I have her book and my husband and I stayed at their Inn several times years ago. One morning, before our departure, Claudia left me a little package of her ruglach with a lovely note.
We cherish our memories of our stays with her and Gerry. Wishing her lots of luck in her new ventures!
1
There are a few comments saying this is a puff piece -- if so it has many delicate layers, leavened with life's tragedies and triumphs.
Being a chef is a tough job, and Claudia has grace, perseverance and tenacity. Anyone who's worked in a hot professional kitchen knows this.
9
Evidence that a woman can marry someone who was "her boss" and have a successful & dignified life & career. Their devotion to each other in sickness and in health is not covered as much as other aspects of her story, but it seems to be an important part of her growth and humanity. Something to think about in an increasingly lamentable era where dating in the workplace has been banned outright in many places where "power disparities" exist, and dating within a company is considered risky, irrespective of people's relative power relations. It seems in the US that people whose lives are largely dedicated to their work are expected to secure their romantic fate on Tinder or some other misinformation-based electronic marketplace, or simply stay single. Claudia Fleming serves as an example of someone who seems to have found happiness in marriage via a path that's now forbidden (notably in an industry where a few bullies like Mario Batali have created an image of abuse as the norm). Some of the happiest marriages and families I've ever seen have resulted from relationships that started in the workplace. Even when "the boss" was involved. Something to think about in the increasingly paranoid, self-policing world that seems to have quickly evolved in the wake of #MeToo militants and their sympathizers in the mass media having usurped the debate on how we are supposed to live our lives, even where mutual consent is involved. I'll bet dinner at Claudia & Gerry's was wonderful.
3
I spent about a year in thrall to Claudia Flemming's Gramercy Tavern gingerbread cake. So very delicious!
A side note: she seems to be getting more beautiful with age. Something one can aspire to.
15
Wonderful article. The last photo of Claudia is stunning. She's strong and beautiful.
11
I have the honor to say that I worked with Claudia at Gramercy Tavern in the pastry department all those years ago. I am very sorry to read about the passing of her husband. She was an amazing person to work with. I say "with" instead of "for" because that was part of the magic of working in the kitchen at Gramercy - we worked as a team and made some great food. I learned a ton from her which I have taken and used in my professional life as I have owned a bakery now for the past 19 years. I am happy to read that she is still pursuing her passion. Well done Claudia! Thank you for your inspiration!
21
A heart warming article. Thank you.
10
What a nice story. Thank you.
12
She was one essential ingredient that Danny Meyer put together to make Gramercy Tavern the great restaurant it is from day 1. Best of everything to her.
14
An interesting life, especially going along with what I just read here about Mr Sherman, the Sioux Chef - two very different stories, indeed, but both great to read. I wish Ms Fleming well and only wish that we could taste some of her desserts on the West coast.
4
It’s easy to be a waiter when you have a great kitchen backing you up. Gramercy Tavern was the easiest serving job I’ve ever held, and Claudia’s desserts were a major part of that. Working with Claudia was a privilege.
24
Creativity is sometimes controversial. Serving artful food is a concept that doesn't always blend well with certain life circumstances, but once in a while a refined, well-prepared meal can inspire and nourish in ways we may not expect.
7
What a well written article. How she came to make a successful career for herself doing what she loved is an inspiration. No wonder her out of print books sell for so much. The Love that she had for her husband whom she cared for is also an inspiration. That must have been an extremely difficult time and something that one does not recover from quickly or easily. The Love and Passion she had for her husband and work are certainly examples to be emulated! It really is the ...American Dream !! Passionate people ...always succeed !!
16
The world doesn't need "pastry chefs", or the outrageously overpriced restaurants that employ them.
The NYT is always running on about the sorrows of the poor and deprived in our society. Turn the (electronic) page, and it advertises the joys of meals that cost hundreds of dollars, several days' wages if we ever get a $15 minimum. What world do its editors and writers live in, or think its readers live in?
5
@Jonathan Katz ….Well there was a little more to the story...she wanted to be a Ballerina but stumbled upon something she enjoyed and took it to a level that others could enjoy. She did so well that her out of print books sell for hundreds....a good indication she must have done something right and others are trying too. Her husband was diagnosed with ALS and she cared for him for a few years which must have been heartbreaking for her. The Love she had for her husband as well as her passion for her work made her a success. As you say...the world doesn't need pastry chefs..but it sure brings joy into peoples lives. The World could also use more people who Love and are passionate about what they do...those are generally the most successful in life. The world could also use more Love....and someone who'd care for a dying spouse for years certainly deserves more praise than criticism. Perhaps negativity is just a sign of the sad cynical and divisive time we live in.
63
@Jonathan Katz Nor do we need writers, painters, musicians, actors, or any of those other "creatives" that make sometimes expensive things that we enjoy and find uplifting.
46
Geesh, she was a hard working and influential pastry chef. This is the food and dining section, not the food and economic justice section.
38
To Julia, I love this piece, deeply written and dreamily, too. I once sent you a note critiquing another piece so please accept my compliments now.
And to Ms. Fleming, deep condolences and much praise for your strength and passion. I'd love to know you.
To those who snarked: It's not a puff piece (not sure you know what one is); great chefs who are also great people don't deserve such picky comments; and, as for jer in tiverton...flabbergasted. Have some respect.
22
@susan um. Susan. I wrote against those who snarked. If this is not a puff piece (a phrase carefully chosen cause um of pastry theme) then I don’t know what one is. Point: nothing wrong with that for this fine artist of a chef. She is a long time friend of The Times — co-wrote a book with one of its main food writers—and the article is in fact a well written carefully complimentary puff piece (if you look that up you might see something about a journalistic piece that excessively praises a person product or event). Again I marvel at the snippetiness of pastry fans who layer snark upon snark to no good end.
6
She must have made that to-die-for chocolate cake that was on the pre-fix lunch menu for so many years. What a nice story to read this morning.
10
Living in France and having not infrequently been disappointed in the desserts I’ve had in some top French restaurants, maybe it’s time for for some of those French chefs who perhaps trained with Ms. Fleming in Paris, to come over to New York and learn from her. I’d take that chocolate caramel tart over more complicated, albeit exquisite, desserts in a heartbeat.
14
We were introduced to Claudia and Gerry by a friend who helped decorate their restaurant. Who knew that years later, living in a city of great restaurants, we still talk about the North Fork Table which became our favourite restaurant. We also compare many restaurants' service to the perfection of NFT.
Occasionally we play our "food" game: It's one thing to remember a great restaurant, it's another thing to remember specific dishes. Try it. Without a doubt, from Manhattan to Montauk, south shore to north shore, North Fork Table is the restaurant that wins the "specific dish" challenge for us.
Thank you Claudia (and Gerry) for giving us so many great memories.
17
I was not alone in first hearing of Gramercy Tavern because of Fleming's desserts, and in my opinion, they lived up to the hype. To eat her desserts was to discover that dessert could and should be the equal of the preceding courses in creativity, quality of ingredients, flavor, texture, and execution.
Fleming's cookbook stands apart from so many others. It is organized by flavor: her "Cherry Cheesecake Tart with a Red Wine Glaze" is in a chapter called "Stone Fruits" rather than "Tarts". Unlike many famous restaurants' cookbooks, Fleming's is well-adapted for home cooking, showing flexibility ("The texture of this dessert will depend on your waffle iron") and detailed instructions. Whereas many cookbooks introduce recipes with stories about friends or where the recipe came from, she uses her recipe introductions to discuss flavor and ingredients ("When pecans are toasted until very dark and combined with sugar, they take on a slight yet distinct maple flavor") and details of technique ("to get the fullest, deepest color, I let the grapes macerate overnight"). Her cookbook constantly suggests pairings, and she has a whole section on composing desserts. Even if you like food but don't cook dessert, her cookbook is a worthwhile read.
Whatever she creates next will be amazingly delicious.
23
Glad to have run across this article. I have her book but it's been tucked away for a while. I think I'll pull it out for Thanksgiving dessert inspiration. I had the good fortune of eating her desserts at Gramercy Tavern and they were wonderful.
17
I loved this article. I had not heard of Claudia Fleming, not being a New Yorker. But it is such an interesting story, about her, and food, and culture and city history, and how a creative and strong person is living her life after such a terrible illness and death of her husband. It was inspiring to read about, and I do thank her for sharing her experiences and the Times for publishing it. (And I really wonder about the odd comments of a couple of the snarky people who wrote about it! Really? Really? What is up with that?)
24
I am so happy to see this book back in print. I've long regretted that I didn't pick up a copy when it was first available. I've taken the book out of the library and made some of the recipes, and eaten at both Gramercy Tavern when she was there and at the North Fork Table and Inn. She's a wonderful chef and the book is fantastic.
18
Craziness. Don't people have more important things to think about than the "perfect" dessert?
Just eat an apple.
5
Food and dessert can be just as much inspiration as art for some (myself included). Delights that spark joy and provide nourishment for the soul. A perfectly crisp fall New England apple can do the same but so can a perfectly executed dessert. I applaud and appreciate the chefs efforts!
43
Do you know how many carbs are in an apple??
4
@Jonathan Katz I only like apples when they are in pies.
9
From one widow(er) to another - You Go, Girl!
28
You sold me on the book, and it will be dreaming tonight about that chocolate caramel tart.
The following made me laugh, though:
...the owner Danny Meyer said he hired her before she sat down for an interview. “Even from half a room away, I could feel her warmth, poise, and intelligence,” he wrote in the preface to “The Last Course.” She moved into the kitchen there as a line cook...
That’s how you choose you line cooks?
9
@Passion for Peaches
I went to hear Danny Meyer speak a few months back, and he talked about how he hired everyone for his restaurants -- that if they had the right attitude and intelligence, if they had no restaurant experience he'd start them out answering phones, taking reservations -- and from there he could train them. That who they are as people is as important as their kitchen skills. Skills can be taught, but who you are can't.
41
It made me a little bit angry, but that’s just me.
2
@Sharon M I was a pastry chef and one of the best employees I ever had was a former long-time flight attendant. She had no experience but I figured that she was a fast learner, and could do anything asked of her. I was right and she was great in the kitchen.
5
Gosh who knew pastry fans were no snippity. This was a puff piece for a woman who really needs it after being down on her luck. And she’s a friend of The Times, so she’s a friend of mine. To make an old —even ancient—set of ingredients feel, look and taste new... to create a “buzz” around a dessert— these are artistic gifts and Fleming has them. Much luck on the rebound.
39
My husband and I have always loved every single dessert Claudia created at Gramercy in the dining room and private events we hosted(40th birthday!). We also enjoyed dinner and a night at their B&B. Splendid of course. We own her cookbook too.
This is a warm hug to Claudia and a thank you. I remember seeing that her husband had died and it made us very sad. Our deepest sympathies 4 years later.
May your days ahead be filled with sweetness and joy. Best wishes-Annette and Noah Osnos
28
An absolute legend. A whole discipline of American pastry arts starts with Claudia
39
Her next act should be to teach and inspire pastry students with the knowledge they need to be successful. Perhaps she could use her contacts to arrange internships for these students. That would be a legacy to be proud of, instead of just making expensive desserts for the rich.
9
Thank you, Ms. Moskin, for a very inspiring story . . . I wish Ms. Fleming every happiness and success in her new ventures.
29
I don't particularly like dessert, preferring a fine drink after dinner instead. But...Claudia's desserts are, as the title of the book suggests, an actual course in the dinner, and they bring me the same joy as any main course. Basically, they just make me smile, involuntarily, even though I've had them dozens of times before.
Thank you for that!
15
@Steve Muth
Sometimes a fine drink is perfect....
I personally appreciate really good desserts even more when I can have them on their own, and savor them as an entity unto themselves.
I'm surprised at the nasty comments on this story. I think Claudia Fleming's story is inspiring and I will definitely buy the book and I don't even like to cook!
44
Go to marthastewart.com and search for Claudia Fleming. You will find her recipe for Chocolate Caramel Tarts, which originally appeared in the August 2002 issue of Martha Stewart Living.
But can I just say, I don't think chefs should be celebrities.
9
@DesertFlowerLV, thanks for that. The recipe looks fairly easy, but I could see tweaking the salt and crispness of the tart shell, or trying different types of chocolate. It’s a good template. (They are round tartlets in that rendition. The rectangles here look more modern and unique.)
4
@DesertFlowerLV , this IS the Food column in the NYT. Why can't a chef be a celebrity in her/his field? What is more deserving, in your opinion for celebrity status? A movie actor?
and ps, Martha Stewart is quite a celebrity for her cooking and cookbooks etc.
26
@DesertFlowerLV I'd rather see a chef be a celebrity than any of the Kartrashians.
55
I’m thrilled. New isn’t always better. This book will be a fabulous gift for home bakers and pastry chefs alike. I wrote to CF and the publisher a few years ago begging for exactly this. I did not know about the tragic events which may have led to it. Wishing you the very best, CF. Onward!
39
@Elle
Well, when you start really looking at things there's really nothing "new", just revision.
All of Fleming's desserts have precedents. There is nothing novel about the chocolate caramel tart, a focus here, in the least. She does execution well, plating/presentation well, self-promotion well.
I had the pleasure of attending a 1-day event with her many years ago, cooking 2 desserts, she was a stickler on the details. It was a benefit for God's Love We Deliver. Thought it was a casual have fun type thing, but she put us to work! Monitored and reprimanded!
Anyhow, for me her best is the Guinness Stout gingerbread cake, although I must say it's a recipe for disaster. It's taken many years to refine it to something that comes out successful. But even that was well-trod territory.
8
@Matthew
If I could, I'd have my 11yr old roll her eyes at you...Of course nothing is really new. The previous commentator was referencing how refreshing it is to republish the cook vs. authoring a new book.
But, of course, you knew that. You just wanted to guest lecture this wonderful column about a wonderful pastry chef.
21
@Matthew
All musicians have access to the same notes on the scale. Yet there are songs that give you goosebumps, songs that represent milestones in your life, songs that remind you of someone you still love so deeply you can barely catch your breath, and songs that sell cars in TV commercials.
They all use many of the same notes, but oh, the great ones use them in ways no one thought of before. That's creating art. That's what we live for.
17
Hmmm.
The chocolate caramel tart which is pictured in this wonderful article is completely different than the chocolate caramel tart recipe which is featured.
I was really hoping there would be a recipe for the tart that was photographed because they look amazing and easy to hold while devouring.
15
Guess it’s good that I still have my copy. But it’s by no means the big deal made here. Surprising that, after all this time and having run the inn, she’s not coming out with a new one.
@jer Perhaps she was too busy running the inn and caring for her dying husband to write another book.
Separately, since you don't seem to think it's a big deal book, I know plenty of chefs who would gladly take your copy off your hands.
112
@A Clearly, jer from tiverton has never lost a husband who was ill from Lou Gehrig's disease for many years while trying to run an inn.
30
@A ...I agree with you whole heartedly...Is the negativity we see in American Culture today just a sign of the Times we live in....or were so many of us always so uncaring and rude? Claudia deserves more empathy and respect !! Dealing with her husband's illness and caring for him is ...I'm sure.. just another ..example of her fine character as well as her Passion to always do her Best !! All the Best To You Claudia !!
3
“That was literally unheard-of at the time.”
Please, it totally was heard of. Worked in many NYC restos from 1980-6. Lots of women in the kitchens, 2 of which were run by women and no one thought anything of it one way or the other.
15
@Matthew The women and the male jerks they dealt with daily certainly "thought of it." Documented sexism and harassment were (and are) commonplace.
Insufferable and dismissive, much?
1
I'm so excited that this book to going be reissued. I've been looking for a copy for years.
But why include a link to a recipe by Claudia Roden? I think you've got your Claudias confused.
13