Rei Kawakubo, Interpreter of Dreams

Apr 26, 2017 · 28 comments
tweedledee (NYC)
Wonderful photography ! ( for a change )
Dianne B (East Hampton)
It is thrilling to see the Times Magazine devote these pages to Rei Kawakubo and not relegate this fascinating work to the 'Style Section'.
jsf (pa.)
Late one morning back in the 1980s I was walking along First Avenue near Beekman Place when I saw more than a block away a woman walking toward me. Her clothes were multi-layered in earth tones, and she carried one bulging shoulder tote and another with handles. "Oh, my," I thought, "that woman must be rich and very fashionable to be wearing head-to-toe Rei Kawakubo." We walked on toward each other. When we approached, I saw a ragged, very unkempt street person -- sad, forlorn, pitiable. On that day I changed my opinion of Commes des Garcons and revised my opinion of high "fashion" forever.
EJE (Hudson Valley)
Well I see it differently. We're entitled to rapture along with everything else. What I don't get is how the Times could do an article on Kawakubo and feature Mark Zuckerberg on the cover. ??????
Anjali Madgula (New Jersey)
I really love this piece and the writing is so beautiful!
Molly Ciliberti (Seattle)
Idiotic! Given that our world is in danger from climate change and over consumption this fantasy is a nightmare for our planet. We need more articles on how to live a good life without overconsumption.
JR (Providence, RI)
Would you have the world do without art or music, too?
MsPea (<br/>)
Although I acknowledge that my reaction to this leaves me open to claims that I am hopelessly bourgeois and mundane, I will admit that I do not understand the point of Ms. Kawakubo's "clothes." I am not a sophisticate, and their meaning is lost to me. I find her costumes tortured and confining, and the bodies of her models seem to be imprisoned. There is an element of misogyny at work here that I find most uncomfortable.
florence (good air)
Ms Pea, did you ever try one of her clothes?
Misogyny is a pair of high heels, you can´t do anything normal on them.
Fashion shoots are theatrical sometimes. When I see the pictures here I only think in how all of us are manipulated trough beauty and body shapes. Besides what shape of body we really enjoy as women?
Lucy (Scarsdale)
Wonderful piece, and a welcome explanation of this mysterious work. Comme des Garçons means 'like boys,' not 'like the boys,' which would be 'comme les garçons.' Exacting as she is, Rei Kawakubo must have chosen the name for her own purposes.
Phyliss Dalmatian (Wichita, Kansas)
Went to a exhibition at the Seattle Art Museum, several years ago. Absolutely entrancing. Clothing in, and for, your dreams. Fantastic writing. Thank you. More, please.
Robert T (Montreal)
I would be more convinced of her artistry if she did not apply it to clothes, that is, to fashion and the fashion industry walkway. Her clothes may be wild and original, but they don't invite me, personally, to examine them, reflect on them, internalize them as art. I wish she had chosen to be a visual artist, a sculptor, a painter or performance artist, rather than associate her stuff with fashion. If she feels she is entitled to elevate what is actually quite mundane, clothes and wearing them, to art, why not exercise a bit of imagination and originality to designing fantastic table cloths and bed sheets?
Mister (Tea)
> why not exercise a bit of imagination and originality to designing fantastic table cloths and bed sheets?

I suppose it's because Ms. Kawabuko is the creator in this case and how she chooses to create and to express her artistic is her own choice.

I don't disagree with the merit in some of your points--I'm not very keen on fashion or how it acts as a medium for artistic expression--but I also believe calling for artists to do their work in a more accessible way is a bit ironic, as "accessible" is always relative to whoever is doing the accessing.

I may not fully comprehend the context of Ms. Kawakubo's work but I fully acknowledge that it's not my place to call or wish for it to be transferred to contexts that I do have a better understanding of.
JR (Providence, RI)
Although I can't speak for Kawakubo, I would venture to say that she chose the human body as a canvas because her work makes the internal workings of the psyche -- or her interpretation of it -- visible. I would also characterize her clothes as "visual art."
Elizabeth Barry (<br/>)
Table cloths? What the heck are they? how deadly. yikes.
fastfurious (the new world)
I appreciate the reference to Louise Bourgeois - an interesting reference to explain Kawakubo's use of form. I also think of Hans Bellmer.

Please ask Kawakubo to come out of hiding and give a brief conversation with a sympathetic admirer at the MET or sign copies of the exhibition catalogue. She is much loved. We would love to see her!
rich k (Taiwan)
These designs seem like the concept cars of an automobile manufacturer. Both are intended for show only while the utilitarian aspect, either wearing or driving as the case maybe, is wholly absent. Very liberating and fresh ideas here in the work presented and the article. I hope more designers can be afforded time and encouraged to pursue their own 'dreams'.
Claudia Dowling (New York City)
Wow! Perfect piece.
Anna (Toronto)
What an out-of-the world designer...so beautiful brave clothes - maybe the way clothes should be everyone...
I think many have that childhood dream whenever they had a fever...spaces getting bigger and squeezing you...it does feel like the clothes...
Len Charlap (Princeton, NJ)
This article fails to even hint that CdG has, in spite of its name, had men's clothing in its line. I have worn them for at least 30 years, They are simple and architectural, meaning they do not depend on patterns or texture, but on shape. One of my favorites is a black top coat with a simple pattern and cuffed sleeves and a removable lining. I also like a dark grey shirt with a tie made from the same fabric.

While Rei may have gone to non-wearable clothes in recent years (which is all this article shows), there is much that is beautiful and gorgeously detailed which is eminently wearable in her earlier lines.
JR (Providence, RI)
Thank you for pointing this out to the uninitiated! The "simple and architectural" shapes, as you beautifully put it, and impeccable construction elevate her clothes beyond the typical seasonal fashion trends and slavish attention to scoring the next commercial hit.
Gracie S. (New Jersey)
How is it possible that the writer of this amazing piece is given second billing? This isn't "text" to explain photographs. It's a brilliant essay in interpretation and description that could stand on its own, sans even illustration.
Jacob (New York)
Looking at the photographs, I suggest the the exhibtion be titled "A Farewell to Arms."
George (NY)
Amazing clothes. I want to see people wearing them and walking around.
gbreger (CHICAGO)
remarkable vision rendered into physicality
David (Providence, RI)
Stumbled across this article while greedily enjoying a double Whopper in a vacant Burger King "dining room.". I was transcended. Thank you!
NYBrit (NYC)
Kawakubo is a truly great and unique talent. I'm so glad the Met is giving her a retrospective this year. If they have done her any justice at all this will be their best costume exhibition since the McQueen "Savage Beauty" show. I predict huge visitor numbers too.
Matthew (NJ)
Beautifully written and evocative. But you are googlable wearing sweaters that are not red, so....?