I grew up in Kolkata, this article made me miss home, particularly the street food and descriptions of old spots like Peter Cat. But I also found it a little colored through rosy glasses. The city is not as "feminist" as made out to be, I was groped on a daily basis in public buses and the metro, stalked for years by a neighborhood creep (nothing we could do about it but me creatively change my routes or take an escort wherever I went), generally felt unsafe as a girl in the streets, and faced plenty of institutionalized sexism from school, bureaucracy (banks, police, etc.), not to mention from family; so I beg to differ on the gender equality. Yes, Kolkata has less of the serious and life-threatening sexism like dowry, female feticide, etc. but don't expect gender equality. Also, the writer being a "foreigner" man, will be presented the rosiest picture by locals. Its different when you blend in, but into the wrong category.
Yes, I miss the street food, lovely tourist spots, bookshops, and the literary atmosphere, but I do not miss feeling unsafe as a woman or a girl growing up with little personal independence and tons of public judgement on how I looked (too "skinny" an now too "fat") and dressed (catcalls and lewd street harassment if I so much showed my knees).
4
Excellent response! I totally agree. And what about the millions of poor women - how feminist are they? This is some long tale spouted by upper middle class women who were fortunate to have some education and a career.
2
This article does justice to this place and its people.
The true Kolkata, however is not in these spots alone, it is in the heritage walks, winter fairs, Durga Puja, local train rides around Kolkata, the theme parks - the city is very different those five days, during the festival.
A five minute boat ride to Belur Math from Dakhineshwar to see the Museum and Vivekananda's showroom could have added more value to this journey and travel experience.
1
The picture of the 'soaring Gothic Revival beauty of St. Paul’s Cathedral' in Kolkata reminded me of the lost once-in-a-lifetime opportunity of being in the same church with the queen of England but where, nonetheless, I felt her personal warmth.
In the summer of 1962, Queen Elizabeth came to Kolkata. I had just graduated from the St. Paul's School in central Kolkata, and some of us (some of the 'bhalo chhele' - good boys?) were given passes to enter the cathedral where the queen would be attending a mass. It was a great privilege.
We were not one of the car-owning class of Kolkata then (our Bosnian cleaning lady here in the US regularly comes to our house in a Lexus RX350!) and I had to take a bus from a place where my sister was getting married the same day to get there and I got to the cathedral a few minutes late.
The guards (i.e., the police; note: the police in India still don't carry guns, only 'lathis'!) stopped us at the gate, but helpfully said that we could go in after the queen leaves. What a let down!
After she left, we went in. Someone pointed out the chair she had sat in. A few of us went and and sat in that very chair.
It was still warm!
6
Good point about food hygiene. I see some food bloggers eat at questionable places and cringe. People should keep this in mind, diarrhoea in the tropical, humid heat of Kolkata is unbearable.
Also, a couple of points regarding the sweets, which so close to my heart. Sandesh isn't made of curd, it's made of cottage cheese (unsweetened ones taste like ricotta). There is no coconut cham-cham; the coconut-flakes like white dust on top is actually dried milk solids. And mishti doi is not supposed to be tangy (only tastes so if it is old and has gone sour)- its supposed to be sweet and some shops sell a caramelized version of it. I don't know if the author is still in Koljata or not, but anyone visiting Kolkata must also try its sprawling Indo-Chinese scene, specifically the cuisine. (In fact, of all the 'Chinatowns' in Indian metropolitans, Kolkata's is the most populous). The typical sweet, sour, umami flavor of Kolkata Chinese is a flavor we grew up with.
8
Being a resident of Kolkata for the last 30 years I have a fair amount of idea about the City Of Joy. This article is good from the point of view of a foreign tourist. However it is incomplete. The Kolkata the article speaks about is incomplete.
I get it from the mention of prices of lodging, travel, book and food items that this is a tourism piece, still.........
2
I'm quite impressed with how Lucas Peterson has captured the essence of Kolkata. Reading his piece felt like it has been written by someone who knows the city inside out.
Only one thing I didn't see in his piece was any reference to or discussion of the tradition of 'Adda', a uniquely signature Bengali past time of delving into prolonged discussion or arguments among friends on any topic of literature, arts, cinema or even politics over food and beverage. There's is no equivalence to 'Adda' in the western world. The closest that comes to mind is the concept of the Viennese Kulturhaus Cafe, although 'Adda' is much more intimate and less formal than its Austrian counterpart.
I would also add 6 Ballygunge Place to his list of restaurants. This joint probably captures the essence of local Bengali food better than most others.
But I'm very mindful that this is too much to ask from Mr. Peterson. He has already done a superb job!
7
Thank you for penning such a great article on Kolkata. I am reading it ,over and over again , as I am waiting for my delayed flight to Sydney from Adelaide. Your article truely celebrates the very essence of Bengal heritage : education, art and culture. It will definitely create a strong bond between Kolkata and readers across the globe with improved understanding, tourism and people to people interactions. Thank you once again.
5
Having lived in Calcutta for 3 years, I agree with the author that it is full of under-rated, nay, unknown possibilities. I would recommend for the intrepid traveler a trip via Metro or tram to north Calcutta. The northern half of the city is crammed with alleys and lanes lined with magnificent architecture, some decaying, dating from the British Raj. More often that not you can ramble for hours in these neighborhoods and never see a tourist or foreigner. The whole northern half of the city should be a UNESCO World Heritage site.
12
Loved the article and the fact that the author walked the streets and took the Metro. the Metro is unbelievably cheap and efficient! Memories of my college street days (now many decades old) were revived quickly...even though I visit Calcutta often, I have never had the time to go back to the Coffee House.. must rectify during next visit. BTW, mutton dosas at coffee house used to be excellent..not sure if they still serve. Also somehow Lucas you missed my favorite street food...the "roll" aka kathi roll incarnation in NYC...if you have missed the original in Calcutta, you may have to make do with the US version...
7
This article feels exceedingly shallow in its content. It seems as if the writer captured a fuzzy snapshot of the city while presumably being whisked from attraction to attraction over a relatively short period of time (also, Victoria Memorial should only cost 200rs for a foreigner...beware of getting cheated).
It's incredible to hear that there was a woman who did not seem to experience any gender-based inequality here, but generally speaking, that cannot be further from the truth. This was clearly written by a man: as a foreigner woman, I cannot go anywhere without being catcalled, stared at and, on a handful of occasions, touched inappropriately in public spaces. "Ladies" and "Gents" seating exists on public transportation for this very reason: it is not only the foreign females who fall victim. I could go on about blatant discrimination, sexual pressure in the workplace, domestic expectations, and more.
There are certainly strong women in the city doing great works, but this article paints a naively rosy picture compared to what truly exists. If the author would have taken the time to interview multiple locals with the same set of questions, I think nuances would arise which would have helped this article not fall so flat.
For a professional travel writer, sharing a deeper understanding of locations visited would be helpful in directing other travelers to the true gems of places like Kolkata rather than guiding them to tourist hotspots.
9
@A. I have been a "foreigner woman" in Kolkata for 11 years now and never once have I been "catcalled, stared or touched inappropriately." I love this city. And I think the author did a great job in a short time being here and this being the 49th destination.
11
@A. I just returned from Kol and can confirm that the Victoria Memorial is 500r for non Indian citizens. It is less if you elect to just walk the grounds and not enter the memorial itself.
1
Excellent response! Where’s the gender equality for the millions of poor women?
I am born caluttian now kolkotian. No place like Kolkata, great food and yes we all like sweets very much. you have to be careful with street food specially anything with cold water, other than that no problem. Living in US over 40 yrs I also have developed week stomach, when I visit now I also watch what I can eat on street.
But I would eat street food for the taste even knowing I may get sick that’s what medicines for. Kolkotians are well educatated breed unlike other states where literacy is not a priority. Kolkata is an exception. Read Roy, Tagore, Swami Vivekanand, Basu and so on.........
Reading books was a big part of my childhood. I am an avid reader all becaus of Calcutta.
Author should have included Dakhineshwar and Belur Math. Kolkata is changing in big way and 2nd biggest tech companies preferred place in India after Bengluru. Good to see an article in NY times
@UC:
"Kolkotians are well "educatated" breed unlike other states where literacy is not a priority"
You had the gumption to say this when West Bengal (whose capital is Kolkata) ranks 20 in literacy rate in India!
4
Reminiscence of colonial rule in East India company's capital
with author's support for incredible India's tourism promotion.
1
Calcutta, great place its been awhile since I was there, the
Fairlawn was there and was run by an older colonial Brit couple. It was classic. Under the bridge was the flower market and if is still there, it was 10 years ago you should go. If it was the author should have included it. First light is when the action happens, colourful noisy and sensuous. Go to India. The Garhwal to to Kerala you'll be surprised how big it is and full of people.
3
Your cautionary note about safe eating in Calcutta should certainly have included a "DO NOT DRINK FRESHLY PRESSED SUGAR CANE JUICE" warning, instead of encouragement to buy and drink it, on the street. In Maharashtra, where I have been for 4-6 months every year for 28 years, we call the juice,"parasites in a glass". It is often loaded with giardia and other protozoans. The filthy presses used to extract the juice are interesting to look at but are probably crawling with microbes as well. Look, don't touch or drink.
12
A wonderful, at times elegant, at times vibrant, at times bookish, city. Avoid (at all cost) ice cubes. Take my word for it...
9
"With a rich literary tradition and strong educational institutions, Kolkata also has a more relaxed and peaceful feel than some of India’s other modern metropolises."
Although I have not visited Kolkata (yet), it would be remiss to mention its strong educational institutions without mentioning the University of Calcutta, an institution which produced four Nobel Laureates as well as luminaries in science such as astrophysicist Meghnad Saha, Satyendranath Bose (of Bose-Einstein condensation fame), and C.V. Raman.
8
@Krishna Myneni Appreciate your highlight on the four Nobel Laureates.Please note, "Of the four you mentioned, Sri.Rabindranath Tahoor received Nobel prize for literature,his Alma mater is university college, London. I couldn't see any link with Univ.of Calcutta.
Unfortunately,Saha and Bose didn't receive Nobel prize.
Sir C.V.Raman is from Chennai in Tamil Nadu,his Alma Mater is Presidency college,Chennai,university of Madras and he received Nobel prize for the research carried out at IACS,Culcutta when was working as Prof. of Physics at university of Culcutta. Thanks.
@N.R.JOTHI NARAYANAN
Appreciate your honesty. Just a small correction - CALcutta not CULcutta
I recently visited Kolkata 4 decades after studying in Presidency College. Central Kolkata reminds one of Havana, Cuba, and not any other city in India or elsewhere. Numerous leftist governments have chased away any new investments. I even saw the same customary “gherao” where strikers blockade a factory and the police will not ensure safe passage for anyone else. There is a general sense of decay, and new malls and apartments buildings can only be found in the satellite townships. The exhibits in the Indian museum were unchanged for more than 50 years and is a perfect example of a city whose corrupt leaders have failed their people while espousing pro-worker ideologies. The teeming humanity populating the sidewalks seemed unchanged. The bustle is still there, but the hustle is absent because the youth have fled to other Indian or foreign cities.
10
I visited Calcutta once about 40 years ago - and still remember it fondly as the intellectual hub of India - anyone would happily argue have lengthy discussion with you over any philosophical point, over a cup of tea and walk away smiling.
Despite the grinding poverty (The Black Hole of ...) with many people lining the footpaths to sleep every night, I remember it as the most intellectually fascinating and happy place I visited in India.
3
Calcutta, the name under which I knew it, is a fascinating city. The three years I lived there were the educating of the several places I lived. Fine Bengali food, colonial architecture, museums, vibrant if occasionally chaotic lifestyle, tons of history, fabulous music, exciting interesting population. Okay, food hygiene needs improvement but follow the rules and carry along useful medicinals. It is great place.
13
A trip to Kolkata without a visit to Belur Math and an understanding of the influence of Sri Ramakrishna and Swami Vivekananda on Bengal, India and the West would be an incomplete picture of Kolkata.
7
Kolkata...delicious food and good people. Would
the reporter please return for a longer visit
I have many very fond memories of Kolkata. I landed there in 1965 on my way to Odisha where I taught english. Later I was UNICEF Field Rep in Bihar.
I stayed at the Fairlawn Hotel in Sudder Street which
I just discovered was recently acquired by a member of the Oberoi Hotel family.
In the 1980s when I was a Director of a Canadian company in India met Biki Oberoi, and enjoyed many delicious dinners,excellent scotch and stimulating conversation.
I note Vikram Oberoi is now CEO.
Vikram, would you kindly give my warmest greetings and best wishes to you father.
thank you
David Andrew Henry
ancient Canadian
Now living in the Chicxulub Crater where the
asteroid crashed 65 million years ago
ps
Many Canadians winter on the Yucatan Coast and
they like Indian Cuisine. This region has delicious fish.I still have the Oberoi recipe for Hilsa...mmmm!
My wife Conchita has a little restaurant, and I sometimes cook a Barra Khana...never as good
as the Oberoi Grand, though !!!
for authentication google
Marlon Brando visits India village with UNICEF official ITN 1965
17
The product placement for America's Silicon Valley parasites like Uber and AirBnB is disheartening and shows a lack of sensitivity to Indian mores. Next time you visit, try at least to learn the local versions - pick up an Indian SIM card at the airport, get yourself online with India and live the real life. Sad!
10
@CL the delay and excessive documentation necessary for a casual traveler to pick up a SIM card in India makes your suggestion impractical. You seem not to actually understand India much - we love Uber (cheaper than Ola), and Indians use and trust airbnb. Your statement is political, not factual.
31
@Rustamji Chicagowalla
Yes, getting a SIM card in India is almost impossible. The needed documents keep changing with different personnel at the same vendor. Seems like they are not interested in selling to foreign travellers, citing everything from security reasons to being out of stock.
Much easier to get a SIM card in Bangladesh..
2
@Rustamji Chicagowalla getting a SIM card requires a photocopy of your passport and a local phone number (such as your hotel) to verify that you are actually in India. Most telecom shops will make the photocopy for you.
That's excessive documentation?
Your comment is misleading.
1
Felt like an advertisement for the city essayed by a local resident. Good that the writer has hit all the right notes and summarized most of the essence of Calcutta in such a short piece.
4
The heart of India ?
Really ?
It’s the heart of W Bengal and that’s it .
India as a country is too divided up into various states and language groups and cultures within the various language groups and sub cultures to be defined by any one city in any way shape or form.
As an example, visit southern Kerala to see a land that was not under British rule and had enlightened rulers through the course of centuries - including a queen who championed education - and where people have cast aside caste issues. Where religions co exist peacefully side by side . Caste and religion being issues that are conflict inducing in other areas of India.
Kerala - Where if there had been more than a 100000 ‘street children’, the authorities and the locals would have done something about it. As they have in creating the best health care environment in India with very limited resources and very dedicated medics . Such that the Kerala model of healthcare is discussed by US academics in Public healthcare studies.
India - perhaps the most diverse nation on Earth - will definitely not be defined by one city .
It is a nice article otherwise :)
21
@Matt
...visit southern Kerala to see a land that was not under British rule"
Not true, really: southern Kerala (Travancore & Cochin) were "princely states" of British India
3
Kerala also doesn’t have 10’s of thousands of poverty -striken Bengalis coming in from Bangladesh and Nepalese. Christianity and a less socialist government.
6
Actually Kerala had the first democratically elected socialist government. Much of the infrastructure was created by those early socialist governments.
2
Kolkata is indeed a unique place in India! Full of communists, artists, intellectuals, and foodies. But very little truth to the comment "never needed to be a feminist"...
Thanks for the interesting read.
7
Oh! Kolkata! Somehow sounds odd.
3
The "word about street food" is enough for me. I don't touch it in third world countries. There are no health standards, no inspections, no guarantees of what you're eating. I won't take the risk, no matter how trendy it is to do so. Boiling tea, OK, but much of the food can be under-cooked, so who knows. Local are adapted to it, I'm not. If I could be sure that a vegetable-based dish was properly cooked, maybe, but anything with meat would be right out. I know I'm missing something but, as the article suggests, whatever I'm missing doesn't outweigh the risk. If you have a higher risk tolerance, go for it. But my experience in Delhi doesn't inspire confidence. The entire street scene can be pretty awful to western sensibilities, and no matter how conscientious I was I still got the "stomach bug," though not a nasty one.
Established restaurants, however, are a different story. Having experienced that side of Indian cooking and lavish buffets at a wedding I can assure you that if you want the best Indian food, go to India. The article notes the sweets. Some of them are transcendently good so save room.
9
@Stevenz Indeed street food in Kolkata can be outright dangerous. Meat or fish as well as fruits from street vendors that have already been cut are to be avoided. Bottled water is a must. Mosquito borne diseases like dengue fever are causing havoc.
Victoria Memorial is just about an OK place to visit. The real gem is the museum on Jawaharlal Nehru road. This just should not be missed, as it has fantastic collections (in particular of Greco-Bactrian artworks) from the time that Kolkata was the second city of the British period; The gov't art college right next to it is another place worth visiting. The Kalighat temple, along with the adjoining stalls that sell brassware on high holidays can be of interest to the curious.
3
@Stevenz
"I don't touch it in third world countries."
Now, that certainly establishes your mentality and tone for at least some of your readers.
How "congenially" colonial, regardless of the condescending grace, if we can call it that, about transcendently good sweets and the "guarantee" of eating at established restaurants.
You are correct, Calcutta's street food has no formal "health standards, no inspections, no guarantees of what you're eating." Yes, indeed.
None needed. Though, I can see why it might be an important factor for some.
I grew up in Calcutta and can attest to eating the amazing street food as a kid and even now, having lived in the States for over three decades, I make sure to enjoy the street food on every visit back to Calcutta. It's so bloody good!
What Calcutta's street food aficionados do get is bold and mouth watering flavor, stunning variety, memorable and joyful experiences, laughter with friends while downing some puchkas, or whatever street food they choose to enjoy.
If a health inspector were to ever come around (the second week after never, one hopes), the customers would evaporate because they know that all the magic would be sanitized away.
Bring on the flavor, bring on the amazing blends of spices, Heck! I'll handle the runs if they visit.
Calcutta - Don't ever stop the street food. It's the best in the world. Keep the darned health inspectors away. Keep cooking. Keep delighting our palates and our hearts.
8
@Stevenz It depends where you go for street food in Delhi. When I was there, I took a "street food tour" led by a self-described "Delhi foodie" named Jyoti Agarwal. She knows exactly where to go for clean street food and where to avoid. Highly recommended for visitors to Delhi.
2
Sandesh is the exquisite culmination, the perfect pinnacle of everything that’s dairy- creamy, fragrant with rose water, cardamom, saffron. It’s the madeleine of my childhood in India’s east coast. I have been looking for it in the US but Bengali food and sweets are hard to find. The curry row restaurants are mostly Bangladeshi takes on Punjabi food. Beautifully written article which evokes the grace and chaos of Kolkata.
15
I went to Calcutta few years back - and loved it. My travel equation - if people warn you off a place, its generally worth going to - was borne out in this case. The architecture was magnificent, people still spoke to one another and the city retains a soul which is lacking in Bombay or Delhi. That's not to play down any of its problems.
I would recommend doing a food tour - with a good guide you can get the best introduction to the city's delights - not just the sweets and street foods but the incomparable kebabs and fish curries.
19
My home town is Calcutta and I can attest that this is the most quintessentially Calcutta way to experience the city. The lethargic French-like mood is captured very nicely as well! Well done!
18
Calcutta is perhaps the most underrated city in India. Its vvibrant culture, historical offerings and fun things to do should be on every traveler's list of places to go. Unfortunately, the Indian government has neglected Calcutta an West Bengal in general. Intrepid travelers can change that.
11