Yotam I'm looking forward to more of these two version recipes. I am hoping in the next one if the accessible / quicker version includes a more hard to find ingredient like currents, you could offer an alternative. I know it may not be the same, but the alternative for some of us is nothing. Yes, I have read the comments from some for people who think these are easy to find, and I'm jealous of their groceries. The reality is that many many groceries don't carry currents and I still would like to be able to cook some of Yotam's food.
I am a Ottolenghi fan as many have already expressed. Looking forward to the “everyday version” , I glanced at the nutritional value. What! Over 1000 calories for 1 serving. No can do. Possibly may consider it for an epic meal, but not “everyday”. Hope he will take that into consideration in his next column.
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Looking at the ingredients, that has to be a misprint. I can't help but think that's the calorie count for the entire dish - all 4 servings together.
I frequently see comments on NYTimes recipes saying that the nutritional information is off--this one seems to be the same. I think the problem is that they include both volume and weight measurements, leading to duplicated quantities. I copied and pasted the recipe as written into the calculator used by the Times (without editing) and got 1172 calories per serving. Editing out the weight measures gave me 621 calories per serving. If you prefer an even leaner meal, looking at the recipe, it would be easy to dramatically reduce the oil used to fry the relish (say, 1-2 TBS)--the pine nuts, capers, and olives add plenty of richness--and to bake the salmon instead of pan-searing, using only a couple teaspoons.
That said, Ottolenghi does specify that by "everyday" he means a "recipe that you can whip up quickly without breaking your back or your bank balance," nothing about the nutritional specs. Different people have different dietary needs, so one person's "everyday" nutritional requirements might be another's "epic."
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Very. Good. Point. Too many calories!
I love a good potato gratin, especially when kicked up with another vegetable. I love wild salmon, as well as lox.
However, I think I'd rather have a nice gratin, with a substantial, well-seasoned salmon filet on the side.
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I love the comments almost more than the original NYT food column. I want to try everyone's suggestions. But can someone suggest what to do about buying farm-raised salmon (which I have read is almost worse than no salmon) and is expensive versus wild salmon which would bust my food budget (and we don't eat cheap to begin with).
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Kathleen, I stopped buying farm raised salmon several years ago because of all the health issues associated with this type of salmon. Like you, I could not afford the $25 a pound sold by my local fish department for wild salmon. I now buy salmon raised in the Faroe Islands that does not have the unhealthy traits of farm raised. When it's on sale I get it for $14 a pound. If you can get it where you live I suggest giving it a try.
Some studies show higher PCB levels in farmed fish, while others suggest that wild salmon, which spend part of their lives in PCB-contaminated rivers, have even higher levels. There is no clear evidence that PCBs cause cancer in humans, and most authorities advise that the health benefits of salmon, wild or farmed, far outweigh the small potential risk of harm. All agree that PCBs concentrate in fish skin and fat, so avoiding those lowers one’s exposure.
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When I read your columns in the Guardian, I roll my eyes at all the people complaining about "exotic" ingredients and the time to prep because I understand that it is special-occasion food, and that it's from a different cultural food tradition. The racists kvetching about ingredients that require people to leave their comfort zone and try something new prove the point of the need for a column devoted to new, difficult, different ingredients that expand one's worldview.
However, cooking and writing about cooking that continually excludes people who are 1) unable to afford more than the basics, 2) strapped for time by legitimate over-work or or other stressful obligations, and (here's the thing) 3) makes fun of people who can't take time to do something "special" is classist in a "let them eat cake" kind of way-- that's problematic. Those complainers in your Guardian comments section do have a point, and I'm afraid this article still comes across with your fingers on the scale for the fancy preparation, with a groaning "oh, fine, since you're complaining so much about it," tone about "having" to come up with something simple.
Cash-strapped, time-strapped people deserve to eat tasty food. Mark Bittman got that. Food doesn't always have to be 1000% authentic or artsy-creative to be worth spending column inches on. Making fun of people who fault you for having difficult or expensive recipes is not helping people expand their worldviews.
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He's joking, not making fun of people! And the whole point of the column is that he's offering two versions -- one for people who want to cook the whole shebang, and one for people who want something quick.
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I too am an Ottolenghi fan and so, yesterday, took the time to make the celeriac “epic” version. I had some doubts since the recipe reminded me a bit of Jannson’s Feast, which I’ve never been able to love, but I followed the recipe scrupulously. The sauce is quite good but the whole is sadly not greater than the sum of its parts.
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Another huge Ottolenghi fan here - happy to see his writing in the NY Times!
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First you should be sure to start with wild salmon....
There's a third way, which is even better: let the salmon live their own lives.
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Great concept - I look forward to future columns.
For a start, my favorite salmon is smoked, to be consumed on buttered crusty baguette or pumpernickel bread.
With all due and sincere respect to Mr. Ottolenghi's inventive spirit, I agree neither with his sister nor with him. Simplification of great recipes is a grave transgression of gastronomic code: if you have neither the time, nor the ability to create the real dish, confine yourself to something else, made of pedestrian ingredients and poor leftovers.
I sense a whiff of leftist radical propaganda of the politically correct in all the exertions of making simpler and, supposedly, healthier foods. Above all, remember that Nature or God made the humans panfagous or omnivores, who also developed love of alcoholic beverages and tobacco smoke.
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Your “everyday” recipe calls for currants? While these are easy to obtain in the UK they are not common at all in the US. Why didn’t an editor push back on featuring a difficult to find ingredient in a recipe specifically designed to be accessible?
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Not to be that person, but I have never had a problem finding currants in my regular market. Sun Maid (of raisin fame) sells them. They're right by the raisins and dried cranberries and all the other dried fruits.
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@ Susan New Jersey
Currants are not really needed. A good substitute is cranberries in different forms, and their near-equivalents: canned Swedish Lingonberries, German Preiselbeeren or Russian Brusnika.
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Also calls for saffron. You know, that everyday ingredient that we can all afford and just awaits us in our cupboards.
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May I suggest to do what the French are so famous for? Sauces.
Once I mastered sauces nearly anything was made better. Oh...an mustard. Maille.....Only Maille.
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I don't like this article, and i do not know exactly why.
I have been discovering the ways of cooking salmon for over the 30 years of my grown up attmepts.
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Easiest way to cook salmon: Put a large cast iron skillet in the oven and turn it on 500 degrees. Squeeze some lemon juice on the salmon and a nice sprinkling of Old Bay. When the oven gets to 500, give it a few more minutes to get the skillet nice and hot. Open the oven door, spray some Pam or other oil on the skillet and put the salmon in the pan meat side down. Close the oven. Give it about 5 minutes. Then open up and turn the salmon over. Give it another 4 or 5 minutes. Done! The outside is seared and the inside is still nice and moist. Haven't done it any other way in 20 years.
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Wouldn't recommend spraying oil into a skillet in a 500 degree oven. Much too dangerous.
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Never been an issue. Remember that various oils have different flash points.
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Can't wait to try the Gratin! Love your recipes . . . always a slightly interesting twist, like the soaked saffron, or currants. And your presentation of the gratin recipe is very manageable, though I will save for a special dinner!
A bit too thin layer of Dijon mustard is all salmon needs before either baking or broiling. It’s a match made in heaven.
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Ah, yes, even better if you mix in a little honey and soy sauce
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Meant to say Not too thin
What a great idea, two versions of the same/similar recipe. Bravo! Can't wait together with my wife and try both of them!
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very useful and interesting column-- I have fresh rosemary which can also be hung and dried in the kitchen very nice on salmon. salmon benefits eye health.
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Love that you are doing this column. As a member of the cooking-challenged set, I really really appreciate this. Thank you!
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The rayfin fishes, including salmon, have been shown to be sentient creatures, capable of feeling pain, stress, and fear. Yotam Ottolenghi writes, "Hey, when you get to taste them -- it all makes total sense, right?" Wrong; it makes zero sense to the salmon whose lives are taken from them against their will. Nor does it make much sense to many human beings; only the I-prefer-my-life-unexamined-thank-you crowd who are likely to go along.
All fisheries should be abolished.
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Do you also want to ban bears from snatching them out of the rivers? Also, LOTS is being published about the sentience of plants, so at some point you have to reconcile yourself to the cycle of life and the exchange of protein. No form of life is below or above any other form of life in terms of being “OK” to eat. It’s a ridiculous premise.
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Not to be trite, but someone/something is going to eat the salmon! Just sayin'.
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You give up killing your plants and then I will think about not eating salmon..
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I’m lucky to live where I can fish for salmon throughout the year—and have plenty of filets vacuum-packed in my freezer as I write. We eat salmon at least twice weekly, and my simplest go-to meal when I just don’t time to be creative is to coat the filet (frozen or thawed) with olive oil, sprinkle with onion powder, top with something simple like maple syrup or a teriyaki glaze, and a pinch of crushed nuts or sesame seeds. Bake in a HOT oven (400 deg F), about 12-15 for thawed, 15-20 for frozen, depending on thickness. Center should be almost translucent and should flake easily. I serve this with plain white rice, and sautéed or roasted asparagus, ready in less than an hour, and it’s scrumptious!
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I'm a huge fan of Ottolenghi & Tamimi, so his appearance in the NYT is exciting! His recipes are always delicious and reliable. I'm looking forward to this series.
For the inevitable complaints about exotic/extensive ingredients, expand your pantry and your mind. He is never rigid about ingredients, so chill out and enjoy!
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ha ha, do you by chance follow his column in the Guardian?
I'm with you 100% on the deliciousness and reliability of his and Sami Tamimi's recipes. Hooray that they're in the NY Times!
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The gratin dish looks absolutely luscious. Now I just need enough people to eat it.
Quickest go-to way to cook salmon: coat filets in thin layer of good-quality mayonnaise, dust with pepper, and broil.
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I do that, and when in a rush, or just cooking for myself, coat fillet with mayo, garlic salt, & microwave at 1/2 power for 2 minutes, or even on reheat, but watch to not overcook. I have a small microwave spatter lit that just fits over the fillet, because salmon can be exuberant when in the micro.
Salmon looks so beautiful with its appealing color and these recipes are delicious for those who love this fish. Unfortunately, I am not one of them. I loathe the smell and taste of salmon. My daughter has the same aversion. Maybe we are like the people who either hate cilantro or love it. I want so much to love this fish and these recipes, but alas! Maybe I could substitute a fish I do love like halibut.
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Halibut will work beautifully in both these dishes. have made similar halibut dishes with these flavorings, and they both delicious. Just get the skin off the halibut.
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Pretty much all fish is interchangeable in recipes. Except maybe sardines and anchovies.
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On several occasions when we had guests who didn't care for salmon, I have made Jacques Pepin's oven-roassted salmon with sun-dried tomato mayonnaise as a side dish. Nearly all of the "I don't care for salmon" crowd discovered they actually could (and did) like it, when done right. The recipe can be found at https://www.kqed.org/w/jpfastfood/recipes2p.html.
Cilantro is often an acquired taste, best introduced in small (or very small) amounts, then gradually increased over time. Start with a small amount sprinkled on fish tacos, made with a good white fish filet, homemade chipotle mayonnaise (easy on the adobo sauce or chipotle powder), shredded cabbage and chopped tomato. Squeeze a little lemon or lime juice directly on the filet before topping with the veggies. Serve with a good cold beer, preferably Negro Modelo.
My favorite way to prepare salmon is to put a little bit of dill, onion powder, garlic, pepper, salt, and butter (or olive oil) on a salmon steak and then bake it in the oven for 20 minutes or so. It's easy and delicious. Bon appétit!
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Among the many delicious recipes of Salmon are also the health benefits and reduction of inflammation! Gr8 for asthma patients among others!
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thank you for beginning a column like this. I'm a good cook who enjoys excellent food, but as I've gotten older, the desire to cook something elaborate for only one or two people, depending on the evening, has begun to pall. It will be fun to try out things that are delicious yet simpler to prepare.
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This is a great idea - two versions of a recipe. Thank you!
I enjoy cooking, especially when I have the time. However, I can relate to your sister when I'm short on time and would like to prepare a simple meal without needing to shop for an ingredient that you'll seldom use (except for 'a pinch' in one recipe).
I'm sure I'm not the only one who has seen tempting recipes only to be turned off when they require an ingredient I never have on hand, or one I've never even heard of. Yes, I've had to look up numerous ingredients - can we say French Green Beans instead of Haricot Verts, please?)
I look forward to more articles like this - and to trying both versions of each recipe!
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But...they are Haricot Verts. In English, we use many words from other languages and retain their pronunciation. Crème brûllée anyone?
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