A Clam Pizza Worth Waiting For

May 13, 2019 · 54 comments
azita (iran)
Wwwwwwoooooo Pizza What is your idea about making pizza in different brand or Microwave? What is your idea about bosch brand. I am Iranian and I buy from a site in 20bekhar and It has different models here that is avaible in iran. I will be happy to hear your idea to select the best model to make excellent pizzas there.
M (CT)
I've always favored Zupardi's over Frank Pepe's, Modern or Sally's. I'm apprehensive that the New York Times finally "discovered" it because I might no longer find parking and might have to wait in line to get a seat.
James A (Somerville NJ)
Love clam pizza! Wish I could try these versions but I recommend the Clam Pizza recipe in the NYT Cooking archives https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1018543-clam-chowder-pizza?searchResultPosition=5
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
Following the earlier discussion and helpful advice of several readers, below, I finally had the best pizza ever -- with shrimp. My wife, as the Mistress of our kitchen, followed the recipe of "Shrimp Scampi Pizza" from the site theblondcook.com. the crux of a good shrimp pizza is to pre-bake the crust 4 min at 450 F. In pizza making, I am relegated to placing the individual ingredients either in the sectors of the circle or spreading them evenly over the whole surface. Some self-appointed "arbiteraster" of table manners wrote that one does not pre cut food into pieces, but cuts off piece by piece, placed in the mouth. With a hot pizza, taken with a fork and knife, it is difficult to estimate its cooling rate. I cut a hot wedge in smaller pieces, so that they would cool off and not burn the mouth when one is taken after another.
john krueger (louisville)
.....you can have your clam pie, I'll take the shrimp and crab pizza from Gino's in Houma, Louisiana
Kristin Urbinati (Chapel Hill)
Born and raised in West Haven, and was weaned on Zuppardis. Never had their clam pie as a kid, but many many plain and cheese slices, which was the foundation for my ongoing love affair with pizza today. I concur that this small family owned, off the beaten path joint compared to the more lauded New Haven establishments is a diamond in the rough. I am filled with pride!
Apostate (All Around)
Damn you Pete Wells. Why do you have to spill all the secrets? Next thing you will find the same fools who stand in line at Pepe's showing up in West Haven.
Alex (Connecticut)
OK, I am a fourth generation Pepe's goer, even though I lived in West Haven for the first few years of my life. We did Zuppardi's, but not nearly like we did Pepe's. My wife and I went to Zup's for the first time since I was 8 or 9, so 40 plus years ago. I absolutely remember eating it from that first bite. It was good. It wasn't Pepe's good though. And Zup's clam pie? The char from Pepe's ovens is the key, Pete! You just gotta tell Jennifer (Frank's granddaughter) not too much char, and it comes out 'perfetto' each and every time.
KeepCalmCarryOn (Fairfield)
Had the medium clam from Zuppardi’s tonight as take out. Asked for lite moz & more pecorino. This is one of those pies that typically doesn’t make it intact to the dining table. Instead greedy hands often find there way inside the box during the journey home. The escarole & beans pie & the ‘special’ with mushrooms & their home made fennel sausage are delicious too. Worth the detour off of the thru way. Fresh shucked Little necks by the doz or half are an excellent value.
Arthur Mullen (Guilford, CT)
Great writing Pete Wells! Now i'm hungry.
Heather Mursko Briggsk (MS Gulf Coast)
I grew up in West Haven and Zuppardi’s Apizza was the best - with family, on dates, after high school sports games. Friends even brought me one when they flew to Miami Beach for a visit. Living in CA, Seattle, FL and now MS, I’ve never found an Apizza as good as the ones at Zuppardi’s or Pepe’s. My grandson was recently accepted at Yale and I envisioned trips home to visit him in New Haven as often as possible. He made two trips to the Yale campus and was given handouts on what to do and where to eat in the surrounding area. The top page listed restaurants and Pepe’s was the first one mentioned!! No other campuses he visited gave out info of where and what to eat. Only in New Haven! He chose another University so I won’t be eating the best pizza ever made after all.
LT (Tokyo)
You lost me at "clam."
Paul (Brooklyn)
@LT-Good one........putting clams on pizza should be outlawed in 13 states plus the District of Columbia but that's what Pete gets paid for.
M (CT)
@Paul Don't knock it until you try it. My husband had been extolling the virtues of whole clam pie since before we were married. When we moved back to his home state of Connecticut, the first thing he did was take us to Zuppardi's. Now I know what was talking about.
j24 (CT)
Zuppardi's is good, it's not Pepe's however, particularly when you're talking white clam. Actually, Sally's and BAR are better than Zuppardi's. Here's the really deal: 1. Pepe's 2. Sally's 3. BAR 4. Modern 5. Zuppardi's. That's no knock. Being 5th in the top 100 in the entire world ain't Meza Metz!
Stephen (Ansonia, CT)
@j24 Woah woah woah, Modern is way better than Bar and sallys has gone down hill..
Tom Benghauser (Denver Home for The Bewildered)
Q. What did one clam on the pie say to another clam on the pie? A. I think we just got shucked.
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
@Tom Benghauser, What kind of photos do clams take? Shellfies.
kjterz (tampa,fl)
how do you mention New Haven...without mentioning Sally's ...of course no one make a better clam pie...………...
Famdoc (New York)
Love this pie.
David Tagliaferri (Basel, Switzerland)
So, can you just put fresh shucked clams on a pizza, or do you have to cook the first?
Paul (Brooklyn)
Keep it simple Pete, pizza with red sauce, hold all the rest plus the calories and stomach upset.
The year of GOP ethic cleansing-2020 (Tri-state suburbs)
Okay, we are a multigenerational Pepe's clam pizza family. We especially prize the thin crust that gets slightly charred. This article inspired me to check out Zuppardi's website and maybe place an order. At the bottom of the page, there's a parade of pizza with crust that appears rather thick, almost (gasp) deep dish style. Can someone tell me if that is in fact the case?
David Jacobson (Vermont)
There’s no thick crust pizza at Zuppardis
Alex (Connecticut)
@The year of GOP ethic cleansing-2020 No, there is no true thick crust at Zuppardi's, when compared to anywhere outside New Haven. But it isn't Pepe's thin.
GF (ABQ)
Having heard about New Haven style pizza for many years, last summer, my wife and I drove up to New Haven see what made the pizza so special, and included a visit to the Yale Art Museum. We were blown away by the clam pizza at Pepe's. Had it two days in a row. Next time we'll make a stop on the way at Zuppardi's, but it's hard to imagine it being significantly better that at Pepe's. It's the fresh not canned clams that make it special. And, for us, usually pizza needs to have a red sauce base. But, if these clam pizzas were always available where we are, we might never have a red sauce pizza again.
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
Trapped in New Haven for most of a century? In the 1980s and 1990s I regularly indulged in the best clam and garlic pizza in the whole, dang world, at a place in the Marina District of San Francisco. I know, I know...no one outside of NYC and surrounding regions can make a truly great pizza. But I’m telling you, that SF pie was pure heaven.
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
...although I do admit that the clams were not freshly shucked.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ Passion for Peaches Left Coast Ah, here come important ex post facto revelations ...
Randy (SF NM)
@Passion for Peaches San Francisco has GREAT pizza! Love Delfina's pies and Gialina's in Glen Park, but I used to get clam pizzas in San Francisco from Marcello's on Castro and Blondie's on Powell.
sarah p (ny)
I was so happy to read this mention of Zuppardis and their transcendental clam pizza. Pepes, Modern, Sallys have nothing on this place. Having lived in Brooklyn and Manhattan-nothing comes close there either. I've been known to call in an order from a traffic jam on 95. And I eat the leftovers for breakfast.
gotham_gal (Manhattan)
@sarah p A meal at Zuppardi's quickly vanquished all memories of the 3+ hours it took to get there from NYC on a Friday night. Next time we're following your lead and calling from the parking lot that is 95.
MMM (Washington, DC)
@sarah p "transcendent" ?
sarah p (ny)
@gotham_gal happy to suggest. Buon Appetito!
Thomas (Branford,Fl)
I looked at the photo and wondered what is the 'sauce' . Cheese ? A kind of reduced clam chowder slathered on the dough ? Either way, it has to be better than pineapple.
JammieGirl (CT)
@Thomas Garlicky olive oil.
Emily R (Boston)
@Thomas There is no sauce!
Thump Trump (NJ)
No cheese...think linguine with clam sauce and some chewy, crusty Italian bread. You could put some grouper or stone crab on soggy dough where you are.
nina9153 (New Haven, Conn.)
I've been singing their praises for years now. Still, when out-of-towners come here for pizza, they insist on Pepe's or Modern. I have even had their pizzas shipped to Kansas and Maine for holiday and wedding gifts. That clam pizza is worth every cent although the plain is perfection, too.
Stu (CT)
The day that I pay $32.45 for a medium pizza will be the day they take me away to the state home for the terminally bewildered.
stan continople (brooklyn)
@Stu For clams, I agree; at least if they were oysters, you might find a pearl.
Bill (New York, NY)
@Stu. Having grown up one town over from West Haven and having eaten at Zuppardi’s, I say to you, good, stay away...one less person I have to wait behind in line when I get to Zuppardi’s for a clam pie that is the best I've ever eaten. ;)
Jerimiah Johnson (Mountains)
@Bill Price a pack of cigarettes and maybe he realizes $32 for a freshly shucked clam pizza is a bargain.
Hmmm (New Haven)
Great! Now the word is out! Not. Lol
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
At least I learn of something off the pedestrian beaten path of pizzas: a pizza with clams! Short of going to Connecticut, I must look for it locally, in hope that the clams will not be too old. But it is not for home, because my wife is allergic to clams. I wonder, how would it be a pizza with lobster meat?
Suzanne Fass (Upper Upper Manhattan)
@Tuvw Xyz Pizza with lobster meat could be done, but it's iffy. Since the heat of the oven is so great, the meat would have to go on raw, like the clams here. But it's difficult to remove uncooked lobster from its shell. So you might have to use parcooked lobster and risk overcooking it during baking. Also, lobster has a different flavor profile from clams, much sweeter and less briny. It might be difficult to find a compatible cheese. Mozzarella (especially fresh mozz) could be too bland; pecorino (the cheese used with clams at Frank Pepe, resulting in a salt bomb, albeit an otherwise delicious one) might overpower delicate, sweet lobster. Likewise, only the slightest layer of very simple tomato sauce would work, if you demanded sauce. A little olive oil, okay. Herbs, fine. Garlic, alas no. So you might end up with crust (arguably the most important element anyway) topped with dry, overcooked lobster, coated but unaided by the oil. Period. Not much of a pizza, in my book.
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
@Tuvw Xyz, I can’t imagine that. But you could approximate this with shrimp, I think, adding them during the last few minutes of oven time, having first tossed them in good olive oil flavored with crushed garlic and salt (and maybe a little lemon juice or lemon zest?). The thing with shrimp is, first, they need to be just cooked through. Second, you don’t want any scorch on them, as that ruins the taste of the entire shrimp. So toss them on the pizza in the last couple minutes and don’t get them too close to the heat element if you are using the top shelf in your oven.
Mac (Boston, Ma)
@Tuvw Xyz. I've been playing around with lobster and shrimp in a TurboChef Pizza oven. The shrimp works great as cook time can match the time for the dough to cook. Lobster gets over powered by other flavors but using the right type of meat (claw vs tail) and what you are looking for as a flavor profile for instance a lobster bisque flavored pizza, it can work. But it is hard to be consistent with this. Its all fun though!
Thomas Uhlan (West Haven Ct)
I’ve been a regular at Zupps for over 50 yrs. Hundreds of birthdays, football parties and other family celebrations were not complete without a couple of pies. I’m thrilled that they’re getting the recognition they deserve but apprehensive that the waits on Friday night just got an hour longer.
South Of Albany (Not Indiana)
New Haven, West Haven...lets just acknowledge where the real pies are thrown
Joyce S. (NJ)
$32.45 for a medium pizza? What is wrong with this picture?
Joe (Sausalito)
@Joyce S. Steep, but freshly shucked clams and not canned.
Steve (Saratoga Springs)
@Joyce S. if you have to ask you will never understand
Hmmm (New Haven)
@Joyce S. Fresh shucked and a lot of them.