A New Museum Explores 2,000 Years of Jewish Life in Italy

Apr 24, 2019 · 43 comments
Frank Jay (Palm Springs, CA.)
Fascinating, enlightening. If only "other" haters READ more rather than watch TV! We aren't all "good people." Jews of ancient times had leaders. Their civilization was marked by scholarship and traditional values. WE seem to have none; led by no one with moral political authority.
A.L. Hern (Los Angeles, CA)
“Museo Nazionale dell’Ebraismo Italiano e della Shoah.” I should think that Shoah is, in Italian, phonetically spelled Scioa.
antonio (milan)
@A.L. Hern u are right
Beth Cox (Oregon, Wisconsin)
Thank you for this article, which for me is very timely. I am in Bologna for this week and will take the train to see the museum.
RW (Madison WI)
While visiting Rome in 1984 with my Jewish aunt, we noticed a small graffito in Hebrew on the inside of the Arch of Titus. She translated it for me: Am Yisrqel Chai; the people of Israel live forever.
Judith Testa (Illinois)
@RW I remember seeing that as well! Since I can't read Hebrew, I've always wondered what it said, and now I know. In June I'm presenting a talk at the Italian Cultural institute in Chicago, about Rome's triumphal arches, and I will certainly include this detail.
A.L. Hern (Los Angeles, CA)
“After passing a replica of the Arch of Titus, commemorating Rome’s victory over Jerusalem, and depicting soldiers carrying the seven-branched menorah...” Not just a Roman victory, but the destruction of the Judean fortress of Masada, enslavement of the Jews and the First Disapora at Roman hands, as ordered by the Emperor Titus. It bears mentioning that Titus’s predecessor as Emperor, his father, Vespasian, a former general and first commoner to rise to the imperial throne, was well disposed toward Jews, and counted a number of them among his friends. In the contrast between father and son lies a lesson as to the dangers of hereditary succession and the easy availability of power without proper constitutional and societal vetting of its leaders.
Charlotte Cox (Portland OR)
I'm glad to see the online article has corrected the error in the name Este that I found it in my printed copy of today's paper.
Janel Carino (Bozeman MT)
Another gripping book (a page-turner!) about the last 23 months of WWII for Jews in Italy is Mark Sullivan’s Beneath A Scarlet Sky, in which he traces (novelistically) the history of Pino Lella, a real but unknown Jewish hero.
Chesapeake (Chevy Chase, MD)
A wonderful book entitled 'It Happened in Italy" is a true account of how Italians saved the lives of many Italian Jews during the Holocaust. In fact, the murder of Italian Jews would have been far fewer if unconditional surrender was not imposed on Italy by Churchill. The consequence of what followed was the brutal Nazi occupation of the Italian peninsula, and deportation of Italian Jews late in the war ultimately to their deaths. As an Italian-American who has spent much time learning about Italian Jewry, this is a welcome article about Italy, immigrants, and religious minorities in a contemporary world that seems to be reversing course in the progress of our shared and fragile humanity. Thank you!
Anthony (Chicago)
@Chesapeake That is a good book that speaks well of the relationships between all Italians during the turbulence of that time. Now, I will try to go with my wife to Ferrara to see this museum and get the feel of life in Ferrara toay and yesterday
Ellen Harmon (Alexandria, VA)
Just discovered I probably have Italian Jewish roots so this article is timely for me.
Rizzo (Central PA)
An old friend of mine wrote a book of his childhood that details how his mother hid Jews in their home during WWII. Suffer the Children – Growing Up in Italy during Word War II Paperback – September 17, 2008
JCGMD (Atlanta)
One of the reasons why Jews in Italy fared well during the holocaust, was simply Italians have generally viewed Jews as fellow Italians. An attack on a Jewish neighbor was an attack on themselves.
A.L. Hern (Los Angeles, CA)
@JCGMD There’s also the matter of Mussolini’s not being particularly anti-Semitic, at least for a Fascist and Catholic. Compared to Germany’s, his regime’s racial laws were enacted late, and only after il Duce realized that, though Fascist Italy preceded German Fascism by more than a decade, he had become the junior partner in the Axis alliance and that Hitler was setting the agenda.
Jay Amberg (Neptune, N.J.)
Every time I've walked under the Arch of Titus in Rome I get a chill no matter the season.
Riffkid (Oakland CA)
Great article. Coincidentally, I just watched (Netflix DVD) "My Italian Secret: The Forgotten Heroes" (2015), documentary about the extraordinary efforts Italians went to, to hide Jews from the Fascists and Nazis. Included in the effort was famous cycling champ Gino Bartali who shuttled forged identity papers in the tube of his bike frame.
Dan (Laguna Hills)
At a time when anti-semitism is rearing it ugly visage even among the so-called intelligentsia, thank you for a well-written and uplifting article. I found commentary about the sanctity of Jewish grave sites informative, especially since the Jewish cemetery in my father's native Prague has been "cleaned up" beyond recognition. A blessing to all.
CA (Delhi)
According to a research study by Harvard, the biases built centuries back become almost genetic and govern people's behavior till date. I wonder even if we erase who we are, how much these biases will continue playing the role in suffocating well-being and progress. This makes me wonder whether it is a good idea to encourage the policy of suppressing the racial information.
papajoe (Rome)
I have been there..(I am an American living in Rome)....it is a very interesting place and the cemetery is an eye opener because of its beauty. Additionally, I discovered the burial plots of an American family (that I knew peripherally from the US) and was astonished to see that they were Jewish and from the region. The elders in the family are buried there after having moved to the US before the wars. Incredibly interesting. Of course, one can question why such an outstanding project is in Ferrara which of course, is out of the way. (The day I was there...middle of March--I was the ONLY person in the Museum other than the guards and employees.) Unfortunate because it is definitely worth seeing--I have seen all the Jewish museums in Europe--this is among the best and likely to get better, but one does have to question the location because so many people wont get there.
Jizell Albright (95472, USA)
Ferrara is a 1/2 hour train ride from Bologne. Train service is excellent and inexpensive.
Ellen Harmon (Alexandria, VA)
This article will spur many a field trip, I do believe!
Ldemelis (Menlo Park, CA)
@papajoe - Ferrara is an hour by train from Venice, 2 hours from Milan. It is not really hard to get there, given Italy’s train network. Far too many American tourists, though, confine themselves to visiting Venice, Florence and Rome, which is unfortunate. Those cities are perpetually overcrowded with tourists as a result. It’s not a bad idea to put an important new museum somewhere else.
Lawrence Robbin (Portland, Oregon)
Congratulations for a well written piece. The quote about turning a former dark prison into a place of light and openness spoke to me. The story of the Jews in Italy is enlightening, heart-breaking, and heart-opening. The photographs by Susan Wright are clear vivid visuals statements. Could not be better.
Bob (Pennsylvania)
I'm surprised that they did not color the piece from the Titus Arch. It's been known for some time that it was gilded and painted (traces of pigments have been detected, even after 2,000 years). A properly colored one side by side with the uncolored replica would be interesting.
Tricia (Illinois)
@Bob, yes, it would be interesting to see what the sculpture looked like originally, but since they have replicated the current, damaged sculpture, not the original, don't you think the color would be inappropriate?
Roni (Dutchess County)
You can't help but notice the difference Italians made during the Holocaust as mentioned in this article. Over 44,000 Jews lived in Italy and over 7,000 perished. Which means most were saved. The Italian people deserve much thanks! This article on the museum is another wonderful piece adding to history a story not known well. Well done.
PghMike4 (Pittsburgh, PA)
@Roni And IIRC, virtually every Jew who was killed in the Holocaust in Italy was killed after Mussolini was deposed and Germany invaded and occupied Italy.
Ignatius J. Reilly (N.C.)
Many people of Italian descent (including myself - my screen name is a nome de plume) find 2-5 percent Jewsh DNA when doing the online DNA tests that are all the rage now. The tests are correct, as the article states, many Jews came to Italy, especially Sicily, as slaves. Sicily was "the bread basket of Rome" and Jews were slaves in the fields and in the industry overall. It is why many italian Jews later wbecame flour merchants bakers, pastry shops and many Italian surnames are flour related (Farina). Like Spain there is a history of "Coversos" , Jews that were forced to convert to Catholicism and assimilate or move, after the "Edict Of Sicily of 1492" when lower Italy/Sicily was well under the rule of the Spanish Empire. Many families forgot their past but retained the names and customs/Jewish occupations (fabric/dyeing, merchants etc.). Many spread to other countries where their Italian names were translated into said countries languages (Oliviera to "Oliver" (as in John Oliver) or Palomba to "Dove" (as in Arthur Dove) in England for example. Notice the name "Cladia Aster" Aster meaning "Star" in Latin the Roman language. In Italian it is translated to "Stella" a very common Italian suname (like the painter Frank Stella who is very likely of Italian Jewish descent).
Mel (Dallas)
@Ignatius J. Reilly In English it the surname Stern.
PghMike4 (Pittsburgh, PA)
@Ignatius J. Reilly On the other side, I'm a half-Sephardic Jew whose family hailed mostly from Rhodes. But I just discovered that DNA tests claim I'm also 7% Italian.
MSL - NY (New York, NY)
@Mel - Stern is German for star.
SBloomfield (Boston, MA)
When you (the author) say "Old Testament" are you referring to the Christian Bible or the Hebrew Bible?
Luigi (Mexico City)
Where's the Simon of Trent exhibit?
A. Stanton (Dallas, TX)
I remember once going to a very learned rabbi and asking him what to do about the London grave of my grandfather that was falling into disrepair who had suffered grievously from the Nazis. He told me to do only as much as was needed to preserve it, “that place is holy.”
Cy (Texas)
"The Italian peninsula witnessed serial conquerors — Romans, Goths, Byzantines Longobards and Muslims — who are all gone." What does this mean? Last I noticed, the Romans at the very least were still in Italy.
George Jochnowitz (New York)
Italian Jews had their own dialects, which by now are mostly gone, In Ferrara and elsewhere in Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna, the Jewish dialects were quite different from the local dialects. http://jochnowitz.net/Essays/Judeo-Italian.html
BR (MA)
I wonder how often (if ever) people in these countries that discriminated so much against Jews ever think about what they lost by doing so. Spain had a Golden Age, but their country didn't flourish until long after the Spanish Inquisition (1492-1810) was over. Discrimination hurts all of us.
David Gregory (Sunbelt)
Point of Order: "the Inquisition and persecution by the Church" The Church properly refers to all the body of believers of Jesus Christ- not the Roman Catholic Church- which was established by the Roman Empire and persecuted Christians who did not fall in line as well. Not all Christians believe Catholic doctrine and that extends way back to before the Catholic Church was created by the Roman Empire. The phrase "the Inquisition and persecution by the Catholic Church" would be proper.
Robert Goodell (Baltimore.)
The strain of Christian anti semitism arguably began with the split between the Pauline and Petrine communities. Certainly it was clear in early, pre Nicene writings. The Jewish “stubbornness” to accept Yeshua of Nazareth as the Messiah has vexed Christians for two millennia. Luther was certainly anti Semitic. We only have the wonder that is the KJV because of a scholarly truce in England that allowed Jewish scholars to contribute.
Steve (aird country)
@David Gregory To say the Roman Catholic church was not created by the Roman empire misses a significant portion of church history. Constantine decriminalized Christianity in 313. At that time the church was a dispersed organization with each significant region or city having a patriarch. Church doctrine decisions were made by councils of patriarchs. Antioch, Constantinople, Alexandria and Rome, among others, had patriarchs or bishops. At the time the patriarch of Rome was just another patriarch. Decisions were made by consensus, sometimes with the emperor helping things along. The split between the Bishop of Rome and the rest of the Christian Church started when the Roman Church started making unilateral changes to doctrine, possibly to combat various doctrinal heresies such as Arianism. That set off a series of intra-church conflicts which resulted in a full split by 1054. None of which excuses the almost 2000 years of Catholic Church preaching Jew hate (also inherited by the Protestants.)
bigdoc (northwest)
@Robert Goodell The amount of terror and destruction committed by Protestants vastly outnumbers Catholics. Everyone always points to the Spaniards in the New World, but the Brits went to every corner of the world raping resources. The Brits got the Chinese addicted to heroine so they could sell it them. They raped the lands of: Australia, New Zealand, Canada, the U.S., the Middle East, India and Africa. The Dutch were some of the worst ravagers of any group (read Heart of Darkness) and the Germans, well they wrote the book on savagery. Of course, our precious American students only read about the Spaniards and Portuguese because they are Catholic. I will say that, in terms of Antisemitism, the Catholic Poles probably outdid every group imaginable. Most Italians I know have great respect for the Jews and yes, many do have Jewish blood, thanks to the diaspora and to migration even before the Romans. The Jewish section of Rome, albeit small, has the word "taste" in its name, and the food is yummy.
CarlenDay (Park Slope, Brooklyn)
This is fabulous to read - deeply appreciate the Times in-depth coverage.