What a beautifully-written, evocative journey to Delphi!
Liz Alderman is an extraordinary travel writer, and her lyrical descriptions of a haunting and compelling area are wonderfully illustrated by the photographs of Maria Mavropoulou.
4
Delphi is the most beautiful of many beautiful sites in Greece. This is my opinion, but also that of many of my American students who come here for a semester or a year in order to learn things Greek.
Unfortunately, there are many errors regarding the site in this piece, and even about Apollo himself. This is unfortunate. Outside of Delphi, however, in other of the quaint villages in the area, Liz is right on track, and I'm glad she recommends paying relaxing visits to these areas, and that she took the time to visit them.
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Lovely travelogue, wonderfully written. I've been to Delphi three times and come away with a deep sense of how it became the spiritual and religious center of the Hellenic world. The peace one feels walking the ruins is contrasted by the thought of how busy it must have been in ancient times, with travellers in a pilgrimage to the soul of intellect. I will never forget the view of the olive trees filling the valley below as one drives through the mountain pass down to Itea.
2
Mythology is a powerful force. It was the reason for my decision to spend six years in the Aegean. Of note is that the Oracle was originally a priestess -- and that her prophecies form the basis for the play Oedipus Rex as well as figure into the collective psyche. The Castalian (not Castilian) Spring was considered a source of poetic inspiration, as in Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz's Inondacíon Castálida. Renaissance and Baroque poets utilize the figure of the Castalian Spring as shorthand for inspiration.
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Beautiful article. Please refrain from unnecessary use of ‘lady’.
https://helloclue.com/amp/articles/culture/lets-talk-about-word-lady
A few years ago I took a road trip through all of the major sites in the Peloponnese and ended up in Delphi. My wife and two books were my traveling companions. One of the books was the most influential surviving example of ancient mythology the epic "Metamorphoses" by the Roman poet Ovid, which recounts how certain mortals were turned into animals or plants as a result of their encounters with the gods.
The other was "The Marriage of Cadmus and Harmony," by Roberto Calasso. Mark Lefkowitz in a New York Times review says the book “…leaves the reader with some lingering sense that what seemed remote and forgotten is in some way part of his own very different world.”
On my first day at Delphi a storm drifted into that magnificent valley. Thunder rumbled and a gentle rain fell making the site come alive. I felt the smallest glimmer of understanding thanks to these two incredible books.
If you travel to Delphi take these books with you. Your experience will be heightened Immeasurably.
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So glad to see a recommendation for The Marriage of Cadmus and Harmony. A hearty second for it.
1
Sleep in Delphi and get to the ruins as soon as they open, instead of just day tripping from Athens. I had that wonderful experience and for about 45 minutes I largely had the ruins to myself. The town makes for a wonderful evening, the morning walk to the site is still not too hot, and before the crowds descend - you can close your eyes and imagine the ancient hustle bustle and oracle-ing that once populated the space....
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How beautiful. Is there no way that cruise ships can be abolished?
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Thanks for reminding us that there are still remote and gloriously beautiful places like this to visit and enjoy...perhaps it's not too late yet for us to embark on the last great adventure of our lives.
3
As, a high school English teacher, I took students on European trips. "A Tale of Two Cities." to London and Paris; "Literary Landscapes of Britain," to England, Ireland, and Wales; "Belle Italia," a tour of Italy's literature and history; and "The Odyssey," a trip to Italy and Greece.
Delphi was amazing for many reasons. We stayed in the village, and all the shopkeepers and a club owner opened for us. I believe there was another group of students in town that night, and the kids dance the night away.
Our hotel had many different types of rooms, and the room of one foursome of girls overlooked the bay. I remember them running into my room, taking me by the hand, and rushing me back to see their breathtaking view. "Oh, Mrs. T.! Isn't it amazing?"
Our guide at the Oracle talked about how the ambiguity of the Oracle would always make her right. He gave us an example, which I remember to this day. In predicting the weather, he said:
Rain? No, sun.
and then
Rain, no sun.
Those student trips were the highlights of many of our lives. I still hear from former students today or run into them and they never fail to say, "Remember the...."
Yes, I do.
3
Thank you, Liz! I have been trying to dream up a holiday aligned with antiquity, and you’ve provided perfect inspiration and the itinerary.
1
A fascinating and informative piece, and the links are wonderful. Many thanks!
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As, a high school English teacher, I took students on European trips. "A Tale of Two Cities." to London and Paris; "Literary Landscapes of Britain," to England, Ireland, and Wales; "Belle Italia," a tour of Italy's literature and history; and "The Odyssey," a trip to Italy and Greece.
Delphi was amazing for many reasons. We stayed in the village, and all the shopkeepers and a club owner opened for us. I believe there was another group of students in town that night, and the kids dance the night away.
Our hotel had many different types of rooms, and the room of one foursome of girls overlooked the bay. I remember them running into my room, taking me by the hand, and rushing me back to see their breathtaking view. "Oh, Mrs. T.! Isn't it amazing?"
Our guide at the Oracle talked about how the ambiguity of the Oracle would always make her right. He gave us an example, which I remember to this day. In predicting the weather, he said:
Rain? No, sun.
and then
Rain, no sun.
Those student trips were the highlights of many of our lives. I still hear from former students today or run into them and they never fail to say remember the....
Yes, I do.
18
Wish you were my children' s teacher ! I can be a student again!!
4
@Global Citizen
Thanks!
OK, when do you want to go?
beautiful article on the magic of Delphi. I was there on a sunny day in December - the only sound in the entire valley the natives' banging on olive trees to make olives fall to the ground. Could not leave that sacred place for hours marvellously blessed to be there:
5
Before the God Apollo, was God Pan (ΠΑΝ means everything). His place was a cave above Delphi, "Kirikion Antro".
It's in the ancient path from the north that comes to Delphi. The very same path which in the ancient years people use to walk to and come to the Oracle. It is very well preserved and many people walk to it so they can see the view from above Delphi.
3
A marvelous travel piece, sublimely illustrated by Maria Mavropoulou's luminescent photography ... Bravo!
6
I once heard May Sarton read her poem about visiting the site of Delphi's oracle. If her experience left her shaken, the poem still has some of the same effect on me:
. . . "I tell you, the gods are still alive,
And they are not consoling. . .
. . . I have not spoken of this for three years,
And my ears still burn."
6
From my travels I have found certain vistas have a calming effect on me and the view from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi is one of them. The view of the olive groves is breathtaking and the grove looks silvery from the elevation of the Oracle. We stayed in the town of Delphi and did a very early morning trip to the site, the benefit being fewer visitors. By noon the path was crowded and the selfie sticks were out in abundance so we left. How can an outcropping of rock be so mesmerizing? I cannot answer that but I did feel a bit transformed for having visited there.
13
Well to call that cafe rustic is to believe that the Hudson Yards is a real place. And one that you would like to go to. This cafe is a perfect example of money blinding you to true beauty and style because this cafe has perfect sophistication that anyone who cannot recognize it should perhaps spend their time where they would like to be like the Hudson Yards.
1
Yes, we were in Delphi, may be 20-25 years ago. We went with our two teen-age kids.
Our daughter, now 42, saw this in the paper and forwarded it to me.
Yes, we all still remember. It was wonderful.
5
One of the best pieces of travel writing I've seen! Beauty awaits, that's clear. Thank you.
6
I enjoyed the article on Delphi and the photos. If you are in the area visit Arachova about 10 miles away. It has some great restaurants and seems to hang on the mountain side.
4
Gracias for the excellent and well edited photos!
2
Thanks for reminding me how wonderful this corner of the world is. The next town to the east, Arahova, is also a rewarding place to spend some time; great place for an ouzo and a game of backgammon!
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I live in Amphissa and I would like to thank you for your beautiful article. Everything written in it is so accurate, congratulatuons! Furthermore, your eyes have seen things of beauty that we, the locals, take for granted and tend to forget.
Thank you for showing us Delphi, we love it.
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This sounds so delicious, in all senses of the word, that I am saving the link to plan a future trip to Greece. Thanks, Times!
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Beautiful, awe-inspiring...traveled there many years ago with my husband. We went in the spring when there were not many tourists. At times we felt we had the entire place to ourselves. This article and pictures helped me relive that magical time.
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Once my companion and I discovered the delicious ripe mulberries in Delphi, we could no longer focus on the magnificent ruins and scenery!
6
Although the article swerved a bit on the flowery side I can assure you that the photos do not do justice to the place.It is
much more spectacular in reality.Of course it is to be avoided
In July-August with throngs of visitors roaming all over and
disregard kitschy souvenir shops and restaurants.Places farther
afield are very interesting combining sea and mountain peaks
In short distances.The archaeological museum gets very short
mention which is a pity because it is just impressive.Definitely
a place not to be missed if one is in this corner of Europe.
8
"Center of the World"? -- Hmm ... I always thought that in the Occident Jerusalem was considered the Center of the World, and in the Far East it was the capital of the Middle Kingdom, whatever it was at the moment.
@Tuvw Xyz In Greek mythology, Delphi was literally the center or "navel" of the world. As the article states, Delphi was said to be the place "where two eagles loosed by Zeus crossed paths at the earth's nexus"; they dropped the stone called the omphalos, "navel," to mark the spot.
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@Tuvw Xyz
Check the timeline. Ancient greek culture was there B.C.
And the cradle of Western civilisation is Ancient Greek one.
Much, much later - centuries later, The New Testament was written in - you can guess it - ancient Greek language (it was "Lingua Franca" of ancient times - even in Roman empire, much like English is today as a consequence of British Empire), because almost no one would read it in Galilean Aramaic the language, which was the language that Jesus would be speaking at that time.
And only after the New Testament was written, one to two centuries after alledged death of Christ, Jerusalem becomes "the centre" of western World.
"The centre” of which no one in Chinese empire, Parthian empire, Aztec empire, Mayan empire.. and others, knew nothing about.
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@Erik
Well said, Erik. Thanks for that astute clarification.
4
While anything in Ancient Greece is sacred and should be preserved, this place was not on my list when I visited Greece yrs. ago.
The birthplace of democracy symbolized the world over by the Parthenon was.
The birthplace of democracy over superstition anytime of the week.
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@Paul
Belief in Democracy, which has brought the United States Donald Trump and the United Kingdom Boris Johnson, is a supersitous belief that a group of people left to chose their own leaders will somehow pick better people than those that would be chosen in a meritocracy.
11
@JJ Athenian democracy was not based on elections--in fact, many public offices were filled by drawing lots. They considered elections inherently "undemocratic," favoring the rich, and had an institution called "ostracization" for temporarily exiling people who seemed to be getting more powerful than was good for the community.
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@Paul
The Parthenon was a religious, not a political structure. If there is an ancient Greek birthplace of democracy, it is the pynx where the Athenian ekklesia, the assembly, met. And not to forget the agora, where citizens (with all the limitations placed on who qualified) met for discussion and debate.
5
Lots of good restaurants in Galixidi, a surprising culinary phenom in the land of endless souvlaki, Greek salads and Moussaka. Skeletovrachos harbor side restaurant is an unassuming, under-the-radar, star attraction for lunch or dinner.
Delphi museum and archeological site open at 8, by 11 the place is overrun by busload tours. Summer temperatures in the mid to high 90's. Go early. Wear sensible shoes. Take water.
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@Reed Erskine - I have traveled extensively throughout Greece. It is possibly the most beautiful country in the world. Of all of the ruins that I have visited, Delphi is the most beautiful. As one reader noted, it is not possible to understand or capture the beauty of Delphi in pictures. We stayed in Galixidi when we visited and 100% agree - great food!
If you visit Greece in the summer. the ancient theater at Epidaurus is also worth a visit. During the summer festival plays are performed - both ancient and modern. Plays performed in Greek are translated into English on lit boards on either side of the stage. This does not deter at all from the amazing beauty of the theater, the famous acoustics, and the surrounding pine tree woodland. It is also magical!
5
Before you go, read Michael Scott’s 2014 book “Delphi, a history of the center of the ancient world.
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This piece makes me swoon.
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Delphi is over rated, overrun by tourists and tchotchke. But Galaxidi ... Bliss!
9
Go off season and it’s all yours.
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@Max duPont
Mr. duPont, in October Delphi was not overrun by tourists, nor was there a tchotchke in sight, but perhaps this is true in summer. And I will allow you Galaxidi. However, Delphi overrated, I will not grant you. I've seen some of the greatest museums and ancient sites in Greece and Delphi...oh, Delphi. The Twins, the Sphinx, the Charioteer, the Sanctuary of Apollo, the amphitheatre, the stadium, the Omphalos... It is impossible to rate it too high.
4
Went to Delphi back in the 80s when it was still blissfully quiet. Had a hotel room with the balcony overlooking the ravine. What a magical place! Thank you for this article.
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Loved our drive from Athens through the port towns northwest leading to Delphi, from Nafpaktos. The village of Galaxidi shouldn't be missed, be sure to dine at "O Bebelis"...the lovely owners spent lots of time chatting with us about the food and wine from the area. Even gave us a cookbook!
8
Lots of wonderful descriptions, advice, and ideas. I've longed to visit Greece all my life and hope to go in the next year or two. I'll bookmark this excellent article.
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Galaxidi was the central setting for "The Day the Fish Came Out" (1967), directed by Michael Cacoyannis. He had all the traditional white houses painted over in bright colors. It's good to see that they/most have reverted to the traditional whitewash white. Thanks for the evocative recounting of your travels, and the very fine photographs.
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Wonderful article. However, as someone who has visited this area multiple times, I can tell you that words and photographs do not and cannot begin to express and encompass the majesty and wonder engendered by a visit to Delphi and its environs.
54
Thank you for sharing this often overlooked region of Greece. My family lives in Itea and I visit almost every year. Had you continued past Galaxidi you find more small towns that seem more like the islands than than the mainland.
13
Beautiful piece -- I felt like I was there!
13
This is my poetic homage to Delphic that I've visited twice.
I made the long pilgrimage to Delphi.
Its ancient wind still whispers
mysterious, pithy prophecies
sealing the fate of empires.
Gods and men alike sought to possess
the oracle of destiny
only to become destiny’s prisoner.
There my ears were confined to solitude.
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Stunning Pictures.
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@John
It is not at all difficult to take stunning pictures in Greece.
5
Great article with a perfect suggestions to experience Delphi in depth.
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Was my great pleasure to visit Delphi for the second time just a couple of months ago. Extraordinary place and a true sense of walking through time. If you find yourself on the border between Itea and Kirra, make sure to grab lunch at the Zephyros taverna right on the water.
Local wine, local cheeses and local seafood right out of the water.
You won't regret it. Nice write-up of a wonderful part of a wonderful country.
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Beautiful- I wish I could be there this very moment. I just hope it doesn’t inspire a tourism rampage- the photos imply ancient roads less traveled these days.
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Delphi is even more magical if you can visit when there is a full moon. There was an amazing musical festival under the stars when we were there in August a few years ago.
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too many ads...especially the animated Louis Vitton? ones... it ruins a beautiful story and photographs...I am a digital subscriber... I would consider paying more for fewer ads...
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@james oakes
Just add an ad-blocker to your browser. I saw no ads at all in this piece.
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I have visited Delphi, and I now understand why the ancient Greeks thought the gods spoke to them there. The glorious mountain peaks, the ruins of Apollo's temple, the theater, the long distance view of the place where 3 roads meet (where Oedipus slew his father in the myth), the olive groves, cloud capped mount Olympus, all give wonderful substance to the stories about this magical place.
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This is beautiful writing!
20
You should have seen it in 1956 when I hitchhiked around Greece! No cars. Only a few trucks. Not a soul at Olympia or Epidaurus or Delphi. Utterly quiet.
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@Nancy You beat me by about 55 years, but fortunately , the car population was still rather small, as was the number of visitors at the site, which we had basically to ourselves.
Of all the countries I’ve been lucky enough to visit, Greece is hands down the most beautiful.
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Not bad for a day's work!
What a great travelogue.
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Shhhhhhhhh - I was hoping to use Delphi as a base and now it’s going to be more over-run and expensive!
3