It’s Not Fake French, It’s Frenchette

Was this a three star restaurant? No, but it matched exactly what I expected from the content of the review. I think Pete gave this three stars based more on the vibe than the quality of the food. It reminded me of Les Halles, which was my favorite restaurant in the city before it closed, so I was very pleased with the meal.

The critic writes: "If these chefs learned anything from Mr. McNally, it’s that people will overlook many lapses if you feed them great French fries." Seriously? That's what it takes to get three stars? Sell average food, but as long as the fries are good, folks will put up with the lack of pizzazz in the cooking? I can get great French fries at Five Guys.

The primary photo shown with this review displays the mind-bogglingly overpriced $68 roast chicken. It looks as if someone in the kitchen grabbed a handful of greens (watercress or arugula) and just plopped it on the bird. How much is the restaurant charging for that? Are you supposed to eat it or feed it to a horse? Wells notes that the chicken doesn't taste of brine; therefore, we have to assume that the $68 charged has something to do with the lack of salt, almost as if a little less of something means you pay more. Or, are customers paying for the Le Creuset cookware used as presentation pieces? When will that bill be paid up? Also, more plopping comes from the very large maitake mushroom lying atop the pureed potatoes. This means that the bottom of the mushroom will be covered in that very same potato. There's not even a sense that the flavors belong together. I'm also pleased to see that I'm not alone in interpreting the rating in comparison with the writing. I read a two star review, not three stars. There was nothing in the review that made me want to go to this restaurant. I've had great roast chicken with that golden gloss on the skin cooked for me at grandma's house. Both of mine. It's done by cooking the bird with low heat and having olive oil rubbed on the skin. I didn't have to pay $68 and the tasteful music was played low.

To Mr. Wells, Frenchette's owners and chefs, and to all restaurant owners and chefs: The noise level and the loud music are dealbreakers, especially when you're writing about or selling a roast chicken for $68. That price almost seems like a bad joke, as if Frenchette's bosses decided to see what they could get away with for a roast chicken. Why $68? Why not $58 or $64 or $70? What made them select that price? I don't want to shout at my dining companions, not even during a mediocre meal. I don't want to be forced to listen to someone's bad taste in music, especially loud music. We won't be eating at this restaurant becase of the noise and also because nothing in this review says: You Must Go. And, as noted by many here, this reads like a two star review, if that. It certainly does not read like a three star review. If you combine the steep cost to eat and drink here, the high decibel level, and the criticisms from Mr. Wells, especially in that extended paragraph filled with complaints, this does not come across as a place about which to swoon.

Based on this review I certainly would't want to go there. If the desserts are terrible, why bother? Also, why give it three stars?

Good to see another review by Pete Wells that commends the traditional-ette restaurant. Food that "...smiles back...." is a nice description and more enjoyable than a science experiment by well meaning chefs with too many toys in their sandboxes. "...iced oysters Burgundy-style, with peppery finger-length chipolata sausages."? Isn't this a Bordeaux specialty? Perhaps a picky point but so many readers trust Mr. Wells and his reviews. Best to avoid legions of customers asking for "Burgundy style" oysters. Is it possible for a restaurant to simultaneously have so many good and bad dishes? Wells seems to lurch from accolade to damnation, leaving us with bi-polar impressions. Is he trying to extinguish any suspicion that he is beholden to Frenchette? Now that I have presumptuously written my review of his review, I'll jolt from confrontation to compliment, thanking Pete Wells for recommending that we add this delicious sounding restaurant to our list.

frenchette oysters with sausages bordeaux style not burgundy?

Pete one of your best reviews and single lines "if one of them hasn’t held the other’s head down in a pot of French onion soup by now, it’s probably never going to happen"

Mr. Wells writes "... a list of natural, biodynamic and organic wines. Not every sommelier ... knows where to find the good stuff, but he does. This means, though, that you will probably not end up drinking what you thought you wanted to drink." I am somewhat knowledgeable about wine but had no idea what 75% of the wines I looked at on the list were. I'm sure the wines are wonderful but what is one to make of this entry "AUVERGNE: PIERRE BEAUGER Pourquoi aller chercher ailleurs ce qu’on ne trouve pas sur place?, 2016 $150"? I was shocked by seeing a cru Beaujolais for $250, it was a magnum but the advantage of magnums is their better aging potential and it was a 2016. The list did spur further research and I did learn of a grape that was new to me, Romorantin.

I spent my birthday at Frenchette this past Saturday night, and it more than met my high expectations. I'm a huge "fan" of Balthazaar and Pastis, so I knew I'd love this place. Everything about it was fantastic-from the warm and wonderful staff, to the low key ambience and decor to the delicious food. As Pete Wells noted, the oysters and sausages were a delight, and the duck frites amazing. The daube-wintry though it was-was tender and authentic. Our servers went out of the way for us-even comp-ing a dessert when the one I'd ordered wasn't available. This is my ew favorite place in the City, and we'll be returning next month. Bravo, Team Frenchette!

Brouillade in slide No. 4: why is it "so time consuming to make" ? One would think that the time needed to make partly liquid scrambled eggs is less than for fully fried.

Dear Pete, I am an avid reader of your reviews. However, I think your three-star review of Frenchette is dead wrong. Perhaps you were charmed by the staff. They are attentive and pleasant. But you can’t eat the waiters and there lies the problem. The food. The four of us started with amuses. The oeuf dur mayonnaise was not the runny egg promised, but more hard boiled. The blowfish was like an overboiled octopus. The salt cod had no flavor. The only bright spot was the oddly presented mortadella, under snowflakes of cheese. You praised the restaurant for including the brouillade. I would have preferred scrambled eggs from a diner. Finally we ordered the calf’s liver. Again a disappointment. By the time we were on the main course the noise levels were growing frighteningly loud. When dessert came the room was louder than a 747 jet engine, an AC/DC concert and a traffic jam in the Holland Tunnel, combined. The pain was so excruciating that all we could do is cover our ears, curl up in a fetal position on the banquette and pray that the waiter would present the bill. We paid, stumbled out to the street and stood shell shocked as if it was the aftermath of a bombing. But it didn’t end there because my wife and I shared the toilet bowl most of the night, vomiting. What a romantic way to drop $500 in an evening. Our companions are not answering our texts or emails today. I don’t blame them, but I’m wondering if I should be calling the admissions at the local hospitals.

The Times (Wells) give them 3 * Amazing. The brouillade with snails was bland and did not have the rich egg taste that I love with French style eggs. The duck had nice skin but the meat was not gamey or beefy. It was too soft and kind of "mushy." The frites were a big disappointment. Bland and not worth eating more and two or three of them. The terrine was so so, and didn't entice me for a second bite. The celtuce with cheese was a gloppy mess without redeeming deliciousness. Compared to the potato galette at Minetta, it was not good. The mille-feuille lacked taste or deliciousness. The only dish we had that had taste that we liked was the rotisserie lobster. The dishes lacked seasoning, salt especially. How Wells could rave about this is a mystery. This is a viewed shared by my dinner companion who has a much more refined palate than mine. We both gave the meal a 6.5/10 the place was loud and chaotic, which I think some in the 30s love and I hate. But my opinion was based on the food. If it had been great, I would have not noticed the noise. By contrast we had a wonderful dinner at Le CouCou two nights later at half the per person price. No contest.

Interesting review, good enough to make me want to give it a try, next time I'm in NYC. Just one nit to pick: oysters served with sausages are not "Burgundy style", their Bordeaux- (bordelais) style. There are two manifestations of this style, served with chipolata sausages (like at Frenchette) or with crepinettes, sausage patties wrapped in caul fat.

I wish Mr. Wells would have mentioned more of the prices required for experiencing what he describes as a thunderously noisy restaurant. That roast chicken for two, which is $68, better be some incredible chicken. You also get pureed potatoes – the puree technique being the laziest way to present potatoes – and you get some mushrooms. Honestly, anyone who pays $68 to share a chicken needs serious food guidance. There are truly exceptional chicken flavors available throughout the five boroughs for infinitely less money. As others have written, this review is a two star critique, especially with the faults Mr. Wells finds and his comment in the capsule box about the noise. I seriously want him to explain how this place earns 3 stars. 4 stars is transcendent greatness and three stars is truly good/superb. Two stars is very good and satisfying. One star is good and could be better. No stars is poor to fair. Based on Mr. Wells review, I would call this a very good and satisfying 2 star place, noise notwithstanding. Also, why didn't he mentioned the noise, which is obviously a problem, in the actual text rather than leave it for us to ferret out?

Had dinner here and agree that it’s a wonderful experience. Consider ordering the gnocchi, tasty pillows pan seared and listed among the side dishes, as an appetizer. Perfect starter with the chicken to follow.

6PM! The humanity! Someone alert the Society for the Prevention of Early Reservations and tell them to gather their torches and pitchforks for a do-able 730PM gathering. It's almost like it's a piece of real estate with a fixed capacity and a business with an idea of how often they want to turnover their tables. Preposterous. What's a diner with no other eating options in all of NYC possibly do?

I will not spend my evening in a loud, noisy restaurant no matter how wonderful the food is.

I don't know when I can get to this TriBeCa Restaurant, but I enjoyed Pete Well's review so much I know I will. Well written, clear, complete, just what a review should be. Thanks!

I’m one of those suckers who waited for the doors to open at 5pm to ensure a seat at the bar. I was not disappointed. My advice- arrive hungry!

this is also the cleanest review written by Pete Wells in a long time. refreshing.

I never thought I would read a reference to "Warm Leatherette" in a restaurant review, but there you have it. Thanks, Pete!

Mr. Nasr and Mr. Hanson "know how to flatter New Yorkers with food that doesn’t scream for attention but that smiles back when you notice it." I don't think I've ever read a more subtle yet convincing sentence which endorses these chefs for the dishes they've created. I love how Mr. Wells described an entire roasted chicken which was juicy "without tasting of brine, a rare thing these days" or seeing "the crackle on that duck skin" and listening "to that echoing crunch on the fries". He was spot on when he said "people will overlook many lapses if you feed them great French fries". My husband can and does overlook practically everything as long as his French fries are perfect. I loved this review. It was funny, honest and a plethora of precise examples were listed as to why these two chefs have a hit on their hands and will continue to do well, in spite of the lackluster review of the dessert menu. My only regret is that I don't live in New York for if I did, "Frenchette" would be a wonderful treat on any given evening during the week.

I was surprised to see the three stars after reading the review.

Good food, especially the liver, which was the best liver I've had since 2014 at a small family-run restaurant off-the-beaten path in Venice, Italy. However, the pleasing experience of the food was permanently damaged by the horrible music being played and its overwhelmingly loud volume. Obnoxiously loud. Injuriously loud. We asked twice to have the volume reduced, but it was never done. We did not order dessert, coffee, or wine. Additionally, we shall never return. It's not 1998 and this isn't Babbo.

I liked the food, service and wine at Frenchette, but the noise level was unbearable and totally unnecessary. Either the music was way too loud or the place has done nothing for noise reduction. Either way, I sadly could not hold a conversation with the other three people at my table, so we just finished our food and left without ordering desert or more wine. Quel dommage......

I absolutely agree with the rating and the stars. The experience is exceptional all around. As a sometimes jaded New Yorker I can say with giddiness there is something new and fresh at Frenchette that’s worth trying (again and again).

I don't know about the stars, but if the photos of the roast chicken, calf's liver, eggs/snails and blowfish tails are a fair depiction of what's being served at "Frenchette" than I am all in no matter the constellation.

I know comments about how many stars are awarded are pointless, and yet, this review doesn't read like 3 stars at all. I'd love to hear if someone disagrees with me.