Italian Alpine Spas, Where Sports Are an Afterthought

PRICING? How can an extensive piece in NYTimes Travel not mention approximate pricing, which until recently has been customary?

Just reading this article and viewing the mountains from the chalets took stress away.... Thanks!

We've been to Alpi di Suisi many times, in both Winter and Summer. It is gorgeous, environmentally protected, and is wonderful for the simplest of activities such as walking or gazing at the sky, as well as more strenuous hiking and skiing. Staying there does not require an expensive hotel-spa experience, because there are numerous small hotels and B & B's, which are spotlessly clean, friendly, offer good food, and won't break the bank. I agree with the readers who would like to see some information on pricing, such as with the Times "36 Hours in..." series. Looking at web sites means that I might actually consider staying in one of these places. Most of us are reading the article simply to dream.

Lovely piece, about a spectacular region and the European bathing and wellness tradition that so is still so little-understood by Americans. I first visited this region as a child in the 80's staying at small affordable hotels (ok, the exchange was much better at the time) that also included wellness areas - some textile-free, which at the time was something new for our east coast family. I remember also visiting the public baths in Merano, a far cry the YMCA, where I learned the invigorating powers and circulatory benefits of going from hot sauna to ice cold water, something I try to mimic at home in Maine. Last summer, I revisited our old haunts, but also had the opportunity to stay at some of the properties mentioned in this article. We hiked point-to-point staying at a mix of mountain rifugios, small inns and luxury hotels for balance; the entire trip was expertly organized by www.epiceurope.com and surprisingly reasonable in price if you are comparing to similar spa & wellness experiences in the USA. Maybe other commenters should have a long soak in a thermal bath, and reach a state of Zen where they don't feel compelled to negatively comment on this beautiful piece.

The Dolomites are magnificent mountains. It is indeed a place to unwind and enjoy nature. We go there to walk and get away from it all. Although there are many 4 and 5 star hotels that offer luxury and extensive spas, this area has an abundance of agritourismo establishments that are very affordable. There are many networks of walking trails in the winter, a time of year we especially like to be there. Even the high class hotels offer so much more quality at affordable prices than back in the states. The food is superb, the scenery beautiful....it is truly a paradise.

South Tyrol is indeed a paradise. We go at least once every year. There are plenty of cold plunge pools in the Therme Park in Merano. I can’t bear them but my daughter doesn’t seem to feel the cold. We’ve given up flying and now do the round trip London - Merano by train. SAN Luis is expensive but there are cheaper options. This summer we are spending part of our trip in a self catering apartment near Brixen. I love Vigilius we used to stay there until our daughter was born. I don’t think it needs a refresh personally. As others have said the alpine walks are free. Public transport is excellent and we’ve never hired a car.

As an American living in this part of the world, and a frequent visitor to South Tyrol, this article rubs me the wrong way for several reasons, two of which I give below. First, there are so many inexpensive charming and creative places accessible to anyone. Breaking the bank is not required to stay and nature experiences are free of charge. Second, the spas do look gorgeous and no doubt would be enjoyable, but is this man made luxury necessary? Take a walk in the forest, put your feet in the lake or stream and enjoy the view. A little bit of research can easily be done over the internet. Most local/regional tourist authorities have websites, often in English, and the answers to so many questions can be found therein.

That's a very far away place to travel to for a spartan cabin and a nice view that you could get in Colorado, Utah, and other states. So, you've taken your nature walk and gone into the pool and sauna, and now it's noon. There's no internet connection. What do you do for the rest of the day and week?

I live in this region and it's indeed spectacular, as others have mentioned. I am also a cyclist and there are few more stunning settings than spending a day cycling up and down and around these mountains, albeit in the summertime.

---Uh...What a brutally Spartan assignment researching this article must have been. It's a wonder Ms. Rysman survived the ordeal.

W.G.Sebald in his novel Vertigo writes about this part of the world. It is quite a different feel from the luxury spa impression. Maybe it is a book to read while relaxing at the spa?

I have skiied in nearby Ortisei, charming, inexpensive lodging and lift passes. Hopefully, these luxury spas won’t raise prices and crowd roads. The winding snowy mountain roads make access to these lovely Alpine communities challenging, but the mountains are stunning.

Mighty inviting!

I am a former NYC woman, born there. I live here now! For 30 years. The Sound of Music was the first film I ever saw at 7 years old. Even today when I view only the first 5 minutes when Maria sings, "the hills are alive" I have tears in my eyes each time. Yes, The HIlls ARE Alive! Each and every day I wake up in a paradise on earth and thank my lucky stars for it! I feel blessed and I know I am..........and then there's those healing waters to soothe you. Feel like a million bucks. Imagine to dream with your eyes open daily. You will never want to be anywhere else.

Why not put in prices for all these options? Cost does matter!

Nearly every community in japan has at free, community maintained, or rather inexpensive onsen for everyone to bathe, enjoy and relax. It's ROI is more important than money.

These spas are great preparation for the days when there will be no more snow for skiing due to global warming. Soon upon us....

We went hiking to the dolomites last summer with Exodus and it's wonderful. Very high alpine walks which you access by cablecar thus avoiding the climb up. If US visitors want to go it may be cheaper to get a flight to London and then a low cost european flight to Venice. (Eg Easyjet, Ryanair, Jet2).

looks + sounds lovely. but just as these landscapes seem pure + unspoiled, this article appears unsullied by, dare i mention..., price tags. (or did i somehow miss any talk of cost?) i guess it's just one of those situations where if you have to ask, you can't afford it.

Your writing is absolutely beautiful, Laura. I can feel the Alpine relaxation from here.

A very well-penned article: illuminating, sensitive and descriptive, yet there resides a dilemma--a paradox. For those who live in these areas the tonic they offer is, well, just that: tonic and revitalizing, and in some sense they are 'local'. Indeed, one should share the beauty, but there is another side to the touristic coin, and that is the atmospheric destruction of what has been recommended by the recommendation. As is my experience, on many more than one occasion, a NYT's recommendation (and other venerable media institutions) unwittingly forever altered the normative character of what one might assume to be a hidden treasure i.e., a small restaurant in Venice...one that for decades has operated without fanfare and was well-supported by local clientele...until; and in the aftermath the places and spaces could not handle the burden/onslaught of so much business. The ramifications are manifold, from the inability for the local patrons to continue to frequent or, the place of business alters its manner of operation to the point it is no more the idealized place described by the travel writer; and a more sinister problem lies in the inherent desire for profit: increases in price. I'm not a curmudgeon, and for the longest time I have accepted these inevitable transformations to so-called authenticity. This incites a longer discussion, and I am not sure what the solution is given the pursuit of Epicurean pleasures in the age of Instagram. Come with curiosity and, respect.

It appears that the winter resort industry in the Dolomites are increasingly paying attention to people with creaky, older knees, such as mine. Last year we went skiing in a resort called Val Gardena in Italy. I felt 10 years younger than my 64 years of age. The slopes at Val Gardena are not especially challenging and every one of them is carefully groomed every day with nary a mogul to be found. There are a vast number of slopes and it's almost impossible to avoid places to eat along the way. I felt like a well fed Jean Claude Killy, someone the other skiers were old enough to remember as well. Thank you, Val Gardena.

How do you fly into this region?

Oh, to be rich. I'd live in an infinity pool with astonishing views.

There is nothing comparable in the US .No sense of communal life and pleasure . And of course the idea of being naked in a public space and with children around is completely taboo. Americans sent us the police because our little girl of 4 had taken her panty off at Battery Park in the middle of summer under a water fountain . The only place I can think of is the Japanese spa resort in Santa Fe . But it is small, expensive , and a bit contrived .

Nice piece but fortunately you downplayed many areas and aspects so this should keep Americans away! As plotkin says please tread lightly if you should go!

If only hoteliers were building such places in North America. We are in dire need of this closer to home.

Ah ....., this is a lovely article, like a coffee table book. This article allows me to dream a bit, but it is directed at folks who make more money than I do. I'll go to the high school basketball game this Friday night. I guess it is OK that I don't get everything I want in life.

Thank you for this article depicting an enchanting place. These Alpine lodges appear to be the perfect place to recharge the batteries of our stressful life . The mountains magnificent beauty , the silence and not least the pampering make these resorts quite appealing.

For the more active, the summers offer dramatic hiking from hut to hut through the mountain passes of the Dolomiti, far above the Alpe Di Siusa. The huts are a mix of affordable Alpine Club and private operated lodges, with big ceramic stoves to warm the airy common rooms and basic but comfortable rooms. The huts, ranging from a few rooms to dozens, allow thousands of hikers to enjoy the Dolomites with all of the degradation that camping would create, and good food and drink in a spectacular setting. I hope the farmers cutting hay in the Alps di Siusa still sell strudel to the passing hikers on their way down from the alpine heights.