Place 12 of 52: In Denver, a Mile High but Down to Earth

The gentrification of RiNo Art District was particularly interesting to us. As former journalists and operators of Denver Graffiti Tour, we've found that the commercialization of street art and the gentrification of the area are not parallel narratives. These stories often intersect. The art down there is beautiful -- both the big street pieces and the undiscovered alleyway works -- and it's become so much more popular. This has benefits and drawbacks for the artists. They now get paid for something they didn't just 8 years ago. But they're getting paid by the very businesses that have contributed to driving up the real estate prices and pushing out the very artists that first made this place cool. As one artist told us, it's "wallpaper for gentrification." As with so much of change, it's positive and negative. We try to tell that story on our tour.

For God's sake, why would you stay at a hotel so obviously engaging in unethical business behavior (the Maven)? They can't add an 'amenity fee' to the daily rate? Can you spell d-e-c-e-p-t-i-v-e? Makes you wonder what else they steal from consumers... Other than that, I love your writing.

Interesting article. There's an error, though: RTD stands for the Regional Transportation District, not Regional Transportation Denver. It's one of the examples of the remarkable regional governmental cooperation that has made the Denver metro area such a success.

not a single mention of the overwhelming homeless situation thats evident from every location mentioned here. its incredibly sad. i bet a mention of this in the NYT and other papers covering cool cities might light a fire under our leaders to work to improve the situation. how many homeless camps did the author wade through just to see the sites?

Some real off the beaten path ideas for people who want to do more than see places that have been gentrified in the past 5 years by people from California mostly: NOT RiNo Hidden gems- Cherry creek trail sunken into Speer BLVD Tattered cover, the East Colfax one next to Twist & Shout (also awesome). Santa Fe Blvd’s 1st Friday, Denver’s REAL art district. Mexican food or Pho on South Federal If you see everything from the NYT article AND everything on this list you will see the true Denver and how it has changed.

Shhh. Let's not advertise our Blue and blue-skyed island (surrounded by a sea of red) to the masses, we are doing quite well already.

We just returned from a four-day stay May 9 to 13 in Denver. Although there were spectacular things to see, such as at the Denver Museum of Art, the American Museum of Western Art, the History Colorado Center and the many wonderful works of public sculpture such as the Blue Mustang by Luis Jimenez out at the airport, and the "I See What You Mean" giant blue bear by Lawrence Argent at the Colorado Convention Center -- NONE of which received attention in this column -- our experience of downtown Denver was negatively affected by the scores of homeless people wandering the streets. They filled the Civic Center Park, where skateboarders yelled four letter words as they crashed off the concrete stairs, and many were actively hallucinating to include people illegally splashing in the public fountain, and dazed people covered with skin sores hauling their backpacks and tow luggage of personal possessions plodding down the sidewalks. I was accosted verbally and sworn at by such people twice; as were other sightseers trying to take photos of the fantastic works of public art sculpture. The police in an SUV even pulled into Civic Center Park, driving on the concrete walkway -- but did nothing to deter this behavior. For these reasons, I will never recommend to anyone that they take the time to visit the city of Denver.

I was raised in the Denver metropolitan area and lived there for 29 years. I returned yesterday from a visit with my 84 year old mother who still lives in my childhood home. I took her for a tour of the neighborhoods referenced in this article on Saturday afternoon. I found Denver to be an exciting place compared to the city I left 24 years ago. Most certainly, Denver is no longer the dusty cow town of my youth. Unfortunately, familiar problems accompany this excitement - unrelenting traffic, suburban sprawl, and increasingly expensive housing to name three. My mother was less enthusiastic about the changes the city has undergone, channeling my father's point of view that Colorado had been "Californicated" (although it bears to note that he was a purist - one could not be a true Coloradoan without a cowboy hat and boots and a distrust of outsiders especially Californians and Texans). Good luck Colorado - it may be wise to remember Danny Holien's advice in his 1972 song entitled "Colorado" - "Feel the sorrow of tomorrow before you go very far." Perhaps it is already too late.

As a 70-year-old who has lived in Denver for 44 years, I appreciate and despise much of the growth. I love your description of the hordes of yuppies as "forlorn and beautiful" which I attribute to too much artisanal beer, pot, coffee, food, clothing, etc. I have outgrown much of coolness but as yet have not been priced out, forced to move to some small town on the plains on my modest retirement income. I do love Colorado, best climate and green chili in the world...

Jada, I've been critical of this 52 Places Traveler column in the past, but I very much appreciate this piece. I'm travelling to Denver soon, and your suggestions look outstanding. I appreciate the structure of this, for me to take with me as a reference, and I love the pics too, particularly the prom couples you found. Thanks very much!

I had the good fortune to be stationed in Denver back in the early 1980's at the now gone Lowry Air Force Base- the Wings Over the Rockies Museum is on a small parcel of that installation. Unlike many military bases that are well outside of town, Lowry was in Denver- just outside the Quebec Street gate. The school I attended was training to be an Army Signal Corps Photographer (MOS 84B) and we went on trips all over the city and surrounding area to learn our trade. So much has changed in and around the city- Elitch Gardens is long gone from West Highland, Lowry AFB and Fitzsimmons AMC are gone, the original Mile High Stadium & McNichols Arena is gone, Stapleton is long gone, the establishment of LoDo, etc. Fortunately the mountains to the west of the city beckon and are as amazing as ever, but some of the then dying Mining Town have been turned over to the Gambling Industry. Do yourself a favor and take a side trip to Oh My God Road. Be careful, but take the trip- you can thank me later. http://www.dangerousroads.org/north-america/usa/728-oh-my-god-road-usa.html