36 Hours in Buffalo

Jun 28, 2018 · 45 comments
Mark (Canada)
Well, they should hope there are enough American tourists to keep the place going, because recent polls indicate Canadians intend to avoid US travel in droves.
JC (California)
Sorry Duffs lovers, it’s Anchot Bat all the way, for wings and atmosphere and the location bridging East and West sides. Can we at least agree on Teds?
BrianB (Rochester, NY)
Duff's is suburban. Anchor is in the city. The article is not about Amherst.
Left Coast (California)
This is a serious, non rhetorical question: Is it the weather that has caused the migration and lack of development?
Maisha (NYC)
Now please write a 36 hour plan for Buffalo’s neighbor: Rochester. :)
Kay Bee (Upstate NY)
Thank you for changing the reference in#7 to Buff State instead of UB. Our son just completed his freshman orientation for Buff State and we took him to dinner in the Elmwood Village district. His comment for us was, "Everything I could want for college is right here."
Cecilia (texas)
I'm so happy to read this little tour of Buffalo. I'm a native New Yorker and my son lived in buffalo in the Elmwood district. They local artisans, the coffeshops, the countless number of ethnic foods, the architecture and the waterfront revival. it is a charming, fun city. I miss it!
BrianB (Rochester, NY)
"Buffalo State College" is the nickname of The State University of New York College at Buffalo. "UB" is the nickname of The State University of New York at Buffalo. Confused? Us, too.
Chris (Toronto)
Good on you, NY Times, for highlighting Buffalo’s ample charms. Buffalo, after a few tough decades, has bounced back to become a wonderful, vibrant and charming city once again.
InternationalEducator (Overseas)
Great to see Talking Leaves on this list. I spent a fair amount of time there after lunch or breakfast at Amy's Place (drinking pitchers of tea), just down the street. As a UB graduate student in the late 90s, I loved living in Buffalo and found it to be a welcoming community. The University at Buffalo was a great university and Buffalo itself (there are several colleges/universities there) is a great place to live. I met my wife there too! I also loved it's proximity to Toronto, Canada and some amazing state parks in western and central New York State. I am glad to see Buffalo getting some international attention in the NY Times Travel section.
Jim (Chicago)
We visited Buffalo for a day while on a Toronto/Niagara Falls/Finger Lakes vacation in 2007. We were amazed by the early 20th century architecture, the Albright-Knox and Daniel Burnham-designed parks, the Anchor Bar’s chicken wings, and the sense of a once grand city finally rediscovering itself. We regretted that we’d only planned one day and hope to return for a longer visit the next time. One addition to your architectural landmarks worth seeing: the imposing, Deco-ish Buffalo Central Terminal, once the New York Central’s grand train station with an attached office tower.
jvc (nyc)
Olmstead designed the park system....Daniel Burnham the Ellicott Square building in downtown Buffalo.
Trish (NY State)
Thank you, NY Times, for your article on our fair city. Well done - but I have to say you've only touched the surface. There’s so much more. The emerging "Buffalo Niagara Medical Campus" with billions of dollars in investment and development; the many, many other great "wing joints" in addition to the Anchor Bar; the wonderful lakefront property and beaches on both Lake Erie (U.S. and Canadian side) and Lake Ontario where many WNY residents have cottages and Summer homes; multiple four year colleges and the SUNY Center (main campus) at Buffalo; Delaware Park and the surrounding neighborhoods; the Hertel strip; the bidding “wars” on houses for sale; the very friendly and welcoming people that live here….., etc….
PJ (SF Bay Area)
Two Buffalo anecdotes: I was at a gathering in Colorado with a friend from Buffalo, where I grew up. There were about 40 people in the room, so we Buffalonians comprised 5% of the population there. While chatting with one of the caterers, we discovered she was from Buffalo too. Now we’re up to 7.5% of the population. My friend got excited. “Let’s have somebody take a picture of the three of us from Buffalo.” She approached one of the other caterers, told him about the remarkable statistic, and asked him to take our picture. Bingo! Turns out he’s from Buffalo too, so the four of us comprised a commanding 10% of the population in the room. It may be a small city but we’re everywhere, spreading warm Western New York vibes. And Overheard at Duffs one frigid January evening: A young woman on her cell says to her friend on the other end “What do you mean it’s too cold to come out? You live in Buffalo — Get over it!”
Jim (Seattle)
"Turns out he’s from Buffalo too, so the four of us comprised a commanding 10% of the population in the room. " So the Buffalo really DO roam.
Ed M (Charleston SC)
people from Buffalo are everywhere, tells you what's happening to Buffalo and NY state.
Catherine Berlin (Buffalo, New York)
What's with the hate? It's a great place, even if not for everyone, just like South Carolina.
Ellen Tabor (New York City)
Thank you for highlighting my beloved hometown. Although I haven't lived there in decades, I've been back twice in the past couple of years, and am happy to see Buffalo thriving and no longer the butt of national jokes. Please consider other architectural wonders that Buffalo has on offer, besides the Martin House: Kleinhans Music Hall (Saarinen), Temple Beth Zion (Abramowitz; if you like brutalism, you'll love TBZ; also, windows by none other than Ben Shahn), the Historical Society, one of the few buildings left from the Pan-American Exposition of 1902 (don't miss the Apostolic Clock). Forest Lawn Cemetery is part of Olmstead's design, and some pretty famous people are buried there. Buffalo's tree-lined parkways (also Olmstead) and stately mansions are a wonder. As the commercial used to say, Boost Buffalo, it's Good For You! Just doing my part...
Elizabeth O’Neil (Albany, NY)
Buffalo Guaranty Building by Louis Sullivan, teacher ofFrank Lloyd Wright.
Gasper Tirone (Palm Harbor Florida)
Thank you so much for adding to the historical and cultural experience of Buffalo, it sis also home to great schools and Colleges UB , Canisius, Niagara University etc. At outage we don't miss the winters but for the youngsters there are plenty of Winter sport activities , Buffalo has a great cultural heritage , Native Americans , and the immigrants who built the Erie Canal and the Needle trades in Buffalo and Rochester Buffalo the City of Light
redinvt (tucson)
What about Bocci's pizza, Ted's hot dogs and Anderson custard?
Talon (Washington, DC)
Well thank goodness the headboards at the mental institution-turned-hotel are padded! What a bizarre detail to include.
PJ (SF Bay Area)
Buffalo is an interesting city for anyone interested in early modern architecture. The city has a number of old “skyscrapers” that are some of the first built anywhere. Take a tour of them when you visit. Before you go, read Lauren Belfer’s book “City of Light.” It’s a fascinating novel of Buffalo in its glory days more than a century ago, when it was the first city in America to be electrified. Interesting note: Belfer points out that when light bulbs replaced gas jets in the home, people had a longer and better night life: the gaslights had sucked oxygen from the air putting inhabitants to sleep quite early. And BTW, Buffalo was a very good city to grow up in back in the 1950s. Looks like some of the luster is returning, no?
FRAN APERONES (CURRENTLY RENO NV)
Born & raised Faithful Buffalonian. But we BOTH MISSED what I discovered in 2017 visit back! ONE OF THE BEST OF BUFFALO -- ITS MAGICAL BEAUTIFUL MARVELOUS BOTANICAL GARDENS IN SOUTH BUFFALO!! I am so glad I took a DAY THERE!! IT SHOULD BE ON EVERYONE'S BUCKET LIST! I'm 74 in very poor health & this is my most wonderful memory of Buffalo! DON'T MISS IT!!!!!!
Rugosa (Boston, MA)
Oh no! I grew up in Buffalo when it was a failing industrial city and have been keeping it in mind as an affordable place to retire. Now that the hipsters have found it, it's going to be out of reach.
Curtiss Taylor (San Francisco, CA)
The California Buffalo ex-pats loved the Buffalo article. We may not move back but we love our city and are happy for it's resurgence.
C. Holmes (Rancho Mirage, CA)
What? No mention of Allentown, Buffalo's own little version of Greenwich Village? This residential district just north of downtown is one any city would covet. It's filled with restaurants, bars, shops and great little restored 19th century houses in a truly walkable neighborhood. It's the type of environment many cities seek to re-create but exists organically in Buffalo.
Jean (Anjou)
Looking good, Buffalo. My hometown has gone through a lot of changes since I left in the 70’s. Now thinking there are some great reasons to revisit.
SGK (Austin Area)
My first and only trip to Buffalo, decades ago, included a visit to the Albright-Knox -- and if that was all I had experienced, it permanently put Buffalo in the bank of stellar personal memories. I recall being mesmerized, transported, and dazed by the collection, loving the time spent there. While I might not pick Buffalo for its winters (living in Texas), it is a tremendous city, with this museum a unique treasure. Thanks for this tribute.
redinvt (tucson)
What, No beef on Weck or Gennie Cream Ale?
Ellen White (Seattle, WA)
While happy to see that the city near where I grew up is being revitalized, I was disturbed by the fact that the state mental hospital has been converted into a luxury hotel. As someone whose parent survived being housed in that mental institution in the 1960's, I find it upsetting that this former house of horrors is now a place where the rich can go indulge themselves. Perhaps it would have been better to turn it into a place of learning, a museum or a place where psychiatrists could be trained in the humane treatment of the mentally ill. Our society has such a long way to go in how we care for the mentally ill. Maybe I'm too sensitive given my family's history, but this seems callous and disrespectful of the misery that existed in those walls for so long...
Jessica M (Buffalo, NY)
Hi Ellen! The community of Buffalo (including many people with have family who either worked or spent time at the hospital) rallied for the preservation of the Nationals Historic Landmark building. Hotel Henry (which isn’t a luxury property) makes a point to welcome the community in, as their comfortable, to explore and use the space, often collaborating with local business owners. Part of the property is currently being turned into an architectural museum with information on the buildings’ history and other architectural destinations in the area. There are historic tours about the hospital that run throughout the spring, fall, and summer and the hotel owners are actively trying to work with local entities to use their platform to help those with mental illness and end the stigma. It’s an incredible new use of the space!
Kay Bee (Upstate NY)
We just stayed there this past weekend. By no means are we rich. And I too have a grandfather who was in an institution. I think the hotel treats its history respectfully.
C (Upstate NY)
Oh please! The hospital now has a new, positive life. Celebrate its new incarnation.
Rick (Summit)
What’s bringing Buffalo back is that it’s less associated with New York City 400 miles away than with Toronto just across the border. Buffalo is people from Toronto come to shop, catch a plane or export into the US. Being part of the 6 million person Greater Toronto Area revitalized Buffalo after New York City and Albany turned their backs.
Patrick (New York City)
Buffalo’s comeback is certainly long-overdue and the result of more than one factor. Certainly it benefits from its proximity to Canadian markets and the support of its good neighbors that shop It’s stores and takes advantage of its entertainment events and airport. These good folks contribute both revenue through sales and the general tax base. I don’t think it should ever be overlooked that the re-development of Buffalo & Upstate NY has been in large part due the concentrated political effort and political will of recent State and Federal leadership. Most notably, former Senator Clinton & current Governor Cuomo. Both highlighted the urgency for action and the Governor’s commitment to the Buffalo Billion really has spearheaded this renaissance. That Buffalo Billion is truly a gift from the people of the state of New York (including Buffalonians!) that is directly rebuilding this lovely city and lovely community. Once rebuilt, the economic impact that a re-vitalized Buffalo will have on the rest of upstate will undoubtedly spur the revitalization of communities throughout upstate.
Ellen Tabor (New York City)
Buffalo is my home town. I'm so glad others will have a chance to marvel at what used to be one of America's big small cities, the City of Good Neighbors, the Queen City. Of course the article sends visitors to see the Martin House; if you have time, consider visiting other architecturally significant buildings, including Kleinhans Music Hall (Saarinen), Temple Beth Zion (Abramowitz with stained glass windows by Ben Shahn), the Buffalo Historical Society (remaining from the Pan-American Exposition of 1902 with a wondrous apostolic clock), the stately arcaded parkways and Forest Lawn Cemetery (Olmsted) and America's only art deco City Hall. Did you know the grain elevator was actually invented in Buffalo? Now you can see how they worked and how they changed American agriculture and prosperity. And besides chicken wings, the iconic meal is Beef on Weck, which goes much farther back in Buffalo's history. I haven't lived there for decades, but, as we used to say, Boost Buffalo, it's Good For You.
Jeremiah Crotser (Houston)
Buffalo is a great city with a lot to offer for its size, especially in the arts. I would trust this article more if it had suggested Duffs for wings.
AAL (Montclair, NJ)
Was thrilled to see this feature... then I saw you list the Anchor Bar for wings. Don’t be so lazy, NYTimes! I expected more from you. Ask a real Buffalonian where to get wings and they will tell you LaNova for BBQ wings or Duff’s for standard Buffalo wings. I was born in and grew up in Buffalo and went to school down the street from Anchor Bar for 8 years, but I went there a grand total of one underwhelming time. Pizza is another debate altogether. Buffalo pizza is amazing though I’ve grown accustomed to NY style. I cannot convince my parents to eat pizza when they visit me- after experiencing decades of the goodness of chewy thick Buffalonian pizza crust, thin crust is definitely not their jam.
Woof (NY)
Population of Buffalo NY 1950 580,132 Decline sets in as globalization proceeds 1970 462,768 1990: 328, 117 1995: 313, 088 2000: 292, 374 2005 : 275, 938 2010: 261, 348 2015 : 258, 351 latest available 2016 : 256, 902 Note that this is LESS than half of it's 1950 population And Buffalo continuous to lose population . More than half of the children in Buffalo – 54 percent – lived in poverty in 2015, up 7 percentage points from the year before, according to census estimates from the federal government. Buffalo was wrecked by globalization - the some phenomena enriched NY Cities financial service industry. The CITY of NY has more billionaires than every COUNTRY in the world save for China. But it's elite is not aware of what goes on in the rest of the State More Data https://statisticalatlas.com/place/New-York/Buffalo/Household-Income
Perspective (Bangkok)
This is simplistic. It fails to note the neglect on the part of local elites, from the 1950s onward, to prepare the city for economic change. The lack of engineers for the aeronautical industry, the opening of the Welland Canal, and other factors served as early warning signs of the need to adapt. Had local elites in the Queen City met that need, Buffalo would have weathered "globalization" far better.
Yair (Buffalo)
These statistics fail to consider population movement to the suburbs, which have grown proportionally in that time period. Anyone from the area would know this.
Yid (NY)
That population is still there, the regional population remains similar to its 1950's population. Buffalo was suburbanized and its tight municipal borders make this statistic seem more shocking than it is. (Not that it's been an economic powerhouse by any means, just not the absolute dystopian wreck this stat implies.) All of the suburbs gained population considerably during that time. Also, "poverty" is relative. When rent is relative to income, it matters little if the average income is $30,000 and rent is $600/mo or if average income is $120,000 and rent is $2,400/mo. It doesn't mean the place where people aren't classified as "poor" are any worse off.
Steve L (Chestnut Ridge, NY)
Your map still is calling it the Martin Darwin House.
Tom Flynn (Buffalo NY)
Actually it's neither the Martin Darwin house NOR the Martin House. It's the Darwin Martin House. Darwin was the first name of the wealthy Buffalo businessman who commissioned Frank Lloyd Wright to design him two residences, the one in the city described in the article and also Graycliff, a lakeview mansion on the bluff a few miles south of Buffalo.