Eric, I love your writing and I really don't want to flog this idea to death but I would face off a $20 2014 Domaine Trouillet Pouilly-Fuisse or if you want to splurge, a $30 2012 Domaine Louis Jadot Santenay Blanc "Clos de Malte" against any of your picks. I am sure the Norcal wines are great but the pricing is just out of whack. And the I wines I picked had ratings, if I were to exclude that I can probably go down another $5-$10 and find something that competes.
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Sorry, no California chardonnay is worth $75.
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My name is Ed. And I like chardonnay. Wow, glad I put that out there.
Even one of my kids (he's 21 now) like's to say "Dad likes ponies and chardonnay". I suppose he, like one of the other commenters, is suggesting chardonnay drinkers have the sensibilities of teenage girls.
And when the waiter comes to deliver a glass of pinot noir and a chardonnay to my wife and me, it's more often reversed than not.
How have I dealt with this unconscious, and sometimes very conscious, bias? I have the conviction that a wine mentor of mine instilled in me about 30 years ago: drink what you like.
Really, can I do that? Even when it is no longer fashionable?
By powering through and drinking what I like, I have developed some great memories and moments that are associated with the flavors and experiences of my chardonnay journey. Thank you, Mr Asimov, for reminding us that wine has the power to be part of the complex emotional fabric of our selves.
And at the risk of blowing up the potential sweetness of that sentiment, I'd like to also mention that the beautiful smell of freshly deposited horse manure also triggers my sweet dreams of someday having, as my son would say, a pony.
Even one of my kids (he's 21 now) like's to say "Dad likes ponies and chardonnay". I suppose he, like one of the other commenters, is suggesting chardonnay drinkers have the sensibilities of teenage girls.
And when the waiter comes to deliver a glass of pinot noir and a chardonnay to my wife and me, it's more often reversed than not.
How have I dealt with this unconscious, and sometimes very conscious, bias? I have the conviction that a wine mentor of mine instilled in me about 30 years ago: drink what you like.
Really, can I do that? Even when it is no longer fashionable?
By powering through and drinking what I like, I have developed some great memories and moments that are associated with the flavors and experiences of my chardonnay journey. Thank you, Mr Asimov, for reminding us that wine has the power to be part of the complex emotional fabric of our selves.
And at the risk of blowing up the potential sweetness of that sentiment, I'd like to also mention that the beautiful smell of freshly deposited horse manure also triggers my sweet dreams of someday having, as my son would say, a pony.
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Mr. Asimov has an energetic imagination. But his attempt at metaphoric melody doesn't change the tune: It's California chardonnay. And while it's a fine starter wine for teenage girls (at home, with parental supervision), forking over $75 for a Sonoma white will indeed leave a bitter taste in your mouth!
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Lovely California wines are available at under $15 per bottle that upon blind taste test are typically found identical to those mentioned.
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Identical? No way. Even for someone with an average but experienced palate like me. Virtually all under 15$ california wines are "zip code" products, blends of multiple sites and sources. Many are perfectly drinkable for sure.
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Given this amazing "potential" we can only hope that the beautiful coastal woodlands are not turned into rows of grapes
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A wonderful read ! I'm very familiar with the Sonoma Coast,an awesome area. The chapel at Sea Ranch must be seen to be believed. There are many wonderful Sonoma wines that are more affordable however. One of my favorites ,albeit Napa is Rombauer Chardonnay,very reasonably priced and tasty.
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Energy? Don't you just mean properly balanced with slightly higher than normal acidity but enough fruit to buffer it?
Sadly, many of California's most highly regarded (in Maryland, anyway) Chardonnays have too much alcohol and too little acidity to be worth drinking a second glass. The Sonoma Coast is a good place to look for the ones that don't.
Sadly, many of California's most highly regarded (in Maryland, anyway) Chardonnays have too much alcohol and too little acidity to be worth drinking a second glass. The Sonoma Coast is a good place to look for the ones that don't.
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Great read. I'm quite familiar with the awesome Sonoma Coast,Sea Ranch Chapel a highlight. It is such a serene place. I'm certain the wines mentioned are wonderful but more reasonably priced Chardonnays are readily available. A favorite is Rombauer Chardonnay, lovely.
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Rombauer Chardonnay: sweetish, overly-oaked dreck. Not at all like most of the Sonoma Chardonnays discussed in this article.
kcp: our opinions obviously differ . To the readers, try it,it's not dreck.
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it's terrible imho can't think of a worse wine to introduce someone to California chardonnay
Probably like a lot of folks, I got tired of California chardonnays and stopped drinking them for about 25 years, because most of them were so bad--most chardonnays were way too oaky and acidic. How do we know which ones to try after this experience? This article helps pave the way for restoring my faith in the possibility of trying a good glass of chard based upon the author's recommendations.
Asimov writes that the Eric Kent wine is "closer to Los Carneros and San Pablo Bay than to the coast." He does not advise that there is what out here is referred to as "true" Sonoma Coast and the broader Sonoma Coast AVA, which includes Petaluma. This could be a disservice to those looking simply for "Sonoma Coast" on the shelf. This "energy" business is a pernicious species of wine speak. He then refers to the three wineries at the bottom of the numerical scale and states: "Each makes more expensive single-vineyard designates that are often deeper and more complex." How often are they? Not in vogue, but the 2014 Russian River Valley Chardonnay from Chasseur, IMO, is the equal of the vineyard designates, including the Lorenzo Vineyard, which is a true Sonoma Coast vineyard. Just who in the New York Times readership is going to be able to buy the wines from Rivers-Marie and Ceritas? I live right here in San Francisco and I can tell you that no one can buy these wines here without already being on their mailing list. So, in terms of the two wines which are the most highly rated here, neither will be available.
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toniomaran: 'He does not advise that there is what out here is referred to as "true" Sonoma Coast and the broader Sonoma Coast AVA, which includes Petaluma.'
To be fair, he does write about the region extending far inland, and that the rich-flavored 2014 Sangiacomo Green Acres Hill from Eric Kent was grown 'considerable east of Highway 101.' But how's yer average consumer supposed to know that from the label? I only know it because the vineyard is a 10-minute walk from where I live. Asimov's observation 'that racy wines from the coast and richer, fruitier wines from inland may wear the same appellation' bears repeating and I agree with you that consumers looking at "Sonoma Coast" labels on the shelf could be misled.
To be fair, he does write about the region extending far inland, and that the rich-flavored 2014 Sangiacomo Green Acres Hill from Eric Kent was grown 'considerable east of Highway 101.' But how's yer average consumer supposed to know that from the label? I only know it because the vineyard is a 10-minute walk from where I live. Asimov's observation 'that racy wines from the coast and richer, fruitier wines from inland may wear the same appellation' bears repeating and I agree with you that consumers looking at "Sonoma Coast" labels on the shelf could be misled.
The Ceritas and Rivers-Marie wines are well worth the effort to get on their mailing lists, if you want the Sonoma experience. Unfortunately, the RM wines this year are in especially short supply. Ceritas' chards are simply outstanding, not that there's much of it out there.
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agree the peter martin ray vineyard from caritas is a step from the one tasted
I have always found CALF Chardonnays to be better than Non-CALF ones. They are more oak-tasting and dryer.
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Wonderful piece which resonated with me as I'm quite familiar with the wondrous Sonoma Coast. One of our favorite stops on the way to Gualala,a lovely oasis,is the Sea Ranch chapel. What peace and joy the chapel conjures up. Timber Cove Inn which is near the home described in the article is also a terrific destination. Add Rombauer Chardonnay to this list !
1
OK Eric, you’ve explained that a wine with “energy” is not one that is heated. But “racy”? I never did understand that one. What does “racy” mean?
Is it a wine with petrol character providing “energy” down the racetrack?
Or a wine of low viscosity that “races” down your throat?
Or does it mean something more akin to “varietal,” as in “races” of man?
Help! How do I tell if I’ve got a “racy” wine?
Is it a wine with petrol character providing “energy” down the racetrack?
Or a wine of low viscosity that “races” down your throat?
Or does it mean something more akin to “varietal,” as in “races” of man?
Help! How do I tell if I’ve got a “racy” wine?
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"Racy" is a common wine descriptor. It usually means the wine has a bright, tangy acidity--typically used to describe a white wine that's tart and "zingy."
1
There are plenty of fantastic Sonoma Chardonnays that are less than $40 (or $90) a bottle. I understand that the author is attempting to describe wines that are delicious and well balanced through the use of the term "energy". However, too often, these articles celebrate wines that are very hard to obtain or which are unaffordable to many wine enthusiasts. While they are interesting to read, they are of limited practical use to many, many wine lovers.
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I couldn't agree more with this evaluation. I just wish he would just talk to those for five people that these articles are written for and leave the rest of us in peace.
I agree with the earlier comment about energy as a category for a wine tasting. The traits in the wine that keep you wanting more have more to do with proper balance, and acidity is a key balance to any white wine. There's nothing worse than a flabby wine.
The other comment I'd like to make is of the price points. Yikes! it should be easy to find delicious wines at these price points. The real challenge is to find a nice wine at a nice price. Can't the selections be more affordable. Or are the tasters saying to stay away from any Sonoma coast wine under $30?
The other comment I'd like to make is of the price points. Yikes! it should be easy to find delicious wines at these price points. The real challenge is to find a nice wine at a nice price. Can't the selections be more affordable. Or are the tasters saying to stay away from any Sonoma coast wine under $30?
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I think this article shows just how many facets of the whole wine tasting experience/hobby, or however you want to approach it, there really are.
I really enjoy talking about wine when I go tasting and it's even better when the winemaker is poring during the tasting. Beyond the short patter given at most wineries, discussing and most importantly learning ever more about wine is what I enjoy just as much as the experience of tasting new wines. So I just tell anyone who might be confused or overwhelmed with wine to just realize that wine tasting is a learning process that never ends.
I really enjoy talking about wine when I go tasting and it's even better when the winemaker is poring during the tasting. Beyond the short patter given at most wineries, discussing and most importantly learning ever more about wine is what I enjoy just as much as the experience of tasting new wines. So I just tell anyone who might be confused or overwhelmed with wine to just realize that wine tasting is a learning process that never ends.
I have a huge problem with the following...
"You might ask what energy means in the context of wine, and it’s a good question. For me, energy is the quality that impels you to take another sip. It’s a forward thrust, a sense of tangy vitality that is lip smacking and thirst quenching. It’s texture as well. Some wines feel so good in the mouth that you want another sip to regain the feeling"
There are enough intangibles in the wine world for the public to consume and this statement will lead to further confusion. How does the public, who are already intimidated by the process of buying wine, now go shopping for wine asking about "Energy?" Furthermore people that think they know about wine are now going into their wine shops asking about wines that have "energy."
I would differ to the idea that energy is created on a certain level. That feeling when you have a perfectly aged steak, with a wonderfully aged nebbiolo or the sancerre that pairs with a wonderfully roasted fish with a splash of citrus and olive oil, there is energy that occurs in these chemical and emotional pairings....or is this synergy...
"You might ask what energy means in the context of wine, and it’s a good question. For me, energy is the quality that impels you to take another sip. It’s a forward thrust, a sense of tangy vitality that is lip smacking and thirst quenching. It’s texture as well. Some wines feel so good in the mouth that you want another sip to regain the feeling"
There are enough intangibles in the wine world for the public to consume and this statement will lead to further confusion. How does the public, who are already intimidated by the process of buying wine, now go shopping for wine asking about "Energy?" Furthermore people that think they know about wine are now going into their wine shops asking about wines that have "energy."
I would differ to the idea that energy is created on a certain level. That feeling when you have a perfectly aged steak, with a wonderfully aged nebbiolo or the sancerre that pairs with a wonderfully roasted fish with a splash of citrus and olive oil, there is energy that occurs in these chemical and emotional pairings....or is this synergy...
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