Place 21 of 52: Keep Oslo Weird

Jul 10, 2018 · 20 comments
TL (Tokyo)
"Outrageously good food"? Surely the writer meant to say "Outrageously expensive."
Sharon Johnson (Canada)
Was just there! Didn’t see the weird and bizarre stuff but it was gay Pride weekend and a lot of partying was going on with rainbows everywhere on commercial establishments. Had a great time seeing all the recommended sights but the person who said Norway is about its outdoors is right. Do a self guided Norway in a Nutshell tour over a period of a few days going by train and ferry, then rent a car and drive the coastal fjords. Spectacular scenery and hikes.
Philip Sedlak (Antony, Hauts-de-Seine, France)
I should have placed bets on The Scream being stolen when I was there. As I remember, it was not far from the front door .. but it came back, I read. Munch was known for depression, so I have mixed feelings about the paintng coming back.
gudbrandsdalen (HTX)
Been here a couple of times, most recently last year in May (the lilacs were in full bloom). I second most of the recommendations here. Design geeks may want to jump on a quick train ride to Mortensrud, which has the lovliest modern church I think I have ever visited. I'm not religious, but emailed before my trip back in 2005 and they graciously invited me to a Sunday service. They had horses on the grounds back then, too. It was also featured in Season 1 of Occupied.
Mon Ray (Skepticrat)
Some friends have visited Oslo multiple times and they have made it sound interesting enough that I put it on the to-visit list for my next trip to Europe. However, this article has kicked Oslo off my list, at least for now. Descriptive terms like "weird" and "bizarre" are hardly likely to attract potential visitors (or me), nor is the mental image of a sculpture of an anatomically correct woman urinating on the ground. (The highlight of the visit? I hope not. Soon to be emulated in European capitals? I don't think so.) I gather the editor of this column has asked for a different kind of travel reporting, which we have certainly been getting here. If you want a useful guide to any city or country, try the on-line Frommer's Guides or even Trip Advisor. For weird or bizarre coverage, try The 52 Places Traveler.
CC (MA)
You missed out by not visiting the world's largest (& best) ski museum and the Holmenkollen ski jump. It's about a 20 minute Metro ride from the city center and worthwhile visiting. Norway is the birthplace of skiing and its history is interesting in relationship to the activity/sport.
The Kenosha Kid (you never did. . .)
Ms Yuan is so time-constrained, it's like a gimmicky version of Around the World in 80 Days. One or two famous tourist sites, some cheap eats, a Michelin restaurant for the 1% travel foodies. . . 1 The Oslo ship museum is badly outclassed by the interactive, immersive living viking ship museum in Roskilde, Denmark, where you can go aboard many working ships and even sail in one, talk to the craftsmen building them and making rope, etc. 2 Oslo: the very large cemetery in city center, an oasis of green with scores of young mothers pushing double prams. As my 30-something, childless lawyer companion, near the graves of Ibsen and Munch for her frequent inhaled herbal refreshment ultimately deduced, young Norwegian women have babies *because they can.* A very telling socio-economic-demographic observation lurking just beneath the surface of bucket list fetishism. 3 Oslo City Hall: a secular cathedral with the most amazing art imaginable depicting pagan mythology in enormous soaring mosaic and carved wood. 4 Get out of Oslo: Norway is about nature, not a great capital city. 'Go on a journey with the Flåm Railway and later explore the Aurlandsfjord and the UNESCO protected Nærøyfjord. Flåm is also great for hiking and cycling.' Or get a DNT map at downtown HQ of that venerable institution (hiking is the national obsession) and take to any of dozens of trails right out of Oslo.
kas (FL)
I hope you ate some Skolebrod while you were there. My favorite food memory of Oslo.
Ex-expat (New mexico)
In 1972, the only thing one could eat in Oslo was herring, mackerel, reindeer and a kind of rice pudding. It was a stolid , quiet place as I recall.
Gaston (West Coast)
Hi - It would be great to know a bit more about Oslo's transit system (easy to use? costs? any visitor passes?) and tips for packing for the climate. I know I can look that stuff up, but some links at the end of the article would be very helpful.
Geogeek (In the Bluegrass)
The metro is very good. I was there 4 yrs ago: you could buy passes in a pavilion in front of the main train station; the national art museum was free on sundays and you could take pictures Except in the room with “The Scream”. I really want to go back.
Carole Grace (Menlo Park)
Packing for summer travel: bring layers, be prepared for intermittent rain and lots of sun, but usually not hot (except for this past May, which was unusually hot). Transit: Oslo has a fantastic transit system that can get you close to anywhere in the city you'd like to go. Buses, trams, metro and boats are all covered by the same pass which you can purchase at the central train station. Cost depends on whether you buy a pass for a day, multiple days or a week. If going to Bigdoy, you can take either a bus or a boat. The pass covers the bus to Bygdoy, but not the boat.
Cephalus (Vancouver, Canada)
One of the nicest cities in the world, packed with civil, delightful people. You really can't go without adding the National Gallery, the Viking Ship Museum and the Munch Gallery. Oslo has some lovely boutique hotels and a plethora of great places to eat. A wonderful city for walking, with excellent public transport.
The Kenosha Kid (you never did. . .)
The Bygdøy Peninsula noted by Ms Yuan for the Viking Ship Museum is a scenic, 24 minute bus ride from downtown, where the Folkemuseum and the royal summer residence are also located. Why not hop a bus, leaving town every 6 minutes or so, and swim at one of the inviting beaches on the Bygdøy bus route? Where else is a capital city's harbor so marvelously clean? But be warned, puritans, the pagan runs deep in Norway! The nude beach and the clad beach may only be demarcated by a sign in the sand!
John Ramey (Da Bronx)
A capital city with equally clean water, swimming and saunas at waters edge would be Helsinki. Oh, and Stockholm too. Step from the street into the beautiful clear water for a swim just about anywhere....
Donald Ambrose (Florida)
I have been to Oslo 4 times. It is a wonderful city in a beautiful unspoiled country that the people cherish . The food thankfully has. been influenced by the country taking in refugees, Afghani, Arab, African, and likely Americans fleeing Trump. The people are wonderful who speak perfect English. Looking forward to visiting again. Try a trip up north to see the Fjords , miles long, hundreds of waterfalls, and unmatched beauty.
NR (New York)
My husband and I were in Oslo in 2011, and we were utterly delighted by its beauty and quirkiness. We went to most of the same places as the reporter here. The Munch museum was really interesting because you got a much better sense of this painter's entire oeuvre. Ironically, our time there was beastly hot due to a heat wave. But the Norwegians were loving it because this type of weather was unusual--meanwhile, we sweated it as we climbed the steep stairway at Vigeland. One thing that surprised us--the overwhelming selection of delicious breads every morning at our Grand Hotel buffet breakfast. We would go back, and explore again for sure.
FunkyIrishman (member of the resistance)
I am impressed with your itinerary. You checked off a couple of things I would have recommended such as Frogner Park (you can spend a very leisurely afternoon walking around the massive grounds) You can also do the same around Aker brygge (the sea walk) leading up to the old fort. I would also recommend getting a pass to see all of the museums and to basically get around. One major thing I would recommend is a stroll up and down Karl Johans Gate ( a major thorough fare ) which is just a few blocks from bryggen. On one end is the royal palace ( a must see ) and down at the other is the parliament. In between ( 4 blocks or so ) is greenery and multiple shops, For further shopping, pass the parliament and keep going for a few blocks. Lastly, if you want real a real old world experience, for your overnight(s) stay then I highly recommend the Grand Hotel (also on Karl Johans Gate). The rates may be a little pricey, but the rooms can also be massive. (as they were built long ago) God Tur (good tour)
SGK (Austin Area)
Wonderful! I spent three weeks in Norway over 30 years ago, and loved it -- land of my paternal family. Oslo was sunny and cool that October. I wish I'd had someone like Jada to enlighten me way back then -- though my own self-guided wandering was ecstatic, including a happenstance viewing of the King at that time, exiting a car and walking solo into a building, stirring the people who caught a glimpse. It's a remarkable city, both serene and exciting, and this article well captures the commitment to art, food, and its unique 'weirdness.' Bergen is not as vibrant, but also a gorgeous Norwegian location. Thanks for this tour!
Bob Pond (Jakarta, Indonesia)
The Viking Ship Museum cannot be missed by anyone interested in medieval history. The ships and other artifacts on display are NOT replicas but archeological finds. While there, buy a copy of any of the very readable English language Viking history books on sale. You will discover how the Norse pillaged and traded their way from Constantinople to New Found Land — laying the genetic foundations for Russia, The Norman conquest of Britain and much of The British / Irish isles. It will draw you into a fascination with a time when life in Europe was nasty, brutish and short.