When the Menu Says ‘Organic,’ but All the Food Isn’t

Aug 13, 2018 · 64 comments
Steve (Quee)
Barebuger claims that it now serves a 100% organic beef burger from “Vermont Country Farm” in Shelbourne, VT. But if you do a search, instead up comes NPCprocessing inc. which is a giant industrial meat processing warehouse, that processes meat from many sources and places. It is in VT and is in the “country” but no farm. Nothing on its website npcprocessing.com indicates that it processes organic meat and only states “all-natural”. I live near a bareburger and walk my dog and my pet loves smelling bareburger’s garbage. Wondering how they do “organic” in NYC in last winter I did take a good look at its recycling and I saw nothing organic at all. I guess building a brand on fraud works- it worked for Trump for decades.
Arianna Myers (Glassboro, NJ)
You would be very surprised how many foods are marked “organic” on a menu, but are not actually organic. Most “organic” food are twice the price of the regular food. The organic industry is mostly targeted at the middle and higher class men because they can actually afford the food and paying twice the price for it. The FDA is surprisingly very lenient on their food labels, that is why there is so much fake organic food. They are trying to trick your minds that you are eating healthy when actually you are just eating regularly food. It is known that “organic” is the biggest scam since the oil industry. “Organic” is recently the most used for marketing. Humans that work as marketing representatives get so much money for just labeling “organic” on a food product and making you pay twice the price for regular food. Restaurants such as, “Bareburger” are losing customers because of their fake organic menu and people not enjoying their food. A lot of people became and becoming upset because of the fake organic industry and how it is a mind trick. Thing such as, “Organic Lamb” and “Organic Bison,” are labeled on menus when there is no such thing. So, that tells you right there that the organic industry is fake.
Jen in Astoria (Astoria NY)
Organic=fancy new word for "markup" and nothing more. OTOH it's pretty obvious that the whole world can't be fed using Iron Age farming methods.
peter (texas)
Organic Burgers. Hmm. Seems like an oxymoron to me.
Davidoff101 (Queens)
With the insanely high overhead in NYC it is not possible to do a restaurant (even a 10% organic menu) it is not profitable and as real as VW's clean diesel engine. Bareburger states that organic fruits and vegetables are available only when in season. So in NYC during eight months the chances of them being organic are next to zero! Who is Euripidies Pelakanos? See Stavroulakis vs. Pelakanos You can't make a "organic blend" of 70/30 and call it an "organic burger" since it violates USDA organic laws. None of Bareburger's burgers are USDA organic because it is too expensive to do in reality and customers won't pay. He sold his franchisees and the public a fraud and promotes alternative facts!
Nreb (La La Land)
For all the chumps and their fads, remember that the world cannot be fed on only organic gardened food. Plus, the 'organic gang', Adelle Davis, J. I. Rodale, George Ohsawa, et al, died relatively young compared to my folks who ate chicken fat sandwiches on white bread most of their lives and outlived that crew.
Van Basten (NYC)
Bareburger, regardless of any of its labels, sell overpriced sub-mediocre products, accompanied by pretty awful service. Burgers for tools.
PeterC (BearTerritory)
I’ve only eaten inorganic food for decades- salt, a little water.
AuthenticEgo (Nyc)
Hu Kitchen does the same thing - implies everything is organic when actually only some things are. It’s misleading. And restaurants can charge double the price. If no one digs under the surface. The guy in the article actually did do a little digging (literally) and now there is an NYT article about this practice. I myself did a little digging at Hu Kitchen and found out they do not use organic almonds and their almond supplier is in the US. This is a big deal because back in circa 2006, the FDA passed new regs for domestic grown almonds. All non-organic almonds are sprayed with a chemical that is banned in EU and Canada because its a probable human carcinogen. I forget the actual name but this info is easily found in an internet search. See why Hu Kitchen’s use of non-organic almonds is a big deal? I personally cannot eat anything from Hu Kitchen that has almonds in it as i would break out in itchy lumps somewhere on my body after consuming. I questioned a higher-up person at Hu in person about what type of almonds they use (non organic) and where their supplier was (california). The higher-up didnt seem too interested or concerned when i emailed her links to info on non organic almonds grown in usa. Why? Because it would cut into their profit margin no doubt. The best answer to this issue is an educated consumer/restaurant patron. And yes, one will have to play “detective” for now, until someone starts a website database....
Ambrose Rivers (NYC)
While Mr. Rosenberg is certainly free to eat organic if he chooses, it would have been helpful for author Krishna to explain how his being "prone to infection" is connected to organic food - particularly when we learn later that the infection-prone Rosenberg took it upon himself to spend time going through the restaurant's trash.
Ace (New Utrecht, Brooklyn)
@Ambrose Rivers Exactly, that was the first thing that got my attention also: "after undergoing surgery that left him prone to infection and more inclined to eat organic meat." This is based upon what medical/scientific basis? Come to think of it, one would think that the more processed a food is the "cleaner" it would be? And beef raised with antibiotics better for him?
Davidoff101 (Queens)
NYC restaurants are required to recycle their cardboard and plastic bottles in clear plastic bags that are carted off by private companies after closing. You don't have to open or go through any clear bags since you can see through them. I have glanced at them in the past and have seen quart cartons of regular (not organic) buttermilk, as well as bottles that show no organic logos at all.
DAM (NY)
This organic world is thrown around way too often. As well as local and sustainable. Please stop!!!!!!
Mike L (NY)
I’m sorry but much of this organic food craze is a huge ripoff. Food companies stamp ‘organic’ on a product and sell it for twice the price of so-called non-organic food. The whole organic food industry is targeted at the middle class and the upper middle class who can afford the high cost of this mostly fake organic food. Americans have no idea how lenient the FDA is with food labels. It’s all just a big scam brought to you by food companies and endorsed by the FDA.
ten organic farms (NJ)
@Mike L Your critique would be more credible had you not incorrectly identified FDA as responsible for overseeing organic certification. USDA has that authority, as the article makes clear. I've worked in organic certification for thirty years and am spending today inspecting organic farms. Organic certification is very real. No one should use it as one stop shopping when buying food, but it does provide useful information.
Davidoff101 (Queens)
So Mike L, if you were certifying Pat Lefrieda and their "custom made organic blends" of meats at their plants I guess you would say report them to the USDA or be quiet and collect your handsome certification fees? Pat lafrieda, its certifier and Bareburger are violating USDA organic rules and commiting fraud on the public. Bareburger is supplied by Sysco and doing organic in a retail restaurant in NYC is no viable as a business.
Dump Drump (Jersey)
'Organic' is the biggest money making scam since the oil industry years ago put 'old' field oil into 'new' barrels and sold it at a premium. PT Barnum would just laugh.
Fernando (Buenos Aires)
Alberto Gonzalez de Gustorganics before going on the news should have compensated those of us who believed in the project and helped with our savings.
aaron green (queens)
He says “we’ve never said we’re all organic” etc. but ignore you go into any Bareburger anywhere and ask any member of the staff if the burgers and condiments etc are organic they will all and always says “yes, absolutely.”
Wes Dumont (Sunnyside)
It stinks that ‘organic’ is meaningless when the majority of consumers believe it to have significant meaning. It stinks further to use it to dupe people out of their money by using that significance. Bareburger is doing more than that though. As shown in the article, they’re using ingredients, condiments and toppings that are readily available as organic and using cheaper alternatives. That’s fraud.
Margo Channing (NYC)
Organic just another way to fleece unsuspecting and naïve people.
mrfreeze6 (Seattle, WA)
As with so many things, Americans think they have the best health care system, the best cars, the best cities, the best military, the best of everything. Unfortunately, most Americans are misinformed about how the U.S. stacks up against the rest of the world. One particular problem in the States is that the diet is broken. The food system is nothing more than a mass production assembly line of overly processed, genetically and chemically modified products. The stuff Americans consume daily isn't food anymore, it's a mass of "formulations" masquerading" as food. It doesn't really matter if food is marketed as organic, natural or homemade. We should treat everything we consume with skepticism.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ mrfreeze6 Seattle, WA "We should treat everything we consume with skepticism"--or consume nothing ...
aaron green (queens)
@mrfreeze6 you’d think if the main sign of you’re restaurabts say something Organic in big letters right under the restaurant name that the items are all organic and yea 100% organic. There is no way I can believe the owner didn’t know that most people would view this and think everything is all organic. Shady.
Tom H. (North Carolina)
Organic, more than any other term in recent memory, has been used as a marketing tool. The American people have fallen for it hook, line and free range sinker. Too many have also fallen for the notion of organic farming vs. sustainable production that keeps fresh foods in the markets year round and continues to eradicate world hunger.
Jake (A Purple Place)
I am a classically trained chef and have worked in the food business for 20 years. I lost all confidence in anything labeled as organic when years ago I bought an "organic" limeade. It did not taste all that good. So curiously I looked at the ingredients and the fourth one was 'organic lime flavor'. Confused I looked that up and found how a flavoring could carry the organic designation. Needless to say the USDA is just lining their pockets if a derived product, not food, can be organic. Now when I'm not buying simple ingredients to cook at home, I only buy foods where the ingredient list is made up of items I could buy separately. Organic means nothing and to date I've seen ingredients called organic like xanthan gum, vanillin, tartaric acid, and natural flavors. A little simple advice from a chef. Buy real whole ingredients, wash your fruits and veggies, grow a garden if you can, and don't focus on labels such as organic or local or sustainable or homemade/homestyle.
Tim Martinson (Ithaca, NY)
Food marketers invariably shade the truth about their products, emphasizing the good attributes and not mentioning the bad ones. And restaurants use cleaning products that I suspect may be more impactful to consumers than whether the food is organic or not.
theconstantgardener (Florida)
Here in St. Petersburg, we had a plethora of restaurants claiming to be "local, sustainable, farm to table". Many were using the the terms fraudulently. Laura Reiley at the Tampa Bay Times did a fabulous investigation. It's a long read, but well worth it. http://www.tampabay.com/news/farm-to-fable-a-times-investigation-into-ta....
Margo Channing (NYC)
@theconstantgardener "Farm to table" The late great Anthony Bourdain said it best: I'm pretty sure it was grown on a farm and I am eating it at a table. He and I both detest that phrase and it's overuse. Meh.
Louis (Amherst, NY)
There is absolutely no excuse in this modern day and age to play games like this with the consumers. If they want to call themselves organic, then they ought to go the extra mile and become organic. If they can't get an organic ingredient then they ought to be honest with the customers or look for another supplier. The best thing to do is to make your own organic burgers with meat from a supply you trust. Or thoroughly investigate the restaurants suppliers and see if they offer an all organic alternative.
Lisa Schmidt (Scottsdale, Arizona)
@Louis they are not playing games. It's called marketing. Businesses without ethics say whatever they want, since there are no consequences for misrepresenting a term for which there is no teeth. The only way to protect yourself from unscroupulous claims is by purchasing Certified Organic products, and cooking at home. Boring, but true.
Jim (Jersey City, New Jersey)
Of course many restaurants are going to claim 'organic', 'gluten-free', etc. because it means they can upcharge on the item and they are cashing in on the fad. My favorite is a pizza place that has a 'gluten-free' pizza with dough that is made elsewhere because they cannot make it locally with all the flour in the pizza shop. A person with celiac disease will get sick from their 'gluten free' pizza because, while the pizza may indeed be gluten free, they cook it in the same oven as the other pizzas.
rockstarkate (California)
@Jim Yes. I have celiac disease and I have given up on eating out aside from one restaurant I have found that is 100% gluten free for all their foods. The label "gluten free" exists for people on a fad diet, not for people like me who have a serious autoimmune condition. Even GF-labeled products in the US are allowed to contain a certain level of gluten. It's really frustrating. The only choice is to cook everything myself.
JP (St. Louis Missouri)
The statement that the use of the term organic “seems like an attempt to deceive and an attempt to defraud” is not only true in the context of a restaurant, it is true as a food label. Is organic healthier? No. Safer? No. Are organic foods produced without the use of pesticides? No. Are they more expensive? Yes.
JG (Tallahassee, FL)
@JP They're certainly safer for the farm workers. They're safer for consumers as well. Take a look around the Environmental Working Group's web site if you're interested in the science behind the claim.
JP (St. Louis Missouri)
@JG-the same EWG that is currently scare-mongering about glyphosate based on the IARC report debunked by every major scientific body in the world?
Michael B (Brooklyn)
We stopped eating at Bare Burger after like 3 times in a row we had bad experiences with the food, including totally raw burgers, and bone in the burger. The place seems like more flash than delivery, and skepticism about their practices does seem prudent.
Wes Dumont (Sunnyside)
After years of family nights’ out here, we’ve had to find new digs. The cleanliness is abhorrent at all four queens locations. Par for the course for their corporate ethos, it now seems
Bob (Pennsylvania)
Such idiocy of those who want organic foods and such, since CHEMICALLY all foods ARE "organic". What these ignorant exaltees mean to say is that they want to ingest foods that do not have manmade chemicals on or in them (even though those chemicals are, in fact, themselves totally "organic"). I suggest they take a two semester course on organic chemistry to understand what I mean.
Piotr (Ogorek)
Mr. Rosenberg is obviously a shake down artist.
Mr. Buck (New York)
"51 year old Rosenberg went thru the restaurants garbage to look for labels"....Does anyone else see the absolute absurdity of someone doing this? I didn't go thru their garbage, I went to their website and read their FAQ about their food. I think they've done a good job with their food transparency. Wish more places looked at their food sourcing practices the same way.
Davidoff101 (Queens)
I guess if Bareburger states it on their website then it must be true? Bareburger has lied to my family many times when we went to eat there by teling us that all of their food is organic.
M (NYC)
"Mr. Pelekanos said he didn’t think Bareburger needed to stop using “organic” entirely. “Why are we going to run away from a word, when we have spent so much time and energy over the years to serve so much organic food in our restaurants, and we charge a premium for it?” he asked." Maybe you shouldn't charge a premium if it's not really organic. Maybe you shouldn't think about the time and energy you put in and instead you should consider that some people choose organic food for a reason and deserve honesty and transparency from your company.
Gilbert Rosen (Queens)
Building a brand on fraud is not the way to do business! BB's franchises use the word "ORGANIC" with their TM logo blazoned on their store fronts with bright illuminated signs. They display "ORGANIC" on their windows. BB's awnings state "organic salads", "organic sandwiches", "organic grass fed-burgers". "Burgers" is plural and means more than one-right ? The Impossible Burger that BB serves is GM. Do you think they use a different cooking surface to cook their Impossible Burger with their other burgers as the genetically modified heme seeps out? It is a burger & fries joint that calls itself "Organic Bareburger" yet very few of the items served are actually USDA organic! I have past BB menus that claim to serve "Organic Bison" and "Organic Lamb" when no such things exist! So their ketchup is organic as well as their coffee, ice tea concentrates, salad dressing, certain cheeses and ice cream - but what about the burgers, onions, buns, french fries, pickles, mayo, sauces, mustard, tomatoes, guacamole, bacon, lettuce, jalapenos, onion rings and canola oil? If you go into a restaurant and very few items on the menu are organic, don't use the word "Organic" all over the place! When I asked, owners & employees they lied to me! The Chicago BB closed down and I guess people in IL wised up. BB could have simply used the words "All-Natural", but that does not bring in customers at $16 a burger.
Kim G. (New Jersey)
We should support restaurants that strive to bring us local, sustainable, and mostly organic meat, dairy and produce--and Bareburger is doing just that. No one is complaining about "farm to table" restaurants, that seem to operate without really putting a label on anything and hoping you won't ask. I'm grateful Bareburger is so transparent and making local, sustainable, and--when available--organic comfort food.
Gilbert Rosen (Queens)
@Kim G. How do you know that they are actually local, grass-fed & sustainable? Have you checked where their suppliers are are located where they buy their products? I guess if they say so then it must be true. The tomatoes they use are from Mexico. Look at their partial list of suppliers and see what states they come from. Sierra meats & Seafood is in Reno Nevada. I guess that is local.
Joe (California)
It seems to me that whether or not a restaurant that holds itself out as organic has been certified organic by or reports to the Department of Ag or is subject to different regulations than grocers is beside the point that customers are entitled to the benefit of their contracts. I think all one has to do is change " organic" to "clean," and "conventional" to "dirty" or "with poison" to understand how serious this is for people who go out of their way to patronize an organic restaurant in particular and don't get what they purchased. No one has any legitimate right to con another person with respect to what they want to put in their body to stay healthy. It's common law fraud, breach of contract, and battery, regardless of what the lobby-influenced regulations say.
Volafotsy (International)
Didn’t Anthony bourdain warm you all about eating at the restaurants? I don’t remember exactly what he said but “if you are too demanding of quality and such from a restaurant he said you better stay home and make your own food “! Bon appetit!
Lisa Schmidt (Scottsdale, Arizona)
@Volafotsy it always amazes me when people strive to eat healthy at hamburger chains. Whole foods, mostly plants, cooked at home - that's the way to go!
Davidoff101 (Queens)
Bourdain was speaking about quality, service, taste and basic standards, NOT fraud and lying to customers! I have been eating at Bareburger franchises on and off for years and I was told repeatedly that the burgers, fries and onion rings are "Organic". I was lied to since maybe 10% of their food is organic off season. They fooled me and my family with their servers wearing organic bareburger t- shirts, the awnings, signs, take out bags, burger clam shells and menu with the words "Organic Bareburger" on it. The NYT's has effectively saved me $1,200 a year, since they lost a good customer. If you type in any search engine, "organic" and "burgers"; it takes you right to their website so they bought key words! Meaning they still are defrauding the public.
Marian (Kansas)
Perhaps Mr. Rosenberg should change his career and lobby Congress to work for better labeling laws. Why badger the little guy?
Scratching (US)
@Marian---He feels deceived, and, probably- at least in the literal sense- was. Pretty straight forward. It's either organic or it isn't. If it isn't, then calling it organic is...not really an honest business practice.
David A (Seattle)
At what point on the slippery slope does food no longer qualify as organic? The management at Bareburger appeared to have best intentions when starting out but succombed to cutting corners with 75-80% organic patties as they grew. Mr. Rosenberg has a fair point if along the way the company reduced its committment to a 100% organic food sourcing but didn't tell the customer.
dutchiris (Berkeley, CA)
I don't have a lot of confidence in the FDA anymore, but I would prefer that food labelled organic is actually certified organic. The people running these restaurants know what they're serving, and if all of it isn't from an organic source they shouldn't be calling it organic. We have been buying organic produce for years, and at least avoiding any conventionally grown products that can't be peeled, such as strawberries, blueberries, lettuce, broccoli, etc. When we patronize an organic restaurant or cafe, we assume that they are following an even more stringent protocol and that everything they serve is organic. We are going out of our way to find organic food and we are often paying extra for it. Serving some food that is and some that isn't, and claiming that all of it is, is unethical.
stuckincali (l.a.)
If Mr. Rosenberg is so afraid of not eating a 100% pure burger, he should either make his own to stop eating burgers. He seems determined to get both attention & $$. Living in CA, every week the list of places closed for rats, cockroaches, poor sanitation, incorrect temperatures, etc. is posted in the local newspaper. Many if not most of these places are either places that serve a specific ethnic food, or places that proclaim their organic produce,etc.
Wes Dumont (Sunnyside)
But he’s speaking of labeling fraud. That takes a different approach.
BK (NS)
I thought at least the NYT still knew the difference between "All the food isn't" and "not all the food is". I agree that a 75% organic burger maybe should not be labeled "organic", and that a clearer definition should be found, but to say that "all the food is not organic" is not merely misleading but plain wrong.
Domenick (NYC)
Why am I reminded of the Titanic and an image of a few well-meaning deckhands arranging the furniture?
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
My first impressiom is that the heavy tattoos on the forearms of Mr. Pelekanos and the logo on his T-shirt are sufficient to turn customers away from any food that he handles. The distinction between the so-called "organic" and other foods is in the methods of raising the animal and growing the plant ingredients. Some years ago, DuPont chemical company had an ad: "Better things for better living -- through chemistry". A day will come when various meats, fish and vegetable roots will be synthesized from the chemical elements in the air and minerals. Then the Judaic, Roman Catholic, and Jain clergy will have a fertile ground for endless debates on whether such synthetic foods are ritualistically admissible. In my irreligious opinion, synthetic ham, synthetic fish on Friday, and synthetic carrots should be acceptable by each religion, respectively.
Susannah Allanic (France)
This is addressed to Mr. Vladimir Grinberg. Yes, we have known about organic foods, stores, and restaurants since, at least, 1968. We didn't call organic then, we called it Health Food. I had friends in Palm Springs who grew health foods. (organic). There were two restaurants in PS that were Health Foods only and that is right down to their coffee. When I grocery shopped it was at a Health Food store in PS and I often ate lunch there because their food was delicious. Before that, 1968, I ate at my grandparents houses. My grandmother's kept kitchen gardens and one grandmother kept chickens that were free-roaming and supplemented with grains my grandfather grew for some of the milking cows. He believed that the milk from cows fed with 'healthy grains and fodder' gave better tasting milk. My Dad had a garden of fruits and veggies. He used chickens for pest control and compost for soil enrichment. We have know about organic farming and production for a very long time. Probably a few millenniums. There will always be people who want whole foods, naturally grown, treated humanely. I like it because it is more diverse. Oh! In France it is called Bio. In order to place that Bio label on the item, the soil it is grown it must be tested periodically.
Jack (NYC)
"Organic" does not mean much anywhere -- it is just a marketing gimmick to entice gullible consumers to pay more.
Damien D (New York)
@Jack you're free to believe so. But you can also think that there are good chances that the product sold as organic was actually produced following the USDA requirements, meaning it's mostly free of pesticides.
NA (NYC)
@Jack And you know this based on what?
Vanessa Hall (Millersburg, MO)
@Damien D - Myriad exceptions to organic in the USDA certification process have rendered the label almost meaningless. And no, it's not free of pesticides. Organic pesticides exist, just as organic chemicals exist. Choosing something from an identified local source or something known to be sustainably produced is often a better choice than something that is USDA certified organic. ( Because I'm married to someone who has been part of the organic certification process. It's a process not a product, and the regulations have been hijacked by Big Ag. )