Now you’ve done it! I guess we’ll just have to deal with a few more tourist on top of the hordes from the cruise ships that ply the waters, most of whom thankfully don’t spend time in Cádiz on their shore excursions.
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Nice informative article. Why no map?
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I've found walking tours, free (tip-based) and otherwise, to be a fantastic way of getting an introduction to a city and its history. Being on foot slows things down enough that you get a chance to take in things.
So much depends on the guide in these, but the ones I've had have been great.
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Some unjustified shade thrown on Pelinkovac here. It's a great bitter. Think akin to Jaegermeister.
Cadiz and Jerez are wonderful places. Sherry culture is amazing in Jerez, but the family owned bodegas are being squeezed out by the corporate producers. See it before it disappears.
Ate at El Faro (mentioned in the piece) and I have a memorable photo of the fresh fish on ice right next to the hanging Jamon Iberico.
The old city in Cadiz truly is lived in, and a visit to the market is worth the time. Beautiful fresh food that the locals are actually buying and selling (not just a display for the tourists).
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I spent a wonderful day in Cádiz, strolling around looking for fried anchovies and handmade espadrilles. I quickly found both and neither disappointed in their quality. It was a comfortable, navigable, livable sort of place with history around every corner and I hope to return soon.
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I was in Cadiz in 2007, one of the cities we stayed in on our Andalucian honeymoon. It is a sleepier town than Seville or Cordova, but that is a nice change. There's an old square, near the museum featuring Phoenician treasures, that you could sit for hours listening to the breeze and locals filtering in and out. It's a lived-in city, which is part of the charm. I'm glad the author mentioned El Faro, it truly is the best restaurant in the city with amazing paella, and the best service I have ever experienced, lovely people. You will need to know basic Spanish to visit this city.
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Do not miss Cadiz's little museum. 5 millennia of art brought together with the specificity that only small local museums seem to pull off.
Also, take the Vapor, a small passenger boat across the bay to Puerta Santa Maria where you can hear flamenco, eat shellfish by the bucket or see a small castle tucked in among the apartment blocks before you take the Cercancia, the local train back to Jerez.
Once you get to Jerez, sell all you own back home and dedicate your life to flamenco.
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I just want to say I LOVE the 52 Places Traveler. Thank you so very much for glimpses of worlds not mine and splendid.
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I visit Jerez every year for feria. it is an incredible experience. From Jerez we travel to San Lucar de Barrameda whichj has the most incredible beach. Both places are not to be missed on your visit to Andalusia.
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I visited Cadiz in 2017 and enjoyed it immensely. After whirlwind days in Madrid and Sevilla, it was a great place for a break. Be aware it is a small place and you can walk the entire city in less than 2 days. Definitely helps to be able to speak Spanish. Also it lacks selfie sites (except perhaps the central market) if you're that kind of traveller.
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Sebastian's work has quickly become my favorite section in the NYT. Grateful for your insight into hidden neighborhoods and historic venues I would have otherwise missed. Safe Travels!
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Excellent article on a forgotten place. I like the insight and local perspective. Thank goodness there is some authentic locations left in this Instagram world.
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Beautiful write-up of a city where I've not been. Now that will change, thank you!
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Go to the Cadiz carnival in February. The next one runs from 20 February to 1 March next year. They are stupendous occasions focussed on music and fancy dress. If you can't get accommodation in the town itself, stay in Sevilla (another city that you must visit before you die) and go down on the train, which will be thronged with carnival-goers dressed as pretty much anything you can imagine. And expect to stay up all night on the Friday and Saturday.
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After reading this "52 Places to Go in 2019" I'm even more enthused about the Spanish Conversation course I signed at the local SUNY affiliated community college.
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Spent a day there on a cruise stop...it was lovely!
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One of my favorite places in Spain. It is the place Spaniards go to vacation.
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Stop telling people about secret wonderful places to visit! Barcelona, Sevilla, Grenada and Madrid have already been ruined by mass tourism. Leave Cadiz alone! If you’re a dedicated traveler you will find wonderful secret places. If you need the New York Times to tell you about it, stay in Barcelona! Over tourism is destroying Europe. It’s not an exaggeration. It makes many areas of these great cities absolutely unlivable for local residents. Your Airbnb rentals force up prices and push us out of our city centers. Your trinket shops and terrible quality restaurants take over entire neighborhoods. I’m sick of dodging selfie sticks waving around in front of every last thing as I try to walk to work. Europe is not Disneyland!
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