36 Hours in Barolo, Italy

A great way to learn about the Piedmont is by learning to cook its delightful dishes. PerCorsi Culinari is a low key,high value experience with charming hosts and cooks. It has taught us to love this part of Italy above all others.

My daughter and I were recently in Piemonte and had many incredible food and wine experiences, as well as going truffle hunting, tasting our way through the International Slow Food Cheese Festival in Bra, and visiting a family-run hazelnut orchard and processing facility (you'll never eat the mainstream chocolate hazelnut spread again after tasting what this family produces!). We were taken with the many wonderfully friendly people we met during our stay. It was our good fortune to have our experiences arranged by Claudia at Slowdays; she is an Alba native who loves her province and and knows well its hidden gems. We will be back soon!

What a great article! I almost fell out my chair when I read this, since my friends and I have been here in Piedmont since Tuesday. It felt like we are following in the writer’s footsteps—we ate (and drank) at La Vita Turchese and Locanda Fontanazzo, both of which are great. The 8 wine tasting for 13 euros at Cantina Comunale Di La Morra is a fantastic deal, and the staff there are friendly and knowledgeable. We’re off to the White Truffle Fair as I write this. This article is a great place to start if you are visiting Barolo, though if you have more time in the region, I would highly recommend that you reach out to Valerie Quintanilla of A Girl’s Gotta Drink if you are looking for ideas on lodging, restaurants, vineyards, etc. She arranged an an incredible itinerary featuring amazing private dinners with chefs and wine makers for us.

I loved our visit to the Piedmont. Barolo was a little too crowded for us. Stayed in Barbaresco which was spectacular and perfect for day trips throughout the region. Don't miss trying the hazelnuts which are far different from US ones.

The Barolo Grill, in Denver, CO. is the place to go if you want a great Italian dinner with fine Barolo wines. Try it, without spending the money to go to Italy, and Denver is a nice city to visit.

Fabulous area. I was in and around Barolo for most of a day about 8 years ago. Interestingly this area was very poor at one time. It was also a stronghold for the partisan fighters against the Italian fascists and the German occupiers of Italy during WWII. I note the reference to the "I borghi più belli d'Italia" website. I discovered that website about a month ago, when thinking of places to visit on 10 day trip to Italy completed last week. The theme of that trip, as I call it, was Etruscans, so most of the focus was on Etruscan sites and museums south of Bologna and north of Rome. The only village on that list - most beautiful villages - that we had time to see was the mountain village Alagna at the end of the road into Valsesia in the northern part of Piedmont.

I was just there in September. We thought Barolo was like Disneyland (for wine). It is beautiful but felt somewhat sterile. The wine education center is fun for tasting wines from vending machines. It is a beautiful region.

Great article and beautiful pictures. I added it to my long list of places to visit.

Another great, less visited spot is to stay at the inn in the little hill village of Castiglione Falleto, walk next door to a Vietti wine tasting in the ancient fortifications, bike small roads to Montforte and other towns and eat at the wonderful Ristorante L'Argaj. Don't miss the community wine tasting program in a tunnel near a wonderful view spot (nearly free with numerous interesting wines).

Yet more inspiration for an Italian return. Beautifully supported by Susan Wright’s wonderful images!

Made this trip two years ago, breathtakingly beautiful part of the world. A tip: Il Campanile hotel in the countryside just west of Bra. An 18th c. monastery restored by a husband and wife team, a beautiful, peaceful place, and the restaurant is amazing.

We’ve been going to Barolo since the early 2000’s and the article highlights many of the area’s special sights. Just having been there last month we noticed how the crowds have increased especially this time of the year with harvest and of course the Alba white truffle festival in full swing. Oh well, this best kept secret is no longer so. The nice thing about Barolo itself is that if you stay in the village, you feel as if you have the place to yourself once the crowds leave. La Morra is wonderful, as is Monforte, Serralunga, and on and on. Having a car is a must. There are so many nice places to get a meal other than what are mentioned because in 36 hours, there are only so many you can hit. La Cantinetta and Osteria Cantinella, both in Barolo are highly recommended. Bra, the Slow Food capital is worth visiting especially if you go for lunch or dinner at Osteria del Boccondivino before or after exploring the town. I could go on and on but what I can say is that 36 hours doesn’t do the area any justice. It should be taken in slowly otherwise you’ll miss too much. This is why we have to keep going back.

Thanks for highlighting! Our favorite restaurants in Neive are Degusto Enoteca and Donna Selvatica.

I just opened an '09 Barolo yesterday! What a great article to read as I finish off the bottle tonight. Now it seems I should book a ticket!

Shhh, please don’t tell the Somms etc. about something real.

Ah yes! What a great region, we go there every two years roughly. A visit to the center of the Barolo you can find several good wine tasting rooms from local producers and just up the hill you'll find Viberti Giovanni where this young producer who took over at 21 for his family and is making great wines by day and serving great food at night at Buon Padre where his grandmother is still the cook. Visit all the villages mentioned and Alba is also worth it and is Cuneo as well. Our best day was spent renting electric bikes and visiting as many hilltops villages as possible stopping to sip coffee in the morning and wine in the afternoon.

A trip to Asti for a visit to the Osteria del Diavolo is highly recommended; stopping on the way in Barrbaresco - my favorite Gaja Nebbiolo.

Enchanting! The photos capture the essence of Old World Italy. Bravo!

Thank you Ingrid for a beautifully written article. I am ready to book a flight knowing that ravioli del plin is waiting for me among all the other delights of Barolo. Sigh.....

Piedmont is great! We were just there and loved it, but you did not mention Bovio Ristorante, walking distance from La Morra. Food, wine, views, service all spectacular, one of our favorite restaurants ever.

Truffles are great, pasta is boring. My problem with Barolo is to find in a wine store a bottle of red that would not be tannic. And I tried it over a wide range of prices.

I was just there! “Nebbiolo” comes from the root word for fog or mist — cloud, really. That’s what the weather was the whole time I was there. It usually is in the fall. But it was a thrill to be in Barolo, the Vatican of all wine regions — for me at least. I recommend staying somewhere in or very near a village, like Barolo or Barbaresco. I was staying at a lovely AirB at the end of a long maze of small curvy roads. I made reservations for dinners I didn’t want to keep when it got dark. Another aviso: white truffles are highly volatile and are at their height only a day or two once they’ve been plucked out of the ground. If you’re going for shaved truffles on your food, I recommend doing a dig-your-own adventure and taking that gem to a restaurant for them to shave in front of you. Or some such setup. I got the distinct feeling that the expensive truffles I was paying for at restos didn’t come with certification of their age in the air. The Fair was thrilling. The truffle oil, all dated, is a fabulous idea for gifts. Alba hosts medieval street festivals in October. A worthy attraction too.