I fished with John Herzer in early April during the Skwala stonefly hatch. I think it was the best guided trip I have ever experienced. The article is wonderful, but the fishing with this crew is even better. John and his staff are outstanding. None of my group are new comers to Montana, and we've been fly fishing for years. One of us lives on the Yellowstone, just south of Emigrant. He was blown away by how terrific Blackfoot Outfitters were. Loved this trip!!!
For those who only saw the movie, it was actually filmed mostly near Bozeman & Livingston Mt. and on the Gallatin, Yelowstone & Boulder Rivers. My daughter lived in Red Lodge, Mt. and I fished the Gallatin but found the best fly fishing at the Bighorn River.
I first started fly fishing in Jr. high school on the lakes and mountain streams of upper East Tennessee. Later I read (and have since reread) A River Runs Through It and saw the movie. But as I read Gluck's article I wondered if he or his editor know the term "spoiler alert." I'm sure a lot of people who read this article had never heard of Maclean's novel or the movie. After reading Gluck's article why read the novel (or see the movie), especially the novel which is a jewel? Gluck could have easily written his article without revealing the key parts of the novel/movie.
"autobiographical novella" ... no. Semi-autobiographical yes, but Mclean made it very clear that the story is fiction, albeit based on parts of his life. And there are numerous passages which are counter-biographical, perhaps most notably that Paul died in Chicago, not in Missoula.
"The body and spirit suffer no more sudden visitation than that of losing a big fish, since, after all, there must be some slight transition between life and death."
Norman Maclean's gift of language is even more on display in Young Men and Fire, his 1992 book about the Mann Gulch fire of 1949.
Norman Maclean's gift of language is even more on display in Young Men and Fire, his 1992 book about the Mann Gulch fire of 1949.
2
It's good that only one book was written about fly angling and thus the anglers are only drawn to the Blackfoot River in Montana.
3
Beautiful article...may it NOT drive more tourism into Missoula! You mentioned that you considered "A River Runs Through It" the best novel on fly-fishing. While it is indeed a fine book that lures a re-reading, i was wondering if you had read David James Duncan's "The River Why"? Different locale, a most memorable read. A book that, taken from various individuals, is the bible of fly-fishing on a river..as confirmed by fly-fisherman themselves. BTW, that famous cast scene in the film version where Paul seems to weave a web of line over the river? Not in the book and. per informed fly-fishermen, an act defying physics and a authentic fly-fisherman's feel of wrist.
4
Call someplace Paradise.
Kiss it Goodbye.
Kiss it Goodbye.
3
Don't forget that there are alot of women who like this sport too.
See www.IWFA.org
See www.IWFA.org
3
I went to college at Msu (Bozeman) in the 70s. Montana like the rest of the west, was already over crowded and over developed. Since then we've added 100 million more people and not one ac more of land. Before you get all weepy eyed about how beautiful it is now, think about what it will be like as we add another 100 million in the next 30 years. As Ed abbey said, nothing that is beautiful or Wild or free will survive the on going crush of humanity. Think about this as you listen to the charlatans running for office this year, and in the future. They keep telling us more is always better. Look around. It's not.
6
The McLeans fished on foot. A very different sport. You cannot do it today as the Parade of Boats, bearing eastern dudes, takes up all the holes, even on weekdays. Steps taken now could preserve the fishing from such dudes, and from greenhouse warming and the introduction of pike by hillbillys, but those steps are not being taken. Its gone.
Ken Lockridge, fished on foot in Montana 1991-2007, gathered the stories of the old foot-fishermen I met.
Ken Lockridge, fished on foot in Montana 1991-2007, gathered the stories of the old foot-fishermen I met.
4
That is nonsense. I fished the Blackfoot on Friday. It was a beautiful day and hardly anyone was on the river. I did see some eastern dudes and some mid-western not-really-dudes as well. All are welcome. I was in a boat, but there are innumerable places one can wade the river, especially up high, closer to the confluence. The illegal introduction of other species, like Northern Pike, is a problem, but not so far not in the Blackfoot.
For the record, the best fly fishing scene in any Hollywood movie is found in "The Libeled Lady", with William Powell as the consummate--and very hilarious--fly fisherman.
I was camping in Lundy Canyon, Eastern Sierras last week. The campsite next to a gurguling stream feeding off the snow melt. The trout manuevering in the shadows and pools as skimmers, water striders and other critters danced above. One day took me to Tioga Pass and Ellery Lake to explore the snow fields, alpine flora. Below the dam there are catch basins where I observed one 12" trout landlocked in a pool. I spent a good while observing, throwing in a small pebble or two to guage a response. The hours literally fly by when you are insync with the landscape and tuned out of the world. Perhaps you can fish with your eyes, the pole on the side and catch a bounty as well.
2
When I saw A River Runs Through It, the beauty of Montana made me want to see it one day. I haven't made it there yet, but after reading this excellent article, I am going to try to get there as soon as possible.
3
An article about Missoula, and no mention of Charlie B's, where college professors drink with cowboys? And stay at Paws Up, whose owners tried to trademark (and, fortunately, failed) the Montana motto "the last best place"?
C'mon!
C'mon!
2
And MacKenzie River Pizza over Biga Pizza? Paws Up over pretty much, well, anywhere? This is an article by someone on vacation writing their trip off, not a writer interested in researching our local culture and values.
2
And a beer from tourist-trap Tamarack instead of bothering to find out that Highlander beer has been brought back to life.
Oh, please! Yes, Charlie's is great and so is Biga Pizza, but so are the Mo Club and Bridge Pizza. And lots of others places, too, including Tamarack (which always seems filled with locals to me) and MacKenzie River Pizza.
I am with you on Paws Up, though. Stay away from that place!
I am with you on Paws Up, though. Stay away from that place!
2
I'm working my way to Montana, Colorado being my western-most fly fishing destination at present. So glad to hear that the Big Blackfoot has been rescued, many thanks to those responsible.
Tight lines!
Tight lines!
1
I love fly-fishing and was excited to be driving into Montana from Yellowstone three years ago. But once I got into Montana, it seemed that every few miles there was one or more white Christian crosses on the side of the road that appeared to be installed by the local government to mark a spot where one or more people had died in a car accident. I couldn't help but feel the pain of these unknown people and their unknown grieving survivors. Sharing their grief through the placement of these crosses every few miles was an emotional burden. These crosses turned the drive from being a joyful vacation to one of unending somber. Since these crosses were on public property and appeared to be permanently placed there by the local government, it made me feel unwelcome in Montana since I am not a Christian.
6
I've lived in Montana for almost 15yrs and I am not Christian and I have never felt unwelcome. Most of the accidents on those country roads are usually terrible accidents. Late at night, motorcycles/no helmets and plenty of drunk drivers on two lane country roads. The crosses are not put there by the local government. Montana is a live and let live state.
8
What you say is interesting because when I lived in Missoula (for well over 10 years), I had numerous people tell me that John Herzer does, in fact, deliberately fish for bull trout. Soooo, the fact that you caught one doesn't surprise me at all.
Oh--and staying at Paws Up ... I think if folks want to just THROW money away, they should contact me and I'll send them my address. (I used to work there. It's NOT that special.)
Oh--and staying at Paws Up ... I think if folks want to just THROW money away, they should contact me and I'll send them my address. (I used to work there. It's NOT that special.)
8
Great article. You'd get nowhere with those flies in the Cumberland valley, Catskills or west branch Delaware where the fish are smart and wary. In Allentown this morning they we on 22/24 Tricos. No foam...no rubber legs.
7
We have some pretty good fly fishing here in Vermont, the Adirondacks, New Hampshire, Maine and Quebec, but I really want to get out to Montana sometime...sigh. I enjoyed this article and one commenter's comment about not catching anything to enjoy fly fishing.
If anyone is looking for a good read about fly fishing (and coming of age) please read "The River Why" by David James Duncan - you will not be sorry
If anyone is looking for a good read about fly fishing (and coming of age) please read "The River Why" by David James Duncan - you will not be sorry
8
I was graduated from Univ of Montana a long time ago with a BA in English Lit. One of the best courses I had was called Montana Writers and it was there that I met A River Runs Through It. Fact I used to live bout three house from the old Maclean house. I was also a rafting guide for years. I loved this article. But I have to say that, as a lover of literature, rafting, and Montana, and generally a lover of the NYTimes, I was more than a little startled and put off by the suggestion of staying at PawsUp. I know Mick Jagger stayed there, and a few other notables, but if you genuinely are looking for Montana, don't think I'd start there.
15
Buckeyetotheend:
Thanks, "Paws Up" commercializing Not necessary to love Montana!
Thanks, "Paws Up" commercializing Not necessary to love Montana!
6
Why not keep the rainbow? They're invasive there. Is it that if rainbows and browns were kept, the only fish left would be listed bull trout?
Would be interesting to remove the browns and rainbows and see how the bull do without the competition. It'd be a nice surprise to maybe see them return a bit. Interesting thought.
1
The best parts of this article are the comments on the quality of the water and the catch and release policy. I came to fly fishing late, and soon learned that my biggest challenge would be to find clean water with healthy trout. Such waters are not abundant in the mid-Atlantic, and where they exist they typically are crowded and often overfished.
So, Montana, continue to fight off the developers and do all to protect the quality of your rivers and streams.
So, Montana, continue to fight off the developers and do all to protect the quality of your rivers and streams.
22
Sweet. It's not only anglers who love that book and can recite those closing lines from memory, but thank you for reminding us.
7
Don't forget to go to the Kettlehouse and partake of Cold Smoke...or to the Big Dipper for cardamom or Cold Smoke ice cream...and when you're off the big river go up and take a look at the North Fork, or head south to the West Fork, or the Madison, or Rock Creek. And remember, most of that land you're looking at, why heck, it belongs to you. It's public mostly and we all own it so welcome home.
10
"Something holy" in killing. Now that is a unique expression. But then I am not a fisher. Nice photo of the fish swimming and much more credit to your talent than the hook and fly which I assume you tied.
1
Sometimes it is best to leave a fleeting, haunting remembrance alone. Before all New York makes it a cocktail party strut that one hopes a river runs throughout it.
6
As a longtime lover of river fishing, and of The Fshing in Print( Arnold Gingrich), I could not resist reading this story. However I am more than a little sad to learn that the Blackfoot River is catch and release only.
In my opnion , no lover of nature and fishing would torture a fine fish just for fun. The catch should be apreciated and eaten.
In my opnion , no lover of nature and fishing would torture a fine fish just for fun. The catch should be apreciated and eaten.
4
Asking the fish whether it prefers torture to death would be illuminating.
9
You may think it is pristine and well preserved. But what you are fishing on is the result of a 25 year restoration project of a fishery that was in a sorry state. There were almost no fish in the river when they began what is a splendid example of people working together to save a great river.
27
The second best thing about Fly Fishing is not catching anything.
8
Just what that river needed. Now the crowds will resemble those on the eastern streams where people fish shoulder to shoulder. Well done.
3
Well done with proper justice to the book and Missoula.
All you Maclean fans should also read "Young Men and Fire". It's about smoke jumpers and what they gave after coming home from the war.
Keep your rod tip high and your line tight! Ten to two, just like that metronome !
All you Maclean fans should also read "Young Men and Fire". It's about smoke jumpers and what they gave after coming home from the war.
Keep your rod tip high and your line tight! Ten to two, just like that metronome !
6
Oh come on, I CANNOT be the only one commenting. People - when Maclean is quoted - you need to listen. Referring to his writing as lyrical doesn't quite cover it - not sure melodic is enough either.
Anyway - thanks to this article and the author's appreciation of what he was writing about, I hope to be visiting the Big Blackfoot/Missoula soon. Coming from Seattle I wasn't quite sure if it was totally worth it (given so many other places I want to visit), but I think this article pushed me over the edge. And for anyone who hasn't been to Montana, or places similar, you don't need to be fishing to take in something beautiful. And now I know where to stay! Thanks Jon-
Anyway - thanks to this article and the author's appreciation of what he was writing about, I hope to be visiting the Big Blackfoot/Missoula soon. Coming from Seattle I wasn't quite sure if it was totally worth it (given so many other places I want to visit), but I think this article pushed me over the edge. And for anyone who hasn't been to Montana, or places similar, you don't need to be fishing to take in something beautiful. And now I know where to stay! Thanks Jon-
4
Very nicely written- but please keep in mind - this is the editor of Vogue. Mr. Gluck, I'm sure you are a wonderful man, but PAWS Up is NOT one of those in the Blackfoot to have been helpful to saving the river. I've been told by those who are working very hard to keep things moving - that the owner has been a pain in the …
Montana is a joy to live in, frigid cold still dives in and scares off the tourists. Grizzlies are less than 2 miles from my home where I write this, but this morning one of the locals at coffee in town bragged how he had just bought a backhoe. The meaning is that he could now shoot the Griz and bury it so no one would know. We are struggling with who we are here. We admire those who are strong and honest, but are willing to hide from the truth to protect what we perceive as our "special rights".
Montana is a joy to live in, frigid cold still dives in and scares off the tourists. Grizzlies are less than 2 miles from my home where I write this, but this morning one of the locals at coffee in town bragged how he had just bought a backhoe. The meaning is that he could now shoot the Griz and bury it so no one would know. We are struggling with who we are here. We admire those who are strong and honest, but are willing to hide from the truth to protect what we perceive as our "special rights".
4
I read this book when it came out. A good friend of mine, Walter "Mike" Thieme, lived next door to the McClean's. He always said that in truth it was MRS. McClean that was the best fisher person in the family. Just thought you might like to know.
17
Oh dear, my 'nom de guerre' has been exposed, but if you can't catch 'em with an Adams Wulff, it's time to head home.
5
+1 ... all day long.
1
Another wonderful place to stay is The Gibson Mansion B+B at 823 39th Street in Missoula. The rooms are lovely, the breakfasts generous, well presented and healthful and the hosts personable. My husband and I stayed there in June and again in early July.
6
A beautiful book, and a beautiful tribute to it. Thank you.
5
Most excellent article about a wonderful place and a favorite book.
The only thing missing is the narration by Robert Redford.
The only thing missing is the narration by Robert Redford.
7
The beauty of the strike. That moment when the rod, line, water, and prey are one and anticipation is action.
Time is still. The pull of the fish on line held firm but supple, protecting the leader from breaking or hook to bend. Nothing else matters, is present, or clutters the mind. A gift.
Time is still. The pull of the fish on line held firm but supple, protecting the leader from breaking or hook to bend. Nothing else matters, is present, or clutters the mind. A gift.
7
"It pains the cynic in me to say so, but my trip was more magical than haunting."
Why would it be haunting for you? How could it not be haunting for Maclean?
Why would it be haunting for you? How could it not be haunting for Maclean?
1
He's a writer. You have to put with that kind of stuff in articles.
1
Wow, wasn't expecting that. Well done.
4
Pearl herself rides herd on the entire, smoothly running, operation.
Would recommend the Pearl Cafe unconditionally.