The Suffering and Spirit of San Juan

Mar 20, 2018 · 56 comments
Miriam (Brooklyn)
Thank you so much for this moving article, I was born in Puerto Rico and appreciate the Times' coverage of the situation there. Gracias!
Proud Illinoisan (McHenry, Illinois)
The reason people laugh so much when singing and dancing La Pelúa is because it actually refers to a person's crotch. La pelúa literally means the hairy one. You are asking the person to move his/her pelvis. As an outsider, maybe no one had the nerve to reveal such a naughty detail to the reporter.
JH (NJ)
Just returned on Tuesday from a spectacular trip to San Juan and Vieques. It was beautiful. There were no crowds. We had power and wifi. And the islands desperately need our support. There will never be a better time to visit Puerto Rico. Drop everything and go.
PianoTrumpeter (Manhattan, NYC)
The devastation brought on Puerto Rico by monster storms Irma and Maria showed us all two sides of a politically incomprehensible nation, culturally-rich politically-aware people of the world. First, an incompetent ever-corrupt government, even in the midst of arguably the deepest crisis of the island, was nakedly watched in all of its Cantinflas-nesque behavior. Second, Boricuas once again showed their true essence by a heightened sense of brotherhood, community and heroism. This tragedy has made clear once again, like with any other tragedy around the world, that as a people we need to selflessly band together and rise again like a Phoenix. God bless us all!
Randy Bush (Pittsburgh, PA)
Thank you for this series. While I've enjoyed Travel articles and Frugal Traveler articles before, I am a fan of these postings from the "Top 52 Destinations." I especially appreciate the human-interest, "real person" encounters and how those interactions truly make the destination come alive. Thank you, Jada, for your honesty and openness to seeing the people at the heart of each location. (By the way, my favorite spot in Puerto Rico is quiet Culebra.)
Kirsten (Boston)
Another great article! I am really enjoying this series, and excited for the next addition.
Neel Lahiri (Vancouver)
So glad to see that Ms. Yuan has hit her stride after a bit of a rocky start. The difference between her previous pieces and this one is that she manages to capture the essence of her destination, such that I have somewhat of an idea of the flavor of the place. Keep it up!
Oceanviewer (Orange County, CA)
Oh my, Donald would faint if he thought that people could actually enjoy a colorful and diverse culture where skin hues range from pale to dark; and individuality of expression is welcomed. He prefers Norwegians, or their lookalikes, living in lookalike neighborhoods and marching lockstep to “lookalike” ideas of what it means to be a real American……. a lookalike and boring conformist who insists that he/she is actually an individualist.
Unfortunate (Mumbai )
People do rebuild their lives after natural disasters - be it hurricane,floods,earthquake,or even a tsunami. The human spirit is limitless. Even divorcees rebuild their lives. Handicapped people also celebrate life - the best example is the late cosmologist Mr.Stephen Hawking. He was a big inspiration to the handicapped people. Such stories inspire people to rebuild their lives after natural disasters,and help them in preparing to face the next natural disaster. It is interesting to read how people help each other in such disasters. There are also people who take advantage of other people,like it happened during Katrina cyclone - women were molested in refuge shelters. Life goes on,when spirited people are around,and rebuild their lives. Such experiences should be the subjects of study in educational institutes,and one can even do a Ph.D.
Aileen Pena-Djordjevic (Mahopac, NY)
Gracias! You captured "mi gente's spirit. Que Viva Puerto Rico!
Mon Ray (Skepticrat)
Without a doubt, the people of Puerto Rico have wonderful spirit and great resilience. They are taking steps to rebuild their hurricane-shattered island through self-help and with the aid of hundreds of millions of dollars from the US government. Unfortunately, the extent of the damage and the slow pace of recovery in areas away from San Juan are such that many thousands of Puerto Ricans have had to relocate to the mainland temporarily and, in some cases, permanently. From all accounts the services and facilities in San Juan appear to be returning to near-normal levels, but much of the rest of the island is still in recovery mode, with limited services, facilities and sometimes even no or limited electricity. Therefore, as someone who has made many enjoyable trips to Puerto Rico, and who is fed up with the terrible winter weather in the northeast US, I am afraid that at the moment I must consider spending my hard-earned dollars traveling to equally warm but less problematic locations. However, Puerto Rico is definitely on my list for next winter. Viva Puerto Rico!
SDM (Santa Fe)
An inveterate traveler for most of my adult life (work and pleasure), I continue to be impressed by how skilfully Ms Yuan evokes the places and people in her writing while maintaining a travel schedule that is frankly impossibly tight requiring time on the ground in each place that is laughably short. The fact that time and again, she is invited into complete strangers' homes proves that she is the right person for this Herculean task. This piece brought me to tears. And I loved the "Despacito" video - apparently I am nearly the last person on earth to view it.
Expat (London)
Sorry, I know it's not a competition but just saw the video of "Despacito" after reading this article (great article BTW), lol! Better late than never, eh?
DAT (San Antonio)
Ms. Jada, thank you, thank you for a wonderful piece. More than a traveler you are a discoverer and amazing observer of beauty and human nature. I enjoyed your portrayal of my island and I am more excited to travel there this summer. Puerto Rico will never be the same, but it will be better. Thank you again!
ME Sanchez (Puget Sound, Washington)
that you got to hang out at Plaza Roosevelt at Cooperativa Madre Tierra's Sunday Market, and met the inimitable Rafael de Leon.. You sure dialed into the local progressive scene.. Thank you for highlighting the movers in our island's social sustainable entrepreneur scene.. In the process, at the Fiesta, you most likely met Tara Besosa, of the Brigada Solidaria.. If you didn't, you need to book a trip back to PR, because the #queerKitchenBrigade is changing the way eco sustainable pros are organizing to raise the organic farms devastated by the storms.. And, that's a whole other story to be told.. #blessings
Pat (Colorado Springs)
So, is Trump still doing an A+ on Puerto Rico recovery? I love my fellow America citizens, and I am still appalled at the lack of response from their country to reinstall all power and help all of our people. I want the people of Puerto Rico to know that I am still bashing the US government to help them. Hey, I live in Colorado, but we are all US citizens. I will keep trying with this administration.
Carmen Lebron (Jersey City)
Thank you for an awesome piece. I’ve gone home 3 times since Maria. I’m humbled by the resiliency and grit of my people. When most would cry, island Puertorricans dry their tears quickly, roll up their sleeves, get to work, and then celebrate. Celebrate that they’re alive, that there’s food, that families and neighbors can come together and enjoy the beautiful sunny blue sky and starry nights. They patiently wait for the power to come back. Patiently deal with no running water. My people find a way. So let’s help them build by continuing to visit. It will forever be la isla del encanto.
Andrea (Montclair, NJ)
Just got back tonight from San Juan, our first trip to Puerto Rico, but I hope not our last! My husband did the Ironman 70.3, amid a competitors' field less than half the size of previous years. It was a quick trip so we were mostly in Old San Juan and Condado (which is where the race took place), but we did spend a day on a service project in nearby Toa Baja, which the Ironman Foundation sponsored with a local relief organization, Buena Vibra. The town finally got power back that very day; coincidence—or the cameras and over a hundred volunteers descending? It's appalling that six months after the hurricane, one-quarter of the island is still without power; these Americans have been forgotten.
Julioantonio (Los Angeles)
Well, Cuba, a place supposedly much poorer than Puerto Rico, without any aid from the USA, recovered much quickly than PR. Electricity was restored, the roads were cleared and life has returned to normal, even if poor as always. Cubans organized themselves and went to work immediately. And no one is clamoring for Cuba to become a US state. Maybe Puerto Ricans should start thinking of becoming a sovereign nation. Perhaps that way, they will be able to trade with and receive assistance from many other countries, plus learning to depend on their own efforts. And Cuba is under a never ending embargo. Take Marco Rubio to Puerto Rico, maybe he will be able to help. Yeah, right. He thinks he is being "helpful" by asking Trump to be "tough" on Cuba and invade Venezuela, all at the same time.
claypoint2 (New England)
People in Cuba have no guarantees of freedom of expression, of the press, of assembly, of travel. Not many Puerto Ricans - including pro-independence folks - would countenance those restrictions if they had to live with them in real time. Never mind that Puerto Rico has been a deeply consumerist culture for several decades, and there would be no viable way for island residents to maintain their current standard of living (and spending) if theirs was a separate economy... especially if they lost favor with their main trading partner, the U.S.... which accounts for 90% of Puerto Rico's exports. And never mind how hard it would be for a small island-nation to negotiate international treaties on its own. At any rate, if you see Cuba as a desirable ideal, I suggest that you spend a couple of weeks there.
tried (Chicago)
Puerto Rico was directly hit by hurricane Maria, going inland. Not sure if you are disparaging the people because that's how it sounds. Different effect different outcomes.
claypoint2 (New England)
Being well acquainted with the dynamics of the places involved - Puerto Rico and Cuba - my read of Julioantonio's post is that it's not intended as a disparagement of the people of Puerto Rico (probably the contrary)... although, on its face, it's certainly possible to read it that way. To my eye, it appears as an effort to advocate for Puerto Rican independence. The fact that the comment could be read in such different ways may reveal something, I think, about the substance of the underlying idea.
ejw (San Juan & UpstateNY)
You captured spirit of Puerto Ricans without denigrating them... plus you found your way to Watusi bar. Few tourists make it there. They freak out when they 're out of Cobdado. Nice job, very nice job. Liiving through this as a,winter resident, is,like having visited Warsaw in 1940. You see the beauty in people..survivors.. but they 're all waiting for the next blast. Here the spirits are underpinned by anxiety and a sad recent past, but Puerto Ricans are,practical people...and know,how to dance through the grief. sometimes I want to cry.
Estaban Goolacki (boulder)
I've vacationed in P.R. four times. All that has been said about the island and the people is absolutely true. Too bad there are not more jobs. Why did the pharmaceutical companies withdraw? Mucho gusto.
ejw (San Juan & UpstateNY)
They withdrew because the federal tax breaks were rescinded. Congress rules Puerto Rico...a vestige of colonialism, which we,Americans,don't like to admit.
Indira (NYC)
Absolutely true, but I disagree with you on one point. It's isn't a vestige of colonialism. It is colonialism. The US can call Puerto Rico whatever it wants, but the reality is that we are subject to federal law without any voting representation in Congress.
Oliver Fine (San Juan)
The old solution to fix Puerto Rico is for it to become a state. In order for that, thousands of Puerto Ricans will have to march on Washington and get arrested for demanding equality, just as African-Americans did during the 1960's civil rights movement. Tax incentives for companies to come in and build factories and call centers will have to be legislated. This article, though quaint and charming, does not address the seriousness of the problems here at all.
Miriam (Long Island)
Although the citizens of Puerto Rico cannot vote in their own country, those who have relocated to the mainland certainly can. I urge all of them to register to vote NOW so they can vote in November...we need their votes!
Jay David (NM)
San Juan is okay. But get out and see ALL of Puerto Rico, including Vieques.
craincaleb (Brooklyn, NY)
You take such great pictures! What camera are you using?
Fred White (Baltimore)
Needless to say, Trump's arrogant, lazy, racist neglect of Puerto Rico makes W's bumbling disaster in NOLA look like the height of competence and compassion.
DEVO (Phiily)
typical lazy comment - PR was a disaster before the hurricane hit and basically wipes the island bare. You comment is an insult to the men and women who are working 16 hour days trying to help PR recover and rebuild.
LTM (NYC)
Gratitude to all who are working tirelessly yes however, not to lose sight of the forest for the trees, 900,000 Americans still without electricity 6months post Maria is a profound failure of this "Administration". We all know where the buck stops. Forgotten? Yes. Disrespected? Yes. The kind of resolve and spirit found here is without compare. Amo a mi gente.
James (US)
Clearly you have no idea of the poor state of PR's infrastructure prior to the storm, not to mention the corruption.
Mark Holland (Danville, Va)
Jada, we are heading to San Juan in a couple of weeks, do you have any recommmendations on tools to bring to be able to be of use to the people there. Thanks
Peter (Puerto Rico)
Just bring money and spend it supporting the local economy.
ejw (San Juan & UpstateNY)
contact San Mateo parish in Santurce (San juan) and,they 'll advise you.
RL (Philadelphia)
Beautifully written. Evokes a real place and time the spirit of a people. Thank you.
brian (commack)
I hope Puerto Rico considers joining the United States as a state after it is able to move past the hurricane. It would be great for this island and commonwealth to be an equal partner in our American experience with its rights and responsibilities.
anon (Ohio)
It is up to Congress to make Puerto Rico a state.
Oliver Fine (San Juan)
Puerto Rico would go for it. The US doesn't want it.
Indira (NYC)
This is actually an issue of deep division on the island. I think it's a bit simplistic to say Puerto Ricans would "go for it."
Lynn in DC (um, DC)
Good write-up. I am glad to see that Ms. Berrios and her neighbors took matters into their hands instead of waiting for the government because they would have waited forever.
Vincent (New York)
I am very grateful for The Times to keep writing about Puerto Rico. It’s hard to imagine from here how much the hurricanes have impacted people’s lives at so many levels and for so long. Your reporting is accurate both in discribing this impact as well as showing the resilience, strength, and generosity of the Puerto Rican People. Puerto Rico is and will continue to be an amazing place to visit if you seek culture, arts, music, incredible food, beautiful nature and scenery and the friendliest people.
marian (Philadelphia)
I spent some time in San Juan many years ago and loved it. I plan to visit again in 2018. The beautiful people of Puerto Rico, their historic culture, the lovely beaches, fantastic rainforest and sophisticated cuisine all make it a fantastic place to visit. I love Puerto Rico and urge others to visit and spend money and enjoy! Puerto Rico needs their tourism restored but don't do it just out of pity or charity. You will gain much more than you spend!
Margarita Diaz (East village)
Thank you for this piece. It is exactly how I think of my island: filled with amazing people who are not about to be defeated by Hurricane Maria.
Allan MacGillivray (Ottawa)
Great piece. Having just gotten back from 10 days in Puerto Rico, I can assure you that San Juan is fully operational, though I didn't get outside the city. Don't hesitate to go - the food is fantastic, the city beautiful and the vibe is very cool.
REM (Olathe, KS)
San Juan is my hometown, and even though I haven't lived there for almost 40 years, I still love the food, the culture, the music, the people! Like most Puerto Ricans, I still cry when I think of all the suffering my family and friends have gone through. But I went there in February and had a great time. I encourage others to go, but do plan ahead as the hotels that are open get booked early. Puerto Rico needs the tourist dollars!
Rtd (Orange County, NY)
Thank you for sharing your beautiful and sensitive story of your trip. While the island inhabitants are sincere and hospitable ambassadors for Puerto Rico, they are also Americans we should be proud of. They exhibit the best of us: the dogged determination, the positive can-do attitude, acknowledging that they may be underdogs in the fight and yet knowing that by creating a real community approach to solving difficult problems they can succeed, and, finally, reaching out to each other and lending a hand during the worst of times. These are attributes true Americans have demonstrated over and over again during this country's long history. By their actions they are showing us that they are Americans at their core. And in response, we should answer: "Yes, you are... and you deserve better."
Antonio Scarlatti (Los Angeles)
As some who visited Puerto Rico every summer during childhood, thank you for this short and sweet homage to the spirit of the people of the island. The festive nature of the people and their humility appears to be intact after such an ordeal. Walking the streets of San Juan in solitude sounds heavenly.
PianoTrumpeter (Manhattan, NYC)
Old San Juan is where the governor’s mansion is at. Not only that, it’s where the port for gigantic cruises is located for droves of tourist to stop for a while and walk about the historic city. Security is high with police nearly at every corner. Your comment isn’t fair and suggest lack of knowledge about this wonderful little city...
paul (st. louis)
We just came back from the island. There were some issues, but we found San Juan mostly functional. Rural areas were sometimes struggling, and many traffic lights were out, but we had no difficulties seeing amazing sights and beautiful beaches. I strongly encourage people to visit the island. you will not regret it.
gacllc (Columbus, OH)
What a heart-warming and accurate portrayal of the hospitality of the Puerto Rican people. You brought the joy and spirit of their culture to life.
jmd (Washington, DC)
Compared to the article about Vieques this is a breath of fresh air. I appreciate the fact that you spoke to Puerto Ricans and wove their views about Maria into your piece. Seeing Puerto Rico before and after the hurricane is truly an experience. I am glad you had the opportunity not to only see the sights but to get to know of the best things about Puerto Rico: its people.
Sarah Stumme (Skokie)
Love your beautiful and honest article. The spirit of the Puerto Rican people shines through. Thank you for sharing.
candy pratts price (New York )
Great article on Puerto Rico. You can hear the great moments of the island , the music, the hospitality of the people.