Wines That Resound in Memory

Dec 07, 2017 · 65 comments
John Dunlap (San Francsico)
I've not tasted any of these wines mentioned, but I do go out of my way to try a Charbono - when you can find one. Likewise, I also will drink an ocasional CA Barbera - when offered. Sadly, both are obscure, but enjoyable when a big wine is called for and as of way paying homage to the the State's winemaking past.
Marta Sommer (Germany)
The wine is very stylised drinks and One of the greatest happiness in the world.
Bob Brown (Ventura County, Calif.)
most memorable white -- Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett 2015 m m red - Ridge Estate Merlot 2009 with thanks for all who have contributed to disaster relief in California -- and anywhere in the world
Bob (Pennsylvania)
I must say that the writer can surely "sling it" with the very best! Incidentally, why would one want a taste, hint, or soupcon of tobacco or herbs in one's beverage? Why not add burnt cork and old truffles to the mix? Yeccch!
Readymade (Blue Point, NY)
Its okay to proudly flout your ignorance of wine Bob, many people get intimidated and flustered at the tasting descriptions used for wine. Keep chugging down that Mountain Dew, its redolent of sidewalk and Easy Off with minor notes of lawn mower bag. Buy it in glass bottles so people will know you're a discriminating connoisseur ;)
ws (köln)
It´s a column about "Wines That Resound in Memory" - and it´s a comment section about "Affordable Wines That Offer a Convincing Price-Benefit Ratio". As it used to be. Yes, USA is not Europe and conditions are different. But when it comes to this aspect there is no difference. The only the differenc is Americans raise this issue all the time while Europeans don´t care so much. We are able to avoid exaggerated prices by an reasonable offer of excellent "economy wines" here and let the big labeled bottles go to label drinkers in overseas. This seems not to be possible in USA but Americans seem to want to do the same in their home country. Alright. So it´s clear: Americans crave for the same thing like Europeans but have a fundamental overiding issue with general price level in their domestic wine market. No doubt about it. You can write about wine what you want to - the next fith comment will be an "I bought a perfect wine per 9 $ a bottle" item anyway.
Donald Ambrose (Florida)
I have had 2 wine cellars over time at different houses that owned. The best wine I have ever had was a JOSEPH PHELLPS INSIGNIA 1992. It was $36 a bottle. I had one and came back and bought a sleeve of 6 and the remaining 3 bottles they had in inventory. Taste aside( this was in ? 94) the wine poured like a thick liquid. It was heavenly and wonderful, such richness. The guy at the store offered it since I would normally some in and buy several cases at a time . My "cellar" had about 400 bottles at the time. Party wine was under$10.00 , dinner wine under $20.00 and cellar wine to be held for year, generally over $30.00. I miss those days.
Jim Lockard (Lyon, France)
Thanks for a great column. I am on my fourth "Bruno" book, inspired by your earlier column. I am especially enjoying it since my wife and I move to Lyon, France this year. Centered between Burgundy to the North, the Rhone Valley to the south, Beaujolais to the west, and Jura to the east, I am in wine heaven. We are visiting the US for the holidays and I brought back several bottles of Macconais Chardonnay and a white Beaujolais to share with family and friends. Hopefully, it will create some great memories for them. JimLockardOnWine.com
Bob R (<br/>)
I remember visiting Chateau de Tiregand about 25 years ago. I didn't know anything about the winery, but we were spending a week in the area and decided to stop in. The wines were very enjoyable, and I believe we brought a bottle or 2 home.
James T ONeill (Hillsboro)
About as pretentious as any review of anything i have ever read--name dropping par excellence along with no pricing--for the hedge funders or the world
Jack Everitt (Santa Rosa, CA)
You are way wrong. I can guess the prices of these wines and only 8 and 9 are very expensive, and half or so are inexpensive. 10's price is less than 8 and 9. I'm also ready to defeat you on the Wine's Price is Right.
Prosper Bellizia (ASBURY PARK, NJ)
Far from pretentious. Why the negativity? Pretend you enjoy wine and indulge those of us who do.
David Grant (Hinsdale, MA)
Fully agree that "best" holds little meaning w/ respect to wine. Prices, however, do. Would be more convenient if they were included (even more polite).
John R (CT)
The article wasn’t really about prices, it’s about how you remember wine. Go to Wine-Searcher.com you can find the prices there if you really need to know them. Most listed in the article are outrageously expensive.
jeff s (edmonton)
pictures of the bottles would also have been helpful.
John R (CT)
Best wines I had this year: 1. Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Columbia Valley): Had this at Thanksgiving, exceptional despite its youth. 2. Calera Ryan Pinot Noir 2012 (Mt. Harlan): Exceptional Pinot Noir from Calera. I hope they don't lose any of their magic now that Duckhorn has bought them. 3. Intrinsic Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Columbia Valley): Rich and jammy Cabernet from Columbia Valley, exceptional value for the price. 4. Boedecker Cellars Stewart Pinot Noir 2011 (Willamette Valley): Had this at a tasting at my local wine shop and was immediately impressed by its depth of aromas and flavor. Bought 3 bottles. 5. Marietta Gibson Block Syrah 2014 (McDowell Valley): Had this at a tasting at another local wine shop, excellent estate Syrah and a good value for the quality. Shared the bottle I bought among friends a couple months later. 6. Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 (Napa Valley): This bottle of Napa Cab aged extremely well, despite having difficulty removing the old cork! 7. Dreisigacker Riesling Trocken 2014 (Rheinhessen, DE): Excellent German Riesling from Rheinhessen. 8. Piedrasassi PS Syrah 2014 (Santa Barbra County): Very bold Syrah with a rich earthiness never tasted anything like it before. 9. Soter Brut Rose Mineral Springs Ranch 2011 (Willamette Valley): Bought this for a celebration. Best American sparkling wine I ever tasted. 10. Mailly L'Intempirelle 2009 Champagne Grand Cru
TimothyCotter (Buffalo, N.Y.)
Well, prices? If Eric doesn't, will you?
John R (CT)
Sure! 2014 Quilceda Creek $250 | 2014 Calera Ryan Pinot $53 | 2014 Intrinsic Cabernet Sauvignon $20 | 2011 Boedecker Cellars Stewart $15 | 2014 Marietta Gibson Block Syrah $37 | 1997 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon - unsure of price | 2014 Dresigacker Trocken Riesling $19 | 2014 Piedrasassi PS Syrah $25 | 2011 Soter Brut Rose Mineral Springs $70 | 2009 Mailly L’ Intemporele $100
Organic Vegetable Farmer (Hollister, CA)
As a farmer of vegetables and lover of food, I think the point of the article is to enjoy wine as part of the experience of life. Even something as "mundane" as the humble Radish tastes different grown at different part of the year and in different places and by different growing practices. There are specific varieties that I love for saute more than stir-fry or raw and crunchy and vice-versa. Speaking to wines, as a Californian who learned to enjoy wine as a child from the vineyards of our state, I first love a BIG California Zinfandel like the three cases of the 1984 Pesenti dry farmed late harvest I drank. But also the delicate but sweet German high quality Reislings are amazing. The least pretentious California wine grape might be French Columbard, but I remember having a delightful glass of a well made wine that was a perfect salad companion on a summer day. And a wine from the 1980s I still remember fondly was the Christian Brothers cold pressed Chenin Blanc - excellent with pasta and white fish and a discussion about history. Enjoy life, eat well (both in terms of foods produced that way and imagined), exercise enough for you and for heavens sake make connections with wonderful people and places!
Elias Guerrero (New York)
Thank you!
Copy Desk (<br/>)
What happened to Rebecca Marshall's photo credit for the Pécharmant pic? And was the vintage on that top bottle Photoshopped out, or Liquid-Papered out IRL? And in either case: why?
Jay David (NM)
The wine that resounds in my memory is the last wine I drank. I just drank my daily glass of wine a half hour ago. It was Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé from South Africa. I'll definitely buy it again.
Bob Z (Phila)
Liked your comment as I am a fan of the Mulderbisch Rose. A more reasonably priced and delightful wine would be hard to find.
Tokyo Tony (<br/>)
Mr Asimov reminds us of the old proverb: Good company will do more for bad wine than good wine will do for bad company.
Why Not Ask Why? (Highland NY)
I appreciate reading about less common wine styles and Mr. Asimov offers many to explore in this article, across a wide range of prices. Unfortunately for the pricey wines, the average wine enthusiast could likely not afford to taste. The 1999 Grand Cru Dujac Clos de la Roche is a prime example. While I'm sure it's a heavenly Burgundy; can NY Times readers afford a bottle that costs between $640 and $1,600? I aspire one day to buy an amazing vintage Burgundy but for now, I'll look for and expect to enjoy the $27 2013 Napa Charbono from the Calder Wine Company.
Jack Everitt (Santa Rosa, CA)
Mr. Asimov was not telling you or Times readers to seek out these wines, which would be very difficult. He was simply listing ten memorable wines from the past year and what made them so - to him.
MG (PDX)
That wine bar in Beaune wouldn't happen to be Caves Madeleine? Great list of affordable and little known Burgundies--along with comfort cooking and warm service--
Jim R. (California)
10 memorable wines, and 1 from California. Either Mr. Asimov needs to get out more, or he needs to check some preconceived notions and biases at the door.
an opinion (new york, ny)
I find it inexplicable that the author makes no mention of price. Does he not think that this is important to the reader?
John R (CT)
It's really not that important, it's literally the easiest thing to look up in the world. Also, based on what he wrote, he probably did not pay for most of them.
Bob R (<br/>)
I'd say probably all of them. But you're right about the price issue.
Reader (Brooklyn)
Wine, the most pretentious of drinks. If it didn’t have any alcohol no one would care.
John Edelmann (Arlington, VA)
You are missing out on one of the great joys of the world.
Esposito (Rome)
Reader, it's only pretentious if you think you can understand the entire universe of wine. Pick a galaxy or two and explore intelligently and you will understand the magic and the excellence of wine as a drink. Oh, and don't forget to eat when you drink wine. That's probably your mistake. It's not like beer.
Mike Carpenter (Tucson, AZ)
At 8-10%, the best German wines come close to no alcohol.
Tim C (Seattle)
How about ten reds under $15 to try? I can't afford $750 wine.
Mike Carpenter (Tucson, AZ)
He did a "wines for Thanksgiving" article, although I'm with you in that his wines are almost always out of my league.
Mike M (Marshall, TX)
Roulot is hard to beat for white Burgundy. I’ve ne er had the aligote, as it’s too hard to find here. But an amazing producer given the vineyards he owns, none the less. Re the Dujac 1999 Clos de la Roche, Dujac killed it 1999, and no where more so than the CdlR. I’ve only had two bottles from my case, the last one two years ago. I think they’re still five years from being fully ready. But they WILL be glorious.
Julie Gussman (<br/>)
So is it possible to buy Pecharmant in the US? I'd love to taste it but the price of a trip to Bergerac makes the bottle very dear.
John Edelmann (Arlington, VA)
Google it. I found one place that has a 2012 and it is $20
David Henry (Concord)
If this article/advertisement isn't satire, it should be. Sales will increase because this guy likes the taste of something? "Wines like this are inspiring, giving birth to ideas and relationships..." Could pomposity be any more alarming? The pour is down the drain........
SEG (<br/>)
Could sarcasm be any more dripping? I found the recounting of a few very personal experiences to be inspiring. Pity you couldn't enjoy it for what it was.
Prosper Bellizia (ASBURY PARK, NJ)
The NY Post has a wine column that might better fit your taste.
Elias Guerrero (New York)
Ouch!
Anne A'Herran (Australia)
You go to Italy. Why not travel also to the Barossa? Or the Clare Valley, or the southern vales? Or anywhere, South Australia, Australia? I drank your best wine, it made me ill. DEsperately ill. Homesick..
Dan Kravitz (Harpswell, ME)
I appreciate this column. While it may be impossible for most Americans to taste most of the wines listed, due to lack of availability here, vintages no longer available and of course price, I hope it will inspire readers to try new things and to find their own memories. Dan Kravitz
Bob R (<br/>)
As usual, words of wisdom, as well as reason, from a great wine importer. Now, Dan, if you could only get Tiregand into Maine!
Elias Guerrero (New York)
Yes, find and create your own memories. Exactly.
Matt (Saratoga)
Memorable wine is certainly better then the "best" wine. My father, who came from what I will describe as a NYC Irish working class background, knew little of wine growing up or into his adulthood except to occasionally have some jug burgundy to accompany the food that my Italian mother made or for Thanksgiving. At some point in time, he decided to try better wines and began to experiment and bring them home. Though still in my teens I became his assistant in this venture. Around this time some of the California growers who had previously been making low end wines began to produce better wines so it was easy for us to follow them through the years as they improved their products and we improved our knowledge of wine. Some of my best memories of my father are those where I drove him to the store, he didn't drive, and collaborated with him as we selected wines to bring home for Thanksgiving or Christmas and then enjoying them with my family. . einfg we selected ise I have some the best memories of my father while That journey reminas some Hat
greg kaufmann (DC)
prices would be helpful for those of us on a budget and with limited discretionary time available to look all of these up.
David Henry (Concord)
The prices would make you wince: don't bother.
SEG (<br/>)
He isn't recommending these wines; he is recommending a way of thinking about wine.
David Henry (Concord)
There are countless wines and varieties, but subjectivity exceeds all of them, as this column demonstrates. Cheers!
Kent Goodwin (Vermont)
How marvelous that the Calder Wine Company can manage the extraordinary feat of bottling a taste that manages to ". . . capture past and future, sadness and sweet hope." Quite the polymath, this grape. I have read poetry and literature that endeavors so, music, too. But never a grape. I'll take a few cases.
jrsherrard (seattle)
I've traveled many times to the SW of France and paid several visits to the Chateau de Tiregand to sample the remarkable Pecharmant made there. Sadly, this wine, a staple of Perigord and the Dordogne, can scarcely be found in the States. Which is why I try to bring home a case whenever I manage to make the trip because I know it cannot be found outside of France (although there is a single distributor in Chicago who has a limited supply). I'd also suggest a rounding off any rich southwestern meal with a delicious Monbazillac (a worthy and much less expensive rival to a lovely sauterne) to accompany dessert.
Incontinental (Earth)
I had forgotten that I'd been to Pecharmant before. Reading your column triggers many fond memories of my own wine tourism in France, Italy and Germany (but mainly France). The best wine is always the local wine, and it only tastes best right there where it comes from. Possibly it's a predisposition on my part, in combination with the good spirits of being there, but I know that if I go to my local wine store and buy something with a similar pedigree, it never tastes as good as I remember. Maybe it's just a question of what travelling does to the wine. If you would be so kind as to send me the application form for your job, please.
richard (denver)
Why shouldn't wine taste like the grape it was made from?
Agnostique (Europe)
Wine isn't like coca-cola or Mc Donalds where your pinot noir will taste the same no matter where it's "made" the world over
robert ames (walla walla)
the grape can be secondary to the flavours of the vineyard that i comes from, but yes, it still contributes. a number of years ago jean michel deiss at marcel deiss in bergheim went to bottling his grand crus as well as his "premier crus" (not an official classification in alsace) as field blends of of the various grape varieties found in said vineyards. leading up to this was his observation that the similarities of flavours imparted from a given vineyard were more dominant than the varietal flavours of the individual grape varieties. for instance, a gewurztraminer from say englegarten tasted more like englegarten than it did like gewurztraminer. drink a lovely premier cru chablis with a few years on it along with a premier cru from say meursault of similar age. the bouquet and flavours of the vineyard will be hugely dominant compared to the flavours of the chardonnay grape.
Jay Russo (NYC)
Dear Eric, that’s a good year! What a charmed life you have. Congratulations!
Mitchell (Haddon Heights, NJ)
A wine memory. About 40 years ago, I had the opportunity to drink one glass of Grand Vin de Chateau Latour (if memory serves me correctly, it was a 1966). To this day, I can still remember how amazing it was and wishing I could have more. Way out of my price range these days, unfortunately.
Barry Stein MD (Albany NY)
This line really made me think: "When a wine no longer tastes like a grape and tastes like a place instead, that is memorable." As a long term wine collector, I have preferred a wine that at least can be recognized as to what grape it came from, rather than having been over processed. Terroir yes. But still maintaining the character of that grape as well.
robert ames (walla walla)
wrong. the last thing that made that wine more of the place than of the grape was its being processed. there are terroirs that are so emphatic in their influence on the wine that they really do overshadow the influence of the grape.
Tony McLean (Toronto CANADA)
This issue of a wine tasting like a specific grape really pertains to varietals. I would put forward that the same grape grown at different terroirs taste remarkably different and certainly SOME part of its taste profile is based on the variety. What are we to do if the wine is a mixture of different grape varieties? A while back a group of winemakers out of California got together to coin the term "Meritage" to get around the ATF's restrictive labeling of wines made with predominately one grape variety. Their rules stated that a Meritage could only have two of more of certain varieties. A Red Meritage is a blend of two or more of the red "noble" Bordeaux varieties - Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, St. Macaire, Gros Verdot and Carmenère. Sometimes the sum of the parts are transformed into something astounding. Just my $0.02 worth
Emiglio Romagna (Brooklyn)
Can we all just laugh - as the comment or does - at the idea of ‘noble’ anything ? How Old World, how radically out of touch...