This is what happens when youth who weren't alive at the time they're referencing try to recreate it. What they've achieved is a rather ugly pastiche of the 50s, 60s and 70s.
They should've talked to people who ate out in that era to find the best, not the worst of it.
They should've talked to people who ate out in that era to find the best, not the worst of it.
I would also suggest deep-fried ice cream as an '80s-era dish. During the latter half of the '80s I worked as a maitre d' & dined out often, so it would be fun to check out Juniper Commons & see how much they have that I remember from those days.
1
Juniper Commons has " one of the most comprehensive gin programs in the city" . Funny, I'm old enough to remember the '80s and I don't remember any restaurants with 150 kinds of gin and 24 kinds of tonic. This sounds kind of pretentious and 2015ish to me.
As far as the food (and decor) goes, there is not much that was distinctive or unique to the '80s and what little there was is not found at this restaurant, so this is a pretty thin concept on which to stake a restaurant. Duck a l'orange - not particularly 80s. Prime rib - not particularly '80s. Etc. I suspect this restaurant will evoke the '80s (or some fantasy version thereof) more for people who never lived in that decade (except perhaps as toddlers) than for those who did.
I suppose the '60s have been done to death and the '70s are appealing to no one (yet - look for a '70s comeback) so that left the '80s and 150 kinds of gin.
As far as the food (and decor) goes, there is not much that was distinctive or unique to the '80s and what little there was is not found at this restaurant, so this is a pretty thin concept on which to stake a restaurant. Duck a l'orange - not particularly 80s. Prime rib - not particularly '80s. Etc. I suspect this restaurant will evoke the '80s (or some fantasy version thereof) more for people who never lived in that decade (except perhaps as toddlers) than for those who did.
I suppose the '60s have been done to death and the '70s are appealing to no one (yet - look for a '70s comeback) so that left the '80s and 150 kinds of gin.
5
It's really 60's and 70's food. I was a country club chef in the early 80's, trying to do what was then referred to as "new American cuisine" ala Jeremiah Tower, Jonathan Waxman, etc. A fair portion of my clientele still clamored for exactly the kind of food that these guys are serving.
2
The decor alone confirms that - chevrons, orange plaid and amber were all 70s elements.
Their menu is far more reminiscent of a family seashore place.
Their menu is far more reminiscent of a family seashore place.
This looks like a great spot. Many things besides the table-side salad bar that sounds delicious.
2
I was hoping more from this article as this new establishment is part of a new trend in instilling the classics back into food and restaurants. Look at the recent articles on Prime Rib, how restaurants are reverting back to the classics. The basics. Where you do not need fancy molecular formulas, explanations, and a dictionary while dining. The majority of this article is devoted to the decor and less about the food. I got salad bar for food from this piece and if that is truly the shining moment here for food, I'd say this is a tough sell. Their online menu showcases a raw bar, Nightly specials and a double cheeseburger. Sounds pretty darn good to me.
I hope the inspiration from the 80s resides in the simplicity of the food and quality of ingredients to let the dishes shine and less about the allure of the salad bar.
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I hope the inspiration from the 80s resides in the simplicity of the food and quality of ingredients to let the dishes shine and less about the allure of the salad bar.
Check out my recipe blog: https://www.tumblr.com/blog/erezschnaittacherfood
And restaurant reviews:
www.erezschnaittacher.com
3
Sounds fun! I wish them luck.
Glad to hear the Pub is still there. Fond memories of family birthday dinners there and other special occasions.
Everything Nick said. I remember them bringing a relish cart to the table too.
Dad and his brother always had Manhattans. Drive back to Trenton was kind of scary
Glad to hear the Pub is still there. Fond memories of family birthday dinners there and other special occasions.
Everything Nick said. I remember them bringing a relish cart to the table too.
Dad and his brother always had Manhattans. Drive back to Trenton was kind of scary
1
I wish Juniper Commons success, and was interested to read that the owners visited the Pub for inspiration - that restaurant, which apparently is still going strong, is somewhat of a surviving relic and has largely held on to the '60's era and earlier - medieval-themed interior with open grills, serving steaks, iceberg wedges, etc -- a big night out for families back in that era.
6
Along with the ashtrays, I hope they also ordered matchbooks or matchboxes with the name of the restaurant. That would be a great 80s touch. Looking forward to eating there soon.
3
Salad bars, if handled well, are a fun and good thing. We actually have one at a Ruby Tuesday's here in Hot Springs. It's the reason I go there. And what's so bad about raspberry vinegar? I used to make my own and make the quintessentially '80s salad dressing, raspberry vinaigrette.
1
Mr. Sbraga is a Top Chef winner -- Season 7 -- and deservedly so. His food was always (and still is apparently) interesting and well-thought out.
1
Does anyone aside from me remember raspberry vinegar? Back in the '80s it was a common item on menus and in recipes. Please don't bring it back.
6
Au contraire! I still use it today. One dish that it works well for me is a seared fois gras with candied ginger and a raspberry vinegar maple syrup gastric. My clients always want that recipe.
1
We've been to Spraga twice and greatly enjoyed the innovative food. It's like dining at the winning restaurant on "Restaurant Wars" on Top Chef. We only wish Chef Sbraga well in his new venture. We will try Juniper Commoms out the next time we are in Philly, which is now a great restaurant town.
1
Yes! This sounds hilarious. Salad bars are so embarrassingly 80's but somehow also delicious. Great way to get away from the "Lonely, Professional Woman At The Salad Bar" scene. I went to college in Philadelphia in the 80's and this dorky place could tempt me to do a reunion tour with my merry band of warriors.
6
No, it wasn't the 50's style Jetsonesque chairs, or the post-2000 LED drop fixtures, or the open kitchen design, or even the decidedly Key West meets Queen Victoria while she's high on crack color scheme. It wasn't the incoherent and clingy melange of foods with fake pedigrees. Nor is it the hilarious salad tray composed of what seem to be plates picked off one of those japanese conveyer belt sushi places.
The thing of it is, I have a collection of Gourmet magazines that goes back to the fifties and not a single one is "yellowed" They are printed on glossy stock and endure the the passing of time with grace and finesse. If you want yellowed, refer to the 40's and 50's publication that was Gourmet's rival. It was printed on cheap newsprint ( which prior to the 80's was less cheap and took much longer to yellow) .
I do recall having buckets of shrimp in the rough at the outdoor Bethesda Fountain Cafe in Central Park during the 70's when my art director and I used to spend long lunch hours brainstorming campaigns - but I think what we got here is a bucket with something other than shrimp in it.
By the way - unless you were in a juke joint you didn't hear 80's music in restaurants in the 80"s. You heard Muzak.
Any cellophane wrapped mini-mints at the register? Hmmm.