Complicated. On the other hand Athens is over run - or the key tourist spots like the Acropolis are totally overrun by hoards of selfy-stick, Instagram snapping Americans who don't have a clue about ancient Athenian history. No fun at all for our last stay in Athens which is a negative change from other stays.
It would be nice if some of these "36 Hour" articles imparted some real knowledge instead of recommending trendy bars and shops. It seems to me that the latter encourages no-nothing tourism e.g. "we're just here for the party."
On the cabs, yes, there are cabbies trying to cheat, hustle unsuspecting tourists. Usually they are hanging around key tourist spots. The best defense is to know the cab fare. When these drivers give an absurdly high fare amount - simple say no, cross the street and hail another cab. So knowledge is your best defense. This goes for other big cities as well.
12
Spent a wonderful week with family in Athens this past summer. The people are extraordinarily warm and welcoming. Let me recommend the meat and fish market and a small restaurant in there - Aggelos - where for practically nothing they get your food from the market and cook it up feet from where you're sitting. Delicious!
4
Before of after the Greek Islands, make time for Athens. 36 hours is surely not enough to savor it. We spent 4 days in Athens after our vacation in Santorini and we want to go back. In Santorini the hotel gave us access to a wonderful app called "travelgems" for finding the best places to eat based on our profile. We were happily surprised that the app worked miracles in Athens too, there was not a single meal that was not glorious.
7
Just returned from four weeks in the Cyclades with four days in Athens at the end. Can't agree more that Athens is an increasingly dynamic, engaging, delightful city. Over the five years I've been staying in Psirri for several days at a time I've noted a definite upswing in the mood and variety of places opening up, the art scene which I think will be 'the new Berlin' in a few years and all this, plus the museums and the classics are well worth a visit. Two great finds this trip: Yiasemi Cafe in the Plaka offers a delicious vegetarian/vegan brunch for 10E that is all homemade... various tartes and quiches, omelets, fruits, cakes, juices, coffee, yoghurt and more. And even better.... from 9-11 a.m. there is a talented young pianist, Vaya, who riffs on jazz, blues, classical music and more. Great way to start the day! Then, if you love Rembetika music there is a small cafe adjacent to the historic church in the middle of Ermou Street, directly across from the H&M store where music is played live from 2:30 on into the evening and night. Order some tsiporo or a beer and enjoy. You can't miss it.
9
Too many visitors just think of Athens as a stop on the way to the islands. Spent a week there last spring, loved every minute of it. Athens is the place to be.
4
A great article! Bravo!
New Hotel, located in Plaka, a member of Design Hotels should be also listed as the one and only Contemporary hotel of the city!
One of my most enduring memories is standing on the Acropolis, blown away from knowing all who stood there before me - and tried to destroy it - and it still stands.
I love Greece and I love the Greek people aside from their suppression of women's rights. Time for that to end.
5
36 hours? Oh, I see what you did there. Clever.
1
Athens is an accessible, affordable, and interesting city. I found the Fresh Hotel, recommended in the article, to be a good deal, as it included a pretty good buffet breakfast, was within walking distance of the Acropolis and the Anthropological Museum, which is fantastic, and offered nighttime views of the Acropolis from its pool/bar perch on the top floor. You can get into museums for free on certain days (for us it was a Friday in mid-May). If you have time, go to Crete; the overnight ferry was affordable and comfortable.
Enjoy!
4
I felt very welcome in Greece. I want to go back. So many things to explore.
7
I once spent 3 days in Athens with a broken foot, lying in my hotel room where I had a view of the Acropolis via the mirror. I could hop my way to the roof top dining room where I then had a live view. That was the sum of my vacation there that time, and it still was glorious!
10
Perhaps the most important information of all for would-be Athens tourists: hire a driver; don't go near the taxi cabs - you WILL be scammed or otherwise cheated.
6
@jpzeller Absolutely right. Particularly coming in from the airport, tourists are routinely grossly overcharged. But just getting around town, the odds are a bit less than 50-50 that you'll be charged the proper - and modest - meter rate. For most purposes, the good, cheap bus system is the best way to get between neighborhoods.
1
@jpzeller
"...WILL be scammed..."? No lucky me, just back from Athens after taking three right on-the-money taxi rides there.
@jpzeller Nowadays, there are apps that can help you to hire a high rated taxi driver.
5
Splendit! You may just add that Hydra was the place of inspiration for Leonard Cohen.
4
Thanks for the window into your experience of Athens! We made up some of the record number of tourists this year too and, indeed, “luckily for us visitors, there’s plenty to experience in this storied city.” There are engaging activities for all interests.
We were sorry to miss some of the more modern sites you visited, but our visit to Aristotle’s Lyceum brought me to tears and walking through the ancient Agora brought the intellectual awakening of Classical Greece to life in a way beyond what my mind can do on its own.
I would highly recommend a trip to Athens! It is more affordable than many other European destinations. The people are warm, hospitable, and understandably proud. And, just thinking of the food makes my mouth water— so many kinds of fried cheese!
If you go, try to spend some time outside of the extreme bustle of the city— perhaps Delphi, Mycenae, or Epidaurus— all within a half day’s drive. Don’t miss the museums mentioned in the article, they are world-class and fascinating. Consider getting the City Pass to save money and hours in line (especially at the Acropolis) so that you can visit the archeological sites throughout the city.
We are a secular homeschooling family and spent a good part of the year preceding our trip studying the history, mythology, philosophy, architecture, art, and language of Greece— it was invaluable!
Thanks again for the great read, it sure makes me wish I was packing my backpack right now!
16
Oops, I meant the Combination Ticket, NOT the City Pass. You can purchase it at any of the included archeological sites.
3
@EForrest I totally agree with you about Artistotle's Lyceum, I also visited this summer and strolling through this site was a lovely moment. The Cycladic museum practically across the street is a also a gem.
7
Your writer hasn't really looked closely at the history of Athens. For centuries it was an insignificant village, until it became the capital of the Kingdom of Greece thanks to the interest King Ludwig of Bavaria took in Ancient Greece - the first Greek king was his son.
And it´s Koukaki, without a final S.
The Stavros Niarchos foundation may be the latest major building - and its rooftop garden, with a view of the Acropolis and the coast, is something to see - but the most interesting cultural events take place in the Stegi, the Onassis Foundation, which features a fantastic rooftop restaurant. Those two famous ship-owners are still competing for attention in Athens.
Oh, and you forgot to mention that Anafiotika is a part of Plaka.
5
@S North
Following emperor Theodosius’ edict against ‘paganism’, in the last year’s of the 4th century AD, Athens, which until then was considered the most important cultural center of Antiquity, was reduced to a provincial town [not quite a village]. However, throughout these centuries , it still exerted its magic, drawing notable visitors such as Lord Byron, Goethe, and Wordsworth among many, who would come to savor the birthplace of philosophy and drama.
1
When taking a break from Athens, I prefer to visit Agistri which is smaller and next Aegina for more peace and quiet, great beaches and tavernas. Similar price and a few minutes more on the ferry/hydrofoil.
3
I was just in Athens. I have one word for you. GO!!! You"ll love it. Just seeing the Acropolis all lit up at night, is worth every penny
15
It would be nice if "the Plaka area" -- cited in the caption of a fascinating photograph -- were actually mentioned in the text of the article itself. What IS the Plaka area? What is it known for? What are the ruins seen in the photo? How do you get there? How much time should you plan to spend there? Can you eat nearby?
Who knows? The writer doesn't say.
15
Plaka is one of the most expensive areas to live in the historic center of Athens, it can be found once you arrive at the metro stop Acropolis, as all it's streets are located around the Acropolis. It's a small dense area. A good guide book on Athens can give you more insight.
2
With only 36 hours to experience this astounding city that staggers the mind with its rich history, by necessity most things must be left out, or only touched upon, in the article. The plaka is a modern tourist district full of shops, restaurants, bars, and loads of interesting people. In the foreground of the photo we are looking at the ruins of Hadrian’s Library and we see the Acropolis in the background. Tips on the amount of time to spend there would all depend on the interests of the travelers. For our family (with the exception of the ruins) it was not at the top of our list, but some people love it. Athens is astonishing— visit if you can!
1
@JL Anafiotika, which is mentioned, is a part of Plaka, the area right underneath the Acropolis. One should not have to guess!
The tour of the Stavros Niarchos Center is wonderful and if you can do the English tour it is worth the effort. Agree that Koukaki is a good location for a hotel and lots of places to eat and drink.
5
I just came back from Athens (including Santorini) and you left out some important must go to spots in Athens:
Clumsies
The Bank Job
42 Barstronomy
Speakeasy
4
Wonderful. We go every year. I'd like to make it my home in retirement.
21