Conquering Machu Picchu, the Cheap and Quick Way

May 08, 2017 · 39 comments
Diane (Boston)
The rules for Machu Picchu changed as of July 1, 2017.. Now one can only go with a guide. Do you have any suggestions for finding a guide or group for MP only (i.e. not a 3 day group)..
Will there be enough guides? Gracias por tu ayuda.
TravelingProfessor (Great Barrington, MA)
One of the silliest ideas in travel is to do Machu Picchu in a day. It is a spectacular place that needs to be savored. That cannot be done in a day.

I have run many tours to Machu Picchu. Our plan is to take the train from Poroy, avoiding that brutal 2-hour bus ride over the mountains from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. We then have a professionally guided tour in the afternoon, when crowds are generally ebbing.
We return the next morning for the spectacular 90-minute hike from the citadel along the Inka Trail up to the Sun Gate. There are few sights in this world as magnificent as the beauty of sunrise at Machu Picchu while the clouds rush from the valley to expose Machu Picchu. We spend the rest of the day enjoying, photographing, and exploring Machu Picchu at our own pace, with no deadlines or restrictions.

Steve
www.travelingprofessor.com
Sarah (skokie, Il)
Thanks a million to the author for including the last paragraph regarding yellow fever requirements for Costa Rica. I booked a serious of one way tickets taking my family from Chicago, to Cartagena, to Cusco, and finally Costa Rica. I had read up on vaccines but discovered that we didn't need them for health reasons because the areas we were visiting did not have Yellow Fever. What I did not understand was that Costa Rica would not allow us entry after travel in the countries. Thanks the author, I did a little more researching, found out about the Costa Rica requirement, and was lucky enough to secure an appointment at a travel clinic, and not a moment too soon! We actually ended up getting a waiver in our Yellow Fever Card and so avoided the vaccine, but I have to say that the gate agents in Cusco and in Lima were not joking around about this requirement! At one point a gate agent chased our family down the gangway to the plane to recheck our Yellow Fever cards - a pretty stressful moment! One crazy realization was that if I had routed us in the opposite direction - starting with CR and ending in Cartagena, none of this would have been an issue. Thanks again, Lucas Peterson. You saved a good part of our vacation!
Luis Reyes Holgado (Cusco)
Hi, I'm free journalist in Cusco and would like to add that here there are small villages dedicated to selling a single meal traditional, for example, “Saylla Village” to 30th minutes from the city, can only eat "chicharrón" fried pork pieces, in its own fat previously flavored with herbs of the area; Then have “Tipon Village” 5 minutes from “Saylla”, here you only can eat "cuy al horno" (baked guinea pig), in the city to head mountain sickness have a alcoholic beverage traditional "pisco sour" and the "coca sour" pisco sour which is more coca leaf extract, best regards.
Ray (Los Angeles)
I went in 1999, it was glorious. I felt a spiritual connection with ancient humans, I have a touch of height fear, and seemingly almost fell off......
JMG (Los Angeles)
Let's not forget the local and ancient altitude remedy: "la hoja coca", and, "el te." Few are brave enough to discover or remember.
ct (washington, dc)
'"From Aguas Calientes, you can take a bus to the site ($24, round-trip) or you can hike the switchbacks all the way up....One important thing to note about the bus up to Machu Picchu — the operator accepts American Express and MasterCard, but not Visa."

Maybe the Visa thing is true at the ticket booths, but the website for the bus operator (https://www.consettur.com) accepts Visa. And I definitely recommend buying tickets in advance to save having to wait in another line.
ELS (CA)
Traveled at very end of rainy season. Flowers were spectacular. We spent one night in Aguas Calientes with minimal gear. Up at 4 am to line up for 1st bus up the mountain (French pastry shop opens at 4 am - get takeout to eat in line). Ran up the steps to see MP as the fog lifted. No people around! Took the early ticket up Huayna Piccchu. Watched MP revealed as fog burned off. Hiked down backside of Huayna Picchu (not for faint of heart). Picnic lunched outside cave temples. Guard and one other couple were only people we saw. Hiked back around to MP around 2pm as most tourists were leaving. Napped beside waterworks below Sun Temple. Enjoyed leisurely stroll around MP with few other people. Left at last call for gate, hiked down the mountain and took cooperativo back to Urubamba, where we left most of our gear. (Night driving is terrifying because truckers drive without headlights.)

After that, took 10 day self-designed trek with Llama Path via Choquequirao to Salkantay Pass. First several days, no other people. Fantastick flowers! Choquequirao is better than MP. Headed up to Salkantay Pass like salmon heading up the massed streams of tourists heading to MP. So glad we didn't go that way. Guide knew their schedule. We arrived at the Pass just as last MP-bound tourists left and had the gorgeous views of Salkantay all to ourselves. Camped up on the pampas and headed down to Soray Pampa the next day.
Alan Dean Foster (Prescott, Arizona)
There is also, of course, the expensive (used to be much, much cheaper) hotel located directly opposite the entrance to the archeological site. What staying at the hotel does is allow you to be among the first to enter the site and the last to leave, allowing you a few hours in the morning and again in the evening to experience Macchu Picchu absent the horde of visitors who arrive by train, bus, or hike up from Agua Calientes.

If you choose this option, head straight for the Intihuatauna, the Hitching Post of the Sun and the highest point in the park. Everyone has their priorities in life and budgets for them accordingly. For myself, watching the sun rise over the mountains to shine over the Intihuatana in complete silence and in the presence of only two other people was a moment on which I could not put a price.
N London (<br/>)
Excellent article & useful comments that will help with our trip later this year. Thanks everyone
Allen Craig (SFO-BOG)
For most people, planning as much as possible of course will be best, but I'd recommend the almost free version that will allow you to experience a lot more than most tourists ever will. You just need an extra few days and only need to plan a few steps beforehand.

Take a local bus from Cusco to Pisac, which is one of the very quaint towns than run along the Urubamba River. The river runs a length of the Sacred Valley leading to Macchu Picchu, with mountains rising almost right up from the water's edge, sprinked with numerous archeological ruins. Ask around once you arrive and you're sure to find a cheap place to stay within an hour—possibly in someone's house. Drop your bags and go for a hike up into the mountains or walk around town where you may very well find yourself in the middle of an outdoor market. The next day another bus, taxi or hitch a ride to another town heading in the direct of Ollantaytambo. I stayed in Calcay, then Urubamba and finally Ollantaytambo, where I stayed two nights, exploring town and meeting local people and asking for advice on the different ways to get to Macchu Picchu. In Ollantaytambo there are plenty of people who speak English, but you'll be better served if you speak just a little Spanish as that will help you avoid the conversations that are geared toward tourists. Kids especially are very friendly.
Skip Broussard (Dallas)
Be aware of the possibility of altitude sickness, especially if you're going to hike. And there is also much more to see in this fascinating country, a total land of opposites.
Maureen (Wisconsin)
The key to getting to Machu Picchu is to take a mini bus to Ollantoytambo from Cusco. Find one full of chickens. (It's the most fun.) Take the train to MP from Ollantoytambo. Give this experience the time is deserved. It's not intended to be rushed.
Joan Winstein (Oak park, I'll)
Aguas Caliente's name is actually "Machu Picchu Pueblo".

The name officially changed about 2 years ago, I believe.
Lauren (NYC)
One additional tip to avoid a lot of discomfort later - when touring the site be sure to wear long pants with tall socks pulled up, and plenty of bug repellent on your legs. I hiked with exposed ankles and was devoured by sand flies that caused my ankles to swell to three times their normal size - it was horrifically painful, especially on my flight home days later.
EllenB. (Oakland, CA)
That happened to me too, and I had no idea at the time. Smashed aspirin paste (just add a few drops of water) applied directly to the bites really helped the itching and the healing process. They were awful, but the trip was amazing and will worth it!
msf (NYC)
This rushed itinerary does not do justice to the majestic place.

Take a few days in Cuzco to acclimatize - otherwise you may find yourself wobbly in your knees or slightly nauseous, not able to enjoy MP. If you stay closer to MP (in Aguas Calientes or even Olay.) you can get a full day on the mountain (I went before timed AM/PM tickets)
Matthew (Teaneck)
We went there in 2016 and loved it. Cusco is very friendly and we learned so much about Peru and was amazed at MP is all about. One glaring omission in the write-up is that you will need to protect yourself from the little biting bugs up there. 100% deet spray is required. One member of our group get seriously bitten up and landed in the hospital. No short or short sleeves. The bugs are professionals so be smart and enjoy one of the most stunning places I have ever seen.
M (Amherst, MA)
It always surprises me when people say they don't have any time to do anything more then a rushed tour of someplace. Rushing through Machu Picchu in a day is simply checking off a bucket list and never experiencing the rhythm of the land or the people or the history or the culture. You are just carrying around your own values and perspective and never deeply considering what you are passing through. Sorry, but I disagree with the whole pretext for this article. Yes, Ollantoytambo is a really good base for this journey and there are wonderful day hikes in the mountains nearby. But plan on walking in to Machu Picchu over four days or even a week or more. You begin to think more deeply about the Incas and what it meant to travel by foot. The mountainous land stays with you for many months afterward. Your sense of time slows down. You arrive at the Sun Gate after hiking many miles over many days and can imagine being a pilgrim many centuries before. When you hike in you can arrive at Machu Picchu in the late afternoon after everyone else has left. The place is yours, because the rushed travelers have run out of water or need to use a bathroom, neither of which are readily available. Or they are tired because they haven't acclimatized like you over the days you've been hiking. Spend the night in the Agua Callientes campground and come back the next day. Llama Path is a good organization.
Tom (Honolulu)
Greece is next. Crete probably.
Abmindprof (Brooklyn)
We got the best advice from a guidebook. 1) the day trip is lousy idea. 2) when you arrive at Cusco airport go straight to Ollantaytambo. It's at a lower elevation than Cusco and allows you to acclimatize better. No stopping in Cusco, no early bus or train. At Ollantaytambo, there are various excursions around the sacred valley. They have their own ruins, which are pretty spectacular. The town itself is gorgeous as others have said. Then go to Aguas Clients and spend at least one and probably better two nights for reasons made clear by others below.

The place is awe inspiring. It deserves the respect of sufficient time.
Bongo (Los Angeles)
We did exactly this and it was awesome. We flew direct from LAX to Lina, and immediately LIM to Cusco. We immediately took a pre-arranged taxi from Cusco to Ollanta and stayed in Ollanta 2 nights at a super quaint hotel w balcony view to the Ollanta ruins, easy 10 min walk from hotel and quite spectacular. On the way to Ollanta I asked taxi to stop by the Maras Salt ponds- a pre incan salineras w about 5,000 salt ponds that feed from salty stream trapped in the Andes. We also did a day trip to Pisac from Ollanta, spectacular market and ruins above. We took train from Ollanta to Aguas Calientes day 3, arriving around noon and up to the ruins by bus around 2pm w the whole place for us. We hired a local tour guide at entrance cheap and she was great took many pictures of my husband and I. We dtayed the night in Aguas Calientes and headed back in the morning, this time to climb the Montaña which gook us 2.5 hours up and another 2.5 down but it was awesome! We spend the night agsin in Aguas Calientes. We headed back to Ollanta by train then taxi to Cusco. On the way visited a very authentic textile coop in Chincheros, well worth it. We stayed the last two nights in Cusco enjoying the town snd surroundings, andvfinally last night in Lima before heading back to LAX. An amazing experience! Going in a rush just one dsy to MP does not do justice. Spend the time to truly feel the surroundings , the places, the people
Jared (San Francisco)
It's definitely worth trekking to MP if you have time and are in shape. Inca Trail is not the best route - over crowded. Other routes like the Salkantaky Trek and Lares Trek are just as picturesque and with half the people.

As the article mentions, make sure if you do take the train you buy your tickets ahead of time. And also secure your Inca Trail permit way ahead of time if choosing that route as they sell out fast. A tour operator can sort this all out for you. Here's another great guide to visiting Machu Picchu http://www.stridetravel.com/blogs/planning-a-trip-to-machu-picchu.html
Elizabeth W (Somerville, MA)
There's nothing "frugal" about a $150+ train trip! The frugal way to get to Machu Picchu is to take a micro (mini bus) to Ollantoytambo and then walk the rest of the way to Aguas Calientes, along the train tracks. It's a full day's leisurely walk, very beautiful, and you'll be in plenty of company with many Peruvians and some backpackers also taking this route. And you can't get lost because train tracks!

Plus you can tell people you did in fact walk to Machu Picchu... you just did it while saving $900 and all that advance planning!

Any time you want an ActuallyFrugal Traveler column, NY Times, hit me up.
Lillian F. Schwartz (NYC)
Mi esposa es peruana. Machu Picchu always seems to be the one place to go. It is suggested that one stay overnight at one of the hotels (ranging from expensive to less, but a dollar buys a lot of soles). One should fly to Lima in the South. It is the second or third largest cities in the world; larger in population than NYC. It is on the Pacific, divided into districts. An off-season non-stop flight costs almost nothing but, like here, the temperature has been changing due to climate change. The food is extremely good but mainly pollo and fish. There is a museum. After resting, sunbathing, eating, one travels North to Cuzco. Take the old, slow-moving train. Book a room at the cheap hotel. Stay an entire day. Then go to the jungle and meet the Quechua Indians. Buy herbs (they work). Return to Lima. Years ago, I collaborated on a film on the relatively undiscovered Mayan ruins in Mehico (North American, not South). Our workers used machetes to cut openings for the jeeps. The temples, the soccer court where heads of enemies were the balls, the carved panther with jade eyes were amazing. Now it, too, is a tourist attraction after which one goes to Cancun. But the Inca culture was phenomenol, moreso than Mayan (pron. Mayjan). Remember, they were Quechua who came from Mongolia across the frozen Bering Strait and settled the Americas. The belief in the sun, a form of astrology, domestication of animals and plants, all destroyed by the Spanish. Compare Mayjan to Incan.
Gregor (BC Canada)
Did it from Olly, spent a super long day on the site which was great because its a teaming lemming city from 9am to 2pm hordes of people. From 2 to closing at 5 hardly anyone. Bought tickets in NAmerica. Got to Aguas from Olly(stay in Olly not as super touristy early train out at 6am) take cheap trains the return we took was at 9+pm enough to chow down and Pisco it up in Aguas while people watching hordes that actually stay in over priced bandb's/hotels in town. A good day from Olly. While people do the inca trail and find it great expect many people; do some research there are some other lesser known treks to ruins that are better and more rewarding. Do Machu though and do it soon because the word is that they are closing it within 5 years because of human erosion to the site... the rocks steps are wearing and the fine jointing of the massive blocks are eroding from constant touch, people marvelling over the architectural precision of the Inca.
Miguel Gongora (Cusco, Peru)
"Machu Picchu is not a photo opportunity or a trek to cross off the bucket list, but a chance to learn about a unique time in human history.

Please avoid spending all your time behind the lens of a camera. Immerse yourself in the beauty and atmosphere of this spectacular site. Machu Picchu deserves human reverence and respect, which treating it as a photo op does not represent.

Machu Picchu was the zenith of a civilization that placed the needs of its people and mother earth “Pachamama” above everything else. This site is perhaps the most beautiful open-air classroom in the Western Hemisphere to learn about human resilience. Machu Picchu is not for selfies.

To ensure you get the best experience out of your visit, watch this video before you make your trip; if you are a reader, these books might get you on a good footing to fully engage with the lessons from your guides."
https://matadornetwork.com/read/dear-travelers-peru-please-dont-come-you...
TravelingProfessor (Great Barrington, MA)
I have traveled to Machu Picchu well over a dozen times. Let me give you my tips:

Books trains and admission into MP well in advance. They can sell out. Nothing worse than traveling all the way to Peru and not being able to get a train or MP admission tickets.

ALWAYS stay at least 2 nights in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu).

Take a guided tour later in the afternoon (less crowds) on your day of arrival.

On your 2nd day, take the spectacular 90 minute hike up the Inca Trail from the citadel to the Sun Gate early in the morning as the clouds rise from the valley. There is the hike to Huayna Picchu, but it requires a reservation and in my opinion, is dangerous.

Steve
www.travelingprofessor.com
Dave (Yucatan, Mexico)
Best article ever on visiting MP, all the way down to the warning about the yellow fever vaccination. We are considering a visit next year and have already saved this article. Thanks!
R L Scofield (Bullhead City Az)
Or you can visit Chaco Canyon in New Mexico. More spectacular, older, and you might have the place almost to yourself!
Leslie (Pennsylvania)
Thanks. I will look into this. I am older, 70. I am in good shape except for very bad knees. I don't think I can handle the trek to Machu Picchu, but maybe the one you suggest might be doable.
Jo (Ireland)
An alternative way to hike to Machu Picchu is via the Salkantay trail - an absolutely amazing experience - its not as busy as the Inca Trail - there were times when we saw no other groups at all on our guided tour a couple of years ago and while you don't enter the citadel through the Sun Gate as Inca Trailers do (its either a hike from Aquas Caliantes or the bus) it doesn't take from the experience at all.
footballgal (Toronto)
Hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu it is absolutely awe inspiring. I did it last year and would definitely do it again. Just be aware that you will have to book months ahead of time to be able to get a Inca Trail permit (the year's worth of permits are sold out the first day the Peruvian government issues them). Please choose a reputable company that treats their porters (they call themselves "chaskis") well. On the hike I saw some chaskises without proper rain gear or footwear like sandals! Don't be one of the thousands of visitors who are shuttled into the site and are running around with selfie sticks chasing lamas. Hike it and you won't regret it :)
Leslie (Pennsylvania)
Maybe a shuttle would work for me, though. Older person, 70 w bad knees but otherwise in good shape. Hope it would. I would like to see Machu Picchu. No selfie stick ,etc.
Anthem (San Francisco,CA)
We just came back after spending 10 days in Cusco's sacred valley , 3 days visiting Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes . The best time to visit the ruins is late afternoon after 2 pm. It is deserted and you can almost have the place to yourself. The mornings are extremely crowded right from long bus lines to waiting in line to enter the very popular sites in the ruins. My family and I were the only people in line around 1.40 pm in the afternoon and we had a bus all to ourselves from Aguas Calientes. 1 day trip just doesn't do justice this wonder !
We visited a Travel Medicine specialist before our trip. Yellow Fever vaccine is not required by CDC for Machu Picchu, it is only required if you visit the Peruvian Amazon.
F Runkel (Twisp WA)
Oh great, now a place of deep and rich spiritual resonance is conquered. And conquered the cheap and quick way, so much the better.
Nev Gill (Dayton OH)
Good description and information. Here are my thoughts. Stay in Ollantaytambo. No need to get up at an ungodly hour to hop on the train to Aguas Calientes. Go in the afternoon, there is considerable morning fog and the tourist peak is from about 9am to 2pm. You can avoid the crowds and if lucky, get a sunny afternoon. The classic Machu Picchu shot is from what is called the Shepherd's Hut, about a 15 minute steep walk from the entrance. Don't be in a hurry, let the day unwind. Do not splurge on the Hiram Bingham Train. Most of the ride is through valleys and in the morning it is dark and usually foggy so you won't see anything.
Natalie (Vancouver, BC)
I heartily agree regarding Ollantaytambo. Not only is it convenient for accessing Machu Picchu, but it's also a lovely little town to stay in and has great ruins that are very much worth a visit. We made it our base for a few days of visiting MP and the Sacred Valley as a whole (ex. Pisac), and really enjoyed its rustic, small feel.
DrI (OKC)
I don't necessarily disagree about taking the less expensive train, but the view from the ride can be absolutely spectacular. I went a long time ago, but I still remember the stunning vistas of the verdant Urubamba River Valley with the snow-capped Andes in the background. It is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen in quite extensive travels.