When do we get Oregon pinot and Washington cab-dominated red blends?
We found the Landron a medium bodied wine with a light minerality and a kiwifruit nose. We loved the quiet pleasure nuances of this wine. It even showed a little hazelnut when it was warmed a little in the glass. With the food, a razor clam Cerviche, we found any tartness of the flavor quite moderated. It was our favorite wine but it took some time.
The Bregeon was ready to drink at first opening. It reminded us of a classic Muscadet. With soft, lightweight slate oceanic flavors that were rather crisp. It was served with a Sea Scallop Takaki and unfortunately it seemed to fall flat. This might be a quaffing wine. It lost its appeal when it lost its chill.
The la Pepiere was the most full bodied of the group. It was a Muscadet with muscle. It was complex with mineral purity. We found a slight involvement of lemon and saline in it. It was served with a Chicken Galatine, apricot quinoa and mustard seed vinaigrette. The quinoa matched perfectly.
This is a perfect wine for a seafood restaurant. George Erdle, Harper’s Fine Dining Group
The Bregeon was ready to drink at first opening. It reminded us of a classic Muscadet. With soft, lightweight slate oceanic flavors that were rather crisp. It was served with a Sea Scallop Takaki and unfortunately it seemed to fall flat. This might be a quaffing wine. It lost its appeal when it lost its chill.
The la Pepiere was the most full bodied of the group. It was a Muscadet with muscle. It was complex with mineral purity. We found a slight involvement of lemon and saline in it. It was served with a Chicken Galatine, apricot quinoa and mustard seed vinaigrette. The quinoa matched perfectly.
This is a perfect wine for a seafood restaurant. George Erdle, Harper’s Fine Dining Group
2
I decided to try a 2013 Domaine le L'Ecu Orthogneiss and found this one to be most mineral and tightly wound of the 5 or 6 I have tried. I had it with a creamy goat cheese from a local coop and they paired well but it lacked the richness of fruit that some of the others showed yet, not a problem since it was precise and vibrant.
1
Brégeon, at first didn't seem to differ significantly from the other two Muscadets. Like the other two wines, it smelled of sourdough bread and lemon, and perhaps a young orchard fruit, a fresh crispy apple. Also like the other two, Brégeon was dry with a pronounced acidity and citrus qualities. Yet, it tasted more savory with a mineral sensation - felt as much as tasted - along with herbal, saline and orchard fruit aromas. Its texture seemed sudsy or frothy, and the wine had a medium finish.
Brégeon paired well with a meal of baked mahi mahi Greek style - a savory sauce of chunky tomatoes, celery, caramelized onions, sautéed in extra virgin olive and garlic. It invigorated the savory and naturally sweet tomato and caramelized onion sauce. The mahi mahi didn't seem to play into it. When the wine reached room temperature, I continued to drink it alone, somewhat enjoyably, and began to fully appreciate Brégeon's subtle flavors.
Brégeon paired well with a meal of baked mahi mahi Greek style - a savory sauce of chunky tomatoes, celery, caramelized onions, sautéed in extra virgin olive and garlic. It invigorated the savory and naturally sweet tomato and caramelized onion sauce. The mahi mahi didn't seem to play into it. When the wine reached room temperature, I continued to drink it alone, somewhat enjoyably, and began to fully appreciate Brégeon's subtle flavors.
We joined together as a group of 25 to taste Chereau-Carre 2013, Michel Bregeon 2013 and Jo Landron “Le Fief du Breil” 2011. The initial thought by many was that these would be a sweet wine, Muscat. All were pleasantly surprised and enjoyed the delicacy of the wines. Our food pairing was Seafood Paella along with some sandwiches, playing off of last week’s NY Times recommendation. In addition to shellfish/seafood pairing well with the briny characteristics of the wine, we wanted to play off of the mineral/flint notes with the smoky flavors in our smoked salmon pinwheels. A bit of cayenne pepper from the chorizo in the paella worked well with the refreshing citrus acidity, while the lower alcohol kept the finish clean/cool. The lack of over ripe fruit flavors and crispness in the wine cut through our creamy, pungent, Chablis washed cheese. Artisan milk chocolates with orange and lemon crème also paired well with the floral, citrus notes and crisp acidity of the wine.
Our first sip of each was ice cold but we kept the bottles out of the ice for our second approach. The noticeable difference was that the “Sur Lie” became more evident as the wine warmed. The 2011 Jo Landron “Le Fiel”, 14 months Sur Lie was the most intense with a hint of spritz (barely detectable but refreshing). Some noted a strange taste, “marine (seaweed) and smoke”? With a bit of food, the wine was magnificent!
Speak of a new favorite wine, summer gatherings, friendship & smiles filled the room!
Our first sip of each was ice cold but we kept the bottles out of the ice for our second approach. The noticeable difference was that the “Sur Lie” became more evident as the wine warmed. The 2011 Jo Landron “Le Fiel”, 14 months Sur Lie was the most intense with a hint of spritz (barely detectable but refreshing). Some noted a strange taste, “marine (seaweed) and smoke”? With a bit of food, the wine was magnificent!
Speak of a new favorite wine, summer gatherings, friendship & smiles filled the room!
2
I was able to find the Michel Bregeon Muscdet 2012. For comparison, I tried a Chateau du Coing de Saint Fiacre Muscadet 2009. They are very different wines. I detected a very tropical aroma from the du Coing, but I couldn't identify anything distinct in the aroma of the Bregeon. The du Coing seemed a little sharp in the mouth, but I found the Bregeon to be very soft and pleasant. I tried them with salmon and mushrooms. I very much enjoyed the Bregeon pairing, but the du Coing seemed to clash a little with the food.
A few days later, I tried the previously opened bottles with some pasta with smoked fish in a cream sauce. The leftover du Coing seemed to pair better than the leftover Bregeon. Is it possible that white wines can sometimes benefit from decanting?
A few days later, I tried the previously opened bottles with some pasta with smoked fish in a cream sauce. The leftover du Coing seemed to pair better than the leftover Bregeon. Is it possible that white wines can sometimes benefit from decanting?
This assignment is my introduction to Muscadet, so I will be resorting to comparisons with other grapes. First up was the Bregeon (but from 2011); it was not an auspicious start. My thought was of a Sancerre that had misplaced its crispness. (I followed it with a nice 2013 Gerard Boulay Sancerre that confirmed my impression.)
Happily, the 2012 L'Ecu Orthogneiss was completely different. If any wine should taste "minerally", it ought to be one named after igneous rocks, no? Anyway, this one did. The resemblance to Champagne was so strong that I actually caught myself checking the glass for bubbles. Easily my favorite.
Finally, I obtained the 2013 "corpulent sheep" La Pepiere from the good folks here at Domaine LA. A not unpleasant tartness is its dominant characteristic.
All in all, I found these to be three very different expressions of the "melon de Bourgogne". I'm surprised at the variation within an AOC.
Happily, the 2012 L'Ecu Orthogneiss was completely different. If any wine should taste "minerally", it ought to be one named after igneous rocks, no? Anyway, this one did. The resemblance to Champagne was so strong that I actually caught myself checking the glass for bubbles. Easily my favorite.
Finally, I obtained the 2013 "corpulent sheep" La Pepiere from the good folks here at Domaine LA. A not unpleasant tartness is its dominant characteristic.
All in all, I found these to be three very different expressions of the "melon de Bourgogne". I'm surprised at the variation within an AOC.
We were able to get a bottle of Pierre Luneau-Papin 2010 Excelsior (CA$40) and an inexpensive bottle of Muscadet for US$10. The Excelsior had a lovely medium body and a well-balanced flavour. I was expecting something more acidic but was pleasantly surprised. As Eric suggested in the tasting notes the flavours were nuanced. I couldn't really pick out anything specific but perhaps a bit of butter and a bit of minerality.
The cheaper bottle, Chateau de la Cantrie 2013, was just less of everything all round. It was thinner and had very muted flavours.
We had the obligatory raw oysters and wow did that pairing ever work well! The main course was a seafood risotto with mussels, prawns and scallops. The wine was OK with that but the saffron was maybe too strong it actually paired better with a bottle of local Marechal Foch that we opened after the Muscadet ran out.
But overall, it was a great opportunity to try something that I wouldn't ordinary have chosen so thanks for that.
The cheaper bottle, Chateau de la Cantrie 2013, was just less of everything all round. It was thinner and had very muted flavours.
We had the obligatory raw oysters and wow did that pairing ever work well! The main course was a seafood risotto with mussels, prawns and scallops. The wine was OK with that but the saffron was maybe too strong it actually paired better with a bottle of local Marechal Foch that we opened after the Muscadet ran out.
But overall, it was a great opportunity to try something that I wouldn't ordinary have chosen so thanks for that.
The most prominent characteristic of all three Muscadets was not a flavor or a mouthfeel. It was that all three made their disparate accompanying meals into joyous dining experiences. I did not notice the wines as delicious—Les Gras Moutons was more apple-y; the Brégeon more briny; Le Fief in between; all were ok-to-good, but well short of great; and for Barb, who has yet to taste the wine she finds too gutsy, the Muscadets were fair at best—I, and she, noticed the meals they accompanied as delicious.
Is that Muscadet’s complexity? a complex and happy effect on their meals that does not _appear_ to come from the wine at all? I put these wines with what were, for me, some very unusual, and, I suspected, hard-to-pair foods: a cauliflower and roasted hazelnut pasta; raw oysters; slow-cooked, vinegar-y bbq. (Sure had fun on the cooking side of this assignment. And to be fair, more than a few combinations did not work; it seems to help if the food lies near the middle between delicate and strong-flavored.) But in each of the three successes, the overall impression was, “hey, this meal is so good, all it needs is any old wine that doesn’t outright clash.”
Well, three times the Muscadet was that wine. And three doesn’t sound like coincidence.
--Dan Barron
Is that Muscadet’s complexity? a complex and happy effect on their meals that does not _appear_ to come from the wine at all? I put these wines with what were, for me, some very unusual, and, I suspected, hard-to-pair foods: a cauliflower and roasted hazelnut pasta; raw oysters; slow-cooked, vinegar-y bbq. (Sure had fun on the cooking side of this assignment. And to be fair, more than a few combinations did not work; it seems to help if the food lies near the middle between delicate and strong-flavored.) But in each of the three successes, the overall impression was, “hey, this meal is so good, all it needs is any old wine that doesn’t outright clash.”
Well, three times the Muscadet was that wine. And three doesn’t sound like coincidence.
--Dan Barron
Les Gras Moutons was the most apple-y, least briny, most affable of our three Muscadets. It began with apple sweetness and a tartness that, into the meal, became more noticeably lemony—barely any change at all. I had sat down consciously looking for the complexity that other Schoolers have found in these wines, and I did not find it. Unless… (hold that thought; sorry).
The pairing last night was a vinegary, slow-cooked, medium-spicy Carolina bbq (thanks, F&W’s Ray Isle), with coleslaw and a side of chilled corn-basil soup. The delicate, buttermilky soup was a bit fussy; it turned the Moutons candy-sweet and hollow, though a spritz of lime helped. The coleslaw and the bbq, separately, were pretty good. With the mildly sweet slaw, the wine tasted pleasant and quite dry; added bbq spice and salt were both plusses. With the bbq, the wine started rich and wonderful, but finished way too soon, leaving a long, lonely, spicy-hot food aftertaste.
But the bbq and slaw together was heavenly with the wine. The slaw tamed the vinegary bbq’s hotness, and the meal became a lot more fun and a lot less academic. I got a faint and elusive, anise-y note from the wine, but by that point, who cared? I was too wrapped up enjoying the meal.
And that’s where the Gras Moutons followed right along with the Fief and Brégeon herd.
To be continued. (Apologies again).
--Dan Barron
The pairing last night was a vinegary, slow-cooked, medium-spicy Carolina bbq (thanks, F&W’s Ray Isle), with coleslaw and a side of chilled corn-basil soup. The delicate, buttermilky soup was a bit fussy; it turned the Moutons candy-sweet and hollow, though a spritz of lime helped. The coleslaw and the bbq, separately, were pretty good. With the mildly sweet slaw, the wine tasted pleasant and quite dry; added bbq spice and salt were both plusses. With the bbq, the wine started rich and wonderful, but finished way too soon, leaving a long, lonely, spicy-hot food aftertaste.
But the bbq and slaw together was heavenly with the wine. The slaw tamed the vinegary bbq’s hotness, and the meal became a lot more fun and a lot less academic. I got a faint and elusive, anise-y note from the wine, but by that point, who cared? I was too wrapped up enjoying the meal.
And that’s where the Gras Moutons followed right along with the Fief and Brégeon herd.
To be continued. (Apologies again).
--Dan Barron
Sorry, should be Domaine de la Pepiere not Domaine de la Peppier. I think spell check got me there.
Had the Domaine de la Peppier 2013, not the Moutons, probably the second string for Marc Ollivier. After a days work on our property decided to do a porch meal of cheese and crackers, wine, and home made chicken soup. Temperatures in the seventies that day and calm breezes made for a perfect country style experience. On the nose distinctly sweet with apple aromas. On the pour grassy, citrus, some earth tones, reminded me of playing at the neighborhood creek as a boy. Very fresh, grapefruit on the tongue, it was sweeter than the Bregeon but without much finish. This wine was very light had a touch of minerals in the background. Paired well with the cheeses but became overwhelmed by the soup. Sitting on the porch smelling the meadow grasses and drinking this wine was a perfect finish to the day.
Unfortunately, for those of us in California, we were only able to get Michel Bregeon Muscadet Sevre et Maine sure lie, 2013. But we were able to get Le Fils des Gras Mouton muscadet Sevre et maine sure lie, 2013 from Claude Branger. They were both wonderfully light and crisp, with aromas of citrus and a hint of yeast or honey. Both were nicely complex. The Claude Branger was somewhat less acidic. We wanted to keep drinking them continuously, sip after sip.
After last month’s Napa cabernet sauvignon, it is nice to have some light whites. The Napa cabernets were wines that stood on their own with their own strong character while the muscadets were more supple and their tastes changed depending on the food. I think of cabernets as redwoods to which you bring foods that work with them. The muscadets are more like willow trees which bend with the food. For example, with lox, the wine tasted more crisp and acidic. With the saltiness of potato chips, they tasted sweeter. With chicken, they were wonderful and tasted less acidic. We didn’t pair with oysters since we do not like them.
Thanks for re-introducing us to muscadet. It is definitely a delicious wine to own and savor - only 12% alcohol and at great prices. What a good deal!
After last month’s Napa cabernet sauvignon, it is nice to have some light whites. The Napa cabernets were wines that stood on their own with their own strong character while the muscadets were more supple and their tastes changed depending on the food. I think of cabernets as redwoods to which you bring foods that work with them. The muscadets are more like willow trees which bend with the food. For example, with lox, the wine tasted more crisp and acidic. With the saltiness of potato chips, they tasted sweeter. With chicken, they were wonderful and tasted less acidic. We didn’t pair with oysters since we do not like them.
Thanks for re-introducing us to muscadet. It is definitely a delicious wine to own and savor - only 12% alcohol and at great prices. What a good deal!
1
I read the detail about the noticeable difference between tasting the wine chilled and tasting it a bit warmer. So I tried the 2013 Domaine du Haut Bourg (the only bottle of Muscadet left in the local winery on the day I visited) in those two different ways.
Chilled: Out of the fruit nose, I sensed honeydew the strongest (strongest is a relative term as the scent overall was pretty subtle). In the mouth, the wine was medium-bodied and carried a very zesty sensation all the way to the citrus-y finish.
Closer to room temperature: This time, the wine smelled more like ripe, sweet red apples. Upon my first sip, the sweet apple notes were immediately cut by a deep mineral texture and very fresh acidity. I loved the lingering sour berry aftertaste and thought the wine was quite delicious, much less subtle than when I had tasted it chilled. I would not call this wine quiet! Instead, it's one of those wines that, the more I keep drinking, the more I enjoy it and find it intriguing.
As I cannot stand the smell of oysters, I instead paired the muscadet with chicken thigh and breast braised in sweetened soy sauce (Korean recipe called dakjjim). The wine was fantastic with the chicken breast. The tough chicken breast would just melt in my mouth every time I took a sip of the wine. In general, I find that high acidity whites go fabulously with Korean dishes!
Chilled: Out of the fruit nose, I sensed honeydew the strongest (strongest is a relative term as the scent overall was pretty subtle). In the mouth, the wine was medium-bodied and carried a very zesty sensation all the way to the citrus-y finish.
Closer to room temperature: This time, the wine smelled more like ripe, sweet red apples. Upon my first sip, the sweet apple notes were immediately cut by a deep mineral texture and very fresh acidity. I loved the lingering sour berry aftertaste and thought the wine was quite delicious, much less subtle than when I had tasted it chilled. I would not call this wine quiet! Instead, it's one of those wines that, the more I keep drinking, the more I enjoy it and find it intriguing.
As I cannot stand the smell of oysters, I instead paired the muscadet with chicken thigh and breast braised in sweetened soy sauce (Korean recipe called dakjjim). The wine was fantastic with the chicken breast. The tough chicken breast would just melt in my mouth every time I took a sip of the wine. In general, I find that high acidity whites go fabulously with Korean dishes!
3
Found the Bregeon different year, 2011 and a Pepiere, 2013, not the Les Gras Moutons, (maybe Les Maigre Moutons) different field section at least. Another wonderful experience, thanks, Eric. Had the Bregeon last night with garden salads with honey mustard dressing, shrimp scampi/pasta and peas, sour dough bread. On the nose the wine smelled sweet with pear notes some earth tones mixed in like the smell after a brief morning shower. First sip was tangy not too acidic but dry, some "minerality" in the background. Wonderful mouth feel, back of the tongue finish, a touch of lemon coming through. We served this at cellar temperature by the way. Fully agree with Eric, about getting more nuance of flavor and sensation at warmer temperature. This wine held its own with food, didn't fight the food but lost a little of the fruit sensations and fell back on the earthiness and stoney qualities. As we drank the wine it stayed dry in the mouth but a sweetness came through afterwards. Surprisingly long finish with this white. Lovely. Going back to the store for more, today!
Our Oregon "class" again enjoyed the wines and the fun of finding appropriate food. We found two of the recommended wines (the Bregeon and the La Pepiere) and added 3 others: 2010 Sevre et Maine "gneiss," Domaine De L'Ecu; 2009 Muscadet sevre et Maine "Cuvee Ces Ceps Centenaires," Chateau de Chasseloir; and, 2013 Muscadet Cotes De Grand Lieu "Le Clos de la Butte," Domaine De L'Aujardiere. The 6 of us varied quite a bit in which wine we preferred, but several of us rated the "Gneiss" highly, appreciating its complex tropical fruit nose and its fullness of flavor as it warmed up and was consumed with food. We found the Bregeon interesting, with some slight diesel, cantaloupe rind, and brine on the nose, and the mineral taste with food. We did eat oysters on the shell and, indeed, they paired beautifully with all the wines. We enjoyed the wines with a selection of cheeses, then our main course was roast chicken that had been brined with feta and seasoned with lemon zest and lots of pepper. The wines stood up to the seasoning nicely. We thought the two 2013 bottles were similar to each other -- very dry, light, somewhat tart, with a distinct pear small. Once again, the wines generated a lot of conversation and an agreement that we would like to drink more Muscadet!
I'm glad, Dan and agree that the pairing of Muscadet and raw oysters the "naked" way - without "accessorizing" in form of a dressing or sauce - was the purest and most delicious.
The following weekend I opened Le Fief du Breil, which smelled of fresh sourdough bread and lemon. The wine had a translucent light yellow color and was light in body and dry with mineral and citrus-y flavors and an acidic quality.
We paired it with seafood again, our go-to dinner protein, a medley of three different flavors and textures (poached filet of sole, cod, and Key West pink shrimp) in a natural light seafood broth with a garnish of young and tangy yellow mango, cubed and sprinkled with fresh lemon juice.
With food the wine became smoother and more detectable on a palate, where it lingered just slightly, emanating subtle flavors of crisp apple and candied lemon - seemingly juxtaposing flavors. The wine paired especially well with the cod fish and mango "salad" or garnish, which brought out notes of honey and ripe citrus. We also preferred our Muscadet, as Joseph noted, when it warmed up considerably. Then, the previously undetectable nuances and seemingly dichotomous characteristics of crispness and softness, blended and coexisted.
I'll be moving onto Brégeon, which has already been described so interestingly by other reviewers, and so of course I'm even more curious about my experience drinking it. So thank you Wine School Classmates!
The following weekend I opened Le Fief du Breil, which smelled of fresh sourdough bread and lemon. The wine had a translucent light yellow color and was light in body and dry with mineral and citrus-y flavors and an acidic quality.
We paired it with seafood again, our go-to dinner protein, a medley of three different flavors and textures (poached filet of sole, cod, and Key West pink shrimp) in a natural light seafood broth with a garnish of young and tangy yellow mango, cubed and sprinkled with fresh lemon juice.
With food the wine became smoother and more detectable on a palate, where it lingered just slightly, emanating subtle flavors of crisp apple and candied lemon - seemingly juxtaposing flavors. The wine paired especially well with the cod fish and mango "salad" or garnish, which brought out notes of honey and ripe citrus. We also preferred our Muscadet, as Joseph noted, when it warmed up considerably. Then, the previously undetectable nuances and seemingly dichotomous characteristics of crispness and softness, blended and coexisted.
I'll be moving onto Brégeon, which has already been described so interestingly by other reviewers, and so of course I'm even more curious about my experience drinking it. So thank you Wine School Classmates!
1
I have tried a few bottles off the list over the past week and have really enjoyed getting to know Muscadet. Most of the wines have been very appealing and versatile with a range of foods and while I do not worry about the seasons matching my wines (food is the primary variable) I could not help reaching for these wines as spring has arrived in the French countryside. Of special note were the 2013 Luneau-Papin Domaine Pierre de la Grange Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Terre de Pierre Butte de la Roche and the 2013 Domaines Landron Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Le Clos la Cariziere (wow, long names!) The latter was very snappy with delicious tropical fruit notes, intriguing floral scents (gardenias?) hay and a well defined mineral quality of wet stones and, well, concrete! The Papin was less complex but delicious all the same. Both stood up to some Loire cheeses and poulet roti with a simple dry rub of paprika and herbs de Provence with ease and both improved over the course of the meal, and with some warming, became richer and rounder. Got a few more to try, looking forward to the weekend.
The 2 Muscadet we found were Muscadet La Griffe Bernard Chereau Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur Lie 2013, and Le Fils des Gras Moutons Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2013. We did not find any of the recommended wines. Although we did manage to find the Chereau name in one of our bottles and rather than Les Gras Moutons, we found the son of. What is it with the "fat sheep" in the Loire?
We served the Muscadet with an appetizer of mushrooms on crostini and then for the main meal we had salmon with a beurre Nantais (beurre blanc with cream), asparagus and fingerling potatoes. Afterwards we had a nice goat cheese from the Loire, Valencay, still with the Muscadet.
Both wines were very similar. Citrus, chalk and mineral were the main impressions from nosing the wine. Both wines gave a tingly sensation on the tongue. They had a fresh feel and as they warmed up the nose became more apparent. I insisted I felt sweetness on the tongue, a bit like a chenin blanc, but nobody else supported me.
The wines went wonderfully well with everything, especially the goat cheese, which was a nice surprise. It cut through the beuure blanc sauce and enhanced the salmon meal beautifully.
Looking forward to your next installment. When are we going to do Burgundy? I was just in Central Otago in New Zealand and had a fantastic pinot from Brennan Wines, B2 2011. Of course we will never see it here, or in the US.
We served the Muscadet with an appetizer of mushrooms on crostini and then for the main meal we had salmon with a beurre Nantais (beurre blanc with cream), asparagus and fingerling potatoes. Afterwards we had a nice goat cheese from the Loire, Valencay, still with the Muscadet.
Both wines were very similar. Citrus, chalk and mineral were the main impressions from nosing the wine. Both wines gave a tingly sensation on the tongue. They had a fresh feel and as they warmed up the nose became more apparent. I insisted I felt sweetness on the tongue, a bit like a chenin blanc, but nobody else supported me.
The wines went wonderfully well with everything, especially the goat cheese, which was a nice surprise. It cut through the beuure blanc sauce and enhanced the salmon meal beautifully.
Looking forward to your next installment. When are we going to do Burgundy? I was just in Central Otago in New Zealand and had a fantastic pinot from Brennan Wines, B2 2011. Of course we will never see it here, or in the US.
1
First, big thanks, Ali, for the oyster inspiration. We sipped and slurped le Fief du Breil and dinner on the half-shell (plus a mushroom, arugala, goat cheese salad and more stinky goat cheese for dessert—both easily, comfortably paired).
Like the retiring Brégeon, the Fief lit up the food’s charms more brightly than its own. That said, it was, by comparison, the wild extrovert. It had flavors: faint citrus/lime beneath a prominent golden apple that flitted from ripe, honied and off-dry to an intriguing, micro-fine tartness. And it had a seawater vein that loved the oysters’ ocean funk and calmed their loud salt, at least until the next shell. (Atop: naked went best with the wine, or a vinegary drop of Mignonette; Tabasco lined up well but overwhelmed; lime was surprisingly poor.)
But beyond flavors and tastes, the Fief gave context to the primal sea meal. We’ve never had anything remotely like it at home (shucking virgins?) and the purity was hard to ken. I kept thinking, where’s the dish? Where’s the cooking? The Fief was an anchor that kept it all in focus.
Way later, recalling, the meal grew more existential, special. (Nothing like downing live sea animals to feel your lofty place in the order of things.) Certainly the Fief was what led to the dinner. It was also what kept it going forward. I’d wince, slurp, take a sip to get my bearings, then slurp again. Barb, more into food than wine, deemed the Fief “okay”… between refills. Call that meta food-friendly.
--Dan Barron
Like the retiring Brégeon, the Fief lit up the food’s charms more brightly than its own. That said, it was, by comparison, the wild extrovert. It had flavors: faint citrus/lime beneath a prominent golden apple that flitted from ripe, honied and off-dry to an intriguing, micro-fine tartness. And it had a seawater vein that loved the oysters’ ocean funk and calmed their loud salt, at least until the next shell. (Atop: naked went best with the wine, or a vinegary drop of Mignonette; Tabasco lined up well but overwhelmed; lime was surprisingly poor.)
But beyond flavors and tastes, the Fief gave context to the primal sea meal. We’ve never had anything remotely like it at home (shucking virgins?) and the purity was hard to ken. I kept thinking, where’s the dish? Where’s the cooking? The Fief was an anchor that kept it all in focus.
Way later, recalling, the meal grew more existential, special. (Nothing like downing live sea animals to feel your lofty place in the order of things.) Certainly the Fief was what led to the dinner. It was also what kept it going forward. I’d wince, slurp, take a sip to get my bearings, then slurp again. Barb, more into food than wine, deemed the Fief “okay”… between refills. Call that meta food-friendly.
--Dan Barron
Dear Mr. Asimov,
I know this ins't the correct spot to pose this question, but I couldn't figure a better way. May I borrow your wine pairing experience for a moment? My wife and I are offering a dinner party next week for some dear friends, a couple of whom have good cellars and good palates. We have decided to do the beef cheek goulash that Pete Wells wrote about recently, but I am finding wine pairing a little challenging. Do I go with the deep flavors that the dish will develop -- which gives plenty of range for wine choices, I think -- or should I be concerned about pickling liquid, introduced at the end, and the red pepper puree as disruptive of a wine with some age on it? I would love your thoughts.
Thanks so much.
BTW, even though we have not been regular posters, we have followed your Wine School closely. What great idea! We are searching out Muscadet for
our own pleasure and edification.
Best,
David
I know this ins't the correct spot to pose this question, but I couldn't figure a better way. May I borrow your wine pairing experience for a moment? My wife and I are offering a dinner party next week for some dear friends, a couple of whom have good cellars and good palates. We have decided to do the beef cheek goulash that Pete Wells wrote about recently, but I am finding wine pairing a little challenging. Do I go with the deep flavors that the dish will develop -- which gives plenty of range for wine choices, I think -- or should I be concerned about pickling liquid, introduced at the end, and the red pepper puree as disruptive of a wine with some age on it? I would love your thoughts.
Thanks so much.
BTW, even though we have not been regular posters, we have followed your Wine School closely. What great idea! We are searching out Muscadet for
our own pleasure and edification.
Best,
David
I bought the Kermit Lynch and Les Gras Moutons. The first had a nice nose and worth the little bit extra--I'll buy it again--but the second was not noticeably different from the $12 and $13 Muscadets I've been drinking for years.
1
The Brégeon at dinner was like a male ballet lifter. It said, “nevermind me; taste this food.” (Napa prima donna Cab to food: “Lookame! Lookame!”)
Nose: rich, briny and sweet. Taste: lemony—from hard candyish when cold, to champagne dry as it warmed. Body: both rich and stunningly lean. (We like our paradoxes at Wine School!)
Or, is “pure” more apt than “lean”? Alongside a complex vegetarian pasta with spicy, carmelized cauliflower and a pesto of hazelnut, parsley, pecorino, the wine was a stalwart. It stood up effortlessly to the cayenne and ancho pepper, and to the rich, nutty oiliness, offering a rock-steady lemon refresher between bites. And here’s one pairing “rule” I’ll now have to unlearn. Pair complex food and complex wine? This was an opposites match: complex food and a wine unbending and pure. With a much simpler, roasted pepper side, the wine had a nice stoniness, but quickly blanketed the food with its hard candy lemon. (And with peppers and anchovy? A clanging fail. Note to self: anchovy is no oyster.) What also made the pasta dish work was the weight match. The Brégeon was light but muscular. The food, heavy and rich for a vegetable, but nowhere near meat.
Can’t call this an exciting wine. Wife Barb (the real “bgb”) called it bland. I loved what it did for the food. Just so long as the food’s richer than roast pepper, lighter than meat, gentler then anchovy.
Internet pairing notes: thanks Fiona for the pasta idea. Ray Isle: bbq? really?
--Dan Barron
Nose: rich, briny and sweet. Taste: lemony—from hard candyish when cold, to champagne dry as it warmed. Body: both rich and stunningly lean. (We like our paradoxes at Wine School!)
Or, is “pure” more apt than “lean”? Alongside a complex vegetarian pasta with spicy, carmelized cauliflower and a pesto of hazelnut, parsley, pecorino, the wine was a stalwart. It stood up effortlessly to the cayenne and ancho pepper, and to the rich, nutty oiliness, offering a rock-steady lemon refresher between bites. And here’s one pairing “rule” I’ll now have to unlearn. Pair complex food and complex wine? This was an opposites match: complex food and a wine unbending and pure. With a much simpler, roasted pepper side, the wine had a nice stoniness, but quickly blanketed the food with its hard candy lemon. (And with peppers and anchovy? A clanging fail. Note to self: anchovy is no oyster.) What also made the pasta dish work was the weight match. The Brégeon was light but muscular. The food, heavy and rich for a vegetable, but nowhere near meat.
Can’t call this an exciting wine. Wife Barb (the real “bgb”) called it bland. I loved what it did for the food. Just so long as the food’s richer than roast pepper, lighter than meat, gentler then anchovy.
Internet pairing notes: thanks Fiona for the pasta idea. Ray Isle: bbq? really?
--Dan Barron
2
We were able to buy all three although the Michel Brégeon was a 2011 instead of 2012 so we had two from 2011 and one from 2013. Smell -- Le Fief du Breil had less aroma then the other two we thought. They smelled of fruit - apples to me - crisp ones definitely not sweet or mushy apples. There was something more than apple but I am not sure what. Texture -- I could feel the crispness on the middle of my tongue and then later in the back of my throat. A slightly acid bite but not unpleasant. The Brégeon had a slight sour aftertaste. I absolutely enjoyed "the quiet pleasures". Sometimes bold wines are good but I also like the quiet ones and quiet is a good word. We didn't talk much during dinner. I wanted to pay attention to the wine and not try to converse at the same time. If I had a glass of muscadet at a wine bar I would want to be left alone with it. We served the wines with oyster chowder with plenty leftover to try another night with chicken. My husband thought the wine was better with the spoonfuls with oyster rather than the spoonfuls of just broth and potatoes; that the flavors complemented each other rather than co-existed. We agreed on our order of preference. We liked Les Gras Moutons best with Le Fief du Bréil second. We did not drink the wine cold out of the refrigerator. We let it sit for about 20 minutes. We have learned that we like it better that way. Thanks again for another interesting lesson; another favorite white for two red wine fans.
1
I opened La Pépière and immediately upon uncorking the wine gave a slight fizz pop and emanated the smell of bread and citrus. It was crystal clear and had a warm, light yellow tone.
Without the food the wine was dry, acidic, neither fruity nor savory, with a mineral flavor, of wet stones perhaps, and an underripe plum. It had a medium-light (not thin) and almost lanolin-like texture.
I decided to pair it simply and straightforwardly with raw oysters - fresh raw Blue Point oysters accompanied by lemon wedges, red wine vinegar shallots dressing, and a classic horseradish cocktail sauce.
La Pépière washed down the briny oysters that were rich with flavors of sea water, shell chalkiness and the beach. The wine's acidity and texture complemented the fresh and "meaty" oysters as the wine lingered on the palate. The wine's sensation in the mouth moved to warmer and less citrusy, and it's flavor to orchard fruit (apple, just as another reviewer noted) without losing its mineral and stony qualities. La Pépière now seemed less acidic and more balanced with a touch of "sweetness" from the yeast (?). The wine was a perfect pairing with the oysters - it enhanced their flavor, washed them down and cleaned the palate. The wine danced in the mouth and drank like water. This was a feast and a real treat as we don't get oysters for a stay-home dinner. This easily could've been one of my favorite meals and wine pairings ever.
Without the food the wine was dry, acidic, neither fruity nor savory, with a mineral flavor, of wet stones perhaps, and an underripe plum. It had a medium-light (not thin) and almost lanolin-like texture.
I decided to pair it simply and straightforwardly with raw oysters - fresh raw Blue Point oysters accompanied by lemon wedges, red wine vinegar shallots dressing, and a classic horseradish cocktail sauce.
La Pépière washed down the briny oysters that were rich with flavors of sea water, shell chalkiness and the beach. The wine's acidity and texture complemented the fresh and "meaty" oysters as the wine lingered on the palate. The wine's sensation in the mouth moved to warmer and less citrusy, and it's flavor to orchard fruit (apple, just as another reviewer noted) without losing its mineral and stony qualities. La Pépière now seemed less acidic and more balanced with a touch of "sweetness" from the yeast (?). The wine was a perfect pairing with the oysters - it enhanced their flavor, washed them down and cleaned the palate. The wine danced in the mouth and drank like water. This was a feast and a real treat as we don't get oysters for a stay-home dinner. This easily could've been one of my favorite meals and wine pairings ever.
1
Is Wine School also Cooking School for others here? Tonight's selection/lesson will be Pasta with Caramelized Cauliflower & Hazelnut Pesto. Looking forward to making and to pairing. Hope the sugar that the recipe calls for (to balance the unskinned hazelnuts?) won't be too sweet for the wine.
Based on Martin's notes, I'd try it with Les Gras Moutons, but alas, that one's late for class. Perhaps the (bland?) Brégeon.
--Dan Barron
Based on Martin's notes, I'd try it with Les Gras Moutons, but alas, that one's late for class. Perhaps the (bland?) Brégeon.
--Dan Barron
Ah, to back in France this month and to the ease of finding these wines (and the great prices to balance out what I paid for those Napa Cabs last month!) Found all three on the same website and in finding these wines (and others) I noticed several of the wines from this region use the rock type of the vineyards as the name of the cuvee and so, as I taste on, I look forward to these differences in the wines. Tonight I tried the Michel Bregeon and for the first time since the start of Wine School, I am trying wines that I am not familiar with in any way. I found it to be medium bodied yet light on its feet with nice apricot notes and some interesting mineral notes. While not a complex wine I found it really pleasing and versatile since it paired remarkable well with Selles sur Cher and Spanish ham with olives, tomatoes and onions followed by an apricot tart. I preferred it more towards the end of dinner and desert when it had warmed up considerably since I left the bottle upon opening.
La Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie “Les Gras Moutons” 2013. I tasted the wine first ice cold from the fridge, and of course the cold suppressed the flavor. First impression was clean with a hint of honey. The wine opened up during food preparation (parsley pesto, broiled clams then broiled oysters) showing amazing cleanliness starting with honeysuckle, going to herbal chamomile and all kinds of wildflower ending in pure, young, unoffensive apple. Apple without the tartness. My wife claimed the purity and innocence of the wine remind her of our baby.
Jo Landron, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Le Fief du Breil” 2011. First thing I notice is a nose of pineapple. We were both thinking this one was even better than the gras moutons. However, we didn’t find common grounds on how. My wife thought it’s sweeter, I found it more tart, more tangy, possessing more of a carved out fruit caracteristic, and less honey and chamomile. The label reads 100% melon de bourgogne. The sweet nose of this wine picks up perfectly with overripe goat cheese, Hervé Mons Ovalie Cendrée. Our dessert so to say. The combination of sweet flavors from the ripe goat cheese and the wine danced in my mouth.
Michel Brégeon Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie 2012. We thought that this wine was less interesting than the other two, definitely more bland. Maybe we repeat the tasting and sample this one first.
Jo Landron, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Le Fief du Breil” 2011. First thing I notice is a nose of pineapple. We were both thinking this one was even better than the gras moutons. However, we didn’t find common grounds on how. My wife thought it’s sweeter, I found it more tart, more tangy, possessing more of a carved out fruit caracteristic, and less honey and chamomile. The label reads 100% melon de bourgogne. The sweet nose of this wine picks up perfectly with overripe goat cheese, Hervé Mons Ovalie Cendrée. Our dessert so to say. The combination of sweet flavors from the ripe goat cheese and the wine danced in my mouth.
Michel Brégeon Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie 2012. We thought that this wine was less interesting than the other two, definitely more bland. Maybe we repeat the tasting and sample this one first.
3
But but but I could only find the 2011 Bregeon....
I was delighted to be able to find two of your suggestions at one of my local wine stores, even better the Kermit Lynch selection was one of them. I would buy any Kermit Lynch wine in my price range. He knows how to find really good wines! It is a 2013 vintage, and I'm wondering if it would be much different in an earlier vintage?
We are trying it tonight with homemade pasta and a mild mushroom sauce. The taste before sitting down was not exactly like what I expect from a Muscadet. It had a touch of softness and fruitiness (not too much of course since it is a Muscadet!) that I found quite different from the other ones I've tried and generally liked. So I am really looking forward to trying it with food.
We are trying it tonight with homemade pasta and a mild mushroom sauce. The taste before sitting down was not exactly like what I expect from a Muscadet. It had a touch of softness and fruitiness (not too much of course since it is a Muscadet!) that I found quite different from the other ones I've tried and generally liked. So I am really looking forward to trying it with food.
What a great lesson, Muscadet. Was not able to find the recommended bottles but was able to get a 2012 Domaine de la Quilla Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie. Prepared broiled scallops with just a touch of butter. What a pairing! First nose impression was both tropical and mineral, but the taste softened a bit when sipped with the salty scallops. Continued sipping well after the meal, and enjoyed it, very refreshing on this warm and blustery day here in Vegas. This may well be my new favorite lighter bodied white wine. Thanks for bringing me back to this slightly forgotten gem.
I love Muscadet! I don't have extensive experience with it, but what I have has been good. Crisp with good acidity. I hope to be able to find these wines and report back.