Fascinating, poignant.
I've wanted to visit Gulmarg and Srinigar for many years, since reading MM Kaye's little mystery novel "Death in Kashmir," which actually has a pretty good plot, btw.
Always been afraid to for safety reasons. Glad you and your family were able to make it.
12
Enjoy while you can. I'm sure it's a wonderful area for a week-end - but what a waste of resources when the rest of the world is threatened with all sorts of disasters. Such irresponsible jaunts will probably be banned in 10-20 years' time. Open your eyes and grow up, Jeffrey.
2
No matter what anyone says, Kashmir is a disputed territory forcibly occupied by India.
9
We took our family to Gulmarg in 2005 and we had a magical experience. It was hilarious and fun to be pulled up the mountain on a sled, the people are sweet and simple. We were delighted and enchanted. It is paradise for sure. Politics and war tries to ruin everything but this is an amazing place, thanks for sharing your experience.
13
I was there 23 years ago while visiting Srinagar. I was backpacking through Northern India and stayed on a beautiful house boat in Nigel Lake with the Baktoo family. They took me on a day trip to Gulmarg. It was mid fall and the skiing hadn't started yet but being a life long and avid skier, I could see the potential. Kashmir is a mystical place with lovely people. I've kept in touch with the Baktoo family and times have been difficult for all the people there. Tourism has always been a major economic drive but over the last 20 years, their livelyhood has been greatly impacted by the "troubles." I believe things have improved but I would keep an eye on the current situation before you go. But if you are up for an adventure then go to Kashmir. I am sure it will be a memorable experience.
2
It is time to settle old scores peacefully, and recognize that both sides can gain from an environmentally sustainable economic development of Kashmir. There is massive worldwide interest, and Kashmir has world class natural resources at hand. Bloodshed at the fateful separation of India tore asunder the fabric of a multicultural people that has persisted for centuries. It is time to reweave that fabric, as it is for the entire human race.
6
The Indians did, and reached out and peace prevailed briefly. Unfortunately external parties interested in fostering terrorism and keeping the pot boiling reverted to form and keep the pot boiling, keeps them in business. Try negotiating with ISIS, sadly the same story here
7
I remember being pulled up a slope in Gulmarg, on a wooden sled, and then probably being pulled back down. It was heaven!
And while I don't remember breathtaking Himalaya scenes from Kashmir, I do remember them from well beyond either Nanital or Simla. Meeting a relative in the navy (posted in the Himalayas!) at a ski resort, with views of mountains in the distance, that I still imagine and run through my head, decades later. Marvelous! I've almost forgotten about the soaked shoes, frozen toes and defrosting in front of a pot belly stove. As "Pete the Cat" says, "it was all good." And it was.
7
Hear ye all. Go to India, Pakistan, Iran, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Bhutan etc. They are all fantastic places with large spots of pristine beauty that are as safe as a packed mall in Minnesota on Christmas eve. Don't buy into the narrative that these countries are unsafe. The people are fabulously hospitable. And yes, sometimes you have to be alert to potential danger just like you would be in open air theatres at Las Vegas or at gay bars in Miami. Nobody tells you that you should not visit a National Park in Wyoming because gun violence claims a lot of lives across the US. Why on Earth would you let people scare you that way about visiting other parts of the world ?
43
Feathery snow can melt away any dispute, provided we avoid slippery slopes!
Seriously, here is the place where the leaders of two great world religions should meet and find creative solutions--and set an example for the new generation all over the world. How if the famous actors of Bollywood "act out" and help organise such an event!
1
In America we spend hundreds, perhaps thousands, of dollars on ski pants, snow boots, mittens, bibs, helmets and other items to hit the slopes...but to see the photos of the ladies in the snow with their salwar kameez and tennis shoes just made my day!
Wonderful story. Someday we hope to visit.
16
Next year in Kashmir.
Looks better than my home; Wasatch in Utah.
7
Great article. I am not a skier and never will be ... but this almost inspired me. Just a good piece of writing. I hope that those of the faith will go, if you live somewhere within a sensible distance.. And ignore all the negative comments here. I live in Brooklyn, which for many is regarded as a no-go area. You will survive !
15
@Roshan Shah and few others who are telling that Kashmir is a disputed terriroty that India occupied. It's totally wrong.
If people do not know facts and history, they should keep their opinion to themselves. Kashmir is part of India from the day one of its creation. It's Pakistan that sent its troops in the guise of tribal to snatch a part of it (with active collusion with the British, who was still controlling the army and admin during that initial period in 1947). It's the failure of Nehru's foreign policy that part of Kashmir is still under Pakistani occupation, despite of defeating Pakistan in three direct and one indirect (Kargill) wars and three of those wars on Kashmir and signed Shimla agreement but never respected the accord.
For a better understanding of facts and actual nature of Pakistani Govt from the very beginning one can watch this excellent and candid talk by a former Pakistani diplomat and ambassador, Hussain Haqqani- https://goo.gl/t4cJxw . Or watch this interview by Indian poet, author, writer and music composer- Javed Akhtar in a Pakistani news media, Dawn- https://goo.gl/ELDmRA
26
When you have to spend much of the article explaining away geopolitical unrest in and around the vacation spot, you might have a problem.
5
@HistoryRhymes and those who recommended
If "geopolitical unrest", is a problem, then MANY places in the world will be out of bounds.
How about Israel, for example???
To the Arabs - and PARTICULARLY to Palestinians - Israel is VERY MUCH a disputed territory and does indeed have considerable geopolitical unrest. Should Americans and others STOP going there???
9
Most Indians and, more importantly, Indian elites, who control almost everything there including Govt., hardly know how they are destroying one of the most beautiful and resourceful countries in the world so carelessly and mercilessly.
No country can match India's natural diversity and beauty and yet tourism is grossly neglected mainly due to poor governance, which cause lawlessness and sky high corruption. India has some of the best natural beauties in the world in almost every aspect- starting from snow clad mountains and ski resorts, sea beaches with golden sand and coral reef (equally, if not more, beautiful but much cheaper than Bahama/Caribbean), dense tropical forest with exotic orchid and other flora n' fauna (e.g. in North East India), huge coastal mangrove forest in Sundarban, desert in Rajasthan, so many dense jungles (not just forest) dotted all over India. I have visited many countries around the world, but India is unique, if anyone can adjust to the chaos and corruption there. Better to go with a very trustworthy Indian friend who actually knows the country.
Other than few communities there (e.g Bengalis), general tourism and visiting a place for its natural beauty (beyond taking selfies for social media and bragging rights) is not very popular among Indians. "Elite" of rich Indians almost always prefer to go to Europe and North America mainly for showoff than enjoying nature.
15
Afghanistan could be a great place to ski as well....with the Himalayas and tons of snow. I thought about it every day during the winter in our forward base.
9
I am from Kashmir,One of my friends shared this article on Facebook and since i saw that this article was related to my homeland and skiing i was intrigued to go through it.The picture of the Skier in the article in my younger brother who i could recognize by the gear and the goggles he is wearing as we exchanged it before this run as mine was getting foggy due to the weather ,such a coincidence :)
56
Thank you. That was a nice recap of the Gettleman family vacation to one of the India's crown jewels. May be next time you can also make it to Yusmarg (literally Meadows of Jesus), Doodhpathri and Bangus valley all of which are lesser known summer attractions on the Pir Panjal range. Elsewhere in Kashmir are Great Lakes and Tarsar Marsar treks which are some of the finest in India.
As Jeffrey mentioned in the article, the insurgency is largely a phenomenon of 4 or 5 districts in South Kashmir valley. Much of the state is no longer in its grip as was the case in the 90s and early 2000s. One still has to be cautious about general strikes when things shut down and some well known trouble spots (in the south Kashmir districts and some neighborhoods in inner city Srinagar for example) need to be avoided.
Finally, if you want to avoid the upredictable situation in the Kashmir valley, you can experience something close to it in Bhaderwah (little Kashmir) and its neighboring attractions in the Jammu region.
Hope the Gettlemans also visit the other ski resort Auli in Uttarkhand. You get fantastic views of Nanda Devi and other high peaks with some great hikes nearby.
18
I am in between jobs and heading to Karachi in 10 days to spend two weeks working my way up to Lahore, across the border into Amritsar and then up to Gulmarg for a week's skiing. Very excited to have read your article describing all of your wonderful experiences. Thank you
9
I hiked the Seven Lakes trek in Kashmir a few years ago. The exquisite beauty and charm of the valleys and lakes was unforgettable. However the place is an army garrison and few Kashmiris that I met consider themselves Indian. The sense of sadness and pessimism about the future for young folks hung in the air. My heart sank to see this and could only wish that peace, fairness and justice will prevail and that so many young people don’t have to leave Kashmir to sell carpets and jewelry to make a living in other parts of India. I would say that many Indians just get hard nosed about territorial rights without thinking about or knowing about the simple humanity of the folks living there and by the same token Pakistanis choose to forget their terrible role in Bangladesh whole espousing human rights of the Kashmiris not under their control. It seemed to me that Kashmiris had the same aspirations that we all do, how obvious....But they too will probably be swallowed by China if they were to be independent and I can’t see India ever allowing that to happen.
7
@Pashka Kashmiris are Indians.
3
I shared the same concern as authors wife. Thank you for the article. I will go there with my family
4
".... a feast of the senses..."
I liked that but what about India being a sensory overload?
A wonderfully written article about my favorite place in India - Kashmir.
I spend winters in Mumbai which is where is where I am now?
This is my 4th and last year. Unfortunately for me - it is now imposdible to go to Kashmir any more.
Don't get me wrong - you can fly into Srinagar from Mumbai - but getting from airport to hotel - no one can be sure because of curfews.
While Jeffery does not mention it here - when in Srinagar - stay at the Lalit hotel - almost in the banks of Daal Lake. The Lalit told me the same about curfews - which is beyond their control.
It's a former palace of a former Maharajah of Kashmir.
In my opinion, not too many hotels come even close to Lalit - for luxury, level of service and stupendous gardens.
Kashmir - with it's multitude of Mughal gardens - and it's tulip festival - yes, tulips in April - with snow capped Himalayas in the background - simply outstanding.
Jeffery does not mention one thing about Gulmarg.
Not only they will insist on help with shoes - they have tabbogans for rent.
But only licensed Kashmiri men can pull you - you cannot go on your own.
Welcome to Kashmir - when it is safe.
8
It sounds very romantic, exotic, and fascinating - and I went there after reading a similar article, a few years ago, with my ski buddy. We are advanced skiers who were hoping for a great back/sidecountry experience, endless terrain, and great snow. It was a big disappointment, even when the snow came, due to awful mismanagement of the place (avalanche control starts at 10:30, so don't bother going to the gondola after a big storm, you won't be allowed to ski that day, and maybe the next), and the terrain is not that large or varied either. The local guides told us that every winter the snow is coming later...
So maybe, for an intermediate skier with a lot of money to burn (getting there is quite expensive, and local hotels have Western prices and not quite Western standards), it could be interested but PLEASE don't make it into another "powder paradise" - it is not!
12
Such a wonderful article about the place I have my roots. My gratitude to the author.
19
I was in Gulmarg about 5 years ago for three days with my son(26 at the time) and wife. I was in my late 60s and had a lot of trouble with the altitude at the top of the gondola but the place was fabulous, skiing and scenery. And we did find a couple of restaurants that served decent wine.My son joined some Aussies and a back country guide and found the skiing to be "epic". All day runs to villages as described. The only Americans there were working for the mountain. Lots of Kiwis, Aussies and some Europeans. I did get to ride the gondola with some well armed Indian Security force soldiers(very friendly) but saw no other signs of unrest. Great place.
26
Totally awesome place, you could fly there return from NAmerica stay ski and eat for a week for what it would cost at Whistler for 4 days and get a super interesting experience and ski powder twice as light as anything the coast range could offer at 6000 ft in January on longer runs ... without people with selfie sticks. Then you should check out the Caucacus.
15
Good to read about the beauty of Gulmarg.India and Pakistan have a lot at stake in Kashmir. The source of water for
Pakistan is in Kashmir. If India tries to
control it and starve Pakistan there would be lot of trouble. The paradise always has a potential for trouble.
7
Disappointing that the author journeyed a great distance for a weekend trip. Our yearly trip from MA to the US Western resorts is usually a week of skiiing.
Also a 4 mile trail shouldn't take almost a day to ski.
It seemed like a quick write or over-edited, lacking in the details that most travelers would want.
2
Quick editing or quick reading? The article says they live in New Delhi and he was going to Kashmir for a work assignment. Someone they met at a party invited them for this already organized excursion.
28
As an Indian who has skied in Switzerland, Austria but not in my own country, this article both shames and excites me. I've put away visiting Kashmir for the same reasons as the author's wife, but this has me planning a trip there in late February.
One particular interaction which struck me was the following with Wali.
> When I asked Wali what he loved about skiing, he looked off into the hills and smiled.
> “I love it for the money,” he said.
> It wasn’t exactly the poetic answer I was looking for, but fair enough.
16
Nice article. Skiing is a wonderful and almost universal activity and a great way to see far away places especially when the cost does not force the adventure in to the 0.1% club.
However, please do better stats research if you intend to publish them. At over 4,100 feet of vertical drop, I highly doubt that Gulmarg has almost 7 times that. Even if you mean acreage as opposed to height, JH skiing encompasses a lot of side and back country...Have you ever been there?
Ok - so with that out of the way, I want to home in on the cost aspect. 2 years ago my wife and I skied in Germany and Italy to watch our daughter do some ski racing. Garmisch and Cortina and a few lesser known ski areas had lift tickets for 44 euros for a full day, and a nice "morning half day that goes from 830 to 130 - for a whopping 33 euros. Yes, that is less than 1/4 the cost of a similar ski area in the US.
The point is that as an American, you can learn to ski at the nice, family owned areas, (not Vail, IntraWest, ASC, or those new people who bought Steamboat) help your local economy, and one or two times a year go abroad for cheaper than a week of just the lift tickets at Vail. Yes, there are passes and deals like Mt Collective, EPIC, Ikon, etc, but main stream walk up skiing should not be such a pain.
Ski Iran. Ski Kashmir. Ski Morocco. Ski Lebanon.
Get out and Ski! It's a life long sport.
13
Thanks for a lovely article. For those interested, below is a transliteration of the quote at the end of the article. The poet is Amir Khusrau, a 13th century Indian of Turko-Persian origin who is revered through the sub continent for the elegance and beauty of his verse. For those with even a minimal understanding of Persian or Urdu, the words are mystical.
"Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast,
Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast"
17
There is no spot on earth the greedy human doesn’t wish to consume. I hope Gulmarg isn’t the next trendy destination, the kind of designation that opens the way to tourism prosperity for people like Wali, bragging rights for the ‘I bet you can’t top this’ travel set, and the despoiling of the sweet, unsullied charm that the writer experienced. The place with the overpriced hamburger in the US? It likely had charm and authenticity, once irresistible, long gone and replaced by developed splendor and squalor.
I wonder.
Then there’s the backdrop of the tragedy of Kashmir. Glad the writer’s wife was aware of the sadness, a side note, really.
I know, I know. We’re all witty, urbane sophisticates, seemingly entitled to gobble what we can afford to gobble in this brave (?) new world. We are disgusted by those who deny the human impact on climate and environment and ‘mindless consumerism.’ We the enlightened, the concerned, the ‘woke,’ aren’t being the solution. We too want ‘ours’ heedless of the big picture.
7
@Mary Gunderson Oh for heaven's sake, lighten up! Why shouldn't people know about and enjoy skiing in Gulmarg if they have the chance? Instead of pontificating, you might be glad that the local people would earn some income from visitors!
22
I really enjoyed this article. Can we have a few more like this and a few less about our president, please?
68
Excellent writing, but be aware that Kashmir appears to have changed dramatically over the past thirty years! In July 1988, our family fearlessly slept, fished and ate on a large houseboat on heavenly Lake Dahl, near the flower gardens. We drove up to the river in Gulmarg for a picnic and pony rides, with no other tourists in sight. Then after four days, without warning, we were instructed at 5am to pack immediately, bypass Srinagar and take the very next plane to anywhere. Severe fighting broke out in Srinagar the same day and, soon after, a Swedish tourist was kidnapped nearby and beheaded. We also heard that our houseboat had been converted into a gun emplacement and often wonder if the lovely family who owned the ponies survived. As a result I believe, as another reader has observed, that even the near-term future in that area in particular remains equally unpredictable.
5
@TL Jammu & Kashmir records 0% crime against tourists usually (it did in 2017 at least). I would say that the opinion you hold is either a misconception or it was valid for a certain period. I can assure you that it's not like that.
7
Thanks for this article: it brings back a wonderful memory. My wife and I spent a warm, crystal clear afternoon at Gulmarg in late April 1973. The resort was closed, but you could walk anywhere. There were only a few people there and some soldiers in small groups. Our driver insisted that if we didn't rent boots from the man sitting at the end of the plowed road, we would surely die. We told him to be there at 5 and we would be there. Snow was spring conditions, still very deep. A little wet, but quite dense, so you didn't sink in. No problem with tennis shoes. We hiked up to Killenmarg where we could see Nanga Parbat in the distance. And "skied" down in our tennies. We met a family having a great time in the snow. They said: you have to understand, we are from Bombay and have never seen snow before. Our driver was there at 5 and expressed no surprise that we had somehow survived.
9
Staying on the house boats in Sri Nagar adds to the magic of this truly unique place in the world. I was there in the summer and took a pony ride up the Sonmarg, which was pure magic. This was on the way from Sri Nagar to Leh, which is another very unique part of a India with its own distinct culture and charm. Pangong Lake, the Nubra valley and the highest motorable pass in world are just a short trip from here. Though skiing is not possible during the time of year where driving from Sri Nagar to Leh or Pangong Lake is possible, it is worth a trip in both seasons. I’ve always hoped to return in winter to ski Gulmarg. There was a skiing film made partly here called Off the Grid that would be fun to watch for anyone reading this and thinking about going.
9
Thanks for this great article. I went to Gulmarg as a child in the summer in the early seventies, it was beautiful then too.
7
While backpacking around in 1973, I saw a poster in New Delhi that said "Ski Kashmir". I had some money and time left, and decided I had to try. In January.
I couldn't afford to fly, and took a nerve-wracking bus over two mountain ranges to Srinagar. Thence a bus to Tanmarg, where I rented a horse for the 20 minute ride up to Gulmarg. Most of the other skiers were army recruits, training as ski troopers, and they did not look thrilled. The largest boots available were a size or two too small, but I jammed my feet in them, "skied" around the rental building, checked it off my list, and returned to the the ski lodge, where I spent the morning drinking tea and sunning on the deck. It was lovely.
Rather than pay for a horse again, I trekked back down the mountain through the snow and the trees, occasionally saving energy by holding my backpack in my arms, then falling backwards and sliding down through the snow on my nylon parka.
I want to go back.
By the way, the Kashmiris make wonderful leather coats, lined with natural goat wool fleece. You'll be plenty warm.
59
I read your article with great interest. It is thrilling to hear about visiting far away places and meeting wonderful people. I worried about the Kashmiris around you-were they putting your shoes on to receive a tip? Were they hungry? Was their family safe and kids in school? I wanted to hear more about the local people-I feel that the NYTimes takes us to so many places and teaches us all about them-thank you for showing us Gulmarg!;I just hope that the whole picture is described and that the real life of these Kashmiris is taught to us.
12
@Maria Saavedra : A hundred thousand at least might have been killed by gun violence in America over a period of time. Are Americans not safe ? Are there no poor in America ? Don’t their children go to school in America ?
19
@Maria Saavedra I'm a Kashmiri willing to answer any questions you might have. Fire away!
3
More articles like this. If you can ski/board on the ice covered pimples of the Midwest you can ski and board anywhere easily.
15
Great article. Reminds me of my time in Leh. Stunningly warm people in crisp cold air. A feast for the senses. Will definitely go.
11
Before some naive person jumps in about why India and Pakistan can't simply get along, think about this:
Pakistan is increasingly subservient to China, and with it's dire economic situation, China is going to demand and get more control of Pakistan. Could Pakistan cede defence control to China? Very much possible. All to keep India in check.
And so, that's the geo-political reality. India is not going to give an inch of this strategic piece of land.
I hope that Kashmiris find some peace, come to terms with the realities on the ground, the next generation can flourish, have a better life.
24
@Mehul Shah
Mehul forgot to mention innocent Kashimiries getting killed by Indian forces everyday.
Lets not forget; Indian forces firing and shelling into Pakistan every hour of the day.
There will be on peace in Kashmire until India holds fair elections and allows Kashmire citizens to chose their future.
5
@s.khan and @ AIM : You people are living in utopia. If Indian forces were to kill innocent Kashmiris daily for no reason, no Kashmiri would have survived by now. The Indian forces are only doing their job. That’s all. Try to face non stop pellets from the Pakistan inspired Kashmiris and then please walkout cheerfully as if nothing happened. For your information one military person died on account of pelting.
How can they be independent from nasty Pakistan and India ? How can this be a reality ? Who will pay for them ? What will be the resources of finance?
9
@Mehul Shah, why can't India stop
shooting those people or blinding
them with pellets hitting the eyes.
As the report says these Kashmiris
are wonderful, warm people. Golden
rule: treat people the way you want them to treat you. India hasmade them hateful by treating them with
brutality. Pakistan is irrelevant. As
the report says they don't want to be part of Pakistan, just independent
freed from the brutality of India.
5
Thank you for posting about this ski village! I was there on these slopes last year March 2018 with an entire bunch of 25-30 from our office in Srinagar ! Gulmarg is far out and though i have skied in Colorado several times, Gulmarg always beckons.
And yes the guides insist on taking your shoes off and putting on the skis. I actually rented mine on the slopes just where the restaurant is (and did eat there as well). If I remember correctly my guide was also an Ishfaq! And he probably took us to the same long slope, where after almost navigating it to the end, I face planted on a flat stretch! And believe it or not, a person swished past me and then another gave a helping hand and both were there from the US including one from near NYC where I live!
This was 2018. The last I had skied in India before that was on a week long trip to Auli in 1997 which was fantastic too.
Everything on that March 2018 day at gulmarg was similar to your day, even the clear blue skies. Except that when our office bunch went to Khyber hotel for lunch they were not welcoming. I got there just after the whole situation had passed but it’s Common and definitely sad that Khyber is not welcoming of the local Kashmiris in general.
I have been to Kashmir several times on work visits and it’s alwats been safe in Srinagar and surrounding areas - highly recommend others to visit
By the way did your kids insist on the helicopter rides nearby.
13
@Sk Thanks!
These pristine destinations in Kashmir are a hidden gem. I hiked these mountains for 9 years as a young man. Beautiful valleys, remote passes and stark lunar landscapes at higher elevations. Tourism will bring badly needed jobs and a boost to a desperately poor people. Their lives are unimaginably hard, poor diets and numbing winter cold. While I hope they benefit from the growing infrastructure, I hope it does not rob them of their wonderful disposition and kindness. I have been humbled by many acts of kindness from people that have nothing but will share everything.
39
Wow, that sounds like a beautiful adventure. I would love to see that area of the world with my family. Thank you for sharing that.
10
What a lovely portrait and a nice way to ease into a cold Monday morning. And i couldn't help but notice the "Las Vegas" and Mexican restaurants on the mountain. Ah, the long reach of the west.
18
Great article, Thanks for sharing your experience. I would considering going there when visiting India !!
15
What a marvelous piece. What a delicious weekend for the family and such a welcome break from the gloomy news that mostly assaults our senses. Thank you for this.
40
Great article Jeffrey! And timely as I depart for a RTW trip in three weeks. Kashmir is one of my potential stops along the way.
10
If the outcome of this piece is to show that even living in New Delhi one can find a place to ski, it was a good piece.
If the outcome is that people will generate tons of CO2 to fly half way around the world in an effort to be the first one of their friends to have skied in Kashmir, it was a disservice.
19
A wonderful article, and a tempting destination but I understand the hesitation about stability. I assume there are also less-politically-dangerous resorts in Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand and Arunachal Pradesh. If you take a ski trip to one of those, it would be great to hear about them. We need more travel articles about India.
28
Sigh. Beautiful. It's been years since I was in the Kullu Valley. Hoping to make it some day all the way to Kashmir. Thanks for a strong motivator.
4
"Well, what do you think dear..Austria, France, no, the Himalayas!" he said to his spouse as they lazily sipped Prosecco by the pool, ski magazines haphazardly strewn about the barcart nearby.
A nice prospect for the well-heeled readers of this publication,
a fantasy for the rest of us. Do people really live like this?
18
They live in New Delhi.
43
@Steven Robinson
The opportunity to make this kind of trip is part of the expat existence. That, and long flights home, to visit family you haven't seen for months or years, or finding a calendar that is filled with significant days that have no meaning to what you grew up with....Not always easy, always enlightening. Find your fantasy.
17
@Steven Robinson
Did you read the piece? Did you miss this line:
"The kids’ lift tickets were less than $3 (that’s not a typo)."
Google maps says you can fly from New Delhi to Srinigar, which is what the author says his family did, in 1 hour and 15 minutes, starting at $123.
10
Oh, thank you for all of it. Especially for showing what happens when you fall in paradise.
15
Thank you, Mr Gettleman. What a wonderful surprise to wake up to this beautifully written article about my home state. By the time I reached the end, my heart was unsettled and my eyes were moist with emotion.
Kashmir is gorgeous in all its four seasons. I'm grateful that you wrote about the beauty of its winter. Too often one only reads about the strife and conflict.
I also learnt skiing on the slopes of Gulmarg a long time ago, thanks to a friend whose dad had arranged the entire trip. It was a magical trip for me as well...the Khyber didn't exist then, but we did all right, staying in one of the government huts that dot the landscape. I remember reaching Gulmarg late evening and trekking through the magical snowy landscape by moonlight to reach the hut.
This past year in the summer of 2018 I convinced our friends from Australia (a couple) to visit Kashmir with us. Tellingly, the wife's impression about the political situation was almost identical to that of your wife. They had a wonderful time and also took the gondola ride up to the highest it could go (13,400 ft). I can just imagine that scene in winter covered with pristine snow.
I thank you again. I implore you to keep writing about this incredibly beautiful paradise on earth.
66
This read exactly like the introduction to a book and right where it ends the book turns dark. This beautiful place sounds safe for now, but I'm in agreement with Courtenay and by the end I was fully awaiting for the shoe to drop.
4
@Anderson
Keep in mind that the murder rate in Chicago is twice that of Kashmir. Kashmir is 85,000 sq miles while Chicago is 234 sq miles. Also bear in mind that most of those killed are insurgents followed by the security forces. Civilian casualties are comparatively rare. Kashmir is divided into Hindu, Muslim and Buddhist majority areas and the conflict is only in the Muslim areas. The closest comparison would be Lebanon, except the three major powers India, China and Pakistan have more then 1 million soldiers patrolling their respective areas where the local population is 15 million.
35
@Anderson I bet by end if you visit these chapter in the your life book will always outshine the others. I am resident of kashmir.
7
@Rahul
I was not aware there are Chinese soldiers in Kashmir!