A Wintry Braise Inspired by a Warmer Place: Vietnam

Jan 18, 2019 · 12 comments
PB (New York)
Beef was introduced to Vietnam by the Mongolians
Paul (Virginia)
Ah! Bo kho. Thank you, Mr. Tanis, for bringing back delicious memory.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
Mr. Tanis refers to French baguettes adopted by the Vietnamese since colonial time. I wonder if the Vietnamese baguettes are of the same quality as the truly French? I once wrote that outside of France the baguettes are never as good as in their motherland, and this comment attracted several replies on baguettes of excellent quality to be found in some places in the US. I still adhere to my view of a properly-baked baguette as having a crunchy crust on top and bottom, and soft alveolar interior. Some, like myself, eviscerate the interior of the dorsal and ventral halves of a baguette, before filling them with savoury ingredients.
Paul (Virginia)
@Tuvw Xyz The only and truly satisfactory answer to your question regarding Vietnamese baguettes is for you to take a trip to Vietnam and eat the baguettes.
Freddy (<br/>)
@Tuvw Xyz Real baguettes, a la francaise, with crunchy crusts and soft interiors can only be found in Lao these days. Best banh mi is in Vientiane!
ms (ca)
@Tuvw Xyz I have not been in Vietnam but my mother and aunt grew up in Saigon. My aunt visits Paris almost yearly (she speaks fluent French) and my mom has also been there. Like any place in the world, the quality varies: some places were excellent. Pre-1950s, there was a sizable French presence in Saigon, including bakers and cooks, and many Viethamese bakers/ cooks were trained by the French. Hence, it's not only bo kho or banh mi which uses French techniques/ ingredients but also dishes like banh xeo (a savory crepe), pate (made primarily with pork liver), pate chaud (meat filled puff pastries), and Vietnamese ham (like a terrine or headcheese). I also learned recently that the roasted aromatics/ bones used in the soup for pho is reminiscent of brown stock in French cooking. In any case, I grew up eating French bread/ pastries, cheese, and drinking coffee because of the French influence on my Asian family. Baguettes also actually consists of different types, depending on the grain used (e.g. traditional), crust: filling ratio (e.g. ficelle), etc. so when comparing, that must also be kept in mind.
Jnt76 (Westchester NY)
My mother would use coconut water or a can of Sprite to lend a subtle sweetness to the dish that rounds out the salty spicy sour notes of Vietnamese cuisine. The sour comes from the lime salt and black pepper dipping sauce for the beef.
Luan Do (Fairfax, VA)
It is also common to serve bo kho with rice noodles - the same type of noodles served with pho. Just make it with more liquid. Tendons are added for more texture and flavor. Lean beef isn’t good for this dish, in my opinion.
Bob (Ohio)
Substituted pomegranate molasses for brown sugar. Liked it.
jcz (los angeles)
@Bob Pomegranate molasses is my secret ingredient for many things since I first discovered it. I always put it in my chili and recently replaced brown sugar with it in a pour-over-before-cooking sauce (with ketchup, mustard and honey) for turkey meatloaf. The best meatloaf I ever made!
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
An inspiring variation of a pot-au-feu to be eaten with a baguette, the innards of which have not been eviscerated. (I usually recommend only the dorsal and ventral halves of a baguette for sandwiches). Even though I usually do not like cooked carrots, in this recipe I would make an exception and include them.
Nancy (Winchester)
@Tuvw Xyz Amusing way of describing the anatomy of a baguette. Not too sure I like thinking about the center as viscera though!