I loved this article even if none of the selections described are vegetarian (and I am).
8
I'm going to make oeuf mayonnaise for lunch today!
7
Go to Barcelona, 3 course meal, wine or beer, desert, and huge portions of scrumptious food at
lunch for 15Euros or less.
12
Dining in Paris is such a wonderful experience and so much cheaper than New York and Philadelphia.
Just avoid the Michelin star type places or the corporate restaurants that depend on expense-account travelers and you'll be fine.
Food in a good restaurant generally costs less. Wine is just a small fraction of what it costs to drink in a restaurant here. There are no taxes tacked on to the bill and no 20% tip expected -- 5 or 10% is plenty.
So it's really not hard, especially if you walk away from the expensive touristy parts of Paris, to find a place where you can spend 100 or 120 Euro for excellent food, multiple courses and one or two bottles of wine. Or a lighter meal and a single bottle of wine for 60 to 80. In both cases you couldn't touch it for that price in the US.
6
Whew, what a relief to not see my favorite inexpensive restaurants in Paris mentioned in this column. My friends and traveling companions want to keep our special fine dining Parisian establishments a guarded secret.
35
@michael
Naughty, selfish, Michael!!... but I had the same thought...
13
@michael
Why the post? I'm puzzled.
29
Personally, my pick every time I'm in Paris is a tiny little Lao restaurant in the Asian quarter. Best food outside Laos and waay cheap!
16
@A. Daniele
Name or address?
16
These reviews sound interesting- but the quippy lead in, with its bias towards all new restaurants and broad-strokes insult of old restaurants as servers of "shoe leather" beef bourguignon, cast a pall on the piece.
24
I ate at Aux Bons Crus last fall. Reservations were easy, the atmosphere fantastic and the food wonderful. I had the veal head.
Also the service was friendly. The waiter dealt -without attitude or abruptness - our inability to utter other than basic French words. Why? I felt that the waiter could sense by our questions we were enthusiastic about the food and understood the French concept of dining. Don’t be pushy. Just settle in and enjoy. It’s a great place to dine.
Leave a tip as the others suggest. A few Euros is fine.
15
@Paul
Please don't bring American corruption to France. NO TIPPING ! servers are paid a normal wage here. Say thank you! Its not because the meal is cheap that servers are poorly paid. a 20 euro meal is a 20 euro meal, not 20 plus tax plus tip which in the USA equals 27 euros!
29
Mr. Lobrano should check out the article "The Cheapest Good Meal in All Paris" in the New York Times on April 27, 1975 to read about the original Julien (possibly in the same location as the current version). On the basis of the 1975 article I went to Julien and it had all of the promised rustic quality. Alas, the next year it had been transformed in response to the positive press, and was no longer affordable.
9
This is all wonderful. But the lines at these places will be insane in August. Too bad. Oh, and find the show Alice in Paris on Prime for some of the best Paris spots. A gem.
8
@Karin K Over 50% of Paris's restaurants are closed in August.. either 2 weeks or the entire month
15
I'll be staying on the left bank for only 1.5 days with a tight schedule of visiting museums so I will not have time to explore the right bank where all these amazing restaurants are. If anyone has recommendations on the left bank, that'd be much appreciated.
3
@Amanda Amanda, I'd suggest that wherever you find yourself around dinner time, just follow the crowds and the lights. Look for a small restaurant with lots of people. I was in Montparnasse in November and that's what I did. In five days of solo dining, I found many delicious restaurants, and had great conversations with fellow diners in my middling French. I think much of the experience is what you bring to it -- Parisians take food seriously, so feel secure about what's on the table and embrace the whole atmosphere. Bon app!
10
@Amanda try McDonalds for your timeframe.
9
Throughout Paris there are many restaurants serving lunch at around 15,25 euros, since that is the amount reimbursed by Government employers for expensed meals.
11
@pc When I started doing business in France in 1997, there were many restaurants which accepted Tickets de Déjeuner. These were prepaid, subsidized vouchers issued by the government (usually a national/local effort) to bolster the restaurant industry in various cities to make dining out affordable for office workers.
The origin of this practice appears to be efforts to do the same during World War II. In Allied countries, one did not need to present ration coupons in restaurants, but in Nazi-occupied Europe one did. If one ran out of ration coupons, there were "menus sans tickets" (usually vegan) in urban restaurants in France. "British restaurants," often works canteens, served whatever was fairly available.
Americans can learn quite a bit from this article, and New Yorkers are not all fabulously wealthy--but all deserve decent, affordable food--and NOT excrescent fast food.
5
i recommended a creperie in an early post.
i normally have two meals there during my stays which are usually 10-12 nights.
the remaining nights are normally spent having breakfast and dinner in my room.
i usually shop at local shops/supermarkets/boulangeries and toddle back to my room to enjoy what i've bought.
fresher, cheaper and delicious.
16
I believe the NY Times wrote about Restaurant Julien about 40 or 50 years ago when they were originally serving inexpensive meals. It would be interesting if you could pull up that article
21
@eddiec
New York Times: April 27, 1975
5
There is an undeniable New York Times effect on restaurants in Paris (I'm sure the same phenomenon exists in other cities given coverage by the Times travel section): shortly after publication of restaurant recommendations in these pages, the restaurants highlighted are overrun with Americans who have read those recommendations. I've experienced this (and been a co-conspirator) several times. If you add just a few Euros to the upper limit of a meal cost in this article, Paris is replete with great dining at a very reasonable cost. I have relied upon John Talbott, a retired American surgeon living in Paris, to identify chefs doing great things in their restaurants in that city. His blog provides detailed descriptions of meals he's had, the cost and noise level at those establishments and a very useful ability to search by arrondissement. His reviews are easy to locate via Google. In addition, thefork.com makes reservations easy to secure in advance of one's visit to Paris and offers discounts for diners using their portal. Many of Talbott's favorites can be booked through that site.
30
@Famdoc I agree with the dining options of Paris. I had great smashed avocado with egg on toast one morning at a table on the sidewalk; though the yellow jackets were a pain. :-). Sounds simple? Yes. Difference? Quality food, executed perfectly.
I am amazed by the food supply chain in France. Everyone should go to a street market and marvel at the freshness and variety of the offerings.
Thank you for the tip on the retired doctors blog!
9
Yum, I need to pop over on the Eurostar from London before the 'BIG B' occurs (:
11
Ah, foie gras mentioned at more than one of these restaurants. Nothing like force feeding a bird so its liver becomes rather fatty. Karma would suggest that those who participate should be force fed until their fatty liver leads to cirrhosis and an agonizing death from liver failure with hepatic encephalopathy.
28
@foodalchemist Exactly. Thank you for saying what I was only thinking. (I guess no one would appreciate a call to vegetarianism here, right??)
6
No.
14
Could someone please tell me how much of a tip is expected in Paris? We are generous tippers in US, 20-25%, but are very unsure of what is expected in France.
7
@Judy G Tips are not expected in France anywhere. The menu often says "service compris," which means "included."
If you want to leave a little bit if the service is very good, that's always appreciated. A euro or two but it's never required or expected.
24
I am an American living in France; I have traveled, lived and worked here for many years. I always leave a minimum of 10% tip, and often I leave more. The 15% service charge is not a tip and does not go to the waiter.
14
@Judy G Exactly. Thank you for saying what I was only thinking. (I guess no one would appreciate a call to vegetarianism here, right??)
2
Wow, caught this article this morning and we on a flight to Paris this evening. All lunch and dinner plans changed to cover as many of these restaurants as possible. Talk about great timing!
4
Great article, and the value available there now is kind of shocking. Buillon Racine in the 6th is one of my faves.
8
This is nice. In most of America, it’s so rare to see authentic cuisine since the vast majority of our food options are franchises.
9
I just tried the new Bouillon Chartier in Montparnasse a few weeks ago and it really was a nice experience, the food was great and the dining room is almost as beautiful as the one in the historical Chartier. So do not hesitate and try it if you are around Montparnasse.
7
I’m glad you had a good experience at Chartier. We had the exact opposite experience last week. Our meal was frankly terrible. We left thinking we had accidentally gone to the French version of Applebee’s.
@JP Benoni\\
I discovered Chartier on my first trip to Paris in 1967. It was THE perfect place to eat good food at affordable prices. Every time I went back to Paris my first meal was always there. I'm lucky enough to have eaten there 5 or 6 times and would go back there again if I were younger.
J'aime Chartier.
3
By the way, all these places, save for Bouillon Pigalle, are in hipster Eastern Paris, the heart of the natural wine scene.
5
I remember the Julien in the '70's. You could eat and drink for under 10 francs. A real "worker's" restaurant. Although I was never really crazy about the food quality there. Ambience superb
Then they turned it into the "Brasserie Julien"... super expensive (for me at the time... I was a busker). I couldn't afford to go back.
Best (still in the '70's) was the "sister restaurant" of the Chartier, Le Drouot. Not as Art Deco as others but Great atmosphere and great traditional French food at a reasonable price. There were always lots of single older guys (regulars) with blue double breasted jackets and berets. Waiters were incredible. I was a regular and the waiters would ask you to write out your own bill on the paper table cloth. I ate there 3 or 4 times a week for years.
It's gone and I still miss it.
8
@Paul McGovern
See the New York Times on April 27, 1975 on the original Julien.
3
i've been to paris 24 times in the past 38 years with 25 coming up in october.
if i want to spend 25 euros or so for a good dinner, i go to a great crepe restaurant called le josselin at 67 rue du montparnasse.
i get two crepes--one plain and one loaded and then a chantilly dessert which is exquisite.
it's across the street from metro station edgar quinet on line #6.
it's closed mondays and tuesdays.
cash only.
always busy but the wait isn't usually very long.
i first went there about 24 years ago when the owner's son of the hotel i was staying at in the 7th arr. took me. there are several other creperies on the street. i've tried 'em all and they were acceptable, but le josselin stood out.
i have no connection--direct or indirect--with the creperie.
11
@brupic
I just found a business card I picked up from le josselin and it says it's open tuesdays. not sure how old it is, but I was told it was closed Mondays and Tuesdays. the site says it's only closed on Mondays.
5
Great and helpful article. Who in the world doesn't want to dine well and affordably in Paris! Now, maybe an article on the most interesting and affordable multi-ethnic bistros around the city. Interesting young chefs are cooking in ways that broaden classic French cuisine and it would be fantastic to hear Alex Lobrano's take on some of the more interesting and affordable places he loves. If he is willing to share that info!
3
Check out all reviews and Paris food info on Parisbymouth.com. Also fab food tours. Don’t plan on dinner after one of their tours!
3
I rent an apt. in Paris every year for several weeks and have discovered a number of local, affordable and amazing local bistros over the years where you can dine beautifully -and authentically-without breaking the bank. SORZA on the Ile St. Louis is amazing-delicious three-course meals in a lovely setting. La Rotisserie on the Seine in the 5th is a great deal, as well (its pricier Big Brother across the Rue is Tour L'Argent). My French friends are forever introducing me to "real" places around town; the ones mentioned here are on my list for my upcoming visit in Novembre!
7
Thanks for this article and the photos. I love to cook at home, a lot, and this is inspiration for me. Maybe someday will get to France, but in the meantime, might as well cook like a Frenchwoman.
6
We just returned after two weeks in Paris and Lyon. We ate and drank really well at wonderful bistros for around 60% the price of a good meal in Chicago. The meat portions are smaller but beautifully sauced, bread free, unlimited and fresh and of course, the mark up on wine is nowhere near as much as in the US. For example, we paid a max of €28 for a mid range Côté du Rhône- one which I bought later at Nicolas(the wine chain) for 20. Back home, even a basic domestic wine like Decoy($20 for the blend) is marked up to $55 at a comparable bistro. Also, the ability to linger over a meal for many hours makes it more pleasurable- vacation bien sûr! My new dining plan in Chicago now is to only visit BYOBs- fortunately we still have a fair choice of them.
27
@Pb can you recommend a2-3 BYOBs in Chicago? We’re visiting in mid-June. Thanks!
Le Petit Villiers, metro Wagram. It’s been a while but I think it’s still there.
6
Yes, still there & still reasonable. If I come back to this area I suggest 2 bistros in Rue des Dames. One is Un Air de Famille & the other is next door and is called Provence. Metro station Villiers
4
@Michael Ate there, spring of 2017. Still good (if not exceptional) food and good value. Owner a Morgan fan.
2
I don't have the budget (nor interest) in dining at the pretentious temples of Haute Cuisine. My preference is always to eat in places like this whenever I go to Paris, small, family run and off the beaten path. I can't wait to book my ticket on the TGV!
13
We’ll be there in June, as long as we can find a table. This trend has been going on in Spain, Portugal and the south of France the past several years, and has now reached Paris, finally. In Spain, most of the countries top chefs have opened second and even a third restaurant with a fixed price menu so more people can experience and enjoy their highly rated cuisine. And in Madrid and elsewhere around the country, some have located these new restaurants in less expensive neighborhoods, which will eventually change those neighborhoods, mostly for the better.
7
Great suggestions... don't forget that when you dine in France, sales tax and service are included. Yes, you should always leave a coin (2 Euros or similar) at the table when you leave, but that's it. I'm visiting the Los Angeles area at the moment and tacking on more than 10% sales tax plus at least 15% service (for often mediocre - at best - service), makes eating anywhere expensive.
For people who wondered about "entree" -- "entree" in France is the starter. Don't confuse with American entree. Although here, writers are talking about main course prices ("plat" in French).
And, don't want to quibble too much, but when Chartier and co were taking over by corporate entities, everything was updated and made more efficient (and, some might argue, better), but food definitely become more "corporate". You can taste the difference. The Brasserie chain, Flo, was the classic example. After the corporate takeoever, Paris' famous brasseries lost their unique identities (they all started to resemble each other) and the food really changed. All things considered, when I suggest restaurants to friends traveling to France, I'll propose the family-run, as opposed to the corporate-owned. More hit or miss, yes, but usually more special.
71
@cbadgley FYI the sales tax in LA is about 7% and the appropriate tip when dining in America is 20% for good service. Unlike the US, in France and other European countries the servers are paid a livable wage and do not expect much of an additional gratuity.
13
When I was in Paris, I was advised by people and books to leave no tips. We did not do so and did not receive lesser service nor dirty looks. In fact, I was pleasantly surprised by how kind Parisians were but then I did try to speak my very rudimentary French. I had heard that some wait staff would prefer no tips as it then makes the restaurant industry consider paying them a lower salary, with the argument they can rely on tips (e.g. like here in the US).
10
@CRollins, the sales tax rate in Los Angeles County is currently 9.5% or higher, depending on local jurisdiction.
1
I am very perplexed as to how are the prices so cheap ?
3
@Student
Chefs/restaurant owners, shop for local fresh produce, meat and fish daily at the market, most directly from the producers (farm/sea to table). They are also able to purchase wild game caught during the season directly from licensed hunters, something that doesn't happen in the USA. It helps keep the prices down. And the bread is so much better than anything you can find at home.
17
@Student
Restaurants in France use a lot of frozen food. In fact,
a couple of years ago the govt. wanted to pass a law
requiring that this be stated on the menu, but after
vigorous opposition by restauranteurs the idea was quietly dropped.
6
@Student. A lot of restaurants in Paris serve pre-prepared food made in central kitchens. The ones who make their own food often state it on their menus; the law that would have required the re-heaters to say so was quashed and replaced by a law allowing to say you make your own food; this also goes for bakeries. Its a bummer. You can always ask to look in the kitchen.
2
My husband and I lived in the southwest of France in the early 1960’s. It was. Long drive to everyplace, and we always stopped at a “Routiers” if wr could when we were on the road.
For 5 francs ($1.00) you were served abounteous fivecourse meal. A liter of vin ordinaire was one franc.
14
Just had the fortune of going to Buffet last week! We were there for dinner, so missed out on le formule (prix fixe menu), but the food was creative and delicious and the venue charmingly low-key.
The French lunchtime "le formule," which we enjoyed at other places, is such a great way to enjoy food at a reasonable price, and I assume it also makes things easier for the restauranteur by allowing them to produce greater quantities of a few dishes. The Spain "menu del dia" is the same idea and even more comprehensive with wine typically included.
Would that we could reach this height of civilization in this country.
41
@Lydia Perhaps Mr. Trump will show us the way.
4
@Lydia I have long held the hope that when things here get bad enough, we would react by bouncing back to a level of culture, respect & civilization that we could be proud of. Somehow when I think we've hit rock bottom we still seem to sink lower, but hope springs eternal. In the meantime flights to Paris have been getting cheaper this year.
4
When visiting for the first time, walking without any planned destination opens for unexpected discoveries. Paris is no exception.
Recommendations help, along with online searches offering discounts like La Fourchette, but using basic senses usually bring even more satisfaction. And you will make discoveries, with the discretionary power to share or not.
9
@Robert B. you are so right. on my first (and sadly, so far only) trip to paris, during a wander near the Place Vosges, we came across a small cafe, where i had one of the best meals i had the whole time in paris ... it was a tiny little place and we arrived just before actual afternoon meal time. i had a fabulous fresh vegetable risotto, salad, wine and dessert, i'm sure was maybe 20 or 25 euro. no one rushed us... no one looked askance at us or our poor french. years later when a good friend was going to paris, i gave him the business card and told him he *had* to eat there. alas, time changes everything, and my lovely paris cafe had become a vietnames/thai restaurant. still, i hold that as one of my favorite gastronomic memories.
2
For 20 Euros - in New York City you might get 1 glass of vin and bread in a French Bistro restaurant.... or?
4
@Sherlock Lab, You mean in Manhattan and downtown Brooklyn.
3
@carol goldstein - do not be to sure a good glass of wine is much cheaper in other parts than Manhattan and downtown Brooklyn. This is the next big problem dinning out in NYC.... with tax and tip most places you pay is between 15- 20$ for a glass of decent wine? So not much money left - based on 20 Euro dinner Paris - to have any food, besides the free bread and butter..... ????
4
@Sherlock Lab, I know a place with very good Italian food in Corona, Queens, where you can get a carafe of nice Chianti or several other wines for $20, about $25 with tax and tip. By the glass it is $6 or $7, so easily less than $10 after tax and tip. Our local very good Argentine, Chinese and Japanese restaurants have similar wine or sake prices.
1
If only restaurants here could match the wonderful and consumer friendly meals offered in the city of light. Currently you have to mortgage your house to enjoy a meal as described in this article in New York, Washington or San Francisco. A culinary experience at this price would be a welcome gift, but alas it won't happen here.
40
Everyone who goes to Paris on a budget is in your debt, my friend. Merci.
88
These restaurants looks more cheaper and more classier than restaurants which located in New York
8
Where are all the bistros? I lived in New York City from 1962 through 1975 and up until the '80s and '90s, bistros abounded and all at reasonable prices. Now, if you see "bistro" in the name of an establishment, you can be sure it'll cost you plenty. The best bistro I know of is in Durham, NC, but it's a bit of a trek!
11
Which one in Durham? Not a trek for me!
@Nicole Vin Rouge?...just off Ninth Street?
1
Rue Cler? I loved that place when I lived in Durham.
Ah, I see Parisians are now eating as well and as cheaply as Greeks.
7
I read this article with interest. Having gone to Bouillon Chartier, I intend to try one or two of these establishments when my wife and I spend a month in Paris next year. I wish the author had listed the price for a typical main course as opposed to an appetizer. But wait, could he have intended "entree" in a French restaurant to mean main course? The person who brought the French term "entrée" into the American language to designate a main course should be pilloried. (He or she is probably no longer around to answer for the crime.) Certainly entrée relates to an entry. Even the British, who for decades presided over a gastronomic backwater, did not fall into this trap and use the terms "starter" and "main". I call upon the New York Times editorial board to prohibit the use of the term "entree" when referring to the main course. You will save some unwitting readers confusion when visiting a French restaurant for the first time. You will also help to abolish a quintessential misnomer.
62
I clearly should have eaten lunch before I read this article.
33
Same here!
2
Wow, I want to get on a flight to Paris right now! These meals sound truly wonderful. If I could get to Paris now I would try all of these restaurants. And the thought of them being inexpensive makes me very happy. Reminds me of Paris years ago. Such fond memories.
28
Air France has a sale for $440-500 in August non stop to Paris from most major cities in the US
3
Many restaurants will be closed in August for their « fermeture annuelle. »
2
You have now made it impossible to enter any of these places for many years.
Everywhere I ate in Paris on my last trip had sensationally good food compared to anything I've had in NY or Boston (where I live) in years. And all of it was reasonably priced. I did not go to Temples of Gastronomy however.
55
Dined at Boullion Pigalle two years ago with friends, a French couple, who were equally surprised by the price to quality ratio. If living in Paris again, would definitely become a regular at one of these. Some of the "cantines" are also great value.
13
I travel to Paris twice a year from San Francisco. In both places
favorable reviews of restaurants I frequent have led to over-
crowding.
39
@TA Morrison C'est la vie!.
3
Are there comparable restaurants like this in New York City?
2
@Molly, Ligaya Mishan regularly reviews good to excellent NYC restaurants that I would consider comparable for the NYT. The comparabilty comes from ethnic authenticity, food quality, location and price point. The food is usually that of a specific ethnic group outside of the standard American and western European genres and that may or may not be echoed in the decor. Of course the places are chosen to be reviewed because they serve some very tasty food. As to location, which is surely a key to pulling it all of at a truly reasonable price point, in either case you will be eating somewhere outside of the central business and mansion districts of the city. An example is that we have some terrific Chinese, Argentine, Thai, Indian, Mexican, Romanian, etc restaurants in or near my Elmhurst neighborhood. There is also a Shake Shack in the nearby mall where one can eat well - although perhaps not overly healthily - for under $20.
4
My experience with NYC is like that of Paris and really any big city: there is good food to be had at all price points if one knows where to look. It's always a bit strange to me when people comment that a specific city has expensive food in general. Exceptions would be places like Alaska where much produce has to be shipped, esp. in winter.
4
Great article. Aux Bons Crus is a very excellent choice also. One of the BEST things happening also is you can try to ask for a petit portion, or a smaller portion. Sometimes they are curious and I then explain that I have had gastric intervention, stomach surgery in french, for diabetes. They do understand this. And they are curious. You must tell them they food was very good when you send back food. They are then very curious. So I talk about diabetes and weight. I speak very very poor french. But they understand, I think. If anyone knows exactly what words to use, would you please tell me!! These newer restaurtants will try to accomodate you. You have added more to my list to try.
6
@PerAxel
You could explain simply, by saying “j’ai une condition médicale pour laquelle les plats copieux sont interdits; serait-il possible de commander des demi portions?"
11
Paris is indeed a moveable feast, with those restos placing a classic French cuisine at the heart of the menu the ones to which I return faithfully and eagerly. Trends and kooky menus never last in Paris, thankfully. Bon appétit!
7
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
Reviews of restaurants such as these are far more meaningful than those serving $80 appetizers. These are the kind of restaurants that I am willing to support. To me, they exemplify what good dining with good friends is all about.
50
Eating inexpensive multi-course meals, slowly over a period of hours, never feeling rushed by the waiter to give up the table, is such a wonderful experience when travelling in France (and many other Western European nations). I think often of those evenings when I am being pestered by American waiters to order something else or pay before I've had my last bite.
118
@Shaun - I could not agree more!
12
@Shaun I remember arriving at a hotel in Normandy and apologizing for being late for diner, which I had booked along with the room. It was a one star Michelin restaurant. The gracious person at reception calmly assured me that there was no reason to apologize because "when you book a table you book it for the entire evening." When I worked at a restaurant in New York City when I was a student, we hoped to turn a table minimum of two and possibly three times. This was at a hotel on Central Park South. I have to wonder if there are regulations on rent in France that allow restaurants to be more patient with their diners. It is wonderful to be able to take your time over a good meal.
41
@Shaun So so true. The dining experience is a shame in the United States. Recently I was in New Orleans for a bachelor party and at dinner we spent nearly $1,000. We had the bill and were finishing our drinks when the waitress had the gall to say they had another reservation that needed our table. Dining, like everything else in the US, is just a commodity.
4