You forgot to mention that Supernatural is filmed in Vancouver and supports some three hundred cast and crew members
I have lived in Vancouver for a few years now. Previously I have lived in Washington D.C., NYC, San Francisco and Berlin. Every city I have lived in had MAJOR MAJOR problems, always.
Anyway, nature here really is the MOST beautiful i have seen, this city would be nothing without it.
I can't really add anything else to the already 305 comments. I think it all has been said.
2
What I have learned from reading many comments, is how easy it is to criticize Vancouver.
It's an enigmatic city, and as the youngest major city on the continent, still immature in ways, smug - too often yes, but not without *some* basis in reality. It's difficult to find a more beautiful location anywhere, and as I write this, it's 28°C and sunny, so much for climate-dissing. Into each life, a little rain must fall, even Hollywood stars on a "remote posting" to the end of the earth. It could be so much worse! C'mon now!
I'm an amateur architectural critic, and I know that Vancouver had settled in to a lazy style of tower, but just as taller buildings (for Vancouver) were allowed, some real gems are in the works. There's some variety happening, and that's a good thing. Check back! Even the suburbs are experimenting with their so-called regional town centres. Surrey is literally carving out a new downtown with gorgeous buildings from Bing Thom (gone too soon), and Burnaby is getting pretty creative. Prices are exorbitant, and I have no solution, but something has to give.
One final word about the Downtown East Side: it is atrocious that people live like this in one of the world's richest countries. It's worth noting that many other jurisdictions in Canada buy their homeless and addicted bus tickets to Vancouver, mostly because of climate. It's a nation-wide problem that's unfair to hold my city solely responsible for.
It's an enigmatic city, and as the youngest major city on the continent, still immature in ways, smug - too often yes, but not without *some* basis in reality. It's difficult to find a more beautiful location anywhere, and as I write this, it's 28°C and sunny, so much for climate-dissing. Into each life, a little rain must fall, even Hollywood stars on a "remote posting" to the end of the earth. It could be so much worse! C'mon now!
I'm an amateur architectural critic, and I know that Vancouver had settled in to a lazy style of tower, but just as taller buildings (for Vancouver) were allowed, some real gems are in the works. There's some variety happening, and that's a good thing. Check back! Even the suburbs are experimenting with their so-called regional town centres. Surrey is literally carving out a new downtown with gorgeous buildings from Bing Thom (gone too soon), and Burnaby is getting pretty creative. Prices are exorbitant, and I have no solution, but something has to give.
One final word about the Downtown East Side: it is atrocious that people live like this in one of the world's richest countries. It's worth noting that many other jurisdictions in Canada buy their homeless and addicted bus tickets to Vancouver, mostly because of climate. It's a nation-wide problem that's unfair to hold my city solely responsible for.
1
Vancouver is a fine example of a real estate ponzi scheme that is largely fueled by foreign investors laundering money out of their home countries. The Province collects land transfer tax on these transactions and is in no hurry to put an end to them. The same gaggle of players just keep selling each other the same houses, inflating the price by $250K every 4 years. Foreign students making $30k | year buy $3,000,000.00 homes.....I'm sure there are other hustles going on as well. The prices are mind bending.
3
I lived in Vancouver in the mid 1970s as well as the mid 1980s. In the 1970s it was a great city to live - small enough to have a friendly feel but large enough to have many of the amenities that we hope for in a city. When I returned in the 1980s the city had started to change with an emphasis on sustaining a social conscious and an increased density of the city. This was all good except the cost of living there was creeping up and even then it was losing its affordability and appeal.
Now what stands out is the cost of living there. Vancouver is great for a short visit (although hotels don't seem that much of a bargain) but to live there requires wealth. It's sad.
Now what stands out is the cost of living there. Vancouver is great for a short visit (although hotels don't seem that much of a bargain) but to live there requires wealth. It's sad.
6
As a transplant to Vancouver, a lot of this rings true (especially: "A city smugly in the downward facing dog.") Before I moved here I read the author's first novel, Stanley Park, which was also a good introduction to the strange tensions in the city -- real social problems mixed with natural beauty. What is easy to overlook in this essay is the undercurrent: Vancouver for all its faults as a city actually hosts a lively, engaged and very public discussion about the challenges of living together in society, whether that be housing or drug addiction or mitigating the effects of climate change. I've never lived anywhere where these issues and potential solutions are so openly discussed. The solutions don't always work -- homelessness has increased rather than decreased -- but what does emerge is a kind of practically minded idealism. It's sort of sweet, really, the absence of irony. Even if it does cultivate smugness.
4
Live in downtown Vancouver in Yaletown, one of the most trendiest areas in town. Beaches, Ocean and Parks all a quick 2 min bike ride on our numerous bike trails. Multiple opportunities and activities in this incredible diverse city within my door step and barely a city compares. Snowboarding in the morning, golf or Paddle Boarding in the afternoon for example. The whiners complaining about Vancouver, the gritty parts, the traffic, bla bla bla have obviously never lived in many other cities across Canada or the U.S that are in most cases dives and can not even compare to the beauty and opportunities here. Go to Edmonton, Regina, Winnipeg, etc in Feb and you know what I mean. Depressing, flat, and obesity rampant.
Vancouver is truly a world, class city!!
Vancouver is truly a world, class city!!
4
The cadence of the author suggests he is high on something which is perfect when one is writing about Vancouver!!
When my family arrived in there as refugees in 1941 they considered they had reached the end of the world.The only solace was the patisserie Notte's Bob Ton which fortunately is still alive and well although no longer on Granville. I have not lived in Vancouver for over 40 years but am there often enough to have seen the changes good and bad. It's still home and still the best: where else can you get a great meal, great scenery, and fentanyl OD's on the steet in less than an hour!!
When my family arrived in there as refugees in 1941 they considered they had reached the end of the world.The only solace was the patisserie Notte's Bob Ton which fortunately is still alive and well although no longer on Granville. I have not lived in Vancouver for over 40 years but am there often enough to have seen the changes good and bad. It's still home and still the best: where else can you get a great meal, great scenery, and fentanyl OD's on the steet in less than an hour!!
1
"Citing Peter Ustinov’s long-ago quip that Toronto was 'New York run by the Swiss,' I asked what parallel statement might be made about Vancouver. Chaos ensued."?
To me Vancouver is very clearly the extended family of the ill-considered pairing of a granola and yoga loving nomadic hippie chick with a drunken womanizing lumberjack. Few signs of the old lumberjack remain, and the aging matriarch has adopted a zeal for political correctness, but the unevenly diverse progeny of the pair's philandering and many of their party guests--who have largely rejected their antecedents' hedonism--remain to fill the city's streets and shops.
To me Vancouver is very clearly the extended family of the ill-considered pairing of a granola and yoga loving nomadic hippie chick with a drunken womanizing lumberjack. Few signs of the old lumberjack remain, and the aging matriarch has adopted a zeal for political correctness, but the unevenly diverse progeny of the pair's philandering and many of their party guests--who have largely rejected their antecedents' hedonism--remain to fill the city's streets and shops.
2
The author and a few posters have misunderstood what Doug Coupland meant when he named his book about Vancouver " City of Glass ".
On page 29, a page of colours to describe Vancouver, he states "Another Vancouver favourite is the colour of glass - hence the title of this book - but that's a section on it's own"
Google the colour " glass " if you don't know it. Those who have been to Vancouver will understand.
On page 29, a page of colours to describe Vancouver, he states "Another Vancouver favourite is the colour of glass - hence the title of this book - but that's a section on it's own"
Google the colour " glass " if you don't know it. Those who have been to Vancouver will understand.
It may be a beautiful city, but if that photo is an accurate representation, Kitsilano is one sad excuse for a beach.
1
It isn't an accurate repesentation
5
That is not an accurate representative. The ACTUAL gorgeous Kits beach is around the corner from where that picture was taken as well as he or she took that photo in Jan. Take it in July or Aug on the actual Kits Beach and different story.
2
I was brought up and educated in South Burnaby and hadn't returned for over 40 years after returning to the UK. For my whole life I have bragged about my luck... Canadian Scottish. Ok it's not pc but forgive an ol fella his fantasies.
I was stunned at the natural beauty that had captivated me as a boy. That is hard to beat.
I was also stunned at the bleak mediocre unimaginative smugness of the uniform architecture that has turned my city into anywheresville North America.
I have NEVER seen or spoken to so many hopeless homeless people in a City centre.
Yes,I loved Stanley Park and English Bay just as I remembered. Who wouldn't? The stunning mountains in the background.
My old house now has 3 houses built on it. Small, mean, packed and greedy.
I have loved this place all of my life and can never forget the wonderful place it was.
World city?
Please.
Parochial.
Until that visit I had encouraged my 26 yr old son to "go west young man".
Now....mmmmm
I was stunned at the natural beauty that had captivated me as a boy. That is hard to beat.
I was also stunned at the bleak mediocre unimaginative smugness of the uniform architecture that has turned my city into anywheresville North America.
I have NEVER seen or spoken to so many hopeless homeless people in a City centre.
Yes,I loved Stanley Park and English Bay just as I remembered. Who wouldn't? The stunning mountains in the background.
My old house now has 3 houses built on it. Small, mean, packed and greedy.
I have loved this place all of my life and can never forget the wonderful place it was.
World city?
Please.
Parochial.
Until that visit I had encouraged my 26 yr old son to "go west young man".
Now....mmmmm
2
Not only the best city in the world; but the best city in the best country in the world.
7
You forgot to mention night skiing, after a day of sailing in the sun in our beautiful English Bay, I am on my way to Cypress Mountain 20 minutes from downtown with the most incredible views on earth from Mount Washington to Vancouver Island and the City sparkling at night. As we say here same day dude; for all you can do from golf to sailing and skiing in one day. Our Syrian and many other refugees are doing great here, working, going to school and prospering. Unlike the US, drug addiction is treated as a medical condition not a crime and we have fantastic first responders working with the opioid and fentanyl problems followed by treatment. Once you get here like so many visitors you will not want to leave, so peaceful with wonderful people.
1
Vancouver's dull urban landscape is symptiomatic of a larger nationwide problem . With Montreal as an exception, Canadian architecture is generally boring and unimaginative because, I think, generations of eastern Canadian architects who set the tone for the rest of the country have had to deal with a harsh and unforgiving winter climate, where the outdoors was something to struggle through rather than celebrate and enjoy, as we do in Vancouver. Vancouver needs to create a more distinctive architectural style more in tune with our inviting surroundings.
4
As always, I believe the problem is that there is an unwillingness to try and compete with the mountains. The mountains killed the wonderful neon sign explosion of the 50's and 60's and to this day every effort is made to make sure that buildings do not block or attempt to compete with view of the mountains. That's just the way it is.
1
I lived there off an on for about five years from 2007 - 2013. Nice city, but not worth the hype. Between everyone telling me that it was the best city on the face of the earth to how lucky it is to live in such a great place, well, it just got old. It is an OK city, but it is not the best city I have ever lived in or visited. The thing that gets me is the smugness of it all ... and then you realize that there are some overwhelming problems. Glad to have been there but wouldn't recommend anyone move there. Visit yes, but realize it isn't the city that everyone who lives there says it is (i.e., the best place on earth).
3
...and they're off. I'm not sure what it is about Vancouver that brings out the haters?
Jealousy? Failed lives so blame a place?
The fact is that Vancouver is a beautiful city that blends urban and nature perfectly. It's stunning.
Jealousy? Failed lives so blame a place?
The fact is that Vancouver is a beautiful city that blends urban and nature perfectly. It's stunning.
10
So, instead of showing some of the parks, public spaces, and terrific buildings like the (dramatic) Vancouver Public Library in one of the most picturesque cities in North America, you show some warehouse-gallery instead? Oh right, that's trendy!
How about a shot of the mountains you can see from anywhere downtown instead?
How about a shot of the mountains you can see from anywhere downtown instead?
11
an enjoyable read. There are some truly remarkable places in Vancouver, and close by even more! Having just moved out from Toronto a year ago I do find myself lost in this city. Hearing a few different languages in a trendy part of town doesn't exactly mean a city is diverse. Vancouver is well behind Toronto and Montreal when it comes to true diversity. I can't seem to find that sense of community that I had in the numerous neighbourhoods I lived in back in Toronto. Vancouver has a ton of problems but the article wasn't about that and it's ridiculous to think that every one writing about Vancouver has to address all the underlying issues, thats simply unfair. It's the cities and provinces leader that seem oblivious to all it's issues. All cities have issues, doesn't mean we can't find great places and enjoy great moments in those places.
3
I think people from the east should stop trying to compare Vancouver with older more established Canadian cities such as Toronto and Montreal - which are both crude and boring compared to the much more mature cities of the 'Old World'. To put things in perspective, when my father was born. Vancouver was less than 50 years old. It was only a few years removed from being a watering hole for mill workers and loggers working in Burrard Inlet. It grew rapidly after the railway terminated here and went through another massive change after the world's fair in 1986 (Expo 86) when Asia discovered it. It's a rapidly evolving city and it'll take time to find it's footing.
1
There is a dark underbelly to Vancouver.
As a 23 year old, I arrived in Vancouver from Iran in 1988. I had fled 8 years of the Iran-Iraq war, missile attacks, chemical attacks, the theocracy, etc., travelling through several countries, and when I arrived at the Vancouver airport, I was practically collapsing from the fatigue of 5 months on the road. I spoke both official languages and was a university graduate. I never expected the treatment I received in Vancouver. I was told they didn't want people like me; we just brought our problems to Canada. They proceeded to interrogate me at the airport (I had claimed refugee status). Since I was fluent in English, the immigration officials did not call social services, translators, or any other witnesses, and went to town on me. They basically did to me in Vancouver in 1988 what we nowadays call "harsh interrogation techniques." I remember as one point I was trembling so badly I could barely speak. After locking me up in a cold room for a long time, the interrogator told me I would either answer questions or they would put me away. I think the trauma of that 1st day in Canada was what motivated me to eventually leave Canada and become American. In the US, I earned my PhD (in physics) and now work for the federal government.
It's fashionable nowadays to criticize America for its treatment of Muslims, but let me tell you that my experience in America has been completely different.
As a 23 year old, I arrived in Vancouver from Iran in 1988. I had fled 8 years of the Iran-Iraq war, missile attacks, chemical attacks, the theocracy, etc., travelling through several countries, and when I arrived at the Vancouver airport, I was practically collapsing from the fatigue of 5 months on the road. I spoke both official languages and was a university graduate. I never expected the treatment I received in Vancouver. I was told they didn't want people like me; we just brought our problems to Canada. They proceeded to interrogate me at the airport (I had claimed refugee status). Since I was fluent in English, the immigration officials did not call social services, translators, or any other witnesses, and went to town on me. They basically did to me in Vancouver in 1988 what we nowadays call "harsh interrogation techniques." I remember as one point I was trembling so badly I could barely speak. After locking me up in a cold room for a long time, the interrogator told me I would either answer questions or they would put me away. I think the trauma of that 1st day in Canada was what motivated me to eventually leave Canada and become American. In the US, I earned my PhD (in physics) and now work for the federal government.
It's fashionable nowadays to criticize America for its treatment of Muslims, but let me tell you that my experience in America has been completely different.
8
This is one of our haters, you should move to Seattle and sit for hours on I-5,
I thought While Rock was part of Blaine WA.
I thought While Rock was part of Blaine WA.
1
Nearly 40 years ago I moved to Vancouver and was puzzled by what I found. For instance in the West End there were no traffic controls; no lights, no stop signs, no yield signs. The intersections were called "courtesy corners" and the driver on your right had the right of way. This generated millions of dollars of body work every year. Asking about this and other quaint features, I was told that "Vancouver is a hick's idea of a big city." Now the West End is a rabbit warren of one way streets, traffic circles, traffic lights, stop and yield signs and if you ask directions you'll often be told. " You can't get there from here."
Soon cars will be banned in Vancouver as a trip across the city, say from Burnaby to UBC, takes two to four hours during the day but late at night with no traffic, about forty minutes. The downtown traffic is totally hopeless, but we have lots of bike lanes and no freeways. The Advanced Light Rail Transit, euphemistically called "Sky Train" is far too small to handle rush hour traffic.
You might think the dope dispensaries would be a civilizing influence, but the municipal rules forbid the sale of edibles!
In the last 40 years Vancouver has done very well to maintain its status as "A hick's idea of a big city".
Soon cars will be banned in Vancouver as a trip across the city, say from Burnaby to UBC, takes two to four hours during the day but late at night with no traffic, about forty minutes. The downtown traffic is totally hopeless, but we have lots of bike lanes and no freeways. The Advanced Light Rail Transit, euphemistically called "Sky Train" is far too small to handle rush hour traffic.
You might think the dope dispensaries would be a civilizing influence, but the municipal rules forbid the sale of edibles!
In the last 40 years Vancouver has done very well to maintain its status as "A hick's idea of a big city".
7
Just watch out for falling televisions. A mentally ill person threw one out the window along with the rest of his possessions while I was walking down the street. He narrowly missed 3 pedestrians and damaged several cars severely. I think they have some problems there (like all big cities). It did unsettle us. San Francisco, too, is downright scary in some neighborhoods now. A pity.
1
So beautiful
1
I was born in 1939 and raised in Vancouver. Left when I was 21 to live in Toronto. Never appreciated the beauty, the sea, the mountains all visible from my bedroom window in the West End. Thought the world looked like that. I have since lived in many different places, seen many countries, but I have never seen another place like Vancouver. I visited Vancouver with my children a few years ago and they said " why did you leave? "
9
What a pile of fluff. Socially and economically one of the most troubled of the larger cities in Canada, unaffordable, huge income disparities - lots of real poverty, massive drug problems, health care in serious crisis, decades of poor to non-existent city planning, regressive zoning laws, serious traffic issues on major arteries, but none of this would figure on the radar of travel writers. Yes, it's beautiful to look at, great restaurants, fresh air, sports and tourist ops. But it takes more to make a city great.
4
Housing is on par with Toronto, still cheaper than San Fran, but housing is an issue in just about any desirable city.
Income disparities are less in Canada than the US, but growing.
Poverty exists everywhere, not a " Vancouver " thing.
Drug issues yes, and the latest fentanyl crisis is horrible, but again, drug issues exist even in Paris.
As for city planning, you are totally incorrect. How did all those new parks, extension of the seawall, zoning an entertainment districts, etc happen without planning. Vancouverism. Look it up.
Healthcare is not in serious crisis.
Traffic issues in a city. I don't think anyone will find that as news. The city actually is trying to alleviate it. More and better transit like the new Evergreen Extension on the Skytrain. Great Canada Line metro to and from YVR. New bike sharing service as well. In fact because of what the city has done, more than 50 percent of all trips downtown are done by foot, bike or transit.
Income disparities are less in Canada than the US, but growing.
Poverty exists everywhere, not a " Vancouver " thing.
Drug issues yes, and the latest fentanyl crisis is horrible, but again, drug issues exist even in Paris.
As for city planning, you are totally incorrect. How did all those new parks, extension of the seawall, zoning an entertainment districts, etc happen without planning. Vancouverism. Look it up.
Healthcare is not in serious crisis.
Traffic issues in a city. I don't think anyone will find that as news. The city actually is trying to alleviate it. More and better transit like the new Evergreen Extension on the Skytrain. Great Canada Line metro to and from YVR. New bike sharing service as well. In fact because of what the city has done, more than 50 percent of all trips downtown are done by foot, bike or transit.
7
Vancouver - yet another place wrecking itself with an infestation of money.
5
As a Portlander, I've spent a lot of time over many decades in and around Vancouver; a minimum of several long stays each year since the 70's. Over this time, I've developed several very close personal friendships with BC/Vancouver born folks. I love Vancouver and always will. However I am was disappointed, though not terribly surprised that the author sidestepped the dramatic impact of the massive infusion of money into Vancouver from Hong Kong, starting in the 80's has brought. This has changed it's overall cultural and politics as well as its older neighborhood characteristics, to name just a few major influences. It's understandably a very touchy cultural/political issue with some pretty pronounced negatives for a sizable number of native born residents. They will only share their increasing feelings of loss and regret confidentially. Without describing the tremendous infusion that money and foreigners has had, and continues to have on this wonderful city, a fascinating phenomena itself, one misses out on some big transformative elements that Vancouver wrestles with daily. Depending on the view of the changers or the changed, for better or for worse, as we know, many great international cities are ever changing. To really know Vancouver today, these sweeping changes need to be understood. In many ways, though not International, Portland it not far behind in similar unsettling ways.
12
"That Vancouver would spawn the cultlike yoga empire Lululemon ..." Greenpeace started here also.
7
Something not covered in this article is that it rains here. A lot. This is why the city is so green. But it's my home and I love it here.
7
But not in the summer.
Seattle and Vancouver: siblings separated by the 49th parallel.
Seattle and Vancouver: siblings separated by the 49th parallel.
3
I've only been once, for a convention, and I must say that Vancouver's convention center is the most beautiful I've been in--and I've been in a few!
I was pleasantly surprised by the food and drink: unexpectedly great tacos--rajas con crema, especially--and the Alibi Room is a world-class beer bar.
Hope to get back soon.
I was pleasantly surprised by the food and drink: unexpectedly great tacos--rajas con crema, especially--and the Alibi Room is a world-class beer bar.
Hope to get back soon.
4
What do people of Vancouver for a living? How can they afford the cost of living if they're always complaining about the rich Asians? Honestly I think any city will be a heaven for rich people only, regardless of race from now on.
3
Transplanted Seattle American since 2006. Both my husband and I work in downtown Vancouver but because we could only afford a larger home outside of the city, we moved to New Westminster, about 15 miles east and a short SkyTrain ride away (when it is running...). The author failed to address the growing number of people who live in the suburbs (or beyond) for affordable housing but continue to work in the city...
I go to Vancouver regularly on business and am always glad to do so...and especially lately to be away from the Trumpster fire. I find Canadians to be calm and pleasant, maybe it's lack of worry regarding health insurance.
But ultimately, many of the comments are correct. While the surroundings are indeed beautiful, there does seem to be an absence of something in the streets. I can't put my finger on it but its there; or not.
But ultimately, many of the comments are correct. While the surroundings are indeed beautiful, there does seem to be an absence of something in the streets. I can't put my finger on it but its there; or not.
9
As someone who had lived in this city all my life I have heard many descriptions about my city, my favourite one is " Vancouver is like a beautiful women with no soul "
1
The first time I was in Vancouver (there have two dozen visits since), Sigur Ros' Agaetis Byrjun had just been released. Within hours of arriving, I rented a bike, put on my headphones, and rode around Stanley Park with 'svefn-g-englar' blowing my mind. Somehow Vancouver as a city never fails to live up that first feeling. It's a beautiful, strange, blank canvas of a city that becomes whatever you make of it.
5
"...a good part of the money flowing into our city and bubbling our real estate prices is coming from people trying to escape countries where leaders have exactly that kind of power..."
As New Yorkers can attest, the people "escaping" those countries are the corrupt .001% who stole from their people, looted their treasuries, and laundered their ill-gotten gains in our real estate markets, while our bought-and-paid-for politicians turn a blind eye and the housing market grows ever more out of reach for our own citizens.
As New Yorkers can attest, the people "escaping" those countries are the corrupt .001% who stole from their people, looted their treasuries, and laundered their ill-gotten gains in our real estate markets, while our bought-and-paid-for politicians turn a blind eye and the housing market grows ever more out of reach for our own citizens.
2
You forgot to mention the cherry trees which are starting to bloom now. I have lived in the area for 25 years and I have never gotten tired of these beautiful trees.
I work in Vancouver but live in New Westminster which I find a much nicer city to call home. The commute can be stressful but it's worth it.
Vancouver has a lot to offer but it's definitely not cheap and if I had to comment on an issue, it would be homelessness and drug addiction. I always think that it's almost surreal how that a world of lost and forgotten souls exists within a supposedly world-class city. It's heartbreaking and unacceptable. I can totally understand all the comments of visitors that found this side of Vancouver shocking.
I work in Vancouver but live in New Westminster which I find a much nicer city to call home. The commute can be stressful but it's worth it.
Vancouver has a lot to offer but it's definitely not cheap and if I had to comment on an issue, it would be homelessness and drug addiction. I always think that it's almost surreal how that a world of lost and forgotten souls exists within a supposedly world-class city. It's heartbreaking and unacceptable. I can totally understand all the comments of visitors that found this side of Vancouver shocking.
5
Thanks for this lovely feature! I've lived in Vancouver for my entire life. Although I have spent time in many great cities around the world, I'm always happy to come home. Some people know the city as cold and unfriendly, but that isn't my experience. I don't live downtown, but near to it, and my neighbourhood feels like a community. It's vibrant with people of all ages and cultures, and people who work in many different fields. I'm familiar with many of the merchants and restauranteurs, and know some of them by name. When the weather is nice, people out walking say hello. My teenage son has grown up with friends from other cultures, and they all go downtown for food or movies, or just long walks around the streets and waterfront. I never worry for his safety. It's true that we've not yet been able to own a home, but for us, the tradeoff has been worth it.
6
Every time I go away - even to the world's most beautiful cities - my heart rejoices when I see Vancouver coming into view. Peace and freedom have been the hallmarks of my life because I was born in Vancouver and enjoyed the best Western popular culture had to offer within the protections of snow peaked mountains and abundant sea. "We are a coast people - there is nothing beyond us but water."
3
Not on the coast. Beyond (west of) you is a narrow, island-dotted inland sea, then gigantic Vancouver Island.
2
But Vancouver is on the Pacific Coast. The equally picturesque Gulf Islands and Vancouver Island are not a contiguous part of the West Coast any more than California's Channel Islands are.
2
I really enjoyed reading this beautifully written article about my hometown. Precise observations and an informed perspective.
10
And for no extra charge you can read the meme that the NYT is pushing hard that immigration is a constantly terrific thing. In Canada, of course. Now if we could only get those deplorable Americans to agree to that then we too would not have to go to Arab countries, Japan, Korea, China, Portugal or Spain (for instance) to hear those languages because people from all those countries would have immigrated to the USA. Brilliant!!
2
Vancouver has all that the author writes, plus a very active outdoor life. If there's anything to criticize there, I would offer the ugliest downtown residential architecture. How they could have allowed that to happen is beyond me, but maybe not. Maybe some folks thought it was all about individual expression. The only problem is that nothing was expressed. It all - almost without exception - resembles Soviet type apartment buildings.
5
Amen to that! just got back from a 5 day trip to Vancouver and agree with much of what the author has to say. But my partner and I were struck with the awful monotony of the downtown glass towers, especially the surrounding condos. Ran into one local while snow shoeing on Grouse Mountain (awesome!!) and he remarked that if it were not for the beauty of the surrounding mountains and water Vancouver would be one of the ugliest cities in Canada. Still, the author was spot on about the food scene and diversity. One positive he didn't mention was great public transit.
2
"If not for the beauty of the surrounding mountains and water"?? Do you even hear yourself talking??? The glass towers have mist and clouds that are either reflecting off of them or enveloping them. No architect can replicate this save the Creator himself. Vancouver is a special place--left my heart there.
1
Another surprising aspect of recent life in Vancouver is the large - huge - number of foreign students. In high schools. At the universities. And at the many other types of educational institutions and university satellites which have sprung up. Foreign students are delightful, just way out of proportion in recent years. For Vancouver they are an economy booster. Foreign students benefit from permanent residency policies which are essentially guaranteed. Condos, especially downtown, are filled with foreign students while Vancouverites can't afford to buy or rent here because decent jobs are scarce. From incorporation in 1886 Vancouver was always changing at a fast pace and this has certainly continued in ways we never anticipated thanks to short-sighted government policies and, sadly, a great deal of greed among those who have always made money a priority.
10
My only regret in life is that I spent 8 years of it in Vancouver.
5
There are far worse places to be in BC than Vanc. Nanaimo, for example...
Having lived in Van City for twenty years, I can totally appreciate why it receives so much attention and praise. It is most certainly a unique place - geographically and culturally.
That said, I see Vancouver as the most over-rated "international city" I have every lived in or visited. As touched upon in other comments, this is a city that lacks soul. The majority of people in Vancouver seem extremely phony or guarded - for reasons I cannot figure out. The people of any locale help define and enhance it. Sadly Vancouver needs to learn this lesson.
And did I mention how depressing the rain and 16 shades of grey are?
That said, I see Vancouver as the most over-rated "international city" I have every lived in or visited. As touched upon in other comments, this is a city that lacks soul. The majority of people in Vancouver seem extremely phony or guarded - for reasons I cannot figure out. The people of any locale help define and enhance it. Sadly Vancouver needs to learn this lesson.
And did I mention how depressing the rain and 16 shades of grey are?
5
My city of Seattle and Vancouver have a lot in common. In many respects, Vancouver has always seemed to me to be a slightly better version. The mountains are closer, it's more cosmopolitan and international, better parks, better public transit and they didn't foolishly build a highway right through the center of the city. We are both so secluded from the major population centers of our countries yet we seem to have very little interaction with each other. Vancouver is also a weird place...while Seattle's homeless problem is extraordinarily bad, parts of Vancouver look like a zombie set. I've encountered it several times and each time it's worse. Seattle is certainly expensive but it's also the home of Microsoft, Amazon, Boeing, Nordstrom and it has a branch office of literally every other tech company. To this day, I still cannot figure out how people afford Vancouver when their job prospects seem to be much less than ours. All in all, I wish the barriers between our 2 cities would come down...there's so much we have in common and could learn from each other. I share absolutely nothing in common with my fellow citizens in Alabama and the rest of Trump country except for a passport. The lines need to be redrawn...
23
Karen - I really wonder what your motive is in writing a post that simply does not represent the views of local residents and other visitors to the city. Fake news, comes to mind.
3
Sorry Bill, Karen points are what i saw as well in Vancouver.....
But I did see the sun one day. (was there 7 days)
But I did see the sun one day. (was there 7 days)
1
Bill - Imagine you get off the cruise ship and keep walking East through Gastown. The Downtown Eastside is a festering sore in an otherwise beautiful city. If that's what you saw of Vancouver then Karen's post would jibe with that experience.
2
We ended a cruise in Vancouver this past summer. I could not believe the huge amounts of mentally ill, homeless and drug addicts roaming everywhere throughout the city. Every city has it's problems; however, it was quite disturbing and it appeared that nothing much is being done about it. Hired guards employed by businesses standing on the sidewalks. Not welcoming at all. We have no desire to return. What a depressing place.
8
It's interesting that Vancouver is able to maintain its reputation as an international destination with some of the most expensive real estate on the planet with "mentally ill, homeless and drug addicts roaming everywhere".
4
Karen, I'm sorry you have such a negative view of my hometown. The problem with our challenges here is that there isn't always agreement on how to solve them. Things aren't always as simple as they appear. I'm sorry you seem unable to see the positive side of our city. I've visited many places bigger than Vancouver, with their own challenges, and always found things to enjoy. I was in Chicago last summer and thought it was a wonderful place, full of vitality and activity and friendly people. They have problems that horrify me, but my response isn't to name call and never return, but a heartfelt hope that an amazing city can resolve its troubles, and become even better, as we try to do in Vancouver.
"Every city has it's problems; however, it was quite disturbing and it appeared that nothing much is being done about it."
What would you have us do?
People get sick, disabled, addicted, old, poor. Is there not a neighbourhood in Minneapolis that has a disproportionate number of such people?
The city I live in is not - and never will be, if I have anything to say about it - all about your vacation. People actually live here. And yes, it's sort of unfortunate that a whole lot of poor people live so close to where floating hotels carrying people who expect some sort of Disneyfied Vancouver discharge their cargo.
What would you have us do?
People get sick, disabled, addicted, old, poor. Is there not a neighbourhood in Minneapolis that has a disproportionate number of such people?
The city I live in is not - and never will be, if I have anything to say about it - all about your vacation. People actually live here. And yes, it's sort of unfortunate that a whole lot of poor people live so close to where floating hotels carrying people who expect some sort of Disneyfied Vancouver discharge their cargo.
5
Someone should write about the vast numbers of empty apartments and condos that are being held as bolt-holes/Investments for overseas millionaires-to-oligarchs hedging their bets against the insecurity of living in their own country. These empty apartments and, in many cases houses, for which people pay cash, are not a small factor in the extraordinary housing costs in the greater Vancouver area.
24
And I forgot to add that, on a visit to Vancouver several weeks ago, on an evening walk along the shoreline of the West End, the number of black windows and curtain walls in the apartment and condo towers was astounding. There were buildings in which there were, after dark, only a handful of lights on.
4
Hey Howard - I read The Seattle Times and they seem to be mentioning the high costs of living there, too. And perhaps on your "nice evening stroll in the West End" perhaps many of the people of the units with lights out were to out enjoying the area's wonderful walk along the beaches and waterfront, or the vibrant eclectic stores in that area, or even perhaps visiting Seattle (a city we love - and also not without negatives.)
8
Hello Bill,
Those windows are dark night after night.
One of my colleagues just moved out of that area (Coal Harbour) he and his only ever saw one other set of neighbours on their floor.
Those windows are dark night after night.
One of my colleagues just moved out of that area (Coal Harbour) he and his only ever saw one other set of neighbours on their floor.
3
This article makes me want to visit the city, and enjoy what it has to offer. My main knowledge of Vancouver is either Tony Zhou's fun video "Vancouver Plays Itself" or that a plethora of films & TV show are shot up there.
However, I was disheartened to read about the skyrocketing housing prices that are pricing out the young and the artists, as a similar fate has befallen artists in Manhattan, San Francisco, and certain parts of Los Angeles. That is fate that is afflicting far too many focal-point cities (as tech and corporate business dominate and dull the vibrancy of socio-cultural enticements in the first place).
However, I was disheartened to read about the skyrocketing housing prices that are pricing out the young and the artists, as a similar fate has befallen artists in Manhattan, San Francisco, and certain parts of Los Angeles. That is fate that is afflicting far too many focal-point cities (as tech and corporate business dominate and dull the vibrancy of socio-cultural enticements in the first place).
4
we could easily pass laws limiting the "right" of foreign nationals to buy residential real estate of all types.
After relocating from Vancity to New York 4 years ago, my husband and I are ready to move back home. We miss the nature-embracing, tree-hugging, peaceful Pacific Northwest. New York is grand and splendid in every way imaginable, but the majestic natural beauty of Vancouver is too hard to resist. People call it hollow, shallow and soul-less. But to me, Vancouver's simplicity and serenity are unparalleled in North America. Vancourites seem to be much happier and carefree than most people that I've met in New York. Yet, its beauty is not without flaws. Even though the government finally imposed regulations in attempt to rein in the ridiculous real estate market that was rapidly spiraling out of control, the long-term impact is yet to be seen. Many of my Vancouver friends are not from the city originally. And I'm worried that by the time I move back to Vancouver, they would all be gone because of the unaffordable living situation. Going back home will be accompanied by a mixture of bittersweet feelings.
12
Most people living in NYC are not from New York.
Vancouver proper (not the suburbs) has become a city for tourists, investors, and retirees, as the majority of comments attest. The crazy housing prices are more a symptom of the problem than the cause. The problem is a total lack of economic depth. The old industries—lumber, paper, mining, fishing— are a shadow of what they were. There are start-ups, as in many cities, but very few medium sized, established STEM companies, and no big ones. Heavy manufacturing is close to non-existent. What there is is a fragile, life-style based service economy, providing crummy jobs without long-term prospects for attractive young people willing to live with roommates.
But the city has good universities, good recreational facilities, a progressive vibe, and a tolerable climate if you overlook the really rainy years (like this one). Foodies are in heaven and the top of the upper middle class can still afford a home with a garden close to downtown. If you have kids and a family income over $250,000 (at most 3% of the native population) you can just live here, but your kids, if they have ability and drive, will leave, because there are few good jobs. If the kids are laggards, they'll stay, in your house. I've seen the pattern time and again.
So: foreign investors with college-aged kids and spouses who want a relaxed life-style, rich retirees, some well paid people mostly on the government payroll, and assorted singles. Not much on which to build a real city.
But the city has good universities, good recreational facilities, a progressive vibe, and a tolerable climate if you overlook the really rainy years (like this one). Foodies are in heaven and the top of the upper middle class can still afford a home with a garden close to downtown. If you have kids and a family income over $250,000 (at most 3% of the native population) you can just live here, but your kids, if they have ability and drive, will leave, because there are few good jobs. If the kids are laggards, they'll stay, in your house. I've seen the pattern time and again.
So: foreign investors with college-aged kids and spouses who want a relaxed life-style, rich retirees, some well paid people mostly on the government payroll, and assorted singles. Not much on which to build a real city.
15
This is an excellent overview of the situation (from another longtime resident).
4
I don't know why everyone whines about rain. We don't have to shovel it. Plus it keeps Cascadia green.
Rain is unusual in the summer (Canada through Labour Day).
Rain is unusual in the summer (Canada through Labour Day).
I've visited over 45 countries and lived in eight of them and Vancouver is the most perfect city.
8
Loved the old Robson Street and the Starbucks on opposing corner at one of its intersections..
Sorry to disappoint you but one of those Starbucks on Robson and Thurlow are gone. A bunch of hipster coffee places opened nearby since it's closing, though.
Being from San Francisco, I was expecting a similar city when my wife and I recently visited. Well....the architecture, especially the new architecture, is underwhelming. The earthen architecture, i.e. natural beauty, tho, more than makes up for the lack of mad made construction. The people are friendly, the food is great, the real estate makes San Francisco look like a bargain. The city is changing and change is almost always painful and positive at the same time. Next time you're there, check out the "Drive" in Little Italy. Fabulous.
11
Vancouver's real estate Hindenburg is about to make its final landing and the humanity cries will be deafening. A 20 year real estate boom rocket-fueled by laundered off-shore deposits and massive liar mortgages (on a scale that would make Bernie Madoff squirm) does not make for great future economic stability. Huge numbers of houses on the traditionally affluent west side are empty, held as capital investments by off-shore groups. Small houses on the east side built cheaply 100 years ago on tiny lots as modest working class homes or for new immigrants, now can cost $2,000,000 or more and are being bought by two income professional families with massive mortgages. But at least the east side is not empty. Condos can cost as much as in NYC or London but, as with the west side house, vast numbers are held by off-shore interests as investments. One benefit of the traffic choking bike lanes is that gridlocked commuters have lots of time each evening to look up and count the condo suites that don't have any lights on. On a positive note, the hockey team is so bad that the "I can't believe we just lost game 7 of the Stanley Cup finals" riot only occurs every 20 years or so.
12
You lost me at "traffic-choking bike lanes". I doubt if you understand what cities are about.
The one thing I don't like about Vancouver is it is a city of complainers. We seem to be a whiny and down lot, we love to bemoan our city. Maybe it's the rain.
10
Toronto is the same way. The whining gets boring real quick.
2
That sounds like a plus to me. Don't-worry-be-happy is for indolence on a tropical beach. Some of us prefer to be more involved.
1
When I lived in Buffalo, I never understood why the folks in Toronto always whined. Years later, I still don't understand.
1
What a very informative article about a much admired city. Visiting somewhere in Canada is on my bucket list. I expect it will be Quebec City. I enjoy practicing my French.
3
Quebec City is by far the best urban place in Canada to visit. Its architecture is much older than what's found in many European cities, and it takes a while to realize that you are still in North America. But its not a place to practice your school-learned French. Quebec films usually have subtitles when they play in France.
8
I finally was able to visit Vancouver five years ago, traveling with a friend from Australia. We found much to like (including the best B&B ever), but both she and I were underwhelmed after all the build-up. It was Victoria (our other stop in BC), that impressed the hell out us, and in every way.
7
As a third generation Vancouverite who fled with husband and baby in tow 25 years ago, it's no longer pleasant to visit 'Gotham City', it's downtown dark from skyscrapers, roadways clogged with single person vehicles idling, waiting, blocking flow. Everywhere is packed and so people stay home. McHomes creep up and up the mountain sides, and while the diversity is enriching, aesthetic and cultural clashes are divisive and fuel resentment. Of course there are great aspects of Vancouver, but this article was misleading in the extreme.
7
I agree with many of the comments that downtown Vancouver could be more inviting. The city isn't perfect. But neither are Seattle, Portland, or San Francisco (S.F. is politically dysfunctional, has dreary weather, and by many measures offers a low quality of life).
But the explicit or implicit anti-Asian sentiment that runs through many of the comments is disturbing. (I decline to use the term "racist," because that term is so amorphous as to be meaningless—almost anyone except a saint like Jimmy Carter can be accused of "racism," depending on one's definition.) What's wrong with Asians impacting Vancouver, any more than Jews impact New York, South Americans Miami, or Latinos my own San José neighborhood?
But the explicit or implicit anti-Asian sentiment that runs through many of the comments is disturbing. (I decline to use the term "racist," because that term is so amorphous as to be meaningless—almost anyone except a saint like Jimmy Carter can be accused of "racism," depending on one's definition.) What's wrong with Asians impacting Vancouver, any more than Jews impact New York, South Americans Miami, or Latinos my own San José neighborhood?
24
I would like to agree with Cyclist on the word 'racism'. I concluded a few months ago that there is no such thing as racism. Or: racism does not exist. Or: the term is useless; in fact, pernicious. Whatever you want to say, it is better to find other words. The problem with 'racism' also applies to other words, such as 'misogyny.' I am currently back in Vancouver, the town were I grew up. One common complaint: the politicians benefit from increasing the population with foreigner due to the "transfer tax" they get when houses are sold. But the politicians have not modified the infrastructure and services to accommodate all the new people.
4
I so agree with you. I love Vancouver and the racist anti-Chinese comments here are really disturbing. (And I will call them racist.)
11
It is fascinating that so many Americans feel qualified to judge our trepidation about the effect of the massive Chinese presence in Vancouver. And most of these comments come from tourists who know nothing.
2
I have lived in Vancouver all of my 57+ years. When I went to high school in central Vancouver, I was part of a mix of Chinese, South Asian, Jewish, and 'WASP' students. No one group dominated. Diversity has been part of my city for decades - as an adolescent, I remember being able to eat out at any number of restaurants that represented a range of 'ethnic' cuisines. Has some of this changed? Yes. Do I wish it wasn't so expensive to live here? Yes. But when I travel to other cities in Europe and North America, I find many other places with expensive housing in the center of the city, especially cities that have chosen to maintain a dynamic downtown area, as Vancouver has. Vancouver, like every city, is not perfect. But the good parts far outweigh the not so good parts. As much as I love to travel elsewhere, I am always happy to return home to my vibrant, green, safe city - filled with citizens who have come from all over the world and for the most part, are thrilled to be here. But it rains a lot here (especially this winter!) so don't move or visit if you don't like this type of weather - but when the sun does come out, it is glorious....and everyone is outside enjoying the city. chatting and smiling to strangers, and not lacking in soul at all.
19
If you are an artist, Vancouver is the place to be. From Stanley Parks' Blue Herons , Lions Gate Bridge, The Sea Wall the possibilities are endless. The back alleys where the Binners roam provide the other side of the city.
Ishrat Khan
www.ishratkhan.com
Ishrat Khan
www.ishratkhan.com
5
We visit Vancouver about twice a year because our son goes to UBC. The real estate market appears to be driven by money laundering. Chinese and other millionaires are parking their money in real estate that isn't inhabited by the owners or renters. There are some properties that are bought and fixed up but the prices are astonishing (1.5 million for a teardown). There is a great deal of diversity but not very much assimilation. Richmond, south of Vancouver, is one big Chinatown. We've been told that other immigrant communities are the same, tiny versions of the home country. We can't compete with Chinese millionaires so we gave up any dreams of purchasing property. Don't know what the prices are like in Squamish or points east, but suburban living isn't why we would wanted to move to Vancouver. BTW, traffic and parking in Vancouver (they outlawed freeways) isn't any worse than other urban centers.
6
When you go to visit your son (And isn't UBC in a gorgeous setting? Check out the Museum of Anthropology and the UBC Botanical Gardens), make sure to go to Richmond for Chinese food. It's a great place to eat.
Several people have commented on foreign absentee property owners snapping up many houses and condos and causing Vancouver to resemble a ghost town in some areas to which I say 'welcome to the 2000s'. Many cities are being bled dry by absentee foreign ownership:Take London, my birthplace, where the once humming areas of residential squares are now dead. Then there are whole buildings in Manhattan where the living space is owned by numbered companies. Toronto still lives but for how much longer? A nice family home up the street from me has just been snapped up by a local Iranian-born architect in the neighbourhood so his mother has a place to stay for 2 months in the summer. There's just too much money sloshing around looking for investment opportunities.
My memories of Vancouver are of Stanley Park, the amazing West Coast First Nation art and the wonderful ease of life, however, I do prefer scruffy, vibrant Toronto.
My memories of Vancouver are of Stanley Park, the amazing West Coast First Nation art and the wonderful ease of life, however, I do prefer scruffy, vibrant Toronto.
11
One of the Coal Harbour condos that has no lights on at night belongs to a former colleague who's now retired and spends most of his time on cruise ships.
He's a Saskatchewan farm boy who had a career in teaching and saved up enough to enjoy an expensive condo and comfortable lifestyle. Is it simple envy that irks us over people who can afford more than one residence?
He's a Saskatchewan farm boy who had a career in teaching and saved up enough to enjoy an expensive condo and comfortable lifestyle. Is it simple envy that irks us over people who can afford more than one residence?
5
Vancouver used to great pre-1986. Now it is commonly referred to as Hong-couver. The Asian exodus to the city has stolen its soul. Today there is no there there. A mass of modernity and influences that old timers no longer recognize. The monster houses built upon every square centimeter attest to this.
10
I LOVE Vancouver. The people are friendly and there's many things to do, particularly if you like the outdoors. I'm a walker so I try to avoid driving if I have to. I am amazed at how clean the city is. Stanley Park puts Central Park to shame. This is a city worth visiting by all means, regardless of what the author writes.
12
Do not kid yourself. Vancouver is a Chinese city in disguise. The wealthy Chinese moved here to get Canadian citizenship. Many native Canadians do not like or care for them. The glass buildings are really ugly but the Chinese seem to love them. If it helps the local economy so be it. Portland Oregon is prettier and the people seem to be nicer.
13
Being in Nevada are you really well positioned to speak for "many native Canadians"? Many people I know love the multicultural nature of the country, which includes people from China.
16
If you ever live in Houston, Texas, then you will know why I love Vancouver that much. Only by comparing the two, you appreciate what you have. We have already visited many times before, and we are coming to visit again this summer to a city of all seasons.
13
@usok - Beautiful city? No, beautiful setting; for a month or two. Try visiting in September-May....
Tourist!
Tourist!
1
I am surprised by all the negative comments here. Yes, I know Vancouver has changed a lot and perhaps for the worse since I lived there during the 1980s. But the natural beauty and the laid back culture are still there. Vancouver is not for everyone - especially stodgy old people who cannot appreciate progressive culture. And Vancouver has some of the most beautiful women in the world!!
12
Vancouver is a great place but not a great city.
Our cost of living combined with the quality of our politicians results in a significant issue. (I'm talking municipal and provincial in this case.) If things continue as they are going we will end up like Venice - just a tourist destination and not a living city.
Our cost of living combined with the quality of our politicians results in a significant issue. (I'm talking municipal and provincial in this case.) If things continue as they are going we will end up like Venice - just a tourist destination and not a living city.
4
It's been over 30 years, since I left Vancouver for Berkeley, but I still think of it as home. Vancouver is a lot like SF, but without the rain - isolated geographically from the rest of the nation, and as a result developing its own quirky sense of culture and eclectic influences from across the Pacific. My childhood view of the city, growing up in Chinatown and the Downtown East Side, is a markedly different vision from how writers like this portray it. My view was of a tough, grimy, largely one story high town with not a lot happening, and it astounds me the poetic waxing about this city that others write about. Of course as a child I took the backdrop of the North Shore mountains for granted; only in retrospect and on coming back do I see them afresh. Or more, it is a vision of the city one only sees west of Main Street, and north of West Broadway - that is, of the largely privileged middle and upper class. My Vancouver was rather different from this, and closer to the dull banality overwrought with nature that Jeff Walls photographs show, for instance: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/77/c6/43/77c643bebf3c444b.... I'm still waiting for someone to write about this other half of Vancouver.
10
The other Vancouver--including the Vancouver "netherworld," in Brian Fawcett's term--is vividly described in Bruce Serafin's memoir *Colin's Big Thing* (2004).
I think you mean it doesn't rain in SF (20.8") . Vancouver gets 45.4"
As a comparison, Seattle gets 36.1" and it's even more geographically isolated. Sometimes that's a blessing.
As a comparison, Seattle gets 36.1" and it's even more geographically isolated. Sometimes that's a blessing.
I've had coffee at that Starbucks. It was nice. Tasted pretty much the same as any other, I suppose.
1
Those dismissing Vancouver as "shallow" or "boring" should take a long look in the mirror.
From a Vancouverite's perspective, it's patently clear that many of these comments are written by people who haven't actually lived here. The truth is that the city is what you make of it -- all sorts of different people living diverse lives in a diverse and thriving city. To say that it is "shallow" is to imply that you've taken a lazy approach to living here. If you expect the city to hit you over the head with some single and overbearing flavour, like a vacation resort, then you'll be disappointed. But if you take the trouble to get to know people and communities, you'll find a city very much alive. And it's hard to argue that it's not one of, if not the most beautiful cities on the planet.
Granted, the affordability issues are real. But who can blame those who can afford it from coming here from abroad? I certainly would.
Bottom line: You need to see Vancouver yourself to understand what the hype is about. Preferably during the Spring, in which the downtown core erupts in cherry blossoms. You'll quickly understand why it's as expensive as it is. Or you can just post ignorant and disparaging comments on the NYT; we're happy either way :)
From a Vancouverite's perspective, it's patently clear that many of these comments are written by people who haven't actually lived here. The truth is that the city is what you make of it -- all sorts of different people living diverse lives in a diverse and thriving city. To say that it is "shallow" is to imply that you've taken a lazy approach to living here. If you expect the city to hit you over the head with some single and overbearing flavour, like a vacation resort, then you'll be disappointed. But if you take the trouble to get to know people and communities, you'll find a city very much alive. And it's hard to argue that it's not one of, if not the most beautiful cities on the planet.
Granted, the affordability issues are real. But who can blame those who can afford it from coming here from abroad? I certainly would.
Bottom line: You need to see Vancouver yourself to understand what the hype is about. Preferably during the Spring, in which the downtown core erupts in cherry blossoms. You'll quickly understand why it's as expensive as it is. Or you can just post ignorant and disparaging comments on the NYT; we're happy either way :)
29
I'm from Vancouver. It is shallow and boring... And funny to think that looking in the mirror should be a cure.
The author claims DTES has the 'lowest per capita income in North America.' That's just a bold-faced lie.
2
Tell me more Kyle D.
The DTES is abominable, and should be a great source of national shame for those of us in Canada. That said, I don't have hte numbers, and I'd like to take a look at them if you do.
The DTES is abominable, and should be a great source of national shame for those of us in Canada. That said, I don't have hte numbers, and I'd like to take a look at them if you do.
1
Vancouver is a city in decline. Sure, it's beautiful. Sure, it's got great restaurants and many other appealing characteristics. BUT -- this city is pricing people out. A mass exodus is underway, especially for artists and young families. And small businesses are being killed off, one by one. I live in Kitsilano and along 4th Avenue (the main strip) there are over 20 store fronts up for lease. Small businesses have vanished and been replaced by "lifestyle" mega-brands like Patagonia, Urban Outfitters, Lululemon et al. Houses in the area are sold and then flipped again a few months later. It's criminal and the efforts of the government to curtail the housing market have been tepid at best. And tell me please -- what economy is there in Vancouver that can support single family homes on the market for 3.5 million dollars? Of course, the author also doesn't mention that there has been a opioid crisis in this city for decades now. In the past year, there have been over 900 deaths due to Fentanyl. This city sold its soul a long time ago and the reaping is just around the corner. Before long, Vancouver will be a glorified tourist town staffed by seasonal workers and populated by drug dealers and the foreign nouveau riche. As for me, I'm outta here this summer. Only rats stay on a sinking ship. I used to love you Vancouver, but you broke my goddamn heart.
47
Just like NYC.
10
Right on the mark. I am a university prof, my wife is a material engineer for a Japanese car manufacturer, we simply cannot afford to buy a house in Vancouver. Options are either to rent some cookie-cutter condo, or if you need something bigger to commute from the suburbs (i.e., ethnic ghettos) wiith an atrocious public transit service. We know of many other upper-middle class people who have been priced out. The most frustrating part of it all is that the local real estate craze is completely artificial, and for most of all, it is fed by a tax-evading an money-laundering international scheme, known to everyone who's been paying attention. As soon as an opportunity shows we are moving back to the US (nothwithstanding its current political madness). Vancouver has been hugely disappointing to say the least.
4
I'm amazed that you don't flee to Victoria like so many folks seem to be doing.
1
I do love my hometown, but the closer I get to retirement, the more I look towards smaller towns within a day's drive. The congestion in many suburbs is crazy - trips that took less than 10 minutes up to a few years ago now take 30 or more on a regular basis. It is unlikely that my university aged kids will be able to afford to live close by without a real estate crash, which is sad given that 3 of my 4 siblings live very close by with their families, but such is life when realtors advertise starter homes in the Cdn$750,000 to Cdn$1,000,000 range (I live in a stupidly expensive suburb).
Vancouver is a terrific place for active folks; moderate climate, easy access to skiing, hiking, watersports, biking, tennis, golf, etc. There is a considerable diversity in the population, but there are some who harbour racial resentments regardless of their own background - this is likely true in most diverse cities; at least it's something I've seen in many places I've travelled in North America and the U.K.
Vancouver is a terrific place for active folks; moderate climate, easy access to skiing, hiking, watersports, biking, tennis, golf, etc. There is a considerable diversity in the population, but there are some who harbour racial resentments regardless of their own background - this is likely true in most diverse cities; at least it's something I've seen in many places I've travelled in North America and the U.K.
13
Great read. Amazing it doesn't mention the rain once. The weather is the most memorable part of Vancouver.
7
The Vancouver that I knew 1988 - 1994 is long gone. It's become, as predicted then "a forest of high rises." This article emphasizes 2 - 3 blocks of the heritage section of Gastown. It does not capture the essence of Vancouver.
My main reason for moving out of Vancouver was its traffic. Merely getting food became risky. My Montreal street smarts failed me when confronted with the massive number of Vancouver drivers. I loved the city, but the crush of cars ruined everything. All the events within the city became parking events. I wrote to the Mayor over the long line-ups for buses in the morning going to work. He said at that time (1990's) there was a car in Vancouver for every man, woman and child. Some innovations to reduce traffic by increasing public transportation have taken place with the sky train and extensive bike paths as examples but not enough. The downtown core is sacrificed for automobiles whereas in many advanced cities in the world, the downtowns are becoming car free.
If you visit, leave your car at home, it's more fun to walk around and Vancouver has excellent skytrain and bike path systems.
My main reason for moving out of Vancouver was its traffic. Merely getting food became risky. My Montreal street smarts failed me when confronted with the massive number of Vancouver drivers. I loved the city, but the crush of cars ruined everything. All the events within the city became parking events. I wrote to the Mayor over the long line-ups for buses in the morning going to work. He said at that time (1990's) there was a car in Vancouver for every man, woman and child. Some innovations to reduce traffic by increasing public transportation have taken place with the sky train and extensive bike paths as examples but not enough. The downtown core is sacrificed for automobiles whereas in many advanced cities in the world, the downtowns are becoming car free.
If you visit, leave your car at home, it's more fun to walk around and Vancouver has excellent skytrain and bike path systems.
5
I grew up in Vancouver and moved away in 1978. I think of living in Vancouver dating a very attractive airhead. Apologies in advance to anyone who may be offended by the reference to an airhead.
9
Thank you for saying that. For years I've been referring to Vancouver as the "blonde bimbo of North American cities", and while I apologize for the sexist overtones (hey, there are male BBs out there as well), i have to say that while Vancouver may have great looks, there's nary a brain to be found in its pretty head. Hedonism consistently trumps cultural sophistication in Vancouver. As a native Vancouverite who remembers and sorely misses the long-ago days when this was not the case, I think I may make that claim.
4
I call them the "Brain-Dead Beautiful People", also known as Granville Street D-Bags.
1
Greenpeace, cyberpunk, and Gen X all came from Vancouver. It's more than just a pretty face.
2
This article is nothing but a touristy puff piece written by a "Native" Vancouverite.
Fact is that Vancouver was voted the best city to live in the world around 2005 or so fast forward to 2017....it's now the 2nd most expensive in the world.
Vancouver's fate was sealed when after Expo '86 the land (False Creek basin) was sold to one developer and he was given free hand to develop it to the max AND the Federal government put citizenship up for sale for $250K CDN a pop....Hong Kong was remanded back to China and the elite of Hong Kong bought refugee expensive apartments as a fall back position to run to and now the city looks like the backdrop for "Blade Runner" with an incredible "empty but owned" real estate boon.
I lived there for many years but left in 1998 when Vancouver passed the tipping point and changed from "Lotusland" to distopia....too bad.
Fact is that Vancouver was voted the best city to live in the world around 2005 or so fast forward to 2017....it's now the 2nd most expensive in the world.
Vancouver's fate was sealed when after Expo '86 the land (False Creek basin) was sold to one developer and he was given free hand to develop it to the max AND the Federal government put citizenship up for sale for $250K CDN a pop....Hong Kong was remanded back to China and the elite of Hong Kong bought refugee expensive apartments as a fall back position to run to and now the city looks like the backdrop for "Blade Runner" with an incredible "empty but owned" real estate boon.
I lived there for many years but left in 1998 when Vancouver passed the tipping point and changed from "Lotusland" to distopia....too bad.
33
Our friend's son does work for Telus in the city. One of his jobs is to land permission to enter properties for work to be done. He says, in Shaughnessy, out of 120 homes, 80 were either vacant or had little to no furniture. Ding.
14
For this immigrant to Canada, the country is a country of small towns, and its ethos is still that of small towns. Canadians are friendly because they expect to say hello and have that 'hello' returned. We can comment on something and usually find acceptance if not full agreement on our opinion. (And if not, we're too polite to pick an argument.) Vancouver and Toronto are aberrant aspects of Canadiana. I don't think Canada does big cities very well. So come to Vancouver for the great food and then get out to some of the nearby small towns - like Horseshoe Bay over at the edge of Howe Sound, or even cross the Sound and visit little Gibsons, with its award-winning fresh water and cute little downtown street (yeah, basically it's one road deep.) Enjoy the sea views, eat more great food, and chat with the laid-back locals.
12
This appears to be the view of an elitist fictionalising writer, an attempt to put some sort of acceptable gloss on a unacceptably schizophrenic congeries which, in accepting all inputs, especially that of the nouveau riche with no stake in the community, has become a sucking blight on the rest of the land.
17
Having been living in Vancouver for the past seven years, I can say like pretty much most newcomers that the setting and outdoors are outstanding by far, but the city itself is overrated. It is not just a matter of cost of living that is outrageous, but the quality itself. Vancouver strikes one as an anti-intellectual place that busies itself with real estate ruled by foreign investments at the expense of affordable housing, or basic public needs like a second subway line east-west. Not to forget navel gazing (they call it "the best place on earth"), and all this unbearable body culture fetish (yoga, sushi, organic food, tattoos, drug culture, etc.) at the expense of genuine human connection. No wonder Vancouver is also dog city: pets are more valued than people. The social scene is quite puzzling, with its passive aggressive twist. No one here will be "in our face", like in any American city, while at the same time friendship comes as a rare currency. The best word to describe interactions is shallow, and the best testimony is the excess of politeness as a token of social defensiveness (really funny to observe). Vancouver is no Shangri-la, rather some pretentious city that has consistently failed to plan for the next step, or create a real, warm and benevolent local culture. If you're thinking about moving out west, you should consider Portland or San Francisco over Vancouver.
30
I couldn't agree more. The anti-intellectual atmosphere is overwhelming. Everyday the radio news tells us about some great research the great university in the great city did...usually consisting of little more than a self-report form completed by a small group. After 15 years almost everyone I knew when I first came has packed up and left. Most restaurants have closed and been replaced by sushi, over and over. Little diversity in food. Very little culture, with the arts stuck in a strange version of 1970's conceptualism. Public art? Usually consists of a temporary photo stuck on a wall or words written somewhere. It's about the most boring place I have ever visited.
3
Move to Las Vegas. Never a boring moment and a lot cheaper.
3
I love all generalizing of over 1 million people!! Don't forget there are two world class universities (that would give Yale a run for its money) in Vancouver. By your criteria, Portland would fit the description too, doesn't it? And you are knocking people for being healthy? All those trends you criticize all spread throughout the US as well. You think there is dearth of people your describe in NYC? Or, god forbid, New Haven? Pets?! You sound like a bitter old person who somehow had a bad experience Vancouver - and you choose to condemn the entire city and it's more than 1 million people.
7
Great article until he started to talked about "oppressive regime"... COME ON! This could've been an unbiased journal solely focused on the lifestyles and nature of vancouver. You had to bring it up didn't you?! Why mix in politics and bashing on other countries systems whenever you feel like to?
1
The famed Guardian newspaper reports today that those living in Vancouver experience a higher degree of social isolation the most cities of its size. They are working to get people to actually relate to each other! Cause? They think it maybe the rainy climate and cultural diversity with language barriers. Not the best spot to figure when considering a career or retirement!
6
I will admit I did not read all the way through this piece of tripe, but indeed to me, as a citizen of Vancouver, it appears to be almost nothing but. That is to say, it makes a great tourism brochure for attracting tourists on behalf of the tourism bureau, but presented as talking about actual residents it is ridiculous. Start with Gastown, discussed and pictured at the top along with its (electric driven) "steam" clock, is almost nothing but a tourist trap on a par with Disneyland. You will indeed hear a broad variety of languages and accents on the street there, but almost all of them belong to visitors. The rest of the article seems to be in the same vein. Be it said, Vancouver is indeed incredibly diverse and a wonderful place to live, but this article touches/discusses/points to almost none of the reasons why.
6
Wow - I cannot believe the amount of negative comments. I lived in Vancouver for 30 years before moving to Toronto. I miss Vancouver every day and I plan on moving back on day. There is nothing like the natural beauty of the city and the diversity that the author described. It's not perfect, but I love Vancouver - warts and all.
9
Don't know how long you've been gone but expect it to be changed. That happened to us. We were really surprised, almost taken aback, when we got back here. It always takes longer to get used to being back in Vancouver than to adjust to a new place. Funny that.
3
Lived here almost forever and it was paradise from the early 1960s to late 1970s. But then that's a common pattern. Real jobs and great housing began to get difficult ca. 1980 and the real problem with economy-coping-ideas is government policy at local and national levels particularly. Naive immigration policies. Awful local planning since the 1980s. Yet ... ! We're here, we're back, we're very fortunate to live at the beaches and areas where all the good stuff is, and the classical music and jazz festival are fabulous, and so are the film societies, aspects of UBC, and of course the restaurants.
12
The thing about overwriting is it is overwritten
Thanks for the inspiration! Great article. I'm going to visit Vancouver next month (already booked tickets at https://lowcostclub.ca/ ). Want to spend the afternoon at Granville Island and admire the Vancouver in all its natural beauty at Stanley Park. It seems to be unforgettable trip.
2
Go to the UBC Museum of Anthropology. It is absolutely wonderful, and to me a very spiritual place. Besides the bigger displays they have drawers and drawers of smaller objects that are fascinating. Be sure to go outside too. I am a reserved person spiritually but was very moved by the museum.
2
Beautifully written column. Helped me understand Vancouver a little better than I had before. And good luck with the rising housing prices - the plague of San Francisco, Seattle, Portland and LA - not sure anyone knows how to solve that one.
1
Thanks to Timothy Taylor on his appreciation of Vancouver. It should be noted that as "younger man" who is a professor of creative writing at U.British Columbia (in Vancouver, where else?), he has a certain take on the city of my birth - seven plus decades ago - that others may not share. For those put off by the more negative - and occasionally, bigoted - comments here, I can only remark that Vancouver is what you make it. Sure it is ridiculously expensive and can be a lonely place. It can also be a place of great natural beauty, joyous opportunity and lyric vision. The same praises and criticisms can be made of L.A., San Francisco, Seattle and the great eastern cities.
Most Vancouverites are from elsewhere. The usual stat is that about 3/4 of the current population is from somewhere else. And not just "Asia". I have neighbours from Scotland, Italy, Estonia, Australia, small town Canada and some place called California. As one of those rare homegrown Vancouverites, I can say the place is not for the stolid, intolerant, and parochial. To everyone else: Welcome.
Most Vancouverites are from elsewhere. The usual stat is that about 3/4 of the current population is from somewhere else. And not just "Asia". I have neighbours from Scotland, Italy, Estonia, Australia, small town Canada and some place called California. As one of those rare homegrown Vancouverites, I can say the place is not for the stolid, intolerant, and parochial. To everyone else: Welcome.
17
I'm never surprised by the comments when the NY Times publishes an even modestly positive piece on a NA city. Like much of the content on the Internet, readers with first hand experience with the city start pointing out all the blemishes and warts on the "product". I suppose it's the same reason that the official online forums for durable goods like cars, TVs and refrigerators have a lot more angry, negative criticism than gushing, positive reviews. Is it really always sunny in Philadelphia? Even if that was true, someone would say that it isn't sunny at night. Vancouver is not a utopia, but it's a whole lot more livable than the rest of the continent's big urban areas. The worst thing about it is that sun only comes out during the baseball season. The article already checked off the obvious positive aspects and the comments section is flush with the negative attributes, so there's no point in covering that ground again. But suffice it to say that Vancouver and its citizens should be working to make a good thing better and all indication are that they are doing just that.
1
I was lucky enough to win a Safeway sweepstakes whose grand prize was a trip to Expo 86...only three short days to explore the fair as well as get a taste of the city. I've been hungry to get back ever since. Thanks for the great article and the huge-format photos!
2
I'm a New Yorker with family in Vancouver. On one hand, it is hard to have family on the other side of the continent. Happily though, it gives me a reason to visit this fascinating city. Problems to be sure (like real estate insanity that rivals New York's), but still a great place in which to spend some time.
6
I have several relatives in Coquitlam and friends throughout the Greater Vancouver area. All of them are torn between the need for progress and the despair of environmental exploitation and foreign ownership. Once land is sold, it's gone, and the highest bidder is rarely the best guardian.
11
I feel so very fortunate to live just north of Seattle (a great city in and of itself), just a stone's throw away from Vancouver. We get up there at least once every 6-8 weeks.
8
Seattle UW Architecture students like me and my buddies went up the highway as often as possible to see what new and exciting was going on in the Northland. It was always worth the trip. It still is a half century, whole carreer later. JGAIA
1
Wonderful city! Enjoyed the many visits to Vancouver and it's unique setting.
2
Having lived in Vancouver for almost 20 years, I echo Timothy Taylor's praise. It is an utterly wonderful city in which to live: beautiful, accessible, energetic and diverse. However he glosses over an ugly factor in its stratospherically unaffordable real estate market, non-resident ownership.
Vancouver has become a safe haven for murky offshore money, free of any obligation to pay taxes on the income that generates this wealth. A telling statistic is the high rate of child poverty reported in West Vancouver, one of the wealthiest suburbs of the city. The statistic is, of course, bogus, entirely driven by the high incidence of mothers living in multi-million dollar homes filing income tax returns reporting low incomes while their wealthy husbands live off shore for just enough time to avoid the need to pay income taxes in the country where their families live. Government, as usual, turns a blind eye and the citizens are approaching the boiling point as they take in 16 year olds driving $100k cars with "L's" plastered on their rear windows, rightfully suspicious their mothers are claiming GST credits. The solution is obvious: tax off shore residential real estate investors on their world incomes, as Canadian residents are taxed, with tough anti-avoidance mechanisms.
Vancouver has become a safe haven for murky offshore money, free of any obligation to pay taxes on the income that generates this wealth. A telling statistic is the high rate of child poverty reported in West Vancouver, one of the wealthiest suburbs of the city. The statistic is, of course, bogus, entirely driven by the high incidence of mothers living in multi-million dollar homes filing income tax returns reporting low incomes while their wealthy husbands live off shore for just enough time to avoid the need to pay income taxes in the country where their families live. Government, as usual, turns a blind eye and the citizens are approaching the boiling point as they take in 16 year olds driving $100k cars with "L's" plastered on their rear windows, rightfully suspicious their mothers are claiming GST credits. The solution is obvious: tax off shore residential real estate investors on their world incomes, as Canadian residents are taxed, with tough anti-avoidance mechanisms.
31
What about all the depressing rain? :)
7
Some of don't find rain depressing. We don't have to shovel it.
3
Vancouver is my home town, and there is nowhere else I would rather live . . . that said, it is also, at its core, a provincial town and not that much different from other cities characterized by steel and glass towers - it's boring and unimaginative. If it wasn't for the natural splendor, I am not sure there would be much to recommend it. The constant Vancouver refrain - that it's a world-class city - says it all for no world-class city ever has to really make such a claim.
11
Beautiful piece. I was a young person priced out of Vancouver a decade ago and I still profoundly miss the Shao Lin Noodle House.
4
I first visited Vancouver in the late 60's and loved it. Robson Street was charming with Murchies and other little shops and restaurants. Granville Island was marvelous with craft shops and cute little houseboats. Stanley park was wonderful with a little zoo and a Japanese garden and restaurant and empty beaches to stroll. The Canadians were incredibly polite and the bars still had ladies entrances. It felt then a little like the fifties. Now there are expensive parking meters everywhere if you can find a space and prompt expensive ticketing if you fail to keep them fed. We haven't gone there except for the airport in a long time.
1
Don't think that as a Canadian you can actually live here. Stratospheric real estate prices are accessible to only the children of Chinese con men billionaires and the Canadian and BC governments are willing enablers.
14
As a visitor to Vancouver about two years ago, I was shocked to see so many homeless people and drug addicts camping out on the streets downtown. It's otherwise a very nice city but what I saw didn't square with my image of Canada's being a cut above the U.S. However on average, I still believe Canada does many things better than we do, i.e., universal healthcare, lower crime rate, etc.
11
"...any homeless people and drug addicts camping out on the streets downtown...." Thank our right wing Lieberal provincial government - in power for the last 15 years.
I moved to Vancouver more than 30 years ago. Landing at YVR after an early April rainstorm, the sun was brilliantly setting under a dark line of clouds. It was an amazing sight! The sunlight reflecting off the rain-soaked pavement was intense. The Lions--two prominent peaks in the North Shore mountains--were bathed in alpenglow. Everything was green, lush, and alive, a stark contrast to the sterile dreariness of the early spring back in Boston. I mused to myself, ‘things grow here’. And they do...still!
7
Nice piece. I love seeing all the comments in here that really nail what it is about this place that can be so good. More interestingly though, is finding that I have a similar list of not-good things as a lot of folks. They're things that I ruminate about, talk with my friends about, but never have figured out if it's just me/us or if there's a much wider consensus on them.
It's been a very difficult city for creative people, though that's starting to change. Overall, creative communities here face significant challenges, tend to function as cliques, and there's much less inter-community activity and support than you would find in other cities. If you don't hook up with the right people at the right time it can be hard to find momentum. If you don't leave, there's a catch: it's easy to become comfortable while producing less. My favourite description, from a friend: "Vancouver is the Graveyard of Ambition."
The clock in Gastown, while pretty, is not steam-powered. There are days when the crowd of photo-snapping tourists is so dense and huge on both sides of the street, and I can barely keep myself from muttering YOU GUYS, IT ISN'T STEAM-POWERED as I try to plough through.
It's been a very difficult city for creative people, though that's starting to change. Overall, creative communities here face significant challenges, tend to function as cliques, and there's much less inter-community activity and support than you would find in other cities. If you don't hook up with the right people at the right time it can be hard to find momentum. If you don't leave, there's a catch: it's easy to become comfortable while producing less. My favourite description, from a friend: "Vancouver is the Graveyard of Ambition."
The clock in Gastown, while pretty, is not steam-powered. There are days when the crowd of photo-snapping tourists is so dense and huge on both sides of the street, and I can barely keep myself from muttering YOU GUYS, IT ISN'T STEAM-POWERED as I try to plough through.
11
Uh, hello? Is anyone checking the content of these comments? They seem to have been written by perhaps two or three people using multiple aliases, All of them writing in a second language.
I was not very impressed with Vancouver when I visited 20 years ago. I live on the coast in Florida with family in California and have therefore lived in or visited many beautiful places in the United States.
I just returned from Banff national Park, in Alberta, and must say the folks there were very welcoming. I am adding this comment to make my submission as surreal as everyone else's. Cheers!
I was not very impressed with Vancouver when I visited 20 years ago. I live on the coast in Florida with family in California and have therefore lived in or visited many beautiful places in the United States.
I just returned from Banff national Park, in Alberta, and must say the folks there were very welcoming. I am adding this comment to make my submission as surreal as everyone else's. Cheers!
6
Hi Scott, what is the problem with the Vancouver described here, I have been to Florida a number of times, I found it always vastly underwhelming, and would like to register a number of complaints with you ?
6
I agree with you. I spent way too much time in South Florida when my parents retired there from Queens and I was always very glad to get back to Cascadia even when it was 40 degrees colder at home. Now that they are gone, so am I--from Florida.
1
Vancouver looks pretty but lots of homeless/drug users; at least when I visited in 2010.
11
Yes, it's unfortunate. Like SF and Seattle, West Coast cities get the vagabonds, runaways, and drifters. They seem to blow to the west and can't go any farther. The milder winters (except this last one) let them live outdoors more easily than farther east. And the drug abuse is out-of-control in Vancouver. The hospitals and emergency workers are overwhelmed with the number of drug overdoses and deaths every week. We, like the US, need more mental health counseling, more help to teens in trouble, and more off-the-street recovery and treatment centers. For visitors - just don't walk alone at night, stay clear of dark doorways. A lot of the homeless are nonviolent and sick, but some are aggressive and when they are high anything can happen.
12
Born in Vancouver in 1945, I have seen a lot of changes. This city used to be a really small outpost that few people had ever heard of. Now it's a mecca for investors from China and Hong Kong and everyone who visits, it seems, decides they want to live here. When I was growing up, there were only two fancy restaurants where people could celebrate anniversaries and birthdays, one at the Georgia Hotel, the other at the Hotel Vancouver. Now, Vancouver is a food-lovers paradise. I miss the old days, but it's kind of exciting to live here now, although housing prices have gone through the roof and the homeless population has increased dramatically. Vancouver, before anyone had heard of it, had a soul -- now it's a "City of Glass," all about money and status. But it's still possible to walk the Sea Wall on a sunny Sunday and look to the North Shore mountains for solace.
25
Hey I was born there, its grown but with not much thought. Its turned into a resort city. Bring lots of money. UBC courses in the science of town planning have been largely ignored with years of provincial and municipal ineptitude. The politicos scared to do the right thing because they might not get elected again.
We have seen an exodus of companies and potential growth evacuate because housing is not available or priced unattainable.You can barely live here and work. Transportation is a joke. Yep, it is a improv work in progress because the future is not forward thought but it is a nice city to visit but park your vehicle outside town and cycle in. Not many places in the world give will give you the opportunity to ski, climb, hike. kayak golf and eat your sushi in the course of one day although you might have to line up to do that now.
We have seen an exodus of companies and potential growth evacuate because housing is not available or priced unattainable.You can barely live here and work. Transportation is a joke. Yep, it is a improv work in progress because the future is not forward thought but it is a nice city to visit but park your vehicle outside town and cycle in. Not many places in the world give will give you the opportunity to ski, climb, hike. kayak golf and eat your sushi in the course of one day although you might have to line up to do that now.
11
I am Asian American and have lived in Vancouver for a handful of years now. I continue to be astonished by the incredible anti-Asian racism that I have experienced here - of both the racial slur/"go back to your country" type as well as the self-righteous "Chinese investors have bought our city" trope exhibited in this very comment section.
Yet these same people don't seem to care that the US continues to be by far the largest source of foreign investment in Canada; or that the Guinness family in Ireland still owns thousands of acres of residential property in West Vancouver; or that many of the empty condos both here and in other beautiful cities around the world are in fact the second homes of wealthy white Canadian citizens; and they certainly don't recall that similar racial and economic anxieties in British Columbia are what led the government to ban Chinese immigration for half of the 20th century, even after Chinese workers built the Canadian Pacific Railway and cleared some of the very land where Vancouver sits today.
These are the reigning myths of Vancouver: that the city is new and that its problems are new too - when in fact we are in ancient, unceded territory settled under a colonial government; and that the most beautiful things about the city, its ecological wilderness and cultural diversity, are natural and effortless - when in fact they are hard fought gifts from generations of oppressed peoples.
Yet these same people don't seem to care that the US continues to be by far the largest source of foreign investment in Canada; or that the Guinness family in Ireland still owns thousands of acres of residential property in West Vancouver; or that many of the empty condos both here and in other beautiful cities around the world are in fact the second homes of wealthy white Canadian citizens; and they certainly don't recall that similar racial and economic anxieties in British Columbia are what led the government to ban Chinese immigration for half of the 20th century, even after Chinese workers built the Canadian Pacific Railway and cleared some of the very land where Vancouver sits today.
These are the reigning myths of Vancouver: that the city is new and that its problems are new too - when in fact we are in ancient, unceded territory settled under a colonial government; and that the most beautiful things about the city, its ecological wilderness and cultural diversity, are natural and effortless - when in fact they are hard fought gifts from generations of oppressed peoples.
79
I think your complaints of anti-Asian racism are overblown. If you have experienced racial slurs and "go home" utterances, this is very unfortunate. My sympathies.
But Vancouver's population has been 40% Asian and South Asian for decades now. The city is as diverse and as harmonious ethnically as any in the world. There is no impediment - none whatsoever - to the social and economic advancement for Asians in Vancouver. Canadian multiculturalism works, and has become a model for the world. Citing antiquated racist laws that were taken off the books 70 years ago is irrelevant and doesn't serve your argument.
You seem to deny the role of Chinese capital in the local real estate market. Sorry, but the source of the speculative cash that has driven the prices of condos and houses into the stratosphere is quite well known by now. Vancouver is merely a subset of the colossal housing bubble in China, the biggest in history, which has resulted in tens of millions of housing units sitting vacant in the hope of capital gain. The ghost cities of China are not mythical, they are real - as are the thousands of foreign-owned houses and condos in Vancouver where no one lives. The wealthy offshore owners don't even bother renting them out, in a city with a severe rental shortage.
Governments have taken far to long to crack down on non-resident housing speculation and houses left vacant. This isn't racism, it's common sense.
But Vancouver's population has been 40% Asian and South Asian for decades now. The city is as diverse and as harmonious ethnically as any in the world. There is no impediment - none whatsoever - to the social and economic advancement for Asians in Vancouver. Canadian multiculturalism works, and has become a model for the world. Citing antiquated racist laws that were taken off the books 70 years ago is irrelevant and doesn't serve your argument.
You seem to deny the role of Chinese capital in the local real estate market. Sorry, but the source of the speculative cash that has driven the prices of condos and houses into the stratosphere is quite well known by now. Vancouver is merely a subset of the colossal housing bubble in China, the biggest in history, which has resulted in tens of millions of housing units sitting vacant in the hope of capital gain. The ghost cities of China are not mythical, they are real - as are the thousands of foreign-owned houses and condos in Vancouver where no one lives. The wealthy offshore owners don't even bother renting them out, in a city with a severe rental shortage.
Governments have taken far to long to crack down on non-resident housing speculation and houses left vacant. This isn't racism, it's common sense.
6
It is not that "Chinese investors have bought our city" but, as regards to NYC, that our politicians allow foreign nationals to launder their ill-gotten gains buying multi-million dollar apartments all cash.
This is true of Chinese Communist Party member, Russian oligarchs, and Arab sheiks. The citizens resent our politicians allowing criminal money to buy our cities, which not only drives up real estate prices, but brings in the riffraff - albeit rich riffraff.
This is true of Chinese Communist Party member, Russian oligarchs, and Arab sheiks. The citizens resent our politicians allowing criminal money to buy our cities, which not only drives up real estate prices, but brings in the riffraff - albeit rich riffraff.
2
It rains too much here. Please don't move here.
10
Vancouver has a beautiful setting indeed. But I find the city itself unattractive compared to say Seattle and SF. They just don't do good architecture in Vancouver, the west end is boring cement, the skyscrapers are rows of identical glass boxes, and the surrounding residential enclaves are largely eyesores, except for New West's Queens Park. I love BC - i now live there - but I'll take California architecture any day.
18
When I moved to Vancouver 25 years ago, a colleague taught me two things about the city. It's an ugly city in a beautiful setting, and it's easy to meet people, but hard to make friends. Both I found to be true. And over the last 25 years, as others have noted, Vancouver has become soulless and hollow. I yearn for the day I no longer have to make trips into town for business. Instead, I moved up the Fraser Valley and am thankful every day.
And yeah---the steam clock is a fake. Just like much of the city.
And yeah---the steam clock is a fake. Just like much of the city.
38
Terminal City is a finite abode that many cannot afford. We rent out someones property while never successfully realizing the reasons for venturing to this far corner of the 2nd largest country. The tragedy is that there is nowhere else to go for those who set their dreams upon the end of Hwy 1 (Mtns, Ocean, USA or back home). From the other side of the Pacific this place was a comedy while our government looked away for too long (or at least until recent Fed & Prov elections were called). People here achieve mutual respect by not pushing too hard (keep the sunglasses on). Routes to personal and professional growth exist, but are limited to a size of lower Manhattan; it gets crowded. Introspection came in 1986; from an economy on the verge of collapse was a real estate bargain for those who bought it, sealed by 2010. We're clean as San Diego, film potential of LA, techy like SanJose, open minded like SanFran or just openly weird as Portland, and don't forget Seattle's corporatism; it's enough to shake Lotusland to the core of its undefinable self, or make for envy. The author of the article fails to further investigate our Mayor, considering the city he's had 10 years to shape to his liking. He titled us a 'world class city', and copied as many other cities as he could to prove it. The still poorest postal code in Canada is a quick walk to Trump Tower but does it matter when you're living or leaving here?
15
I think this article glosses over a lot of the real problems Vancouver faces, both culturally and economically.
I've lived in Vancouver for six years now, having lived on both the west and east coast of the US as well as a year and a half in Germany. Vancouver is least friendly place I've ever lived. I don't mean polite--there is an excess of politeness here (including an inevitable "Canadian Stand-off" in public each week or so). The politeness is shallow, and people don't have much interest for outsiders or being truly friendly.
It is hard to make friends and it is hard to afford to live. Vancouver has become so expensive (not just buying, even renting) that crowds will show up for open house rentals. I was recently kicked out of my condo because the owners decided to sell (couldn't turn down the prices offered) and every place I looked at had a crowd. I don't mean 3 or 5 people looking, I mean 20+. Since 2011 I've moved three times, each time paying more and getting a place that is smaller and/or older. And not by choice.
Finally, the city has a heavy Asian influence and it affects the food scene. I truly believe that most restaurants have to appeal at least somewhat to Asian tastes or charge high prices to succeed, and that is why there is no "street food" scene here. Any non-Asian ethnic food has to be expensive and somewhat watered-down to succeed. The mentioned taco place is $12 a plate (for tiny tacos) and borderline offensive to an ex-Angelino.
I've lived in Vancouver for six years now, having lived on both the west and east coast of the US as well as a year and a half in Germany. Vancouver is least friendly place I've ever lived. I don't mean polite--there is an excess of politeness here (including an inevitable "Canadian Stand-off" in public each week or so). The politeness is shallow, and people don't have much interest for outsiders or being truly friendly.
It is hard to make friends and it is hard to afford to live. Vancouver has become so expensive (not just buying, even renting) that crowds will show up for open house rentals. I was recently kicked out of my condo because the owners decided to sell (couldn't turn down the prices offered) and every place I looked at had a crowd. I don't mean 3 or 5 people looking, I mean 20+. Since 2011 I've moved three times, each time paying more and getting a place that is smaller and/or older. And not by choice.
Finally, the city has a heavy Asian influence and it affects the food scene. I truly believe that most restaurants have to appeal at least somewhat to Asian tastes or charge high prices to succeed, and that is why there is no "street food" scene here. Any non-Asian ethnic food has to be expensive and somewhat watered-down to succeed. The mentioned taco place is $12 a plate (for tiny tacos) and borderline offensive to an ex-Angelino.
66
There are a lot of food trucks that serve a range of foods. They are inspected and as far as I know they are safe food options. The big challenge is finding any spot to sit outdoors and eat - it's been a very rainy season (hence our current location out of the northwest.)
1
No street food? You've clearly not prowled around exploring the food trucks or the Night Markets (not downtown, but in the near suburbs.) Yes, we have a heavy Asian influence on our food and culture. Why is this a problem? We don't want the massive consumerism of the uber-rich, I agree. but at least we are articulating our concerns.
i agree it is expensive and smug in the prevailing assumptions of youth. But the difference between the Vancouver I lived in in the 70's as a uni student (fresh from Montreal and Europe) and now is profound. Then it was WASP front-face, stultifying, with a Chinese community clearly separated. Now it is highly multicultural and dynamic. We have terrible growing pains - and these form the constant bases of discussion among the citizenry, and that's a good thing, because complacency is the worst possible approach to these problems. I have been living here now almost 30 years. It is a work in progress as this writer so eloquently describes. But it is in progress. And that's essentially promising.
i agree it is expensive and smug in the prevailing assumptions of youth. But the difference between the Vancouver I lived in in the 70's as a uni student (fresh from Montreal and Europe) and now is profound. Then it was WASP front-face, stultifying, with a Chinese community clearly separated. Now it is highly multicultural and dynamic. We have terrible growing pains - and these form the constant bases of discussion among the citizenry, and that's a good thing, because complacency is the worst possible approach to these problems. I have been living here now almost 30 years. It is a work in progress as this writer so eloquently describes. But it is in progress. And that's essentially promising.
6
Hello J McT, yes Vancouver is amazingly unfriendly as a whole, who knows why.
But thanks do an awful right-wing (and fraudulently named Liberal Party} provincial government who sat on their hands as the real estate market jumped completely into outer space.
Yet , still people want to come here. I guess its not that surprising if you have ever been to Edmonton or Winnipeg and the points in-between.
As for the prices of food, yes when rents are bordering on insane we are going to pay more to eat out, thats just the way things work.
But thanks do an awful right-wing (and fraudulently named Liberal Party} provincial government who sat on their hands as the real estate market jumped completely into outer space.
Yet , still people want to come here. I guess its not that surprising if you have ever been to Edmonton or Winnipeg and the points in-between.
As for the prices of food, yes when rents are bordering on insane we are going to pay more to eat out, thats just the way things work.
3
Vancouver can be beautiful, but the problems of the East side are understated. Although Gastown and Crosstown are some of the trendiest neighborhoods, it is disgusting what goes on down there. Walking across Hastings Street feels like you are in a Zombie movie. People regularly urinate in public. Vancouverites will claim it is changing, but I've been hearing that for well over a decade. Still, a fine place to pass the short summer.
38
The first time I went to Vancouver was in 1964. I remember my grandmother shielding my eyes from some bum peeing in the crosswalk next to us. plus ça change... Still a beautiful city.
6
All of this sanctimonious finger-wagging about Vancouver's troubled neighbourhoods is a bit much. The proximity of these neighbourhoods to heavily touristed enclaves is the only reason it gets the level of attention from visitors that these comments serve to illustrate. The areas are no more dangerous or offensive to the eye than those that exist in many cities, particularly port cities, in North America and the rest of the world.
The most marginalized citizens of Vancouver have been living in this very small geographic area for generations. It's not their fault, nor should it be an indictment of the city as a whole, that they live in one of the most expensive and touristed cities in the world, within a stones throw of cruise ship terminals and cobbled streets lined with high-end furniture boutiques.
The concentration of troubled human beings and those who prey on them into such a tiny area (it's a few square blocks) also serves to exaggerate the visual effect on visitors. This is not a Vancouver problem - drastic inequality, mental illness, drug addiction and homelessness are baked into urban environments everywhere. Not every city has the geographic and historical conditions to tuck it all away from the houseguests.
The most marginalized citizens of Vancouver have been living in this very small geographic area for generations. It's not their fault, nor should it be an indictment of the city as a whole, that they live in one of the most expensive and touristed cities in the world, within a stones throw of cruise ship terminals and cobbled streets lined with high-end furniture boutiques.
The concentration of troubled human beings and those who prey on them into such a tiny area (it's a few square blocks) also serves to exaggerate the visual effect on visitors. This is not a Vancouver problem - drastic inequality, mental illness, drug addiction and homelessness are baked into urban environments everywhere. Not every city has the geographic and historical conditions to tuck it all away from the houseguests.
4
I recently overheard two older American ladies on a bus in Vancouver. One turned to the other and said: When I die and go to heaven it will be like Vancouver.
The story covers many important themes but misses so much about what makes this city special: a rich variety of culture, food to die for at low prices, and living in BC, where the population owns all the province's resources and where my family gets great health care.
The story covers many important themes but misses so much about what makes this city special: a rich variety of culture, food to die for at low prices, and living in BC, where the population owns all the province's resources and where my family gets great health care.
12
The "big island" of Vancouver is a destinational intersection for dreamers and dream making. The visitor is seduced by the beauty. Beguiled into a state of wondering what is possible. Place making is for the bold. Fortune does not guarantee collective success. Potential is always a work-in-progress while possibility requires passionate actions.
7
Back in the '90s I did a master's degree in physics at UBC. Once graduated, I spent about half a year trying to find a job at a high-tech company. The first offer I got was from California. Ever since I left I've been priced out of Vancouver real estate, and that is saying something for someone living in the SF Bay Area. Not that it's impossible to get a job in a technical field and buy a house in the Vancouver area, but the economic gradients push you away.
15
Vancouver has many interesting features and natural beauty. But I found a kind of bleakness there that I couldn't put my finger on. The horrible overpowering skyscrapers seem to ruin something, and the Hong Kong money is obvious. A lot of Asian influence, so if you aren't taken with Asian culture, well-- There are neighborhoods that seem sad and empty. And I don't mean poor or run-down, just "not there."
The food can be fabulous, but many aspects people seem to find appealing are generic to any city with some money--trendy, sleek, "innovative," whatever. Not a lot of art. What's good is hugely expensive of course--great restaurants overlooking enormous yachts in the harbor. A hollow feeling. A few small neighborhoods that are interesting and "real." Granville Island is Disneyland.
Once you get north of the city, it's even bleaker. Gorgeous land, but forbidding in a way. Squamish is a dreary place with no charm whatsoever. And Whistler, seemingly plopped down for the skiers--generic, manicured, pricey, rather unfriendly.
The food can be fabulous, but many aspects people seem to find appealing are generic to any city with some money--trendy, sleek, "innovative," whatever. Not a lot of art. What's good is hugely expensive of course--great restaurants overlooking enormous yachts in the harbor. A hollow feeling. A few small neighborhoods that are interesting and "real." Granville Island is Disneyland.
Once you get north of the city, it's even bleaker. Gorgeous land, but forbidding in a way. Squamish is a dreary place with no charm whatsoever. And Whistler, seemingly plopped down for the skiers--generic, manicured, pricey, rather unfriendly.
64
As a transplanted Vancouverite (from Toronto),but lived 5 years in the States and 2 in France, I completely understand your point of view. When I go to Seattle, there is a sense of it being very comfortable and human. Sort of like a well-worn comfortable and good-looking pair of shoes. Vancouver, is not a real comfortable place.
25
This is very accurate. I'm a New Englander who's lived here in Vancouver for eleven years. That bleakness, along with an insane real estate market, are what make me want to leave—but I've become so attached to what I do like about living here, I'd be afraid to leave for good.
LorneB, I feel the same about Seattle! I chalk it up to Vancouverites lacking a kind of relaxed openness, even friendliness, that is more characteristically American. People here are polite, no doubt, but cliquey and comparatively terrified of casual/honest interaction with strangers.
LorneB, I feel the same about Seattle! I chalk it up to Vancouverites lacking a kind of relaxed openness, even friendliness, that is more characteristically American. People here are polite, no doubt, but cliquey and comparatively terrified of casual/honest interaction with strangers.
17
I would suggest "hollow" rather than bleak. Vancouver looks great on the outside, it just doesn't have much past that. Or much soul.
45
Vancouver is a city defined by its natural beauty surrounded by mountains and the ocean. Like an adolescent searching for a vision and identity, our town is experiencing growing pains and beneath the appearance of diversity there is also uncertainty, inequity and racial intolerance. A nice tourist destination to be sure, but unless Vancouver residents work hard to solve serious challenges with a plan for its unaffordable housing, escalating opioid crisis, and preventable deaths from lack of access to health care, this city like its Mayor seems hollow searching for an identity and soul.
13
Racial intolerance? Please provide specific details. I have lived in Vancouver my whole life and can count on one hand when this might have been an issue.
11
A fair amount of racism against native Americans, or First Peoples, remains in Canada. How could you not have noticed?
13
Nothing compared to the attitudes in most of USA about a Native Americans.
1
Sailing into Vancouver at night the city is lit up like some beautiful Oz. Following the navigation lights into False Creek and anchoring in the bay there is a feeling of visiting another planet. In the morning rowing my dinghy to the dock in front of the Granville Island market for coffee and muffins it is hard not to pinch one's self it is all so dream like. With the morning light comes Dragon Boaters, kayakers, paddle boarders, dinghy sailors, the general hustle and bustle of pleasure boaters and little ferry boats. The setting is stunning and fresh. As prices in Vancouver for housing become insane and the traffic now snarls at every turn it is nice to just fill the boat with exotic treats, wines and goodies from the world class market before heading out to sea again after a day or two and back to Vancouver Island where the pace is less frenetic and the costs less stratospheric.Vancouver is a wonderful city to visit but it is just like any other big city tied to the almighty buck it is all about money and I'd rather be sailing than rat racing any day.
21
@Tony: Well, aren't you special. You seem to denigrate the "all about money" and "the almighty buck" culture, while at the same time flaunting your own supposed wealth through 'sailing, exotic treats and wine and goodies', again oh so special. A little less arrogance and self-satisfaction could go a long way...perhaps you sail alone? And perhaps you avoided the 'rat racing' through simple inheritance, such a splendid way to avoid learning anything of life.
I also grew up in Vancouver but left in 2012 to start my adult life in the much less lovely Toronto. Those that lament the passing of old Vancouver forget that it was a cultural and economic backwater whose main industries were fishing and logging. Remember clear-cutting and over-fishing? Most people were poor. And everyone was a bit provincial (my guess is that thewriterstuff left for NYC for that very reason). And to be honest, a bit racist. It's showing that the commentators here are mostly from the poshest parts of Greater Vancouver or had the education/money to move to NYC or SF or Laguna Beach. Places like E Van, Surrey, N Delta were terrible (I know, my childhood years in the 90s were in Surrey). I bet these commentators still think Surrey is full of white trash, not a multi-cultural and vibrant city that it is today.
The reality is that Greater Vancouver became a real city mainly due to foreign contributions. Not just Chinese but also Koreans, Sikh Indians, Filipinos and the many other cultures that thrive in Vancouver. Without their contributions to regional coffers since immigration opened in the 90s, I doubt that the province could develop the film industry, the tourism industry or the import/export business that is the bulk of what GVRD does now (all of which ramped up in the 90s onwards). Yes, real estate is insane but it is in a lot of places, mostly less nice than Vancouver (like way uglier Toronto where I live now).
The reality is that Greater Vancouver became a real city mainly due to foreign contributions. Not just Chinese but also Koreans, Sikh Indians, Filipinos and the many other cultures that thrive in Vancouver. Without their contributions to regional coffers since immigration opened in the 90s, I doubt that the province could develop the film industry, the tourism industry or the import/export business that is the bulk of what GVRD does now (all of which ramped up in the 90s onwards). Yes, real estate is insane but it is in a lot of places, mostly less nice than Vancouver (like way uglier Toronto where I live now).
59
We get it - you think Toronto is ugly.
Vancouver is lucky to have Grouse Mountain.
Vancouver is lucky to have Grouse Mountain.
1
Toronto is not way uglier. It's a city of ravines and unique neighbourhoods. We have beaches, giant parks and amazing entertainment. We have the largest streetcar system in North America along with an actual subway. Toronto certainly has sprawl but so do all large cities. Vancouver is blessed with mountains. But nature is rich here as well.
2
all the worlds great cities seem unique and thrilling at first glance, but underneath lies a dull uniformity of urban modernism, of familiar gallery districts, cloyingly hip eateries, the usual array of bike shops, boutiques, design shops, all peddling a prefab version of happiness and attainment. Some of these great cities have water and mountains to see from your latte shops, some have vast bays or rivers nearby with their default parks and stroller paths. What they increasingly lack is the identity that existed before all the charming, hip, sophisticated, ultimately boring people showed up from around the world to pollinate the city with the same vibe you get in every other place.
136
Spot on Rob. The same is true of both Seattle and Portland. "Portlandia" is a thing of the past. The "new urbanism" is taking hold with increased gentrification and displacement and a new sense of "any city, anywhere". Very sad that development interests and foreign investments have eroded the culture, diversity and vibrancy of our cities.
34
They always do because we let them.
10
As a Seattle resident of 30+ years with a personal history in western Canada going back to the 70's, Rob and AmieE's sentiments ring true. The regional (and middle-class) uniqueness that produced a local culture about which you could say "only in Vancouver...Seattle" etc has been bulldozed away for a nouveau sophistication that has a certain congested uniformity of consumerism and unaffordability. "Yuppie Destruction" is my shorthand term, lately on the steroids of investment influx, now creeping up and down the entire west coast. Same for the Long Beach peninsula and Alberta's Bow Valley. Totally ruined by over-development.
That said, the greater Vancouver area has the best parks, a superior integrated public transport that Seattle can only dream of, and its country's national spirit of tolerance and friendliness, the perfect Trump anodyne. To fully appreciate BC, you must see the First Nations' art housed at UBC's amazing museum of Anthropology; unique in the world. The BC I know and love is captured well in the atmospheric evocation of its natural world and history that Jon Vaillant masterfully weaves around the central tale of his book, "The Golden Spruce".
That said, the greater Vancouver area has the best parks, a superior integrated public transport that Seattle can only dream of, and its country's national spirit of tolerance and friendliness, the perfect Trump anodyne. To fully appreciate BC, you must see the First Nations' art housed at UBC's amazing museum of Anthropology; unique in the world. The BC I know and love is captured well in the atmospheric evocation of its natural world and history that Jon Vaillant masterfully weaves around the central tale of his book, "The Golden Spruce".
8
I first saw Vancouver at age 17 and have returned several times since. It is unique, beautiful and, luckily, very Canadian. I love the difficult cultures, the views, Stanley Park and, above all the people. It is a bit like some other cities, but, in the end, it is very, very distinctive.
Some 33 years ago, my wife and I were walking near the Hotel Vancouver, arm in arm when she was accosted by a militant lesbian who yelled "You don't need a man to be satisfied". My NYC born love of my live, yelled back "If so, I also don't need you!" The woman walked on shaking her head.
In 2017, I am afraid that you have to be Swiss, or Chinese, to afford to comfortably live there and that is a shame. Another great Canadian city, Toronto, has the same problem. Still, I want to go back, preferably in the summer with all its glory. Great article, Mr. Taylor and you're lucky, eh?
Some 33 years ago, my wife and I were walking near the Hotel Vancouver, arm in arm when she was accosted by a militant lesbian who yelled "You don't need a man to be satisfied". My NYC born love of my live, yelled back "If so, I also don't need you!" The woman walked on shaking her head.
In 2017, I am afraid that you have to be Swiss, or Chinese, to afford to comfortably live there and that is a shame. Another great Canadian city, Toronto, has the same problem. Still, I want to go back, preferably in the summer with all its glory. Great article, Mr. Taylor and you're lucky, eh?
26
There was a (slightly irritating) boosterish quality to this piece.
30
I was trying to comment myself........but Luder hit the nail on the head.......JMW Vancouver
Please stop promulgating the steam clock myth. Although steam is involved, weighted balls and electric motors deserve more credit! I gave up calling the Gastown BIA every time I noticed the time was off, even after the clock was removed then replaced after being serviced for many months.
http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/steam-clock-gastown-vancouver
As for the rest of the article, as a Vancouverite for more than a third of its history, as much as I love the fresh air and scenery, I am deeply disappointed by a collective government unwillingness to work together to properly tax what I call Chinese laundry, creating the worst of all worlds for many Vancouverites: drastic housing inflation caused in no small part by astronaut Chinese businessmen buying houses for cash, installing their spouse or student children as the owner and failing to declare their worlwide income to Canadian tax authorities.
Worse, they claim to be Canadian residents to avoid paying capital gains tax on the sale of their house. The cherry on top is that these housewives and students are receiving low income tax rebates.
We are truly suckers.
Light on the horizon: a notary has been ordered to pay $600,000 capital gains tax on a house sale, so perhaps this tax evasion charade will grind to a halt as the so-called professionals involved will take notice.
http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/steam-clock-gastown-vancouver
As for the rest of the article, as a Vancouverite for more than a third of its history, as much as I love the fresh air and scenery, I am deeply disappointed by a collective government unwillingness to work together to properly tax what I call Chinese laundry, creating the worst of all worlds for many Vancouverites: drastic housing inflation caused in no small part by astronaut Chinese businessmen buying houses for cash, installing their spouse or student children as the owner and failing to declare their worlwide income to Canadian tax authorities.
Worse, they claim to be Canadian residents to avoid paying capital gains tax on the sale of their house. The cherry on top is that these housewives and students are receiving low income tax rebates.
We are truly suckers.
Light on the horizon: a notary has been ordered to pay $600,000 capital gains tax on a house sale, so perhaps this tax evasion charade will grind to a halt as the so-called professionals involved will take notice.
71
I have no idea where else I could live in North America--where else are there these trees and ocean and mountains, snow and beach. Salmon live in the city. 16 bald eagle nests in the area. North and West Vancouver must be the only urban areas that have need for avalanche forecasts.
That said, it rains like crazy from November until now and it is as boring as all get out. The thing I least understand about this place: for a city in such a gorgeous setting, vast tracts of the town are ugly as can be: the ugliest houses and duplexes line block after block after block in the eastern and southern reaches of Vancouver proper.
Still, where the heck else can you live in North America where you can take a bus to a hike and then go to the beach and have a very nice dinner afterwards?
That said, it rains like crazy from November until now and it is as boring as all get out. The thing I least understand about this place: for a city in such a gorgeous setting, vast tracts of the town are ugly as can be: the ugliest houses and duplexes line block after block after block in the eastern and southern reaches of Vancouver proper.
Still, where the heck else can you live in North America where you can take a bus to a hike and then go to the beach and have a very nice dinner afterwards?
12
Seattle
6
To Chris: "Where else can you go in North America where you can take a bus to a hike...etc" The answer is San Francisco the city that stole my heart 37 years ago. Nice article even if a bit hyperbolic. I now live in the San Juans and you've inspired me to visit our Northern neighbor for a weekend hit of city life. Thanks :).
4
Try any urbanized area of Puget Sound in Washington state - just over your border - and you will have almost everything you have described. I say almost only because avalanches are usually confined to the Cascade Mountains; the urbanized areas get mudslides. Fortunately, we do not have block after block after block of mile high unsightly residential skyscrapers built for investors as does Vancouver. My husband and I drive up to BC from time to time - Vancouver, Victoria, the Okanagan Valley. We enjoy them all.
6
A son of mine earned his degree at UBC, and it is through him my husband I got to know and love the city. Alas, because it is so over-th- top expensive to live in Vancouver, the city has lost it's charm. It is just another over-gentrified scene, even with cougars running around.
30
Vancouver is a beautiful city that shares many similarities with the Washington city 150 miles south, Seattle. Both are marine and port cities on the saltwater, with nearby mountains and nature, temperate rain forest turned to concrete, steel and glass.
Greenpeace and the movement to save whales and the earth were born in Vancouver. Vancouver's citizens. though, have always been to the left of the Canadian government, which has allowed the clear-cutting of Vancouver Island and British Columbia, the destruction of the Tar Sands forest and scraping away of topsoil for oil, the building of pipelines, mining that poisons the streams and rivers, etc. Some of Vancouver's beauty is an illusion built on the wholesale destruction of nature.
Canadian immigration policy allowed people with brought $800,000 with them untrammeled entry into the country and these immigrants, mostly Asian, have driven up real estate prices in Vancouver to astronomical levels, far beyond what the native can afford. Houses and mansions sit empty, mere investment properties for those with too much. Vancouver has now passed a tax on foreign buyers, but the remedy is too late.
Still, Vancouver is a beautiful and outstanding city to visit. And Canadians are so pleasant and civilized, their culture is not one of gun nuts, racism and idiocracy.
Greenpeace and the movement to save whales and the earth were born in Vancouver. Vancouver's citizens. though, have always been to the left of the Canadian government, which has allowed the clear-cutting of Vancouver Island and British Columbia, the destruction of the Tar Sands forest and scraping away of topsoil for oil, the building of pipelines, mining that poisons the streams and rivers, etc. Some of Vancouver's beauty is an illusion built on the wholesale destruction of nature.
Canadian immigration policy allowed people with brought $800,000 with them untrammeled entry into the country and these immigrants, mostly Asian, have driven up real estate prices in Vancouver to astronomical levels, far beyond what the native can afford. Houses and mansions sit empty, mere investment properties for those with too much. Vancouver has now passed a tax on foreign buyers, but the remedy is too late.
Still, Vancouver is a beautiful and outstanding city to visit. And Canadians are so pleasant and civilized, their culture is not one of gun nuts, racism and idiocracy.
83
Vancouver is the largest clear-cut in BC. W/O natural gas heating our 1000's of restaurants and Peace River projects brought by WAC Bennet our city would be in total darkness starving on foraged blackberries. Van is not a historic left centric city (Rez-schools, Japanese interment, Sihk Kamatariunga ship turned back, anti Chinese riots of 1908, gastown riot of 1970..
No city is perfect, and perfection only seeks to sell itself
No city is perfect, and perfection only seeks to sell itself
3
Amazing writing. I visited Vancouver four times and Victoria one time. Two times, I stayed and explored Vancouver more than 2 weeks. Lovely, I had dinners at the restaurants that author mentioned. I walking around the Gastown and other downtown streets, driving in West Vancouver and North Vancouver, and exploring the Stanley Park, Suspension Bridge Park, etc. Although I complained it is still a bit chilly even in August, I am addicted to its beautiful natural scene and chic urban life. Always want to go back!
15
Be aware that you have to love the rain to live in Vancouver.
The sun rarely shines and when it does it is not for extended periods of time.
The sun rarely shines and when it does it is not for extended periods of time.
21
That is not true but please spread that myth so that this wonderful city doesn't get more crowded than it already is.
46
Benee: Not true about the rain. I am a Vancouver-born Canadian living in Montreal. After graduating from UBC I was offered a job with the federal public service in Ottawa, where I would have frequent and vigorous arguments with a Newfoundland colleague about which was the superior province, BC or Newfoundland. In regard to Vancouver I would allude to its unsurpassed physical setting. its gardens and temperate climate, and its sunny summer days. To prove my point about the city's sunny days, I consulted Environment Canada for statistics and was told that with the exception of the month of June, Vancouver has more hours of sunshine in the months of April, May, July, August and September than eastern Canadian cities. I had similar arguments a few years later with an Ottawan so again consulted Environment Canada to be told the same statistics: Vancouver has more hours of sunshine in the spring and summer than Toronto, Ottawa and Montreal. I knew this from experience, finding eastern Canadian summers to be unreliable as to sunshine, but it's always an advantage to back up one's arguments with facts from reliable sources, in this instance, Environment Canada. So things are not always as they appear to be. Yes, it rains in Vancouver in the fall and winter, but all the year round, no.
15
Summer--drizzly and muggy.
2
We are in Vancouver 2-3x a year on business and always stay a few minutes from Stanley Park. The park is a treasure and great backdrop for a city that is the continual juxtaposition of the unexpected.
9
I'm going to Vancouver in early June, would like to hear recommendations for nice hotels near Stanley Park from people who actually stayed there.
Van? Oh, it's much more.
The dominant ethnic source is no longer the UK. It's Asia, with Richmond malls very near Van advertising only in Mandarin or Cantonese. Yet the shops fill with people of every sort. It's multicultural. Inter-racial dating is normal, and babies are gorgeous. I waited 10 minutes at a Starbucks near the Bank of Hong Kong one afternoon and more than a hundred women passed before I saw a white face. Saris, dashikis, pants: Whitman's New York, singing.
There are no freeway allowed in the city, Ahhhhh. Sea-boats cross to Granville Island (really a tiny peninsula in the city) and to North Van, where mountains grow and the wealthy and the ski-loving are everywhere. At the huge UBC campus where the Pacific meets the city, the Anthropological Museum is filled with treasures - one visit won't do.
And restaurants advertise organic, and responsibly-fished dishes. Vietnamese, Malayan, Indonesian, Italian, Portugese, French, African, Spanish, Austrian, Asian -- whatever you wish is near wherever you are. Wish more than that? Go to Wreck Beach, No. America's only nude beach next to an urban area - and filled in the warm months. Go nude or stay away. Canada is like that.
Van's a port - homeless and druggies haunt its fringes. But the edges of the waterways are beyond belief, with mansions and high rises, and every hill is home to Hollywood-sized estates. Lamborghinis with 18 year-olds driving cruise Robson St. like giant toys on parade. Enjoy. It's Tomorrow Land.
The dominant ethnic source is no longer the UK. It's Asia, with Richmond malls very near Van advertising only in Mandarin or Cantonese. Yet the shops fill with people of every sort. It's multicultural. Inter-racial dating is normal, and babies are gorgeous. I waited 10 minutes at a Starbucks near the Bank of Hong Kong one afternoon and more than a hundred women passed before I saw a white face. Saris, dashikis, pants: Whitman's New York, singing.
There are no freeway allowed in the city, Ahhhhh. Sea-boats cross to Granville Island (really a tiny peninsula in the city) and to North Van, where mountains grow and the wealthy and the ski-loving are everywhere. At the huge UBC campus where the Pacific meets the city, the Anthropological Museum is filled with treasures - one visit won't do.
And restaurants advertise organic, and responsibly-fished dishes. Vietnamese, Malayan, Indonesian, Italian, Portugese, French, African, Spanish, Austrian, Asian -- whatever you wish is near wherever you are. Wish more than that? Go to Wreck Beach, No. America's only nude beach next to an urban area - and filled in the warm months. Go nude or stay away. Canada is like that.
Van's a port - homeless and druggies haunt its fringes. But the edges of the waterways are beyond belief, with mansions and high rises, and every hill is home to Hollywood-sized estates. Lamborghinis with 18 year-olds driving cruise Robson St. like giant toys on parade. Enjoy. It's Tomorrow Land.
47
Beautiful article! Growing up in Portland, we visited Victoria and Vancouver most summers, arriving on ferries from Port Angeles in Washington State. I just returned from a trip to Vancouver and Whistler with my children in tow for their first trip across the border. Many things were still the same, especially the stunning scenic beauty and the polite, friendly and quiet Canadians. Vancouver and Whistler are nirvana for introverts--bustling with people and scenery and endlessly walkable, but never too loud or overwhelming. The biggest change from my childhood was needing passports to enter the country. As a child in the PacNW, we did not need passports to enter Canada! My children loved Canada and asked if we could live there. I'm thankful Canada holds a magical place in their hearts and minds like it did for me as a child.
35
It's the smuggest place in the world. Much of the built environment is stupendously ugly. Residents whose property values were pushed into the stratosphere through no skill of their own believe they're well-off because they're clever and deserving. Comparisons with the Castro in San Francisco are ridiculous when gays in the West End still feel they have to refrain from any public displays of affection lest they get jumped by rednecks. "Troubling adolescent quality," I grant you. The rest is PR.
93
I have lived in the West End for 40 years and regularly see men publicly displaying affection to each other. You need to pay another visit to Vancouver -- I'll happily show you around.
17
I am not going to comment about the West End but having lived in and around Vancouver I found like others it was smug and soulless.
Perhaps the biggest myth is how beautiful it is. Take away the natural beauty including Stanley Park and much of the architecture is an eyesore. Perhaps one of the ugliest downtowns I can think of (other than maybe Caracas - another spectacular location). The East End of Vancouver continues to be a disgrace with its First Nations homeless problem, drug use, etc.
The 'city' is in fact all about the outdoors and the lifestyle. Those things (and BC weed) are what make Vancouver truly world class.
Sadly the recent property boom now has priced out regular folks and made it feel more like Hong Kong with its endless food and tasteless shopping malls.
Perhaps the biggest myth is how beautiful it is. Take away the natural beauty including Stanley Park and much of the architecture is an eyesore. Perhaps one of the ugliest downtowns I can think of (other than maybe Caracas - another spectacular location). The East End of Vancouver continues to be a disgrace with its First Nations homeless problem, drug use, etc.
The 'city' is in fact all about the outdoors and the lifestyle. Those things (and BC weed) are what make Vancouver truly world class.
Sadly the recent property boom now has priced out regular folks and made it feel more like Hong Kong with its endless food and tasteless shopping malls.
9
"gays in the West End still feel they have to refrain from any public displays of affection lest they get jumped by rednecks"? Have you been to Vancouver? It sure doesn't seem like it...
2
I first visited Vancouver in 1983 and was amazed that while it was-20 back in Ontario it was green and 45 degrees at Christmas. Years later, after living in Japan for a few years, I came to Vancouver on a holiday and decided to move my family here. Vancouver is unique... There is no other city like it in the world, that's why no one can agree on what city it most resembles. In movies it plays many different cities but never itself. It's both beguiling and frustrating at the same time. It's definitely a state of mind, not at all like bigger Toronto, the city it loves to hate. It really is a collection of neighbourhoods rather than a unified city. If you like nature and being able to walk outdoors and enjoy beautiful views all year long, it's without equal and citizens love years longer than elsewhere in Canada as a result. Just don't expect to buy a home unless you're a millionaire... I'm not joking. It's the condo capital of North America but it's also an evolving city with a great future... The youngest major city in North America. Oh, and the food is fabulous and if you go casual, the best value in North America. Everything contrasts here, rich and poor, expensive and cheap, beautiful and shoddy. It's all here. Enjoy the diversity... Were still under construction.
38
The physical setting of the city is majestic, unsurpassed even by Rio and Hong Kong, yet it has a raga-tag look about it as if no building was erected with the intention it would last long. I was born and raised there and love to visit in the summer, but I could never live in Vancouver again. British Columbians and Vancouverites are extremely hospitable and will assure you are well fed and lodged, but they are not least bit interested in you, in what you do and think or where you come from. They simply are not! Thus, I prefer to live in eastern Canada, which is more cosmopolitan and sophisticated in thought and culture. Of course, these are my subjective impressions of the place, a place that when I was young couldn't imagine myself ever leaving.
20
You are right Vancouver is very parochial, at least compared to NYC, London, even Toronto!
However, Rio de Janeiro beats it out of sight for location. Well okay, Vancouver is pretty close.
However, Rio de Janeiro beats it out of sight for location. Well okay, Vancouver is pretty close.
6
This lovely and fair article makes Vancouver seem a bit like an unreal place. The photos of tourist attractions reinforce that image. But it is a real place!!!
No, it's not a fast-paced city like New York, a competitive magnet for the best in every field.
Yes, most art, music and theatre venues feature local artists. That means art happens through intense community-building volunteerism.
Yes, our mild weather attracts a large homeless population. Religious communities work across faith traditions to host meals and run shelters.
Yes, there is lots of cheap restaurant food and nature is very close. In the summer, neighbourhoods, community organizations and ad-hoc event organizing groups sponsor festivals every weekend. There's a lot for teens to do besides sit around drinking.
Yes, it's geographically tiny. That makes it possible for people to walk, cycle, and ride our transit system -- where drivers actually help enforce the custom of priority seating for the elderly and disabled, and allow people without money to ride for free.
Paradise? No. It is expensive to buy a home and challenging to find a good rental. Winter is damp and dreary (though very green!) First Nations and many new immigrants scramble for a safe place in the economy.
But is it a good place to live and work and raise children? It can be. And is it a good place to visit? ABSOLUTELY.
No, it's not a fast-paced city like New York, a competitive magnet for the best in every field.
Yes, most art, music and theatre venues feature local artists. That means art happens through intense community-building volunteerism.
Yes, our mild weather attracts a large homeless population. Religious communities work across faith traditions to host meals and run shelters.
Yes, there is lots of cheap restaurant food and nature is very close. In the summer, neighbourhoods, community organizations and ad-hoc event organizing groups sponsor festivals every weekend. There's a lot for teens to do besides sit around drinking.
Yes, it's geographically tiny. That makes it possible for people to walk, cycle, and ride our transit system -- where drivers actually help enforce the custom of priority seating for the elderly and disabled, and allow people without money to ride for free.
Paradise? No. It is expensive to buy a home and challenging to find a good rental. Winter is damp and dreary (though very green!) First Nations and many new immigrants scramble for a safe place in the economy.
But is it a good place to live and work and raise children? It can be. And is it a good place to visit? ABSOLUTELY.
35
I have always been impressed by how strong community theatre is there. Welcoming place for people who want to start performing in theatre or music, or do support work for same.
7
One of the few sane comments I've read on this piece. Seems like most of the commentators either never lived in Vancouver, or ceased living there decades ago (at which time it was a very different, and thoroughly less interesting, city). I've lived in over 20 countries in my life, and expensiveness notwithstanding Vancouver is by far my favourite city in the world. Just see it for yourself.
I know it seems as though the article is "boosting" the city, but it really isn't. If anything, it's displaying false modesty in the interest of balance. Most of these negative comments are based on ignorance and outdated information.
I know it seems as though the article is "boosting" the city, but it really isn't. If anything, it's displaying false modesty in the interest of balance. Most of these negative comments are based on ignorance and outdated information.
2
My wife and I have been to Vancouver two times. The first time (3 years ago) we drove from Seattle to Vancouver. We instantly feel in love with the city and its people. Then two years ago when we were planning a trip to Alaska with some friends, I told them I would do all the planning as long as our cruise ship departed from Vancouver and we spent at least 3 nights in Vancouver before. After two years my friends are still talking about our fantastic trip to Alaska, but even more so how they also loved Vancouver including Stanley Park where we had lunch, Granville Island, Canada Place and other sights. They also loved the restaurants where I made reservations. If you have a chance to visit Vancouver .... GO!
21
EXACTLY...
it's a GREAT place to visit.
But....
You wouldn't want to live there.
it's a GREAT place to visit.
But....
You wouldn't want to live there.
4
I was born and grew up in West Vancouver and spent my formative years in and around greater Vancouver and Whistler.
At the age of 34 I fell in love with an American girl and moved to SAN Francisco. I also lived in Seattle, Sun Valley Idaho and Laguna Beach. All beautiful cities and towns, but none as stunning visually as Vancouver.
I can't go back and live there though. It's too expensive and too overcrowded.
In the 80's and 90's the city grew and changed but it didn't seem as obvious as it is now with all the Asian money that pours in by the Billions every year, and changes any rich Heritage the City might have kept. West Van has expanded all the way to Whistler it seems. The drive up to Whistler in the old days before the Olympics was fun and challenging, one of the reasons Whistler and Blackcomb were so amazing.
Old classic Heritage Homes in areas like Shaunessy, Kerrisdale, Kitsalano, and the Endowment Lands out by UBC have been bought up, torn down and have been modernized. So very sad for those of us that grew up and were awestruck at the size and wealth of those beautiful old homes.
The East Side has always been very sketchy. Homelessness and Drugs have been there for decades and the only thing that's changed is the wealthy developers have encroached on that area and make it smaller and more dense.
Some call it progress. I feel sad every time I visit and see the changes.
At the age of 34 I fell in love with an American girl and moved to SAN Francisco. I also lived in Seattle, Sun Valley Idaho and Laguna Beach. All beautiful cities and towns, but none as stunning visually as Vancouver.
I can't go back and live there though. It's too expensive and too overcrowded.
In the 80's and 90's the city grew and changed but it didn't seem as obvious as it is now with all the Asian money that pours in by the Billions every year, and changes any rich Heritage the City might have kept. West Van has expanded all the way to Whistler it seems. The drive up to Whistler in the old days before the Olympics was fun and challenging, one of the reasons Whistler and Blackcomb were so amazing.
Old classic Heritage Homes in areas like Shaunessy, Kerrisdale, Kitsalano, and the Endowment Lands out by UBC have been bought up, torn down and have been modernized. So very sad for those of us that grew up and were awestruck at the size and wealth of those beautiful old homes.
The East Side has always been very sketchy. Homelessness and Drugs have been there for decades and the only thing that's changed is the wealthy developers have encroached on that area and make it smaller and more dense.
Some call it progress. I feel sad every time I visit and see the changes.
84
Don't feel sad. East Side is typical in every city in the Northern Hemisphere. At least Vancouver is taking care of them. Sure it's scary to drive through the area if you have a toddler in your backseat, no denying that, but at least your mayor didn't make it illegal to sit on the sidewalk with a child on your lap and a sign that asked for help. THE ISSUE IS THE PEOPLE . Vancouverites are so much more laid back than Chicagoans. Just drive through the city and you'll see what I mean. To me the traffic/pedestrian rules were confusing, but it didn't matter because people were patient. I get back to Chicago and the hostility is palpable. The "My- life- is -so -much- more -important -than -yours" driving of Chicago and it's suburbs is just such a downer.
Be proud of Vancouver also because they know how to create affordable housing with their small house "alley" designs and bungalows broken up into very beautiful rental units. Chicago is nowhere near that possibility with their unions and jacked up property taxes. At least Vancouver is addressing healthcare and affordable housing in ways that are realistic. Or maybe that's just Canada.
Be proud of Vancouver also because they know how to create affordable housing with their small house "alley" designs and bungalows broken up into very beautiful rental units. Chicago is nowhere near that possibility with their unions and jacked up property taxes. At least Vancouver is addressing healthcare and affordable housing in ways that are realistic. Or maybe that's just Canada.
1
It is very helpful
It is by far the most scenic city in North America. As a native of Seattle, I have always spent much time in Vancouver. One of the most amazing museums in North America is the Museum of Anthropology at U. British Columbia. The cost of living, thanks to all the Hong Kong, and later the mainland China investors, has skyrocketed. The cost of living is now equal to Toronto and Chicago. The Canadians are wonderful people, and this city is their visual jewel.
112
Say what? Cost of living wayyyyy higher than Chicago and has been much higher than Toronto for a very long time.
1
Vancouver is more scenic than Montreal? I really want to like Vancouver but it leaves me cold.
WAY more expensive than Chicago! But I still wish I could live there.
Fifty years ago, I immigrated to the US for higher studies. Have stayed on ever since with 2, 3 occasional long time absences when I went back home help to adopt American ideas in my family business. I fell in love with America for its higher ethical standards both in civic and work spheres. Now, fifty years later, I see right before my eyes the ol' aura and culture fading. I blame it on the indiscriminate immigration practices of Western countries - USA, Canada, Germany, etc.
I have visited Canada 2-3 times for no more than 2-3 days stay at any one time. For my first and passing impressions, I felt the country was gentler and quieter. Now that I am retired and left alone, after the demise of my wife a year and a half ago, I was thinking of restarting new phase in life, with some foreign travels, partly to ward off the oncoming depession and partly to see if I can enjoy doing that as well as I did in the company of my soul mate. For starters, I was thinking of visiting Vancover. Why Vancouver, because I have always loved Canada in my imagination, and now for the noble and enlightened policies its young leader is pursuing. PM Trudeau is setting a good example of today's leader, though I hope he succeeds and does not overdo his good deeds. I would like to see him succeed, and his country to maintain its distinctive Western character and culture.
But this article and the two comments below have me wondering if Vancover would make a good start, given my present state of mind.
I have visited Canada 2-3 times for no more than 2-3 days stay at any one time. For my first and passing impressions, I felt the country was gentler and quieter. Now that I am retired and left alone, after the demise of my wife a year and a half ago, I was thinking of restarting new phase in life, with some foreign travels, partly to ward off the oncoming depession and partly to see if I can enjoy doing that as well as I did in the company of my soul mate. For starters, I was thinking of visiting Vancover. Why Vancouver, because I have always loved Canada in my imagination, and now for the noble and enlightened policies its young leader is pursuing. PM Trudeau is setting a good example of today's leader, though I hope he succeeds and does not overdo his good deeds. I would like to see him succeed, and his country to maintain its distinctive Western character and culture.
But this article and the two comments below have me wondering if Vancover would make a good start, given my present state of mind.
3
I live in Vancouver and have for 10 years. If immigration makes you, say, "anxious," you won't like our beautiful, diverse city. I hope that's not the subtext of your comment. But if it is, I'm sure Kansas could use tourists.
37
I think you should give us a try. I spent 90% of my lifetime living in the 'burbs before semi retirement brought us into the city. We love it! Safe, friendly, walkable. Yes home ownership is a challenge but there are alternatives. For retired folk not wanting to completely break the bank it is possible to find lower cost options such as co-ops. Not popular like New York which is why the prices are low comparatively. Many retired folk go for this option even knowing that your purchase isn't going to net you huge profits down the road, you can expect to break even or have modest gains but where else could you buy for this kind of cash in Vancouver? As nice as we are, we aren't perfect there will be people who see everything from a negative slant but we ignore them, politely. I thought it was an excellent article and it's a good account of what Vancouver really is like. Try us, you'll like us.
12
The mother of the current prime minister, Trudeau, is native to Vancouver. It was one of the powerful influences on him. The people of Vancouver are warm. When I travel the world, citizens of other nations often tell me they like Canadians best of all foreigners. The openness of the West is expressed for Canada I. Vancouver. And I. Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec, Canadians tell me that the city they most long to live in is Vancouver.
8
Vancouver is a beautiful city, with great people, restaurants and scenic natural attributes. It is very unfortunate that it's economy is built on real estate development and gentrification. When it blows up - it will be an epic display.
47
Beautiful city. Wish we lived closer so we could visit more often.
9
I lived there for ten years and as Gertrude Stein said about Oakland "there is no there, there"..for being a city with apparent money, there is no culture, art scene, history, or patrons of culture. They buy skiis. Its a souless pile of badly designed condos that the city made a land deal on with Lee Ka Shing from Hong Kong. Vancouver is also known as the stock scam capital of North America, competing with Denver and Boca Raton for the honor. This could partially explain the influx of shady money. It can be a nice place to visit as long as its after the rainy season, but there is reason for people killing themselves in the Pacific Mist..its deadly boring..
52
Oh dear bip425 I've been to Sweden and I found to judge the height of culture there you open your refrigerator and see how high the shelf with the yogurt on is compared to everything else. Can I suggest you stop playing your Abba records backwards and go for a nice soothing walk round your nearest Ikea ?
13
I don’t know when you lived here, but you are not describing the Vancouver that is, and has been, my home for the last 16 years. Where do I begin?
Let’s start with some annual events:
Vancouver Writers Fest
Vancouver International Film Fest
“Bard on the Beach” – Shakespeare performed in huge marquees, adjacent to one of our beautiful beaches
Celebration of Light fireworks competition
DOXA Documentary Film Fest
Vancouver International Fringe Fest
Jazz Festival
Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival
The PUSH Festival of experimental and not-easily-classified performance art
TED conference (TED is headquartered here)
The Chutzpah! Festival of international dance, music, theatre, and comedy
Theatre Under The Stars in gorgeous Stanley Park
We have ongoing varied, culturally engaging and sometimes experimental performances at our numerous theatres:
The Vancouver Playhouse
The East Vancouver Cultural Centre “The Cultch”
The Queen Elizabeth Theatre
The Firehall Theatre
The Orpheum
Performance Works
Waterfront Theatre
We have numerous cultural days, in which residents of a particular cultural background put their culture on display, e.g. Greek Day, Philippine Days, Italian Day
We have a dynamic and vibrant Vancouver Art Gallery with multiple ongoing exhibitions and a calendar of events to draw in everyone from kids to seniors…
I invite you to visit again and see for yourself!
Let’s start with some annual events:
Vancouver Writers Fest
Vancouver International Film Fest
“Bard on the Beach” – Shakespeare performed in huge marquees, adjacent to one of our beautiful beaches
Celebration of Light fireworks competition
DOXA Documentary Film Fest
Vancouver International Fringe Fest
Jazz Festival
Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival
The PUSH Festival of experimental and not-easily-classified performance art
TED conference (TED is headquartered here)
The Chutzpah! Festival of international dance, music, theatre, and comedy
Theatre Under The Stars in gorgeous Stanley Park
We have ongoing varied, culturally engaging and sometimes experimental performances at our numerous theatres:
The Vancouver Playhouse
The East Vancouver Cultural Centre “The Cultch”
The Queen Elizabeth Theatre
The Firehall Theatre
The Orpheum
Performance Works
Waterfront Theatre
We have numerous cultural days, in which residents of a particular cultural background put their culture on display, e.g. Greek Day, Philippine Days, Italian Day
We have a dynamic and vibrant Vancouver Art Gallery with multiple ongoing exhibitions and a calendar of events to draw in everyone from kids to seniors…
I invite you to visit again and see for yourself!
24
The Vancouver Stock Exchange closed years ago -- so no longer the "stock scam capital of North America".
5
They won't come there if they cannot afford to live. Only rich expats ruining it for everyone. Which they seem to do everywhere now.
21
I LOVE going to anywhere in Canada to be informed of everything wrong with the United States. Over this past Presidents day weekend that I spent in Vancouver, multiple interactions with the locals quickly turned into diatribes of how shameful we are south of the border for electing Trump. Yeah, I kinda was trying to get away from all that for a couple of days. Guess I need to go somewhere with an identity of its own. Stunningly beautiful setting - thats for certain.
14
Maybe don't tell everyone that you're an American?
23
Sorry to hear that. Must say U.S. politics is still over the top on my Facebook feed. We need to start focusing on local interests.
7
@Robert. I go up to YVR a lot, due to friends and family there. They do go on and on about Trump, but that's because they're impacted greatly by any policy and law in this large country to the south of them. There is a lot of fear on their part and I know they feel better when they can talk to someone who understands.
17
Our family visited Vancouver for 4 days a few years ago. We've also toured the Cali and Oregon coasts plus other West Coast cities including San Fran, Portland and Seattle. My wife and I realized if we'd known about Vancouver 25 years ago we might have moved there.
We've lived in and love the beautiful Mid-Hudson Valley, raising our family and making great friends. We've enjoyed countless miles of hiking, skiing is an hour north, NYC is 1.5 hours away by train and the beach can be had in two. That said, Vancouver stole a place in our hearts.
We've lived in and love the beautiful Mid-Hudson Valley, raising our family and making great friends. We've enjoyed countless miles of hiking, skiing is an hour north, NYC is 1.5 hours away by train and the beach can be had in two. That said, Vancouver stole a place in our hearts.
15
A lovely tale, but the author should have mentioned how the homeless who sleep in one of the downtown Denny's will let you eat your grand slam breakfast at 3:00 am in peace.
16
I've lived here for eleven years and enjoyed every minute of it. I also visited in the 80's and 90's and can confirm the dramatic changes that have taken place. I come from Scotland so no one thought to mention the rain.It rains here a lot.What I've noticed missing from a lot of articles is how much fun it is to walk around Vacouver. If you visit make sure you walk across at least one of the three bridges downtown ,Granville , Cambie, or Burrard.The Iron Workers Memorial is worth doing as well but only go half way then turn around.Take the Sea-bus to North Van. Then get back on right away and get a front row seat to enjoy the view of downtown from the Northshore.Do the seawall on foot or by bike.Walk up Thurlow Street from the Convention center ,across Davie Street,and down to False Creek and then take the little ferry to Granville Island and enjoy the market. If I were to compare Vancouver to any other city I've lived in I'd say Amsterdam and not just because of the door shops. Goodbye Vancouver I'll miss you - I won't miss your drivers who are truly the worse I have ever seen. I'm Okanagan bound ,must try to get to HON's on Robson Street one last time.
9
should have said "dope shops" not door shops.
1
Vancouver is in a glorious location. On the couple of visits there I heard - from Vancouverites who had been there a while - the sorts of plaints written by the writerstuff - they are priced out of Vancouver proper, and being priced out of the surrounding metro areas.
Many pointed out a large number of seemingly empty apartments in "City of Glass" highrises, rarely visited, owned by wealthy Chinese or other Asians ( yet). And there was turmoil over school budgets, and dealing with drug issues.
The city has, like a good home, great bones, and a vibrancy, but it could end up pretty much like San Fransciso, a city of the wealthy, and an optimum tourist draw. Which would be sad, because it is so livable
Many pointed out a large number of seemingly empty apartments in "City of Glass" highrises, rarely visited, owned by wealthy Chinese or other Asians ( yet). And there was turmoil over school budgets, and dealing with drug issues.
The city has, like a good home, great bones, and a vibrancy, but it could end up pretty much like San Fransciso, a city of the wealthy, and an optimum tourist draw. Which would be sad, because it is so livable
70
Yes. VANC and big Midwest colleges are in the same, over-loaded boat -- filled with Chinese fleeing a dull, polluted homeland.
By that measure alone, this article should have been sent back to the writer, for more reporting and writing.
Ignoring reality rarely makes for good journalism. That includes travel journalism. Like ignoring 30 years of over-building in Shanghai, in a recent travel story about "historic" SHA.
By that measure alone, this article should have been sent back to the writer, for more reporting and writing.
Ignoring reality rarely makes for good journalism. That includes travel journalism. Like ignoring 30 years of over-building in Shanghai, in a recent travel story about "historic" SHA.
I grew up in Vancouver. I left in 1985 and moved to NY. I loved NY, but as I approached retirement age, I found it too expensive and decided I would return to my home. My home was gone. Not one building I had ever lived in still stood. Most of my friends had a abandoned Vancouver and moved elsewhere, because they'd either been offered a pile of money, if they were lucky enough to own a piece of Vancouver, or they had simply been priced out of the city. The city is not Vancouver, but Hongcouver. While I was there, there was a running argument about whether Chinese signs had to also carry the English equivalent. As I wandered through my old haunts, unless you were eating in a pricey eaterie all food tasted vaguely like egg rolls, because all the restaurants, French, Italian, Greek etc. had been bought by Chinese. The was plenty of Pho, but even White Spot's burgers had changed. The city has been sold. The streets are overun with expensive cars driven by spoiled rich kids, who flaunt their parents ill-gotten gains. The architecture is so bad that they had something called the 'condo crisis' in which new buildings simply fall apart after a few years. It doesn't matter, they will be knocked down anyway after a few years. Vancouver has no soul anymore, a work in progress indeed, but I can't afford to live there either. Time to move to Asia.
60
With attitude like that stay where you are.. we don't need you here in Canada. P.S I'm from NYC originally now living here in Vancouver
10
We are very fortunate to call Timothy Taylor our own. The West Coast boasts many talented writers. He has captured important insights about my former home town, which is changing so rapidly I barely recognize it. For we who were born and raised, it is heart breaking to see all the homes torn down at such a rapid rate. Not just artists, but the middle class decamp for Bowen Island or the suburbs to allow the wealthy to occupy the city. I live in Victoria now and feel sad to think of this and the horrible hockey thug violence Taylor references as well as common gang land shootings Taylor doesn't mention. Politicians need to work hard to stop the demolitions and save the housing market and create more social housing for artists and mixed income families. He mentions the Down town East side but tourists are truly shocked when they stumble across it. There is nothing like it in any Canadian city. Another major problem too big for any municipal government alone to address.
9
I was there in 2011, on a business trip, for the Stanley Cup final game. Sleeping on the 26th floor of the Hilton(?) across from the coliseum. Blissfully unaware of what was happening on the streets below. When I walked out of the hotel to go to work the next morning, the street was lined with burned out cars.
I looked around for the movie crew. Vancouver is a favorite location for filming. Fortunately when we checked in the day before the front desk clerk asked where we parked our rental car. When we said "the open lot across the street", he insisted on comping us for underground hotel parking; because "it might be rowdy out there tonight". Nice people, Canadians.
There is one point in the late afternoon, when 4 airlines land their 747 flights from Hong Kong, at the same time. The customs hall instantly fills up with 1,200 people, some of whom are becoming permanent residents. Best to time your arrival to avoid this.
I looked around for the movie crew. Vancouver is a favorite location for filming. Fortunately when we checked in the day before the front desk clerk asked where we parked our rental car. When we said "the open lot across the street", he insisted on comping us for underground hotel parking; because "it might be rowdy out there tonight". Nice people, Canadians.
There is one point in the late afternoon, when 4 airlines land their 747 flights from Hong Kong, at the same time. The customs hall instantly fills up with 1,200 people, some of whom are becoming permanent residents. Best to time your arrival to avoid this.
27