For Roy Wood Jr., Alabama Is Painful History, New Hope and Home

Sep 19, 2018 · 65 comments
Mitzi (Oregon)
wow...brave man...love you on the daily show
John (San Francisco)
I noticed "... from the South to California..." a couple of times regarding racial violence. I get that acts of racist terror happened outside of Alabama, and that racism is institutionalized across the country, but Alabama still seems bent on calling that "heritage." Face it. Had it not been for the young girl thing, heavily Christian Alabama would have sent another far-right racist homophobe to Washington. Until Alabama can actually demonstrate change outside of two museums and a surge of (rightful, finally) black representation in majority black counties, I'll continue to proudly say "I escaped from Alabama."
Russell Maulitz MD (Philadelphia)
I sure hope Roy gets to read some of these comments on his wonderful article. I grew up in Birmingham--or, rather, "over the mountain" in the then lily-white suburb of Mountain Brook. But felt a natural affinity for Birmingham proper, which was much more interesting, funky, and where my father worked. This article gives a real flavor for what's been going on actually for some decades in that fascinating place that had to struggle out from under the horrendous Bull Connor-era reputation it earned at the height of the troubles of half a century ago. All you have to look at are the great restaurants and integrated public and private schools that've tried hard to transcend. On the other hand "over the mountain," when I visit, still seems an enclave where the power khaki-attired white folks play WASP golf together. I think Baptist churches still break down along color lines don't they? Anybody who can update me on this please reply here. So it's a mixed bag. Great new people arriving in Jefferson and Shelby Counties. But still much evidence, especially out of the latter, on voting-rights suppression. Roy I want you to be right about everything you say. Optimistically, we can agree it's a work in progress. but the progress part is very real.
John (San Francisco)
@Russell Maulitz MD why do you think new people and current residents are moving to Shelby County and South Jefferson County instead of to/remaining in Birmingham? The more things change, the more they remain the same.
Stewart Dansby (Birmingham)
I enjoyed Mr. Woods’s article. However, it’s frustrating growing up all my life with The NY Times’s slogan saying, “All the news that’s fit to print” when it continues to choose “selective journalism.” These facts about Birmingham were omitted: *B’ham is home to 22 hospitals. Since 1969, UAB has transplanted more kidneys than any institution in the world. *B’ham is home to the main Porsche Sport Driving School, and the Guiness Book of World Records “World’s Largest Motorcycle Museum”, and largest collection of Lotus sports cars. *Zagat rated B’ham as “THE Hot New Food City in the U. S.” *B’ham is home to the “Best Restaurant in the U.S.” (2018 James Beard Foundation Awards): Highlands Bar and Grill...AND, the “Best Pastry Chef in the U.S.” *B’ham’s Railroad Park beat out NYC’s HighLine Park as the “Best outdoor Public Space in the U.S.” *B’ham’s “Innovation Depot” was rated the “#1 Business Incubator” in the world, based on the success of its graduates. (It also is the third largest incubator in the U.S.). *B’ham is “The Greenest City in America” based on dedicated acres of green space per capital. B’ham’s Red Mountain Park, at more than 1,500 acres, is nearly twice the size of NYC’s Central Park.
wanderson (New Jersey)
@Stewart Dansby While all the things Mr. Dansby says were omitted maybe true, Roy Wood's article focused more on the "small" positive cultural changes observed, from the pure segregated, racist history of Alabama and Birmingham to new blood and status of black Americans who can and are participating in the discussion and dialog of Alabama's and Birmingham's future. Those like Mr. Dansby prefer to use other topics, even worthwhile in other contexts, to skirt or dismiss the vile history of slavery and racism of the State, even up to Today, in hope that these negative but harsh realities will either be forgotten or somehow relegated to minor importance.
BrooklynDogGeek (Brooklyn)
What a great read! And especially interesting as I just road tripped from NYC to New Orleans with a few days stop in Birmingham mostly to see the EJI museum and memorial. I've taken enough road trips south to learn not to be surprised when I love a place I have preconceptions about. But still, I was surprised at how progressive and hopping Birmingham was and how stunning Montgomery--that architecture!--was. And I had a similarly profound reaction to the museum. LIke a punch to the gut and deeply painful. I also had some fantastic meals in both cities and loved Birmingham's fantastic farmer's market. I thought we had great produce at our NYC markets, but this was a whole 'nother level. I'll definitely go back.
SrSkeptic (Alabama)
Three things. (1) As a fellow Alabama native, I thank Roy Wood for his message of hope about our native state. (2) I offer some practical tips about visiting the Peace and Justice Memorial. Go in March or April, or October or November, not in August as we did. The Memorial is an outdoor experience and the outdoors of the South is not air conditioned. Also, there is a lot of walking. If someone in your party has mobility problems they will probably need a mobility scooter or at least a rollator with a seat for resting and you need to bring these with you as only manual push wheetchairs are offered at the Memorial. (3) I attended college in Birmingham from 1963-1967. There is a world of difference in Birmingham of that era and Birmingham today. But world class restaurants, and better race relations are not the only things that are different. The steel mills were still going at almost full blast in 1963 with no pollution regulations -- making the air almost unbreathable on many days. Ultimately the demise of the blast furnaces and steel mills and the rise of the EPA helped Birmingham become a much more liveable place. Now major employment in Birmingham is in much cleaner jobs of medicine, education, finance, publishing, etc. It was a long and painful transition from a manufacturing economy to a service economy, but beware a return to manufacturing and heavy industry without an effective EPA!
Mary (NYC)
Alabam You’ve got the rest of the Union to help you along What’s going wrong?
maire (NYC)
Interesting that most of the article is about the new lynching museum which is NOT in Birmingham but Montgomery - the original home of the civil rights movement.
Over the years I've planned many of my trips around the USA by reference to National Parks. Two years ago I read "Deep South" by Paul Theroux. It reminded me that "the south" is about the one remaining area I hadn't been to. So, in May 2018, we headed to Nashville (on the then new BA nonstop from London). We worked our way down through Huntsville, Birmingham, Tuskeege, Montgomery, Selma and Meridian to New Orleans and then back though Lafayette, Baton Rouge, Natchez, Vicksburg, Hot Springs, Memphis, Paris, Paducah, Bowling Green, Mammoth Cave and back to Nashville. We visited all the museums mentioned by Roy as well as the Lorraine Motel in Memphis. We also visited some plantation homes (and their city counterparts). I came away with a number of memories. I think we were both surprised by the trees; big, deciduous and everywhere. The people we met were (as always in the USA) friendly and helpful. In particular the gentleman and his wife who picked up in their tow truck when a tyre on our Avis car went bang (literally, we heard the bang and the back of the car dropped). But, in the end I think the one place we visited that had the greatest effect on me was the National Memorial for Peace and Justice in Montgomery. As a young man I had seen the TV reports (yes, even in the UK) about some of the events like the march from Selma to Montgomery and understood the injustice involved but I had never really appreciated the violence involved.
BrooklynDogGeek (Brooklyn)
@edward. harrison1 As an American (a New Yorker) who loves taking long, meandering road trips to New Orleans a couple times a year, your comment makes me really happy. Each trip down I take a different route so I can experience different cities. You hit some good ones.
Ellen Portman (Bellingham, Washington)
Thanks Roy for writing about Alabama. I grew up in Jackson, Ms in the 1960's and now live in Washington State. In my travels and even now,I find myself also doing PR for the south. I have practiced saying, "I"m from Mississippi." with pride rather than apology in my voice. The south is changing and I find this amazingly exciting each time I return. I encourage folks who have never ventured into those parts to do so, to experience the richness, both in pain and in delight, in the region.
Ichabod Aikem (Cape Cod)
Roy Wood, Jr. not only are you my favorite comedian on the Daily Show, but you are also a mighty fine writer, your metaphor of secondary fires quite apt for rekindling of racism unless we go to the original sources. Although I’ve driven through Alabama on the way to the Panhandle, your descriptions make me interested to return. And don’t forget the best to come out of Alabama is your wit!
john (Baltimore)
"But the fact that the museum even exists shows a willingness to confront the horrible past." Sorry Roy Moore, but you make it seem as if white people created the Legacy Museum to begin addressing its immorality for supporting white supremacy and the system of segregation and it's practice of lynching. EJI created the museum to boldly force white people to deal with this fact and to support African Americans and its allies to never forget.
Matt (Birmingham)
@john Do you mean Wood, Jr because Roy Moore didn't write this article.
Nina B (NC)
@john I gleaned from Roy’s article that the very fact that this museum and the memorial are located in the heart of Montgomery, Alabama - built by the EJI over a spot where a major slave trading warehouse stood - is a testament to the (slow!) beginnings of efforts of the white people of Alabama to try to understand and face their heavy role in a horrific and very cruel history. Thank you, Roy. You wrote a beautiful and heartfelt article that does not condemn, that makes me a little less ashamed of the state in which I was born and raised. I wrote you on Twitter after your appearance on Fresh Air, NPR, and you actually took the time to write back. You rock.
Lisa C (West Palm Beach)
I encourage, urge, each person outside of the black race, to walk away from the memorials with a promise to self to learn more about the race. Getting emotionally choked up is a welcome experience. However, until we can live respectfully among each other, without racist stereotypes, it's just an experience. Life is daily. Prejudice is deep. Ask a black women, why... Ask a black man why... If you ask out of simple curiosity rather than accusation, the conversation will be life changing. No reasonable person wants to hang on to anger or be labeled as such. No person wants to fear modern-day lynching (stand your ground/police killing) at every turn. So, start a conversation, you may be pleasantly pleased where it may lead.
Siouxiep (Salem Oregon)
This was beautiful. Thank you.
rajo (Boulder, CO)
This type of optimistic text is so needed to publicize how change is being done to repair past wrongdoings the correct way. I'm so reassured that there is a city in the south working to demonstrate for other cities in the south how to productively steer away from deep-rooted racial issues. But I'm also glad there is a city in the United States to demonstrate for the rest of the country how to not overdo those reparations and to fix them substantively instead.
BH (Maryland)
Who said anything about reparations? There are no reparations to black folk being given in Alabama or anywhere in the USA.
Ceece (Chicago, IL)
Brilliant op-ed from one of my favorite Daily Show correspondents. I've been wanting to see the National Memorial for Peace and Justice and now will add the Legacy Museum to the list.
sfdphd (San Francisco)
I enjoyed this essay. I have been impressed with Roy Wood Jr. on the Daily Show and this essay shows he has a broader range of talent than just comedy. If you haven't seen him on the Daily Show, for a good introduction, do a search on You Tube for "The Best of Roy Wood Jr. on the Daily Show" which is a compilation of some of his best pieces.
James (Maryland)
I will be just fine if I live my entire life and never set foot in Alabama or Mississippi.
sylvia (tanaka)
or georgia. was there. never want to go back. evoked terrible feelings of opression.
Claire (Birmingham, AL)
@James That's a pity. I thought this article was highlighting that change cannot be insular. Cultural evolution requires facing adversity and being an beacon for progress. I will make no excuses for truly terrible behavior or practices from state leadership to everyday citizens, but the idea of remaining in silo is equally unacceptable. None of this requires a visit from you of course, but if you're convinced of your geographical superiority, I ask what work you've led in Maryland to inspire a better community?
Randy (Brazil )
@James I lived in Huntsville seven years and New York City for three years. I go to Huntsville regularly and still have family in the area. I saw more overt racism in my first year in New York than I saw in seven years in Huntsville. After growing up for several years in Miami, I attended my first integrated school in Huntsville in 1969. If you want to experience racism, you could probably do no bette than go to Boston, the Cradle of Liberty. I say all this not to criticize any one region, but to point out that racism should not be considered confined to any one region in the US. It permeates society and can only be dealt with effectively when that is acknowledged.
Darrell Tucker (Birmingham)
Great article. The Alabama Theater (pictured) is on 18th Street North (not south).
Tom (Tuscaloosa AL)
Odd that the photo of the grand Alabama Theatre is really of the side entrance, the delivery door, not the main entrance on First Avenue, the marquee side.
Robert (Alabama )
@Tom There where trucks and construction in front of the Theater. I think the new sign looks nice.
Alan Chaprack (NYC)
My father - a white geezer at the time - got me interested in Negro Leagues baseball and to know that the Barons - the team of a very young Willie Mays - are thriving makes this baseball fan happy, indeed. Now, as I've become that aforementioned white (non-Trump voting) geezer, I'm not that hopeful for Alabama or a couple of its neighbors. Had Roy Moore not had those accusations hanging over his head, no way Doug Jones would've won that election; Alabama would've sent to Washington another racist, homophobic climate change denying put the fear of god into you Republican. Its white underclass, as it does in Mississippi, Arkansas, South Carolina - you name it - will keep voting against its interests for fear that people of color will somehow destroy that oh so wonderful life of working three jobs without health insurance and on occasion having to decide paying the electric bill of buying Hamburger Helper. Until someone who looks like them comes along and convinces the under-educated poor whites down south - and everywhere else for that matter - that Bulworth - yeah, that fictional guy - was right when he said, perhaps inartfully, that "White folks have more in common with colored folks that they do with rich folks," ain't nothing gonna change.
Laura Murphey (Birmingham, AL)
@Alan Chaprack You are incorrect in your assessment of my city. In 2016 Jefferson County (the county which includes Birmingham), a predominantly white county (though not over whelmingly so), voted for Hilary Clinton and elected the nine black African American female judges mentioned in the article, as well as the six who were already on the bench. Your heavy handed judgements and prejudice against the South pretty much ignore the complexities which are the crux of this excellent article. It truly captures what is going on down here.
Alan Chaprack (NYC)
@Laura Murphy I mentioned Birmingham only as it is the home to the Barons. My comment was about Alabama and its neighbors. If I am wrong about anything I wrote about the state, please have at it.
From Where I Sit (Gotham)
The underlying problem is that they do not see themselves as poor but rather, to quote D’Toqueville, “temporarily embarrassed millionaires.” The disconnect from (generations of) reality is the issue.
Thomas B (St. Augustine)
Many union boilermakers from Birmingham and Muscle Shoals came up to Chicago to work out of our hiring hall. Good hands and good union people. And being union isn’t easy in a state so hostile to workers. But who cares, as long as there are good restaurants and craft beers, right? Restaurants are the churches of the new bourgeois (did I spell that right?).
dawn (Stockton, NJ)
Thank you for the chance to walk alongside Roy Wood Jr. as he explores, with quiet dignity, the horror as well as the hopefulness in his home state.
priceofcivilization (Houston)
First, Roy, it's great to read something so serious from you. I always love to see you on TV, where you're always funny. I start to smile before you even say anything. Second, the history of racism in Alabama is sickening. But they should get credit for being more honest about it than many other states. These museums are very much like the truth commissions of some African and South American countries, and also remind me of the greater honesty of Germany about the Holocaust compared to most other countries that willingly (even happily) participated in mass murder. One thing Roy left out: the top restaurant in the country , according to the James Beard Foundation, and the top pastry chef, were both from Birmingham this year.
Let the Dog Drive (USA)
We have both the sites you so eloquently discuss on our list of important places to visit and soon. We will add your food recommendations too. Alabama has a great ambassadors in you.
Hoss (Black Mountain, NC)
I spent most of my adult life living in Birmingham and worked hard to try and make it a better place. After seeing only incremental improvements, I decided to leave. Birmingham is indeed way better that it was just a few years ago but it is still within a state having zero interest in supporting any kind of progressive agenda in the city or anywhere else. There is no home rule so, for example, when Birmingham tried to raise its minimum wage, that initiative was killed by the Alabama Legislature. Raise the minimum wage in Birmingham? No way. The state is incredibly poor and yet an Auburn University professor emeritus of history, Wayne Flint, once said the only thing Alabama is willing to spend an unlimited amount of money on is football. So, by all means visit Birmingham if you are so inclined. It is one of those cities that seems pretty decent if you are just passing through. Living there is another matter.
Tricia (Birmingham)
Thank you for your thoughtful piece. I relocated to Birmingham from DC back in 2003 and was concerned about the dark history that clung to the city. I have been pleasantly surprised by the kindness and hospitality of the people here and their desire to improve this great city. Are there still a few holdouts on both sides? Absolutely, but you are correct in your assessment that the city is slowly moving in the right direction. AND the city has fabulous restaurants. Thank you!
@Tricia "Are there still a few holdouts on both sides?" Umm..one side was the hatred from white racists direct by law and force against it's black citizens. So-what are you calling the other side?
BH (Maryland)
I was thinking the same thing.
Laura Newman (Birmingham, AL)
I was born at St. Vincent’s hospital in Manhattan and lived in Brooklyn for my entire life before moving to Birmingham last April. Next month, I will open my first business (a bar). Bar #2 is already in the works. I’m 29. The author is correct - Birmingham is a hidden gem as well as an incredible place for young entrepreneurs, particularly in the food & beverage industry. Not only is the cost of living to quality of life ratio insane, tax and other economic incentives plentiful, and real estate abundant; the city is home to an incredibly vibrant food scene. Adjusted for population, we have a huge number of James Beard Award nominees and winners, an accelerating rate of new bars and restaurants opening, and Meredith recently moved their food content division here. People who live here appreciate good food and the hard work that goes into creating it. While it’s certainly different from Brooklyn, I love being able to pursue my dreams in a place where doing so is far more fiscally responsible (and possible) than in a larger market. I love the incredible sense of support and community and how I was welcomed here with open arms. I love getting to interact with people from different backgrounds and with different viewpoints, and for us both to come away from those interactions with greater empathy and understanding. I hope that articles like this will encourage more people to visit Alabama and realize that this state is more than a stereotype. Great things are happening here.
Deb H. (Los Angeles)
I've visited my hometown of Birmingham and noticed wonderful changes in recent years. There is also a thriving arts culture, which is always a good sign -- Sidewalk Film Festival and Red Mountain Theater Company are building wonderful national reputations.
Stavros Panopoulos (New York City)
This moved me. In my youth, (late 50’s early 60’s), I spent a a lot of time living with relatives in Birmingham and Mobile and I remember the South the author describes. Some have compared the Civil Rights legislation to surgery and recovery; that is to say, with the legislation our country succeeded in the operating room but then failed in the rehab.
Mollycoddler (Stockholm WI)
My husband and I visited the Museum and Memorial, the Equal Justice Initiative's bookstore and other civil rights sites in Montgomery, including the Freedom Rides Museum. Lordy, what we found out we didn't know and hadn't ever been taught. The trip did not feel burdensome. It felt the way you feel when you start to understand something. And the Memorial is so beautiful. The people were friendly, the riverfront was lovely, the food was great. The Equal Justice Initiative's website is also worth a visit.
Andreas (Atlanta, GA)
I like the optimism but have mixed feelings about the low expectations that seem to underline a lot of this optimism. Starting from such a low spot hardly seems worth celebrating to me.
From Where I Sit (Gotham)
“A journey of a thousand miles...” and all that.
Beth (Louisiana )
Thank you for sharing. As a native Alabamian, I'm proud of the changes in my home state. No doubt, there are so many more changes to make. These times have taught us much about who we are and what we have chosen to ignore or pretend doesn't exist. I am hopeful that we will continue to tear down walls and extinguish the hidden fires. Truth will continue to be revealed, it's our choice whether we accept it and move toward the future with change.
Dr. Robert Centor (Birmingham)
Living in Birmingham, Roy is generally spot on. One thing that many newcomers notice that in Birmingham people look you in the eye and smile. We live in a very friendly city. We have the same open-mindedness and prejudice that every state has. We are improving every year. Come and visit. Have some BBQ and then eat at a 5 star James Beard award winning restaurant for dinner. Go to the Civil Rights Museum. There is much to enjoy in the Magic City.
Susan (Las Vegas)
The land of my parents seemed so hateful to me as a child. I could not wait to leave Alabama and I do have a hard time defending my home state. When I go back to visit I try to see the good things that are happening there. Many people are working hard to bring Alabama into the Future. With time, patience and a lot of Love there may come a day when my grandchildren will think that Alabama is a fine place to live.
DC (desk)
Two companies in northern Alabama are on my favorites list: Alabama Chanin and the Little River Sock Mill. Their stories and products epitomize slow and sustainable fashion with a definite sense of adventure.
Lee (Santa Fe)
Thanks for much of this progress should be immediately extended to state and local officials who went way out on a financial limb to induce Mercedes Benz to build a factory in Tuscaloosa County, leading to a wave of subsequent investment and thousands of quality jobs.
Jessica (Atlanta)
Thank you, Roy Wood. I am from Marion, Alabama. It's difficult to reconcile the history we made with my love for the land and rhythms of the Black Belt. The memorial and museum in Montgomery and Roy Moore's defeat are powerful testaments that Alabama is not the sum of racism. There will always be bigots and racists, neither of which are exclusive to the South, but victory lies with the louder chorus. I am with you. I like what I am hearing from home these days. Keep the faith.
wanderson (New Jersey)
@Jessica Please remember Jessica - although you might be inclined to conveniently forget, that Judge Roy More lost to Democrat Doug Jones by a very thin margin. This means - ostensively, that about half of Alabama voters retain racist supporting sentiments. That is an undeniable truth.
John (Atlanta)
wishful thinking... I sat in a restaurant not far from Birmingham patronized by an all white clientele... I heard nothing that suggested to me things are changing... in fact, the sentiments were hardening... infused with conspiracy theories, trump, and god... it was depressing and frightening... cry Alabama and nation...
JG (Alabama)
Next time, try one of our fabulous restaurants in the city. you will see and hear a much different clientele and conversation.
Deb H. (Los Angeles)
So the author's extensive research is deemed wishful thinking because of one anecdotal experience you had?
Laura (AL)
Birmingham is a very blue dot in a very red sea.
The final sentence ends with these words "very few places will leave you with a sense of optimism for what’s to come." It can be understood in several senses. It's a warning to Americans that "very few places will leave you with a sense of optimism for what’s to come." Indeed.
BH (Maryland)
Profound.
Susan Cauldwel (Spring Lake)
Thank you, Roy. I'm a white woman from NJ who has never been inclined to visit Alabama, mostly because of its racist history. I've read about the Memorial for Peace and Justice, but did not know about the Legacy Museum. Your hopeful attitude about your state has changed my outlook. Thank you.
Nina B (NC)
@Susan Cauldwel you will be pleasantly surprised!
Mary Handy (Huntersville NC)
Thank you Roy! This was well written and I appreciate your hopefulness. I feel like we are living in dark and depressing time in our country's history but, it is not as horrific as what has happened in the past.
Appreciating (WA)
Thank you Roy Wood for this uplifting piece. Thanks to the NYT for publishing it. A little hope for this dark time.