Interesting the comment section is still open, all these years after the election. I wonder what kind of cable or dish TV and at what cost the commenters who were incredulous at the cost had in their homes circa 2016? My wife and I have neither and could afford to eat here a few times a year (upgrades set aside) on that differential alone. Priorities, that's all. Why eat an $11 "steak" and then head home to watch $3 or $5 per day television? To each their own. Though I feel it a shame they'll never know what they missed. On the matter of service. Of course it lacks in a tip included environment. My dinners in Europe (including Iceland) generally had mediocre service as well. Tip included, by the way, is not the same as gratuity added to parties of 8 or more. It means exactly what the former PS server in these comments suggests. Vive le pourboire optionnel.
1
I can afford to pay $350 for a meal, but I can't think of any reason why I would.
5
$3,000 for a 4 hour dinner for 4, about half what we paid for a 7 day cruise to Alaska on Holland America with a veranda. Good thing the rich are getting a tax break, they clearly need it more than our country needs better roads and better benefits for our returning veterans,
9
Just goes to show what happens when the chef leaves the kitchen . Remember Lutece and Chef Anddre Soltner who was there every night for 34 years in his very small kitchen putting out wonderful meals .
7
The existence of such a restaurant is perverse. There is no moral justification for a thousand dollar meal in a world where people die from diseases that can be cured with salt cubes.
12
Utter balderdash! My wife and I dined at Per Se this past Friday. For reference, we dined the previous night at Bouley and the subsequent night at Le Bernardin and did the tasting at all three. Le Bernardin gets my nod, but just slightly, over Per Se. Wells gives Bouley 3 stars? Per Se is head and shoulder above Bouley - not even near the same class. Per Se was exceptional, although one could quibble about the price, which IS steep. 2 stars? What a crock. A caveat: Per Se is about a more classic approach to cooking, so if you are looking for the newest thing, this is not the place.
5
I had always looked forward to per se, expensive but worth it, what I always liked is that they treated you like royalty regardless of your status. But Per Se was busy on our last visit in New York we tried Del Posto. Yes it was expensive, but worth it.
Winners come and winners go. Such is the nature of things.
Winners come and winners go. Such is the nature of things.
3
Ditto, Mr. Wells, ditto. I'll try to keep this short. While I'm sure my handbag was delighted to receive its own stool for the evening, I would have been happier if just a little more attention had been paid to my experience. I'm not wealthy by a long shot, but each year my friends and I choose one NY restaurant at which to have a transcendent dining experience. A few years ago, we chose Per Se. Prix fixe plus wine pairings plus supplements and tips, and this meal cost me $750. There were two "incidents" that decided I would never be back (and the price wasn't one of them). First, the caviar on the signature starter was terribly mushy. So mushy, it shouldn't have been served. Sorry, I know it's what many guests are hoping to have, but if it sucks you shouldn't serve it. Second, and far more egregious, was the fact that a giant piece of cork came floating in a glass of wine. Now how many people looked at that glass and didn't do anything about it? At least two--the person who poured it and the person who delivered it. I would excuse either of these incidents if my evening had cost me $150 or less. But the contract that Per Se and I entered into was established from the get go--I would cough up the equivalent of two year's salary in some developing countries, and Per Se would earn it. Sorry, Per Se, but you welched on the deal.
25
Anyone who throws their napkin on the floor should pick it up themselves--and never again dine in public.
21
What a brave review! Love it! I can only hope this 'shock and awe' review results in some positive changes to those restaurants that sit on their past wins.
In the end though, isnt about people wanting good service for the price they pay?
In the end though, isnt about people wanting good service for the price they pay?
3
Petie sweetie if you would enlighten me about how bong water tastes, I will tell you how wine on the Nile Hilton tastes. Deal?
3
Thomas Keller was my hero and I was a little in love with him, from the time I ate at Rakel his restaurant in the Village. That is until my daughter treated me to dinner at Per Se a few years ago. What a disappointment, rancid walnuts in the soup, mainly unmemorable mediocre food and pretentious service. We walked away so very disappointed, what should have been a highlight was not. I have never understood the raves before or after my visit.
Thank you Pete Wells for your review I feel validated in my opinion.
Thank you Pete Wells for your review I feel validated in my opinion.
14
Nancy and I went to our first 3 Star restaurant in 1978 or 79, and continued on to many others over the next 15 years, primarily in France. At the beginning, these meals were other worldly, providing experiences and food like we had never had.
Long story short, we returned to one years later, and as we were leaving, Nancy said "Am I getting jaded, or is this not as good as it used to be?" My answer: " Yes...and yes. You've eaten at some of the best restaurants in teh world, and this wasn't up to those standards."
They had become world famous, and simply weren't 'caring' as much as at the beginning. We decided our next task was to find little one star restaurants, often in the country, who were providing the best food and experiences they possibly could. Their 'star' was representative of that. We were much happier, and saved a great deal of money in the process.
By the tone of Mr. Wells' review, it sounds like déja vu all over again. (Thanks Yogi)
Long story short, we returned to one years later, and as we were leaving, Nancy said "Am I getting jaded, or is this not as good as it used to be?" My answer: " Yes...and yes. You've eaten at some of the best restaurants in teh world, and this wasn't up to those standards."
They had become world famous, and simply weren't 'caring' as much as at the beginning. We decided our next task was to find little one star restaurants, often in the country, who were providing the best food and experiences they possibly could. Their 'star' was representative of that. We were much happier, and saved a great deal of money in the process.
By the tone of Mr. Wells' review, it sounds like déja vu all over again. (Thanks Yogi)
8
I'm a professional chef and I understand the Michelin system quite well. Tokyo, for example, has the most Michelin stars because Michelin wants to appease the Asian market by giving them a lot of stars. This way they will spend money on dining outside of Asia.
I lived in Tokyo for a year. That being said, if Jiro can get 3 Michelin stars for sushi, in a corridor of a subway station, then the Michelin rating system isn't what it used to be. I'm sure that his sushi is right about perfect but it's sushi. There are possibly 10 items in that restaurant that are actually cooked.
As a professional (not too young to have stars in her eyes but not too old to understand how things move in the industry) I'll tell you that Michelin means little to the cutting edge of cooks. It means far more to people who haven't had an original idea in 10 years. Unfortunately, Keller falls into this category. He's so out of the loop that he fell for the Mast Brothers chocolate con buying up their product which ended up being the exact same couverture (valrhona chocolate) that Keller used in his own kitchen. If it wasn't so hilarious it would be sad.
Naturally, cooks (we still call ourselves cooks because that is what we are) want to succeed and make a lot of money but no one I know aspires to a Michelin anymore. They would rather be locally, possibly nationally known, make a good living and stay out until 3am once in a while. This isn't possible for anyone seeing a Michelin. Quality of life.
I lived in Tokyo for a year. That being said, if Jiro can get 3 Michelin stars for sushi, in a corridor of a subway station, then the Michelin rating system isn't what it used to be. I'm sure that his sushi is right about perfect but it's sushi. There are possibly 10 items in that restaurant that are actually cooked.
As a professional (not too young to have stars in her eyes but not too old to understand how things move in the industry) I'll tell you that Michelin means little to the cutting edge of cooks. It means far more to people who haven't had an original idea in 10 years. Unfortunately, Keller falls into this category. He's so out of the loop that he fell for the Mast Brothers chocolate con buying up their product which ended up being the exact same couverture (valrhona chocolate) that Keller used in his own kitchen. If it wasn't so hilarious it would be sad.
Naturally, cooks (we still call ourselves cooks because that is what we are) want to succeed and make a lot of money but no one I know aspires to a Michelin anymore. They would rather be locally, possibly nationally known, make a good living and stay out until 3am once in a while. This isn't possible for anyone seeing a Michelin. Quality of life.
11
Thomas Keller owned up to the review without making excuses or pointing fingers. The reality is that he sources the best ingredients but demands that Chef Eli change the menu everyday and no one ingredient can repeat itself on the 9 course tasting menu. To put it in perspective, Chef Eli has been at Per Se since 2004 so he has seen the menu change 4032 times in a 12 year span. This is a daunting task for a chef who comes up with the menu at 2am then leaves the restaurant at 3am just to return at 930 am for another 17 hour day. He's praised in the culinary world because everyone knows how difficult it is to come up with dishes on a daily basis then have your team execute your vision on the spot. Mr Wells did highlight some moments of sheer bliss and i have no doubt that the Per Se team would blow his mind if he returned and didn't have the daily restraints against them. Maybe its time for Thomas Keller to let go and allow Chef Eli to put out good food and leave the creativity to be done at a more natural pace.
The last thing that i have to address is price because it always seems to be the never ending rant about fine dinning establishments. Chef Thomas Keller sources the best ingredient in the United States, Per Se is located in some of the most expensive real-estate in NYC, and the entire staff works 14 to 18 hour days to provide a memorable experience for its guest. Is sweat, restlessness, and inconceivable stress worth it. Chef Eli and his team would say Yes!
The last thing that i have to address is price because it always seems to be the never ending rant about fine dinning establishments. Chef Thomas Keller sources the best ingredient in the United States, Per Se is located in some of the most expensive real-estate in NYC, and the entire staff works 14 to 18 hour days to provide a memorable experience for its guest. Is sweat, restlessness, and inconceivable stress worth it. Chef Eli and his team would say Yes!
8
We were just there Thursday evening and the food and service were impeccable. I was unaware of this droll review walking in however it would not have influenced me nor should it change the opinion of others. Clearly the writer has an agenda. Ours was to experience a "bucket list" dining experience and we were fully satisfied from start to finish. When the server noticed that I was not finishing my scallop (because I do not prefer them) I was asked if I would like something different. On another course when I simply didn't have room to finish, I was asked again if I would prefer a different choice. My napkin was not only folded but replaced if I left the table, and they even brought a small stool for my bag. The sommelier was impeccable in that we chose to go with pairings throughout and his selections and timing were perfection! The servers appeared and then disappeared without too much chatter and we had an amazing dining experience, one that I only wish we could be so lucky to repeat on more than one occasion. I should probably thank the thin- minded readers who cancelled their reservations and made room for our lovely dining experience as it was not only magical but memorable and now sits at Number One on our foodie list of experiences. Carry on.
5
Too bad the restaurant can't review the customer
4
According to Ms. Manners, when one leaves the table intending to return, one leaves the napkin on his/her seat to signal that intention to the waitstaff. Last I heard, the wait staff should leave the napkin there and let the returning occupant pick it up and place it on his/her lap. The reasoning is obvious: who wants waitstaff who has been handling dining equipment at other tables in the restaurant to add those germs to the napkin? And who wants dining equipment delivered by a hand that has been on another person's soiled napkin? Either way, re-folding a diner's napkin is not an elegant touch. "Reaching out" has its limits.
4
Assuming (safely, I think) that Mr. Wells was not under the influence of a $500 bottle of lousy wine as well during his meal, Per Se must close or become a laughing stock, along with all subsequent guests. This review was simply too detailed and too observant to be ignored. Maybe it will take Danny Meyer opening a Shake Shack in this space to cleanse the location from being associated with this review forever.
8
I have survived a 0-star review in a city that has more restaurants per capita than anywhere else in NA. I'm fairly certain that TK can survive this ;-)
The difference, of course, is that this review was published by the New York Times about a restaurant that gets noticed not in small part because of the charges demanded for its bill of fare.
1
This was quite a shocking read for my husband and I. We visited Per Se last summer for a milestone celebration dinner and it was by far THE best dining experience we have ever had in our lives, and we are in the food and hospitality industry. We both have an allergy to gluten and the fact that we were completely taken care of and able to eat every single thing was mind blowing. You have no clue what it's like to have absolutely delicious breads and doughnuts made for YOU that YOU can safely eat! That is the essence of hospitality to me and worth the price. I was actually dreaming about those doughnuts today, I would gladly pay that much just have those again, and well maybe the risotto with truffles. Aside from that our server was exceptionally detailed and very generous with the truffles. Win. As for the 2 cookie per person dessert goodie bags, well maybe your table was full of jerks because we left with a box full of handmade chocolates, sorry.
3
Call me sadistic, but did anyone else out there chuckle in satisfaction as they read this review? And please don't misconstrue. The man is arguably the greatest innovator in contemporary American dining, being an icon and inspiration for culinary dynamic, education and perfection. However, and in comparison to the fictional "Dorsia" in American Psycho, I couldn't help but to appreciate such an honest review for such an "elitist" culture. I will always respect you Mr. Keller, but I will never dine with you.
5
Pete Wells calling it for what it is, Per Se is overpriced and they under-delivered! Despite the response from Thomas Keller to "do better", that's not enough when people fork out $$$$ for a below-standard experience. Furthermore, cast your eyes on the photograph on slide 8 of the attached slide show, chefs handling food without gloves and a band-aid on one chef's finger is unsanitary.
5
Perfection is impossible to maintain. It's part of the human condition. If I dined at this establishment my expectations would be out of this world.
Portland, Oregon has many outstanding restaurants, but none on the caliber
of Per Se or Napa Valley French Laundry.
I am tired of restaurant trying to make 'over the top dishes" with an odd mix of ingredients. I hope the next trend is organic "clean" food simply prepare. Let those few ingredients shine.
175.00 Risotto, PLEASE. I would explode with righteous indignation.
Portland, Oregon has many outstanding restaurants, but none on the caliber
of Per Se or Napa Valley French Laundry.
I am tired of restaurant trying to make 'over the top dishes" with an odd mix of ingredients. I hope the next trend is organic "clean" food simply prepare. Let those few ingredients shine.
175.00 Risotto, PLEASE. I would explode with righteous indignation.
4
"Put a knife to your throat if you are given to gluttony." -Proverbs 23:2
The chief error about Gluttony is to think it only pertains to food. Some people can't have enough toys, television, entertainment, sex, being served, or company. It is about an excess of anything.
There are at least three forms of Gluttony:
1) Wanting more pleasure from something than it was made for.
2) Wanting it exactly our way (delicacy).
3) Demanding too much from people (excessive desire for other people's time or presence)
There is a certain amount of discomfort to be expected in life, but the Glutton will have none of it. Instead of becoming strong by suffering the minor inconveniences of life, the Glutton insists on being pampered. No one dares to point out how petty or foolish they are. In fact, some celebrities are praised for their excessive perfectionism, as though it were a virtue.
Wells, and some of the players at the dinner table, as well as some of the elitist commentators here, are exhibit A as to the state of our declining culture. Sickening really.
The chief error about Gluttony is to think it only pertains to food. Some people can't have enough toys, television, entertainment, sex, being served, or company. It is about an excess of anything.
There are at least three forms of Gluttony:
1) Wanting more pleasure from something than it was made for.
2) Wanting it exactly our way (delicacy).
3) Demanding too much from people (excessive desire for other people's time or presence)
There is a certain amount of discomfort to be expected in life, but the Glutton will have none of it. Instead of becoming strong by suffering the minor inconveniences of life, the Glutton insists on being pampered. No one dares to point out how petty or foolish they are. In fact, some celebrities are praised for their excessive perfectionism, as though it were a virtue.
Wells, and some of the players at the dinner table, as well as some of the elitist commentators here, are exhibit A as to the state of our declining culture. Sickening really.
5
It was always a lot of hooey to come here. One is reminded of story of The Emperor's New Clothes. However, I am not afraid to say that I could not be less interested in being served "salmon tartare and creme fraiche fitted into an ice cream cone the size of a triple-A battery"...as one example of how ludicrous the menu is and the pomposity that exemplifies a Per Se experience.
This does not represent fine dining to me.
This does not represent fine dining to me.
11
This is one of the greatest restaurant reviews I have ever read. Where else could one read about bouillon referred to as bong water...or tasting like peanut butter to which something terrible had done? Keep writing like this, and I may visit one of the restaurants that I can afford.
7
Thank you for writing what we have felt all along. With great anticipation we dined at Per Se about 8 years ago. We are not novices at fine dining, having eaten at Jean Georges, Daniel, Spiaggia, Spago, Noma, The Fat Duck, etc. but this left us totally speechless. When you pay this much you expect the service /food to equal the price. We were ignored, had dirty dishes left on the table between courses, and never given a menu/price list when asking for an after diner drink. Just a rude waiter reciting what they may or may not have and what was I interested in. We received no "treats" upon our departure.In fact we sat for 10 minuted waiting and finally left. We frequent the California wine country and had planned to eat at The French Laundry, but that all never happen. Nor will we ever darken the door of a Thomas Keller establishment. There are many more excellent restaurants that we can spend our money on.
5
The culinary gymnastics that have become the norm for getting noticed is so utterly exhausting and frequently indecipherable I would rather stay home. A tasting menu just wears out the tastebuds and who can possibly remember them all given the buckets of wine on offer?
Pete Wells has graciously made note of the fact the emperor is wearing no clothes under that apron.
Pete Wells has graciously made note of the fact the emperor is wearing no clothes under that apron.
2
This review does not scratch the surface.
The dishes are unconscionably tiny. Not asking for family-style platters but there should be enough to savor and evaluate. One bite does not constitute a culinary experience.
In order to compensate for this penurious approach to dining, the staff try to make up with plate after plate of sickly sweet dessert items. Artless, tasteless cookies and other nondescript items.
Per Se has been a true example of "the King's New Clothes", hoodwinking the general public and living off 10 year old reviews which only apply to "food critics."
The dishes are unconscionably tiny. Not asking for family-style platters but there should be enough to savor and evaluate. One bite does not constitute a culinary experience.
In order to compensate for this penurious approach to dining, the staff try to make up with plate after plate of sickly sweet dessert items. Artless, tasteless cookies and other nondescript items.
Per Se has been a true example of "the King's New Clothes", hoodwinking the general public and living off 10 year old reviews which only apply to "food critics."
5
Sometimes it's not where you are (what you spend) but who your with that makes the difference.
3
these days, its more about celebrity than actual delivery of great food....chefs are too busy making 'appearances' so they cannot possibly maintain or even achieve a high quality product. This is no surprise.
1
I live in Tokyo, a city with the most Michelin stars. I've stopped reading foodie reviews other than to provide some kind of compass. I avoid "foam" restaurants like the plague and am uncomfortable in the company of "blue or lavender haired dowagers." I prefer honest cooking and will save my money for a Grand Cru that I can enjoy with friends, or alone if need be. IMHO treat each dining experience as an adventure with no precedents. I think the disappointment wittily expressed by Thomas Keller is symptomatic of too much money chasing too many expectations and false appearances.
4
that anyone would pay that much money for a meal that cost that little to actually make.. beyond me. i am sure these are people who complain about raising the minimum wage to $15 so people might actually be able to eat ...anything. .
2
A broken saboyon delivered to a table on a dish that expensive is inexcusable and merits 0 stars in my opinion. They're lucky they only lost one star.
2
They lost 2 stars, from 4 to 2.
1
I see the social scolds have arrived. Look, you can outlaw fine dining worldwide and it would not do a damn thing to alleviate poverty or feed 3rd-world moppets. We should all don hair shirts and flagellate ourselves because other people don't have it as good as we do?
2
This was a good old fun read! I actually laughed out loud a couple times.
Now, speaking of great experiences: would you please consider visiting Vedge in Philadelphia? I'd love to know what you think. Thank you!
Now, speaking of great experiences: would you please consider visiting Vedge in Philadelphia? I'd love to know what you think. Thank you!
3
Spending $3000 on a meal for four people is unconscionable. Look around you. How many kids could you have sponsored at a Boys and Girls club for that money? Selfish people with too much money.
6
One man's spending is another man's income. Would you rather the rich just sock it all away, preventing their dollars from ever circulating around to the rest of us? If only the upper 0.1% would spend like a fresh NBA draft, we might get the economy going again.
4
On YouTube you can find a video called "First World Problems Read by Third World People." Inhabitants of a third world country where hunger is rife and potable water scarce read first-world complaints such as "I hate when my phone charger won't reach my bed." Now imagine a third world child whose first language is not English reading the following: "she had hurled [her Napkin] to the floor in a fit of disillusionment, her small protest against the slow creep of mediocrity and missed cues during a four-hour dinner at Per Se that would cost the four of us close to $3,000." It should cure you of Per Se and any and all precocious megabuck restaurants, where the price of a single dinner could secure clean water for a village for at least a year.
15
Well said. Great points. I'm more a fan of the dialectic and believe that philanthropy and occasionally treating oneself to a fancy meal may both co-exist. That said, the pretention/entitlement of this critic is perturbing . None of us are "owed" any such luxuries!
3
My wife and I had our best meal at Mastro's in Thousand Oaks, CA. Staff was invisible unless flawlessly anticipating a need. Dinner was expensive and worth it.
Per Se's prices are such that I wouldn't dine there had I won the Powerball, and sound like a terrible value.
I believe the review. The only thing I find unbelievable is that this and similar restaurants manage to stay in business.
Per Se's prices are such that I wouldn't dine there had I won the Powerball, and sound like a terrible value.
I believe the review. The only thing I find unbelievable is that this and similar restaurants manage to stay in business.
4
EssDee - When reading the review I was thinking the same as you, but about Flemmings Steakhouse. The snob in me probably would never have set foot thru Flemmings door. But, we received a generous gift card. The service was excellent from the moment we walked thru the door. They were warm, friendly and well-trained. You only had to look up to have someone at your side. And it is the gift that keeps on giving - I received a box of chocolate truffles and a gift card for my birthday, wrote a review and received another gift card, bought a gift card and received another gift card. And btw the meal was excellent.
I still like Thomas Keller's food and we had a good experience at Bouchon. But I think like one of the other posters, we will probably just continue to cook from his books rather than go to Per Se.
I still like Thomas Keller's food and we had a good experience at Bouchon. But I think like one of the other posters, we will probably just continue to cook from his books rather than go to Per Se.
3
This is what one of my sons, an impecunious musician, calls a First-World problem. More than a thousand people chiming in on TK's fall from grace while the rest of the world burns. It is not for me to wag a finger at those who shell out 3k for a meal for four (including upsells.) People have the right to life, liberty and the pursuit of money. But it's a bit sad that the pleasure of eating has to be confused with social status, and that we are expected to feel sorry for a woman who throws her napkin on the ground in a fit of pique. As for TK, I shall continue to use his excellent cook book Ad Hoc rather than get mugged in his restaurants. He seems to have a weakness for latin tags. To which I can only say Caveat Emptor.
8
Reviews are subjective, but we pay attention. Critics have good days, bad days; and bones to pick with chefs and restaurateurs. (Who can forget "Chodorow v. Bruni")
Mr. Wells has little criticism for the food. I don't have any basis upon which to disagree with this review. His points about service are excellent, and I don't know enough about the star rating system as to why he went to two and not to three stars.
This stunning demotion is sobering, I'm sure, to all who are reviewed. It's tricky.
Mr. Wells has little criticism for the food. I don't have any basis upon which to disagree with this review. His points about service are excellent, and I don't know enough about the star rating system as to why he went to two and not to three stars.
This stunning demotion is sobering, I'm sure, to all who are reviewed. It's tricky.
1
The value of this review is that it points up how full of themselves many people are, too many people.
A vulgar waste of time and money. No meal for four is worth 3K
A vulgar waste of time and money. No meal for four is worth 3K
5
It appears Mr.Keller is treating his guests like he has been treating his employees for years...sad but true. The attention to detail from the front of the house has never spilled over in to HR. Things will have to change and paramount execution in the kitchen and front of the house are rarely achieved via high employee turnover or maltreatment of all that work there at all levels. Change is good and Per Se and all Keller's restaurants need a Renaissance. Time to step it up and be what your guests expect you to be at all levels in the front scenes and the back scenes. Imagine bkowong peoples minds instead of numbing them. Maybe this article/review will be a catalyst for change.....but I doubt it.
3
Sometimes the most high priced restaurants are not the best! Sometimes just a good old Mom and pop place is the best food around.All the "hi to do" restaurants are a lot of hot air! and Not worth the price!they just give you "uppity snooty bragging rights"
1
I am disheartened to read this review because this is not the Per Se I experienced. I've eaten here 4 times over the past 10 months (including today) and each meal felt like a special experience where the food was amazing, the presentation a visual feast for the eyes, and the service warm and efficient. I am a foodie and eat out regularly. I can't say whether eating at Per Se is "worth it" for anyone else because everyone has their own value system as well as budget. A meal at Per Se is a special 3 hour experience which I greatly enjoy and by the fact that I voted with my wallet to do so multiple times over the past year at the opportunity cost of doing something else reflects how much joy I get from eating there.
4
As the contractor for the 2008 renovation of Daniel, I was given permission to rip out the old carpet as well as access the (untouched) kitchen. I overheard "Add more ice!" from a sous chef admonishing someone to keep the fava bean puree from decomposing from light to dark green. Having witnessed what it took behind the scenes to keep the front of the house working like clockwork, what impressed me when I built DBGB downtown (a start-up with seasoned Daniel staff,) were the daily meetings the General Manager had with the waiters, runners and cooks. Using specific examples, ("Table 28 didn't get dessert fast enough,") they were thorough in reviewing every exchange and comment as an opportunity to improve themselves. The only means of keeping one's place at the top is rigorous self-examination. I met people who had no business working in hospitality, let alone at the exacting standard of Per Se or Daniel. If Thomas Keller and everyone on his payroll possessed but a pinch of pride, they'd pick up that napkin as gauntlet, face themselves in the gleam of their All-Clad pans, and prove their naysayers wrong by identifying and correcting their failures. To provide such exalted soigné is a privilege. To bring others delight is a joy. Perhaps they should take a cue from Pharrell, relax, and learn to get happy.
7
After Reading this article one can see why some people may state that Well’s critique is over the top and that his expectations were too high. However, although they may have been ridiculous, whatever high expectations Well’s had for Per Se when he stepped through the door are justified. In this piece of writing Wells, the author, destroys every aspect of the Per Se dining experience. After reading what Wells has to say it is clear that his expectations were not met, he was left totally unsatisfied when he departed Per Se. One may argue that, when writing this, Wells went a little bit overboard with his critique. Some say that there was no need to tear down Per Se the way he did in this review. Yet although Wells may have gone a bit overboard he is justified in doing so, after all he did pay $3,000 for his meal at Per Se. Wells critique is justified because when receiving a $3,000 meal one can and should expect some degree of perfection. Some may argue that Well’s expectations were too high, however these people should put themselves in Wells shoes. If someone who thinks that this critique is over the top had just paid three thousand dollars for a sub-par meal they would be just as outraged as Wells is in his review.
4
The quality of the dining experience at Per Se has declined dramatically over the last few years, even as the base prices have risen and use of supplemental charges has increased. It is high time that someone has declared the emperor naked. Thomas Keller may be the greatest living American chef, but Per Se has become a blot on his reputation and a twisted caricature of what it once was. One hopes this review will serve as a wake-up call.
5
A suggestion for all who might not consider this, when experiencing both what Mr. Wells writes of in his exemplary review, or for some of the other commenters who have been treated the full gamut of mildly discourteously, or downright rudely (the persons who were shown the "kitchen", leading to the exit).
Consider that you truly are a customer, and are paying for top notch EVERYthing. If that is not forthcoming, both say or do something: send bad dishes back; if a server is rude, snotty, snide, sneering, or any other "sn" words, ask for the captain or Maitr'D', and have him/her replaced; if service is lackluster, or slow, make it known immediately; do not tolerate nor brook mediocrity, and remain unfailingly polite and respectful. If there is such a surfeit of failures, make it known you believe you've not received what you have paid for, and have a right to. Write a letter to the owner afterwards. Ask how the service charge is assessed, and who receives it; confirm that with the staff. If the staff confirms management's contention that the staff gets the tips, but appears to be lying (you sense they don't receive what management says they do, but fear for their job) and it is not written explicitly that the "service charge" goes to management, inform them they are in violation of the law (as the "redoubtable"Bastianich and Batali discovered and ponied up about 5.25 million in settlement, not even to verdict), and you will report it to the Department of Labor. Enjoy!
Consider that you truly are a customer, and are paying for top notch EVERYthing. If that is not forthcoming, both say or do something: send bad dishes back; if a server is rude, snotty, snide, sneering, or any other "sn" words, ask for the captain or Maitr'D', and have him/her replaced; if service is lackluster, or slow, make it known immediately; do not tolerate nor brook mediocrity, and remain unfailingly polite and respectful. If there is such a surfeit of failures, make it known you believe you've not received what you have paid for, and have a right to. Write a letter to the owner afterwards. Ask how the service charge is assessed, and who receives it; confirm that with the staff. If the staff confirms management's contention that the staff gets the tips, but appears to be lying (you sense they don't receive what management says they do, but fear for their job) and it is not written explicitly that the "service charge" goes to management, inform them they are in violation of the law (as the "redoubtable"Bastianich and Batali discovered and ponied up about 5.25 million in settlement, not even to verdict), and you will report it to the Department of Labor. Enjoy!
6
In July 2015 Per Se had a run in with the Dept of Labor - http://waiterpay.com/2015/07/08/per-se-to-pay-500000-for-stealing-waiter...
"Per Se, one of New York’s best and most expensive restaurants, settled a wage violation case with Attorney General Eric Schneiderman for $500,000.
A Department of Labor investigation revealed that Per Se was keeping the 20% service charge it charged customers. The surcharges, considered a “gratuity” under the law, should have been paid to the waiters and waitresses. Instead, the money was funneled back to Per Se restaurant operations. Section 169(d) of New York Labor Law states that employers cannot keep “any part of the gratuities, received by an employee, or retain any part of a gratuity or of any charge purported to be a gratuity for an employee.”
And from the August 7, 2015 Wall Street Journal:
"Last month, Per Se, one of Manhattan’s most expensive restaurants, reached a $500,000 settlement with the state attorney general’s office on charges that the restaurant improperly withheld some tips from employees for nearly two years.""
"Per Se, one of New York’s best and most expensive restaurants, settled a wage violation case with Attorney General Eric Schneiderman for $500,000.
A Department of Labor investigation revealed that Per Se was keeping the 20% service charge it charged customers. The surcharges, considered a “gratuity” under the law, should have been paid to the waiters and waitresses. Instead, the money was funneled back to Per Se restaurant operations. Section 169(d) of New York Labor Law states that employers cannot keep “any part of the gratuities, received by an employee, or retain any part of a gratuity or of any charge purported to be a gratuity for an employee.”
And from the August 7, 2015 Wall Street Journal:
"Last month, Per Se, one of Manhattan’s most expensive restaurants, reached a $500,000 settlement with the state attorney general’s office on charges that the restaurant improperly withheld some tips from employees for nearly two years.""
8
All of these so called "fine dining" restaurants have lost their way. Their celebrity chef/owners appear to have a passion for appearing on the food network and a passion for building their multi-restaurant empires, but they clearlynhave lost their passion for serving great food to patrons, and their hired executive chef's cannot convey passion for someone else's food. I'm afraid that the era of great food in New York is over!
Jean-Georges should be the next well-deserved restaurant take-down.
Stunningly mediocre food (or great ingredients poorly prepared) snotty service and of course, over-priced.
My girlfriend's wealthy mother was in town and told us to pick any restaurant -- she really wanted a taste of NYC's best and we were all very excited to get a reservation at Jean-Georges. But after the dinner was over and the check arrived we all looked at each other as if we had been had.
It seemed like an extravagant joke -- mediocre food, AND overpriced. Bloody rack of lamb, mushy fish, rubbery shrimp. It seemed as the food was made on autopilot that needed adjustment.
We all mumbled, "Okay, not bad," and, "interesting" and other weak compliments to save face but we ended up apologizing profusely to the mom for wasting an evening during her trip.
Please Mr. Wells, see for yourself. No restaurant at that level deserves bonus points for a celebrity chef, location or past reputation.
Stunningly mediocre food (or great ingredients poorly prepared) snotty service and of course, over-priced.
My girlfriend's wealthy mother was in town and told us to pick any restaurant -- she really wanted a taste of NYC's best and we were all very excited to get a reservation at Jean-Georges. But after the dinner was over and the check arrived we all looked at each other as if we had been had.
It seemed like an extravagant joke -- mediocre food, AND overpriced. Bloody rack of lamb, mushy fish, rubbery shrimp. It seemed as the food was made on autopilot that needed adjustment.
We all mumbled, "Okay, not bad," and, "interesting" and other weak compliments to save face but we ended up apologizing profusely to the mom for wasting an evening during her trip.
Please Mr. Wells, see for yourself. No restaurant at that level deserves bonus points for a celebrity chef, location or past reputation.
6
I completely agree with you! The first time I went to Jean-Georges a couple of years ago, I loved it. I went there recently, and the food was a joke. I would have enjoyed a better meal at Shake Shack. And that's just the food. The service was horrible and the servers all looked scared, stressed, and not happy to be there. Won't ever go there again.
4
We ate at Per Se in 2008 and left thinking the emperor wore no clothes. After spending half an hour waiting my turn to get a reservation, I got one for the rubes at 5:30. I can't remember the food, which I can at other restaurants, but I do strongly remember that the menu was very uninteresting. Do the 5:30 diners get a different menu from the 8:00 ones? Most memorable was that while we were eating dessert, we were given our bill. They wanted to get rid of us to make room for the more worthwhile diners. Needless to say, I would never eat there again and have told many of our experience.
11
While Mr. Wells did find some redeeming value in a few dishes, his description of the restaurant as a “grand, hermetic, self-regarding, ungenerous restaurant” leaves little doubt of his contempt for this sort of refined dining. Of course since I was not at the table I cannot speak to whether his critique is accurate or not however Mr. Wells has been very clear about his notions of what a dining experience should be. His demotion last year of Restaurant Daniel, his 1 star review of Le Cirque in 2012 as well as his glowing critique of Senor Frog just a few weeks ago speaks to a change in the paradigm of what constitutes a great restaurant experience. When a visit to an establishment is condensed into a numerical or ranking quotient there needs to be a reasonable way for readers to understand what constitutes or separates a 1 star restaurant from a 4 star experience. I applaud Mr. Wells’ appreciation for casual dining but anointing Shake Shack a chain burger stand with paper plates and plastic cups and no table service with a 1 star review seem to play havoc with the idea of restaurant rankings. Now Per Se has the same NY Times ranking as Ivan Ramen an Asian Noodle shop (which I love) that offers no dessert, virtually no wine or spirits program and service staff dressed in T-shirts.
13
Mr. Wells seems to have well captured our experience at the the sister restaurant, French Laundry, several years ago. The food was mediocre, the service less than that, and the bill totally out of touch with the quality of the food and service provided. Very disappointing and sure to keep us away from Mr. Keller's food venues.
2
What amazes me, along with this review's revelation about food and service, is that the COST of the meal has more than doubled at a time in our economy while other things have of course risen, this is disproportionate to everything else.
Who the heck is Keller kidding? has his rent risen this much? the cost of food certainly hasn't, nor have salaries gone up so insanely high either. So please someone, enlighten us all on how it's justifiable for his (arbitrary, really) increase in food. I believe insanity has struck.
Who the heck is Keller kidding? has his rent risen this much? the cost of food certainly hasn't, nor have salaries gone up so insanely high either. So please someone, enlighten us all on how it's justifiable for his (arbitrary, really) increase in food. I believe insanity has struck.
5
I never understood how anyone, now or in years past could rave about Per Se if it was compared with the great restaurants of Paris. It was and remains cold, distant and over-hyped. Where is the ambiance of Taillevent, the consistentcy of Guy Savoy or the inventiveness of Alain Ducasse. Spago Beverly Hills provides far better food, much more and personable service and you don't need to obtain a second mortgage to eat there versus another arrogant NYC establishment as Per Se is and has always been.
7
I've spent the last two hours reading the article and leisurely eating all comments. Lived in New York for many years, and the hordes of these over privileged (for the most part) shuttling themselves too these overpriced venues is hilarious. Believe it The great Thomas Keller for the most part is is hysterical about this, where has exceptional , pleasurable dining lost itself . I would love too see him close the doors and put something in the same spot, slap some people around . Per Se has ran it's course time for a change.
1
James, your prescription that Keller, who, as owner, must in some way be at the root of the problem here, slap some people around seems off.
People being slapped around, or shoved around, or being treated like servants is probably causal here.
People being slapped around, or shoved around, or being treated like servants is probably causal here.
Calling guests oveprivileged is a little much - Keller is (or was) one of the greats - and there are a lot of industry people who are interested not because of their silver spoon upbringing....
Brilliant writing. But, lamenting dispiriting yam dumplings, giving the stink eye to pickled carrots, peanuts, and dates being combined with Dorset cheese, and being offended about how much time a truffle is passed in front of you, is hard to read when a few sections earlier, you read about Syrians finding their long gone flock's favorite grass patch for grass soup to survive another day...Let's not get too indignant and worked up about Per Se slipping!(http://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/15/world/middleeast/madaya-syria.html)
4
Finally...someone who puts the whole ridiculousness of "fine dining" [i.e., pretentious food at sinful prices in snooty restaurants] in perspective. Granted, maybe even eating out for $50 a person is unconscionable in a world of starving refugees, but dinner for 2 at $3300 is NOT justifiable even if everything were perfect. That lifestyle is not about the food.....
1
As I was reading the review, it was like describing a complete different restaurant which I dined 4 times in 2015 and spent New Year’s Eve there. My experiences were all excellent and food/services were all consistent. One of our guests visiting from Brazil was left handed. After the 1st NYE course, all of his silverwares and glasses were immediately moved to accommodate his left hand. The servers, for sure, were very detail-oriented.
I have dined Jean Georges, Le Bernardin, Eleven Madison Park, Joël Robuchon, Daniel etc. I have no reservation to return to Per Se this year. The staff must know the reviewer. I have a hard time believing that the reviewer would serve badly. Therefore, this review should read with caution by factoring in the reviewer’s attitude and personality.
I have dined Jean Georges, Le Bernardin, Eleven Madison Park, Joël Robuchon, Daniel etc. I have no reservation to return to Per Se this year. The staff must know the reviewer. I have a hard time believing that the reviewer would serve badly. Therefore, this review should read with caution by factoring in the reviewer’s attitude and personality.
8
Was going to go there tonight but Guy's American Kitchen it is.
6
Having lived in China for many years, my family finds both stir-fried lettuce and mushroom broth to be pleasant. You were a little harsh to criticize these preparations IMO.
1
Were all the women servers off duty that night? Or are there none? Not a single female staff member in the dining room. Interesting.
3
Much like my experience at restaurants of this type. It is outrageous that there are few to no women on the floor. Time for an EEOC investigation?
1
On the bright side, Thomas Keller can be comforted by the fact that he and Guy Fieri have both been skewered by Wells. Sure, the restaurants are a few stars and a lot of ideology apart, but now they have something in common.
7
Thomas Keller has never been told "no" before and now it has happened. As a wise man once said "If you don't like change you'll like irrelevance even less." Think its time for a new challenge...
4
I have never seen so many reservations available for Per Se on OpenTable.
Wonder if it was that way on Tuesday afternoon....
Wonder if it was that way on Tuesday afternoon....
5
I totally enjoy the food and service at Per Se in 2009. Based on this damming review I decided to cancelled my March reservation.
5
I keep wondering if I have ever "hurled" my napkin to the floor in "a fit of disillusionment" over any meal? Let alone a meal that I was surely not picking up the tab?
10
"...the sommelier decided to argue, defending his choice instead of pouring something new..." This to me is the most telling part of the whole review; it shows how myopia and ego drive the staff, not in delivering an an experience commensurate with its cost. The first lesson a sommelier learns is that they are there to enhance the diner's experience..and one apparently forgotten by this amateur!
14
Small-fortune prices, smug waitstaff, adult patrons who toss their napkins on the floor indignantly then complain when another isn't placed on their laps, a critic who apparently wants a companion's truffle stuffed in his nose for a good whiff...
What a thoroughly unappetizing bunch all around. Rarely have I been happier that I wasn't born, or made, a foodie.
What a thoroughly unappetizing bunch all around. Rarely have I been happier that I wasn't born, or made, a foodie.
21
How right you are.
3
You have GOT to be kidding me. Please spend your $3000 where it can be useful in feeding people who cannot afford McDonald's, let alone Per Se.
7
Boy there are a lot of armchair critics and haters here. For those who were incensed with Mr. Wells's group paying $3,000 or his choice of words, I think they missed the point. First he gave the restaurant multiple chances to shine and it failed. Second, if the manager and servers have no clue what Mr. Wells looks like (I suppose the fake mustache and wig confused them, just kidding) so that they would spruce up their act, then double shame on them. Third, everyone who can work the internet can estimate the chomp on their finances prior to going there, so don't complain later. And last, Mr. Wells is paid to wine and dine as part of his job, and I, as a subscriber, have no problems with him doing his job. The point of this review was very effective: Mr. Keller clean up his act using much better French laundry soap.
26
exactly! Thank you. yes yes yes.
7
Was an insightful review. What I didn't get was the point of view of the cuisine. What type of food is this exactly? Nor is this the the first negative review floating around about this restaurant recently. What the reviewer is asking is does the restaurant deliver what it is promising at the exorbitant price it is charging? Is the diner happy afterward? We've all had that experience where you were so looking forward to a pricy or hot restaurant, but by the time the check arrives, are disappointed or even resentful of the service or food offered. Also, not everyone wants to sit through double-digit multiple courses like Loius XVI.
As disappointing as Per Se may be, it is no match for what has become of The French Laundry. Completely abysmal. Chef Keller has clearly walked away from his restaurants and abdicated any responsibility for maintaining quality or superior service.
I am so pleased that I experienced The French Laundry in its heyday, and had such a wonderful experience. I would not go there today if someone else was paying.
Recently, I had my second experience at Alinea in Chicago. While it lacked some of the magic of my first encounter, it was still extraordinary, if not a bit tired. However Chef Achatz recognized that ten years was a long run and closed Alinea to revamp and restyle its experience. That is what great chefs do. A lesson Chef Keller needs to learn.
I do hope Chef Keller is humiliated by the review enough to get back in the kitchen or shut down Per Se and The French Laundry for good.
I am so pleased that I experienced The French Laundry in its heyday, and had such a wonderful experience. I would not go there today if someone else was paying.
Recently, I had my second experience at Alinea in Chicago. While it lacked some of the magic of my first encounter, it was still extraordinary, if not a bit tired. However Chef Achatz recognized that ten years was a long run and closed Alinea to revamp and restyle its experience. That is what great chefs do. A lesson Chef Keller needs to learn.
I do hope Chef Keller is humiliated by the review enough to get back in the kitchen or shut down Per Se and The French Laundry for good.
13
The David and Goliath mentality seems to give permission to people who has never dined at either French Laundry or Per Se to pass judgment on the restaurants. Do you know the cost of ingredients that either restaurant spend in procuring? Do you know the investor agreement. Then how can comment as if you know how much rent is to have a restaurant property in NY. Is it wrong to want the best for your guests? Has anyone considered that a great deal of the cost is in support of the small farmers that provide the produce, dairy, and other ingredients? Is there something wrong with paying fair prices for meal, ingredients or services or are we so use to discounted deals and let that be our driving factors in making judgments? The writer seems to suggest that it is ok to compare $3000 meal for four with the best, freshest ingredients possible to that of a Wal-Mart budgeted family of four meal and elicit outrage as if they are of the same quality. Please stop being a rabble rouser, and trying to make a name because you are new. Positive criticism goes a long way in building the overall quality of the world.
7
I think you have missed the point. The the reviewer was dismayed by the disconnect between the pricing on the one hand and the quality of both food and service on the other. No rabble was in danger of being roused.
23
Hello Rabble NY
Since when a simple disconnect between food, service and price is worth the removal of 2 stars? You know as well as I do that to get those two stars initially was much harder than losing them. The rabble rousing portion is the indignant tone that suggests victimization.
Since when a simple disconnect between food, service and price is worth the removal of 2 stars? You know as well as I do that to get those two stars initially was much harder than losing them. The rabble rousing portion is the indignant tone that suggests victimization.
1
Four of us ate at the French Laundry a few years ago. We all ordered the multi-course tasting menu...With each course, four servers emerged from the kitchen, approached our table, one server standing behind each of the four diners at our table. With choreographed precision, they lowered each domed plate to our respective places and, on cue, lifted the domes off our plates. And there, in the center of each huge white plate, was the course: about two inches in diameter of the particular food that comprised the course: about one to two bites' worth. This ceremony recurred thirteen times. With each successive course, we were more hysterical: the food was fine, but so precious and over-the-top that it became comical. As one of our party said, "We've just spent the whole night eating miniature food!" After we departed, we all drove to Taylor's Refresher (now called Gott's Roadside), the hamburger stand in St. Helena to really eat; we were all hungry. Would I ever go back? NEVER. The pretentiousness, the ridiculously excessive cost, the overall experience delivered too much absurdity to make it desirable for a repeat. May I add, I can't remember a single thing we ate at the French Laundry; it all evaporated even as it was happening. But, God, those hamburgers we had later were great!
28
What a silly comment. I ate at Per Se, and despite the small size of each plate, my girlfriend and I were both absolutely stuffed by the end. We had to take home some of our dessert because we couldn't finish it. I certainly remember many of the dishes and wines I had that night... maybe you just weren't paying attention?
6
I agree with Rick Quantz. Dr. Lobotomy of Mill Valley was in over his head.
Having eaten at both French Laundry and Per Se (once each, not made of money) the experience provided was excellent, if you had the sense to recognize it.
Having eaten at both French Laundry and Per Se (once each, not made of money) the experience provided was excellent, if you had the sense to recognize it.
2
This is why I love the New York Times. These chefs create exquisite dining experience where every bite brings tears of joy to your eyes, then sadly morphs to bringing tears......when you have to pull out your wallet.
Thanks for calling out this Emperor.
Thanks for calling out this Emperor.
7
hey pete tell me ow you really feel???
I guess if you expect greatness and don't get it you are very disappointed. I have found that the patrons of fine dining have no clue and no class just the cash to spend on the meal. It sounds like the kitchen has adopted the same approach.
I guess if you expect greatness and don't get it you are very disappointed. I have found that the patrons of fine dining have no clue and no class just the cash to spend on the meal. It sounds like the kitchen has adopted the same approach.
2
With the talent and honesty of Mr. Wells, and the talent and honesty of Chef Keller (as anyone who has been under his employ will testify), this article is a simple reminder of how, from time to time, outside criticism rights a course that we may not have seen as off. Those dancing on a negative review, or misreading it as Mr. Wells' lack of respect for what Chef Keller has done, should re-read the article; better yet, consider working in a restaurant that manages to deliver for as many nights and weeks and years before having a professional make such observations. Good for Mr. Wells for being honest - better for Chef Keller for how he and his team will make corrections - and disappointing that so many are so quick to pass such shortsighted and self-righteous comments on a group of people that quite literally strive daily to do the best with what they have. At the end of the day, it is indeed all about Finesse - something far more evident in Chef Keller's behavior and Mr. Wells' writing, woefully, than many of the responses posted herein.
14
Well-said Brent.
I inherited a zero-star review restaurant and I can attest to exactly what you say, there are a lot of hard-working people at play in a restaurant, these reviews, unfortunately, are the best way industry knows how to keep us on course.
I inherited a zero-star review restaurant and I can attest to exactly what you say, there are a lot of hard-working people at play in a restaurant, these reviews, unfortunately, are the best way industry knows how to keep us on course.
Why even 2 stars? It sounds like the sort of hit or miss place that should be avoided at any price point....2 stars is defined in the postscript as "Very Good"
6
I can not even begin to imagine Thomas Keller's reaction to this review. I fear for the workers both BOH and FOH. Thursday is not going to be a great day. But what is worse is that when you disappoint the people that can routinely dine in such establishments, you run the risk of being negatively discussed in a circle of their friends that can kill a business which depends on this very small portion of the dining market. Wealthy or not, you are not going to drop that kind of dough for a lousy meal.
Look for Thomas Keller to return to Per Se for a considerable amount of time to get it straightened out. I trust he will.
Look for Thomas Keller to return to Per Se for a considerable amount of time to get it straightened out. I trust he will.
6
The slideshow was fascinating. The dining room is surprisingly unexceptional looking. It looks like the kind of dining room you find attached to a mid-level business hotel at an office park.
I dined at places like this years ago, on other people's money, but no longer. I miss neither the overly precious dishes nor the overall experience.
I dined at places like this years ago, on other people's money, but no longer. I miss neither the overly precious dishes nor the overall experience.
12
The waiter who moved the truffle dish away from a sniffing nose was doing his job hygienically and responsibly.
As for the napkin hurled to the floor in "disillusionment"? The perpetrator deserved not a new napkin but a demotion to the nursery for a dinner of toad – in – the – hole, with no pudding afterward.
As for the napkin hurled to the floor in "disillusionment"? The perpetrator deserved not a new napkin but a demotion to the nursery for a dinner of toad – in – the – hole, with no pudding afterward.
6
Agree about the sniffing. That reminded me of an usher at a major league baseball park who wanted to sniff my water to be sure it had no booze in it! (It did not) Yuk! I could not drink it after that...
As for the petulant napkin hurler, wasn't her act an insult and disturbance to other diners? I will say she should have been offered another napkin, though suspect the lack of an offer of a napkin might be waitstaff passive aggressive punishment, not lack of observation, of her bad behavior.
That said, I have never been, and never will be, at a restaurant with these prices. Looks like I might be missing mediocre food and misbehaving guests. I find enough of the latter on Greyhound but then I am not paying premium prices for what I know will be cattle service. And most fellow riders are quite nice!
As for the petulant napkin hurler, wasn't her act an insult and disturbance to other diners? I will say she should have been offered another napkin, though suspect the lack of an offer of a napkin might be waitstaff passive aggressive punishment, not lack of observation, of her bad behavior.
That said, I have never been, and never will be, at a restaurant with these prices. Looks like I might be missing mediocre food and misbehaving guests. I find enough of the latter on Greyhound but then I am not paying premium prices for what I know will be cattle service. And most fellow riders are quite nice!
3
$3,000 for one meal? We could feed this retired couple for 6 months on that amount. There is something wrong with the extravagance wasted on one meal when so many in this country struggle to survive. No wonder Bernie Sanders is so popular.
5
I vote we bring back the pillory and stocks for the tantruming napkin hurler. I'll throw the first egg.
7
Thank you for this review. It echoes every sentiment I had while dining at The French Laundry a year ago. It was one of the worst dining experiences of my life. The food was outdated and as you said, there wasn't anything daring...been there, done that flavor profiles. The service was okay but by no means exceptional, as it should have been. To top things off, our meal ended with acigarette smoke wafting through the window to accompany my donuts (really, donuts?! How circa 2000), and when we complained, we were told we were imagining it. As we were leaving, we walked through a plume of it outside, which is illegal. My husband and I were celebrating a very special occasion, and he was so disgusted that he went back to point all this out and complain. The manager told us to email and call the next day to talk to the GM and all attempts went ignored and we never received any apology. So, readers, if you're ever in Napa, skip this crap and go get a really good burger at Gott's.
12
Sorry for my lack of foodie sophistication and nothing against the author or anyone else, but most of the people around here could feed their families for three months or more on that obscene dinner bill.
Who in the world are you people?
Who in the world are you people?
10
This review caught my husband and me by total surprise. We dined at Per Se 3 days before this review was published and had the full tasting menu for lunch. For us, we had been eagerly anticipating the experience, and unlike Mr. Wells, enjoyed our time immensely. We even noted afterward that it was simply the best dining experience we had ever had. We live here in the city and have had a fair share of fine dining experiences, so it was not lightly that we declared this meal at the top of the list.
From the moment we arrived, we were greeted with very lovely staff who were attentive and courteous. Our main server was kind and all the staff were knowledgeable about where the ingredients were sourced and how it was prepared. The sommelier selected a wonderful glass of wine for us which, in the end, was on the house as a treat for us celebrating our anniversary. For those of us who haven't had the pleasure of visiting before, the oysters and pearls were divine and I would happily eat it again in a subsequent visit.
Mr. Wells' scathing review seems to reflect some irrational expectation which seems like it could only be met if the meal was $50 and not $325. For us, we thought the value of the meal reflected the effort put in by the chefs to create each dish. Where the real value was in the dessert course - 6 courses in total, plus treats to take home. What else should $325 buy you?
From the moment we arrived, we were greeted with very lovely staff who were attentive and courteous. Our main server was kind and all the staff were knowledgeable about where the ingredients were sourced and how it was prepared. The sommelier selected a wonderful glass of wine for us which, in the end, was on the house as a treat for us celebrating our anniversary. For those of us who haven't had the pleasure of visiting before, the oysters and pearls were divine and I would happily eat it again in a subsequent visit.
Mr. Wells' scathing review seems to reflect some irrational expectation which seems like it could only be met if the meal was $50 and not $325. For us, we thought the value of the meal reflected the effort put in by the chefs to create each dish. Where the real value was in the dessert course - 6 courses in total, plus treats to take home. What else should $325 buy you?
6
I have tried my share of over the top restaurants but not Per Se. What I gather from the review and some of the comments is that per Se like much of our "job creators" class consists of powerful owners wanting to make as much money as quickly as possible while delivering as little as possible to customers and paying as little as possible to workers, riding on their power and influence. Per Se will continue to throttle a dwindling list of wealthy snobs who dont know what to do with their money (try charity or -god for bid- pay taxes) plus out of town suckers, while investing nothing more. The owners will undoubtedly open a new shiny version of the same thing elsewhere, generate the buzz among the chosen few and conduct the same rip off again.
7
Restaurants such as these set impossibly high expectations.
These 'slips and stumbles' represent protocol execution defects -- errors in routines that imperfect, distractable humans are expected to perform day-after-day for years on end. What defect level should we expect? Six sigma?
Ask anyone who works in an acute-care setting how many errors in patient care protocols -- ranging from minor to life-threatening -- occur on a daily basis. Think about the lengths to which the aerospace industry goes to prevent human error on the flight deck.
To what extent is it reasonable to expect robotic hyper-vigilance -- in order to catch ever dropped napkin, to precisely arrange every piece of silverware?
Service standards in the restaurant setting may seem trivial compared with life-critical patient care or aerospace systems, but in all such systems the human actor is being evaluated/rewarded according to standards that may or may not be reasonable or sustainable.
People want service from ballet dancers but behave like industrial engineers conducting time-and-motion studies when it comes to evaluating performance.
These 'slips and stumbles' represent protocol execution defects -- errors in routines that imperfect, distractable humans are expected to perform day-after-day for years on end. What defect level should we expect? Six sigma?
Ask anyone who works in an acute-care setting how many errors in patient care protocols -- ranging from minor to life-threatening -- occur on a daily basis. Think about the lengths to which the aerospace industry goes to prevent human error on the flight deck.
To what extent is it reasonable to expect robotic hyper-vigilance -- in order to catch ever dropped napkin, to precisely arrange every piece of silverware?
Service standards in the restaurant setting may seem trivial compared with life-critical patient care or aerospace systems, but in all such systems the human actor is being evaluated/rewarded according to standards that may or may not be reasonable or sustainable.
People want service from ballet dancers but behave like industrial engineers conducting time-and-motion studies when it comes to evaluating performance.
4
I haven't seen this much "road(kill) rage" since the Christie lane closure. My only thought was, "keep this man away from Bernie Sanders" who likewise is not known to suffer rich fools gladly. And all because one of the plebs forgot who his betters were and dared to not accept the challenge of the offending napkin, hurled in his path like a gauntlet. Perhaps the waiter had listened to too many billionaire "we thank God that we are not like other men, poor--" blessings at these tables. So this is how the 1 percent lives. Most of us haven't seen this much decadence since the Wolf of Wall Street. We thought the whole thing was a fantasy. $3000 for four! Leaving aside the fact that Wells keeps going back to be reinsulted--but that any American has been allowed to get so rich as to be able to. He forgot that these wasteful dens of iniquity exist chiefly to show that you have joined the billionaire's club. Those of us who are but grubby millionaires have to make do with buffets, where we schlepp our caviar, lobster, and white truffle ourselves. How does one enjoy a rare white truffle between gritted teeth? In his reduced circumstances Keller needs to rename his kitchen The Napkin, to remind New Yorkers of the decadence that heralded the Sander's Era.
6
I am also repelled by this degree of obscene excess, but these restaurants exist, and the New York Times food section must cover them. That means going back several times. No responsible reviewer writes up a restaurant after only one visit. Don't blame Pete Wells. It doesn't sound like he had a very good time in any event.
11
Funny funny guy. If I was an owner of this joint, I'd feel certain body parts retracting into my body - that is, if I was a guy.
4
Seriously? Who on earth chooses to spend this much money on a thimble full of food? Those who have too much, that's who. Good heavens. Guess why Bernie Sanders is surging?
3
Ruth Reichl got a proportional amount of flak (this was before the Internet, after all) when she dropped Le Cirque from its lofty four-star status. Don't mind the screams of outrage; you keep callin' em as you see (and taste) 'em.
9
Snobbery at an impossible level. I can say this because I grow my own vegs, eat the best cuts I can buy just once a week, bake my own bread, have some great wines in my cave, look for the stinkiest cheese and cook a fabulous dinner for 2 on a Sunday for less than $150......and without the use of an eye glass and tweezers.
In the end one just knows that perfect ingredients and relentless simplicity are the only tools that count.
In the end one just knows that perfect ingredients and relentless simplicity are the only tools that count.
8
HI SF.
Allow me to offer you perspective. The reason that the cost of the meal is so great is precisely that people like you grow your own food and is obviously proud of it. Having worked at French Laundry, I can tell you the fair price paid to small farmer for their crops grown the right way with the right heirloom variety is much higher than the mass produced commodity produce. Because of people like Thomas Keller, there is preciously why there is a strong movement for small farms. Without the patrons to support the artist, the restaurants can't exists, and in terms, farmers can't survive. I do agree with your comment on perfect ingredients, and do considering rewarding those that do things the right way.
Allow me to offer you perspective. The reason that the cost of the meal is so great is precisely that people like you grow your own food and is obviously proud of it. Having worked at French Laundry, I can tell you the fair price paid to small farmer for their crops grown the right way with the right heirloom variety is much higher than the mass produced commodity produce. Because of people like Thomas Keller, there is preciously why there is a strong movement for small farms. Without the patrons to support the artist, the restaurants can't exists, and in terms, farmers can't survive. I do agree with your comment on perfect ingredients, and do considering rewarding those that do things the right way.
6
Wow. This is why I've been a NYTimes reader for 35+ years.
And also why I always prefer to cook at home than go out, no matter where I am in the world.
Over 20 years ago I graduated from a professional culinary school where we learned the ultimate non-intuitive mantra: a restaurant that provides extraordinary service and mediocre food will always succeed over the opposite.
And also why I always prefer to cook at home than go out, no matter where I am in the world.
Over 20 years ago I graduated from a professional culinary school where we learned the ultimate non-intuitive mantra: a restaurant that provides extraordinary service and mediocre food will always succeed over the opposite.
7
I had a great experience at Per Se recently. Check out La Liste.com - Pet Se is ranked number two in the world. Dan
2
...so my question is does anyone know just when per se went to automatic tip included ergo waitstaff on fixed hourly wages? Kinda curious about this newer paradigm in service. lmk pls tks
1
“…she had hurled it to the floor in a fit of disillusionment...”
How one longs for the days when pearls were merely clutched.
How one longs for the days when pearls were merely clutched.
13
We've lost our minds. In a city where a great hot dog may grant as much delight as the most expensive meal, it is impossible to justify the kind of pricing that infests our (supposedly) best restaurants. I've eaten in more than my share, and, unfortunately, like so much else in New York, where you eat and how much you've spent has become more important than the quality of what you eat.
4
I'd love to know what wines Mr. Wells had with that meal to jack up the price.
Mr. Wells: In your next review, please include them, so we have a more thorough idea of your tastes.
I've eaten at Per Se. But a decade ago, when they were still young, and expert at perfection, and I must also add, when I had discretionary income, which now, sadly, I do not.
Fine dining is a necessary part of a civilized society -- but this experience made me wince. Additionally, when I'm paying that much, I really don't want 9 microscopic courses selected for me by an arbitrary person in a kitchen. I want to choose what I'm eating, and have a portion I'm going to be able to savor. Not merely a bite or two...
Mr. Wells: In your next review, please include them, so we have a more thorough idea of your tastes.
I've eaten at Per Se. But a decade ago, when they were still young, and expert at perfection, and I must also add, when I had discretionary income, which now, sadly, I do not.
Fine dining is a necessary part of a civilized society -- but this experience made me wince. Additionally, when I'm paying that much, I really don't want 9 microscopic courses selected for me by an arbitrary person in a kitchen. I want to choose what I'm eating, and have a portion I'm going to be able to savor. Not merely a bite or two...
6
Why give it two stars then? Sounds like it deserved none.
3
As a native and current resident of Oregon, I've journeyed less-often to our Coast than to Yountville in the past 25 years ~ but never the French Laundry there. Reading this review affirms my "thank goodness" impressions . . .
1
Thank you Mr. Wells for your excellent and gutsy review. You have clearly and cleverly stated what some of us have known for a very long time: Mr. Keller has a warped view of the meaning of fine dining.
6
I ate at Per Se last year for the first time... the only dish I remember is the one that presented the bill at the end.
I ate at Le Bernardin 6 years ago (for much less money), and I can still taste some of the courses in my memory. That was the best meal I've ever had.
I ate at Le Bernardin 6 years ago (for much less money), and I can still taste some of the courses in my memory. That was the best meal I've ever had.
10
It's about time. I have dined at Per Se many many times since they opened and it used to be fantastic. I noticed the symptom of downfall in mid 2012, first with desserts. Somehow, their once mind blowing, sophisticated desserts were replaced by dull and boring, easy-to-make simple ones. Then rather mechanical service followed. Servers were smiling, yet not accommodating, even with a few blunders including omitting one of my dessert from an extended menu. Then I stopped going back. Although I disagree with Nakazawa receiving four stars (It's a good sushi shop but four stars? Really?) or Daniel demoted to three stars, but I do agree with this one.
7
I dined at Per Se last week and my experience was nothing CLOSE to what was written here. I have also dined at The French Laundry and while I do prefer the Napa Valley sibling, I don't recognize the Per Se being described in this "review" at all.
Are there better meals to be had? Of course, it's all up to one's preference and just in the city I prefer Le Bernardin. In the world, I prefer The Fat Duck, El Bulli (sadly now closed), and practically any Robuchon joint, whether in Macau, Vegas, Hong Kong or Paris.
But Per Se is a beast and a delicious one at that. You don't go to Per Se worrying about the cost of dinner. The cost of wine will dwarf that of the food by multiples anyway if you truly know how to enjoy yourself.
The gripes of this "reviewer" seem petty and uneducated and worst still, unhelpful. Does the two-star rating have anything to do with Per Se's recent second place ranking of best restaurants in the world by La Liste? Perhaps from a fit of ego this "reviewer" wishes to see how much he can bring down Per Se's lofty ranking in La Liste with his trashy "review"?
Or perhaps it's an attempt by this "reviewer" to lift himself from out of the admittedly long shadows of Mr. Bruni and Mr. Sifton by cartoonishly channeling Monsieur Anton Ego?
Not that it matters anyway, a review like this and even losing two New York Times stars won't leave even a small mark on the international reputation of Per Se. Losing a Michelin star? Well that's another matter entirely...
Are there better meals to be had? Of course, it's all up to one's preference and just in the city I prefer Le Bernardin. In the world, I prefer The Fat Duck, El Bulli (sadly now closed), and practically any Robuchon joint, whether in Macau, Vegas, Hong Kong or Paris.
But Per Se is a beast and a delicious one at that. You don't go to Per Se worrying about the cost of dinner. The cost of wine will dwarf that of the food by multiples anyway if you truly know how to enjoy yourself.
The gripes of this "reviewer" seem petty and uneducated and worst still, unhelpful. Does the two-star rating have anything to do with Per Se's recent second place ranking of best restaurants in the world by La Liste? Perhaps from a fit of ego this "reviewer" wishes to see how much he can bring down Per Se's lofty ranking in La Liste with his trashy "review"?
Or perhaps it's an attempt by this "reviewer" to lift himself from out of the admittedly long shadows of Mr. Bruni and Mr. Sifton by cartoonishly channeling Monsieur Anton Ego?
Not that it matters anyway, a review like this and even losing two New York Times stars won't leave even a small mark on the international reputation of Per Se. Losing a Michelin star? Well that's another matter entirely...
3
It is wishful thinking on your part to imagine that New York Times restaurant reviews don't matter. They matter a lot, particularly to "bucket list" trophy diners. Perhaps less to those on unlimited corporate expense accounts. As to the .1 percenters of New York, they have gone often enough to form their own judgments and will return or not as they wish.
5
If you "hurl" your napkin to the floor in a restaurant, maybe you don't deserve a new one.
But thanks for this honest review.
But thanks for this honest review.
3
The lady had dropped her napkin. -Saki
2
Bong water! Nice! Succinct comment that kind of ages Pet Wells. This review reestablished showed some of Well's old chops, that reviewing verve, which I have missed reading recently. Life, like restaurants, ebbs and flows, but I'm glad he's feeling better. Looking forward to next review,
1
Bong water? How can you award a restaurant two stars, but use such an outrageous -- but oh, hip -- metaphor like bong water? The issue here isn't Per Se. The issue is an inane writer in love with his own cleverness, grasping for click bait prose instead of giving a considered review. Oh for the days of Craig Claiborne, Mimi Sheraton, and Sam Sifton. Thomas Keller will fix his restaurant, It's time for the Times to give us a writer worth reading.
7
I must say you're absolutely right about Craig Claiborne.
1
Loved Craig Claiborne and treasure his cookbooks. He also caused a scandal by spending an oitrageou amount of money on a meal. Don't emembr the amount but I think it was in the thousands. This article reminded me of the one he wrote about his meal, although Inthink he enjoyed the dinner more than this writer.
Mimi Sheraton was a vicious beast in her biased reviews.
Meanwhile, back on planet earth, I always keep a stash of bananas on hand because several of my students aren't getting enough to eat . . .
P.S. At our school, if you throw your napkin on the floor you get a timeout.
P.S. At our school, if you throw your napkin on the floor you get a timeout.
12
Dang. And I was just thinking how great our Stouffers Grandma's chicken and rice bake casserole with little toasted baguettes were tonight, not to be outdone by my cup of Liptons caffeine free hot tea and a few light, fresh Lorna Doone shortbread cookies.. Bon Apetit.
5
Dear Mr. Wells,
I initially hesitated to comment on this review, however, I feel it's important to tell another side of this story. I am a former employee of Per Se who devoted the last three years of my life to this restaurant and all that it stands for. As such, I feel that much of your review is patently unfounded and that you did not take the time to fully consider the repercussions of what you wrote.
Per Se is expensive. There is no way around this. And the style of food may not be to everyone's liking. No way around this either. But to call the staff "oblivious sleepwalkers" is simply insulting. The staff regularly serves over 90 diners each night, each of whom enjoys at least twelve courses. Sending out over 1,000 impeccably assembled plates each night requires an immense amount of focus, determination and teamwork on behalf of both the kitchen and front of house staff. There is a reason that the words "Sense of Urgency" appear below each and every clock in the restaurant.
It is evident that you are no longer recognize the dedication of a truly talented staff and kitchen. You were unable to see the hours of hard work that went into the meal you so blithely wrote off as "mediocre." And this is where you fail as a critic. Your job is to expose great food and those who have the courage to create it, not to trivialize the dedication of so many hard working and committed employees, who will now inevitably suffer the consequences of your sensationalist review.
I initially hesitated to comment on this review, however, I feel it's important to tell another side of this story. I am a former employee of Per Se who devoted the last three years of my life to this restaurant and all that it stands for. As such, I feel that much of your review is patently unfounded and that you did not take the time to fully consider the repercussions of what you wrote.
Per Se is expensive. There is no way around this. And the style of food may not be to everyone's liking. No way around this either. But to call the staff "oblivious sleepwalkers" is simply insulting. The staff regularly serves over 90 diners each night, each of whom enjoys at least twelve courses. Sending out over 1,000 impeccably assembled plates each night requires an immense amount of focus, determination and teamwork on behalf of both the kitchen and front of house staff. There is a reason that the words "Sense of Urgency" appear below each and every clock in the restaurant.
It is evident that you are no longer recognize the dedication of a truly talented staff and kitchen. You were unable to see the hours of hard work that went into the meal you so blithely wrote off as "mediocre." And this is where you fail as a critic. Your job is to expose great food and those who have the courage to create it, not to trivialize the dedication of so many hard working and committed employees, who will now inevitably suffer the consequences of your sensationalist review.
6
there is no excuse for hustling for an extra $150 for pasta with a base meal cost of $350. None.
Who cares how impeccably a plate with two bites on it is assembled? How could that not be trivial? the interest is in how somehow people are convinced to pay for this.
Who cares how impeccably a plate with two bites on it is assembled? How could that not be trivial? the interest is in how somehow people are convinced to pay for this.
5
Welcome to the real world, Anonymous - the Times has to entice readers in order to produce revenue. I'd add that charging an extra $75 for a dollop of caviar (to name one example) strikes me as insulting to diners and trivializes the hard work that enabled them to save enough for a special occasion meal at Per Se. Those diners will inevitable suffer the consequences of the humiliation when the check arrives on its little dish.
8
And by the way, at the $750-per-person level I'd be inclined to dismiss "but I worked so hard" as an excuse for coming up short.
8
Restaurant reviews, be they for this esteemed publication or Yelp are a glimpse into what kind of diner the writer is. While this review certainly illustrates the flaws in fundamental execution (cold cheese and oatmeal = a poorly trained kitchen staff who does not eat what they prepare) at Per Se but it also clearly defines what kind of diner Mr. Wells and his dining companions are.
Dear lady, use your words and do not throw your napkin on the ground in a tantrum. You had a bad meal, you weren't called an unpublishable name. The napkin was treated like a throw away item, should it be replaced? Absolutely not. Nor should anyone care to.
If anyone, customer, friend, family, husband or dearly cherished kitty cat were to ask if they could smell my truffle, I would certainly not oblige. Your nose does not belong anywhere near food that will be served to other people.
I would caution Mr. Keller to get his management in order, his menu refined and his kitchen staff eating what it serves. Food costs and rent is obviously too high and the staff obviously resents every bit of the service day. These are fixable issues.
I would caution Mr. Wells to take a dining etiquette class, be a server for a year and lower his expectations regardless of the bill. Dining is an art and getting the best out of your interaction with your server never starts or ends with a napkin tossed onto the floor.
Dear lady, use your words and do not throw your napkin on the ground in a tantrum. You had a bad meal, you weren't called an unpublishable name. The napkin was treated like a throw away item, should it be replaced? Absolutely not. Nor should anyone care to.
If anyone, customer, friend, family, husband or dearly cherished kitty cat were to ask if they could smell my truffle, I would certainly not oblige. Your nose does not belong anywhere near food that will be served to other people.
I would caution Mr. Keller to get his management in order, his menu refined and his kitchen staff eating what it serves. Food costs and rent is obviously too high and the staff obviously resents every bit of the service day. These are fixable issues.
I would caution Mr. Wells to take a dining etiquette class, be a server for a year and lower his expectations regardless of the bill. Dining is an art and getting the best out of your interaction with your server never starts or ends with a napkin tossed onto the floor.
6
I've enjoyed the absurdity of both this review and the comments. But this one takes the cake: "Dining is an art."
I'm sorry, but no it isn't. Well OK, it is if your definition of "art" is "anything that I do," but when people use the word "art" they're generally talking about something of value or significance that requires uncommon creativity, knowledge or skill to produce. You're not an artist just because you were bored enough to take a class on filling your belly in an inoffensive manner.
I'm sorry, but no it isn't. Well OK, it is if your definition of "art" is "anything that I do," but when people use the word "art" they're generally talking about something of value or significance that requires uncommon creativity, knowledge or skill to produce. You're not an artist just because you were bored enough to take a class on filling your belly in an inoffensive manner.
4
Never trust a restaurant with a skinny pastry chef.
8
I want to hear tomorrow from someone who goes to Per Se tonight. The staff will probably be as en pointe as the Bolshoi and T. Keller will have undoubtedly flown in on private jet to man the kitchen......This could be the only night worth going!
8
With the other choices for terrific food and service in NYC, I refused to pay the price of Per Se and others like it who think that the meal should be so pricey to show their excellence. Well, excellence, if that is what it is, can come in less costly packages.
These are "show" dinners locations where the food becomes less important to the supposed status of the diners in the room. Go where they appreciate your patronage and have respect for their restaurant and care about your experience.
These are "show" dinners locations where the food becomes less important to the supposed status of the diners in the room. Go where they appreciate your patronage and have respect for their restaurant and care about your experience.
4
See-Veblen-Dept.: Pete Wells misses the point. Excellent food is available for far less than $750 a person; the point of eating at Per Se is to have been charged an obscene amount as a demonstration of one's class position. Manifestly, it is mainly a conspicuous consumption opportunity, not a gustatory one. Like eating peacock's tongues.
As for the bad service, I thought that part of the deal was that the waiters would show contempt, indicating that however wealthy you, the diner are, they are really used to servicing people far higher up the scale than you.
But what do I know? I don't think I've ever even had a $200-per-person dinner.
As for the bad service, I thought that part of the deal was that the waiters would show contempt, indicating that however wealthy you, the diner are, they are really used to servicing people far higher up the scale than you.
But what do I know? I don't think I've ever even had a $200-per-person dinner.
17
The stars are ridiculous. 0 stars = satisfactory and 1 star is good? So nothing is bad? On a grade scale you're basically saying 0 = C, 1 = B, 2 = A-, 3 = A, 4 = A+
This would certainly confuse a lot of people. By this scale everyone would enjoy a 1 star restaurant, and an owner would be proud of 1 star. But nobody reading it having 1 star would think that.
This would certainly confuse a lot of people. By this scale everyone would enjoy a 1 star restaurant, and an owner would be proud of 1 star. But nobody reading it having 1 star would think that.
3
I can't add anything to what's already been said in the nearly 900 comments so far, but I find it interesting that Thomas Keller hasn't tweeted anything since this review was published. Wonder what (if anything) his reply will be. I've only been to Per Se once, and that's probably the last time.
3
I get what Pete is saying regarding service. However, if I'm also a diner in the room, I simply do not want your nostrils near my plate, no matter how much you desire to smell the truffle as it's being shaved!
10
I enjoyed reading this review of a restaurant I can't possibly afford to go to; now I know that in the improbable event that I win Powerball tonight I should take my billions elsewhere.
What I don't understand, however, is a good chunk of the commentariat, who seem genuinely torn between enjoying seeing Chef Keller being taken down a notch and feeling the need to criticize Mr. Wells for reviewing it, or for the existence of restaurant critics or entrees that cost more than $20. There is nothing morally wrong with spending over $100 for a meal, or a concert, or a pair of shoes, or a hotel room. I am personally not in the position to spend that kind of money, but I have no problem with the fact that I could if I had it. The non-existence of $$$$ restaurants will not feed the hungry, and neither will your sense of smug superiority. If the very concept of restaurant reviews offend you than don't read them.
What I don't understand, however, is a good chunk of the commentariat, who seem genuinely torn between enjoying seeing Chef Keller being taken down a notch and feeling the need to criticize Mr. Wells for reviewing it, or for the existence of restaurant critics or entrees that cost more than $20. There is nothing morally wrong with spending over $100 for a meal, or a concert, or a pair of shoes, or a hotel room. I am personally not in the position to spend that kind of money, but I have no problem with the fact that I could if I had it. The non-existence of $$$$ restaurants will not feed the hungry, and neither will your sense of smug superiority. If the very concept of restaurant reviews offend you than don't read them.
13
One of the reasons to charge that much is that people who spend that much don't complain because they feel it would make them appear, stupid, unsophisticated, and cheap.
I ate at the French Laundry 4 times in it's first 5 years (often not paying myself.) The first meal, in the restaurant's first two months, was the best. But every meal was wonderful and filling, but I found strangely unsatisfying. What if there is something you want more than one bite of? Maybe it is time for Mr. Keller to get off the beach in Hawaii and back in the kitchen.
I ate at the French Laundry 4 times in it's first 5 years (often not paying myself.) The first meal, in the restaurant's first two months, was the best. But every meal was wonderful and filling, but I found strangely unsatisfying. What if there is something you want more than one bite of? Maybe it is time for Mr. Keller to get off the beach in Hawaii and back in the kitchen.
4
My husband and I ate at Per Se in September for our wedding anniversary. Overall the food was very good and the service excellent. However, we also found the lobster " intransigently chewy: gristle of the sea". I had the nerve to tell our server it was not good, and sent it back to the kitchen. (My husband nearly fell out of his chair when I did this. . . but knowing how much those 3 bites cost, I wasn't going to settle for lobster that was either not of good quality or just not prepared well.) The server was most gracious and took it back and replaced it with a very good tuna dish. But like the other reviewers we didn't come away feeling we had a great culinary experience---very good, but not great. In contrast last year for our anniversary we ate at Patrick O'Connell's Inn at Little Washington where the food and service were fabulous. Now that was a night of dining we'll never forget.
11
900 comments about a world I know nothing about. I often wonder if the real New Yorkers resent those of us "out here" chiming in on "their" site. But this is a story exclusively for New Yorkers. So, Bon Appetit -- I am enjoying reading about what irks you.
11
Not at all! One of the great things about the NYTimes site is the comments sections where people from all over add their voice.
And this "world" you know nothing about... there's not much to know. I used to eat at these places, with shareholders picking up the tab. They're all about the same: the food and wine is very good, the atmosphere is corporate, and the patrons are mostly there on business, with a few foodie industry types and some rich people mixed in. It is nice to eat at restaurants like Per Se, but if you never do, you're really not missing anything.
And this "world" you know nothing about... there's not much to know. I used to eat at these places, with shareholders picking up the tab. They're all about the same: the food and wine is very good, the atmosphere is corporate, and the patrons are mostly there on business, with a few foodie industry types and some rich people mixed in. It is nice to eat at restaurants like Per Se, but if you never do, you're really not missing anything.
4
Nothing gold can stay, it would seem—not even the Oysters and Pearls dish that amazed me when I had it in 2007 and then again a few years later. I feel lucky that I got to Per Se and a few spots like it during a time when these over-the-top restaurants were having a moment. Based on this review and personal experience, however, the moment has passed.
8
It goes beyond the food.
Is it a a PW - SS duel? Don' think so, given the five years span in reviewing.
When we were in Napa, French Laundry was closed for vacation so we ate at ad hoc. What a disappointment. May be TK was once a great chef and innovator, but too many accolades put someone at the top of pedestal which is than easy to slide. Such is the case for TK. He needs to get off his cloud and reinvent himself. Per Se is just T. Keller inspired. It's time to cook good food at reasonable prices and no one need to "brag that they dined at Per Se.
Five years apart in reviewing Per Se shows us that TK is not hands on and the place acts like a brand licensing with no supervision.
Per Se was on my to dine list, but reading an honest review, I have no longer the desire to spend good earned money for a mediocre meal and service.
New York is full of great dining experiences where a tuxedo is not a requirement.
Is it a a PW - SS duel? Don' think so, given the five years span in reviewing.
When we were in Napa, French Laundry was closed for vacation so we ate at ad hoc. What a disappointment. May be TK was once a great chef and innovator, but too many accolades put someone at the top of pedestal which is than easy to slide. Such is the case for TK. He needs to get off his cloud and reinvent himself. Per Se is just T. Keller inspired. It's time to cook good food at reasonable prices and no one need to "brag that they dined at Per Se.
Five years apart in reviewing Per Se shows us that TK is not hands on and the place acts like a brand licensing with no supervision.
Per Se was on my to dine list, but reading an honest review, I have no longer the desire to spend good earned money for a mediocre meal and service.
New York is full of great dining experiences where a tuxedo is not a requirement.
7
You know when a restaurant is excellent when you remember a dish or two or your entire dinner. And you crave a dish forever more. I have been to Per Se several times. The first time it was so bad they treated us (4 people) to dinner on the house. I do not remember a thing I ever ate there the 3 times I went. (I refused to go back). Dishes I remember from over the years dining in NYC: the scallops, poached halibut at Le Bernardin, as I will remember the most perfect meal I ever ate there. The fish sandwich at Pearl's (only at lunch), The perfectly seared foie gras, then mashed potatoes and roasted chicken at Montrachet (now closed), The seared sizzling hot mushrooms and octopus served on a hot stone at Nobu years ago, the crudo at Marea, the grapefruit dessert at Boulud Sud (did you know there is a cult devoted to this dessert?) the butterscotch pudding at The Mark. everything and anything at Via Carota, I crave just sitting there and eating their market fresh dishes after a long bike ride. AND.....the dish I crave most when I just want to feel cosseted with perfect warm service, a beautiful quiet room away from the hustle and bustle, Tocqueville on E 15 street for their (oh no mouth watering)...truffled creamy parmesan grits and sunny side up country egg with house cured veal bacon. this egg is perfection. I have no idea how they make it. it is not fried, it is just perfection. Seriously this place shines in every regard. Per Se should go study it.
10
How the mighty have fallen. This article is the epitome of .01% people problems. I remember going to the french laundry back in 2001 or so. All I could really remember is how many octogenarians there were there with dates that could be their grand-daughters. Sad in a way.
23
Having had a "so is that all there is?" experience at the French Laundry a dozen years ago, I have never felt the need to try Per Se. Now I'm glad. I think Alain Ducasse really raised the standard for top end Manhattan dining when he did the Essex House some years ago, and even though reviewers complained about the price, it was a uniquely great experience. But today we do have truly wonderful restaurants at not too outlandish prices--particularly Jean Georges, David Bouley and Gabriel Kreuther, in my view. I will save my pursuit of perfection for when I am in France at Paul Bocuse, Joel Robuchon, Alain Ducasse and Troisgros.
2
In the early 1990's my father - then in his 90's - and I would indulge ourselves at some of NY's finest restaurants. Our experiences ranged from good to spectacular. But mostly what I remember and what this review reminds me of is that those meals were not always about the restaurant. They were about shared love of food and family.
Sharing a meal is so intimate. And today, I honor my father's memory by eating my best meals in those small places - Curry Ya, Otafuku Medetai, By Chloe - that make home style, honest food.
Yum! And no snotty waiters.
Sharing a meal is so intimate. And today, I honor my father's memory by eating my best meals in those small places - Curry Ya, Otafuku Medetai, By Chloe - that make home style, honest food.
Yum! And no snotty waiters.
4
I've been to French Laundry a few times and my favorite local restaurant is run by a former Keller disciple that ran several of his eateries.
I think there are two problems in evidence. One is that a genius like Keller creates to impress and he's already a well accepted creative mastermind. So now its a little boring. Imagine as well the intimidation of being a chef working for him. No wonder they copy his old successes.
Second I think he's lost too much talent and the quality declines as a result. He doesn't have a lot of creative people trying to constantly produce great service and inventive product. He has the people that'll try to please him and do what he says.
Almost everyone jumps the shark after a while.
I think there are two problems in evidence. One is that a genius like Keller creates to impress and he's already a well accepted creative mastermind. So now its a little boring. Imagine as well the intimidation of being a chef working for him. No wonder they copy his old successes.
Second I think he's lost too much talent and the quality declines as a result. He doesn't have a lot of creative people trying to constantly produce great service and inventive product. He has the people that'll try to please him and do what he says.
Almost everyone jumps the shark after a while.
4
I would love to return to Per Se to work with the wait staff on 18th century manners and movement which informs the art of serving. I have learned so much about the "graceful hand gesture offering a gift" since establishing The New York Baroque Dance Company in 1976 and both my dancers and I would be happy to teach the new wait staff!
7
My experience with Jean Georges was similar: that it also slipped. I think these expensive 3 Michelin restaurants feel they can slide on their reputation and they become complacent. Thomas Keller is no longer able to keep up with quality control: too many restaurants to keep track of.
It would be nice to see the critics and customers rising in revolt instead of being wowed by the 3 stars. But my guess is that there won't be much motivation for restaurants to improve since they'll continue to have a 3-6 month waiting list and their 3 Michelin stars. People on expense accounts and wealthy tourists don't care how expensive it is. We dined at Per Se several years ago and it was perfect except for the sous vide chicken which was bland. We felt pretty guilty about spending such money but we found a way to rationalize it: "once in a lifetime..."special occasion " Yada Yada. ... Not happening again....
It would be nice to see the critics and customers rising in revolt instead of being wowed by the 3 stars. But my guess is that there won't be much motivation for restaurants to improve since they'll continue to have a 3-6 month waiting list and their 3 Michelin stars. People on expense accounts and wealthy tourists don't care how expensive it is. We dined at Per Se several years ago and it was perfect except for the sous vide chicken which was bland. We felt pretty guilty about spending such money but we found a way to rationalize it: "once in a lifetime..."special occasion " Yada Yada. ... Not happening again....
4
Well, the food was inconsistent, the service inconsistent.
For $2000, at least the entertainment value of the place would be strong. But, alas, it is not.
The 1% are just going to have to demand better for their pocket change.
The rest of us know a lot of great, local restaurants where we are served excellent food by excellent and attentive staff.
For $2000, at least the entertainment value of the place would be strong. But, alas, it is not.
The 1% are just going to have to demand better for their pocket change.
The rest of us know a lot of great, local restaurants where we are served excellent food by excellent and attentive staff.
4
We've all had meals at "special occasion" restaurants. For most people Per Se would qualify as such a venue. However there are many levels of special occasion places and Per Se would be at the extreme upper end of that scale. Expectations are naturally higher at these venues. Combine higher expectations with very high prices and what do you get? An experience that is hard to live up to. Add occasional below average service and sub-par dishes and the experience can be a disaster. Having worked in restaurants and the wine business for many years, as a diner I generally follow two rules: 1. Realistic expectations (ballerinas notwithstanding) and 2. Do not equate price with greatness. Great food does not mean spending hundreds or thousands of dollars. If you are seeking a "great experience," which implies more than just consumption of a delicious meal, prepare for occasional disappointments. We have far more fun finding delicious meals at much lower priced-venues. Those experiences are truly special.
3
Why is it that the more money you pay at a restaurant for each morsel of food, the less food you get? I've wondered this for a long time, and you seem to be the kind of person who could enlighten me.
1
Not exactly true though portions are kept small because of the large number of courses. The idea behind a "tasting menu" is the diner gets to experience many different things as opposed to just an appetizer, main and dessert.
My complaint during my first meal at The French Laundry was that the mains were too LARGE. Of course we ordered the extended "secret" menu but we simply could not finish the dishes halfway through the meal. It didn't help that the waitstaff was suitably alarmed and came to check on us and ask if everything was alright after every course from the middle to the end. My wife in particular had given up early while I tried to soldier on and eat at least half of each plate.
Don't get me wrong, the food was delicious, but don't attempt the extended menu unless you are truly starving.
If not Per Se, perhaps you should try a Kaiseki dinner. To me there are few meals on earth that can compare to one that is properly prepared. And yes, the courses are small, but boy are they good!
My complaint during my first meal at The French Laundry was that the mains were too LARGE. Of course we ordered the extended "secret" menu but we simply could not finish the dishes halfway through the meal. It didn't help that the waitstaff was suitably alarmed and came to check on us and ask if everything was alright after every course from the middle to the end. My wife in particular had given up early while I tried to soldier on and eat at least half of each plate.
Don't get me wrong, the food was delicious, but don't attempt the extended menu unless you are truly starving.
If not Per Se, perhaps you should try a Kaiseki dinner. To me there are few meals on earth that can compare to one that is properly prepared. And yes, the courses are small, but boy are they good!
1
It has been 13 years since I dined my one and only time at the French Laundry. The food and service were everything I imagined it would be. I think, if I recall correctly, the bill was about $600 for the 2 of us then, including wine. Since we live near Yountville, I have dined at Bouchon and Ad Hoc numerous times and always had a fine time. Ad Hoc is my preference. My husband and I love the informality and the "comfort food" style. I have all of Mr. Keller's books and his signature on the menu when my husband and I celebrated our anniversary at Ad Hoc a few years back. I am saddened to read this review. I hope he is able to regain his footing and his stars.
5
I had the same experience at the French Laundry last year. While the food was certainly good and the service excellent, the cost is outrageous. If I'm expected to pay, literally, 10 times the price of a very good restaurant, the experience (food, service, ambiance, etc.) should also be 10 times better. At best its twice as good. I prefer Emeril's. Less pretense and more quality for the money.
3
As a chef myself, I was solidly taught: a plate should contain no more than 5 components, allow the main ingredient to shine and enhance (not muddle) its own flavor(s), a garnish must compliment, be non-intrusive, and be fully edible, bacon wrapped anything is punishable by having your Victorinox (I prefer my pre-1940 Sabatiers) confiscated, and never produce food you wouldn't serve your mother.
Having dined at Per Se (3 times on someone else's tab, last time in 2015), I agree the food was mediocre at best. Flavors faded the moment they hit the palate. The decor was dated and wasn't sure what it wanted to be when it grew up. Service was indeed slow & non-attentive in each visit.
People should know it's theater & bragging rights they're really paying for at places like Per Se, not a palate heightened experience. Nothing more. The next day they'll have difficulty remembering not only what was on their plate but how it tasted.
Theater in the kitchen is a joke and, in brute honesty, nothing to be proud of. The days of self-absorbed chefs claiming to be the greatest thing since sliced bread are long gone. Stuff the ego into the locker & bring humility to the line. The food is and always will be the star - not the person who cooked it. A chef is simply a servant and s/he needs to remember that.
Having dined at Per Se (3 times on someone else's tab, last time in 2015), I agree the food was mediocre at best. Flavors faded the moment they hit the palate. The decor was dated and wasn't sure what it wanted to be when it grew up. Service was indeed slow & non-attentive in each visit.
People should know it's theater & bragging rights they're really paying for at places like Per Se, not a palate heightened experience. Nothing more. The next day they'll have difficulty remembering not only what was on their plate but how it tasted.
Theater in the kitchen is a joke and, in brute honesty, nothing to be proud of. The days of self-absorbed chefs claiming to be the greatest thing since sliced bread are long gone. Stuff the ego into the locker & bring humility to the line. The food is and always will be the star - not the person who cooked it. A chef is simply a servant and s/he needs to remember that.
20
How often have we dropped beaucoup bucks at "fine dining" establishments only to raid the refrigerator when we return home? No one does that after eating at Katz's deli. But restaurants like Per Se are not merely about food. Rather, they trade on people's primordial need to feel special, pampered and prestigious. In that way, they're no different from haute couture, or wines commanding prices bearing no rational relationship to the quality of the grape juice within the bottle, or smears on canvass selling for stupefying prices. People need restaurants like Per Se; they're states of mind more than purveyors of prettily-plated food. Per Se caters to those needs, and obviously does so exceedingly well, as its formidable reputation -- ignoring, for a moment, Pete Wells' column -- attests. The problems with Pete's review -- and I greatly admire his work -- is that he ignored the true purpose of Per Se, which is to make people feel special, affluent, exclusive, privileged, and momentarily snooty. If Per Se -- which has been around since 2004 -- has been able to achieve and retain its envied mystique for so long, it must be doing something very right. And I'd certainly go there -- even if it meant stopping at Katz's on the way home.
4
I'd rather feel snooty by walking by with my $1,000 safely in my pocket knowing I could eat there but have chosen to indulge at Katz instead and still go home with at least $900.
14
Even if money were no object, my preferences are for down-to-earth places. I cannot stand restaurants that serve small, artfully arranged servings in the center of large white plates -- as one commenter here said "precious little bundles of food". I've only gone to such places when someone else is paying and gets to make the choice. Give me home-grown substance, please, that I am willing to pay top dollar for (not $3,000 for four people, however). The Italians have the right idea: reasonable portions over three courses, plus desert, that allow the diner to leave satisfied and willing to return.
9
I usually am not so bolshie about reading how the 1% live, but reading this in the same week as we hear that children are starving to death in Syria, eating grass and salt water makes a $3000 dinner seem obscene. For those of you who can afford to be patrons of Per Se and other such restaurants, please make a charitable contribution instead and forgo one such meal.
31
From your lips to god's ears. If only!
Oh my god. From chef to critic, who on earth are you people? 3 grand for a dinner for four. I don't care if I ever earn a million dollars a year, it is socially, morally and ethically irresponsible to spend such money on eating food. What a bunch of entitled, spoiled brats -- from the chef, the critic and a majority of the commenters here. What an unbelievably precious society we live in. For 3 grand, I could live an entire month and pay every single one of my bills, from rent to groceries.
32
Thank you:) I was wondering if it was just me...
1
Perfectly said.
1
Had to do a double take to determine whether I was reading the NYT, or a Yelp review.
Honestly, he foursome in attendance for this meal sounds like a servers nightmare: she threw her napkin on the floor and they wouldn't pick it up!; we complained about a glass of red wine, and they didn't just do what we wanted!; when I asked to see the shaved truffles, they didn't let me smell my companions serving!; It was too darn expensive!
This really sounds like the petulant, self important prose one reads in social media. It's all about me! I have dined at both Per Se and The French Laundry, and this review, while humorous (bong water!), simply isn't reflective of my personal experience.
Honestly, he foursome in attendance for this meal sounds like a servers nightmare: she threw her napkin on the floor and they wouldn't pick it up!; we complained about a glass of red wine, and they didn't just do what we wanted!; when I asked to see the shaved truffles, they didn't let me smell my companions serving!; It was too darn expensive!
This really sounds like the petulant, self important prose one reads in social media. It's all about me! I have dined at both Per Se and The French Laundry, and this review, while humorous (bong water!), simply isn't reflective of my personal experience.
12
A one-line review might read "Per Se is the worst Japanese restaurant in Manhattan."
I doubt that Thomas Keller himself could articulate in a few sentences what sort of food is served there. It's utterly incoherent.
I doubt that Thomas Keller himself could articulate in a few sentences what sort of food is served there. It's utterly incoherent.
5
Looks like from this article that two stars is too high a rating.
Not meant to be funny like the old Mama Leone's review years ago, or the hammering that Guy Fieri took on opening his Times Square restaurant, but this is indeed a mighty oak falling in the forest - with some snickering from the bystanders.
Look out expense account hounds, you are now on watch. Although it would be fun to go to see how the restaurant reacts. With the stock market falling, this place could close in short order at those prices.
Not meant to be funny like the old Mama Leone's review years ago, or the hammering that Guy Fieri took on opening his Times Square restaurant, but this is indeed a mighty oak falling in the forest - with some snickering from the bystanders.
Look out expense account hounds, you are now on watch. Although it would be fun to go to see how the restaurant reacts. With the stock market falling, this place could close in short order at those prices.
6
The thing people forget is that the staff at places like this are humans too, and more than capable of breaking a plate or forgetting to pick up a napkin. If you go into something expecting perfection, you will be disappointed, because it doesn't exist. Keller isn't some egotistical maniac, he is a kind man who genuinely wants to bring his customers a wonderful, memorable experience. One reason the price is so high is that he sources the best materials from different purveyors all over the world to craft a beautiful meal. Maybe after their La Liste rating of #2 in the world they just needed someone to bring them back down to earth from their illusion of perfection and remind them why they are doing what they do.
7
well said
I applaud the Times calling out these sacred high end dining institutions when it is deserved. We had a similar experience last spring at Le Bernadin for dinner where after appetizers the service and kitchen completely broke down. $500-$600 for dinner for 2 just does not get you what it use to a some of these top end New York restaurants except perhaps Del Posto that has been flawless every time we go.
6
The next time you go, take me with you!
Years ago I had dinner with my wife at Per Se and a similar incident with a truffle happened.For some reason I was shown a black truffle, and as I tried to smell it,the waiter moved it rapidly out of my reach. I felt he was afraid I would lick it or something similar.I did not think much about it at the time, and the service in general was very good.My only problem was the price.The food was good,but not that good.Paradoxically the best part was the service.
4
Why do you (and Pete Wells) think you have the right to smell truffles for free? If I were the paying customer and some stranger wanted to smell my truffles, I would be disgusted. But then I am disgusted by the tradition of blowing out candles on a birthday cake which is then going to be shared by others.
The only reason for showing you a truffle in a restaurant is for you to smell it and not just to look at it.
2
Thank you for the review, that was one of our bucket list items, we can now erase it and find decent food with agreeable service elsewhere
5
A few months after a restaurant gets a "C" for cleanliness, it's the cleanest one around. Make your reservations for 6 months from now. Per Se will be better than ever.
7
Probably, but it's still going to be way overpriced for what will be provided. There is no such thing as food that's worth 10 times the price of "normal" food. This type of restaurant serves only the elite and the stupid. The elite because they can, the stupid because they think the elite know food better than they do! I can say that most (certainly not all) of the food we cook at home is better than any of the elite restaurants.
7
Years ago we ate at Charlie Trotter's in Chicago. After the meal (which we thought was not very good and expensive). Mr. Trotter asked how was our dinner? Having recently eaten at La Maison Troisgros in Lyon, I remarked that it almost as good as that restaurant. He literally pushed us out the door into the Chicago winter with our coats still draped over our arms.
8
I would do the same thing to you. That's called a back-handed compliment.
3
$300+ for a meal. That INSANE!!!! I don't give a care how "yummy" it is. To state that you spent that kind of money on a meal at a restaurant makes many of us SODH's!
5
My God! A haphazard dessert spoon set next to the water glass?
No wonder Per Se lost two stars.
No wonder Per Se lost two stars.
15
Thank you Pete Wells..
6
This is a very fair review. I was there in December, and neither the food nor the experience was particularly memorable. It wasn't terrible, but it wasn't exciting. It certainly doesn't make my top 20 for food in NYC; I'm not certain it makes my top 50. I wouldn't recommend the restaurant to a friend. I haven't told anyone I've gone unless someone specifically asks me because I just don't have great things to say.
6
Whoa!! If (When) Keller reads(read) this, he must have had cat fits!
If he ever got a review like this for his French Laundry, he'd probably leave the country.
Naf Saratoga CA
If he ever got a review like this for his French Laundry, he'd probably leave the country.
Naf Saratoga CA
3
A two star rating seems inflated in light of the severe and wide ranging criticism in the narrative.
6
Bet: Keller is rarely in residence. Right?
3
“TK doesn't cook there any more.”
As a franchise it's the best you can get...don't get me wrong, it's world class food but Mr Keller has 'left the building'.
I went to the French Laundry in 1999 and got to meet the great man after he cooked dinner with a special foie gras course cooked 4 ways for me (just because we asked).
...fast forward to the present day and it reminds me of all those high end Las Vegas restaurants... luxury ingredients, precisely cooked, perfectly presented...but lacking soul, passion and intensity.
As a franchise it's the best you can get...don't get me wrong, it's world class food but Mr Keller has 'left the building'.
I went to the French Laundry in 1999 and got to meet the great man after he cooked dinner with a special foie gras course cooked 4 ways for me (just because we asked).
...fast forward to the present day and it reminds me of all those high end Las Vegas restaurants... luxury ingredients, precisely cooked, perfectly presented...but lacking soul, passion and intensity.
11
Poor Mr. Wells! One wonders who paid that $3000 (presumably multiplied by three for three visits); was it the Times or Mr. Wells's own pocket? Does he consider that his $9000, if paid by the Times, is reflected in the cost of my subscription to the paper? Perhaps instead of dining at Per Se, he would have enjoyed more a dinner at Guy Fieri's American Kitchen & Bar in Times Square; at least it would have cost the Times (and the paper's readership) far less.
6
Mr. Wells has turned the NY Times Dining section into a tabloid, in my opinion. To try and pass Per Se off as being on the same level as Superiority Burger (a vegetarian, fast-food burger joint in the East Village - see his review), shows how little objectivity he can put into his reviews. Whatever botched system he is using to determine stars is inconsistent and nonsensical. This review is sensationalist journalism designed to sell a dying newspaper. If he wanted to give the restaurant a wake-up call and remove a star, I could see an argument for that. But his ill-formed thoughts in this review are the same as the ranting and raving of a lunatic Yelper. I also find it unsettling that this review comes shortly after him being confronted by the Altamarea group after his take-down of Vaucluse. Perhaps he is bitter that he was called out.
Mr. Wells, your journalism lacks all the integrity, passion and research of Bruni, Reichl and Greene. It is full of vindictive, political hissy-fits characteristic of a five-year old at Applebee's. You are destroying one of the most important Dining sections in the world. Your lack of research and fact-checking in this article is appalling and you have no place in the restaurant scene here. I certainly hope your days with the Times are numbered.
Mr. Wells, your journalism lacks all the integrity, passion and research of Bruni, Reichl and Greene. It is full of vindictive, political hissy-fits characteristic of a five-year old at Applebee's. You are destroying one of the most important Dining sections in the world. Your lack of research and fact-checking in this article is appalling and you have no place in the restaurant scene here. I certainly hope your days with the Times are numbered.
11
What kind of "research" was Wells supposed to do beyond eating at Per Se, which he obviously did several times?
17
Do you work at Per Se? Is your real name Thomas Keller? Because if neither of those things are true, I have no idea what you're so upset about. Wells writes honestly about what he honestly experiences. He probably saved a lot of people from having a disappointing experience at an expensive restaurant. That's a public service, in my view.
13
I seem to recall Bruni, Reichl and Greene being responsible for a few take-downs themselves. I think a good take-down, especially a funny one, is needed once in a while -- it often sends a needed message to the whole restaurant community (and too bad if you happen to be the restaurant that is the subject of that review; all the more reason to stay on your toes). I recall many memorable take-downs in the pages of the NY Times over the years (my favorite one having been the review of Regine's in the late 70s; can't remember who wrote that one).
I imagine Per Se will suffer as a result of this. It strikes me as a "bucket list" type of place with lots of out-of-towners and people celebrating special occasions there -- perhaps not as many regular locals (who I think are less influenced by a bad review) as some other places. Too bad.
I imagine Per Se will suffer as a result of this. It strikes me as a "bucket list" type of place with lots of out-of-towners and people celebrating special occasions there -- perhaps not as many regular locals (who I think are less influenced by a bad review) as some other places. Too bad.
4
Great review Mr. Wells! I've found that a number of meals in elite restaurants in my hometown, Charleston, SC have been similarly disappointing in the past 12-18 months. Even the most highly rated places in the city--FIG, McCrady's, Circa 1886, and the Charleston Grill, we've been beset by poorly executed dishes, sometimes spotty service, and occasional up-charges that are an insult.
I've attributed some of these issues to the fact that the Charleston's star chefs can't be everywhere at the various dining venues they're opening. And they often hand over their duties to younger executive chefs, who while talented, don't seem to maintain a consistently excellent dining experience--or even create a coherent and satisfying menu.
Lately we've been concentrating on discovering new ethnic restaurants as well as Charleston mainstays, not to mention cooking our own meals using the New York Times excellent recipe collection. As odd as it sounds, the more you cook, the better you get.
I've attributed some of these issues to the fact that the Charleston's star chefs can't be everywhere at the various dining venues they're opening. And they often hand over their duties to younger executive chefs, who while talented, don't seem to maintain a consistently excellent dining experience--or even create a coherent and satisfying menu.
Lately we've been concentrating on discovering new ethnic restaurants as well as Charleston mainstays, not to mention cooking our own meals using the New York Times excellent recipe collection. As odd as it sounds, the more you cook, the better you get.
8
I agree. THere's a lot to be said for doing (at least some of) your own cooking.
When I look back and recall some of the most memorable meals of my life, they tended not to be at restaurants requiring reservations 2 or 3 months ahead of time. Actually, I ve come to think that having to reserve that far ahead and jump through the hoops you have to jump through to get into some of these places is almost a recipe for disappointment.
While my most favorably memorable meals tend to be at "nice" restaurants, they weren't at la de da 4-star restaurants requiring reservations months in advance, and when I try to analyze what made them special I realize things like the company, the circumstances (the meal at the end of a grueling day or journey), or the sheer surprise of an unexpectedly good food, played a role.
When I look back and recall some of the most memorable meals of my life, they tended not to be at restaurants requiring reservations 2 or 3 months ahead of time. Actually, I ve come to think that having to reserve that far ahead and jump through the hoops you have to jump through to get into some of these places is almost a recipe for disappointment.
While my most favorably memorable meals tend to be at "nice" restaurants, they weren't at la de da 4-star restaurants requiring reservations months in advance, and when I try to analyze what made them special I realize things like the company, the circumstances (the meal at the end of a grueling day or journey), or the sheer surprise of an unexpectedly good food, played a role.
2
Am I the only one who thinks that you one should only pay so much for food?
11
No. I am no Bernie Sanders liberal, but 3k for one meal is obscene (and we have dined at some great restaurants here and in Europe). Similarly, no baseball/football player is worth 100 million, no painting worth that amount or more. What the sellers of these things/services realize is that there are people foolish enough to pay outrageous prices to show that they can.
14
An optional gratuity line after adding a full tip to the price? You are forced to write in $0. Or compelled to add even more of a tip.
That is obnoxious!
That is obnoxious!
17
I ran into that just today at Chez Panisse. I felt 17 percent was enough and left that line blank.
5
Brilliant review. I had a similar experience at Commis in Oakland a few years ago (although for an arguably reasonable price.) Left hungry, felt ripped off (if not abused), and never went back. Come to think of it, I can't remember the last time I had a truly enjoyable meal at a restaurant in the Michelin category. A Michelin star seems to be an excuse to raise prices and cut corners.
$3000 for a four person meal is beyond absurd, I don't care how good the ingredients are or how meticulously the dishes are prepared. I'd really like to believe Keller donates a bunch of that money to food bank charities.
$3000 for a four person meal is beyond absurd, I don't care how good the ingredients are or how meticulously the dishes are prepared. I'd really like to believe Keller donates a bunch of that money to food bank charities.
9
Well I will still give Per Se a try (provided I win the Powerball jackpot)
4
I have always preferred Dorsia to any other high end restaurant in NYC, the Sea Urchin Ceviche alone is worth the months long wait for reservations.
5
There are some great comments here but this is the best by far! Touché my friend. It's hip to be square!
It's about time that someone told the truth about this place. What a joke! The only people who go there are the ones with plenty of money and no taste. Thomas Keller is laughing all the way to the bank. Once again, nothing but greed!!!
12
Actually, when you think about it Per Se is a perfect choice for that building, which is filled with expensive condos owned by anonymous absentee foreign billionaires, many of whom are trying to launder their money in the NY real estate market.
5
This does not surprise my husband and myself. Years ago when The French Laundry opened we went for a special dinner. Our reservations were for 8:30. We were seated at 10:15. We were offered nothing (like a free beverage or ANYthing while we waited. We finished near 1AM. People who arrived after us placed their order before oures (2 tables of them). They lost our white wine. During our meal the service changed and our new waiter had no idea what we had ordered. It was a disaster. No tip except what was required. I am not at all surprised at Per Se.
8
Thank you thank you Mr Wells. I'm tired of the unctuous praise for precious little bundles of food. As long as top flight restaurants earn the right to charge outrageous prices for their tiny artistic creations, good, but too many mediocre chefs follow the trend and dupe patrons into thinking they experienced something special. I'll take nutrient dense meals with super fresh ingredients and finely balanced textures/flavors any day. Have you been to Chez Panisse lately, Mr Wells?
6
Alice Waters a true innovator and goddess of delicious, creative food. I personally have never found a restaurant that is better in taste and service.
5
The review gives enormous amusement. Striking writing suggestive of Pascal's perfection and the great French chef Vatel's imagination, as he confronted Louis XIV's palate. Merci beaucoup. Over four nights in your city to see theatre the end of October 2015, and dining on a Times Square accommodation petit dejeuner- and fitting in food before and after the plays, found some delightful and reasonable spots -the Corso cafe in the Paramount hotel, Da Rosina between 8th and 9th avenues, the scaloppine di vitello and the house red were excellent, Demarchelier -near the lady in gold within the Neue Gallerie, and rushing to the Vivian Beaumont for the king and I, the kitchen restaurant, not quite the name, for a clam cake, 2 glasses of vine, and tasty spinach , a bit steep at $74.00, and a burger at Aurore, about $19, but the best was the Lower East Sdie Tenement Museum's foods of the lower east side, which included a visit to the Essex market. The owners at Da Rosina were so kind- on a rainy night, taking my coat and properly storing it to drip dry-, the tour was a markedly memorable feast- we were just five enjoying tastes over a two hours walk. I am familiar with the French Laundry's chef, Mr. T.K. There is something -je ne sais pas- about the personalities of chefs. Vatel killed himself, as did Loiseau, the French chef whose name was known to everyone in his country. A word on the commentors- thank you!
4
Two years ago we went for our 20th anniversary. We were very excited and prepared for the cost, as we had been 3-4 times before. We asked at the beginning of the meal if they would do a wine pairing for the dinner. The captain told me that they did not do that anymore. I asked if they could do it for me, (being someone known to the house, as a hotel concierge), and he told us that he could. About midway through the meal we realized that the bottles were not leaving the table.... and it dawned on us what was going on. Also by this point we had 'hit the wall' with the food intake. After that the meal was fine, but unmemorable. We paid $2000.00 for that meal. Yes I could have asked what they would charge, but thought it would be gauche of me. My fault, I know. But that really turned me on the restaurant and we have not been back, nor will we go in the future. Even before this review, I had stopped recommending Per Se.
14
Philip: as you know, per se should have comp'd you. as a concierge i am sure you sent lots of business their way. most successful fine dining restaurants occasionally show this professional courtesy.
7
Reading this vivid description of an enormous and expensive disappointment deemed not worth "the time and money" it's hard to fathom how Per Se got two stars... was it for the "droopy strips" of salad, the service "with an air of menace," "gristle of the sea" lobster, the "slick of cold oatmeal," "fat pooled above the tapioca," or for the vile "mushroom bouillon as murky and appealing as bong water." What's the standard for the star ratings...
5
Well, as they say, other than that unfortunate incident at Ford's Theater, the play was pretty good.
5
I have eaten at Per Se and I've eaten at The French Laundry. The latter was a far better experience that I may go back for if feeling indulgent. I've have better experiences than either at many other establishments throughout the US without paying nearly the same price point. Paul Bocuse is Lyon remains my favorite where food was phenomenal, service beyond excellent and all for under $800 with a spectacular bottle of wine included. And that's not chump change.
2
At Le Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Paris, I had spectacular food and service for far less than the Per Se tab. And this was at the counter -- at 11:30 AM -- on a Friday -- ordering small plates and wine -- for three obvious tourists who had just arrived. The restaurant is in the basement of a department store, but that meal ranks as one of the top three all-time dining experiences of my life. Based on what Pete Well's had to say, you clearly aren't getting going to get your money's worth at Per Se.
1
mjan: I don't know if you were planning on that meal and/or expected it to be so satisfying, but isn't it wonderful when things turn out that way? One of my most memorable meals was at a then-hot restaurant in San Francisco. We couldn't get reservations, but a friend and I just decided to stop by on the spur of the moment on a very rainy night. We were welcomed with complimentary glasses of wine, asked to sit for a few moments while a table was readied, and then had a terrific meal.
1
It was not planned. First time in Paris on a sunny Spring day. My wife and sister were with me; and my sister, who was living in Germany, had read an article about the restaurant in the overseas NYT and suggested going there. Neither my sister nor my wife had any idea of the relative expense, otherwise my sister would likely have never made mention of it and my wife would have protested. I knew of both the restaurant and the cost, but figured it would be a splurge worth experiencing. It was worth every euro. And afterwards, when they became aware of the tab, my wife and sister agreed that the experience of that service and fabulous food were worth it. A memory of a lifetime.
I'm not from NYC and I've never been to Per Se, but I will say there is a disturbing trend in restaurants all over the country being created solely for the ego of the chef/owner. Where is the service? Where is the experience? I don't really care whether I pay $40 or $400 if the sum total of the experience is great I will come back.
This problem is endemic in San Francisco; I cannot find a decent restaurant I'd go back to to save my life. Fortunately they're so busy opening and closing I never have to worry about choice.
Stop catering to your ego and start focusing on what dining out really means, please.
This problem is endemic in San Francisco; I cannot find a decent restaurant I'd go back to to save my life. Fortunately they're so busy opening and closing I never have to worry about choice.
Stop catering to your ego and start focusing on what dining out really means, please.
5
Sean, try La Folie (Russian Hill). Amazing dishes and ingredients, plated with panache. Service is ok, not extraordinary. Well worth the price ($500/2 people/no alcohol).
2
Second that, Roland Passot is a great chef!
1. You don't go to Per Se for a "good deal."
2. Expecting to sniff a food that must me shared among diners is beyond disgusting.
3. The less than perfect experience is a legitimate tragedy. Very sad to hear it's gone downhill since I was there a few years ago.
2. Expecting to sniff a food that must me shared among diners is beyond disgusting.
3. The less than perfect experience is a legitimate tragedy. Very sad to hear it's gone downhill since I was there a few years ago.
5
Too bad this article is not a parody. Here is the menu I would start with:
Dining at ‘Le NSLP’, 4 meals, $9.84
I would begin with a ‘rumbling of belly’, evidently a popular dish, that appr. 48,000,000 Americans enjoy each day as it is the number of people who are considered “food insecure’ by the Dept. of Agriculture.
And, for the kids, they could have the child-sized ‘rumbling of belly’ – all 16,000,000 of the kids that live in poverty in the USA. Those ‘fortunate’ enough to dine at Le NSLP (National School Lunch Program) may skip the rumbling belly and partake in a mouth-watering meal prepared by special interests & food conglomerates. They need not toss their paper napkins to the ground – kids should consider themselves lucky they get a meal since they cannot vote (think Oliver Twist). The Mac n Cheese with an Apple and some canned off-green peas is heavenly. Lucky indeed!
NSLP, at a cost of appr. $2.46 per child, serves over 1,200 meals for $3,000.00. Those with a refined palate for compassion and empathy will taste the acidic notion of per-person meals of $750.00. That Thomas Keller may lose a Star is nothing compared to how we have allowed our child-poverty rate to rise from 15% in 2000 to over 21% under the Executive Chef, Republican Policy. While the rich dine upon the perks of inequality, 20 million children will participate in the NSLP program today. I could care less about a Keller dining experience and so should you - we have real problems with our food.
Dining at ‘Le NSLP’, 4 meals, $9.84
I would begin with a ‘rumbling of belly’, evidently a popular dish, that appr. 48,000,000 Americans enjoy each day as it is the number of people who are considered “food insecure’ by the Dept. of Agriculture.
And, for the kids, they could have the child-sized ‘rumbling of belly’ – all 16,000,000 of the kids that live in poverty in the USA. Those ‘fortunate’ enough to dine at Le NSLP (National School Lunch Program) may skip the rumbling belly and partake in a mouth-watering meal prepared by special interests & food conglomerates. They need not toss their paper napkins to the ground – kids should consider themselves lucky they get a meal since they cannot vote (think Oliver Twist). The Mac n Cheese with an Apple and some canned off-green peas is heavenly. Lucky indeed!
NSLP, at a cost of appr. $2.46 per child, serves over 1,200 meals for $3,000.00. Those with a refined palate for compassion and empathy will taste the acidic notion of per-person meals of $750.00. That Thomas Keller may lose a Star is nothing compared to how we have allowed our child-poverty rate to rise from 15% in 2000 to over 21% under the Executive Chef, Republican Policy. While the rich dine upon the perks of inequality, 20 million children will participate in the NSLP program today. I could care less about a Keller dining experience and so should you - we have real problems with our food.
23
Just a point of data...
For the price of the "grainy chestnut purée" and "bong water" bouillon to which Mr. Wells exquisitely turns his nose up, we could have provided a child with food, water, shelter, education, and safety for ten years.
Yes, yes, I know... I shouldn't take it so seriously. These reviews and this forum are a really mostly self-congratulatory mechanisms for which the affluent can pat themselves on the back for being able to afford such luxury and to tout their refined tastes and unreachable standards.
Instead, may I suggest spending your money on something deserving of congratulations?
Also, the NYTs should have at least a modicum of shame over this tripe. I will definitely remember this review when they restart their "Remember the Neediest" campaign next December.
For the price of the "grainy chestnut purée" and "bong water" bouillon to which Mr. Wells exquisitely turns his nose up, we could have provided a child with food, water, shelter, education, and safety for ten years.
Yes, yes, I know... I shouldn't take it so seriously. These reviews and this forum are a really mostly self-congratulatory mechanisms for which the affluent can pat themselves on the back for being able to afford such luxury and to tout their refined tastes and unreachable standards.
Instead, may I suggest spending your money on something deserving of congratulations?
Also, the NYTs should have at least a modicum of shame over this tripe. I will definitely remember this review when they restart their "Remember the Neediest" campaign next December.
14
I love that this restaurant exists and believe that Keller is a highly talented chef. His career has been a pursuit of excellence which he apparently typically achieves. If you are spending this kind of money you can obviously afford the luxury so for those that go in for this type of thing, fantastic! It is unfortunate that quality (and especially service) has drifted a bit but I am certain that after this review Keller will right the ship.
1
Finally someone to point out the obvious: Per Se hasn't been "Per Se" for at least a couple of years. Place is a total joke.
6
Erase, "Dine at Per Se" off of my bucket list. Replace it with, "Dine at Chick-Fil-A."
5
I come from a long line of great cooks and food lovers, so spending money on a good meal is something I like to indulge in once in a while, but $500??? I don't think so. And just reading the description of these meals made me run for the Maalox. My aunts in Italy could feed a whole town with $500 and would prepare a better, more tasty meal - and without the attitude.
14
Jerry Seinfeld gave the best restaurant review ever in his stand up bit titled "Sucks and Great." Check it on YouTube. Priceless.
One of the best lines:
"And then they bring the check, and it's always in a book...looks like a hogwarts book with leather curly-cues and it's embossed...it's the story of the check! Yeah, here's the real story...'Once upon a time you got ripped,' that's the whole story."
One of the best lines:
"And then they bring the check, and it's always in a book...looks like a hogwarts book with leather curly-cues and it's embossed...it's the story of the check! Yeah, here's the real story...'Once upon a time you got ripped,' that's the whole story."
6
This review reminded me of the Danish tale "The Emperor's New Clothes," with Pete Wells as the little child who blurts out the truth.
6
I have felt this way about Per Se since dining there six years ago and have been fending off my other half's desire to spend a birthday or Valentines Day there for the last two years, finally some ammunition!
A word of advice to Mr Keller though, If you can't resist dishes which attract supplements of 50 to 125 dollars then price a la carte. It annoys your guests less.
A word of advice to Mr Keller though, If you can't resist dishes which attract supplements of 50 to 125 dollars then price a la carte. It annoys your guests less.
9
With one out of five people in the world living on less than 1.25$ a day, for $3000, the NYT and Pete Wells could have effectively doubled the annual salaries of nearly 100 people, radically changing their life's trajectory, by skipping a single meal at Per Se. Indeed, if Pete Wells followed standard practice, he probably ate at Per Se at least three times, sending the bill for this single article to around $12,000.
While it is obvious that this kind of opulence is ill suited for a world in need, I would question the ethics of the NYT which allow that sort of money to be paid for a single restaurant review. With the season of "Neediest Cases"just behind this, I wonder what sort of courage it would take for the editorial board to say no more, and to donate that money to a neediest case?
While it is obvious that this kind of opulence is ill suited for a world in need, I would question the ethics of the NYT which allow that sort of money to be paid for a single restaurant review. With the season of "Neediest Cases"just behind this, I wonder what sort of courage it would take for the editorial board to say no more, and to donate that money to a neediest case?
10
Gee, you could do a lot for needy causes with the cost of your smartphone, internet service and NYT subscription, too, eh?
People don't buy newspaper subscriptions so their dollars can be donated to charities, they buy newspaper subscriptions to obtain information they cannot get elsewhere.
People don't buy newspaper subscriptions so their dollars can be donated to charities, they buy newspaper subscriptions to obtain information they cannot get elsewhere.
5
Ebbies.
I probably could, but as you correctly point out, the cost of phones, internet connections and newspaper subscriptions are for gaining information. $1200 (estimated) for a series of mediocre meals is perhaps beyond the definition of worthwhile information. What really do we learn from this expense, except that yet again the privileged elite of this society are deeply out of touch with the realities of life on the ground. I could learn this from the Republican debates as well, another possibly illegitimate waste of money.
I probably could, but as you correctly point out, the cost of phones, internet connections and newspaper subscriptions are for gaining information. $1200 (estimated) for a series of mediocre meals is perhaps beyond the definition of worthwhile information. What really do we learn from this expense, except that yet again the privileged elite of this society are deeply out of touch with the realities of life on the ground. I could learn this from the Republican debates as well, another possibly illegitimate waste of money.
I'm so glad I'd rather just read NYT recipes in the newspaper's delightfully redesigned food site and cook many of them myself. Paying this much for a meal would be a real stretch even if the food and service were perfect, so I'd rather just cook my own perfect food for myself at a perfect price, at home.
4
This review reminds me of my special occasion meal at the original French Laundry many years ago. I and my ex had ridden our bikes from Davis , Ca over the mountains to a charming hotel a reposts the street from this famous foodie spot. We were pretty tired from the ordeal and the complementary bottle of pretty decent red as supplied by the welcoming basket wasn't the smartest rehydration drink but nevertheless when we mistakenly entered from the wrong door , seeing we had dodged traffic crossing a major thoroughfare we were greeted by the most incongruous sight : the staff was eating a dominoes pizza! In the break room !! I knew we were in for trouble.
We went on to eat their usual fare of what I termed bite size Towers of Babel: somehow it was cutting edge to mix contradictions that I found basically way over my level of intellect.
But what do I really know. Well for real hard core nyc foodies my bragging rights include having my 7th birthday in 1957 at the legendary BoBo tearoom! If u know what I'm talking about you will get my point.
I would prefer to eat pretzels and watch "Julia and Julia " then spend four hours at such a place even when others are picking up the tab. And over the years I have been offered freebies there and I always are otherwise unavailable.
We went on to eat their usual fare of what I termed bite size Towers of Babel: somehow it was cutting edge to mix contradictions that I found basically way over my level of intellect.
But what do I really know. Well for real hard core nyc foodies my bragging rights include having my 7th birthday in 1957 at the legendary BoBo tearoom! If u know what I'm talking about you will get my point.
I would prefer to eat pretzels and watch "Julia and Julia " then spend four hours at such a place even when others are picking up the tab. And over the years I have been offered freebies there and I always are otherwise unavailable.
5
The photograph of "The salmon cornet with tartare and crème fraîche fitted into an ice cream cone" (slide 9 of 13) is disturbing.
9
I am flabbergasted by the deluge of commenters lambasting Mr. Wells for reviewing expensive, luxury establishments. We are all well aware that millions of people can't afford it. Millions of American can't afford to travel far afield for vacation, if they get any time off at all. Do these commenters imply that the Times should also do away with the Travel section? How about the Real Estate section? Ballet and opera are tickets are very expensive and often only subscribers seeing multiple shows are sitting in the best seats. Shall they dispense with those reviews as well? May I gently remind these commenters that while the New York Times is a world class newspaper read by millions across the globe, the first two words are "New York." It's first a newspaper for an exceptionally wealthy metropolitan area. Many of the citizens here have substantial budgets for luxury and leisure and are permitted to spend them in any way they wish. I sincerely wish this were true in a meaningful way for all.
A negative review of this magnitude will shake up more than Per Se and will likely birth efforts to improve in many of city's finest restaurants. This in turn will be good for diners, most of whom are like me and frequent these establishments rarely and for very special occasions.
A negative review of this magnitude will shake up more than Per Se and will likely birth efforts to improve in many of city's finest restaurants. This in turn will be good for diners, most of whom are like me and frequent these establishments rarely and for very special occasions.
31
For many of us -- even those who, like me, are affluent -- there is a line between luxury and obscenity. $3000 for four meals in a world of limited resources? That crosses my personal line. This is the dining equivalent of the infamous $6000 CEO shower curtain. Something about it offends the moral sensibilities.
11
Allison T. -
One loudly and obnoxiously celebrating extravagant excess should steel himself (or herself) to inevitable criticism. Living in New York certainly does not immunize us from that. In fact, I would posit that individuals lucky enough to live in the U.S. and especially in New York City have a duty to act with extraordinary reserve in not rubbing our economic and cultural privilege in the noses of those without.
Despite what many would argue (and in this comment section have argued), there does still exist between the East and Hudson Rivers decency, modesty, and class. We are not Kardashians and we should not present ourselves in that way to the world.
One loudly and obnoxiously celebrating extravagant excess should steel himself (or herself) to inevitable criticism. Living in New York certainly does not immunize us from that. In fact, I would posit that individuals lucky enough to live in the U.S. and especially in New York City have a duty to act with extraordinary reserve in not rubbing our economic and cultural privilege in the noses of those without.
Despite what many would argue (and in this comment section have argued), there does still exist between the East and Hudson Rivers decency, modesty, and class. We are not Kardashians and we should not present ourselves in that way to the world.
5
Well said.
Several people have opined that price plays no role in the stars awarded. Others weigh in on whether it should or it shouldn't.
Let's face it, reviewing a restaurant - look at the comments if you doubt it - is NOT A SCIENCE. It's even more subjective than reviewing books, plays or movies, i.m.o.
It's impossible to read this column without sensing that Per Se is held to a higher standard than many other restaurants PW has reviewed and will review on his rounds. I'd say "deservedly so." although I DO understand why some would suggest otherwise. The "key" says those stars aren't totally whimsical or capricious.
In short, it's not just "snarkiness" that focuses on a dropped napkin or a water glass. It simply MUST reflect the fact that a $600 meal all but demands that the restaurant "hit all the right notes" and definitely avoid clinkers.
So, yes, those stars DO get influenced by things like pricing. And when one is spending what's serious money for all but a few, the overall tone of the review has got to have - as in some movie I recollect - heads rolling at this point, ... since there will almost surely be some empty tables going forward.
Also, I'm with those who ask, "2 stars??" And I'll go the obvious step further and talk about "not burning bridges," PW being "in the industry/club," etc. Surely, this is among the most negative reviews PW has penned. Similar reviews (of lower visibility places) surely ended with a single star or none at all. What did he praise here??
Let's face it, reviewing a restaurant - look at the comments if you doubt it - is NOT A SCIENCE. It's even more subjective than reviewing books, plays or movies, i.m.o.
It's impossible to read this column without sensing that Per Se is held to a higher standard than many other restaurants PW has reviewed and will review on his rounds. I'd say "deservedly so." although I DO understand why some would suggest otherwise. The "key" says those stars aren't totally whimsical or capricious.
In short, it's not just "snarkiness" that focuses on a dropped napkin or a water glass. It simply MUST reflect the fact that a $600 meal all but demands that the restaurant "hit all the right notes" and definitely avoid clinkers.
So, yes, those stars DO get influenced by things like pricing. And when one is spending what's serious money for all but a few, the overall tone of the review has got to have - as in some movie I recollect - heads rolling at this point, ... since there will almost surely be some empty tables going forward.
Also, I'm with those who ask, "2 stars??" And I'll go the obvious step further and talk about "not burning bridges," PW being "in the industry/club," etc. Surely, this is among the most negative reviews PW has penned. Similar reviews (of lower visibility places) surely ended with a single star or none at all. What did he praise here??
2
Okay- we now know that Pete Wells is a more descriptive writer than your average Yelp reviewer. But the tone is the same as those crazy, wannabe restaurant reviewers on the site, who were slighted in some way during their meal and then proceed to rant about it. What on earth happened during this dinner to make it go so badly and the staff to be so unpleasant?
3
What, you aren't even going to mention the recent revelation that Per Se wasn't paying its servers fairly? Perhaps that's why service is sometimes mediocre.
13
Who's the woman who hurled her napkin to the floor? She sounds like tons of fun.
20
Yes - please do tell - in the interests of transparency and accountability.
5
This is brilliant, delightful writing.
15
Pete Wells is on a roll - and it's not sesame! The hundreds of reader comments prove he is earning his keep and bringing eyeballs to the site. His gifted writing and insight are thrilling to see. Reviewing collegiate style, drunken paradise, Senor Frog, he tells us "My most memorable spring break was whiled away in my room reading “The Sorrows of Young Werther” in German." Today, at the high end, one percent, snob infused Per Se, he describes the "lukewarm matsutake mushroom bouillon as murky and appealing as bong water." The juxtapositions are terrific.
Coming from a long line of cheap New England Yankees, I wouldn't go to Per Se even if I could afford it. Having access to the expense account experience of Pete Wells gets me as close as I need or want to be. One of the many reasons the New York Times is the best paper on the planet!
Coming from a long line of cheap New England Yankees, I wouldn't go to Per Se even if I could afford it. Having access to the expense account experience of Pete Wells gets me as close as I need or want to be. One of the many reasons the New York Times is the best paper on the planet!
11
Per Se desires to hit you in the Perse apparently.
9
Suggested bedtime reading for Mr. Keller: The French Laundry Cookbook.
3
I've heard some feedback from other serious food people over the last year corroborating Mr. Wells' impressions.
Knowing about Chef Keller's long history of monk-like perfectionism, this has me worried about him. Not his response to a bad review, but what led it.
Everyone being dismissive of a high end restaurant for reasons of elitism: you're missing the point. This kind of food is an art form, and there's no way to pull it off cheaply. It's problematic, but you're foolish to reject it outright.
Those being dismissive of Wells for being snotty and entitled ... he's mostly saying the restaurant isn't delivering what it promises very loudly. And what it charges for unapologetically. And what it has delivered for years.
I take issue with the sense of schadenfreude; I'd rather see some concern for what happened here. Keller's human. We're not a town mob from the dark ages. Let's not call for his head on a stake if he's facing serious problems right now.
Knowing about Chef Keller's long history of monk-like perfectionism, this has me worried about him. Not his response to a bad review, but what led it.
Everyone being dismissive of a high end restaurant for reasons of elitism: you're missing the point. This kind of food is an art form, and there's no way to pull it off cheaply. It's problematic, but you're foolish to reject it outright.
Those being dismissive of Wells for being snotty and entitled ... he's mostly saying the restaurant isn't delivering what it promises very loudly. And what it charges for unapologetically. And what it has delivered for years.
I take issue with the sense of schadenfreude; I'd rather see some concern for what happened here. Keller's human. We're not a town mob from the dark ages. Let's not call for his head on a stake if he's facing serious problems right now.
6
What I am seeing here is nothing other than an excuse to keep the riff-raff out. Looks to me like this is about a $300 dinner, which I might actually spend on a really special occasion. But then there are people out there who make ten times more than I do and don't want to see people like me around. Gives me am idea though. Everybody likes a McDonalds hamburger every now and then, but who wants to deal with the type of people who go there or work behind the counter. I think I will move to New York and open a franchise and sell $500 burgers for people with more money than taste.
3
memories of a more pleasant lunch at Paul Bocuse in Lyon. pricey, though well done to the extreme. except for the barnyard smelling mushroom soupy offering that could have ruined the entire meal. it was shared, and thankfully, most of us passed.
1
Pete Wells
send not out to ask for whom the truffle smells
it smells for he
if they would only let him to a reasonable degree.
send not out to ask for whom the truffle smells
it smells for he
if they would only let him to a reasonable degree.
2
Pardon me, could I get a side of fries with that decapitation?
9
The thinly veiled tone of narcissistic arrogance that has existed at Per Se since the start seems to have lost its veil in the downward trajectory of its plummeting fourth star.
5
When you talk about the "thinly veiled tone of narcissistic arrogance that has existed at Per Se since the start" are you talking about the management or the patrons?
5
A great review....thanks
The emperor has no clothes. There are so many great meals and dining experiences to be had in NYC for $50-100 per person (and often less), why subject yourself to this?
6
At those prices, perfection should be expected, and a napkin tossed on the floor in frustration doesn't seem out of line. With that said, I do concur with the others who think $750 per person for lunch is obscene. Google "City Meals on Wheels" the next time you contemplate spending that kind of dough, and send them the money instead. I'll buy you a 'shroomburger at Shake Shake.
4
This review balances well Mr. Wells' compliments and complaints.
I wish he would answer for - or revisit - his zero star review of the 21 Club in which he praised far more than he did in his take down of Per Se.
It makes the star system deeply arbitrary, especially since the 21 Club and Senor Frogs now share the same rating.
I wish he would answer for - or revisit - his zero star review of the 21 Club in which he praised far more than he did in his take down of Per Se.
It makes the star system deeply arbitrary, especially since the 21 Club and Senor Frogs now share the same rating.
2
I'd be interested to hear from people in the know if there is a precedent for such a scathing review and two star demotion of a restaurant at this level.
What happens now?
Can Per Se survive this? Does entire staff get fired? Is the chef's career ruined? Is the owner expected to publicly respond? Do they close for a month and reopen? Are they going to have to cut prices? Do they call in another ballerina? (Just joking about that last question. Sort of.)
What happens now?
Can Per Se survive this? Does entire staff get fired? Is the chef's career ruined? Is the owner expected to publicly respond? Do they close for a month and reopen? Are they going to have to cut prices? Do they call in another ballerina? (Just joking about that last question. Sort of.)
4
There are so many wonderful restaurants in NYC;Per Se does not appeal to me at all.....
2
Judging by the portion sizes I can only assume you dont dine there to be satiated. This is food for the inactive and curious with too much money.
4
I had a fantastic meal at Keller's restaurant Bouchon in the Venetian in Las Vegas, at a fraction of the price. Sorry to say Per Se is beyond my means. But my wife makes that same salmon tartare and crème fraîche at home, in a portion probably ten times larger. Let me know if you want to drop by. We'll give you a substantial discount.
3
About 12 years ago I had dinner at The French Laundry. It still remains among the best meals of my life. I'll never forget the glimpse into the kitchen as we were leaving, euphoric from the meal: the chefs' fluid grace, working in a state that combined zen and microsurgery. Excellence like that isn't easy to maintain, needless to say. Wells nails the one word that explains why restaurants lose their glow: ungenerous. A place can be cheap or expensive, but a lack of generosity, relative to the cost, is the writing on the wall.
5
I went to Per Se back in the day when it was just $150...after waiting three months for a reservation. Lots of theatre around the service, but the food was just fair. At the end of the day, there's just so much you can do with food and charging stratospheric prices doesn't really make it taste any better. Maybe worse, because the expectations are so high. Perhaps I'm just not a foodie, but I prefer a good, no nonsense restaurant with well prepared foods and a minimum of pretense. That was not Per Se.
56
I have been a cook for long time, I started learning from the best chef in my estimation I have ever seen: my mother, and that is a professional view. I spent 23yrs as a chef in the U.S. Navy. Now I have been a civilian cook for the past 12yrs. I have eaten at a few expensive places in my lifetime though never on the level of a Per Se. The problem with the industry as a whole, expensive as well as inexpensive is the total lack of training. I learned the value of training while serving in the military. Chef Keller as well as the rest of the industry need to remember what made foodservice great in the first place. No one trains these days and you can't stay sharp without constant practice.
1
"Perhaps I'm just not a foodie, butI prefer a good, no nonsense restaurant with well prepared foods and a minimum of pretense. That was not Per Se."
Given that attitude and approach to food, why in the world would you go to a place like Per Se?
Given that attitude and approach to food, why in the world would you go to a place like Per Se?
1
Shows what a good disguise will uncover. Thx, Pete Wells.
1
Really, two? I cannot imagine Per Se falling to two stars. That's insane and surely not possible. They can do two stars while sleepwalking.
My NYT online subscription is $180/year. The "bong water" line alone from this marvelous review has justified that expense for at least two years and clearly, is a vastly better value than a meal at Per Se. H.L. Mencken would be proud, Pete Wells. Bravo.
8
Silver lining: You can probably get a seat there now for Saturday night.
5
"Once, the table was set for dessert so haphazardly that my spoon ended up next to my water glass instead of my plate."
Boy, things really are tough all over.
Boy, things really are tough all over.
10
I may drive an old Toyota and live in a small house, but over the course of my lifetime I've saved up enough pennies to eat at a handful of the "top" restaurants in the world (here and abroad). The truly exceptional ones tended to be those that, while they had 2 or 3 star Michelin ratings, weren't preposterously expensive yet managed to create powerfully happy memories that have lasted a lifetime. The (sadly) long-departed Lutèce was one of those -- where every single item you put in your mouth blew your mind, where the service was unobtrusively perfect, and where the maître d' truly cared about your dining experience and made you feel special, even on a first visit.
I've found in my perambulations that there is much less of a correlation than one might think between the number of Michelin stars a restaurant has garnered and the likelihood the guest is going to have a flawless and spectacular dining experience. But when you do have such an experience, it's unforgettable -- and definitely worth it.
On the other hand, if you don't have such an experience, at least you can enjoy an exquisitely delicious review such as that of Pete Wells. Bravo!
I've found in my perambulations that there is much less of a correlation than one might think between the number of Michelin stars a restaurant has garnered and the likelihood the guest is going to have a flawless and spectacular dining experience. But when you do have such an experience, it's unforgettable -- and definitely worth it.
On the other hand, if you don't have such an experience, at least you can enjoy an exquisitely delicious review such as that of Pete Wells. Bravo!
4
When leaving Per Se and passing a homeless person, curled up tightly, trying to keep themselves and their pet beside them warm, does anyone stop to think of a better use of just even half of $325? Look in their eyes and tell them what you spent. Get a great meal for $100 and donate the rest.
5
I love how the same newspaper that leads the charge against the accumulation of wealth and the earnings gap between the top and everyone else has the gall to write complaining about the food and service at a poster child for excess. The editorial board should be banned from eating at fancy restaurants and buying expensive wine if they want to be credible.
3
A few years ago a friend and I traveled in Italy for a couple of weeks and in Florence had dinner at a Michelin two-star restaurant. Two women traveling alone, American, very, very rudimentary Italian - we were ripe for the taking.
However, we might as well have been royalty and the word used in Pete Wells' review - ungenerous - said it all for me about Per Se.
The Italian waiters kept slipping us little extras and Generous! is the word that comes to mind. I will always remember our 'Tuscan Tasting Menu' and the six wines that went with it.
I also have no recollection of what we paid and I know we did budget for this meal. Perhaps one only remembers what such a meal costs when it is so disappointing.
However, we might as well have been royalty and the word used in Pete Wells' review - ungenerous - said it all for me about Per Se.
The Italian waiters kept slipping us little extras and Generous! is the word that comes to mind. I will always remember our 'Tuscan Tasting Menu' and the six wines that went with it.
I also have no recollection of what we paid and I know we did budget for this meal. Perhaps one only remembers what such a meal costs when it is so disappointing.
3
Mr. Creosote still loves this place. And he doesn't have to ask twice for a bucket (or a napkin for that matter).
I've been watching the comments pile up with fascination - nearly 700 so far on a restaurant review. It's true, food and dining elicit great emotion. But income inequality is the subtext here I think. If the Times spends huge sums of money on dinners for its reviewers, so be it. Their serious reporting is extraordinary and a valuable service to readers around the world. As for regular diners at Per Se and the like, I only hope you spend some of your money to make the world a better place.
6
The critique here does not merit two stars. The description is clearly that of a poor to fair restaurant - one star. One can only assume that even Mr. Wells is a little intimidated by the reputation of Per Se and Thomas Keller. Arguing with the customer about the wine and refusing to change it? That wouldn't happen at Olive Garden.
6
Let's face it...Per Se is past it's prime and has not been able to re-invent itself like 11 Madison. But it sure had a good run!
1
It almost seems sacrilegious for me to even pose a negative question about anything Chef Keller does but after reading your review my question would be..."How did you give Per Se 2 stars"?
3
This sounds more like a zero-star review than a two-star. One can get a lovely view of the park without paying more than three hundred dollars for the privilege...
4
No matter how good the food and service is or isn't, I would never find out. Going to the Time Warner Center, a mall, to dine in a so-called four star restaurant, would never happen. Loved the French Laundry. Beautiful venue, great food and service. Ambience for me is key.
The attitude you describe pervades many high-end restaurants these days. Never at Gramercy Tavern, Colicchio and Sons, Il Posto. Love the whole dining experience and they aren't in a horrible mall.
The attitude you describe pervades many high-end restaurants these days. Never at Gramercy Tavern, Colicchio and Sons, Il Posto. Love the whole dining experience and they aren't in a horrible mall.
3
Um, a meal does not cost $3,000. I can't resist the thought that anyone fool enough to be parted with that kind of money probably is not the best judge of value in dining or entertainment.
4
Having eaten in great restaurants with both great food and service, that is something to be savored and remembered. I am into wine and have been for many years and when someone says they found a great $100 bottle of wine - my response is, "What did you expect?"
Restaurants that have stratospheric prices like Per Se that can't deliver deserve to hit the skids and try again.
Recently spent a week in New Orleans with a couple of Belgian foodies and it was an interesting experience. Commander's Palace was great as usual prompting my Belgian friends to say, "This is not America." Both food and service were great. The next night we tried Louisiana Bistro. Well I know some great wines under $5 a bottle and this little restaurant had a very small menu and great wines at exceedingly reasonable prices and the food preparation and presentation was fantastic.
When people go overboard about a great pricey wine/restaurant - what did they expect? Wish the NYT would review some of the great value wines and restaurants on occasion.
Restaurants that have stratospheric prices like Per Se that can't deliver deserve to hit the skids and try again.
Recently spent a week in New Orleans with a couple of Belgian foodies and it was an interesting experience. Commander's Palace was great as usual prompting my Belgian friends to say, "This is not America." Both food and service were great. The next night we tried Louisiana Bistro. Well I know some great wines under $5 a bottle and this little restaurant had a very small menu and great wines at exceedingly reasonable prices and the food preparation and presentation was fantastic.
When people go overboard about a great pricey wine/restaurant - what did they expect? Wish the NYT would review some of the great value wines and restaurants on occasion.
3
I realize I'm pegging myself as a fine-dining outsider, but I have to say it: This review is hysterically funny! Thank you!
6
Two Stars on the Circle
is Putin then dining with Merkle?
reducto absurdum
so will say Thomas who's only just heard 'em.
is Putin then dining with Merkle?
reducto absurdum
so will say Thomas who's only just heard 'em.
2
Terrible headline. This review describes not a few "stumbles," but aserious overall decline.
5
Was there last year with guests....thoroughly pretentious and unimpressive establishment. Save your money and go elsewhere.
6
With this review, why does it even get 2 stars?
3
My grandmother was right -- "Eat to live, not live to eat."
1
For may years I used to 'indulge' myself, on special occasions, with dinner at Lutece or LeCirque or some such place. I never really enjoyed the experience—everyone on both sides of the transaction seemed to be play acting. After many anxious and expensive evenings, I realized that I'm much happier enjoying a thick corned beef on rye served on a melmac plate in a cozy booth in a Route 1 diner. Peter Wells's review of Per Se is profoundly reassuring—I'm missing absolutely nothing.
7
What atrocious food porn. The sense of entitlement and gilded age spending is as revolting as the food sounds. The writer sounds like an effete snob. In a word - yuck!
5
If you think eating there makes you feel ripped off and unwelcome, try working there. It was the absolute worst employment experience I've ever had in my life. The captains treat new people like garbage, the back waiters are too stressed out to ever smile, and the people who work on your level hate you because they're terrified that you're going to do better than they are. Anyone who has solid confidence and an upbeat attitude is a clear threat and thus highly scrutinized by their peers. Managers are too busy basking in their own glory to really notice what's going on amongst co-workers, and just when you think it might all be worth it someday to move up and make mega-money- they hire a captain from the outside to the dismay of everyone because they need to fill a spot ASAP, and the bleeding back waiters who have been abused for years have to remain at their 60+ hours a week indentured servitude. I was not about to stick around and go through that. The money that new servers make is laughable compared to what Per Se charges for food and wine. And ponder this: service is included, at an hourly rate, for nearly all employees, regardless if a table spends $600 or $12,000 (yes, a saw a table spend $12,000), so who's making 20% of $12,000? It wasn't me, that was for sure.
310
There are states (and I thought New York was one of them) in which it is illegal for the management to keep the service charge. Perhaps by not breaking out the SC they are able to circumvent that law?
2
Based on your comment, it seems that a big part of the reason restaurants like this slip down in service and food is that they increasingly focus on money, rather than service and food...
1
Goes hand in hand with the food. I am glad you left. It is the beginning of the end.
1
Yes, I know there are those who can frequent these places and perhaps after the lottery tonight I'll make a reservation. In the end its just food and what you enjoy. The atmosphere, your regular choice, perhaps even your regular server who already knows you.
These 4 star places are indeed status symbols more than anything else. With a culinary school down the road its often more fun to watch the new kids on the block start their own new places and see where they end up . Its cheaper too, and I don't feel the need to wear a suit.
These 4 star places are indeed status symbols more than anything else. With a culinary school down the road its often more fun to watch the new kids on the block start their own new places and see where they end up . Its cheaper too, and I don't feel the need to wear a suit.
29
I enjoy the occasional read of restaurant reviews, for entertainment! Per Se isn't the kind I would go, but I appreciate the review nonetheless.
Like many others who won't admit, I also have a taste bud that's under-supported by my wallet. So I do try to hunt down restaurants that serves excellent food (ok, not just excellent but also creative food) but without outrageous price tag. Let's face it, those of us who has limited funds (however high that "limit" maybe in other people's eyes), one ultra expensive meal would mean a much longer interval before the next visit to an otherwise good restaurants (or several of such)!
What strikes me about this review is how closely it parallels my own experience in many otherwise fine restaurants. Namely, perfection is unattainable. The better ones come closer while the cheap ones don't even try. But I haven't been to one that's consistently perfect. I've spent a bit too much money in trying those "top tier" restaurants that promise (implicitly) perfect only to be disappointed. I learned my lesson now. Aim for excellency, but not perfection.
This is not a criticism of Peter Wells review. He held Per Se to its implied promise of perfection, and enlighten us to the fact it did not deliver. Not even close. (He gave them 3 chances)
And for those who complain about Mr. Wells reviewing (outrageously) expensive restaurants, you don't have to read it.
Like many others who won't admit, I also have a taste bud that's under-supported by my wallet. So I do try to hunt down restaurants that serves excellent food (ok, not just excellent but also creative food) but without outrageous price tag. Let's face it, those of us who has limited funds (however high that "limit" maybe in other people's eyes), one ultra expensive meal would mean a much longer interval before the next visit to an otherwise good restaurants (or several of such)!
What strikes me about this review is how closely it parallels my own experience in many otherwise fine restaurants. Namely, perfection is unattainable. The better ones come closer while the cheap ones don't even try. But I haven't been to one that's consistently perfect. I've spent a bit too much money in trying those "top tier" restaurants that promise (implicitly) perfect only to be disappointed. I learned my lesson now. Aim for excellency, but not perfection.
This is not a criticism of Peter Wells review. He held Per Se to its implied promise of perfection, and enlighten us to the fact it did not deliver. Not even close. (He gave them 3 chances)
And for those who complain about Mr. Wells reviewing (outrageously) expensive restaurants, you don't have to read it.
7
When standards slip over time, it is because of an absentee landlord, the celebrity chef whose name is attached to the restaurant but whose presence is not.
It is possible to have a stable of 4 star restaurants around the world, as other top chefs have maintained, but it requires unflagging attention from the chef.
No doubt Michelin will follow with a similar downgrade of Per Se. The solution for Thomas Keller is to shut down Per Se and start anew: new concept, new chef de cuisine, new maitre d'hôtel.
If not, it will be another 5 years for the NYT to review Per Se and clients won't wait that long for a redemption.
It is possible to have a stable of 4 star restaurants around the world, as other top chefs have maintained, but it requires unflagging attention from the chef.
No doubt Michelin will follow with a similar downgrade of Per Se. The solution for Thomas Keller is to shut down Per Se and start anew: new concept, new chef de cuisine, new maitre d'hôtel.
If not, it will be another 5 years for the NYT to review Per Se and clients won't wait that long for a redemption.
4
I visited Per Se last year and in addition to the points made by the writer, I would like to make one more. We were seated near a window and were shocked to note that the window panes were dirty- would never happen in Portugal where you can get a much better experience at a two star restaurant for a quarter of the price
78
Pete Wells
ask not for whom the smell tells
employment conditions
possibly related to a certain lack of inhibitions.
ask not for whom the smell tells
employment conditions
possibly related to a certain lack of inhibitions.
1
This article makes me want to start slapping people. The owner of that $3000/meal restaurant for a restaurant that charges $3000/meal. SLAP! The lady who dropped her napkin as an act of defiance... really? that's how you show defiance. SLAP! that's how I show my defiance. Rubbing my hands, warming them up, I feel a big one coming SLAP! A big fat one to the author for frequenting such a place and having the audacity to write about it.
5
I'm trying to figure out what, exactly, those who willingly pay $3000 for a meal for four think they're buying. No possible combination of food quality, ambiance and service is worth $750 a head, regardless of a restaurant's star count. Per Se patrons pay an enormous premium for ... what? The chance to be chumps?
7
This review sums up my experience at Per Se perfectly. Listless service, uninspired environment. 'Ungenerous' is the best way to describe it. The restaurant is like $1000 sweat pants. It was, by far, the worst experience I had in a restaurant in NY. This is partially based on expectations and price but it in the end it was unremarkable.
Thank you Mr Wells!
Thank you Mr Wells!
9
$3,000 for a dinner for four? Gristle of the sea? One can understand the distain the staff might have for the patrons.
7
More meaningless decadence from the Times. $3,000.00 for dinner? Give the money to charity and shut up already!
5
Oh my gosh, the rich are having a bad dining experience. How awful for them! Meanwhile our wars drag on, young men and women die fighting them; the poor become poorer; the middle class struggles; the earth melts while the Republican controlled Congress denies climate change. NY Times grow up! Who cares about this restaurant or the patrons who frequent it.
6
So sad that the epicureans were disappointed with their meal. After reading this review I am inspired to revive the Bolshevik Party.
10
Numerous commenters are misreading certain parts of this article.
Mr. Wells and his party did not spend half their $3,000 bill on wine. As the article clearly states, there are numerous upcharges at Per Se for things like fois gras and truffles, things that can easily double the base charge.
And nothing in the article says that Mr. Wells paid $3,000 each time he visited Per Se. For all that is said, he did that only once, to see what the maximum experience is like and whether it is worth it.
Mr. Wells and his party did not spend half their $3,000 bill on wine. As the article clearly states, there are numerous upcharges at Per Se for things like fois gras and truffles, things that can easily double the base charge.
And nothing in the article says that Mr. Wells paid $3,000 each time he visited Per Se. For all that is said, he did that only once, to see what the maximum experience is like and whether it is worth it.
7
Legalize it! The bong water comment- approved by the editors- and the grossness it conjures... an all-star pithy remark that I will stay with me forever. Was it worth spending 3G's of the NYT's money? I'd love to find out what Nicholas Kristoff has to say about that.
3
Bravo, M. Wells. I've had many dinners like this at jumped-the-shark, overblown Monuments to Great Dining. Which makes the two solo dinners I had at Eleven Madison Park six years ago that much more memorable. Every course was exciting, surprising, and flat-out delicious. I even remember sharing photographs of my Swiss Mountain Dogs with Chef Humm, a Zurich native, and chatting with half the staff. What a great place it was. And with fabulous wine, under $250 for a three-hour dinner.
5
Very entertaining reading. I'm now diving into your other reviews
3
All I can say is this. At a time when so many neighborhoods are losing their beloved eateries because of a relentless increase in rents, and people like me--retired seniors, working families, struggling New Yorkers--find it almost impossible to eat out, this review is almost insulting as the 1%'s dismissal of the 99%. To whom was it directed? How many people van comment on a $3000 dinner?
74
814 so far...
3
I don't see that this is any more "insulting" than real estate articles on $22 million penthouses, luxury car reviews, high fashion ads and articles.... These are all things that most of us can't afford, but that many of us enjoy reading about. I view this review as a great favor for people (like me) with less money: We might think of saving an extravagant sum for a once-in-a-lifetime experience on a major anniversary. Now, maybe we will realize the significant risk of sitting in a crowd of poseurs, while we receive mediocre service and food we are not allowed to choose and that doesn't live up to its billing. I haven't eaten there, and now I definitely won't, thanks to this review. In any case, there are lots of very rich people in the world, and they will spend money on extravagant luxuries. Restaurants like this are not competition for your neighborhood eateries, so where's the injustice? As to how many people can comment on a $3,000 dinner: 925 and counting!
2
I could never afford to eat at Per Se, but I can afford to read wonderfully written reviews like this one.
1
Pete Wells is describing what happens when the chef/owner no longer lives over the restaurant as did Soltner over Lutece.
The 'bong water' analogy made me spew my coffee! Funny!
The 'bong water' analogy made me spew my coffee! Funny!
5
Any restaurant that charges $325 for a meal better be prepared to back it up with flawless service. New York is a tough town and some of my all-time favorite dinners have cost less than $50.
112
Can I ask where these favorite $50 have come from?
1
Bravo! Aside from the snob value of overpaying for your food, there are so many restaurants in NYC that serve excellent food, with excellent service, and where you don't have to mortgage the house to pay for a meal.
1
A shame. Per Se was the best of the 3 star Michelin's a few years back in my experience (Daniel was the disappointment, and there was a 3 star in Greenwich, CT = the worst). Things change...
Generally good service in NY retaurants is hard to find. Paris 1-2 stars have equal if not better service (and food) and there are many.
Generally good service in NY retaurants is hard to find. Paris 1-2 stars have equal if not better service (and food) and there are many.
2
Pete Wells has won awards for his writing, so clearly he's a good writer, but I still feel compelled to express my admiration for his ability to draw such a clear picture in words that I, as the reader, felt transported to the moment with him and could almost taste the food. Brilliant writing...even if I do feel a bit bad for what comes across as a brutal takedown of a famed establishment.
87
Do people who spend this much for dining object to a decent mimimum agee?
Just wondering.
Just wondering.
3
The comparison to bong water was my favorite sentence in the New York Times in as long as I can remember. Thanks, Mr. Wells.
4
I love this article and I agreed with the writer. I didn't like the service at Per Se. We finished our lunch and I was still enjoying my coffee when the server asked if we wanted to see the kitchen. I thought it was a nice gesture so we said yes. But then we were told that we need to take all of our belongings with us (strange). After we took a 10 seconds tour in the kitchen, the sever led us through another door out of the kitchen - it was the exit to the restaurant. I felt defrauded because they made excuses such as "showing you the kitchen" to cover how to actually want to kick you out, even after we each paid $300 for lunch. And I haven't finished the coffee that I paid for!
222
They have to turn the tables. Obviously there was another party that needed to be seated. How long did you occupy the table? It happened to me at Charlie Fritters. We had really stayed quite a while.
6
I got the same "kitchen tour" treatment at the Commander's Palace in New Orleans - after I'd had a little "accident" involving my bowels (which they must have noticed) toward the end of the meal.
You were kicked out, Zoe. A bit of acquired wisdom: finish your coffee before you pay the check!
You were kicked out, Zoe. A bit of acquired wisdom: finish your coffee before you pay the check!
1
Poor Pete Wells. Per Se must not have bowed and scraped enough at the NYT reviewer. He, after all, has so much power, everyone should be obsequious. We have eaten at Per Se dozens of times, since its inception. It has been an exceptional evening each time. Thomas Keller is a genius, and the food reflects this. If he removed Oysters & Pearls from the menu, many would be disappointed. Plus a $3,000 check for 4 reflects a very expensive wine choice, which he fails to mention. Two stars, with a petulant, insulting review? Doesn't even make sense. Maybe it's time for Pete Wells to retire and eat at local diners.
This might be one of my all-time favorite restaurant reviews. Brutal honesty, articulated with such colorful, vivid flair. I was surprised to catch my self laughing out loud at times. TK and Per Se set a high bar for itself. But it's hard to get what you pay for with those prices, and Mr. Wells rightly takes the restaurant to task for taking its four-star reputation for granted.
129
It is highly ironic that the people who helped establishments like this become what they are, places to fleece you with a laugh all the way to the bank, have finally decided that perhaps they were wrong. Sorry to disagree with Mr. Beeman bellow but a good friend just had a similar experience at French Laundry, arrogant service, a menu based on old glory and an attitude of if you are stupid enough to pay for this then we have the right to clean you out.
2
Tell the arrogant sommelier culture to dial it down. Even if you are the smartest people in the room, be gracious and give the guests what they want; it's their experience.
6
Joints llke this are out of my league.
-They put his spoon next to his water glass.
-The waiter picked up the napkin on the floor but didn't ask who dropped it.
-They didn't fill empty wine glasses without being asked.
Me, I'm more interested in what the food tastes like. I can always ask for more wine or another napkin while enjoying a good meal if I'm smart enough to know where to eat. And save about a thousand bucks.
-They put his spoon next to his water glass.
-The waiter picked up the napkin on the floor but didn't ask who dropped it.
-They didn't fill empty wine glasses without being asked.
Me, I'm more interested in what the food tastes like. I can always ask for more wine or another napkin while enjoying a good meal if I'm smart enough to know where to eat. And save about a thousand bucks.
2
Fools who need to drop the remark that they ate, I mean were robbed, at this joint deserve what they get. Separating rich chumps from their cash is a time old tradition, obviously well honed at Per Se. They should practice cooking at home. More rewarding, creative and honest.
3
I don't read a ton of food reviews, but do they all talk so much about the cost of the meal? Seems like someone had a chip on their shoulder to me...
I know money is a factor, but this review reads like Wells was expecting to be carried in & out of the restaurant with his napkin continually fluffed for him to enjoy it. Like the guy who paid through the nose for a front row seat to Bob Dylan & thought the concert was the worst ever because he didn't play "Like a Rolling Stone."
I've been to Per Se recently and to be honest, I have no idea how he paid $3000 for 4 people - I paid far less per person and I enjoyed it a hell of a lot more. But then again, I don't expect a ballet dancer to pirouette over to my napkin and demi-plie back to the kitchen.
I know money is a factor, but this review reads like Wells was expecting to be carried in & out of the restaurant with his napkin continually fluffed for him to enjoy it. Like the guy who paid through the nose for a front row seat to Bob Dylan & thought the concert was the worst ever because he didn't play "Like a Rolling Stone."
I've been to Per Se recently and to be honest, I have no idea how he paid $3000 for 4 people - I paid far less per person and I enjoyed it a hell of a lot more. But then again, I don't expect a ballet dancer to pirouette over to my napkin and demi-plie back to the kitchen.
2
Shopping at the Time Warner center, my son and I found ourselves hungry - "Let's go to Per Se" he said! Really? So I took him, confident that there was no way we could waltz into a table at 6:00 on a Saturday night. Of course I was correct, but we were offered a table in the lounge and had a great time. Yes, the lobster was terrible - but without having to sit through hours of painful theater we actually had a delightful a la carte meal at a fairly reasonable price considering where we were. But he did make the observation that the more expensive the restaurant, the larger the plate, the smaller the portion!
4
1. Regardless of the quality of the food or service, you overpaid.
2, Regardless of the reason for your friend's pique, she needs a refresher course in proper public behavior.
2, Regardless of the reason for your friend's pique, she needs a refresher course in proper public behavior.
9
"bong water'.
Perfect.
Perfect.
5
After reading the review I think I'd rather go out for a pastrami sandwich. But the pictures....oh my!...make me want to change my mind. What to do?
1
You mentioned several times in your review, significant problems with your servers. Could it me that since their service is no longer tied to their pay directly, as through a tip, that they no longer really care?
Also, based upon your review and the emphatic last word, "no", it seems that this, "King wearing no clothes" deserves no more that one star. One wonders if your editors pressured you to give it even two starts?
Also, based upon your review and the emphatic last word, "no", it seems that this, "King wearing no clothes" deserves no more that one star. One wonders if your editors pressured you to give it even two starts?
7
Meanwhile, over in the 99%....Wednesday is meatloaf night at the Wayside! Homemade bread baked on the premises + 2 sides (including salad with one long carrot peel) for just $9.99. Ask for one of Carla's tables. She'll never let you see the bottom of your coffee cup. But come early cause' the meatloaf's usually sold out by 7.
10
There comes a point when people act way too selfish and border on being delusional. Eating at any restaurant that charges $300 or more per plate is just a mindless and severely flawed act of self grandeur. This is a vomiting of the law of diminished returns on an astronomical scale. How many kids could have been saved if you just chowed-down at a moderate price? Do you even ask yourself a question like that? My family could eat there everyday for the rest of our lives and it wouldn't dent our income. Happily, we choose not to and give $$ where needed. Perhaps if others did the same, life would not only be a little better for everybody. Per Se would lower their prices and act responsibly.
6
I couldn't believe it at the presence of small flies around my table --perhaps they were even bathroom flies. This was a meal costing $6-700 for two and I was thoroughly disgusted and disappointed at the quality of the food and service
8
Given the comments Pete makes in his review I'm not sure how he justifies even a 2 star rating.
6
I'm sure the food tastes wonderful, but the Oysters and Pearls dish is the most pretentious looking plate I've ever seen.
$3000 for a dinner for four people? How many weeks could a needy family eat for that amount?
$3000 for a dinner for four people? How many weeks could a needy family eat for that amount?
5
People who go into dining rooms and pay such fees to be fed expect the experience to be managed such that they may imagine themselves kings and queens, not fools. Sadly for them, any thin spots in the blanket they purchase may allow the chill of reality to creep in.
4
3000$ is almost equal to my monthly salary after taxes, healthcare premium and other deductions. I for one, cannot believe that such a high price line can buy a better dining experience than many moderately priced, but honest restaurants. A place that uses fresh & quality ingredients, tried and tested family recipes and a dedicated customer service can be a much flattering experience.
If I really earn well enough to afford such luxury, I'd rather spend my money on something tangible like a high end German sportscar or build me a nice home. I am sure the cost of one such dinner can cover loan repayments for a couple of months.
If I really earn well enough to afford such luxury, I'd rather spend my money on something tangible like a high end German sportscar or build me a nice home. I am sure the cost of one such dinner can cover loan repayments for a couple of months.
3
Years ago while on a business trip to San Fransisco, my wife managed to get us a reservation at the French Laundry. At 6:00 a.m., the day before our reservation, we got a cell call (which we didn't answer). It was the French Laundry. They left a voice mail saying that because we'd not reconfirmed our reservation it was being cancelled. We repeatedly tried calling them back and got no answer. We were never told about this requirement and I've always assumed we were bumped for someone more important. My impression of Thomas Keller went pretty much to zero at that point. Whatever the reason, after reading this review I'm now glad we were spared having to worship at the Keller temple of cuisine.
12
The pic of "The salmon cornet with tartare and crème fraîche"
Is the nytimes trying to make its readers' snicker?
12
I hate to admit my mind went to the same place. I figured the chef had a sense of humor or the Times did but for $350, I wouldn't be laughing.
4
Even if I had the money I would not spend it in this way. Seems stressful to notice where the silverware is placed - or not placed. That said, my husband and I had the opportunity in the 1990s to dine at a one star Michelein restaurant in Bordeaux. It was a blast - we were underdressed, but welcomed. It was like being in a play. We appreciated the food and the service and they appreciated our business.
7
It would be interesting to know what the specific event was that caused the guest to 'hurl' her napkin to the floor. That is a rude and vulgar action and in years of fine dining I have never witnessed anything like that anywhere. The comments of the reviewer reflect actions taking place over several meals, and despite a very few disagreements over the service and food items, there isn't much there to cause such a venomous response. The reviewer (not critic) should understand that he and his guests are part of the experience as well and their behavior seem reprehensible and noting this in a well read newspaper should be an embarrassment for him and his guests as well as the paper. If he feels like the place is too expensive, he should dine at a great restaurant in Paris or London. In reference to cost, it's a four hour dinner! A different restaurant could turn the tables three times for the same (or more) income. In the end, the review exposes more about the reviewer than the restaurant, a hatchet job where he should have been more deft, using a Japanese blade.
3
There is a class of establishment that targets a specific customer: the very wealthy who would rather not see someone not of their level achievement in the establishment. In order to accomplish this, a high price is not sufficient, because many people of lesser means will still choose to patronize a business that has a reputation for outstanding quality - quality that is worth the money spent. Many very expensive restaurants fall into this category. But some don't, and it's clear that, in at least some of these cases, it's intentional.
That's how a business attracts the very-well-heeled while repelling those who would only choose to go if the quality were truly outstanding and worth the price. I can name a dozen such establishments around the world. They are well-known to A-list celebrities and others who travel in those stratospheric circles. And, should one make the mistake of patronizing such an establishment in the hope of finding a wonderful experience, one might catch of glimpse of a Very Important Person. But one would not be satisfied with the product or service (or, rather, the lack), and would be sure to never return (and to tell their friends).
It appears that Per Se has reached this stratum, and this article is self-fulfilling proof: it will dissuade those of more modest means from going, while leaving the establishment to those who don't care what it costs, and simply want to be free from the gaze and gawking of those who haven't arrived (and never will).
That's how a business attracts the very-well-heeled while repelling those who would only choose to go if the quality were truly outstanding and worth the price. I can name a dozen such establishments around the world. They are well-known to A-list celebrities and others who travel in those stratospheric circles. And, should one make the mistake of patronizing such an establishment in the hope of finding a wonderful experience, one might catch of glimpse of a Very Important Person. But one would not be satisfied with the product or service (or, rather, the lack), and would be sure to never return (and to tell their friends).
It appears that Per Se has reached this stratum, and this article is self-fulfilling proof: it will dissuade those of more modest means from going, while leaving the establishment to those who don't care what it costs, and simply want to be free from the gaze and gawking of those who haven't arrived (and never will).
16
It's almost with glee that I read such critiques. Why would anyone keep trying poached lobster at Per Se or The French Laundry after having it once or even twice at either or both? Especially if, as I have, purchased the book and put into practice the recipe with success? I recently visited the web site devoted to the worlds 50 best restaurants. I scoffed at many of the referenced masterpieces. Was that food or a product of NASA's food lab? I also read, with amusement, Washington Post's assessment of the ten best food towns. Portland topped the list and Houston came up fifth. Not that we don't share that belief. In the end, price is just another indicator. There is no doubt that great creations, presentation and delivery should be rewarded, but I thought that the 1% got there using wits... I gladly paid an exorbitant amount for dinner at Le Jules Verne but I had Paris at my feet.
Thank God that foam is no longer popular.
Thank God that foam is no longer popular.
9
Reminds me of the wealthy ancient Romans, bored with their haute cusiine and looking for anything different -- what can we do with a pecaock's tongue that we haven't already? Unhealthy food and cruel to animals, especially the foie gras. Spoiled bored elites throwing napkins in fits while food stamps to the poor are cut. Perfectly emblematic of the backward priorities in our so-called civilization.
44
a bit of a Liberal hissy fit, don't you think?
1
Charles it's sickening, isn't it? I had similar thoughts while reading the review.
2
Well said. It is disgusting.
2
Finding three friends or colleagues willing to share a $3000 lunch seems the first indication that something's amiss. There does seem to be a sucker born if not every minute, at least every hour. Even near-perfection delivered at that price seems an insult to the other 99.9% on the planet. Having lived the American food revolution beginning in the 70's with Alice Waters in California I can kind of chart our fall from love of authenticity of real food to love of excess, and food as theatre. As a lover of great food and the warmth of sharing it with other people -whether at home or at your favorite restaurant - everything about Per Se and the culture it embodies seems the opposite of that. How about giving about nine tenths of that three grand to those who might literally be starving and still having enough left over for a great meal out for four??
27
Yes, yes, yes, from this home cook who lives in Napa. Thanks for saying this.
3
I invite readers to consider the excellent cuisine to be found in Minneapolis/St. Paul, Seattle, Providence, Denver and Chicago. There has been a The food is great, the service is outstanding, and the prices are a fraction of Per Se with comparable quality. For $3000 a group of four could fly to the Twin Cities, have a wonderful meal, attend great theater and come out quite a bit ahead. It's a thought.
27
priceless comments! bravo
2
The only problem with that is you would have to deal with the TSA...
I guess I have a different take; for me this article tells me more about Pete Wells than it does Per Se. The sense of entitlement, the dripping sarcasm, the failure to be embarrassed by the behavior of his napkin throwing guest.
These hit pieces by Wells have become a bore. Time for this paper to change reviewers, me thinks.
By the way, my experience at Per Se was different: The food was exceptional and so was the service. We had a great time. Weren't looking for trouble, and didn't have any.
These hit pieces by Wells have become a bore. Time for this paper to change reviewers, me thinks.
By the way, my experience at Per Se was different: The food was exceptional and so was the service. We had a great time. Weren't looking for trouble, and didn't have any.
20
I agree with Siam. What boorish behavior and extreme sense of entitlement.
Per Se is a lovely restaurant. Every meal I have had there was truly exceptional. No one in our party felt the need to throw things to the floor in protest.
Per Se is a lovely restaurant. Every meal I have had there was truly exceptional. No one in our party felt the need to throw things to the floor in protest.
8
The restaurant review was very entertaining. However...
As a one-point-five-percenter who lives like a ten-percenter, it makes me sick to see how much money the rich and famous spend on dining. I also see that a lots of animals are being butchered to entertain them (this is just an observation without passing judgment).
P.S. The pictures were great. Maybe I missed it in the article, but were they taken secretly (obviously not) or did the restaurant know that a food critic was being served?
As a one-point-five-percenter who lives like a ten-percenter, it makes me sick to see how much money the rich and famous spend on dining. I also see that a lots of animals are being butchered to entertain them (this is just an observation without passing judgment).
P.S. The pictures were great. Maybe I missed it in the article, but were they taken secretly (obviously not) or did the restaurant know that a food critic was being served?
10
It's my understanding that the pictures are taken after the fact. The NYT contacts the restaurant to let them know a review is imminent and asks to take pictures.
2
From what I understand, restaurants are usually informed that they've been reviewed after the fact and then the Times arranges a small photo shoot with them.
2
I'd never seen photos of the interior before.
Uncomfortably close to the free-breakfast room at the Holiday Inn Express, I'm afraid.
Uncomfortably close to the free-breakfast room at the Holiday Inn Express, I'm afraid.
21
My thoughts exactly!
Somewhere along the line some very talented and knowledgeable chefs traded the idea of culinary evolution for one based on wild extrapolation. Fueled by media attention, a bull market and a bored demographic , famous cooks and their restaurants fooled us into admiring an unsustainable cuisine - and for a few years we allowed our common sense, dulled by chilled vodka or a first growth Bordeaux, to ignore the absurdity of eating food plated with a pair of tweezers.
181
Best comment so far and so, so true!
2
Precisely!
1
Three years ago we moved from NY to Atlanta; instead of starving, as some of our friends suggested we might, we found a vibrant, exciting, unpretentious restaurant scene helmed by a lot of very talented and creative people. In all likelihood the chefs are wearing overalls, the servers t shirts, yet the plates they serve are meticulous, well executed, exciting and clever. Staple House, Gunshow, Little Bach, Atlas, St. Cecelia, Better Half, and many more (check out Atlanta Eater.com). On top of that, it's hard to spend more than $200-300 (and usually less) for two, wine, tax and service included. Bottom line, expectations usually exceeded by significant margins. But if you don't want that, Taqueria del Sol will give you tacos with astounding layers of flavor for $2, in a bustling yet hip environment.
Still love NY, but restaurants like Per Se are no longer part of that equation.
Still love NY, but restaurants like Per Se are no longer part of that equation.
30
Why so many stars? Charity? Prices and expectations need to be taken into consideration. The reviewer clearly left very unhappy all things considered with elevated blood pressure and probably has enjoyed a hot dog at a corner stand more.
8
I delight in finding excellent and honest food. Things prepared with love and sanity. A small environment typically with classic or personal dishes. It is usually a wonderful experience car and if not, one can at least walk away not too dissapointed. Re this review: I could afford this type of pretentious restaurant but I prefer neither the snooty patrons, the complete inversion of value, or the guilt at knowing I had spent enough to significantly alter some much more deserving persons life. $3000 for a meal is in itself a statement of moral failure regardless of the quality.
60
Like the commenter above, I, too, can afford it and I, too, am morally disgusted by the excesses of this sort of insanely curated, hyper-precious "cuisine as art." There is a line, at least for me. Remember the $6000 shower curtain of the felon CEO of AIG? I can't regard a $3000 dinner for four people any differently. Absolutely not for me, no matter how much money I have in the bank.
5
I'm glad someone finally said this. I'd enjoyed the French Laundry so much that I was looking forward to Per Se during a trip to Manhattan last year. It was not the same caliber, and I agree with Peter Wells that in the end I was made to feel as if they did me a favor by allowing me to eat there and spend $1,000 on dinner for two. At that price point, caviar and foie gras should be part of the experience, not tacky, pricey up-sells. It's simply too much money for those to be my memories.
39
Well no, the expectation wasn't that the waiter would pick it up and replace it on her lap, it was that he'd toss it and get her a fresh one.
6
To those on both sides of this review, I would suggest getting a nice bottle of wine, sit in a comfy chair, and read the masterpiece "Misbehaving" by Richard Thaler, the Nobel price winner and father of behavioral economics. This is great reading for both the owners and patrons of such high end eateries, as well as collectors of fine wines and other luxury goods.
8
I guess the emperor is naked. A restaurant that is touted as great, sets expectations high. My meal at Paul Bocuse in Lyon is something I will remember for my entire life. It exceeded expectations at every turn. Per Se set its own bar too high by charging such outrageous prices. I guess I can thank them for making it so expensive I couldn't even dream of going there -- unless I win tonight's lottery. But it looks like even then, I won't be going to Per Se anytime soon.
24
Well I guess a review like this embodies American decadence and arrogance, not for the writing about the expensive food, but for the opening anecdote. The diner "threw" her napkin to the floor in a fit of anger and disappointment and then expected the waiter to pick it up and replace it on her lap?! My goodness, when a child does this we teach them it is very bad manners indeed. There is NO excuse for childish tantrums from adults, and it saddens me to think people have so little regard for the dignity of the people serving them that they would behave this way. One commenter referred to feeling "humiliated" when a server misidentified a vegetable on her plate. How does the server feel when he watches a diner hurl her napkin to the floor in a fit of rage and is then expected to retrieve it for her. They are paid to provide excellent service, not to be treated with disrespect by those who obviously presume they are their superiors. Are fancy restaurant experiences supposed to release us from behaving like our better selves, so we can truly luxuriate in the decadence? I'd be embarrassed if my five year old behaved this way. Frankly, it cast the expectations of the reviewer in a light that makes me question the entire review. I'll say what I'd say to my child--those who are serving you deserve to be treated with the same dignity you expect to receive. Money doesn't release you from this moral obligation. Maybe if you tried this, you might find your service improves?
127
Pearls, clutched.
4
That's a lot to write over napkin-throwing. If it were Denny's I'd agree with you, but it's not. Childish behavior? Yes. Outrageous humiliation of an underpaid server? Hardly. If that's what saddens you about the current human condition, I pray you don't stumble upon the latest news out of Syria,
4
Yay, Ellie, good for you! If you ever want an education in human nature, work in an establishment that serves food. About 50 years ago, as an undergraduate at Harvard, I got a part-time job as a busboy in Lehman Hall, then one of the few places where men and women on the university meal plan could have lunch together. The only rule was that diners cleared their own tables, taking their trays to a conveyor belt and emptying the waste into a trash can. It was a revelation to me, a leftist devoted then as now to the example of George Orwell, to see that some of the same people who spent their lunch hours plotting the worker-student alliance were the most prone to wait for the busboy's back to be turned to sneak off, forcing others to wait on them. I imagine they were too used to being waited on by maids. On one occasion, I passed a group of six students, earnestly discussing the Revolution. One of them said, "Wait a minute! You talk about revolution, but how many here actually want one, now? Hands!" Six hands went up around the table. I turned around a minute later and there were six abandoned trays where they had been sitting. I ran for the door and nabbed them on the steps of the building. "If this had been Barcelona in 1936," I told them, "we workers would have shot you bourgeois for less than that. Get back in there and take your trays." Very meekly, they did. But the staff there was great. My boss told me when I left that the job was waiting for me any time. I was proud.
6
My parents, solidly middle-class but with advanced palates, had the optimal solution to fine dining (which they considered an important aspect of our education): go to these lovely places at lunch time. For those who take this review seriously (as I do) lunch is a better option and an experience which brings in line expectations. I have eaten at Per Se and the French Laundry and other TK places (for dinner) but find lunch to be a more relaxed, interesting experience. I appreciate this review in that while I don't mind the prices of these places, I do mind pretentious waitstaff. And you are right to complain about a lack of attention to detail in a place of this caliber. I hope Per Se is able to realign its reputation with this wake up call. In the interim, try lunch!
7
Ignoring the two categories of troll responses a review of this type of restaurant typically generates (Cat. A: "I once went to a restaurant like this and left hungry, and this taco/deli/burger joint does the same for $500 less" vs Cat. B "I frequent three star michelin star restaurants all the time and the plebs have no business here because they don't UNDERSTAND fine dining"), from personal experience (oh God, careful I am not going to drift into cat. B), I think I have to agree with Mr. Wells here.
For most people, this type of restaurant is a destination restaurant, and the corresponding hefty price tag reasonably justifies an experience that will make you reminisce for days/weeks/months. My biggest problem with Per Se was the lack of love in the cooking and the service, particularly when judged against its peers (oh, almost felt like some cat B name dropping here!).
Of course, the food is still fabulous by any standard. But adding in the ludicrous mark-ups for the usual suspects (and let's face it, pretty much anything covered in white truffle tastes good) and the sterile atmosphere, this restaurant may perhaps not deserve to be on your special destination splurge/experience list if that is what you're looking for.
And perhaps that's fine - there will be plenty of expense accounts and Cat B patrons ("I'll have the white truffle on everything!") to keep the place going.
But do I still dream about my meal there and hoping to go back one day?
I am afraid not.
For most people, this type of restaurant is a destination restaurant, and the corresponding hefty price tag reasonably justifies an experience that will make you reminisce for days/weeks/months. My biggest problem with Per Se was the lack of love in the cooking and the service, particularly when judged against its peers (oh, almost felt like some cat B name dropping here!).
Of course, the food is still fabulous by any standard. But adding in the ludicrous mark-ups for the usual suspects (and let's face it, pretty much anything covered in white truffle tastes good) and the sterile atmosphere, this restaurant may perhaps not deserve to be on your special destination splurge/experience list if that is what you're looking for.
And perhaps that's fine - there will be plenty of expense accounts and Cat B patrons ("I'll have the white truffle on everything!") to keep the place going.
But do I still dream about my meal there and hoping to go back one day?
I am afraid not.
23
Honestly, I cannot see my some would get upset about the writers review. Eating like many other things is all subjective. Though I have to say, I truly believe things can be more hype than what they claim to be.. i.e., an amazing restaurant for an enormous price. I have eaten on many occasions at great restaurants where the cost was fairly decent and the food outstanding. Even where quite the opposite were true, very expensive and the food where I was left walking out saying, "I could cook this better myself". This is the most unacceptable I want to be blown away by food (along with good service) at a restaurant. Honestly, what else are we paying for? I do wish the fad of all that foam and fancy naming calling food just to raise a price on a dish would stop. To be honesty also - most people are easily influenced, if the price is high it must be good! For whatever reason this does go hand in hand for a good portion of the population; high price better service/food or item - lower price the brain takes over and says it can't be as good. Honestly, I would rather eat in a dive with amazing food, no vertical plating where the food as to look beautiful. I want rustic delicious food. Not something that sits in my plate and just because it looks pretty it must taste good!
11
As a Per Se (frequent) patron (me believes) that Pete Wells might be well-known in the trade and appropriately messed with. Dining at great restaurants is relationship driven and (like it or not) is interactional between service staff, kitchen and patron. Uptight diners unaccustomed to (global variety) of fine dining will never experience fine dining. If you're mindful of every moment and jesture like a chicken hawk you'll miss almost everything grand about three star service. Also, these expensive establishments have more moving parts than a Rugby squad and (part and parcel) is the performance without hoping for "Barnum and Baliey". Regardless of price it is still only a restaurant with humans trying to connect with their diners (in a special way) but sometimes they kiss a frog.
7
Why 'me believes' instead of 'I believe?' Is this supposed to be Shakespearean or something?
And the blizzard of parentheses... yikes.
And the blizzard of parentheses... yikes.
1
I think you have that backwards. It IS quite likely that Mr. Wells was recognized, but its inconceivable that he was given bad service on purpose. Any restaurant of this kind would automatically switch into overdrive to please such a person, so Per Se either couldn't go to an other gear or simply didn't care to. Not sure which would be more horrifying.
3
Huh? So if someone has a bad experience at Per Se, it's because they don't know how to dine there? Well, if that doesn't take the cakeage, I don't know what does.
And if the Per Se staff is arrogant enough to "mess with" a New York Times food critic, they earned the scathing review well before he set foot into the place.
And if the Per Se staff is arrogant enough to "mess with" a New York Times food critic, they earned the scathing review well before he set foot into the place.
6
The Dropped Napkin...
In retrospect, we now know the first incidents preceding the revolution were seen at Per Se. Servers argued with diners about the wine, dropped napkins were allowed to remain on the floor and mon Dieu, the lobster could be gristly. The 400 began to worry about their safety with good reason. A date began to be chalked on the sidewalks outside the New York's best restaurants: "10 September 1977" which up to now, was the last date France used the guillotine for an execution. It is still available.
In retrospect, we now know the first incidents preceding the revolution were seen at Per Se. Servers argued with diners about the wine, dropped napkins were allowed to remain on the floor and mon Dieu, the lobster could be gristly. The 400 began to worry about their safety with good reason. A date began to be chalked on the sidewalks outside the New York's best restaurants: "10 September 1977" which up to now, was the last date France used the guillotine for an execution. It is still available.
40
Good to know that one dares also to criticize the well-respected restaurants.
Three remarks:
1. did Thomas Keller / Per Se have any response to this?
2. The article could be halved: the vitriol drenched the paper already after 30 lines. Yet complaining about high prices for extra's is cheap: people go to these places to be seen to splash out (cash/spending/wealth) so the restaurant caters to that.
3. why even two stars? I cannot find any text to support that. Which is lacking this rating system because it skews to good and excellent which hardly is the case with dining out.
4. regarding 3. This should have been a one star when the price is taken into account.
Three remarks:
1. did Thomas Keller / Per Se have any response to this?
2. The article could be halved: the vitriol drenched the paper already after 30 lines. Yet complaining about high prices for extra's is cheap: people go to these places to be seen to splash out (cash/spending/wealth) so the restaurant caters to that.
3. why even two stars? I cannot find any text to support that. Which is lacking this rating system because it skews to good and excellent which hardly is the case with dining out.
4. regarding 3. This should have been a one star when the price is taken into account.
9
Many people would say that the vitriol is insufficient, people who saved perhaps their entire lives for a "meal of a lifetime" and then were defrauded.
2
Yesterday, before reading this review, I decided to go out on a limb and make a reservation at a nearby restaurant with 3 Michelin stars. What I appreciate about Mr. Wells' review of Per Se is that it has reminded me, someone who can't easily afford to eat out at expensive restaurants all the time, that the customer's experience matters as much as the chef's reputation. Sometimes I go to an expensive restaurant assuming that anything I perceive as negative is just a figment of my middle class mind.
This weekend I'll show up at the restaurant with 3 Michelin stars, armed with the knowledge that I have the money to pay for my meal, so the restaurant should have the responsibility to meet expectations.
This weekend I'll show up at the restaurant with 3 Michelin stars, armed with the knowledge that I have the money to pay for my meal, so the restaurant should have the responsibility to meet expectations.
31
If the typical Manhattan hedge fund manager applied their "Ayn Rand" standards to most of these poorly managed intercontinental train wrecks, we would all be better off.
2
This is THE REVIEW I've been expecting for a long time. Just can't agree more. I dined there earlier this year with a couple friends and the service was just terrible, I really couldn't find another word.
There was very little explanation of the menu, impatient server, a spaced-out chocolate guy who didn't even bother to go though the pieces, oh, one server even told me that one of the ingredients was "endive" (as I knew it was some kind of a beet/squash but just not sure the specific type), plus, they poured us peppermint tea instead of earl grey (we asked for it) at tea service.
Utterly unacceptable.
Needless to say, I cannot be more furious at the end of the meal. It's ridiculous that the most acclaimed New York restaurant could ever deliver such inappropriate service. I asked to see the manager and told him about the bad experience. Even though we were "gifted" a free meal, my friends and I were unhappy - our day was ruined.
Receiving all these, I felt not only uncomfortable, unwelcome but also humiliated (especially with the "endive" part) - I have lived and worked in New York City for 5 years and that was one of the most unpleasant days I could remember.
Why did we get this treatment? The educated guess was, one of us didn't speak English, they couldn't care less. Anyway, thank you Mr Wells for writing the piece - otherwise I probably wouldn't ever find a proper way to let this out.
The food - it was okay, but it did not live up to the fame.
There was very little explanation of the menu, impatient server, a spaced-out chocolate guy who didn't even bother to go though the pieces, oh, one server even told me that one of the ingredients was "endive" (as I knew it was some kind of a beet/squash but just not sure the specific type), plus, they poured us peppermint tea instead of earl grey (we asked for it) at tea service.
Utterly unacceptable.
Needless to say, I cannot be more furious at the end of the meal. It's ridiculous that the most acclaimed New York restaurant could ever deliver such inappropriate service. I asked to see the manager and told him about the bad experience. Even though we were "gifted" a free meal, my friends and I were unhappy - our day was ruined.
Receiving all these, I felt not only uncomfortable, unwelcome but also humiliated (especially with the "endive" part) - I have lived and worked in New York City for 5 years and that was one of the most unpleasant days I could remember.
Why did we get this treatment? The educated guess was, one of us didn't speak English, they couldn't care less. Anyway, thank you Mr Wells for writing the piece - otherwise I probably wouldn't ever find a proper way to let this out.
The food - it was okay, but it did not live up to the fame.
51
I have to wonder if automatically adding a service charge to the bill doesn't result in this. Unfortunately, Per Se may be a good example of a noble experiment that will ultimately fail, for the simple reason that the diner should give the waitstaff a tip based on, well, service.
6
Count yourself lucky if that's one of the most unpleasant days you can remember.
3
Except that research has shown that tips are not generally based on the quality of service; the gender of the server, and even whether he or she draws a smiley face on the bill, is more predictive of how generous a tip will be than the speed or professionalism of the service. Tips are a very strange North American quirk that would never have made it into the culture had they not been grandfathered in (can you imagine what the labour lawyers would say if some political wag decided that people working in some other career -- say, teaching -- should bring their salaries up to minimum wage through tipping?). There is a stellar set of articles by Jay Porter that I have linked below; be sure to read the whole thing, since his analysis at the end is quite complex.
http://jayporter.com/dispatches/observations-from-a-tipless-restaurant-p...
http://jayporter.com/dispatches/observations-from-a-tipless-restaurant-p...
I'm so sorry to hear this, having had great experiences at the French Laundry, where the food was superb and the service outstanding and exceptionally kind and welcoming. Maybe it is the difference between the two coasts and the idea that high-end service in New York must be officious.
I am grateful for this review, which is a warning that paying a month's middle class salary for a meal from a celebrated chef might be a gamble. Consistency is the most valuable commodity for a restaurant, and after three visits, Pete Wells has convinced me that Per Se has not achieved this. At these prices, no matter what one's income, a diner wants a solid guarantee of a wonderful experience.
I am grateful for this review, which is a warning that paying a month's middle class salary for a meal from a celebrated chef might be a gamble. Consistency is the most valuable commodity for a restaurant, and after three visits, Pete Wells has convinced me that Per Se has not achieved this. At these prices, no matter what one's income, a diner wants a solid guarantee of a wonderful experience.
27
Long ago have lost interest in high end eating since we have two kids and never could afford it anyways (and who want kids when you are paying $$$$?) Sounds uptight, trussed up, pretentious and nevermind all the people who never have had the privilege to poopoo this scene which sounds like a real drag. I'll stick with my own carnitas and bolognese which doesn't garner complaints and I can dance around the house while cookin it!
21
Why would anyone eat there?
14
For no other reason than:
(1) You're advantaged by an indulgent expense account; or (2) you're the guest of someone with a similarly indulgent expense account!
(1) You're advantaged by an indulgent expense account; or (2) you're the guest of someone with a similarly indulgent expense account!
2
Lol! Great reading this from my perch near the French Laundry. We are all sick and tired of the Thomas Keller as food God. Yes, an excellent chef, but please.... Tell me you'd like to try just one (!!!!) of the other amazing restaurants in the Napa Valley! Perhaps the amazing taco counter at Luna Market in Rutherford. Cost difference: $492
39
I never expect to dine at Per Se (my income or lack thereof will not permit such indulgent) but I thoroughly enjoyed this review. Thank you for letting the rest of us know what we're (not) missing.
40
Never been, but from the review it sounds like it's essentially become a tourist trap, a place where the quality really doesn't matter because people just want to say they've been.
15
No, it's not for the average tourist. It's for the .1%, both domestic and international.
1
Wow. Bit too harsh Mr. Wells. I have been reading your (and other food critics) reviews long enough that I can tell something must have really bothered you :)
My experience at Per Se was quite opposite of what you described but it was over a year ago.
My experience at Per Se was quite opposite of what you described but it was over a year ago.
2
Some... in the Valley are feeling gleeful.
3
You know you're a big deal restaurant when you generate 500+ comments in the Food section! Yes you can get great tasting food anywhere big and small, expensive and cheap but places at this level is showcasing this as an art form. I hope Mr Keller can right this ship but the more places you open the harder it is keep control.
11
I am not sure what is more revolting the food or the cost.
7
Pete Wells is one of the best writers in the country right now.
Lost on most people critical of his reviews is this: He writes to the people who are most likely to frequent the restaurant in question. The Guy Fieri take-down was written to an audience of people who would presumably like a Guy Fieri restaurant. As was Senor Wongs.
As is Per Se, here. I would never pay for this restaurant. But Wells writes to why the people who would and have and could why they should not.
[And happily reminds the rest of us we are not missing anything.]
I'm a political person. And I like to eat. The NYT's political opinion stuff pales in comparison to what Wells cranks out.
Long live Wells as the NYT restaurant critic!
Lost on most people critical of his reviews is this: He writes to the people who are most likely to frequent the restaurant in question. The Guy Fieri take-down was written to an audience of people who would presumably like a Guy Fieri restaurant. As was Senor Wongs.
As is Per Se, here. I would never pay for this restaurant. But Wells writes to why the people who would and have and could why they should not.
[And happily reminds the rest of us we are not missing anything.]
I'm a political person. And I like to eat. The NYT's political opinion stuff pales in comparison to what Wells cranks out.
Long live Wells as the NYT restaurant critic!
64
You are so right about the wimpy and always un-readable opinion pieces and Editorials in the NYT. This review alone has convinced me to renew my Times subscription.
3
Here's a thought for when you drop, or throw (!), your napkin on the floor: pick it up. And if you can't find your dessert fork if it's near your water glass then you shouldn't be writing for a national newspaper. If the food is bad then fine, write about that. But complaining about thrown napkins and misplaced dessert utensils - embarrassing.
24
You clearly don't understand fine dining. The price is not intended just to cover the food, but rather the entire experience. The service should be exceptional in all ways. This is what people are paying for at these restaurants - amazing food and amazing service. It is very relevant to talk about indifferent or poor service at one of the most expensive and well-regarded fine dining restaurants in the US. It's "on the table".
35
I agree with Elka. Having been a two Michelin star chef myself, I know how food writers can be so unprofessional. Boris Keller.
How right you are! Elka speaks like someone victimized by the cult mentality described by Mr. Wells, where customers are made to feel they are lucky to gain admittance and receive anything, whereas the exact opposite situation should obtain. It is this cult mentality, and nothing else, that is responsible for Per Se still receiving guests.
1
Thank you so much for this restaurant review in the New Year. I have just marked this joint i mean fine dining establishment off my list for 2016. Cheers!
8
Ah the days of the unlimited expense account....
4
Great review of a very pompous restaurant.
10
So napkin-dropping has replaced pearl-clutching as an expression of dismay among those who can afford to spend $800 on a single meal? How fascinating!
25
What do you think they should have done? Stand up and shout, ruining the meals of everyone in the restaurant? Confront the manager during the meal, with who-knows-what result? Sounds like quite a civilized protest to me.
2
It's the age of Trump, remember. The ascendancy of the entitled vulgarians.
1
I love what Per Se is supposed to be and have enjoyed almost all of this class of restaurant that Manhattan has to offer. This doesn't sound like the experience I had at all, but I've had mediocre experiences at places like this and it is the worst! Part of what you're paying for when you cough up $300 for dinner is perfection. $100 goes very far, even for fine dining in Manhattan. Those of you who choose not to experience things like this can mock all you want, but I'd rather spend $400 for two at Daniel in place of five trips to The Olive Garden or Red Lobster or even for ten trips to DipB's holes in the wall.
Mr. Wells, can you do Le Bernardin next? They only had one server for our table and couldn't ever get my wife and I our food at the same time; something I'd expect even Denny's to get right.
Mr. Wells, can you do Le Bernardin next? They only had one server for our table and couldn't ever get my wife and I our food at the same time; something I'd expect even Denny's to get right.
17
Actually, it's much more than $300. You are forgetting numerous huge upcharges referred to in the article, for things like truffles and fois gras. Adding them, as Per Se intends, makes it the most expensive restaurant in the city. That means it should have the best service, second to none.
2
Yes, please do Le Benardin next!
I guess to move us along, the waiters always come by before we've had a chance to read the menu, and start telling us what 'they' like. Not interested. Same thing at Cafe Boulud, by the way.
I guess to move us along, the waiters always come by before we've had a chance to read the menu, and start telling us what 'they' like. Not interested. Same thing at Cafe Boulud, by the way.
About time someone wrote the truth about this place. Pete Wells is to be commended. But in my view two stars is way too generous.
16
The emperor wears no lobster bib.
"With or without supplemental charges, though, Per Se is among the worst food deals in New York."
Adjusting your criteria a bit and speaking for mere mortals who actually live here, #1 worst is Gristede's.
"With or without supplemental charges, though, Per Se is among the worst food deals in New York."
Adjusting your criteria a bit and speaking for mere mortals who actually live here, #1 worst is Gristede's.
13
Alas, last month we too suffered disappointment at Mr Keller's Napa pop-up "Ad Hoc". There the sin was salt. Nob turned up to 11 volume of salt in every dish that came out. Nose bleed levels of salt. Leaving us queasy and our blood pressure skyrocketing.
Perhaps it is time for Mr Keller to re-evaluate his empire.
Perhaps it is time for Mr Keller to re-evaluate his empire.
20
Great review, and great comments by readers--a treat from both angles!
8
In general Im not a big city person but I do enjoy the unique NYC silliness/goofiness articles such as this engender...smiles
7
Your guest's experience with the sommelier sounds very similar to an interaction we had with the sommelier several years ago at the French Laundry. Perhaps he has transferred?? Or perhaps Keller looks for argumentative sommeliers?
17
I actually think this could be the most tragic aspect of the review, what you describe is exactly what most people would fear would happen with dealing with a somm, which is why they are intimidated by the process and indeed by wine itself. The job the restaurant is to achieve the exact opposite. What you describe is toxic.
1
Mr. Wells
Thank you for your honest and amusing review. I had eaten here for my 30th birthday several years ago and found the food delicious and the service unparalleled. When my sister turned 30 this past November we made a repeat trip. What a disappointment! I too found the lobster to be tough and gristly, we also had to argue with our waiter for the food we wanted, and in general we were made to feel most unwelcome. Most disappointgly, we were 'gifted' with a birthday cake instead of the fondly remembered doughnuts and chocolates. Not only was the 'cake' a completely ordinary tiramisu, but we were not even allotted the entire cake! I felt embarrassed for suggesting we return and am grateful it was not aimed at us but a sign of slipping standards.
Thank you for your honest and amusing review. I had eaten here for my 30th birthday several years ago and found the food delicious and the service unparalleled. When my sister turned 30 this past November we made a repeat trip. What a disappointment! I too found the lobster to be tough and gristly, we also had to argue with our waiter for the food we wanted, and in general we were made to feel most unwelcome. Most disappointgly, we were 'gifted' with a birthday cake instead of the fondly remembered doughnuts and chocolates. Not only was the 'cake' a completely ordinary tiramisu, but we were not even allotted the entire cake! I felt embarrassed for suggesting we return and am grateful it was not aimed at us but a sign of slipping standards.
13
So precocious. Go to Salties in Williamsburg and have some really good and inventive food with amazing flavor combinations and textures.You will have to try hard to spend $20. Okay, granted it is not open in the evenings for that, Mr. Curry.
3
We ate Per Se shortly after it opened. We had a dreadful "cost=adjusted" experience. Over-rated and over-priced was disappointing enough. However we had to endure wait-staff who were insufferable. The front of house people would not allow our daughters (10 & 13) to dine in the restaurant with us -- this was particularly galling since French-educated kids routinely were welcomed into any number of fine restaurants in Europe. Our waiter provided us with an act of pretentiousness that we have dined off many times since. While taking our order he insisted on showing off about how he did not need to write anything down, pointing at his head saying "I've got it all up here." The food was fine but far from being as special as it was all hyped to be. Per Se deserves the review it received -- I only wish it had come due sooner.
11
Where did you psrk your daughters? Do they have childcare at Per Se?
1
Obiviously, this guy Pete Wells doesn't like California cuisine. He's the one who devastated Guy Fieri's restaurant on November 13, 2012.
5
I think Guy Fieri did that to himself.
4
About time!
Even in the "good old days," at least in my one trip, Per Se did not deliver.
The meal and service were so mediocre (AKA, bad) I let the maitre de know we were quite disappointed. His solution to overshadow, among other things, a plate of sturgeon that reminded one that sturgeon was valued for its caviar, not its flesh, and insipid pasta, was to smother the pasta (until he was asked to stop) with shavings from an enormous white truffle.
He clearly tried! It was appreciated and the truffle smothered pasta became delicious.
But when the highlight of an expensive many hours long meal is the amuse-bouche, you know you have a problem!
Even in the "good old days," at least in my one trip, Per Se did not deliver.
The meal and service were so mediocre (AKA, bad) I let the maitre de know we were quite disappointed. His solution to overshadow, among other things, a plate of sturgeon that reminded one that sturgeon was valued for its caviar, not its flesh, and insipid pasta, was to smother the pasta (until he was asked to stop) with shavings from an enormous white truffle.
He clearly tried! It was appreciated and the truffle smothered pasta became delicious.
But when the highlight of an expensive many hours long meal is the amuse-bouche, you know you have a problem!
12
Totally agree. Thank you for finally putting words to the unnamed frustrations that plague appraisals of Per Se for those of us who are unfortunate enough to have wasted money there. It feels kind of like when everyone finally realized American Hustle wasn't a fantastic work of cinema; or when everyone noticed the Emperor Had No Clothes.
13
well done pete. we used to go 2-3 times a year and have simply stopped going because the food has gone down in standard of preparation, taste and presentation, but still good enough and interesting. most of all the service is just atrocious- servers are many and they strut about with a prideful air, but they are not trained in the art of service, do not give the impression they wish to serve and are argumentative. for a business where 30% of what you pay, goes to "service", i think we deserve servers who know what good service is, are mindful on the job and at least give you the impression that they wish to serve. thank you.
17
At least the review was delicious.
21
We must have visited a different Per Se this past Sunday, where the experience was nothing short of outstanding. The classics dishes were great and a couple of new preparations were magnificent, which resulted in kudos to the saucier in the kitchen. Bread service was very good, desserts were very good and the service was attentive and very professional.
It’s very hard to see an institution like this, whose chef/proprietor Keller together with other great chefs like Palladin, Boulud, Trotter, Seeger and so on have done so much to rise the level of gastronomy in America, at the same time training many professionals that today are developing their own stories at many other restaurants, get a review that is not fair, which you have to conclude after comparing with other 2, 3 and 4 stars whose culinary offer is not close to Per Se’s.
If we take a look at the sixteen 3 and 2 Michelin star restaurants in New York, the average price for their tasting menus including 20% service is $269.08, ranging from $174.00 from Aquavit to $540.00 from Masa, with 6 restaurants above the average and 10 below. Let’s not mention some places in the west coast, which are even pricier. The conclusion? Fine dining experiences, supposing all these 16 restaurants qualify as fine dining – settings, ingredients, courses, locations, offerings – cost a lot of money to produce, especially if you use the best ingredients the world has to offer.
2 stars? No way. I think another person dropped the napkin.
It’s very hard to see an institution like this, whose chef/proprietor Keller together with other great chefs like Palladin, Boulud, Trotter, Seeger and so on have done so much to rise the level of gastronomy in America, at the same time training many professionals that today are developing their own stories at many other restaurants, get a review that is not fair, which you have to conclude after comparing with other 2, 3 and 4 stars whose culinary offer is not close to Per Se’s.
If we take a look at the sixteen 3 and 2 Michelin star restaurants in New York, the average price for their tasting menus including 20% service is $269.08, ranging from $174.00 from Aquavit to $540.00 from Masa, with 6 restaurants above the average and 10 below. Let’s not mention some places in the west coast, which are even pricier. The conclusion? Fine dining experiences, supposing all these 16 restaurants qualify as fine dining – settings, ingredients, courses, locations, offerings – cost a lot of money to produce, especially if you use the best ingredients the world has to offer.
2 stars? No way. I think another person dropped the napkin.
4
Well, Per Se's base charge is WAY above your average, and your average doesn't factor in one of Mr. Wells' main points, that Per Se has numerous upcharges for things like truffles and fois gras which, if not taken, result in an inferior experience. Put all of them on the bill, as Mr. Wells did, and Per Se easily rivals Masa. It should have the best service in the City, without peer. It doesn't.
2
As a retired chef (full disclosure: I never worked at ANY establishment with such lofty aspirations - or ratings) I am disappointed that Pete's review of an institution like Per Se indicates an establishment where a sense of entitlement has replaced any sense of obligation to their customers.
Whether you run Per Se or a corner diner, the moment you lose focus on how to best serve your clientele is the moment you start your decline into obscurity ... and after that comes irrelevancy.
I don't care if it's a $7.95 bacon and egg breakfast served with almost raw hashed browns, or your $400.00 "small plate" with items like caviar or shaved truffles, if your customer can't justify the cost/benefit/pleasure balance you are only tempting those customers to go somewhere else.
Encouraging your customers to shop elsewhere is a smooth road to failure.
Whether you run Per Se or a corner diner, the moment you lose focus on how to best serve your clientele is the moment you start your decline into obscurity ... and after that comes irrelevancy.
I don't care if it's a $7.95 bacon and egg breakfast served with almost raw hashed browns, or your $400.00 "small plate" with items like caviar or shaved truffles, if your customer can't justify the cost/benefit/pleasure balance you are only tempting those customers to go somewhere else.
Encouraging your customers to shop elsewhere is a smooth road to failure.
20
I enjoyed a most delicious lunch today. From our local burger man, The Arctic Roadrunner here in Anchorage Alaska. A halibut burger...a moist piece of halibut, grilled to perfection nestled between the two parts of a soft white bread bun, with a tangle of grated ice berg lettuce, a bit of tangy tartar sauce for zip, and a slice of bright yellow American Cheese as the coup de grace. Oh, I forgot the slice of sour pickle. As a side dish? A mess of homemade deep fried onion rings. So, hot and steamy that when I opened the bag, my car windows fogged up. This was a superb article. Food writing like sports writing is often more entertaining and insightful than reading other forms of literature. BTW, the photo of the salmon tartare and creme fraiche looks suspiciously like a teeny tiny phallus. Could there be some sort of subliminal message here?
8
Beyond unfortunate, yet likely all true. Wells's review also serves as a broadside to the dialed-in stuff served up by Michelin and San Pellegrino (World's Best list). As a piece of journalism , his review is a masterpiece of observation and should be studied by all the would-be bloggers who fancy themselves serious critics.
Now, the question is who will want to work there? Why would they?
Keller may (will?) have to shut the place down and do a rethink - start over. No more oysters and pearls, no more tuna in a cone, no more "coffee and doughnuts." Those are crutches, and he has to throw them away.
(As for service I am truly shocked to the core. When I and my wife ate there years ago, the service was magic, the kind that leaves you in a happy daze.)
Now, the question is who will want to work there? Why would they?
Keller may (will?) have to shut the place down and do a rethink - start over. No more oysters and pearls, no more tuna in a cone, no more "coffee and doughnuts." Those are crutches, and he has to throw them away.
(As for service I am truly shocked to the core. When I and my wife ate there years ago, the service was magic, the kind that leaves you in a happy daze.)
5
While there may not be such a thing as too much truffles the description of the truffles raining down on the risotto does seem a bit much. I guess this is meant to justify the $175 surcharge. There was no surcharge that I can remember when one course at the restaurant at the Hotel Martinez in Cannes consisted of an entire truffle. Or perhaps there was a surcharge but everything was perfect that day. Viva La France.
7
And at the little place in Florence under the overpass, there was no surcharge, but the tortellini was covered, I mean totally, with shaved truffles. November in Italy, very unlike New York.
9
My wife and I were regulars for a week or two at a trattoria in a small town south of Perugia where the pasta dishes were literally smothered in shaved truffles. It reminded us of chocolate, especially when paired with "caramelle", twists of pasta bulging like wrapped candy, served in a creamy white sauce. The atmosphere was lively, the service friendly, fast and unpretentious, the portions generous, and the bill grew mysteriously smaller each night. Unlike Per Se, our kind of place.
5
Home made fettucini at a local Trattoria in Rome.......done to perfection with massive amounts of white truffles also in November. Nothing like it in the world. No extra charge either.
1
Let me get something off my chest. Those that enjoy this type of food and have saved their hard earned money for that special meal should not be vilified for wanting to eat at these restaurants. For them it is a hobby and an interest, like going to a sporting event, or traveling, or collecting antiques. The diners collect experiences. At least I do.
That aside, I completely agree with a commentator that said the "high end" restaurants are no the same as they were. Sometimes I just want good honest food without the entertainment or pretentiousness. My last meal at Eleven Madison was good, but not great. Certainly not worthy of the price we paid. The showmanship was over the top and intrusive, however the food was not over the top. We were underwhelmed. In comparison, we had a meal at the Elephant Bar in the lobby of the NoMad. Less than half the price, and in my opinion, much tastier than the food at its sibling restaurant.
I understand where restaurants like Per Se are coming from. Overhead is high. Food costs are high. It takes a lot of effort and cost to prepare these dishes, however when a patron sees these high prices on the tasting menu, a certain amount of perfection in the food and service is expected. You should be able to eat your way through the entire menu and enjoy it. It shouldnt feel like a chore. This is unfortunately how I felt at Eleven Madison, and given this review of Per Se, I wont waste my time trying to score a reservation.
That aside, I completely agree with a commentator that said the "high end" restaurants are no the same as they were. Sometimes I just want good honest food without the entertainment or pretentiousness. My last meal at Eleven Madison was good, but not great. Certainly not worthy of the price we paid. The showmanship was over the top and intrusive, however the food was not over the top. We were underwhelmed. In comparison, we had a meal at the Elephant Bar in the lobby of the NoMad. Less than half the price, and in my opinion, much tastier than the food at its sibling restaurant.
I understand where restaurants like Per Se are coming from. Overhead is high. Food costs are high. It takes a lot of effort and cost to prepare these dishes, however when a patron sees these high prices on the tasting menu, a certain amount of perfection in the food and service is expected. You should be able to eat your way through the entire menu and enjoy it. It shouldnt feel like a chore. This is unfortunately how I felt at Eleven Madison, and given this review of Per Se, I wont waste my time trying to score a reservation.
29
I hope 2016 marks the decline of tasting menu restaurants. The whole concept of this restaurant seems to lack any heart, so I'm not surprised that once it stops being perfect there's not much left I don't mind spending money on restaurants. But I don't want to pay a fortune for a 4 hours of eating anything anymore, let alone what seems to be largely Thomas Keller's name and partially his greatest hits from the 90's. I'm not surprised that the staff isn't having fun. This doesn't seem like a fun restaurant for diners, so I think I'd hate to be there every night.
11
Even though I can afford it, I have come to resent these pretentious restaurants. I find a lot more joy in a Mexican Taco truck eating $1 carne asada Tacos or hole in the wall Indian / Pakistani restaurant with the complex aroma of Haleem and Goat Biryani. These are complex dishes, that requires years of institutional knowledge and practice to perfect. A Biryani is often cooked overnight to make the meet tender and allow the rice to soak in the flavor. Yet, all these deliciousness are available under $20
65
Learning to cook from my Grandmother, my mom, and my mother-in-law, I've learned that great food can be simple and inexpensive. Living five miles from Mexico for the last 46 years has added flavors of great food that doesn't cost $400 a plate... Eating well isn't a measure of stature!
5
Per Se is not The Box Tree. I hope.
http://events.nytimes.com/mem/nycreview.html?res=9F03EEDF1330F932A25750C...
Frank Bruni's original Per Se review referred to "this preening, peacock-vain newcomer." And at least once he thought that the Per Se team recognized him. And the vegetable menu tipped the restaurant into four star status.
On an early visit my lovely spouse, who doesn't drink alcohol, requested an alcohol-free drink pairing. The resulting parade was extraordinary. The drink with a corn dish featured a foamed beverage that was made from the milk and water liquid in which the corn had been poached.
On every subsequent visit my lovely spouse has, unasked, received a similarly spectacular pairing.
Each time I struggle with whether to order the chef's tasting menu or the vegetable menu. The vegetable menu usually wins but the team is always willing to swap out dishes from the chef's menu on request. The vegetable menu is genuinely exciting. And like nothing available outside of Yountville.
The risotto mentioned in the review that's been on the menu for the past few months is genuinely extraordinary. And EXPENSIVE. And extraordinary.
And because I don't want Per Se to be The Box Tree I have to consider that like Frank Bruni, if I walk in the door I am recognized. And the prices are EXPENSIVE. And the Pretzel Rolls are perfection. And the Per Se team's hospitality, to a semi-frequent guest, is welcoming and correct. And please don't be The Box Tree.
http://events.nytimes.com/mem/nycreview.html?res=9F03EEDF1330F932A25750C...
Frank Bruni's original Per Se review referred to "this preening, peacock-vain newcomer." And at least once he thought that the Per Se team recognized him. And the vegetable menu tipped the restaurant into four star status.
On an early visit my lovely spouse, who doesn't drink alcohol, requested an alcohol-free drink pairing. The resulting parade was extraordinary. The drink with a corn dish featured a foamed beverage that was made from the milk and water liquid in which the corn had been poached.
On every subsequent visit my lovely spouse has, unasked, received a similarly spectacular pairing.
Each time I struggle with whether to order the chef's tasting menu or the vegetable menu. The vegetable menu usually wins but the team is always willing to swap out dishes from the chef's menu on request. The vegetable menu is genuinely exciting. And like nothing available outside of Yountville.
The risotto mentioned in the review that's been on the menu for the past few months is genuinely extraordinary. And EXPENSIVE. And extraordinary.
And because I don't want Per Se to be The Box Tree I have to consider that like Frank Bruni, if I walk in the door I am recognized. And the prices are EXPENSIVE. And the Pretzel Rolls are perfection. And the Per Se team's hospitality, to a semi-frequent guest, is welcoming and correct. And please don't be The Box Tree.
3
well, next time dine at Daniel, which has been unfairly deprived of its 3rd star
9
and it might not allow the prices to rise... what a deprivation!
1
100% agree. Daniel was far superior in taste, service, and atmosphere than Per Se. The Per Se meal was highly underwhelming and very overpriced.
5
OMG, this review is great reading!
91
Listen, we live in New York, we pay over $200 for a seat in a Broadway show and it doesn't get the same kind of scrutiny that eating in a fine restaurant does. Done right a good restaurant is worth every penny and those of us who do not patronize daily deserve to know when it goes wrong. It sounds as if it did here. Perhaps PerSe with get up off its laurels and get it together. In the mean time could the reviewer make a reservation over at Jean George? I'm still chuckling at the wine we were served that had gone off that they told me they served on purpose.
17
I know where I can do far better for a whole ton less dough. But I ain't sayin' squat because I don't want this place ruined.
6
Years ago I used to eat at Ma Maison on Melrose Boulevard in West Los Angeles. The food was fabulous and on any given afternoon you could see someone of importance sitting next to you. The carpeting? Well, that was astro turf that Patrick hosed down each evening. I never had a bad meal.
Wolfang Puck got his start their, and each day you could see Orsen Wells shuffle in to have his lunch. Great memories that were very affordable.
Wolfang Puck got his start their, and each day you could see Orsen Wells shuffle in to have his lunch. Great memories that were very affordable.
11
Ah yes. and Chasens and Romanoffs. On any given night you might be sitting next to the Sinatras or Martins, and I would always order what Frank had, the minute steak, rare.
1
Thank you.
i now have another reason to point and hoot at the 1% and their 'problems' for the minor cost of an NYT subscription.
Great fun!
i now have another reason to point and hoot at the 1% and their 'problems' for the minor cost of an NYT subscription.
Great fun!
27
Great writing. You had me at "bong water." Agree, Per Se has a great view.
31
And the people of Madaya are eating grass and boiled water. I am not sure just where the line of conspicuous consumption is, but this sure crosses it.
61
And many people have no electricity while you sit there making discretionary use of precious power to pontificate to others about their consumption.
Glass house much?
Glass house much?
2
This past Thursday my husband and made our annual trip to Manhattan. We always make reservations at one or two notable restaurants and see a Broadway play. Last week we saw "The Color Purple", we ate at Via Carota, and Felidia. The Color Purple was sparse and wonderful; simplified from the book and the movie. Via Carota was chosen from the NYT list 2015 notable restaurants. It was very good. As for our last choice- first we considered Del Posto, but we were put off by a $50 per person deposit in order to make a reservation and a 48 hour cancellation fee. (We travel to NYC by AMTRAK so our on time arrival is not guaranteed.) We chose Felidia from the Lydia website because it offered a very reasonable prix fixe lunch. It was WONDERFUL! Superb service without being stuffy. Delicious, imaginative food without being "strange". With wonderful wine by the glass, espresso, and a few supplement choices we ate our way up to a bit under $160 for lunch, including service. Plus as we left, we met and chatted with Lidia herself. A delightful luncheon afternoon!
26
Meanwhile--in Syria….
34
You took the time to read this review and comment on it, right? So, clearly, you too are voluntarily engaging in things other than lamenting the sorry state of humanity and its war-torn world.
Pete Wells's job is to review restaurants. Per Se's job is to be superb and extraordinary, to deliver something wonderful and special in exchange for huge amounts of money. Wells did his job, reviewed it, and found that it was bad. He's not complaining, or claiming that the poor quality of a restaurant is as important as loss of life and freedom in a war zone; he's telling people who voluntarily read his restaurant review what the place was like when he repeatedly dined there.
Pete Wells's job is to review restaurants. Per Se's job is to be superb and extraordinary, to deliver something wonderful and special in exchange for huge amounts of money. Wells did his job, reviewed it, and found that it was bad. He's not complaining, or claiming that the poor quality of a restaurant is as important as loss of life and freedom in a war zone; he's telling people who voluntarily read his restaurant review what the place was like when he repeatedly dined there.
29
Margaret - Please, get off your high horse. Even the Bible says "the poor will always be with us" and "charity begins at home." So true, as without the 1% or whatever, who will be able to give lots of alms? And as to Syria - Shiites have been killing Sunnis - and vice versa - for a thousand years and more, and will do so whatever diners at Per Se do. Relax and smell a truffle. We all believe God is all-powerful, omnipotent. So for Pete (Well)'s sake, accept Syria as His will.
7
Love that Mr. Wells worked in "as appealing as bong water" in his candid review!
8
All right, Pete Wells! Telling it like it is! Leading the sacred cows to slaughter! "As murky and appealing as bong water," "paired with a slick of cold oatmeal" -- well-put! An evocative & precise review, long overdue. Hopefully Mr. Keller takes heed.
18
I find this review inexplicable, having eaten at per se as recently as early November 2015. I have enjoyed roughly a half dozen meals at per se over the years and never failed to leave satisfied. Pete Wells - what is your agenda? You effusively praise Senor Frog's and now this? This just does not ring true to me. Frank Bruni - please come back, the dining section needs you.
PS to the people shaming those of us who choose to spend our money eating at a place like per se, please spare me your histrionics. It's nauseating. You're probably the same folk who comment negatively on the high calorie count of a Melissa Clark recipe. Ridiculous.
PS to the people shaming those of us who choose to spend our money eating at a place like per se, please spare me your histrionics. It's nauseating. You're probably the same folk who comment negatively on the high calorie count of a Melissa Clark recipe. Ridiculous.
15
FTW! Well said, CJ. Could not agree more with every point you make.
Not all of us have enjoyed Per Se. We are not that hard to please, but our experience was disappointing.
8
Agree about the calorie shamers. So much fat! So many calories! Sin, sin, sin! Tiresome.
3
Next time try the diner where waiters work hard for tips and chefs cook genuine food in abundance. Say hello to the owner--probably the one at the cash register. Always get the coffee. Nothing better. Take out a $20 and get change. Delightful every time.
20
My wife and I took her parents here for their anniversary shortly after it opened. Years later, my in-laws still talk about it. I'm sorry to hear that Per Se is no longer the same place, but I'll never regret paying off my credit card for months after that dinner. It was the best $2000 I ever spent.
6
Finally!
We have been to Per Se a few times, and the fact I had several dishes I did not want to finish eating (despite the exorbirent price) just made me feel that the restaurant does not deserve so many stars. I remember being angry at spending my birthday dinner there not feeling like finishing all (for one reason or another). For laymen, our yardstick is its own palete, and I never had that unpleasant experience at full star restaurants around the world. If it's good you can eat 12 course meal because you don't want to miss that amazing experience. Service may not be perfect at all times but curinary experience should be perfect, and thanks to the NYT for being honest about Per Se. I think their food innovation has been mediocre and unadventurous, and they heavily rely on corporate money clients with no deserning taste, and their purpose of existence is to fulfill their formula driven expectation as opposed to re-thinking about why on earth customers are leaving food on plates unfinished. That should not happen in full star restaurants. I think it's that simple. It was time for downgrade.
We have been to Per Se a few times, and the fact I had several dishes I did not want to finish eating (despite the exorbirent price) just made me feel that the restaurant does not deserve so many stars. I remember being angry at spending my birthday dinner there not feeling like finishing all (for one reason or another). For laymen, our yardstick is its own palete, and I never had that unpleasant experience at full star restaurants around the world. If it's good you can eat 12 course meal because you don't want to miss that amazing experience. Service may not be perfect at all times but curinary experience should be perfect, and thanks to the NYT for being honest about Per Se. I think their food innovation has been mediocre and unadventurous, and they heavily rely on corporate money clients with no deserning taste, and their purpose of existence is to fulfill their formula driven expectation as opposed to re-thinking about why on earth customers are leaving food on plates unfinished. That should not happen in full star restaurants. I think it's that simple. It was time for downgrade.
29
I am not wealthy enough to dine here, but I would not go anywhere that served cold cheese!
19
Thank you for this. Now I know that better than to eat at Per Se is to go say to Maine for the weekend and gorge on Lobster. I no longer feel as if I am missing something. BTW Degustibus non est disputandum. Re the wine.
8
With their "signature" ingredients, mini-portions, and astronomical prices, this is clearly a place for people who aren't hungry.
16
Sir, I dont know if you have eaten at Per Se before because the comment shows you know nothing about this place. A dinner at Per Se is usually about 3-4 hours long, consisting 8/9 courses, plus amuse bouche, canapes, even petit fours. Per Se is famous for serving TOO MUCH food, as everyone gets too full after their meal. Thanks for the comment, but just like this review, they are both non-sense on the internet.
2
To Jason, above --
You are correct about the time required, but with the tweezer – served portions, even seven or nine courses over four hours results in my hunger cycle starting again by the end! Not only that, but I detest the agonizing marathon of sitting for up to four hours. On many occasions in my life I have experienced endless tasting menus at top restaurants, on OPM (other people's money). Now, in my 50s, I decline to engage in this sort of dining even when it is free to me. There's just something so Late Roman Empire about it.
You are correct about the time required, but with the tweezer – served portions, even seven or nine courses over four hours results in my hunger cycle starting again by the end! Not only that, but I detest the agonizing marathon of sitting for up to four hours. On many occasions in my life I have experienced endless tasting menus at top restaurants, on OPM (other people's money). Now, in my 50s, I decline to engage in this sort of dining even when it is free to me. There's just something so Late Roman Empire about it.
2
Everyone's going on and on about Mr. Wells' cleverness with this review, particularly the "bong water" remark. Big deal. I read the words of someone who is trying too hard by half to write a "clever," memorable review.
The napkin-throwing behavior of his companion is beneath contempt, and I personally would be disgusted if the truffle shaved over my plate had just been under Mr. Wells' nose. And someone's chair was pushed back in too roughly? Seriously?
A year ago, my wife and I had an exceptional lunch at Per Se. The food was exemplary, and the service was outstanding. It was as though the waiters went out of their way to give us flawless service, yet be grounded and down to earth and personable at the same time.
I'm sorry to hear that things have deteriorated since then, but frankly Mr. Wells and his group sound like they deserved it.
The napkin-throwing behavior of his companion is beneath contempt, and I personally would be disgusted if the truffle shaved over my plate had just been under Mr. Wells' nose. And someone's chair was pushed back in too roughly? Seriously?
A year ago, my wife and I had an exceptional lunch at Per Se. The food was exemplary, and the service was outstanding. It was as though the waiters went out of their way to give us flawless service, yet be grounded and down to earth and personable at the same time.
I'm sorry to hear that things have deteriorated since then, but frankly Mr. Wells and his group sound like they deserved it.
25
Gary T
I agree with Zachary concerning the apparent attempt at cleverness by Mr. Wells in his review. On the other hand, the absurdly over priced food at Per Se deserves to be mocked for what it is: an insult to decency and common sense.
Particularly, when the cost of one meal could feed a family of four today for at least a week.
The French Revolution occurred as a result of excesses such as are the meals at Per Se
I agree with Zachary concerning the apparent attempt at cleverness by Mr. Wells in his review. On the other hand, the absurdly over priced food at Per Se deserves to be mocked for what it is: an insult to decency and common sense.
Particularly, when the cost of one meal could feed a family of four today for at least a week.
The French Revolution occurred as a result of excesses such as are the meals at Per Se
20
Someone from Brooklyn complaining that Manhattanites are insufferable? Oh, the irony.
29
At the prices mentioned I would expect service quality to be run like an symphony orchestra where the dining intent is expertly anticipated by the waitstaff. If the service experience falls short it certainly depreciates the dining experience. Couple that with inelegant pretentious food & it can convert anticipation into depression.
16
or perhaps served by the symphony orchestra?
2
One problem with dining at Michelin-Starred restaurants is that there is no element of surprise, or at least pleasant surprise. Our expectation is set so high that nothing will please us, and anything could disappoint us.
I prefer a serendipitous life, so I would rather march into a good but unknown restaurant.
I prefer a serendipitous life, so I would rather march into a good but unknown restaurant.
17
If it's unknown, how do you know it's good? Serendipity is stimulating, but pursuing it carries risk.
Risks is part of the pleasure. We are not risking our lives by walking into an unknown restaurant, most of the time.
I have no schadenfreude about Per Se, since Mr. Keller's restaurants are not meant for people like me so it does not exist. However, inattention to detail and customer is a kiss of death for fine restaurants that I can afford. How many restaurants at this level does Mr. Keller manage these days?
The Great Recession has introduced reality to many people, and many upscale restaurants have responded with adjunct places that serve great, non-precious and affordable food in portions that can be seen with the naked eye. That's where the value propositions are.
The Great Recession has introduced reality to many people, and many upscale restaurants have responded with adjunct places that serve great, non-precious and affordable food in portions that can be seen with the naked eye. That's where the value propositions are.
13
He actually has a small bistro and a bakery in Younville, where French Laundry is, it's called Bouchon.
3
How many of the people who eat at Per Se support the GOP proposal to cut SNAP benefits.
If people want to spend their money going to overpriced restaurants that is their business.
But that money should not come from tax cuts for the rich that are paid for by cutting SS and M benefits that the 99% people have already paid for.
If people want to spend their money going to overpriced restaurants that is their business.
But that money should not come from tax cuts for the rich that are paid for by cutting SS and M benefits that the 99% people have already paid for.
50
Actually, since the wealthy pay all of the taxes (top 1% - 40%, top 10% - 90%, top 50% - 100%), everything government benefit that you enjoy from the military, federal spending on education, welfare, to national parks are massively disproportionately paid for by high income tax payers.
2
If you include ALL taxes each income group pays the same fraction of their income as taxes.
You need to include the Social Security and Medicare payroll taxes, sales taxes, the portion of the corporate income tax that is passed on as higher prices, real estate tax [landlords pass on the real estate tax they pay as higher rents].
You need to include the Social Security and Medicare payroll taxes, sales taxes, the portion of the corporate income tax that is passed on as higher prices, real estate tax [landlords pass on the real estate tax they pay as higher rents].
6
I've eaten at Per Se, on my own dime. Not recently, because there are places I like better, but I've also spent more on dinners elsewhere.
I'm also a huge fan of Bernie Sanders, would vote for him in a general election, support a robust social safety net, have no family money, and have never complained about paying my taxes (to the fullest extent of my tax bracket with no pursuit of loopholes). There are a lot of people like me, eating like me, in this city.
I'm also a huge fan of Bernie Sanders, would vote for him in a general election, support a robust social safety net, have no family money, and have never complained about paying my taxes (to the fullest extent of my tax bracket with no pursuit of loopholes). There are a lot of people like me, eating like me, in this city.
24
When we lived in NYC (2009-2012), my wife and I had only one regular hobby - on Friday night, we ate Michelin stars. Every weekend, we went down the list and tried each of the restaurants in Manhattan with 1, 2, or 3 stars in the holy red book.
Our dinner at per se (2011) was, and it wasn't even close, the most expensive meal I have ever paid for. And we were people who made a point of eating expensive food every weekend. $1,492 for 2 people - tasting menu with all supplements, wine pairings, and (oddly) some other addition that neither my wife nor I remember.
Point was -- we had a fine time. Service was fantastic, view was amazing, food was clearly 2-or-3 Michelin star quality. Was it worth $1,492? Of course not. Don't be ridiculous.
Our dinner at per se (2011) was, and it wasn't even close, the most expensive meal I have ever paid for. And we were people who made a point of eating expensive food every weekend. $1,492 for 2 people - tasting menu with all supplements, wine pairings, and (oddly) some other addition that neither my wife nor I remember.
Point was -- we had a fine time. Service was fantastic, view was amazing, food was clearly 2-or-3 Michelin star quality. Was it worth $1,492? Of course not. Don't be ridiculous.
59
Was it the restaurant's policy to make bills equal great dates in World history?
3
Just curious -- did you leave the waitstaff a $300 tip on almost $1500?
2
Glad you asked, I went back and found the credit card statement. The $1,492 included the tax and tip. I should not have omitted that on my original post.
1
She hurled her napkin to the floor because she was disappointed in a world-class restaurant? Wow. She doesn't have any real problems, does she?
75
Above $50 for a main course, you are entering the realm of diminishing returns in my book.
40
All I can say is wow!! Per Se has really fallen in quality and service. 2 stars is a complete downgrade from 4 stars. But, I will not cancel Per Se out yet because they will improve rather quickly.
2
The review reads like it should have gotten one star.
12
Ah! This reminds me of the story of "The Emperor's New Clothes".
8
The problem with this kind of "cuisine" is that one flaw reveals every pretension. And there is much pretension in such "cuisine." Better to have coq au vin or else something basic/classic, not worry, and just enjoy.
15
I am sorry that you have to eat out with a spoiled brat who would throw her napkin on the floor in a hissy fit, and expect a waiter to pick it up for her. Yuk.
56
Yes, these guests sound as insufferable as the waiters (according to Wells). Guess they all deserve each other!
3
The problem with such unreasonably overpriced restaurants is that they often attract certain crowds, so both the clients and the restaurateurs feed off each other's pretentiousness. Sad.
4
I've been to Per Se a few times now along with Daniel and a number of other michelin stars. Bocuse in Lyon is my favorite. Per Se and Daniel attempt to aspire to such but fail to do so. Hilariously, when I go to NYC these days my favorite place is not really all that outlandish, yet has enough French-ness to it to enjoy..plus it's a time capsule onto its own...Le Veau D'or. Maybe I'm getting older, I certainly use to love to book a flight and head over to the newest michelin star or popularized restaurant. Nowadays...I'll just wait for the cookbook to come out and attempt to make the stuff at home as I prefer to cook my own meals. Collecting cookbooks (ideally out of print) and friending local farmers to collect odd bits like calf's head for stew, or pig's blood for boudin noir. I won't say I cook as well as the staff at Bocuse but I certainly try. It's not only more economical, it's just a fun hobby. Also, I can usually source the wines that restaurants like Per Se have listed and get for cheaper. Why only buy one after all?
8
I had the happiest meal of my life, so far, at Le Veau d'Or, during a blizzard in 2007. We were made to feel entirely at home, even as the storm closed the city down.
5
Thank you. Our experience, exactly. They have been victimizing their guests for quite some time now.
17
I suspect that all these chefs and their cafes who have sold their souls to the Food Network are finding the great unwashed, perhaps not massed, but turning up, at their doors regularly. Perhaps they have made a choice about the need for truly fine service or food based on a new demographic.
1
Seriously? They made their food mediocre because the wrong sorts of wealthy people can eat there now? Oy. That is not what a world class restaurant does.
3
This review reads more like a zero-to-one star restaurant. With all the negative points, why even the two star (very good) rating?
10
I'm glad the waiter didn't let you sniff someone else's shaved truffles! To me that's one point for the servers.
45
People astonished at the money spent researching this article, please relax. Number one, as a cost of doing business, restaurant reviews are a tax write off for NYT - similar for instance to the cost of sending reporters into war zones - and monetizable as you and I engage with it and email it around to our friends. But number two and more important, similar to war reporters though not at all as vital or important, this kind of undercover reporting is a real public service - the NYT has alerted many to dine at this absolute California clip joint at our own risk; none can now say they weren't warned.
19
Did the New York Times really spend $9000 to write this review? And this is where my subscription money goes? $9000?
17
I'm not worried. Our subscriptions fund many more investigative pieces such as the last one about DuPont. I need a little comic relief!
1
Please note: The Colonel is an Op-Ed writer for the "Guardian" and writes on food from time to time after visits to NYC.
A restaurant has to be on constant guard against diminishing its standards as Per Se has done in NYC. It's part carelessness and part ego on the part of the owner. Notice the prices did not vary as did the food and quality of service.
The Colonel has eaten at Per Se just twice, and not recently.
It will now go into the dining-in-NYC guide as another restaurant that grew to be grander than its clients. There is no greater put off than a dining place that thinks its better than you are. -The Colonel
P.S. Congratulations to the writer of the article. It's exquisitely written.
A restaurant has to be on constant guard against diminishing its standards as Per Se has done in NYC. It's part carelessness and part ego on the part of the owner. Notice the prices did not vary as did the food and quality of service.
The Colonel has eaten at Per Se just twice, and not recently.
It will now go into the dining-in-NYC guide as another restaurant that grew to be grander than its clients. There is no greater put off than a dining place that thinks its better than you are. -The Colonel
P.S. Congratulations to the writer of the article. It's exquisitely written.
8
Bravo! An honest review of an hover-hyped restaurant. We went a few years ago and were disappointed with the food and service. Surprised it too so long for the NY Times to revise it's review. Thank you Mr. Wells!
15
Food deal? I don't think anyone goes to Per Se expecting any sort of "deal."
3
The the spoon ended up next to the glass!!! Say it isn't so, oh the horror.
29
The review is incongruous as the text suggest ONE start (or less!) even with the official demotion to 2 stars!!No surprise as one had a sense some time ago that the arrogance of Keller's name covered up woeful inadequacies., a"taste"of which we had with a horrible experience of his bistro in Yountville. Pity especially with the astronomical price.
4
Why does the newspaper that is constantly vilifying the richest of the rich, always write about topics that only appeal to the richest of the rich?
25
In Maine when you ask for a good restaurant they say it depends on who invites you. I still eat best at home and it does not cost tons of money.
How can you justify that kind of cost and you getting inferior food. No food is worth $3000. I commend the article for finally calling it for what it is. A rip off. One of my best meals out was a La Mediteranee in Paris and Le Petit Cambodge. It did not cost an arm and a leg. The food was fabulous.
How can you justify that kind of cost and you getting inferior food. No food is worth $3000. I commend the article for finally calling it for what it is. A rip off. One of my best meals out was a La Mediteranee in Paris and Le Petit Cambodge. It did not cost an arm and a leg. The food was fabulous.
13
Has it yet really occurred to anyone that each and every one of these high-end restaurants is really a castle in the air? Of course you're not going to get great service at ANY of these places past the six month mark.
4
Not true. On a recent trip to New York, I took myself to lunch at Le Bernardin and ate in the bar area. I didn't adore the food, but even in the bar area, I had the best and professional service I had ever had in any restaurant anywhere and I've eaten in a lot of "fancy" restaurants, including French Laundry (which I hated).
4
Six years ago, I took my wife to Per Se for our first wedding anniversary. We are not rich or big spenders, but I wanted to provide a memorable gift, and for her a meal at Per Se would be the equivalent of the Super Bowl. And my wife had a transcendent experience. Mention “oysters and pearls” or “butter-poached lobster” to her now, and you will see her transported back to that night, with the same giddy, everlasting memories I have when someone mentions “Game 6” and “David Freese” (I'm from St. Louis and love sports if you can't tell). It was a once in a lifetime experience.
Places like Per Se are reviewed frequently not in spite of their crazily expensive prices, but because of them. For many people, these are for special occasions, planned and budgeted for months in advance. I did not simply invest time and money; I also entrusted Per Se to create the defining memories of my first anniversary. It was absolutely worth the money.
It is with some sadness to know that there will now be someone else like me, looking for a once in a lifetime place, who will read this review and choose differently. But it is not a meaningless service to prevent someone from planning and saving money for months in anticipation of being provided with a cherished moment, who is instead left with memories of tough lobster and cold oatmeal.
Places like Per Se are reviewed frequently not in spite of their crazily expensive prices, but because of them. For many people, these are for special occasions, planned and budgeted for months in advance. I did not simply invest time and money; I also entrusted Per Se to create the defining memories of my first anniversary. It was absolutely worth the money.
It is with some sadness to know that there will now be someone else like me, looking for a once in a lifetime place, who will read this review and choose differently. But it is not a meaningless service to prevent someone from planning and saving money for months in anticipation of being provided with a cherished moment, who is instead left with memories of tough lobster and cold oatmeal.
63
Perplexed. Is it possible the critic was unrecognized, undoubtedly sour, and perhaps riding on the giddy, tequila-induced coat tails of his former review in Times Square to be so ill aligned as to write a scathing review? The truth in writing is gold. Taste, however, is priceless. This review lacks both, and leaves me questioning the credibility of this critic, yet again. An incomprehensible jab at an exceptional organization that has, in the luxuries it may possess, upheld "MODESTY" as an essential value.
Give us something great to read, Mr. Wells. Are you capable?
Give us something great to read, Mr. Wells. Are you capable?
7
What's truly incomprehensible is that you've provided no rational basis for the readers to doubt Mr. Well's review, other than you're a shill for Per Se or your own restaurant received a less than adequate review from this critic.
32
tough job. it must be close to impossible to dine at a place so ridiculously expensive, without sounding ridiculous yourself: did they really not let you sniff the truffle? Better luck next time.
11
Per so-so, perchance?
12
I visited Per Se in July of this year, and my experience mirrored the reviewers. We are not rich, so every such experience is an indulgence for us, and reserved for special occasions. At the start of service, I wanted to make a minor change to my dish, but then a few minutes later changed my mind. The waitress gave me a ton of attitude, and voice dripping with contempt said "she might be able to accommodate me". Being right at the start of service, it really threw us off, and put us in a sour mood for the rest of the evening. Such interactions with service are acceptable even in the lowliest of restaurants, and I wouldn't expect attitude in any scenario.
The food was good in parts, and average in others. The deserts were especially disappointing, with nothing really standing out. There was no single dish which really made me go "wow".
The food was good in parts, and average in others. The deserts were especially disappointing, with nothing really standing out. There was no single dish which really made me go "wow".
17
Since you claim that you are "not rich," why on earth did you pick this place?
Did you fall for the hype or are you a fan of the Food Network? New York City is chock full of fabulous neighborhood restaurants where you can dine at a fraction
of the cost and be made to feel welcome.
Did you fall for the hype or are you a fan of the Food Network? New York City is chock full of fabulous neighborhood restaurants where you can dine at a fraction
of the cost and be made to feel welcome.
1
Slightly tangential, but I was invited to lunch in Beverly Hills a month ago. I googled the place, Bouchon, and was excited to learn it was owned by Thomas Keller. Fond memories of eating at his esteemed restaurant in Napa.
We sat out on the patio, which had a limited menu. I decided on the tomato soup and a grilled cheese sandwich. Both were extremely disappointing, bland to the point of incredulity. And not cheap either. The place was packed, as I left I thought everyone there was a wealthy sucker with a palate that lacked any ability to discern great from bad, just happy to be seen eating at a fancy shmancy Thomas Keller joint in the middle of the Beverly Hills tourist district.
My aunt also had the tomato soup, a week later she asked me what I thought. I told her it was the worst I'd ever had, I could buy the boxed product from Trader Joe's, pour it in a bowl, and with a bit of seasoning make it far superior than what we had. She laughed, and couldn't agree more. We couldn't criticize the food while we were there as the place was selected by friends for a birthday party and we didn't want to insult their choice.
It'll be a long time before I consider eating at one of Mr. Keller's restaurants again, this review just confirms my experience. 2 stars? Reads like a no star joint.
We sat out on the patio, which had a limited menu. I decided on the tomato soup and a grilled cheese sandwich. Both were extremely disappointing, bland to the point of incredulity. And not cheap either. The place was packed, as I left I thought everyone there was a wealthy sucker with a palate that lacked any ability to discern great from bad, just happy to be seen eating at a fancy shmancy Thomas Keller joint in the middle of the Beverly Hills tourist district.
My aunt also had the tomato soup, a week later she asked me what I thought. I told her it was the worst I'd ever had, I could buy the boxed product from Trader Joe's, pour it in a bowl, and with a bit of seasoning make it far superior than what we had. She laughed, and couldn't agree more. We couldn't criticize the food while we were there as the place was selected by friends for a birthday party and we didn't want to insult their choice.
It'll be a long time before I consider eating at one of Mr. Keller's restaurants again, this review just confirms my experience. 2 stars? Reads like a no star joint.
31
I live in Beverly Hills and Bar Bouchon is horrible and overpriced. The only reason I ever go there is because I can take my large dog with me to eat on the patio.
9
I had a meal in Per Se back in September -- at a birthday party for a friend, paid for by one of the other guests -- and I thought the service exquisite but the food at times bizarre and at times just so-so. But I am puzzled. Why does Pete give two stars when his review is so very critical. Shouldn't this be one star at best, especially considering the poor value for money?
31
At $325 per person for four diners, that's $1,300 for food and service. With a $3,000 tab, I sure hope Pete and his guests enjoyed what I hope was some spectacular wine!
10
The opening paragraps indicate $3,000 was the total tab for a party of four.
Ken did the math right - they obviously splurged on some good wine or it doesn't add up!
The $325 per person was for the nine course meal + service. They also ordered extra courses including the risotto ($175) and the caviar ($75). I assume it would take more than nine courses to last four hours. Wine paired for each course could significantly bump up the total cost.
FYI, the $3,000 was for the meal for four. Mr. Wells never states that he spent the same amount each time.
The thoroughness of his examination of the menu over 3 visits would include dining alone, with a guest and with a group to gauge the consistency of the food and the service.
FYI, the $3,000 was for the meal for four. Mr. Wells never states that he spent the same amount each time.
The thoroughness of his examination of the menu over 3 visits would include dining alone, with a guest and with a group to gauge the consistency of the food and the service.
1
I had dinner at the French Laundry in August 1998 and It was just dandy. I was very young and solvent, and the world was my oyster. I was also very thin.
11
I am horrified to think that the NYT spent $9,000 - three meals at $3,000 a pop - to produce this (otherwise fine and fair) review. Surely that money could have been better spent elsewhere?
12
And they will all vote for Democrats who vilify income inequality, while in the meantime they and a good percentage of these voters are proud member of the top of the 1 per cent.
Ah, no, the total for all four diners was $3000. Still expensive, but that's the going rate at very high end resturants. Should the Times limit the places it reviews based on the price?
2
Sorry - my reply to Ken was meant to go with Jim's comment. $3,000 was the total tab for a party of four.
"Once, the table was set for dessert so haphazardly that my spoon ended up next to my water glass instead of my plate." Must be snowing in he!! tonight.
12
First world problems!
2
For $3k a person, I'd d-- well expect my table set right...
10
I went to Per Se 5 years ago the first night I was married and my experience was memorable for all the wrong reasons. The servers and sommeliers were obnoxious and the food really didn't wow. I still don't trust restaurants that include gratuity because of it. Glad the Times finally rated Per Se based on what it is and not its reputation
21
Now I get to humblebrag to friends about how "I remember eating at Per Se back when it was cool and 4 starts..."
8
I thing humblebraging is saying something modest or self-effacing in the hopes that it draws attention to something that you are actually proud of. What you are doing is just bragging.
3
My god. Twelve hundred bucks is my food budget for our entire family of four for six weeks. And that's a very generous food budget. Keller seems to be looking for nothing more than dinners as modern day Marie Antoinettes.
19
The other day, while crossing Minnesota, my wife and I stopped at McDonald's. We took advantage of their 2 for $2 special and ordered a couple of hot and spicy chicken sandwiches and a couple of cups of "eau du lac" at no additional charge. We were hungry and enjoyed those sandwiches hugely. We felt that we had hit the jackpot. Our humble $2 meal was a joy. It earned a well-deserved five star rating from two happy diners.
21
That stuff isn't food and is killing you. Please quit doing that to yourself and your family immediately.
There had to be a local place that would have served you real food.
There had to be a local place that would have served you real food.
15
I have never found any direct correlation between how much I spent at a restaurant and how much fun I had at the meal.
66
Per∙suasive — the vicarious experience without the enormous expense.
The ethical argument caused by the lack of affection for the craft translates directly into aesthetic effect, the lack of taste . What will Mr. Keller do?
Skip the appetizer, for entrée I suggest reading John Berger's "The eaters and the eaten" — http://zesterdaily.com/cooking/tasters-vs-eaters-fine-dining-menu-war/
"… the peasant way of eating is centred on the act of eating itself and on the food eaten … Whereas the bourgeois way of eating is centred on fantasy, ritual and spectacle. The first can complete itself in satisfaction; the second is never complete and gives rise to an appetite which, in essence, is insatiable."
The ethical argument caused by the lack of affection for the craft translates directly into aesthetic effect, the lack of taste . What will Mr. Keller do?
Skip the appetizer, for entrée I suggest reading John Berger's "The eaters and the eaten" — http://zesterdaily.com/cooking/tasters-vs-eaters-fine-dining-menu-war/
"… the peasant way of eating is centred on the act of eating itself and on the food eaten … Whereas the bourgeois way of eating is centred on fantasy, ritual and spectacle. The first can complete itself in satisfaction; the second is never complete and gives rise to an appetite which, in essence, is insatiable."
14
$3000.00 for dinner? Dinning with someone who throws their napkin on the floor in a fit of anger? Dinner 3 times at 3k? The NY Times has lost its way.
24
Again, yawn. Per Se exists. People eat there. Get over it. The Times cannot review a restaurant after eating there once. The Times does us a service and entertains us-- and in so doing, perhaps saves many others the cost of a mediocre over-priced meal.
26
On numerous occasions, I have been disappointed by meals at restaurants in NYC that critics have raved about in the Times and elsewhere. Much of that disappointment stemmed from a feeling that the restaurant, after achieving "greatness," had gone on auto-pilot. And, yes, some of that disappointment is related to the high prices. I think that any diner who spends a couple of hundred of dollars (or more) for a meal deserves perfect - or pretty close to it - every time. I hope this is the first of many reviews Mr. Wells will do revisiting some of NY's top restaurants. Maybe the fear of losing starts will encourage the chefs and managers to pay more attention.
31
Hysterically funny. From the companion throwing her napkin in a little fit and waiting for a new one to be delivered, to the hissy fit about the silverware by the water glass and not the plate, to the idea of sitting there for hours being served little bit after little bit of overrich food.
I might do it if someone paid me $750, but probably I wouldn't make it through. My heavens, do people really act like this? they all need something useful to do, merchants and purchasers.
I might do it if someone paid me $750, but probably I wouldn't make it through. My heavens, do people really act like this? they all need something useful to do, merchants and purchasers.
23
It's kinda amusing how no one seems to get that the dropped napkin was an intentional test of service.
17
"hurled in a fit of disillusionment" whatever that means. if it means that because one is spending &750 one expects bowing and scraping, the whole thing is rather silly. Or worse, a fantasy of living as a regal. Whold her stays burst if she picked up the thing herself?
Funny, maybe no one gets that because the reviewed STATED that the napkin was dropped in anger and disappointment. A "test" is a good excuse, though, after the fact…after commenters point out the tone-deafness...
On a trip to NYC a couple years ago my wife and I were killing time at the Time Warner Center before our lunch at Jean Georges next door. We happened upon Per Se and before I knew it, the automatic door slid open. We walked into the nearly deserted restaurant as the hostess approached. We inquired as to the cost of lunch, to which she said something like $325 price fix. I summoned by inner Lebowski and told her I had to find a cash machine.
8
Did the New York Times pay $3000 for this meal?
I'm curious, in this time of shrinking media budgets, it seems expensive.
If someone knows how this works, please reply.
I'm curious, in this time of shrinking media budgets, it seems expensive.
If someone knows how this works, please reply.
8
Do you really think 3,000 is a lot of money for the nyt? How much do you think a writer makes in new york pr a last minute floght to africa costs to cover a story? Should the nyt not cover the expensive restaurants in new york? 3,000 is absolutely nothing for a major media organization.
6
Dear Mr. Wells,
Your line "as murky and appealing as bong water" was delicious! I like to read about restaurants that are ordinarily beyond my budget. Once in a blue moon, I have been known to splurge (i.e. lavishly celebrate a milestone). I assume that the excessively high price of your meal was due to the necessary sampling of as many dishes as possible over a four hour period. The high prices of Per Se offer an implied contract with their diners: superior food, service and atmosphere. Improper placement of tableware may seem a minor infraction, but that, along with empty wine glasses, arguments and roughly shoved chairs violates that contract, and leaves a bad taste in one's mouth. What a shame it would be for a couple celebrating their fiftieth wedding anniversary with an extravagant romantic evening to have such an experience. The 1%-ers will not care about this review because spending large amounts doesn't matter to them, but when the average person ventures into this realm, your reviews give great guidance. Thank you.
Your line "as murky and appealing as bong water" was delicious! I like to read about restaurants that are ordinarily beyond my budget. Once in a blue moon, I have been known to splurge (i.e. lavishly celebrate a milestone). I assume that the excessively high price of your meal was due to the necessary sampling of as many dishes as possible over a four hour period. The high prices of Per Se offer an implied contract with their diners: superior food, service and atmosphere. Improper placement of tableware may seem a minor infraction, but that, along with empty wine glasses, arguments and roughly shoved chairs violates that contract, and leaves a bad taste in one's mouth. What a shame it would be for a couple celebrating their fiftieth wedding anniversary with an extravagant romantic evening to have such an experience. The 1%-ers will not care about this review because spending large amounts doesn't matter to them, but when the average person ventures into this realm, your reviews give great guidance. Thank you.
74
My God, so many of the comments on here are ridiculous. It's simple people, Pete Wells is a critic who is also charged with re-reviewing places of note. This one deals with a somewhat groundbreaking and theatrical restaurant that also happens to be very expensive. It asks one question: Is it worth it? It's not apparently.
But to pontificate about the 1% and how could anyone spend that much etc. is just missing the point. It's no different than a car review of a Tesla or Rolls Royce that breaks down.
But to pontificate about the 1% and how could anyone spend that much etc. is just missing the point. It's no different than a car review of a Tesla or Rolls Royce that breaks down.
112
And nobody really needs a Rolls Royce either.
1
I will sleep very well tonight knowing that even the 1% occasionally get ripped off. Thoroughly enjoyed reading this piece and being informed that those who daily demean the rest of us get to experience disappointment for themselves.
25
The best thing about that is: because they paid so much, they will tell themselves it's been an amazing experience. I see this in the art world. Overinflated pricing will sprinkle angel-pony-dust on anything, and you can be sure that nine out of ten that are used to paying this ridiculous amount of money can't distinguish a hamburger from truffle-oil-laden rapini/duck involtini. While we can gloat at the ignorance, it's all plain depressing. What a world this has become.
10
Many people who frequent these establishments, and even those of lesser "quality," are rather unpleasant to deal with in any situation or occasion. The review begins with a customer who sounds a tad (I'm being generous here) obnoxious. The waiter did very well to not engage and merely acknowledges her distaste for the napkin by removing it from the floor onto which she "hurled" it.
Food is food. It ranges in tastes and prices. It ranges in quantity and quality. It ranges in time and density.
Perhaps the reviewer and his clique is simply bored. Nobody needs to pay $3,000 for a meal for four. There are plenty of restaurants. It seems as though the reviewer would like to design the menu at Per Se. Perhaps it would have been better to open a restaurant.
Food is food. It ranges in tastes and prices. It ranges in quantity and quality. It ranges in time and density.
Perhaps the reviewer and his clique is simply bored. Nobody needs to pay $3,000 for a meal for four. There are plenty of restaurants. It seems as though the reviewer would like to design the menu at Per Se. Perhaps it would have been better to open a restaurant.
8
Bad service at Per Se is like a cop lying under oath compared to a citizen lying. The punishment should be swift and more severe. There's a seductive arrogance to charging insane prices for special culinary delights. Though it magically instills a following, a unspoken trust, once broken, turn in the badge, turn off the ovens. No excuse for slip ups, ever.
19
Curious to know how Mr. Wells justifies awarding even 2 stars. There were a couple of paragraphs describing 3 or 4 excellent dishes. Was that it?
14
Never been there or will be since I can't afford it. However, your review was extremely useful to teach my children biting use of language and power of words.
Thank you for giving my family a teachable moment.
Thank you for giving my family a teachable moment.
18
Mr. Wells, this may eclipse your review of Guy Fieri's restaurant. I truly cherish your writing.
20
I think Per Se needs to think about getting a new staff. There are plenty of people out there who would be extremely grateful to have a job there and make the kind of money they make. So perhaps they need to do a "housecleaning" ala Chik-Fil-A. Shut the place down and clean house!
5
The reviewer says he visited the restaurant three times to reach his conclusions. Am I to understand that The New York Times spent a combined $9,000 in order to produce this review?
26
Well, presumably the earlier visits took place before the price went up. So, no.
2
Ouch! We'll know this review had a lasting impact when there is a Groupon deal for dinner for 2 at Per Se.
39
Groupon might be in the mix, after a drop from 4 stars down to 2. I wonder if that has happened in NYT history.
2
I am not sure how this ended up even as a two-star review (which is supposed to denote "very good"). Cushioning the fall?
16
Surely Mr. Wells could have conjured softer words to convey his dining experience at Per Se.
Why?
28
Does anyone else remember the S&M restaurant "La Femme Justine?" it had a menu with service options that included 'infant fayre in a high chair" (for the diaper crowd), food served on the floor in a dog bowl, and good-old all-American options like being served on a cage, being used as serving furniture, etc. For a fee you could even enlist the help to enforce your treatment.
Never went myself but a least you got what you paid for servicewise (I had friends who both worked and played there). The food apparently wasn't half bad either.
Never went myself but a least you got what you paid for servicewise (I had friends who both worked and played there). The food apparently wasn't half bad either.
6
Yes, I went there once many years ago. I believe it was called La Nouvelle Justine? Food was decent, although can't remember what I had. It was a truly bizarre dining experience to watch a fellow diner get shackled and playfully whipped between courses. Eventually it became more of a tourist destination, sort of like what eventually happened to Lucky Cheng's.
2
Dinner for four at "close to $3,000"?
Why not just burn $100 bills a la Vanderbilt and the Age of Excess? Flaunting the same level of excess and contempt for the 'little people'!
Why not just burn $100 bills a la Vanderbilt and the Age of Excess? Flaunting the same level of excess and contempt for the 'little people'!
16
First-world problems that are far, far away from my mind ...
6
Per Se??? I can only imagine what type of people eat there with a name like Per Se! Please pour me another class of Petrus 85'!
5
I'll have to forward this review to my friends who, a few years ago, offered to pick up the bill for four dining at Per Se and were shocked beyond belief at the $1,200 total. (This was without service added, so that doesn't include the $150 or so to the waitstaff.)
4
Your friends have been telling you a tall tale. Service has been included at Per Se since it opened. Furthermore, a $150 gratuity on a $1200 tab, absent gross malfeasance in the service, would be insulting at any full service restaurant, at any price point, on this coast, the other coast, and anywhere in between.
It's fine to think that the prices are extortionate, but the pricing at Per Se, including supplements, is clearly indicated in advance. Even had your friends arrived at Per Se's doorstep apparently clueless about what they were getting into, they would have known within two minutes, and should have left. There would have been no shame in that. But I suspect it's more likely this story is apocryphal.
It's fine to think that the prices are extortionate, but the pricing at Per Se, including supplements, is clearly indicated in advance. Even had your friends arrived at Per Se's doorstep apparently clueless about what they were getting into, they would have known within two minutes, and should have left. There would have been no shame in that. But I suspect it's more likely this story is apocryphal.
5
My apologies--a correction. Service included began at Per Se in 2005. Perhaps your friends ate there more than 10 years ago. I do believe, however, that prior to 2005, the prix fixe per person was less than $200.
3
I made a false assumption then about service not being included in their bill. I believe my friends had no idea of how high the menu items were or how quickly the bill would add up to that amount.
Like many people who eat in such restaurants, they barely glance at the right side of the menu.
Like many people who eat in such restaurants, they barely glance at the right side of the menu.
Thank you for an honest review, Pete Wells.
I will now cancel my Valentine's Day dinner for 2 with my wife at Per Se.
I'm just hoping Senor Frog's has an opening for Feb. 14 at 7 PM....
I will now cancel my Valentine's Day dinner for 2 with my wife at Per Se.
I'm just hoping Senor Frog's has an opening for Feb. 14 at 7 PM....
34
Is the "service added" at the standard 15%? If so, a good guess might be that that became standard operating procedure after customers were "stiffing" the staff by offering, say, only $200 tip on a $3,000 bill.
2
Service has been included at Per Se since it opened.
One also cannot say that 15% is "the standard" tip in NYC. There are many who will argue whether standard is now 15% or 20% at restaurants generally. However, for fine dining restaurants in NYC, 20% has been the standard for several years (with diners who can afford it and believe it warranted often leaving more).
One also cannot say that 15% is "the standard" tip in NYC. There are many who will argue whether standard is now 15% or 20% at restaurants generally. However, for fine dining restaurants in NYC, 20% has been the standard for several years (with diners who can afford it and believe it warranted often leaving more).
My apologies--a correction. Service included began at Per Se in September 2005.
When we were there a few years ago, in all fairness, the food and service were beyond exemplary. Okay, one or two dishes could have been more attractive but the night was darn near perfect. At the very end my honesty was put to the test as the main waitress presented me with the check and our $350 bottle of vintage Bollinger was not on the bill. Biting my lower lip, I did bring this to the person's attention and needless to say, she was extraordinarily grateful. Of course no free drink. Not a big deal but it was odd that a place of this caliber could leave one third the price off the check.
8
That would have come out of a server's pocket if you had not spoken up. But yes, the server should have given you a little something as a thank you, like an extra cookie in your goodie bag.
11
The last time I ate at Per Se was 3 years ago, so I can't attest to the accuracy of Pete Wells' review. But a 2 star review means the restaurant is very good, which I think summarizes his review. Some dishes are extraordinary, and some are horrible. I don't think the stars incorporate value into their rating.
4
Slide 8: Love the band aid. I think I'm going to hurl.
4
Just one question: Aren't these people embarrassed to report that they just spent $3,000 on dinner? Out here in the real world, the whole idea seems nauseating.
20
this restaurant is for NY elites, not peons.
4
It's totally surprising to have so how many Bernie's fans reading a review of Per Se... Isn't it a bit incongruous that this subject has attracted so many outraged populist ankle-biters?
4
Why? Bernie fans eat at Per Se too.
4
Two nights ago I watched a network news report on the starving people besieged in Syria. Thomas Keller should hand over millions to the UN Food Programme or to Doctors without Borders, who are valiantly trying to help these poor souls, some of them children.
21
Cast aside your righteous indignation at Pete Wells' 3k bill. He earned the right to skewer Per Se when he wrote, "is there a long refrigerated tunnel that servers have to pass through to make sure...that the French fries are also served cold?"
In a world so polarized we should rejoice that one writer serves us all such juicy bites in an egalitarian manner. He reminds us that the .1 percent and the 90 percent have one thing in common. Both are often victims of overnighted egos and under performing kitchens.
So, when skewer you must in Pete we trust.
In a world so polarized we should rejoice that one writer serves us all such juicy bites in an egalitarian manner. He reminds us that the .1 percent and the 90 percent have one thing in common. Both are often victims of overnighted egos and under performing kitchens.
So, when skewer you must in Pete we trust.
108
"the .1 percent and the 90 percent have one thing in common. Both are often victims of overnighted egos and under-performing kitchens."
No. Only the .1 percent are so "victimized." Besides, they have the power to do something about it, beyond hoping and praying that their man gets elected and is afterward willing and able to carry out his campaign promises.
No. Only the .1 percent are so "victimized." Besides, they have the power to do something about it, beyond hoping and praying that their man gets elected and is afterward willing and able to carry out his campaign promises.
2
Pete, thank you for your review! You have validated our experience at Per Se. We saved and planned for a beautiful anniversary dinner and, like you, found the experience quite disappointing. Lobster overdone, the eggplant salad repulsive and the supplemental charges outrageous. Kudos to the pastry chef...desserts were great. Give me Le Bernardin or any of Daniel's restaurants anytime. We will never return and have shared our pricey and dismal dining experience with many of our friends. We were so surprised to hear their responses...."never again" was a common response.
38
" ... this grand, hermetic, self-regarding, ungenerous restaurant ..."
Sounds like the same description would do for the woman who threw down her napkin. I don't care how frustrated and upset you might be, save your tantrums for your own home, not public spaces.
Looks like Per Se and its clientele are all of a piece.
Sounds like the same description would do for the woman who threw down her napkin. I don't care how frustrated and upset you might be, save your tantrums for your own home, not public spaces.
Looks like Per Se and its clientele are all of a piece.
10
So, the price of petulance is greater than three thousand dollars. I did not know that.
3
I am incredibly annoyed by all the "holier-than-thous" who think it is a moral sin to spend $3,000 on a meal. Everyone is entitled to spend their money on the things that bring them joy. For some, that is a fancy meal. For those complaining that this money could go to feed others -- it does. Paying for these meals provides living wages to the servers at restaurants like this and jobs to farmers growing and raising high-end food that otherwise might be too expensive to grow or raise. In fact, if anything, this shows that the relevance of the inequality gap is completely overblown. I see people mention that they could get just as good a meal in Ohio for $11. If that is true, then this is one area where the 99% are in no worse position than the 1%. People who can't afford this meal can still eat -- even if it is more cheaply. The rich are not getting a vital life benefit that others don't receive. Apparently the only benefit to being super rich is the ability to overpay for a meal that the other 99% don't even want anyway. So why should I worry about how much more the 1% have if what they are buying is not a necessity or even valued by you?
52
"high-end food that otherwise might be too expensive to grow or raise"
Now, there is an interesting concept: food grown or raised for no other purpose than to cater to the tastes of the very wealthy.
It's the American way!
Now, there is an interesting concept: food grown or raised for no other purpose than to cater to the tastes of the very wealthy.
It's the American way!
3
Seriously? A restaurant needs to charge that much to provide a "living wage" for its employees? I don't think so.
6
Yes, but these folks will be first up against the wall when the revolution comes, as they say.
1
Wait, you paid $3000, and your spoon ended up next to your water glass instead of your plate?! I hope you summoned the waiter and requested a repositioning.
20
The astute Mr. Keller's overpaid and self-important marks have been the medium for this ongoing skewering work of art for quite some time now, paying him handsomely to be mocked and thereby proving the art's worth. But all bubbles burst. So much for this gag Tom; on to the next.
2
Why does Pete Wells make us wade through this excoriatingly dismissive review and give Per Se two stars? The legend below the ratings indicates this means "very good." The lengthy and laborious review makes it clear that the place deserves a zero star or one star rating, at best.
20
Mr. Wells is Antoine Eagle (of the movie Ratatouille) in real life:).
2
Ate there in October and (though I don't usually see eye-to-eye with Mr. Wells) only one word comes to mind: amen!
16
Thank you Mr. Wells for pointing out the emperor has no clothes! As recent arrivals to the Bay Area from Seattle by the way of NYC we were excited to eat at all the Keller properties. We have now eaten at French Laundry, Ad Hoc, Bouchon and his pop-up Ad Lib. We were disappointed in each but thought we had just caught them all on off days. We are optimists, what can I say. The most outrageously bad Keller experience was AdLib. The food was horrible, the service snotty, the music deafening and TK glides to a chosen table in blinding kitchen whites to make a Caesar while his nose is in the air and he refuses to acknowledge any of his customers including the table he is serving. It is clear his ego is now much larger than his talents.
21
I don't disparage one for indulging in the extravagant. Fine cuisine and service is a form of artistry and should be enjoyed and savored. That said- it's refreshing that the Times gave a frank and honest review. Fair warning to the others that dwell in complacency.
14
"Fine cuisine and service is a form of artistry and should be enjoyed and savored."
But not by _tout le monde_, of course. A federal subsidy to allow the lower orders to enjoy life as their betters do would be unconscionable. The hoi polloi are fortunate to be granted food stamps.
But not by _tout le monde_, of course. A federal subsidy to allow the lower orders to enjoy life as their betters do would be unconscionable. The hoi polloi are fortunate to be granted food stamps.
1
A great piece of reviewing. Pete. Wells has captured a quintessential New York experience.
9
"Once, the table was set for dessert so haphazardly that my spoon ended up next to my water glass instead of my plate." The Dowager Grantham is rolling over in her grave.
10
Wait. She's still alive in my home.
8
She's dead?
2
This article is so vindicating! We had a negative experience at Per Se some years back- an overly long, tortured, lackluster outing. Our server was actually lovely, but she couldn't make up for several mediocre dishes and the painfully slow pace of dishes coming out. We haven't been back.
7
At the French Laundry one had to be prepared for a marathon of dishes, sauces and wine that ultimately required a white flag for "no mas". That much rich food is just not enjoyable to me. Per Se is no different. Here in Chicago Alinea and Next produce the same result. The talent and creativity are undeniable but the quantities are too much. The bill is another matter.
2
Maybe the best line in food review ever-- "but it definitely wasn’t a lukewarm matsutake mushroom bouillon as murky and appealing as bong water."
34
Actually, the best line ever is Pete Wells' description of gin's resurgent popularity: "Gin never really went away; it just stumbled into the bedroom and passed out on top of the coats." He wrote that almost 20 years ago and I've eagerly looked for his byline ever since.
1
I have eaten at Per Se at least two three times a year since its inception. I found this review total untrue in every respect. I have found that reviewers love to bring down really terrific places down as much as they can for shock value and to increase their readership which is why I never read reviews and rely on my friends to inform me. I read this one because I thought I might learn something about Per Se instead I learned quite a bit about the critic.
3
or perhaps you're an easily fooled tourist?
3
I was taken to Per Se years ago as a "thank you" business dinner. We could only get into the second seating at 9. I hate eating late and I'm not a fan of multiple course tasting menus or hovering wait staff. By the time we were served we were all exhausted from a long work day. I don't remember anything we ate or drank—all I recall was how painful the entire experience was. Even as a splurge meal, I don't understand spending this kind of money on rich, overly fussy food (foie gras! lobster! truffles!) that offers little in creativity. I don't know anyone who enjoys eating this way any more.
30
Sounds like napkin lady has been watching a little too much Downton Abbey.
Sorry honey, you drop your nappie, you pickie it uppie!
Sorry honey, you drop your nappie, you pickie it uppie!
14
"In 2004, the year Per Se opened, the price for nine courses was $150 before tax and tip; last week, it went up to $325"
Well, come on now, it's 12 years later. Inflation all by itself is accountable for most of that increase.
Well, come on now, it's 12 years later. Inflation all by itself is accountable for most of that increase.
But but but according to our government, there has been little to no inflation!
2
Based on some of the sniffy comments here, I suspect the restaurant might be trying to price out some of the lower-tier diners. If you make something less affordable to the masses, it becomes more attractive to those who deem themselves The Right Sort.
7
Well, Listen, the highest rates of inflation were in the remaining years of the Bush administration, but it is true that U.S. inflation since then has been historically very low. Thanks, Obama.
All that aside, however, NYC has operated essentially as its own economy, and any NYC'er will readily tell you that inflation is very much a reality, driven mostly by the fact that republican support for the 0.001% has resulted in Manhattan essentially becoming a gated community for those 0.001%. Per Se is booked solid months in advance, BTW, and, regardless of this review and other people's schadenfreude, will be for many years to come.
All that aside, however, NYC has operated essentially as its own economy, and any NYC'er will readily tell you that inflation is very much a reality, driven mostly by the fact that republican support for the 0.001% has resulted in Manhattan essentially becoming a gated community for those 0.001%. Per Se is booked solid months in advance, BTW, and, regardless of this review and other people's schadenfreude, will be for many years to come.
3
You mean spending hundreds of dollars on pretentious food designed for the 1% doesn't get you better food?
12
I can hear my Aunt Louise belly-laugh at hearing the prices at Per Se while she serves up a garden fresh salad of who-knows-what greens with her home made wine vinegar and then puts a perfectly roasted, garlic encrusted leg of lamb in the center of the table, handing me the carving knife. She stuffed grape leaves all afternoon, so dessert will be a carton of ice cream put on the table along with a bowl of fresh berries. Help yourself. She's no Thomas Keller (thank heavens!) and all the idiotic behavior of the staff and diners at that place is lost on her. She just knows how to cook the best food money can't buy...
41
How dare the NYT!! Per Se is still a 3 Michelin star restaurant, how dare they downgraded it to a 2 NYT star? Who does Pete Wells think he is? He is not worthy of a meal at Per Se!
LOL. Major ouch on the review. This is why I don't go to expensive restaurants anymore. I almost always leave disappointed, especially at these "3 peas and a lettuce" restaurants, so pretentious.
In truth few chefs can keep up the innovation. I was watching the excellent Netflix series called "I'll have what Phil's having" by TV writer Phil Rosenthal. He did an episode on Barcelona, Spain. In it he discussed the famous Spanish chef Ferran Adria, owner of the restaurant El Bulli that's been featured in just about every food show about Spain from Bourdain to Andrew Zimmern. Ferran Adria reputedly pioneered the "molecular cuisine" that is all the rage these days with foam on everything, and El Bulli was reputedly the restaurant that's impossible to get a reservation. Then suddenly at the height of its popularity Chef Adria decided to close his 3 Michelin star restaurant.
Phil Rosenthal went to visit Adria's brother who supposedly worked with him at El Bulli. He had open up a low key tapas restaurant in Barcelona, offering much less elaborate fare at a much lower price. Many were puzzled why Ferran Adria closed his famous restaurant, but I wasn't surprised at all. He just couldn't keep up the innovation to maintain his reputation. No one can. Might as well quit while he's ahead.
LOL. Major ouch on the review. This is why I don't go to expensive restaurants anymore. I almost always leave disappointed, especially at these "3 peas and a lettuce" restaurants, so pretentious.
In truth few chefs can keep up the innovation. I was watching the excellent Netflix series called "I'll have what Phil's having" by TV writer Phil Rosenthal. He did an episode on Barcelona, Spain. In it he discussed the famous Spanish chef Ferran Adria, owner of the restaurant El Bulli that's been featured in just about every food show about Spain from Bourdain to Andrew Zimmern. Ferran Adria reputedly pioneered the "molecular cuisine" that is all the rage these days with foam on everything, and El Bulli was reputedly the restaurant that's impossible to get a reservation. Then suddenly at the height of its popularity Chef Adria decided to close his 3 Michelin star restaurant.
Phil Rosenthal went to visit Adria's brother who supposedly worked with him at El Bulli. He had open up a low key tapas restaurant in Barcelona, offering much less elaborate fare at a much lower price. Many were puzzled why Ferran Adria closed his famous restaurant, but I wasn't surprised at all. He just couldn't keep up the innovation to maintain his reputation. No one can. Might as well quit while he's ahead.
7
Just to clarify, the series "I'll have what Phil's having" is actually a PBS series, but you can now watch the entire 6 episode series on Netlfix.
1
These pretentious restaurants wouldn't charge the prices they charge if the demand isn't there. $3,000 for a meal for 4 may sound like a lot for working stiffs like us but it's just breakfast money(not even lunch money) for the masters of the universe on Wall Street. What else are they going to blow their million dollar bonuses on if not fancy meals at pretentious expensive restaurants?
12
conspicuous consumption is as important today as it was in Veblen's time over a century ago!
3
Thank you for making more Sanders voters!
46
poor management = poor results. ego is their biggest foe. $175 pasta with truffles? bye felicia. even with a few solid dishes, the bad courses ruin the experience. one star seems fair.
10
WOW! While I don't question Pete Wells' experiences, I'm still shocked to read this. I had the pleasure of dining at Per Se 2.5 years ago and was so pleasantly surprised by our overall experience that I've continued to rave about it to all who will listen. I went in expecting the food to be perfect, and it was. AND delicious. Every course. What I didn't expect was that my friends and I would have so much fun--and that was all thanks to the staff who waited on us that day. My concern was that the overall attitude would be stuffy, and that did seem to be the case, but as soon as we made it clear that we were excited to be there and planned to have FUN, the staff came on board for the entire 3+ hours. I don't feel the need to go back because I'd hate to feel differently about such a wonderful experience, but if what Mr. Wells is reporting is indeed true, I feel certain that Chef Keller will course correct in no time.
8
After this review you still give this place two stars: "very good"?? It does not sound as if it deserves even one star!
17
Over the years my husband and I have dined in some of the best restaurants in NYC. Recently I've noticed the decline in refinement and service at some of the "best of the bests". We've never minded a splurge on a meal because few things compare to impeccable food AND service. Sadly few in NYC still of this combination. They seem to offer a series of greatest hits & pretentious undertrained servers making a splurge feel much more like a waste as we could have a wonderful meal of our own doing at home.
These days, perhaps it's our age, we find ourselves remembering fondly the meals that we loved like old friends and seeking out some new, funky fresh ones at a fraction of the cost.
** Mr Wells has a knack for writing some of my favorite reviews - Bravo!
These days, perhaps it's our age, we find ourselves remembering fondly the meals that we loved like old friends and seeking out some new, funky fresh ones at a fraction of the cost.
** Mr Wells has a knack for writing some of my favorite reviews - Bravo!
19
Why is everyone hating on a dinner that costs $500 each and claim that you can use that money to fix food poverty. Are you aware of how much absolute waste goes on everywhere. There are people who spend $30 MILLION each on multiple houses and condos they don't even live in or $2 million on a yachts or $100k on a trip on a rocket or inherit money and spend their lives being idle while taking the resources of others. Lots of people have money and they could be using it to snort two metric tons of cocaine while buying 50 cars. A $500 meal is at least honest and supports some waiters and chefs. It's excessive but so is spending $100m on a condo when you really only need a one bedroom apt to live. It's as bad as a pricey handbag.
Anyway, I love this review. Thanks for keeping restaurants honest. They should serve consumers, not the other way around.
Anyway, I love this review. Thanks for keeping restaurants honest. They should serve consumers, not the other way around.
87
Agreed. If you don't like the concept, don't read the review.
3
shannon, its just class envy. They just envy because they cannot afford to eat there.
1
but reading it is such fun!
3
"With each fresh review, a restaurant has to earn its stars again."
Oh please, please go to Babbo...utter mediocrity.
Oh please, please go to Babbo...utter mediocrity.
20
Batali must be over-extended. Del Posto is no better.
Wow, different tastes I guess. Love Babbo and had the best meal of my life at Del Posto
So Mr. Wells party of four deposited three grand into Mr. Keller's bank account. Personally, I wouldn't be advertising that fact -- especially since the quail was "a swampy mess"! For $3,000 you could feed a four person family for three months according to USDA stats.
24
How, exactly, do you propose he review a restaurant without eating there, regardless of the cost or a useless comparison of where else that money could have gone?
15
A sauce as appetizing as bong water? Hilarious, and honest. I look forward to reading whether you are celebrating at Señor Frog's or knocking Per Se down a peg or two. Pete Wells: the people's food critic
22
The other description that had me laughing out loud was "gristle of the sea".
19
"People's food critic" at a $750 per person restaurant?
5
Mr. Wells starts with the erroneous premise that all diners are created equal, and that just because everyone pays the same price that everyone is treated equally.
In fact, the more exclusive the place, the stricter the hierarchy, because sitting next to a couple from Des Moines may well be the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.
Do you doubt that Per Se hadn't googled all of its diners for every sitting to determine seating and service priority?
Unfortunately for Per Se, they failed to recognize the chief food critic of the New York Times.
There may be only one Prince of Wales, but there is only one NYT chief restaurant critic as well.
In fact, the more exclusive the place, the stricter the hierarchy, because sitting next to a couple from Des Moines may well be the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.
Do you doubt that Per Se hadn't googled all of its diners for every sitting to determine seating and service priority?
Unfortunately for Per Se, they failed to recognize the chief food critic of the New York Times.
There may be only one Prince of Wales, but there is only one NYT chief restaurant critic as well.
17
'Mr. Wells starts with the erroneous premise that all diners are created equal, and that just because everyone pays the same price that everyone is treated equally. '
If it's wrong, then Per Se is pretentious, gauche and boorish. If you find this attitude acceptable, more power to you.
But many would consider it a lack of grace.
If it's wrong, then Per Se is pretentious, gauche and boorish. If you find this attitude acceptable, more power to you.
But many would consider it a lack of grace.
14
Thank you for telling it like it is. Even the best fall. Will Per Se poo-poo this review? Give it short shrift? Or will they reassess and retrench? That the dinner cost $3,000 is irrelevant. Not the point. The NYT does journalism!
5
I believe this falls under the category that Pema Chodron calls "bourgeois suffering."
12
To all the readers who say these are first world problems. Yes, they are. It's a restaurant review. Enough said. Enjoy reading it for what it is.
99
It feels like the 0.1% have infected this once upon a time prime restaurant.
No foodies wanted. No more creatively conceived and carefully crafted meals by the vigilant eye of a proud chef who believes that his reputation is as good as the last meal he serves. In turn, uncaringly prepared dishes that won't bring the best of premium ingredients used, but will be priced expensively enough to feed the egos of those whose metric is showing-off and not the joy of a good meal. I'll pass.
No foodies wanted. No more creatively conceived and carefully crafted meals by the vigilant eye of a proud chef who believes that his reputation is as good as the last meal he serves. In turn, uncaringly prepared dishes that won't bring the best of premium ingredients used, but will be priced expensively enough to feed the egos of those whose metric is showing-off and not the joy of a good meal. I'll pass.
15
How disappointing it must be to spend $750 a person for a less than perfect meal when 48.8 million Americans—including 16.2 million children— live in households that lack the means to get enough nutritious food on a regular basis. As a result, they struggle with hunger at some time during the year.
Let them eat cake!
Let them eat cake!
20
Coming from Berkeley, I'll take your outrage with a grain of moonlight-harvested sea salt.
13
Don't read a review of a Rolls Royce, if you are interested in a Nissan. It's a restaurant review for people who enjoy spending THEIR money on fine dining. Enjoy the review, and don't mention world hunger! One has nothing to do with the other.
23
Apparently, even at $750, you can't get a nutritious meal.
I dined at The French Laundry about twenty years ago and remember being entirely underwhelmed by the experience. Since that time, I have followed the puffery of Mr. Keller's career with open-mouthed amazement, hoping all the time for the little boy on the sideline to point out what he is wearing. Well done Mr. Wells. Now point us to some restaurants we can all afford.
49
I grew up in a very large family and have no memories of us ever eating in a restaurant - financially, it just wasn't feasible.
When I moved to NYC in the 1970s I was exposed to things I never dreamed I would - opera, live theater, fine dining among them. I've never been rich but I would save up and splurge on a memorable meal every now and then - I would take a co-worker to celebrate the completion of a very special project by treating them to dinner at The Quilted Giraffe.
I would tell our server that we knew very little about fine food, so we were trusting them to put together a great meal, and we wanted to know how each dish was prepared, which wine they would choose and why. We made it clear we wanted to learn.
Three times I did this over a few years; could never do it now. But each time it was not only a wonderful meal, the servers really rose to the occasion, we tasted things we had never tasted before, we asked a lot of questions - we got a glimpse into a world we would never be a part of, but it sure was fun to visit, and they made us feel very welcome.
Doesn't sound like Per Se could ever be that kind of restaurant, but if you can afford it, I encourage you to save up, make a reservation at one of those chic places, put on your fancy duds, and let them know that you're there hoping to have the best meal of your life.
I still remember those three meals I splurged on fondly. They were worth every penny.
When I moved to NYC in the 1970s I was exposed to things I never dreamed I would - opera, live theater, fine dining among them. I've never been rich but I would save up and splurge on a memorable meal every now and then - I would take a co-worker to celebrate the completion of a very special project by treating them to dinner at The Quilted Giraffe.
I would tell our server that we knew very little about fine food, so we were trusting them to put together a great meal, and we wanted to know how each dish was prepared, which wine they would choose and why. We made it clear we wanted to learn.
Three times I did this over a few years; could never do it now. But each time it was not only a wonderful meal, the servers really rose to the occasion, we tasted things we had never tasted before, we asked a lot of questions - we got a glimpse into a world we would never be a part of, but it sure was fun to visit, and they made us feel very welcome.
Doesn't sound like Per Se could ever be that kind of restaurant, but if you can afford it, I encourage you to save up, make a reservation at one of those chic places, put on your fancy duds, and let them know that you're there hoping to have the best meal of your life.
I still remember those three meals I splurged on fondly. They were worth every penny.
90
I worked in the dining room at the Quilted Giraffe back then, I'm glad you remember it fondly.
I have fond memories of eating at Keller's "Rakel." Food was inventive, unpretentious and well executed, and the service was attentive and friendly. The photos accompanying this review make the food at Per Se look fussy and annoying, like someone was in the kitchen playing with your food before bringing it out to the table. And the lapses in service are inexcusable.
To the poster above who reminds us of the food insecurity in many households, your point is well taken.
I have fond memories of eating at Keller's "Rakel." Food was inventive, unpretentious and well executed, and the service was attentive and friendly. The photos accompanying this review make the food at Per Se look fussy and annoying, like someone was in the kitchen playing with your food before bringing it out to the table. And the lapses in service are inexcusable.
To the poster above who reminds us of the food insecurity in many households, your point is well taken.
9
Re: the lady who hurled the napkin. Everyone in NYC who's ever waited tables (i.e, half the artists and performers in the city) knows the type. The uber rich who find it enormously pleasing to condescend to servers or anyone, in fact, deemed to be of an inferior class. 1% is 1% and while money can buy you a $3000 meal it can't make you a decent human being.
127
Well... yes, but I am sure even you can understand the sheer fury and frustration of not having one's washed-rind cow’s milk cheese being warmed up to a buttery softness. The server is lucky she did not hurdle a steak knife.
22
As an architect I know the type. It's why I'm very happy not to be in the high end residential end of the field. But that said, it does make sense. If I'm spending $700 a square foot for a house, everything had better be perfect. If I'm spending $3000 to feed a party of four, the meal had better be the best thing I've ever put in my mouth, and the service and decor must be top notch.
.
Personally I'm much more impressed with architects who can do amazing designs for $150 a square foot. And I'm a lot more impressed with restaurants that can knock my socks off for $50 a person. I've been known to tip 30% when I find them.
.
Personally I'm much more impressed with architects who can do amazing designs for $150 a square foot. And I'm a lot more impressed with restaurants that can knock my socks off for $50 a person. I've been known to tip 30% when I find them.
26
That is a rookie mistake. Even peons like moi know that if the cheese is cold, you cannot taste it.
6
Oysters, caviar and tapioca pudding. Wouldn't let anyone put that in front of me even if it was for free.
10
Stay with your meat and potatoes my man.
5
Well, that particular dish was pretty amazing.
1
I ate there once some years ago. A dinner for 4 ended up costing about $1600 and although there were a few good dishes among those on a tasting menu, I am my guests came away thinking that we had overspent for something that was just OK. There were a few server slip ups on the part of serving staff that you really do not expect at this level.
Our meal was not bad. It was simply OK and overpriced. From what the reviewer spent, it looks like we got off cheaply!
I am OK with splurging for something that seems exceptional and find that there is no shortage of overpriced mediocre food in NYC. And you can also get some great food at quite reasonable prices!
Our meal was not bad. It was simply OK and overpriced. From what the reviewer spent, it looks like we got off cheaply!
I am OK with splurging for something that seems exceptional and find that there is no shortage of overpriced mediocre food in NYC. And you can also get some great food at quite reasonable prices!
130
My sentiments exactly. I find it immensely more satisfying trying to find the hidden gems that offer great food at a reasonable prices than dining at a top rated restaurant where your expectations are sky high. It is much more likely that you will leave disappointed when the meal doesn't live up. Sure, go ahead and celebrate those special occasions in life at a place like Per Se- but give me a hidden gem any day over all the pretense and hype. It just seems outdated and a vestige of a former era.
1
My tabby cat, Benez, who is a gourmand, couldn't agree more - and he fell in love with your photo.
1
If you are paying $750 for a meal, you deserve to be treated badly.
118
cjt, you suffer from extreme class envy. Its a shame Mitt Romney did not win the last election to put you in your place!
1
Why?
4
Pete asks at one point why Keller still has the team at Per Se trotting out his classics. The answer is that Per Se is like a Thomas Keller cover band. The audience is coming for a competent reprise of his greatest hits. It should be no surprise that the band's original tunes seem paltry and out of context.
12
If you aren't too arrogant for sometime more low-cultured, I suggest you go the watch the southpark Yelp episode. Because that's what this reminds me of.
4
I suppose there's a place for haute cuisine in a world where millions upon millions don't get enough to eat every day..., but this account left me without an appetite as I thought about the ridiculous lengths taken to assure the rich are not disturbed or inconvenienced one iota anywhere at anytime. Ballet dancers brought in to teach poise? Please. What a bunch of idiots.
9
Now you know what your paid subscription to the NYT pays for.
22
Donald Trump just offered his personal jet to fly Per Se's leftovers to Haiti every week.
4
Anytime you go to one of those places it's half full of people gawking at their food and taking pictures the whole time. Plus everyone just orders the tasting menu. 1-star restaurants are way better, perfect service/prep, no Instagramming.
5
How about someone mentioning that a feeding frenzy to bring down an expensive restaurant does not bring down the wealthy. It only brings down the poor workers in the restaurant. What is the matter with everybody?
3
There at the top tier of the restaurant industry, are the workers poor?
7
So true! People should be able to spend their money on whatever they like; the problem is when a miniscule number of people are so wealthy that they can drop nearly $1,000 on a meal & feel no pain while others in the same country cannot afford to buy fresh vegetables. We shouldn't be asking the super-wealthy to give money to charity instead of eating out. We should be taxing them at realistic rates!
1
I'm enjoying the outrage expressed in some of these comments as much as I did the engagingly prickly review. I was once an enthusiastic consumer of chef's choice meals and extensive tasting menus, but the idea of sitting for four hours and eating small plates of this and that no longer appeals. With age comes self knowledge, and I now know that this is just not me. I recently watched a program on Netflix in which three restaurants were profiled, one of them being the prestigious Alinea and the other two being family-run restaurants in the hinterlands. One of the two was known for its fabulous raspberry pie. Both my husband and I (and we have both experienced top-level dining, internationally) said that we would gladly choose the family places over Alinea. I mean, I understand the skill and the passion that goes into presenting dinner as a theatrical, all-sensual experience, but when the chef proprietor demonstrated a precisely punctured pillow filled with pine essence, designed to deflate slowly when a dish was placed on top of it at the table, I had to laugh. Too much drama for me.
21
I can't help but think about how many homeless people could be fed for just one of Mr. Wells' $3,000 meals. Obscene.
5
maybe the homeless can feed off the crumbs? As Ronald Reagan once said [paraphrasing], a man is only as valuable as the size of his bank account.
1
Wow, Per Se is the dominatrix of restaurants! You subject yourself to hours upon hours of snotty treatment by the servers, unending blather about ridiculous food concoctions, rubbery, foamy, greasy and slimy offerings in microscopic portions, scolding by a sommelier and the final degradation, your enormous bill. Sounds like punishment not dining.
55
Is it still worth two stars? With as much fault finding as the reviewer found (especially the service) it doesn't appear to deserve even two stars.
9
Especially considering the price!
3
I'm sure Thomas Keller laughs himself to sleep every night. Who among us can really taste the difference between a $375 dinner from Per Se and a $30 dinner from a decent restaurant in NYC? I'm sure some can, but I'll bet the vast numbers of customers cannot. And Keller knows this. And yet people are desperate to feel "special". And so they shell out ridiculous amounts of money for something they can't truly appreciate.
But hey, people throw money at televangelists - so why not foodevangelists too?
But hey, people throw money at televangelists - so why not foodevangelists too?
7
Russ Parsons, former LA Times food editor, posted on FB: "would never dispute a critic's experience, but will just say that my meal at Per Se last spring was beyond spectacular. And I'm sure Thomas Keller will get those stars back. But yeah, wouldn't want to be in that kitchen today."
12
Emphasis on "former" food editor.