New York Gets a Fresh Batch of Bakeries From Abroad

Jan 22, 2019 · 47 comments
J. Daniel (Brooklyn, NY)
It would be so nice if you folks would give this much attention to the myriad African, Mexican, and non-European breadshops throughout the City - these places are amazing and each one has a unique taste of its home as well as a story to tell. Guess theyre not good enough.
Pb (Chicago)
Also the delicious pan de bono and pan de queso from the Colombian panaderias in Queens..
D (Chicago)
Funny how no price ranges are offered... Bread is a luxury item these days. I cringe every time I have to shell more than $3.50 for a bread. Bread gets sales tax added, too. I'll give you a clue about what to expect as far as Princi bread. They opened in Chicago late last year and I was only aware of it because my Italian coworkers mentioned the Starbucks/Princi partnership. Well, I stopped by one day on my way to the train. They sell ciabatta the size of a baguette, really! and round breads (boule). Ciabatta - $7 Boule - $10 This is robbery! I told my coworkers, they were horrified and said in Italy a ciabatta is about 1 euro something. The joke is on us, people!
Jean (Holland, Ohio)
@D Learn to make your own!
Father Of Two (New York)
Why do you not name the Japanese and Korean bakeries? Eurocentricity and anti-Asian bias? Bakeries from Japan, if you have never been, offer western and traditional Japanese styled breads, cakes, etc. They are of very high quality and can match or exceed several of the westerner-owned bakeries you named. As a reader, I would be interested in finding out about the foreign bakeries that have opened in NYC from Europe, Middle East and Asia or elsewhere.
LB (New York)
Please, oh please, someone come to Northern Virginia and set up shop! No one here can make good bread.
Larry from Bushwick (Oceanside n.y.)
Since the stores are in Manhattan the prices are strictly penthouse.
Jean (Holland, Ohio)
@Larry from Bushwick Take a vacation in Ann Arbor, Michigan and take bread baking classes from Zingerman’s! But sign up for class in Advance, because many sell out at “ the best deli between NYC& Chicago”!
The Shekster (NYC)
I grew up in Brooklyn straddling two communities where buying daily baked bread was a ritual- Bensonhust and Boro Park. The Italians in Bensonhurst bought bread every morning from the many bakeries run by immigrant families from Italy. The loaves were rustic with a golden crust and a soft interior. My favorite was the Sicilian twist. The crust was braided and loaded with sesame seeds. I would consume a third of the loaf before I got home. You could stick anything in the Sicilian bread and it would taste incredible, salami being my favorite. For dinner if you were having the traditional red sauce (gravy) with spaghetti and meatballs or sausage, no better bread than a piece of Sicilian broken, not cut, from the loaf to mop up the sauce! Bread heaven. In Boro Park, the Jewish bakeries also made some memorable loaves - challah, rye and pumpernickel. We all know challah makes the best french toast but if you were lucky enough to get a loaf fresh out of the oven and still warm it was a special treat very few have experienced. The same holds true for rye bread. I remember the vibrating noise from the slicing machine if you chose to have your loaf sliced. Rye is special. It has a slight "sour" taste and that's what makes it unique. Recently I was in LA and had a pastrami sandwich with an old NY friend at Langer's Deli. I must say, the rye with the crunchy crust was the best I've ever had!
lee (dc)
Wonderful story, Shekster!
Steve (Hamden, CT)
Anyone know if these breads & rolls, particularly the rye, pumpernickel and marble are made with butter or milk? If they are Parve, or dairy free I can have a great pastrami sandwich!
Emily (Alameda, CA)
@Steve Rye, pumpernickel, and marble should not use dairy unless they are using very non-traditional recipes. It's only when a dough gets enriched that dairy comes into play generally- brioche, croissant, etc.
H Silk (Tennessee)
What I wouldn't give for a place that sells good bread. I live 30 miles outside of Nashville and there's nothing outside of Whole Foods. Sad.
mike (florida)
@H Silk WF makes a good San Francisco sourdough bread. I live in Florida.
Jean (Holland, Ohio)
@H Silk Fresh Market has stores in Nashville. Their brioche and other breads are quite good. Some breads only made certain days of week. Have you ever considered buying a bread machine? Williams Sonoma has a model that also makes jam: absolutely easiest way to make great jam. You can program your bread machine to mix, proof, and bake while you sleep, and awaken to smell of fresh baked warm bread. It works in a pinch!
mike (florida)
@Jean Sourdough is almost like an art. You have to keep it alive. Bread machine can not be compared.
Ben (Austin)
I normally strongly detest the spread of chains across NYC as something that has stifled so much of the home grown creativity that makes the city great. But bread is a little different. Each loaf is alive with yeast, swelling up as it breaths in the air from the city and drinks the water piped in from upstate. While the loaves mentioned here may share brands from various global chains, they can’t help but reflect the spirit of the bakers and the life of the city. I would love to see some of these bakeries in my city – where supermarket bread has stamped out so many of the local bakeries.
R (New York, NY)
Sourdough from the Great Northern Food Hall is the stuff of my dreams.
Danny (Bx)
wonderful, provide maps and more pictures please.
Irina (New York)
One of the best-kept secrets in NYC is the small store located on run-down block in the Coney Island area of Brooklyn. The store is named New York Bread and while it sells the same traditional Russian food delicacies as other ubiquitous store in the nearby Brighton Beach, the key differentiation is the bread, made from scratch. Their dark sour rye breads, are particularly great and come in many varieties. The prices are also a rollback to the 1980's, $2 for just-out-of the oven loaf. My kids love their white bread, soft on the inside with a delicious crust on the outside. At one point in my life, I contemplated on starting a no-carbs diet, and I knew that I could eliminate rice, pasta and even potatoes, the staple of the Russian cuisine, however, no matter how hard I tried, I could not eliminate bread, no matter what country it came from. Maison Kayser is just around the corner from my office and the struggle is real.
Sh (Brooklyn)
Daily bread is a wonderful thing.
Miss Ley (New York)
@Sh, And better still, it is known as The Staff of Life.
Marge Keller (<br/>)
"New York has no shortage of small, homegrown bakeries . . . now a fresh wave of overseas bakeries is on its way, from Australia, Italy and Scandinavia . . ." as the waistline expands. My husband always viewed a fresh, warm bread from the oven as dessert while ANY fresh pastry is my weakness. Oh how I wish I lived in New York just to try each of the new bakeries listed in the article.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@Marge Keller Have you tried contacting them by email or phone? Perhaps they could deliver your bread choices to your door-step.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@Marge Keller Have you tried to contact them by email or phone? Perhaps they would deliver the breads you seek to your doorstep.
Marge Keller (<br/>)
@Tuvw Xyz Thanks for the sweet suggestion. I just don't see any bread being delivered a day later yet tasting as wonderful as it does when it comes right out of the oven.
K Hunt (SLC)
The best bread in the Country comes with Sonoran wheat from Barrio Bread in Tucson. When you combine culture, heirloom seeds and 4,000 years of continuous cultivation, the longest in the Country, you are the only UNESCO City of Gastronomy in the U.S..
CK (NY)
We’re huge fans of the fresh baked breads and are always lamenting that our borough is missing a simple bakery where we can pick up soft warm morning baked bread, preferably without sugar as they tend to add in the U.S. or from chain bakeries. I look forward to testing these out and hope they didn’t try to cater to American taste buds!
dahlia506 (Philadelphia)
Oh, how I looove Ole and Steen!!!
Robert Callely (New York)
As far as the breads go, welcome one and all, but when it comes to pies, cakes and other pastries, there is nothing and no place in New York City better that The Little Pie Company on West 43rd Street bewteen 9th & 10th Avenues. I have tried loads of other places from Magnolia, Billy's, Amy's and on and on, but what they sell tastes like mixes out of a box or pies out of the store freezer compared to what is available at The Little Pie Company. The other places may have great marketing, but they certainly do not have better pies and cakes.
JW (NYC)
I miss the Little Pie that used to be on 14th just west of where the Apple store is now. Their cherry pie is the only store-bought version that I’ve found that comes close to what my mother used to make.
Sara Tonin (Astoria NY)
@Robert Callely That place is so good! The sour cream-apple! The walnut crumble topping! And I love that you can buy the little pies, perfect for two to share.
Pb (Chicago)
I am lucky, living in Chicago’s northern suburbs surrounded by Polish, Serbian, Russian and Lithuanian bakeries. We get fresh dense chewy rye breads with sunflower seeds, flax seeds, currants and caraway. Check out Fresh Farms in Niles which is an enormous multi- ethnic grocery store which bakes its own Eastern European and Greek breads and stocks everything essential like fresh tahini and sour cherry jam. I moved from Manhattan 5 years ago and thought I would never find good bread or specialty items but it’s there, albeit more spread out in Chicago.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ Pb Chicago My only exception to anti-industrial-bread feelings in Very Thin White bread, by Pepperidge Farm. It makes excellent toast that does not break under a spreading knife, if toasted lightly.
Pb (Chicago)
Sounds wonderful. Growing up in India, we would eat milk bread, a soft white thin bread toasted with ghee on a flat griddle(tava) with a smear of Kissan mixed fruit jam(available at Patel brothers on Devon ave) on top. Have to try this with the Pepperidge farm bread..
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
It is difficult to think, what new varieties of bread can be invented. Considering my favorite, a French baguette de pain, I was surprised not to find it on the list of products of the French company Maison Keyser, but only on that of the Belgian Le Pain Quotidien. Among the Italian breads, I love the puffy breakfast rolls that are easy to break up and fill with butter and/or marmalade.
Miss Ley (New York)
@Tuvw Xyz, The French baguette was invented by Napoleon for his troops on their march to Russia. 'Wonder Bread' is a favorite brand for this American who was brought up in France on stale slices of baguette and a bowl of powdered milk with a tinge of coffee for flavoring. Breakfast in those days was the culinary highlight of the day. A young British relation, when visiting New York had a strong dislike for English Muffins having stayed first with a headmaster. A friend in Paris enjoys a good receipt for an American Apple Pie, and when it comes to cakes, there appears to be no mention of the famous Austrian Sacher Torte. Another acquaintance tells me that even better than the above was a chocolate cake in France, enjoyed long ago, sitting on a grand piano next to a framed photo of Hitler. Of Cake and Ale, thanking Ms. Fabricant for a display of these delectable delights, and wishing I had a simple toasted bagel with butter. Oh well, there is always pigeon pie on ice, made secretly by the cat in the kitchen.
Across the Water (USA)
We like this kind of stuff across the water in NJ. Just a reminder that we'll happily take any good bread. There's over eight million of us here waiting for even more great bakeries!
W in the Middle (NY State)
Dom's@5th&Grand07030...
Ira (Wolfsburg, WV)
Charlotta Zetterstrom, who owns the company with her husband, the chef David Zetterstrom, said they started it to push back against industrialized baking. “We want to shift the negative reputation surrounding bread,” she said. Good luck with that, bread is the definition of a processed food, essentially candy in a different form.
Matthew (Nj)
Maybe in WV? These folks are not making supermarket Wonder Bread. Whole grain bread can be lower on the glycemic scale.
ACE (Brooklyn)
Wholegrains are lower; sourdoughs are lower; various grains are lower than wheat.
Emma (Denis)
You obviously know nothing about bread, real bread made with sourdough and not white flour (I don’t know how you call it in English) has a low glycemic index and is very filling so that you don’t need to eat a lot to feel full. It is a wholesome scarcely processed food (3 ingredients, kneading, proofing and baking) and the staple of a lot of countries. And the best thing with Brittany salted butter.
Imagine (Scarsdale)
Can't say I'm a big fan of rye or sourdough breads.
Marge Keller (<br/>)
@Imagine I concur about the sourdough (the only problem with sourdough bread is that it's sour). But rye bread? Nothing can compare to a deliciously fresh Bavarian dark rye - the mere thought of it makes me swoon.
Sara Tonin (Astoria NY)
@Imagine More for me!
bill (Madison)
@Imagine Apparently, you can.