The Best Baking Cookbooks of 2018

Dec 04, 2018 · 21 comments
Rebecca B (Tacoma, WA)
I don't understand the writer's fuss over the double cream or the superfine sugar called for in many of Donna Hay's recipes. I don't have any difficulty finding heavy and light creams (36% and 30% milkfat, respectively) in my supermarket's dairy case. And I wouldn't hesitate to use baker's sugar - also readily available at my local supermarket - in place of superfine sugar. (It is simply finer granulated sugar.) What I do find a bit more challenging about that cookbook - which *is* beautifully photographed! - is Ms. Hay's insistence on using "self-raising" flour instead of all-purpose flour a separate leavener, which I ascribe to being an Aussie vs. an American thing. I'll have to Google the right proportions of AP flour and baking powder to substitute.
Madeleine (Zurich)
"... it would be nice to see her books fully adapted for the American home baker". An odd comment, given that it is an Australian cookbook written by an Australian, so of course it should not be "fully adapted for the American home baker" because there are plenty of American cookbooks already. Furthermore, Donna Hay's book does indeed provide substitutes for Australian ingredients, including double cream (she suggests heavy cream). And her book has been thoughtful enough to include both metric and US measurements; the former is often missing from many American cookbooks. It's not all about the American reader. But Ms Laskey seems to think only Americans read the New York Times?
Paul (Melbourne Australia)
From the review: ‘If there is one sticking point, it’s that some of Ms. Hay’s (Australian) recipes call for ingredients like double cream that are not easy to find in the United States, and she provides no substitutes.’ Welcome to our world! So many recipe books currently published in the US offer few or no substitutes for ingredients for non-American countries which can be very frustrating. Nor do these books give the metric equivalents for the archaic Imperial weights and measures still in use in the US.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ Paul Melbourne Australia And there is more: European recipes are mostly given in units of weight (metric, of course), but the US recipes are by volume. To say nothing that the US is the only country in the world, or one of the very few, that still uses English weights and measures.
Rebecca B (Tacoma, WA)
I can't help you with the availability of obscure ingredients, but I can help you with some basic conversions. I have seen guidelines that vary from these (especially with the flour, which I have seen converted to as much as nearly 10% over my estimate), but these are the conversions I have compiled from experience: 1 cup flour = 133g 1 cup granulated or brown sugar = 200g 1 cup confectioners/ powdered sugar = 120g 1 large egg yolk = 15 - 16g 1 large egg white = 32 - 33g 1 cup butter = 227g For ingredients used in smaller amounts (e.g., salt, baking powder, etc.), I don't think gram weights are precise enough. For those, I'd order a set of 4 measuring spoons (probably 1 tablespoon, 1 teaspoon, 1/2 teaspoon, and 1/4 teaspoon) from the online retailer of your choice, and measure those out the way I think most Americans do (or probably should).
Leading Edge Boomer (Ever More Arid and Warmer Southwest)
Just wow. This article ignores Stella Parks' "Bravetart: Iconic American Desserts." It won the 2018 James Beard Award for best dessert cookbook. What are you thinking?
Marge Keller (Midwest)
@Leading Edge Boomer Stella Parks' incredible cookbook, "Bravetart" was showcased in Melissa Clark's December 4, 2017 column,"The Year’s Best Baking Cookbooks, for Novices and Pros". It was a fantastic and thoroughly researched article. It's still available on line and worth a second and even third reading. I was so enthralled with Ms. Clark's recommendation, I asked for the book for a birthday present and received it.
Hayford Peirce (<br/>)
Unless your kitchen is 100 degrees or so, removing eggs and butter from the refrigerator 30 minutes in advance will NOT bring them to "room temperature", ie, 70 or 75 degrees. Most refrigerators are COLD. It will take at least a couple of hours for eggs and butter to become "room temperature". After years of emails and comments to Sam Sifton I finally got him to admit that bringing a roast beef from the fridge for "an hour" ahead of time would not get it *remotely* near "room temperature".
Marge Keller (Midwest)
@Hayford Peirce To bring my butter and eggs to a more reasonable "room temperature", I crack open each egg and place in a separate dish and then put the butter in the mixing bowl I will be using and slice it into a total of 8 small squares. It's amazing how quickly these two ingredients warm up once their cold outer garment is removed and are allowed to warm up individually rather than collectively in one bowl.
Bradd Silver (San Mateo, CA)
I find everything I make from Sister Pie to be excellent and I will continue to use it frequently. My issue: the use of volume measurements rather than weight for many ingredients. Their choice is mentioned in the book, true. But why not both? It is a delightful and useful book in every other way.
MDM (London)
Adding salt (or salted caramel) to sweet things seems now a matter of fashion. It doesn't appeal at a time when we are told to reduce salt generally. I am curious about the idea of being fashionable in cooking....
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ MDM London I think that only the snobs and gustatorily insecure worry about being fashionable in cooking. The greatest dishes created over the centuries are today as worthy as they were in the past.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
Baking and baking cookbooks are for gentle souls. Their products should be respectfully eaten with a desert fork and accompanied by a cup of tea, held in the hand with the little finger bent and protruding to the side. I do not like pies filled with gooey ingredients, some fruit pies are well enjoyable, but by far the best is flowerless dark chocolate mousse torte. No offense meant to the makers and lovers of traditional pies.
Jen in Astoria (Astoria NY)
Wot? No bread books this year?
Charles Michener (Palm Beach, FL)
@Jen in Astoria: I wondered the same thing. For me (as for many bakers), baking is first and foremost about bread. Baking as part of a dessert is way down the line.
Suzanne (<br/>)
You can find the recipe for that amazing-looking chocolate cake on Donna Hay's website ... and black sea salt is available on Amazon.
Lee G (Mass.)
There is also a link at the bottom of the article!
Marge Keller (Midwest)
Every December I look forward to this feature in the Food section because I am always asked what cookbook I would like for my birthday and Christmas. These wonderful NYT food editors do the grunt work and research and always, ALWAYS come up with at least 2 or more baking hits. I cannot wait to peruse Donna Hay’s “400-page doorstop” cookbook, “Modern Baking: Cakes, Cookies and Everything in Between” with its “jaw-dropping photography”. It’s always the photography that lures me into the kitchen to see what ingredients I have on hand vs. need to purchase for the recipe I “must make right now”. The picture of Ms. Hay’s salted chocolate dark chocolate layer cake with milk chocolate ganache truly jumped out at me. I think that will be my birthday cake of choice this year. I was thrilled to read that Rose Levy Beranbaum wrote another cookbook. I love her “Rose's Christmas Cookies” book and thumb through it every December. It’s a work of beauty and art. I cannot wait to get my hands on her “ Baking Basics: 100 Essential Recipes” book. What intrigued me the most is the “Sister Pie” cookbook because pies have always intimidated me which is probably why I have never been a pie person. But my husband adores that dessert so hopefully this new book will help dispel those fears and make a pie baker out of me yet. I think this book will be at the top of my husband’s list of gifts to give me this year. Thanks for a wonderful and enlightening article!
muddyw (upstate ny)
@Marge Keller - I totally agree with you about "Rose's Christmas Cookies" book -the pages are all falling out of my copy (I gave a replacement I bought to someone else). There are some I make every year, and every year I try another new recipe - and they are always popular.
LM (DC NYC)
@Marge Keller this is slightly topic-adjacent, but I just want to let you know how much I always enjoy your thoughtful and positive comments on the NYT website (we seem to read a lot of the same stuff). Usually comments sections are...not like this. Thank you, best wishes for the holiday season, and I hope you receive and enjoy the Sister Pie book!
Marge Keller (Midwest)
@LM WOW! Talk about thoughtful and positive comments - thank YOU for this kindness and for sharing it. You will never know how much I appreciate it and how deeply special it makes me feel. Best wishes to you and yours during this holiday season.