Sadly, a lot of this animosity towards single woman who are alone can be felt in many areas of major cities of Europe today, especially at night. Stay on the well lit paths and do not linger. BTW it has nothing to do with the way a woman is dressed. If she is simply alone she is easily targeted.
8
I loved this dispatch. But I find it interesting that many men (and some women) attempt to invalidate Jada and her friends' experience of harassment as either somehow their own fault ("respect the culture"), as no worse than elsewhere, or just not true. I traveled alone internationally for work regularly in the 1990's in Asia and Europe. Jada and her friends' experience sounds very familiar twenty years later. I was once even treated with obvious intentional rudeness by a female server in the hotel where I was staying because, as I finally discovered through conversation with her, she assumed I was a prostitute because I was talking to different men (from the same company) at breakfast who were staying there also. Sometimes the harassment amounted to no more than being asked repeatedly at security checkpoints by male airport employees if I was alone. This could be simple curiosity but it starts to feel ominous when repeated over and over as it was - is there a reason they want to know? I confirmed it was because I was a woman when I asked all the men working for my same company whether this question was routine in their experience. It wasn't. Other times it was much more offensive than that. It changes the experience of travel significantly and dims the delight. And yes it happens here too but some places are definitely worse. Those who don't have to deal with it, why not just consider yourselves lucky and skip the smug judgments?
47
Having spent 3 months in Morocco while in college, I would not describe Tangier-nor any of the cities I visited- to be 'lawless'. I had a wonderful homestay sister in Tangier who was quite modern and took us out to dinners and through the winding the Medina. We experienced perhaps two 'holas' from men the entire 3 months in Tangier, Fes and Marrakech. I know aspects of Morocco's culture reflect the country's Muslim heritage, and with it particular gender norms, but from my understanding from the women I met and lived with during my stay, as well as my own experience, woman are able to dress and move about without overt danger or harassment.
3
Thank you Jada.
Your writing brings back many good memories for me of one of the most beautiful and exotic places I have ever visited, and I travel a good deal.
As for the “harassment, all I can say is that I gues some things do not change even after 40+ years.
5
Interesting article and I traveled as a solo female to Marrakesh a few years ago. I dressed extremely conservatively (baggy blouses and pants), stayed in a riad in the medina run by a British couple and learned a few words of Arabic.
To get an overview of the city and a better understanding of local culture, I hired a Moroccan female guide for a half day on my first day of four in Marrakesh.
Other than a few comments no worse than what you would get from a U.S. construction site, I had no problems whatsoever. The Moroccan people are hospitable, kind and wanting to help. I even had several people trying to help me in the post office and between English, French and Arabic, I was able to work out what line I should be in. I also got lost one afternoon in the medina and several locals came to help me.
While I can't speak for Tangier, Marrakesh was amazing and one of the great experiences of my life to date. I want to go back.
13
Our second European trip with our children was two weeks in Spain in 1983. We were based in Torremolinos for our second week.
We got up early one morning and drove to Algeciras to take a ferry to Tangiers for the day. Things were fine at first since we followed the tourist office advice to hire a blue Mercedes taxi with a driver who spoke passable English. After a good orienting tour he brought us back to the Medina.
Our children included two girls aged 14 and 15. We were experienced travelers but hadn't thought about what would happen in a Muslim country when two fit American teenage girls were walking around in short shorts. The attention got so bad that we found relief in the restaurant of a first class hotel ---- something that my wife and I never did. After lunch, we headed back to the ferry to return to Spain.
7
It's refreshing to read travel reporting that isn't about creating escapist fantasies. So much of what you read in travel publications glosses over the realities of street harassment and crime. Sure, you can debate whether Ms. Yuan did everything by the book in her visit, but her report is far more of a reader service than you usually get. It didn't especially make me want to visit Tangier but I am curious about Chefchaouen now.
17
I traveled for a bit in Morocco as an 18 year old with a female friend. The male harassment there is relentless. We were constantly groped, cat called, cornered etc. Be prepared. It's been ten years and I'm not eighteen anymore, so maybe it's gotten better, but traveling to Morocco really does mean being prepared for constant male harassment.
19
I have not been reading all of this series. I appreciated this one because Jada Yuan told her real experience, and not some glorified picture. And it was the experience of a woman traveler - not even alone, because she had friends with her. I see from the comments that many people suggest that if you dress in accordance with local custom you won’t be harrassed. But why should you be harrassed if you dress inappropriately? There is a difference between being asked nicely to leave a church if you are dressed inappropriately and having strange men on the street harrass you. If they don’t like the way you are dressed, they needn’t look. It might be considered poor taste to walk around there in shorts if you are a woman but it never justifies harassment.
11
Haven't been to Morocco in years unfortunately. This was a good reminder. Even for men, the continual harassment by other men in the street made for a lasting impact. Either pushing for a handout or selling themselves as guides or otherwise.
But I'd go back in a minute for the other experiences like some of the ones described here.
And the food and local wine are fabulous.
2
I had a wonderful trip to Morocco a few months ago. I'm female, and tried my best to fit into the culture -- trousers, long shirt to cover my arms and bottom (though no scarf), absolutely the epitome of sexy when strolling through the medina or souk. Every man I interacted with was an absolute gentleman. If you feel the need to uncover your knees and shoulders, do it in a westernized hotel, not in the souk. Respect the culture.
7
The Jews left en masse "thanks to the founding of Israel". To be specific: Morocco, like most Arab nations, punished its Jews for being Jews when Israel was created: Riots in Oujda and Djerada broke out. Moroccans killed 44 of their Jews and wounded many more. That was not enough: Moroccans also boycotted its Jewish businesses. Jews had to flee. Morocco is one of the least unfriendly states to Jews, but that is not saying much. Hence the need for Jews to have the tiny sliver of homeland that they have. The author of this article used words that blame the foundation of Israel, rather than Moroccans' bigotry towards Jews, for the massive emigration of Jews from the country. The reverse is true: Bigotry is what makes Israel necessary.
18
In my recent experience, and in the experiences of my many Jewish clients that adore Morocco, this comment could not be further from the truth. There are active Jewish communities to this day in Morocco, older synagogues that are no longer in use are lovingly cared for by Muslim neighbors, and the King of Morocco draws his advisors from the Jewish community. Casablanca is home to the only Jewish Cultural museum in all of the Islamic world. Judaism predates Islam in Morocco and the two religions appear to get along very well during my many travels to this fascinating monarchy.
14
Culturally ignorant with regard to dress. Also, on your next stop, to avoid additional cultural missteps, please note that there has been no "West Germany" since the reunification 28 years ago.
5
Decades ago I did psychological research for Peace Corps and developed “cultural sensitivity training” programs to prepare Volunteers for life in third-world countries.
Most female Volunteers were horrified at having to adjust their behavior and dress to fit local expectations, especially in Moslem countries. The common men on the streets of big or small cities often went a little batty when confronted with American or European women who displayed too much arm or leg, which was (mis)interpreted as a sign of being available (a prostitute).
Not much has changed in most of these countries in the decades since, and women, especially those without male companions, may still experience unwanted comments, advances and even touching (hissing was often aimed at LGBTQ folks). None of this is news, so it is surprising that Ms. Yuan and her researcher back in New York somehow missed such basic information.
A Few Tips:
Someone at the airport, bus station or train station will offer to be your guide around town—in return for cash from you or kickbacks from the vendors she/he takes you to. However nice this person may seem, for her/him you are a mark.
Dressing modestly is usually a good idea; why look for trouble?
Stay at higher-end hotels and eat at better restaurants, where foreign/unaccompanied females are less of a rarity.
Avoid wearing valuable jewelry in public generally, or religious jewelry (crosses, stars of David) in Moslem countries.
Do lots of research before traveling.
5
For all of you who say "Dress appropriately, respect the culture that you are in", tell me why there is no reciprocity? They're so offended by seeing a woman's knees, but have no problem with unrelenting harassment. Is that not a deeper sign of disrespect?
And another form of reciprocity would be welcome. As disturbed as they might be at seeing a woman's uncovered head, that's how disturbed I am at seeing a woman in a burqa.
29
This destination sounds amazing and I long to visit Morocco. I have traveled alone as a woman quite often and recently to N. Africa/middle east. I generally will join tours or groups so that I can see the sites, but not alone. In the evenings, I stay in or very near to the hotels. I generally stay in luxury hotels or pre-arrange car service. As a businesswoman and leader, I've learned to flex my "presence", meaning there are times when I play stupid or docile, and times when I exude the weight of my inner security. I always try to learn the basic polite words in the local language (hello, good-bye, please, thank you). I have also found it helpful to not "give-away" what I am and where I'm from, but I generally find being American is a positive. I study and research any destination extensively and learn from natives, columns, and experiences like those shared here. Thank you for sharing and I hope my comments are useful to someone, too.
4
I traveled throughout Morocco with my family about eight years ago. When I was with my husband or with a local guide, I never received any unwanted attention, but whenever I was by myself for short errands or walks, I felt uncomfortable due to what seemed to be angry stares coming from the men.
12
Not sure I need to add another voice to this discussion...but 40 years ago, I travelled with a woman friend to Tangier. On the ferry ride over from Malaga, a French business man we spoke with warned us to be careful, "...your life isn't worth *that*..." and snapped his fingers. Auspicious advice. We spent 3 days being harrassed, this wearing trousers, no makeup, no tight clothing, and sorry, a lot of this is blaming the victim, to say it's our fault for being menaced at every turn. We were followed by groups of 10-15 men at times, were definitely not going to leave the hotel at night. Across the road from the hotel was a glorious beach. Except...there were no women, only men there. We didn't set foot on the strand. I can only think that perhaps if we were travelling with a man, we might have made out better, or if we could have gotten away from the terrible terrible place...but I would not recommend Tangier for ANY solo female traveller unless she is unusually intrepid. It was without a doubt my worst travel experience in a lifetime of modestly-dressed travel. This was not my fault.
28
Well, I don't know. I lived in Morocco for almost two years and experienced various levels of "harassment", also adoration for my baby, feeling slightly unsafe when running and conversely fine, etc. It kind of depends on the situation and the person/s involved -- like anywhere. I definitely experienced catcalls and "harassment" years ago when I lived in DC. Moroccan women get it too -- it's not just limited to Westerners.
I will say, though, that as a Western woman, unless you are a Muslim, you don't need to cover your head. You don't even need to do this in Saudi Arabia most of the time. I am always surprised that people even ask the question but then again since I lived there I learned quickly that you are not expected to fully assimilate but just to be mindful and considerate. Or yeah, wear short clothes but be prepared to deal with the results. If you are there for a relatively brief time as a tourist I don't see why you would?
Morocco for me was a fascinating, challenging, complex experience. I miss my local friends there and hope we'll see each other again one day.
5
Jada you rock. You are brave and funny and smart and your trip is an amazing experience, but it also seems a bit terrifying. You are navigating your way around lands foreign to you where you don’t always speak the language and you don’t know the culture. You’re not hopping from resort to resort. You’re out there hanging with the people and you are largely doing it ALONE. You’re getting lost driving on dirt roads, getting stuck in rainstorms, hanging with random people in random cities. Thanks for doing this. You’re doing it all with interest and anticipation and not an ounce of pretension. Thanks for sharing all the experiences you have and people you meet with us! I loved the characters you meet along the way. Thanks for putting yourself out there. Seems like some say you fell for a tourist scam by hanging out with Mina. Well, heck, I’m glad you met her and I loved reading about it. Keep it up. You’re a delightful, brave soul and I love reading your adventures. Thanks for delivering them to me in the comfort of my living room. I particularly loved this dispatch. I don’t think I will ever get there...but I loved the picture you painted for me!
11
Ahh Morocco; a place to escape ones midwestern roots dive into the exotic, more foreign than the European travel experience. Paul Bowles and his literary artistic group of expats who were seeking the same freedoms from conservative small town America in the 30s up to the 50s wrote extensively novels and travelogs about their time spent in Tangiers, Fez, Marrakesh, and reflections on the American expat life of the cloistered American non worldly experience. Although it was many decades ago Morocco is still in most parts of the country very unchanged and traditional even still in native costume in some areas. We were in Fez and traveled the countryside in a guide driven old mercedes sedan before 9/11 and found it to be fascinating but not the place for a single woman traveler. Indeed foolish and naive to do such a thing. After 9/11 and even before, Americans were not very universally liked except for their money to be spent in their very poor country. The rug sellers in particular were highly expert at extortion while selling their wares in the souk. This only happens to foreigners. Yet it still is a great place to find the exotic a different beauty, fabulous tastes and smells, textiles, ceramics and and most of all the people. I highly recommend getting a good guide for a small amount of money on a daily basis who will take you to the best eateries, shops and monuments, speak for you and protect you from the unwanted hissers and cluckers.
2
Good tips at the end of the article! nice observation on the call to prayer early in the morning. When I travel to a majority muslim country I try to stay away from the old quarters, which seem to have more mosques, thus avoiding an early and unwanted wake up call when I want to sleep in. Great to see that this article didn't pack two destinations into one, though Chefchaouen sort of got in there. Not a close by destination, it is about three hours from Tangier...
2
Fish out of water. It's an old story used in the dog days of summer.
4
28 years ago, I had the exact same experience entering Morocco with an enthusiastic, older new friend I met on the ferry who didn't speak English!
On the ferry to Ceuta, an older man -- 70 or more -- dressed in a djellabah named Mohamed befriended me. He insisted on leading me through customs and walking into Morocco (Ceuta is a Spanish city on the African continent.)
Mohamed didn't speak any English but he immediately met a friend in his 20s, Abid, who did. The two of them insisted on taking me to tea. Then they showed me around the town. They were friendly and asked for nothing, but when Abid started talking about our plans for the next day I began to get uncomfortable. I snuck out early and took a bus to Chefchaouen, ironically, which I hadn't planned to do. I was going to go to Casablanca but I had confided my travel plans and decided to change up.
Like Jada, I wasn't sure how to interpret the episode. Maybe they were just very friendly and wanted to be sure a guest had a good, safe time in Morocco. You have to decide how paranoid or trusting you're going to be when traveling. The way they immediately picked me up and wouldn't let me go made my antennae tingle. But it's a different culture and maybe I was completely wrong.
I feel better about sneaking away after reading this story. Still I might have been wrong, but I'm telling you, I had the exact same experience as Jada, and I think there was some sort of scam, even if I don't know exactly what.
11
Ugh, these comments. Just because you weren't harassed doesn't mean someone else wasn't harassed.
20
Reading this, I wonder why I chose to read something by someone whose expertise lies in a couple of days in a very different culture than the one she can read and understand. OK, I read because I had spent several years in Morocco and had traveled often with my wife and several times with my twenty-something daughters when they visited. Our writer's experience was shaded by that kind older woman who aimed to protect her but set her up for fear. Women in Italy have their butts pinched, and groping on Tokyo subways is endemic. We travel to open our eyes, and yes, it is not so bad to keep our eyes open in the sense of keeping safe for if they are truly open, what wonderful things they can see.
My first exposure to Morocco was a sudden shift from a university in Algeria, where there are no tourists, to the souk of Marakesh for a conference. I must have smelled like disoriention and fear for I was mobbed by sellers who are expert in picking up the scent of money. I recoiled. Two years later, dressed the same but calm, my beautiful daughter and I walked the same crowded alleys and met the bored glances of shopkeepers with nods. Fear invites the barking dog and tourism can make us call the locals dogs. Just don't.
9
great article.. i was in tangier many years ago.. i am very much a male and was harassed followed and stalked to death to buy things.. thankfully nothing sexual but still draining.. although i had a good time i was quite happy to return to spain.. hate to sterotype but in the middle east and northern africa anywhere there were tourists there were men and children following them for money to be made.. would i return to the middle east..? sorry to say no.. buyer beware..
5
I'm a Moroccan travel specialist and send on average over 150 clients to Morocco every year. Many of my clients are females traveling in small groups or by themselves. I suggest to both female and male clients alike to dress modestly and to learn a few words of Moroccan Arabic so they can greet and thank Moroccan's correctly. I also suggest they smile a lot, "cause that is something everybody everywhere does in the same language". None of my female clients have reported any issues and quite often describe how their gestures of locally acceptable attire and greetings in Arabic have opened many doors instead. When in Rabat....as in Rome....
8
I loved this article, but Jewish immigrants to Chefchouen came from Granada (in Spain) and not Grenada (the Caribbean island).
13
The real Tangier can only be found behind closed doors. Endless cocktail parties, quiet yet philosophical dinners, and long luncheons at private gardens. There are several tours that caters specifically to this elegant visits, all starts in London, New York and Paris. As a newish resident who has traveled within Morocco proper in the last 18 months, I have found that Tangier is the only city where foreigners, white or otherwise, will be left alone outside the Old Medina. Due to its international past, the locals - especially the senior members, just immediately assume that you are one of them, a resident. If one survives the throng of loud Spaniards at Tanguer’s port of entry and the clueless Chinese tourists who come by the bus load, the rest is truly a breeze. The best way to enter Tangier is actually through its Airport, Innu Batutta, named after its famed 14th century (?) native explorer. It’s a small airport, with always more than enough custom officials to greet your arrival, ensuring that within less than 5 minutes you are already in the cab going to your local destination. Just imagine Gina Lollobrigida’s visit in the 60s. Hassle free, no fuss and utterly civilised.......
5
Makes you understand why someone would want to wear a burka - and consider it a free choice - just for the refuge it provides.
14
I saw the episode of Parts Unknown where Anthony Bourdain (RIP!) visited Tangier. It looked amazing, but I found myself (as I often do while watching that show) wondering what the experience would be like for a woman. Even the cafes he ate at were full of men. He was cooked for by a woman who then couldn't even sit at their table.
I'm single and tend to have a hard time finding friends to go on crazy trips with me, so I appreciate the female voice these travel articles!
19
I certainly sympathize with you and all of the women who are subjected to any form of harassment anywhere. But your article lacks any real insights on the very unique things and experiences that Tangier certainly does offer. It didn't reach that status of a mystical place that drew the likes of Barbara Hutton, Paul Bowles, Henry Mattise and YSL albeit most were men for being an unpleasant place!
4
Almost 20 years ago a girlfriend and I rented a car in Spain and took a ferry to Morocco with plans to spend a week traveling and exploring. We lasted only 36 hours before fleeing back to Spain. From the first second we arrived we were enveloped in unrelenting hustlers. We were harassed at every step by men (always men), all desperate, all angry when we tried to politely decline whatever offer they were pushing. Every word spoken to us was part of some well-rehearsed scheme. Our "no thank you" never worked. We learned our only option was quickly walk away and if they followed us to pick up our pace.
After getting back to Spain we finished reading our Let's Go Morocco book which concluded with some information that we wished had been been placed in the introduction section under "before you go" which stated that of all the places Let's Go covered, travelers rated Morocco as the place they were least likely to want to return to.
13
Jews left "en mass in 1948, thanks to the founding of Israel" is a spin: Moroccans collectively punished their Jews through pogroms and economic boycotts when Israel was created. Jews fled because of that collective punishment.
7
Last summer I traveled solo for a week in Marrakesh and environs and would never repeat the experience. I dressed modestly so that was not the issue. Several times I was propositioned by men half my age. When I explained to a tour guide that I did not want to tell the proprietor of my riad about the behaviour of her employee for fear of getting him sacked, he laughed and said that this behavior was perfectly acceptable and even expected. More than once male waiters refused to wait on me in restaurants. One night I was followed back to the riad by several young men. Yes, I had many encounters with lovely people but the daily indignities were so overwhelming that I would never return unless I were in the company of a male.
22
I thought this was delightful, and piqued my interest in travel to Morocco.
It is not so often that the Times has given a woman the chance to describe the particular harassment of females as something to attend to in travels. It's been a long time since I traveled solo: back then, much younger, I experienced it in many European cities: it was hard to figure out at a glance whether the "attention" was merely to get a rise out of me, annoying but silly; or irritating, but benign, in the manner of a benign tumor; or if it carried a real threat. I am really not sure male travelers can evaluate this - being on constant alert. It wasn't all about what I wore, it was because I was alone in places where that wasn't expected.
It didn't stop me from meeting people, even male people, or stop me from wanting to travel. But it is a hazard which has to be anticipated in many areas.
15
Visited Marrakesh last year, spent time walking in the Medina alone and in the company of my husband. Had virtually no problems. Treated with politeness from vendors and other pedestrians. When I smiled at passersby, I always received a warm smile back.
Two catcalls over the course of three days were subtle: guys literally making the quiet clicking sound that I've used to call my own housecats. The subtlety made it even more unsettling.
From a clothing perspective: may have had a little bit of lower calf showing from the hem of my long shirt from time to time; kept open necklines covered when a scarf out walking the streets. I saw many women wearing tank tops and shorts (it was 100 F). Their experiences may have been different than mine.
Best comment from a person on the street: "All of the Americans who visit here, they all love Barack Obama!"
I can't speak for Tangier -- but I was sad to leave Marrakesh. I felt a real warmth there. A little Bonjour went a long way.
7
When I traveled extensively in Nepal in the early 80's, my sister (Peace Corps in Nepal) had warned me about "culturally sensitive behavior." So I had long skirts. Never wore shorts. Coveted my head on occasion. Behaved as she wanted and the locals expected.
I saw Americans wearing halter tops. I saw Germans sitting on the lap of Buddha getting photos - barely dressed. I saw worse. It was appalling. I myself never had a problem in 4 months.
The first commenter is right: just because others travel and wear what THEY want, doesn't make it nice.
Dress modestly if that is THEIR culture
Even in Italy!
It opens more doors than it closes.
Think about how YOU feel when some Easterners stand in front of sacred religious statues and flash the peace sign and pout for photos. ---- are you SURE you want to show skin in Morocco??
Susan
Expat in Ireland
31
Loose long skirts or slacks, and long UV factor shirts ( such as those sold by Columbia) make much sense in hot climates. Why not wear them and be more appropriate? And a large, modern fabric UV shielding hat likewise makes sense, and is always acceptable in Muslim cultures.
There are secure travel purses ( such as by Pacsafe) that are lightweight, have embedded cables that cannot be cut in straps, and that have RFID blocking pouches for credit cards and passports.
In addition, the cross body shoulder straps have quick release mechanism to allow the purse to be latched through a chair back, plus locking mechanisms for the zippers.
These are sensible precautions in the Third World, and even on subways of most foreign nations.
19
@Jean A safe handbag, like the one you describe, is a good item for subways here in the U.S. and also at restaurants--not just the Third World.
4
Some 30 years ago part of a business leader tour group awash with various celebrities, we had the opportunity to walk the walled streets, shop in the Souk and virtually do as we pleased. We were evenly split between men and women. Despite the presence of guides and much herding many decided to head off on their own to enjoy the exotic town. The day ended with the Kings Feast on the polo field, an event that was a story onto itself.
We had arrived on the QE2, the first deep water ship to stop there in some time. Upon return to the ship we heard nothing but hassle-free stories of discovery and shopping. However we were also told that this was special; the entire town had been informed, presumably by the King, that we were not to be bothered in any way. It all seemed a bit far fetched to us as we turned in aboard ship.
We later learned that several male passengers had planned to end their cruise in Tangiers and ‘hang out’ in the exotic town, but they had contacted the ship before we departed to be picked up by tender and returned to the group. Apparently once the group left on the last tender the rules changed and Tangiers reverted to its authentic self, a place where these men found it difficult to venture outside their hotel without being ‘swarmed’ by hangers-on and what not.
We had all been thoroughly charmed by the place both as presented and as exposed. Exotic indeed
7
I love this series but am struck sometimes by the naïveté of the author. Maybe that’s the point.
The author didn’t make a new friend, she fell for the oldest trick in the Moroccan book of tourist traps. And it’s telling that she didn’t even realize it.
52
Interesting...I think in places like Morrocco Western women should not show knees or very much skin ...You make yourself a target. I started going to Mexico in the 80's and frankly being hissed at, followed in the street was fairly common...I never wore shorts unless on the beach...I was in Spain in the 60's which was worse..I don't really understand why Americans or westerners think they have to wear shorts etc in very traditional cultures...Saying that I feel sorry for women in countries where they are required to cover themselves entirely. This all relates to male dominance issues...
25
@Mitzi, There are cultures that are moving to the West that require the women to cover themselves entirely. And there are also many men who move here that carry their sexism with them.
4
My experience and observation of the street behavior in Morocco as it pertains to treatment of women was not marked by “lawlessness”. Yes, I was approached for money and cigarettes, but that happens in many places around the world. But I never saw anyone bother a woman in an untoward fashion. As far as my own safety was concerned, I never felt threatened or in danger and the Moroccans I encountered were for the most part kind—or at least polite. I stayed in a small, private hotel (a private house converted to a hotel) in the old Casbah area of Tangier. Yes, the area had an intimidating appearance on first arrival but I walked in and out with no problems.
Not everyplace in the world looks like Disney World. Most of the world doesn’t. But that is where the real people live.
15
I visited Morocco several times, with one stay lasting weeks, when I lived in Spain in the 1970's. One's attitude, I found was the key to keeping harassment at bay. My dress wasn't overly "modest," nor was it meant to attract anyone's eyes. You did want to keep a good grip on your wallet, though -- but where doesn't one have to do that?
Bu the way, if Mina has learned her Spanish in her native country, she would have ended her instruction to "sit down" with "ese," not "ase."
5
It's so fascinating to finally hear a woman's voice in these pages. For so long we've heard so much mansplaining about the world through the lens of white men who traipse through the world effortlessly in a position of unacknowledged privilege. Even though I am not white and am constantly reminded of my "otherness" when I travel internationally, I never realized how much privilege I carried just by simply being a man. The solo female world traveler is truly the most intrepid of travelers.
99
I wish my fellow travel writers would stop telling western readers that it's okay to show your knees and wear whatever you want when traveling in Morocco, or Jordan, or even if you're in Barcelona and want to go in some of the cathedrals. It's a disservice to readers. Yes, I saw young women from Europe wearing short-shorts in the medinas in Fes and Marrakech this spring, and yes, you'll meet people who will tell you, sure, wear what you want. Does that mean you should, or that you won't draw attention to yourself? Dress appropriately for the culture you're visiting. It's pretty simple. And in Morocco, it's appropriate to cover your knees.
55
Tangier - what a place! A real crossroads city. I visited it a few times when I was a Peace Corps volunteer in Safi, Morocco almost forty years ago - a 24-year-old, blond, gay man from the U.S.
4
Having traveled widely, my experiences of harassment in Morocco were no worse than in Italy as a 20-something being cat-called and grabbed at by men everywhere, or in Mexico with my family just a few years ago, when we couldn't sit on the beach without being approached every 2 minutes by a guy trying to sell us something.
Dressing conservatively and mastering at least a few phrases in the local language allows Westerners to blend in (at least a little), while showing respect for the culture regardless of whether we "believe in" its restrictions. For me, this has been the best way to experience a new town from a more local perspective. Granted, I've not spent any significant time in Tangiers, but my time in the medinas of Rabat, Casablanca, Fes, and Marrakech was nothing like those of this article's reporter; conversely, the local people treated me with warmth, curiosity, friendliness, and hospitality. And the street hawkers can be brushed off like flies with a couple of choice words spoken in their own language.
15
My rule of thumb everywhere on the planet: dress dowdy, cover knees and elbows, don't wear makeup. Things may have changed, but a lot of churches in Italy still didn't admit women with bare arms in the 1990s. And a guy in shorts with no shirt was kicked out of a church in Greece. Respect other people's customs. You will still get pestered. In Athens, a guy wrapped his arm around my waist; I peeled it off twice, the third time, I had to dig my nails in (he didn't yell or complain, but he got the message). It was weird, being half Greek myself, and taken for a French woman; my mother and I had a bunch of guys follow us and grab at my hat, yelling "galliki! galliki!" (Frenchies) In Italy, some restaurants would not serve me when I was alone. Rule of thumb: dress nicely, and go to the best restaurants. They always served me. Even in the US, a woman alone gets harassed sometimes, or followed by cops, or profiled in stores and airports.
26
In Jan 2018 three women friends and I traveled in Morocco for two weeks and had a marvelous time. We visited Fez, Chefchaouen, Marrakech and Essaouria and found Moroccan people, both male and female, to be incredibly warm and hospitable throughout. We are older (60) & perhaps for that reason we experienced no sexual harassment but it was also winter and we were covered up for the most part. It's true that people will expect you to pay them a few dirhams for leading you through the medina or for taking their photos but at a 9-1 exchange rate, that's no great hardship & we were grateful for the help when we were lost. We had a driver for long distance travel but also took a Supratour bus from Marrakech to Essaouria with no problems. I had only one unpleasant experience in the whole two weeks, when a woman in the Jmaa el Fna market in Marrakech grabbed my hand and began painting a henna design despite my protests. I gave her 20 dirhams (about $2) and though her friend demanded more, we just walked away. I should also note that we were in Morocco when the president made his rude comment about African countries and we apologized for it (and him) to various people, who shrugged it off. "We like Americans," one man said. Another young man added philosophically, "sometimes leaders are bad. Take Algeria, for example," to which one of my friends replied, "you don't understand, we're not used to being compared to Algeria!"
19
As a New Yorker I witness (with disgust) women being catcalled and insulted weekly. How is this news?
6
Sorry but you have no idea what you are talking about. I have lived in NYC for 15 years and also have traveled throughout Morocco. There is no comparison between the catcalls you get in this city and the pervasive, unrelenting, and degrading harassment I experienced in Tangier (but not in other parts of Morocco). And I wore a headscarf and covered all my limbs!
80
@Danny, And many NY'ers move here from where else?
3
I passed through Tangier in 1997 coming and going. It was absolutely a horrible place, one of the worst places I have ever passed through. And when I was young I traveled to a lot of lawless, off-the-beaten path places.
16
@Jay David Then you need to come back. The new young and progressive King has turned things around.
2
Morocco remains one of my favourite trips as a solo female. A word of advice is for women to wear long sleeves and cover their legs, otherwise prepare for a lot of unwanted attention. Public displays of affection are also not recommended. I saw this when a married Western couple who were simply holding hands elicited rather loud admonishments from locals. Respect the local culture and embrace contact with Moroccans, who are extremely hospitable and friendly.
In many villages, men are away working in France or Spain so the women may invite female travellers into their homes to visit, have tea, or dinner. Being fluent in french allowed me to experience this and it was a highlight of my trip to spend time with a local family.
11
This story is stunningly identical to the wretched experience I and 2 friends (one a very beautiful woman)
had 30 years ago.
We had planned to spend a week in Tangiers. After being followed constantly, lied to on multiple occasions, cheated on and even threatened, we left after 3 days and sought refuge in Spain.
We were managers in the travel industry and all of us had travelled extensively.
We all agreed we had never experienced harassment anywhere on the level we did in Tangiers.
49
I was in Tangiers on a honeymoon nearly 40 years ago. I left there shattered and in tears from all the handling I had to undergo. My husband kept saying, They aren't hurting you -- let it go -- keep calm. I would never return, even if age and finances permitted. I found them simply nasty people. And I grew up in Africa and had and have traveled extensively.
42
@Diana Wright Dearest Diana. You do realise that a lot has happened since 40 years ago, right? The Berlin Wall, for example has came down long time ago........
2
When I traveled in Morocco (with a female friend, though I was sometimes alone) I noticed a gradation of treatment by how I was dressed and who I was with. My default was very modest Western dress - maxi dresses or skirts, sleeves, collarbones covered. In this garb, locals would address me and ask me questions, ask if I was Muslim, speculate as to my country of origin, etc. but I never felt threatened. At times we wore djellabas that we had purchased. When we wore those, we would be stared at, but no one spoke to us first. I then befriended a local family, and the teenage son would sometimes escort me and my friend around. When we were with him, no one even looked in our direction.
13
@ml. How terribly sad that in 2018, women have to cover themselves and be escorted by a male in any country. These non Western countries need to demand the same freedoms for their foreign visitors that they demand in the West.
36
And how does the US and Europe treat woman in hijabs? Or for that matter, men in turbans?
2
Newsflash: All Muslim countries are not the same, just like all secular or all Christian ones aren’t. Religion is not the sole or even main determinant of culture. I have found traveling alone as a young woman in some Muslim countries to be an easy and enjoyable experience (Mali, Turkey, Pakistan). I felt in fact the religion manifested itself with a certain modesty between men and women that only made me feel secure. Traveling through North African Muslim countries (Egypt, Morocco) was the opposite- I’ve never felt more harassed and uncomfortable.
42
@Frequent flyerMaybe, but namea single non muslim country where women experience harassment at this level, or have to change their style if dress. Betcha can't. Dark ages.
1
Not dark ages. A different culture, thats how i see it. I can only report kindness and respect-- morocco through egypt and up through the levant through turke to istanbul. all good.
I am a middle aged woman and I frequently travel through Muslim countries. I have found that most people are very welcoming and warm. However, I do always dress very conservatively and I always keep my wits about me. The little bit of harassment I have received is the usual attempt to sell me something. When in Rome...
9
I am a woman who has traveled in Morocco on my own many times with no problems. As for the catcalls, when I was younger I was subjected to far worse in parts of Europe. And unlike cities in Europe, the men at Moroccan cafes (and it's true the cafes are filled mostly with men) have been drinking nothing stronger than tea all night. As an older woman who has traveled much of the world alone I have stories, believe me. But a bit of advice: in a Muslim country, cover your legs. Whether out of respect or just pragmatism, modesty will serve you well in your travels. And you are not there to draw attention toward you, but to insinuate yourself in undiscovered communities, and lives lived differently.
67
@CP Unless you look Moroccan and speak Moroccan Arabic, you aren't "insinuating" into anything, you're just another tourist.
11
@Helvetico I am not sure you are taking CP's comment in the spirit in which it was offered.
5