientists in the Galapagos, due to a research ship breakdown and tow. And our naturalist guide was a descendant of one of the early European settler families.
Through massive efforts by scientists, government and NGOs, huge populations of goats, pigs, cats and rats introduced by pirates and settlers and tbat represent the biggest threat to the ecosystem, have been eradicated from most of the islands and breeding programs restore endangered sub species. The effort is ongoing and tourist spending and fees help to fund that work. Wages for the local workers are four times higher than the mainland, which requires restricting mainland immigration to the islands.
Tourist impact is better managed than anywhere else we have ever been, including extensive training of naturalists and highly regulated cruise itineraries.
Of course, the biggest threat is climate, both cyclical and long term change. Species have adapted to cyclical changes, but ocean warming impacts nutrient upwelling that drives the system.
So it turns out that the biggest impact to the Galapagos is what we do at home, including who we vote for as President.
We had the accidental good fortune of spending multiple days with two of the most respected scientists in the Galapagos, due to a research ship breakdown and tow. And our naturalist guide was a descendant of one of the early European settler families.
Through massive efforts by scientists, government and NGOs, huge populations of goats, pigs, cats and rats introduced by pirates and settlers and tbat represent the biggest threat to the ecosystem, have been eradicated from most of the islands and breeding programs restore endangered sub species. The effort is ongoing and tourist spending and fees help to fund that work. Wages for the local workers are four times higher than the mainland, which requires restricting mainland immigration to the islands.
Tourist impact is better managed than anywhere else we have ever been, including extensive training of naturalists and highly regulated cruise itineraries.
Of course, the biggest threat is climate, both cyclical and long term change. Species have adapted to cyclical changes, but ocean warming impacts nutrient upwelling that drives the system.
So it turns out that the biggest impact to the Galapagos is what we do at home, including who we vote for as President.
76
You are correct that the human impact is very well regulated. Also, cruise ships are small and the authorities carefully time how many hours a week any island can be visited--and under what condition--to protect the wild life and environment. The ships are extremely ecologically conscious.
This is one of the ultimate wildlife trips of the world.
This is one of the ultimate wildlife trips of the world.
2
I worked at the Darwin Station for 4 years. The biggest threat is alien invasive species - who find it easier and easier to make it to the islands thanks the the increasing number of flights and cargo ships going to take more and more tourists, and to bring supplies.
2
"But you won’t see much wildlife on Santa Cruz beyond the occasional sea turtle or Sally Lightfoot crab, maybe an iguana sunning on the beach, or a sea lion family frolicking nearby."
Among many other species easily found on Santa Cruz are the sharks and rays swimming beneath the lighted Puerto Ayora pier at night, the land tortoises in the Reserve, marine and land iguanas everywhere, the huge brown pelicans, frigate birds and sea lions jostling the workers at the PA fish station for scraps, different kinds of herons and other shore birds on the local beaches, snorkeling trips around the island and so on.
You can take a long walk from PA town to Tortuga Bay, a protected and most beautiful beach teeming with wildlife.
Many international and most Ecuadorian tourists spend a week or two without ever leaving Santa Cruz Island except on a day boat trip, having the time of their lives.
If you want to book a cruise and save a lot of money, it's easier done on line before you leave home, when you can pay with a credit card.
http://www.galapagosparadise-dreams.com
Among many other species easily found on Santa Cruz are the sharks and rays swimming beneath the lighted Puerto Ayora pier at night, the land tortoises in the Reserve, marine and land iguanas everywhere, the huge brown pelicans, frigate birds and sea lions jostling the workers at the PA fish station for scraps, different kinds of herons and other shore birds on the local beaches, snorkeling trips around the island and so on.
You can take a long walk from PA town to Tortuga Bay, a protected and most beautiful beach teeming with wildlife.
Many international and most Ecuadorian tourists spend a week or two without ever leaving Santa Cruz Island except on a day boat trip, having the time of their lives.
If you want to book a cruise and save a lot of money, it's easier done on line before you leave home, when you can pay with a credit card.
http://www.galapagosparadise-dreams.com
7
Another "How To" ruin yet another unspoiled piece of natural ecology. Marketing tourists to despoil tiny vestiges of places for animals to do what they've done for millenia until the Western world descends upon them is hardly climate change, species extinction or environmentally conscious. Why do we let tourism change history, culture & even the face of the land & sea? (A rhetorical question. we all know it's about money: how to get it & how to flash it about in your neighbours' faces.)
71
Agree. I was horrified when I read "technically it's a national park so you should be accompanied by a guide, but I went three times by myself and was questioned only once." Malignantly irresponsible and self absorbed.
91
When I visited, I was surprised at how many people were living there! There are thousands of Ecuadorians who were born and live on these islands. The Ecuadorian government no longer allows anyone to move to the Galapagos permanently, but there are still thousands of inhabitants who need employment. Tourism provides economic incentives for inhabitants to move away from more environmentally damaging activities like farming and fishing. Sure, tourism isn't without its faults, but at this point, the ecological health of the islands is on an upswing from a damaging past, and community involvement in tourism is a major reason for this.
5
It's ALL about tourism everywhere today. All dollars, no sense.
Where hasn't heavy tourism destroyed a locale or habitat?
Cruise ships have the worst impact. Hate 'em.
Where hasn't heavy tourism destroyed a locale or habitat?
Cruise ships have the worst impact. Hate 'em.
9
"Technically it’s national parkland, so you’re not allowed there without a guide, but I went several times and was questioned only once."
"Technically these primitives have a bunch of rules and stuff about their country, but fortunately my privilege was only troubled on one occasion and I managed to ignore those rules almost completely. On a budget! So I hope thousands more of you come every year to flout their regulations!"
"Technically these primitives have a bunch of rules and stuff about their country, but fortunately my privilege was only troubled on one occasion and I managed to ignore those rules almost completely. On a budget! So I hope thousands more of you come every year to flout their regulations!"
135
I have reservations about eco-tourism. We humans have done an excellent job of trashing the planet. Do we really need to put our huge footprint in the Galapagos?
35
Huge footprint, no. If you want to better understand Darwin's work, if you visit his specimen exhibits at the natural history museum in London, if you enjoy educating others about science--then by all means don't miss this most unique place on earth!
If you expect nightlife and entertainment and Zagat rated meals, skip it!
If you expect nightlife and entertainment and Zagat rated meals, skip it!
1
Being and avid diver I spent 10 days on a "live aboard" dive vessel. We sailed to all of the islands where we dove the waters around each and also did shore excursions spending time hiking and seeing the native fauna and wild life.
I could not see going to these amazing islands and only doing a land based trip.
The marine life is truly amazing with these islands being famous for the pelagics. We were not disappointed enjoying numerous encounters with whale sharks, hammer heads, Galapagos sharks, manta's, schools of dolphins, etc. The one caveat I would mention is the diving there can be challenging with up and down wellings, deep dives, all drift dives and all dives from zodiacs. Also get your nitrox certification before going, it will help.
I could not see going to these amazing islands and only doing a land based trip.
The marine life is truly amazing with these islands being famous for the pelagics. We were not disappointed enjoying numerous encounters with whale sharks, hammer heads, Galapagos sharks, manta's, schools of dolphins, etc. The one caveat I would mention is the diving there can be challenging with up and down wellings, deep dives, all drift dives and all dives from zodiacs. Also get your nitrox certification before going, it will help.
13
I did a tour on a small boat, 10 passengers. While we experienced amazing flora and fauna, overall it was disappointing in terms of the human element. As with much of the world, the islands have become almost completely commercialized and a cash cow for Ecuador. One thing I would strongly advise is NOT going on a large boat. Some of the bigger ones carry hundreds of passengers, who are shuttled on and off in brief shifts. The sight of a semi-giant liner anchored in what should be a secluded cove was disheartening. Our local guides were horrible and spent most of their time flirting with female tourists, even during excursions around some of the islands. It didn't help that the boat crew stole valuables from passengers. If I were to do it again, I'd travel with a non-local outfit that brings in true experts and travels to some of the more remote islands. It would be expensive, but this is one place that rates splurging.
13
Un-Cruise is a Seattle based company that does small boat adventure cruises right. On our Alaska and Hawaii trips with them we found their crew to be genuinely devoted to giving us a wonderful experience. Our naturalist guides were excellent. We were impressed by their environmentally responsible policies, and their relationships with local partners. They now have Galápagos trips on the Ecuadorian 48 passenger boat La Pinta. Expensive for us tourists yes, but worth to contribute to the preservation these fragile islands
2
Wow Steve. Sorry you had such a miserable time in such a beautiful place. I went on one of the largest ships allowed in the Galapagos, the National Geographic Endeavour. It carries all of 96 passengers. Their guides are park-certified naturalists, most of whom have at least a Bachelor's degree in a related field. And they do the Galapagos the right way.
1
I lived and worked in Ecuador for 5+ years (2002-2007), where I led a large USAID-funded economic reforms project. Indeed, one of our activities was to spur eco-friendly land-based tourism in the Galapagos. The focus of that particular activity was the Villamil area at the southern end of Isabella, the largest island. I was looking for info in this article about Isabella but see that the author got to some of the other islands but not Isabella. For what it's worth, I recommend a stay in Villamil. Look it up. We used to stay at the Casa de Marita, well worth it. Of course, ALL of the Galapagos is fascinating.
4
I worked for UNESCO's World Heritage Centre for 11 years and the Galapagos were in my portfolio of sites to monitor. The intergovernmental World Heritage Committee most recently flagged tourism growth, and the absence of a strategy, as a major concern to the conservation of the islands. While ship based tourism is strictly managed (available berths have not substantially increased in the past 20 years), land based tourism, once responsible for 5,000 visitors a year in the late 1990's, has exploded to nearly 200,000 per year. This feeds an increase in the arrival of alien species, responsible for the demise of local species. Thankfully, land based visitors are restricted to visiting only places near the inhabited islands, while the more remote places are spared the onslaught.
35
Marco, very accurate, except for the figures- It ios not 200,000 visitors land based, but TOTAL. It is not only visitors but anybody travelling to Galapagos who is not a permanent resident. That includes about 65,000 Ecuadorians, many of whom fly to the islands, because they have a family, or business there- not tourists. 75,000 visitors are all you get in ONE YEAR inside the National Park (a surface of 7700km2).
3
About ten or twelve years ago, I had two of my (unrelated) customers (I am a barber) take trips to the Galapagos about a week apart. Both went to Post Office Bay. The first dropped off a postcard addressed to my shop; the second, while riffing through out-going mail, was amazed to find a card to be delivered to his own barber, in his own home town. I am the proud owner of that post card, and what may well be one of the fastest deliveries of mail through that quaint island barrel.
14
We are daily being alarmed by the promiscuous waste of carbon energy which causes global warming and you go to the Galapagos?
23
I appreciate your sensitivity to " carbon footprint". That is why, when possible, it is sensible to combine the trip with Ecuador Amazon or jungle viewing, too! Fly fewer jets!
4
As an ecologist and an avid traveler, the Galapagos have been on the top of my travel bucket list for a long time. However, it worries me greatly when I read pieces like this because I wonder how many people will suddenly flock to these relatively unexplored places and change it for the worse. Those who have been to places like Thailand, Indonesia, etc. know how much they have changed over the past 30 years. Bali, particularly the Kuta area, is so Westernized that it does not even feel like you are in a different culture. I hope that Ecuador implemenst a maximum cap for the number of tourists they will have at any given time to limit the amount of damage people could do to the delicate ecosystem.
As an ecologist, it always worries me when travel articles promote places for their natural aesthetics and wildlife. People, on the whole, are not known to be very mindful about the environment. The Great Barrier Reef, before getting battered by consistent episodes of bleaching, is a prime example. When tourists went there by the droves, as they still do, the reefs closest inland have been damaged by people standing on them, breaking off pieces, touching them, tringy to take some home for souvenirs, etc. The inland reef is almost decimated and tour companies take people further and further out for pristine reefs. I think travel articles should always tell travelers what to be mindful of when they go somewhere and how vulnerable a place could be, not just how pretty a place is.
As an ecologist, it always worries me when travel articles promote places for their natural aesthetics and wildlife. People, on the whole, are not known to be very mindful about the environment. The Great Barrier Reef, before getting battered by consistent episodes of bleaching, is a prime example. When tourists went there by the droves, as they still do, the reefs closest inland have been damaged by people standing on them, breaking off pieces, touching them, tringy to take some home for souvenirs, etc. The inland reef is almost decimated and tour companies take people further and further out for pristine reefs. I think travel articles should always tell travelers what to be mindful of when they go somewhere and how vulnerable a place could be, not just how pretty a place is.
92
Tourism is responsible for downgrading a number of places worldwide. I believe however, it has helped Galapagos a lot. It is critical to understand some of the statistics. The archipelago consists of 19-plus islands/islets with a land mass of 8,000km2, and a marine reserve of 133,000km2. 97% of the land surface and 100% of the marine area are protected. in the remaining 3% (of 8,000 km2) you have a small human population spread among 4 inhabited islands with a population of about 26,000 people. When you read that 200,000-people travelled to Galapagos, you should know that two-thirds stayed in the 3% of land that is NOT the National Park. There you have hotels, restaurants, farms, etc. About 75,000 people per year travel on small yachts into the archipelago´s National Park.
And those 2/3 stayed where there is no sewage treatment (unlike yachts and ships with onboard wastewater treatment), where there is no effective control of when and where you can go (Park does not have staff to babysit all those tourists), where invasive species are easy to introduce (only now there are 4 (only 4!) dogs being trained to sniff for select invaders at airports (2) and ports (several)), where tourists have no understanding of how trash and waste is managed and that 90 % of everything they use and consume is imported. Contrary to what one might think, land-based stays have more negative impacts on Galapagos than boat-based trips.
Few people donate more money than their Park fee, which is now spilt among all Ecuador parks and never is sufficient to offset a person's visit (invasive species detection and control, Park warden salaries, scanning for smuggled iguanas, patrolling for illegal fishing, etc.).
Few people donate more money than their Park fee, which is now spilt among all Ecuador parks and never is sufficient to offset a person's visit (invasive species detection and control, Park warden salaries, scanning for smuggled iguanas, patrolling for illegal fishing, etc.).
Thanks for all of the detail. This is my one and only bucket list trip, which I have been putting off until 2019 when I retire. I had thought being on a small ship would allow me to see more of the islands, but by the sound of it, I need to revisit that assumption.
7
Small ship guide quality very uneven. Tauk, National Geographic, and amazingly the only small Celebrity Cruises boat all have multiple superbly trained naturalists aboard and with you.
And as for another reader 's comments about cruise ship boat size: no boat in the region is allowed to carry more than 125 passengers. They all do own wastewater treatment aboard, etc. to protect that fragile environment. For some travelers, that type of control of food sanitation, water quality, availability of onboard ship physician and provision of all snorkel/ scuba equipment makes sense. Not every person is of age or health for which the author's type of experience would work.
And as for another reader 's comments about cruise ship boat size: no boat in the region is allowed to carry more than 125 passengers. They all do own wastewater treatment aboard, etc. to protect that fragile environment. For some travelers, that type of control of food sanitation, water quality, availability of onboard ship physician and provision of all snorkel/ scuba equipment makes sense. Not every person is of age or health for which the author's type of experience would work.
5
Try Overseas Adventure Travel based in Boston; took 2 weeks trip with them to Ecuador and Galapagos; one of the best trips of my life. Their groups are between 12-16, never more. If you go, you can use my traveler number and get a small discount (#910306N); we usually do not like group travel but we have done 9 trips with them and they are amazing.
3
"Technically it’s national parkland, so you’re not allowed there without a guide, but I went several times and was questioned only once...." And arriving airline passengers being sprayed to ward off invasive critters constitutes a "dubious welcome". OK, I get it. The NYT travel writer brags about breaking a basic rule to protect the ecosystem, and doesn't want to be inconvenienced by a silly spraying precaution taken by a poor government to try to actually keep the native animals alive. Obviously, the convenience of tourists outweighs the importance of keeping the ecosystem in existence. Can't there be one tiny place on the whole planet that can be left to the animals? I wish we could ask Charles Darwin.
125
Terrific piece. Do you know the poem by the late James Tate, The Blue Booby? My poem in response (only part of it fits here) touches on a number of the environmental and tourist issues you report. (copyright MJ Jerome)
The Blue Booby
as you showed us, James Tate, lives on the bare rocks
of the Galapagos and fears nothing. But it should,
dear James, and I blame you for this predicament. I wish we could go together now to that volcanic
archipelago of Darwin finches and giant tortoises
to clean up the mess you made. For years too remote,
now teenage environmental voluntourists fly there to beef up college applications and practice
high school Spanish. And this is the dangerous part —
they leave bits of 21st century blue — Goya juice boxes
King Kong chocotejas wrappers —for the boobies to make their love nests. It’s all very romantic, except
as you must know now, Jim, in omniscient heaven and should regret, the boobies don’t collect blue things for mating rituals.The satin bowerbirds from Australia have the blue fetish. But that doesn’t stop Josh and Ashley,
those emo kids from Ridgewood High. They climb the rocks on Seymore Island and scream your famous poem to the waves...
(excerpted from poem by MJ Jerome)
The Blue Booby
as you showed us, James Tate, lives on the bare rocks
of the Galapagos and fears nothing. But it should,
dear James, and I blame you for this predicament. I wish we could go together now to that volcanic
archipelago of Darwin finches and giant tortoises
to clean up the mess you made. For years too remote,
now teenage environmental voluntourists fly there to beef up college applications and practice
high school Spanish. And this is the dangerous part —
they leave bits of 21st century blue — Goya juice boxes
King Kong chocotejas wrappers —for the boobies to make their love nests. It’s all very romantic, except
as you must know now, Jim, in omniscient heaven and should regret, the boobies don’t collect blue things for mating rituals.The satin bowerbirds from Australia have the blue fetish. But that doesn’t stop Josh and Ashley,
those emo kids from Ridgewood High. They climb the rocks on Seymore Island and scream your famous poem to the waves...
(excerpted from poem by MJ Jerome)
4
The boobies are not nesting in plastic. I visited eight of the islands and saw FOUR small pieces of plastic trash. Total. Picked them up and handed them to my guide. It's a really clean part of the earth, based on some beaches I've seen (for example, the yards of plastic jetsam one sees on Central American coast).
1
I can just see the TV ad for the trip already . . .based on that old one from the 60's with Chief Cody Ironeyes standing with a tear in his eye by the side of the Interstate with a bag of trash landing at his feet thrown out by a passing speeding car . . . Only now with Charles Darwin standing on the deck of the Beagle doing the same.
28
part wo: Very few dive boats (5 yachts with 80 beds) and few expedition yachts/vessels (69 with 1660 beds) have a permit to operate. 75,000 per year (365 days, since there is no season the islands are "closed") on 145 visiting sites, on 69 small vessels (in fact, most of the 69 vessels may take only 16 guests, as 16 is the maximum number a guide may lead in the National Park. Very few have more than one guide- allowing the groups to be smaller, and focus on language, interest and abilities). Oh a few more strict rules: no vessel may repeat any visiting site in two weeks’ time. each of the visiting sites (a total of 145 sites, about half are marine and half are terrestrial sites), so you can have a maximum of six small vessels or ONLY one vessel of six guides in any given visitor´s site. Nobody- under any circumstance, can be alone (without the supervision of the licensed naturalist guide). perhaps the last rule: any new yacht or expedition vessel may come into Galapagos ONLY if it replaces an existing vessel of the same capacity- so the number of guests allowed into the 97% of 8,000 km2 is limited (and has not changed in over two decades). I see here, how tourism has helped to preserve a natural wonder!
2
You sound like exactly the type of person who never should go there. This is a place for people who care only about the fragility of how subspecies develop in minuscule environments--shells of land tortoises altered by whether the survivors could most easily eat from the ground, or from the height of raised brush only on some Islands....Finches who only were able survive because of beak anomalies (wonderfully perfect, it turned out, for seeds and grains certain shapes on a specific one of the 19 islands)
You tout a crass Disney approach and cynicism, and sound like precisely the type of person who should never set foot in the Galapagos where so few allowed each year.
And while you engage in sarcasm and cynicism, ponder that if you cook with a gas stove instead of the most energy efficient induction cooktop stoves...If you eat wild fish flown by jet from various deep water places on globe...if you buy less than durable cars that last 14 years or more....if you buy and dump more possessions than you need (not want!) each decade...THEN you are doing more damage to the planet than the science loving people who will be even better educators, researchers or donors to conservation after they visit the miracle environment of the Galapagos.
You tout a crass Disney approach and cynicism, and sound like precisely the type of person who should never set foot in the Galapagos where so few allowed each year.
And while you engage in sarcasm and cynicism, ponder that if you cook with a gas stove instead of the most energy efficient induction cooktop stoves...If you eat wild fish flown by jet from various deep water places on globe...if you buy less than durable cars that last 14 years or more....if you buy and dump more possessions than you need (not want!) each decade...THEN you are doing more damage to the planet than the science loving people who will be even better educators, researchers or donors to conservation after they visit the miracle environment of the Galapagos.
1
I wonder if these "vacations" are ruining the islands, and articles like this also promote ruining the islands.
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Exactly!
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I second that Exactly!
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I went last year and did week long cruise on small boat. It was most amazing experience. We all agreed boat best way to see as otherwise you waste too much time going back and forth from a hotel. Others doing day teips from hotels on the inhabited islands also agreed....
10
Totally agree, finally a travelogue for folks who can't afford $25K weekends with pedicures and blow-dryers. We stayed at a B&B. Hopped on the water taxi and took a 5 minute ride to a residence on the water with a beautiful 360 degree view. The owner was the daughter of German immigrants and lived there most of her life. All we had to do is ask her for local advice as we leisurely had breakfast with her. She made a wonderful breakfast with fresh tropical fruit. Be kind to the residents. Understand that many of them depend on you for their livelihood. It is their country and respect their ways.
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Avoid cruise ships. If you take a cruise, you will not see the Galapagos; you will see tourists. Your trip will feel like a Sunday afternoon at the National Zoo. Imagine yourself alone on a beach full of sea lions. Exotic, huh? Now add 500 noisy people with cameras. Not exotic anymore. If you decide to go, take note of the smoggy air in Quito, which is hardly fit to breathe. Why aren't all the natives dead? Anyone who favors a rollback of EPA regulations here in the U.S. should be forced to spend a week in Quito...outdoors.
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Not true if you take small boat that accomodates no more than 15 or so. We saw virtually no one on any of the islands.
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Out of the 65 or so Galapagos cruise ships, 52 of them carry between 8 and 20 passengers only. It is the large global corporations (Celebrity, National Geographic, Silversea) that are responsible for the largest ships in the islands and even then, the maximum allowable ship capacity is 100 passengers. The National Park strictly regulates the # of visitors at any visitor site and your post is misleading. The only place you'll feel crowded is in the towns - where a 40 fold increase in land based visitors over the past 20 years is turning them into "little Tijunas".
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Take a smaller ship. Ours had 20 passengers with 2 guides--they took us on two to five land and snorkel trips a day, in groups of ten people each. It was great.
1
Sadly, tourism is not helping the environment of this very special place.
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Louis, that is the main reason I have held off going there. Everything I read about visiting the islands makes me think they have been overrun and are being irreparably damaged by the traffic. How could they not be? (Furthermore, every single person I know who has travelled there - - and I know far too many -- is someone with whom I would not want to share either a boat or a day tour.)
The Galapagos have, unfortunately, become one of those "must-see" destinations that trip collectors tick off their lists. It's the same thing with Machu Picchu and Antarctica. Invariably, when I ask people to share their impresssions of these places, the answers are either something vaguely hyperbolic (It was incredible!), unrelated to personal impression (some whining story about how long it took to get there, or dissatisfaction with the boat), or a boastful listing of ten reasons the way they did the trip was better than everyone else's choices.
I've come to loathe tourism.
The Galapagos have, unfortunately, become one of those "must-see" destinations that trip collectors tick off their lists. It's the same thing with Machu Picchu and Antarctica. Invariably, when I ask people to share their impresssions of these places, the answers are either something vaguely hyperbolic (It was incredible!), unrelated to personal impression (some whining story about how long it took to get there, or dissatisfaction with the boat), or a boastful listing of ten reasons the way they did the trip was better than everyone else's choices.
I've come to loathe tourism.
14
Excellent article, chock full of anecdotes and useful information. Thank you.
I eventually plan to make my way down the west coast ( starting in Alaska ) all the way down to the southern tip in South America. ( a 2 or 3 year excursion )
Just waiting for the little one(s) to get out of the house. I just might invite them.
I eventually plan to make my way down the west coast ( starting in Alaska ) all the way down to the southern tip in South America. ( a 2 or 3 year excursion )
Just waiting for the little one(s) to get out of the house. I just might invite them.
8
Now THAT sounds like an interesting journey.
4