Singapore, for Those Who Aren’t Crazy Rich

Yes, Singapore has a nice mix of affordable and highly priced eateries. The food is good in general as Singaporeans are discerning eaters and the competition among eateries are brutal. It is not paradise but it certainly is a food mecca. Those food centers mentioned in CRA is very touristy and expensive. If you want good local food at affordable price check out this food blog http://ieatishootipost.sg/

Living here for the last 20 years. Took Singapore citizenship ten years back. Love the food, people and the quality of life.

You’re right — you don’t have to be crazy rich to enjoy Singapore. The street food and the Gardens by the Bay were particular favorites. The biodomes are amazing. We also enjoyed the light show at the Marina. And the trains are cheap and clean - you can easily get around town. PS I loved watching Crazy Rich Asians just because I got to see Singapore again ... the scenes with street food made my mouth water.

The article was interesting but incomplete and in some places just wrong. Virtually all street and highway signs and the amazing airport are only in English, the legal system is based on English law, the founder (Lee Kuan Yew) was educated in law at Cambridge University, the Chief Justice is of Indian heritage. Foreigners make up over 60% of the population. My son has lived there for 10+ years and plays on a multi-cultural softball team. 90% of the population own their home.The U.S. trains its air force and the U.S. Navy uses it as its port of call. Considering its remarkably diverse restaurants and shopping (Orchard Road makes Rodeo Drive look mediocre). In light of the huge international businesses and its remarkable state of the art infrastructure (everything works!)I don't think anyone would consider this city state "certainly Asian." It's really the United Nations but with a very warm climate. As the article seemed to suggest, well worth visiting.

We first went to Singapore in July, !976. We ate several times at Wing Seong's[ aka Fatty's] on Albert St. The street was closed to traffic at 6 PM and restaurants put their tables out on the street. Fatty's large circular tables held 8 diners on a share table basis. Wing Seong still exists today. Same tables for 8 on a share basis. Same al fresco dining but not on the street. Fatty's son, who is quite thin, now runs the restaurant. It's a few blocks away from its old location. Very good food, reasonably priced. Give it a Go!

Have to say I’ve avoided this CRA movie b/c it seems so superficial...something tells me there’s a moral at the end, but I’d rather see a movie about China that has more surprising depth...is even writing the word “Tiannamen” taboo?

Singapore is one of the world’s great food capitals (CNN: “How Singapore became Asia's culinary capital”). Singapore was ranked the “Best Street Food City” in 2013. Tiny Singapore has over 16,500 hawker stalls selling street food in hawker centers, coffee shops, cafeterias and food courts. By the 1970s, Singapore’s diverse food scene already had all the dishes on blogger Dr. Leslie Tay’s “Top Ten Things to Eat in Singapore: Hawker Food!” Singapore’s food does not reflect Peninsula Malaysia’s food, as Singapore was part of Malaysia for less than 2 years. The wealthy city Singapore was the political and economic center of British power in Southeast Asia from 1832 to 1963 (except 1942– 45) – this attracted the region’s best chefs and cooks to work in Singapore. As well, many of pre-1957 Malaya’s Chinese immigrants (who came on ships from China) disembarked in Singapore’s ports; they saw, ate and loved the food in Singapore; then these Chinese traveled overland to Malaya, and introduced Singapore’s foods into Malaya. Likewise, cooks from India, Indonesia and Malaysia brought foods into Singapore that over time were evolved into distinctive Singaporean versions of these dishes. The ratio of Hokkien Chinese is similar both in Singapore (40%) and Malaya (37%)> In Singapore many other ethnic Chinese innovated dishes like char kway teow (Teochew), wanton mee (Cantonese), chicken rice (Hainanese), yong tau fu (Hakka), laksa (Peranakan) into distinctive Singaporean versions.

First visited in 1972 passing thru on the hippy trail. A somewhat police state - drug searches de rigeur. Immigration took a dim view of long hair and any sign of wayward western youth. There was still a seafaring remnant wild side to the place exemplified by Bugis Street bars. 21st century and the place is near unrecognisable. Tiny remnants of the old remain as tourism precincts. Still an easy place for a stopover and a convenient hub to anywhere.

Read “There’s No Carrot in Carrot Cake” for a good picture of traditional Singaporean Chinese food.

Singapore is where I first ate Indian food off a banana leaf - memorable and good - wash your right hand only under the tap, sit down and be served by men walking around with stainless steel buckets, eat with your right hand only - in 1977 - in Komala Vilas - I believe it's still there at 76 Serangoon Rd since 1947 - there are other branches now - Avira warned me komalavilas.com.sg is a phishing website - but if the food is like I remember I'd be heading straight there if I was in town ... https://goo.gl/maps/F5GyiEZMB4x

Very informative article. Thank you.

Yet another place done in by the scourge of too much money.

CNN explains: “How Singapore became Asia's culinary capital”. Singapore was ranked the “Best Street Food City”. It has over 16,500 hawker stalls selling street food in hawker centers, coffee shops, cafeterias and food courts. By the 1970s, Singapore’s food scene was already diverse and bubbling. Singapore’s economy was the magnet which attracted the region’s best chefs and cooks – ever since the island state was center of British colonial power in Southeast Asia from 1832 to 1963. Singapore is at the crossroads of culinary traditions from around Asia and beyond. Singaporean food is a distinctive, diverse and delicious blend of various ethnic cultures and cuisines mingling and fusing with each other (Chinese, Malay, Indian, Peranakan, Eurasian, European, Japanese, American, Indonesian, Arab, Thai, Australian, etc.). Singapore’s food differs in flavor and character from Peninsula Malaysia’s food (Singapore was part of Malaysia for less than 2 years). Indeed, many of pre-1957 Malaya’s Chinese immigrants (who came on ships from China) first disembarked in Singapore’s ports. So these Chinese immigrants saw, ate and loved the food in Singapore -- and then brought Singapore’s foods into Malaya. Though both Singapore and Malaya have a similar ratio of Hokkien Chinese, Singapore's many other Chinese groups innovated dishes like char kway teow (Teochew), wanton mee (Cantonese), chicken rice (Hainanese), yong tau fu (Hakka), laksa (Peranakan) into distinctive Singaporean versions.

Thanks for the article. I’m going there in November and will mark the affordable places you have cited.

The truth is somewhere in the middle. Yes, it's not all Crazy Rich Asians but neither is Singapore a place of quaint poverty. If you're looking for that, you'll be disappointed. It's largely an affluent society. I've traveled to Singapore since the 1970s and seen the transformation from third world to first. It's an economic miracle. I've also had the opportunity to work there and have made lifelong friends. The people are neither rude, automated nor money obsessed. It puzzles me when people make sweeping generalizations like that. They want the same things we do, education for kids, safety, progress and to pay the bills. As with any other city, you have the good and the bad. Singapore today is far better than I've known it to be. It is truly cosmopolitan and self-confident. What I do find is that Singaporeans have become less deferential to white males but are nonetheless respectful, if it's mutual. I like what they've done to preserve the local culture and like the sub-cultures which have emerged from different neighborhoods. Tiong Bahru, Chinatown, Little India, Everton Park and also the gentrified parts of Geylang. The blend of architecture, food and modern amenities makes it very accessible for Western travelers. What I don't like? I struggle with the heat and humidity in Singapore. The government can be overbearing. I find the casinos cheesy and unnecessary. Make sure you plan ahead for meals, there are many fancy places which overcharge for mediocre meals.

I have visited Singapore twice once 35 years ago and again 5 years ago and neither time did Singapore impress me, the second time it was obvious how prosperous Singapore has become. That said it is a dull place to visit in spite of all the glitter and they enjoy showing their wealth in subtle and not so subtle ways. As in the other comment Malaysia offers much more diversity and if you have time Southern Thailand is worth the trip.

Singapore is a bore but Hong Kong swings!

Did the author watch the movie being quoted, or just using the name for clickbait? Pretty sure the Newton Hawker Center was featured in the movie as an important scene to give color to Singapore in the first 15 minutes of the film.

The article appears to be nothing more than a travelogue commissioned by Singapore's Tourism authority. Just north of Singapore is Peninsula Malaysia which offers more interesting and varied local food at more reasonable prices.

Anyone who thinks Singapore was ‘better’ 30-40 years ago, must have enjoyed the scenic aspect of poverty, is a white western male, and has never actually lived in Singapore. It is amazing. Singapore is my second home. I have lived there twice for a stretch, in the 80’s, and twenty years later. Now I return often. The HDB Buildings, tall high rise buildings with affordable apartments sold to Singaporeans, are built by the Housing Development Board. The objective was to turn the cultural mix into neighbors....and citizens who could thrive peacefully side by side. It worked. Singapore provides a smart model for the US’s unaffordable housing crisis, but the US isn’t that committed. The model has evolved, but the start was simple and affordable. Make the people homeowners and start them off in homes they can afford. (This goes against the US model: Take out the biggest mortgage you can get until you feel the pain, combine it with ‘’you’ll never be able to pay it back’’, so keep refinancing.) The HDB flats were sold empty, and I suspect they still are. You install a modest bathroom and kitchen at first and change it and improve it as you go through life. Your neighbors are all part of the Singapore patchwork. They don’t all look like you. They’ve become Singaporeans because of the housing model but also because the men learn to get along. Military service is compulsary at age 18 for 2 years. Start your visit at hdb.gov.sg and go to their amazing museum when you get there.

I've visited Singapore maybe half a dozen times over the past 20 years, most recently 3 years ago, and never found it expensive. There are affordable hotels in or near Little India as well as east of the center. And you have to work hard to get a bad meal. Food courts and food centers abound. If they're occupied by locals--easy to figure out who's who--the food will be fine. Singaporeans know good food and understand economic value: trust them. And it's great eating in a country that doesn't require drying the drops of water left by the dishwasher in the plate, out of fear of getting sick. All water is safe in Sing. Another respondent has commented on the the boring, money-grubbing nature of the population. If you stay in and visit modest parts of the city, you'll find the people to be friendly and interesting. Let people see that you respect and enjoy the place they live and they will almost always welcome you. And no, you won't be caned if you're caught with chewing gum. It's nice to know that you will never have the sickening feeling of lifting your foot only to discover strands of gluey gum attaching it to the sidewalk. And no dog poop either.

I love the food in a Singapore. I have not been for a few years but in the ‘90s it was a deal. By 2014 the Hawher centers were still a deal but lots of other favorites (chili crab, etc) were much more expensive.

Had a wonderful trip to Singapore 6 years ago. The food was divine, but I flew back 2 days early because I was sick of the commercial, over built environment. I went to Pulau Ubin and the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve (rescued from development when people realized that the rainforest in the whole country had been wiped out), the only places where there is actual nature. Everything else were over manicured gardens and catering to the aspirational bourgeoisie and the nouveau riche. It was sad and tragic. But definitely worth the culinary adventure.

I was in Singapore more than 20 years ago and I'm glad that I have not been back. Agreed with the commenter from the UK, the place was and still is boring, unnatural, plastic and souless. The food centers in Singapore appear clean but sterile and can't compare to street food in Thailand and Vietnam.

We travel to Singapore yearly to visit family stationed there (working for an American company whose Asia-Pacific headquarters Singapore hosts). Each visit to the city we discover something new, wonderful, memorable. I have been a constant admirer of Singapore's public transportation system, the envy of every city in the world. Recommended for anyone from the New York metropolitan area is a ride on Singapore's Downtown Line, the new all automated subway line which runs north to south and ends up at the Marina Bay Sands and Harborfront. For anyone who complains to the high heavens about the collapse of public transportation in our area, Singapore is a world gold standard to be treated as a role model. (And of course their phenomenal bus and taxi industry to round out the mass transit scene). Singapore is one of the "you have to see it at least once" cities in the world (another time we'll talk about the museums!!!).

Spent two and a half years in Singapore. In the Bedok area, feast at the East Coast Lagoon Food Village and the nearby JUMBO Seafood East Coast. Pepper crab!

As a merchant nariner working for the US Navy, a port call in Singapore was always looked forward to with great anticipation. Singapore is safe, clean, diverse, civilized, rowdy & boisterous. Overhauls and repairs always got done right, on time and on budget, which made a low-stress experience for the crew. The food, the shopping, and a computer geeks paradise at Sim Lim Square (there are merchant mariners who are geeks) ... Singapore has gotten so much right.

Good coverage. Whether you're living in or touring around Singapore, one shouldn't miss the 10 km hikes through MacRitchie reservoir where you might bump into a crowd of 20 monkeys, a wild boar, or get a view of monitor lizards swimming nearby or a python in the distance, all as a multitude of residents go for their morning couple walks or jogs down the well worn paths through the jungle. The zoo is one of the best in the world. Local food will surprise you; use the hawker center queues as a guide to the best. Best part is you can get from airport to city center via train for S$2.4, anywhere by bus, and walks from one end to the other end of the city center won't take long (though you may sweat a bit).

Isn't it true that Singapore criminalizes sex between men? I hope LGBQT people aren't spending their tourist dollars there. Section 377A ("Outrages on Decency"): "Any male person who, in public or private, commits, or abets the commission of, or procures or attempts to procure the commission by any male person of, any act of gross indecency with another male person, shall be punished with imprisonment for a term which may extend to 2 years."

Just be aware that no small amount of hawker court food also comes with MSG.

I was lucky enough to get to go to Singapore twice for work. My major non-work memory is the odd correlation between the price and quality of a meal. Generally, the cheaper the meal the tastier it was.

I think Hong Kog has better Chinese food than Singapore. Food in Hong Kong is affordable and taste good. There are more different kind of Chinese food from different regions. In Europe, London's China Town has the best Chinese restaurants. Of course if you wanted to eat good Chinese food you should go to China. Hong Kong still is the best place for visitors from different countries. The pearl of the East. I went to Hong Kong for the first time in 1939 and I am still visiting Hong Kong whenever I can. I love Hong Kong. Hong Kong is good place to live for both rich and poor.

This article does not do justice to Singapore. First, the people are uptight for a good reason: Singapore is a police state. Citizens are not free to criticize their government. The government’s political weapon of choice is the libel suit which can lead to bankruptcy. Gum chewing is illegal without a medical certificate of need. Littering is punished with a fine of S$1000 for a first offense. Jaywalking costs S$20. Not flushing a public toilet costs S$500. Every citizen is subject to drug testing. Those who test positive must undergo immediate drug rehabilitation. Drug dealers are hanged. Laws are strictly enforced. Remember the American Michael Fey who was cained for vandalism in 1994? Second, the only unique thing about the hawker stands in Singapore is that each vendor is required to operate as part of a group of vendors in a covered building for that purpose. They may not operate as street vendors as seen in other Asian cities. There are many small reasonably priced restaurants that offer quality ethnic food from all over the world, including Italian, Mexican, Indian, French, German, etc. in addition to Asian. Third, the city places a premium on decorum and cleanliness. Although there are poor people in Singapore, you do not see beggars nor homeless people on the streets. The rich people and tourists hang out in the high priced mega-malls on Orchard Road. Hoi Polloi shop at IKEA and and other less costly stores. English is the official language for administration.

It’s not the lifestyle but the low tax and “stability” that attracts the ultra-wealthy.

I saw "Crazy Rich Asians" with a friend. Our favorite scene is near the film's beginning when the lead characters are sampling foods from various vendors. Now I have a better understanding of that scene and where they were.

How nice, this quaint little article of a country most Americans couldn’t even point out on a map, let alone pronounce. Very succinct, but again, as always, the same problem I have with ALL these types of articles. From a very western centric point of view (talk of an entire country, cuisine and culture in relation to a Hollywood movie), and at best, VERY reductionist.

Or just pop across the causeway for the real deal as the producers of CRA did for their film.

Been to Singapore many times, the city was much better 20-30 years ago than what it has become now, totally boring, unnatural, plastic and souless. It's still a beautifully kept and managed city sadly the people are way too robotic, money obsessed and boring. 20 years ago Singapore wasn't so expensive and felt much more natural ..... People were way more friendlier and normal but now it's just a depressing miserable place where everyone works just for money and the high cost of living has made them greedier than ever before... And they are all so unhappy living in Singapore that they escape at the first given opportunity to travel. Singapore is far from the perfect city, it's full of imperfections rather... Sadly all over the world greed and competitiveness have taken over society and ruined all values, there should be a work/life balance everywhere.

Well-written article, and very readable even for a resident like me.

The food in Singapore is essentially the food in the whole region of Malaysia and Singapore (which it was port of from 1957 t0 1965). Curioulsy enough, in the 70s t0 early 80s the food in Singapore was not as diverse as it s today - the ethnic CHinese food was heavy on Hokkien style food (Hokkien is a major Chinese dialect group in Singapore). These days, the food reflects a more Peninsular Malaysia food diversity.